Touring Europe by Rail...Touring Europe by Rail R ich, ancient, and incredibly diverse, the nations of Europe offer a vast array of sights, climates, cultures, and cuisines. The 10

Touring Europe by Rail

Rich, ancient, and incredibly diverse, the nations of Europe offer a vast array ofsights, climates, cultures, and cuisines. The 10 trips outlined below show the full reachof the European rail system; feel free to mix and match parts of them to create yourideal vacation.

Where possible, we’ve used overnight trains on these trips, as they save you the costof a hotel night, maximize your sightseeing time, and are a rail experience in and ofthemselves. Remember that overnight trains, many high-speed lines, the Eurostar trains,French TGV trains, and Eurostar Italia require extra reservation fees over the price ofyour railpass. (See p. 38 for more on overnight trains.) Also note that advance reserva-tions on high-speed rail lines and night trains are becoming more essential every day. Ifyour itinerary depends on making specific connections or catching trains that run onspecific schedules, reserve your seat or sleeping car as soon as possible (see “The Price ofRail Travel,” in chapter 2, for more information on making train reservations).

We’ve recommended railpasses for those itineraries below that would make gooduse of them; where point-to-point tickets are cheaper, we’ve noted that as well. (Foran overview of when to buy a pass and when to go point to point, see p. 44.)

Exact train times and prices are subject to change—the details in these pages wereaccurate as of August 2007, but you should double-check all train schedules whenplotting out your journey. For more on navigating rail schedules, see p. 31.

1 1-Week ItinerariesThe average North American vacation is a mere 7 days long (we know, too short!). Tohelp you make the best of your time in Europe, we’ve put together six 1-week rail itin-eraries that will give you a taste of some of the best Europe has to offer. Whether you’rea royalty fanatic who can’t get enough of the Continent’s magnificent palaces or anature buff who’d rather tackle the magnificent scenery of Scandinavia, you’ll find anitinerary below that will suit your needs. And if you happen to have more than a weekto spend (lucky you!), you can mix and match these itineraries or check out the 2-week itineraries we offer in the next section.

I T I N E R A R Y 1 E U R O P E ’ S B E S T C A S T L E S & P A L A C E S

Duration: 8 days, 7 nights

Best time of year: Spring or fall

Recommended passes: Second-class Eurail France–Germany 4-day railpass, plus Eurostar ticket

Arrive in: London

Depart from: Munich

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Europe is practically overflowing with medieval castles and ornate palaces. And manyof these world-famous residences (and former residences) are open to exploration bythose of us whose blood isn’t royal blue. Touring all these bastions of nobility couldtake years, but we’ve put together an itinerary that will introduce you to a few of themost noteworthy castles and palaces on the Continent and in London.

C H A P T E R 1 . T O U R I N G E U R O P E B Y R A I L2

Day 1Arrive in London (you’ll need to take thered-eye, so catch some z’s on the flight).After checking into your hotel, head for atour of Buckingham Palace in the morn-ing, if it’s open (only in summer); other-wise, take in the adjacent Royal Mewsand the magnificent Queen’s Gallery,both of which are open year-round andfeature lots of fabulous royal treasures.Spend the afternoon exploring the Towerof London, an imposing castle complexbuilt by William the Conqueror andhome to Britain’s fabulous crown jewels.If you have time, indulge in a traditionalafternoon tea, or try a night out at thetheater. See “London” in chapter 10 formore sightseeing options in this historiccity.

Day 2Fortify yourself with a good Englishbreakfast before taking the Eurostar trainon a jaunt (trip time: 2 hr., 15 min.) toParis. If you’ve got time once you’ve set-tled into your hotel, visit the Louvre,which would be the largest palace in theworld, if it were still a palace and not oneof the world’s greatest art museums. Payhomage to the Mona Lisa, the Venus deMilo, and 300,000 or so of their fellowartworks. It’s a royal treat, palace or not.See “Paris” in chapter 8 for other thingsto do in the city.

Day 3Get an early morning start and take theRER C-line commuter train (show yourrailpass at the ticket booth and get yourfree ticket—the pass itself isn’t enough)out to Versailles (p. 281) and spend ahalf-day touring Louis XIV’s masterpiece,

a structure so magnificent that building itpractically bankrupted the state treasury.Return to Paris in the afternoon for astroll or some other sightseeing beforetaking an evening TGV high-speed trainfor the 1-hour ride to Tours, in the Loirevalley. Check into your hotel (see “Tours”in chapter 8 for accommodationsoptions) and rest up.

Day 4If ever there were a spot for castle lovers,it’s the Loire valley. Unfortunately, it’s notthe most train-friendly locale in France, sothe best way to see the region’s famous cas-tles is to get up early and take a full-daybus tour of the Loire châteaux. Tours leaveat 9am daily from the city’s tourist officeand, alas, Tours sightseeing tours aren’tcovered by railpasses. Should you wish toexplore on your own, a few châteaux arereachable from Tours by rail. Try theGothic and Renaissance Château Royald’Amboise or the historic Château Royalde Blois. Stay in Tours a second night. See“Tours” in chapter 8 for more châteauxexcursions out of Tours.

Day 5More châteaux! Take a 25-minute trainride to Chenonceaux (p. 295), noted forits startling river-spanning castle. Returnto Tours and take the 7:13pm train to St-Pier-Des-Cours, then hop immediatelyon the TGV to Gare Montparnasse inParis, arriving at 8:25pm, to connect tothe 10:45pm overnight train from ParisEst station to Munich, which arrives at8:59am. (Note: You’ll have to get fromMontparnasse to Paris Est station byMetro or taxi, but you’ve got plenty oftime to make the connection.)

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I T I N E R A RY 1 : E U R O P E ’ S B E S T C A S T L E S & PA L A C E S 3

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Itinerary 1: Europe’s Best Castles & Palaces

Day 6Check into your hotel upon arriving inMunich, then head off to the Nymphen-burg Palace (p. 364), Germany’s largestbaroque palace. If the weather’s good, besure to stroll the surrounding Nymphen-burg Park. At night you can raise a steinor two inside of the city’s famous beerhalls. For other nightlife options, checkout “Munich” in chapter 9.

Day 7You’ve got a busy day. From the MunichHauptbahnhof, take an early morningtrain to Füssen (trip time: 2 hr.). Take oneof the hourly buses to Neuschwanstein

(p. 371), Mad King Ludwig’s fairy-talefolly. (This was the model for Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle and the realthing is a heck of a lot better!) Next up isnearby Hohenschwangau (p. 371) and itsfamous murals. Tour that castle (waitingin line to get in should eat up the rest ofyour day) and then return to Munich forthe evening.

Day 8If you have an afternoon flight, you cantour the downtown Residenz Palacebefore heading off to the airport. Other-wise your castle hopping will come to anend as you fly home from Munich.

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I T I N E R A R Y 2 S M A L L C I T I E S O F T H E B E N E L U X


Best time of year: Summer

Ideal passes: Point-to-point tickets or Eurail Benelux Pass (more convenient, though moreexpensive)

Arrive in: Amsterdam Schiphol

Depart from: See below

Relaxing, romantic small cities can be an antidote to the typical European big-citybustle. Tack part of this itinerary onto a Paris or Amsterdam trip for a change of pace,or do the whole thing for a truly intimate week. All the Dutch and Belgian destina-tions in this itinerary are within a few hours of Amsterdam or Brussels, and you won’thave to worry about catching a train at a specific time within Holland because alltrains run on at least an hourly basis.


Day 1Arrive at Amsterdam Schiphol airport, andtake a train from the station beneath theairport terminal directly to The Hague,just 50 minutes away. Check into yourhotel for a 3-night stay. Once you’re settledin, head for Madurodam, a fascinatingscale-model replica of dozens of Dutchlandmarks and attractions. After you’vehad your fill of miniatures, and if you stillhave time, take tram 1 all the way up to thebeach resort of Scheveningen to see howthe Dutch spend sunny days. See p. 642for more information on The Hague.

Day 2Take local tram 1—not the train—fromThe Hague to Delft and spend the day inthat charming city, strolling its atmos-pheric canals, touring its two churches,and visiting its renowned StedelijkMuseum Het Prinsenhof (p. 647). Headback in the evening to The Hague andrelax.

Day 3In the morning, grab a train to Haarlem,a compact town just 35 minutes awaythat’s ideal for strolling. Start first at itsimpressive Grote Markt (market square)and catch a recital on the 98-foot-tall(29m) organ inside the Church of St.

Bavo. Finally, take in the city’s finestattraction, the Frans Hals Museum,which sports both great art and a charm-ing 17th-century setting. For more infor-mation on Haarlem, see p. 641. In theafternoon, head back to The Hague andtour the Mauritshuis, whose must-see artcollection includes the quintessentialBenelux city landscape—Vermeer’s Viewof Delft—as well as Vermeer’s famous Girlwith a Pearl Earring.

Day 4It’s time to leave The Hague behind. Takea morning InterCity train to Antwerp’sCentraal Station (trip time: 1 hr., 30min.), store your luggage there, and thenlose yourself on the streets of Antwerp, ahidden gem that’s the capital of Europe’sdiamond trade. Don’t miss the largestchurch in the Benelux, the Cathedral ofOur Lady, situated right off the city’smedieval and picturesque Grote Markt.For a touch of culture, visit the impressiveRubens House, where artist Peter PaulRubens once lived and worked. For moreon Antwerp, see p. 145. In the evening,head back to the rail station and catch atrain (trip time 1 hr., 50 min.) to the cityof Liège in the heart of Belgium’s Wallo-nia province. Check into your hotel andgive yourself a well-earned rest.

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Groningen Groningen Leeuwarden Leeuwarden

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DinantDinant

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Itinerary 2: Small Cities of the Benelux

Day 5Spend your day exploring the “PassionateCity” of Liège. Don’t miss the Museum ofWalloon Life (p. 156), especially its fabu-lous puppet collection. The RomanesqueChurch of St. Bartholomew has a 12th-century baptismal font that’s regarded asone of the greatest treasures in Belgium.For more options in Liège, see p. 154.

Day 6Eat an early breakfast before catching atrain to your final base in the Benelux—the World Heritage city of Bruges. Thetrip will take about 2 hours. Once you’vesettled into your hotel, wind your waythrough the medieval streets of Bruges,making sure to visit the city’s famous

Belfry and Market Halls, the Begijn-hof, and the Church of Our Lady withits sculpture by Michelangelo. See p. 147for more on the city.

Day 7If you can draw yourself away fromBruges for the day, get on a train for the23-minute ride to Ghent, anotherbreathtaking medieval city. Make sure tosee its St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the Belfry,and the grim Castle of the Counts, andthen stroll along Graslei. Return toBruges before dinner and spend the restof the evening soaking up the city’smedieval atmosphere. For more onGhent, see p. 142.

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Day 8Bruges is close to several international air-ports: Brussels is about 11⁄2 hours away,Amsterdam Schiphol is just under 31⁄2

hours, and Charles de Gaulle in Paris isabout 3 hours. Fly home from whicheverairport works best for you.


I T I N E R A R Y 3 R I D I N G T H E S C E N I C R O U T E


Best time of year: Spring; arrive on a Sunday or Monday, so you can ride the Semmering Passweekend train

Ideal passes: Second-class point-to-point tickets (cheapest) or first-class 6-day, three-country Eurail Select Pass (most comfortable and flexible, and only a littlemore expensive)

Arrive in: Milan

Depart from: Vienna

There’s some intense rail riding on this weeklong trip, but you’ll be rewarded with anumber of the world’s most thrilling and dramatic rail journeys as you travel acrossthe Alps. Two noteworthy trains you’ll be riding are the magnificent Centovalli Rail-way traversing Italy and Switzerland, and the only railway deemed worthy ofUNESCO’s World Heritage Site designation, the Semmering Pass Railway in Austria.

Before leaving home: Call to make reservationsto see Leonardo’s Last Supper in Milan.

Day 1Arrive in Milan in the morning. Afterchecking into your hotel, see theDuomo, and then head for the Last Sup-per if you nabbed a reservation. Spend theafternoon in the Brera Picture Galleryand checking out the shops and antiquesstores on the side streets off of Via Brera,which are open until 7:30pm on mostevenings. See p. 606 for more informa-tion on the city.

Day 2Today you head off on one of the bestrailroad journeys in Europe: a ride on theCentovalli Railway. Grab the 9:25amInterCity train to Bellinzona, arriving at11:21am. Connect there to a noon trainto Locarno, arriving at 12:19pm, andthen get on the Centovalli Railway toDomodossola, one of the lesser-knownscenic treasures of the Alps. The hourlyfrequency of the Centovalli line meansyou can get off at any of the charming vil-lages it serves (we recommend Verdasio or

Intragna for their cable cars) and get backon again. There are local and expressCentovalli trains, so take a local (leavingat 12:42pm) if you want to stop and anexpress (leaving at 2:12pm) if you want toshoot straight through. If you take thelocal, make sure to get back on the trainto arrive in Domodossola no later than7pm, so you can catch the 7:42pmCisalpino (reservations required) to Brig,and from there, connect to Bern. If youtake the express train straight through,you’ll arrive in Domodossola at 3:55pm;from there, hop the 4:10pm train toBern, where you’ll arrive around 6:30pmand can check into your hotel for a well-earned rest.

This all sounds very complicated, butthe views offered by the Centovalli trainsare exceptional, and these are commonand frequent connections. The conduc-tors on any of the trains we mentionabove will tell you where to go if you ask.And if you miss a train, there will usuallybe another one along in an hour or so.

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Itinerary 3: Riding the Scenic Route

Day 3Bern is lovely, but the best railway sceneryis in nearby Interlaken. In the morning,make the 54-minute journey to the Inter-laken Ost train station and you’ll get aview of the mountains in the distance, the 13,000-foot (3,900m) peaks of theJungfrau (p. 824). An intricate networkof railways climbs these mountains, andyou can ride one or two of them todayout of the Interlaken station; a railpassdoesn’t cover these trains, but passholdersdo get a 25% discount. Rail Europe alsosells Jungfrau tickets. Once you’ve hadyour fill of the magnificent scenery, headback to Bern and have dinner in one ofthe city’s wine taverns. See p. 830 formore Bern nightlife options.

Day 4Say goodbye to Bern, grab your luggage,and head back to Interlaken Ost. Thefamous Golden Pass Line (p. 850) headsthrough the mountains outside of Inter-laken along an incredibly scenic route toLuzern (Lucerne). Take the 11:08amGolden Pass Panoramic train (reserva-tions needed) from Interlaken Ost toLuzern (you’ll arrive at 1:04pm), con-necting there to Zurich.

From Zurich, make the 33⁄4-hour tripto Innsbruck, Austria (you will probablyend up on the 5:40pm out of Zurich andwon’t arrive in Austria until after 9pm, soconsider eating on the train, or wait to eata late dinner after you check into yourhotel). If you have some energy left (or

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you managed to snag an earlier train outof Zurich), take a tram to the Hunger-burg cable railway (p. 119), which takesyou up a mountain overlooking the cityand offers especially beautiful nighttimeviews of Innsbruck. For more on the city,see p. 115.

Day 5Spend the morning strolling the beauti-fully preserved Altstadt (Old Town) inInnsbruck. After an early lunch, catchthe 1:30pm train to Salzburg, a 2-hourride through spectacular Alpine scenery.Check into your hotel and then strollthrough this picturesque city and see theResidenz State Rooms, where Mozartonce played for royal guests. For moreoptions in Salzburg, see p. 104.

Day 6Take the 9:10am train from Salzburg toVienna. After you arrive at 12:30pm,check into your hotel and eat lunch.Spend the afternoon visiting the Schön-brunn palace, summer seat of the Habs-burg dynasty. For more on this city, see p. 93. Have a piece of the city’s famousdessert, the Sacher torte—you’ve earned it.

Day 7Trying to experience the 150-year-oldSemmering Pass Railway—the only railline on UNESCO’s list of World HeritageSites—on a speedy modern train is a lost

cause. The best way to see it is to take around-trip excursion on an old-fashionedExperience Train out of Vienna, thoughthese depart only on Saturday and Sun-day mornings. For more on this historicrailway, see p. 80. Have dinner in a Vien-nese wine tavern and, if you can, attend aconcert or theater performance. If you’rean opera fan, the Staatsoper (ViennaState Opera) is one of the best in theworld.

Start your day off at St. Stephen’sCathedral in the heart of Vienna. Climbits south tower for a panoramic view ofthe city, and then stroll down Kärntner-strasse, the main shopping street. Stop offat one of the city’s grand cafes at 11am forcoffee. In the afternoon, visit the Schön-brunn palace, summer seat of the Habs-burg dynasty. Have dinner in a Viennesewine tavern and, if you can, attend a con-cert or theater performance. If you’re anopera fan, the Staatsoper (Vienna StateOpera) is one of the best in the world.

Day 8If there’s time in the morning, try and seeSt. Stephen’s Cathedral in the heart ofVienna. Climb its south tower for apanoramic view of the city, and thenstroll down Kärntnerstrasse, the mainshopping street, before flying home outof Vienna.


I T I N E R A R Y 4 E A S T E R N E U R O P E



Ideal passes: Point-to-point tickets

Arrive in: Prague

Depart from: Budapest

Liberated and bustling, but also ancient, Eastern Europe is blooming as a rail desti-nation. And, compared to Western Europe, it’s cheap, too. This weeklong jaunt takesyou to three very different but easily accessible capitals on both sides of the formerIron Curtain: hip Prague, historic Budapest, and cultured Vienna.

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Itinerary 4: Eastern Europe

Day 1Arrive in Prague in the morning. Afterchecking into your hotel, walk the city’sfamous Royal Route, touring PragueCastle before walking across the CharlesBridge into Old Town. From there, headfor Wenceslas Square, site of the demon-strations that led to the Velvet Revolutionin 1989. See p. 169 for more on the city.

Day 2Prague’s greatest strengths are its architec-ture and atmosphere; both are best expe-rienced by strolling and wandering thecity’s streets. So spend your day exploringPrague’s Old Town and Jewish Quarterin more depth. In the Jewish Quarter

(Josefov), be sure to visit the Old JewishCemetery.

Day 3Take an early morning train to beautiful,medieval Cesk; Krumlov, changingtrains in Ceské Budêjovice. Grab the8:16am from Prague, which will get youinto Krumlov around 1:21pm. Spend theday exploring this World Heritage Site(be sure to see the city’s famous castle)and stay overnight. For more informationon this picturesque town, see p. 190.

Day 4It’s another very early start. Hop the8:06am train from Krumlov back to

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Ceské Budêjovice. You’ll have about 21⁄2hours to explore this former fortress townand original home of Budweiser beer. Seep. 194 for sightseeing options in thetown. Make sure you’re back in the sta-tion in time to catch the 12:09pm trainto Linz. You’ll connect there to a train toVienna and should arrive in the Austriancapital around 4:35pm. Check into yourhotel, have dinner (don’t skip dessert inthis city renowned for its pastries!), andperhaps take in a concert. For more onVienna, see p. 84.

Day 5See Day 7 of the “Riding the ScenicRoute” itinerary on p. 6.

Day 6Take the 8:25am train out of Vienna toBudapest. After arriving at 11:18am,check into your hotel and eat lunch.Spend your afternoon exploring theInner City and Central Pest. Walk downVaci útca, the city’s trendiest shopping

street. Then stroll along the Danube tothe neo-Gothic Parliament building.Have a hearty Hungarian dinner and, ifyou’re an opera fan, join the rest ofBudapest at the Hungarian State Opera.See p. 511 for more information on thecity.

Day 7Today, focus on Budapest’s Castle Dis-trict. Be sure to see the 13th-centuryMatthias Church and the Budapest His-tory Museum. On your way back intoPest, stop for coffee and a slice of dobostorta (layer cake) at Auguszt, one of thecity’s classic coffeehouses. Then drop in atSt. Stephen’s Church, the country’slargest, before heading over to the strik-ing Moorish and Byzantine DohánySynagogue, the largest in Europe. Afterdinner, take in one the city’s many musi-cal concerts.

Day 8Fly home from Budapest.


I T I N E R A R Y 5 E X P L O R I N G T H E S C A N D I N A V I A N T R I A N G L E



Ideal passes: Point-to-point tickets or 5-day Eurail Scandinavia Pass

Arrive in: Copenhagen

Depart from: Stockholm

Summer in Scandinavia brings days that stretch forever. Take advantage of all thosesunny hours to explore three of the region’s key cities: Copenhagen, Stockholm, andOslo.

Day 1Arrive in Copenhagen in the morningand check into your hotel. Take a coupleof hours to stroll the old city’s cobble-stone streets and its many canals. Spendthe late afternoon at ChristiansborgPalace. Early in the evening, sample therides and entertainment at the city’sfamous Tivoli. See p. 202 for more sight-seeing options.

Day 2In the morning, visit AmalienborgPalace, see the changing of the guardthere, and then walk to the statue of theLittle Mermaid. In the afternoon, see thetreasures of the Nationalmuseet, and inthe evening, drop in on one of the city’smany jazz clubs.

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Itinerary 5: Exploring the Scandinavian Triangle

Day 3Spend your morning perusing works bythe Old Masters at the Statens Museumfor Kunst, then have an early lunch andleave Copenhagen on the 1:23pm X2000express train to Gothenburg, and switchthere to the 5:50pm train to Oslo. Eatdinner on the train because you won’tarrive in Oslo before 9:45pm. Check intoyour hotel and get some rest.

Day 4After breakfast, stroll past the AkershusCastle and Fortress before catching thebus to the Bygdøy peninsula for the city’srenowned ship museums. In the after-noon, if you have time, take in the

Edvard Munch Museum or head to theTryvannstårnet tower for a panoramicview of Oslo. See p. 646 for more infor-mation.

Day 5Get up early and spend your morningviewing the masterpieces hanging in theNasjonalgalleriet. Then hop the 1:29pmtrain to Karlstad, where you can pick upthe 4:23pm X2000 train to Stockholm,which will put you in the Swedish capitalat 7:35pm. After checking into yourhotel, head to Stockholm’s Gamla Stan(Old Town) and have a late dinner at oneof its restaurants. See p. 778 for informa-tion on Sweden’s capital.

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Day 6Get an early start and take a ferry toDjurgården to visit the Royal WarshipVasa and the Skansen folk museum. Inthe afternoon, head to the Royal Palace& Museums and check out the Swedishcrown jewels, among other royal treasures.Have dinner in Old Town and, if you can,take in a performance in the exceptionalDrottningholm Court Theater.

Day 7Take a morning train to Uppsala—trainsleave every half hour and take 57 min-utes—and spend some of the morningwalking around the university and visiting

its famous Gothic cathedral. After lunch,take the local bus to historic Gamla Upp-sala and explore the archaeologicalremains there. For more sightseeingoptions, see p. 793. Return to Stockholmby train before dinnertime. For dinner, trythe smorgasbord-style buffet at the GrandVerandan.

Day 8If your flight doesn’t leave until the after-noon, spend the morning in the NationalMuseum of Art. Catch the 20-minuteArlanda Express train to the airport andfly home.


I T I N E R A R Y 6 W A R M - W E A T H E R E U R O P E



Ideal passes: Second-class point-to-point tickets (cheapest) or first-class 4-dayFrance–Italy Pass (more comfortable and flexible)

Arrive in: Rome

Depart from: Nice

There’s a mellow Europe, where 3-hour lunches and lounging on the beach is thenorm. It’s also an ancient and beautiful place, with numerous cultural and historicaldiversions to choose from should you need to do something other than work on yourtan. This 1-week trip takes you along the Mediterranean coastline and lets you relaxalong the beaches of two sun-soaked countries. Bring plenty of sunblock!

Day 1Arrive early in Rome and take the train(don’t use your railpass for this inexpen-sive option) into town. Check into yourhotel and spend the afternoon andevening touring the ruins of AncientRome, starting at the Capitoline Hilland walking along the Via dei ForiImperiali to the ruins of the Colosseum.Have dinner near the Piazza Navona,then explore that famous square and seeBernini’s Fountain. See p. 552 for moresightseeing options in the city.

Day 2

Spend today exploring the treasures ofthe Vatican. Take in St. Peter’s Basilicain the morning and the Vatican Muse-ums in the afternoon. Have dinner inTrastevere.

Day 3Take a day-trip to the ancient city ofPompeii, just 21⁄2 hours from Rome bytrain. Trains run via Naples and if youleave Rome at 9:25am and return fromPompeii at 5:06pm, you’ll have time fordinner in Naples before returning toRome.

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Itinerary 6: Warm-Weather Europe

Day 4During the morning, shop and strollaround the Spanish Steps. In the after-noon, take in another museum, such asthe Galleria Borghese, or enjoy people-watching on the Piazza della Rotondanear the Pantheon. Take the 9:16pmovernight train to Nice.

Day 5You’ll arrive in Nice at 9:45am. Checkinto your hotel, and then head off to strollthe promenade des Anglais. Be sure totake in one of the city’s many museums—perhaps the Musée des Beaux-Arts? Forother sightseeing options in the capital ofthe Riviera, see p. 312.

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Day 6Head off to Cannes (a mere 34 min. bytrain) and spend the day ogling beachgo-ers (as Cannes’s rocky beach isn’t verycomfortable), window-shopping on LaCroisette, and pretending to be rich andfamous. Or take a ferry from the port in Cannes to one of the Lérins Islands and sunbathe. See p. 305 for more onCannes. Head back to Nice for dinner,and perhaps see a show or court lady luckin the Cabaret du Casino Ruhl.

Day 7In the morning, catch a train (48 of themrun each day; trip time: 20 min.) to

glamorous Monte Carlo, capital of thetiny principality of Monaco. Spend theday soaking up the chic atmosphere ofthis wealthy playground, but don’t missthe appropriately royal Les GrandsAppartements du Palais and the amaz-ing Musée de l’Océanographie. Eatdinner here before returning to Nice. Formore on Monte Carlo, see p. 317.

Day 8If you have time before your flight, visitanother museum in Nice, or exploring LeChâteau. Then bid adieu to France andfly home out of Aéroport Nice–Côted’Azur.


2 2-Week ItinerariesThough you can do a 1-week rail vacation in Europe if you limit your travels to a smallregion, if you want to cut a wider swath, you’ll need at least 2 weeks to see things with-out feeling rushed. In this section we offer a couple of specialized itineraries for archi-tecture buffs and food lovers, as well as a few “grand tour” suggestions for travelerswho want to sample Europe’s various regions and cities at a reasonable pace.

I T I N E R A R Y 7 E U R O P E ’ S B E S T A R T & A R C H I T E C T U R E


Best time of year: Spring

Ideal passes: First-class 6- or 8-day, four-country Eurail Select Pass (most comfortable;and only a little more expensive than second-class)

Arrive in: Brussels

Depart from: Venice

This trip lets you bury yourself among the masterpieces of European art—it’s amuseum buff ’s dream. You’ll hit four of the world’s greatest museums—the Louvre,the Prado, the Vatican, and the Uffizi—as well as three open-air museums filled withgreat architecture in Bruges, Barcelona, and Venice.

Day 1Arrive at Brussels National Airport, thentake the train into Brussels Midi stationand immediately connect to a train toBruges; the entire train trip should takeabout 11⁄2 hours. In Bruges, tour themedieval streets and enjoy the city’s uniquearchitecture. If you opt for the 6-day pass,then just buy a point-to-point ticket forthis trip. See p. 147 for more on Bruges.

Day 2Take one of the hourly trains that leaveBruges for Brussels, and then catch aThalys trains to Paris. If you time it right,the entire trip should take about 21⁄2hours. Once you’re settled in Paris, startoff at the Arc de Triomphe, then strolldown the Champs-Elysées to the Egypt-ian obelisk at the Place de la Concorde.

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Itinerary 7: Europe’s Best Art & Architecture

Next up is the Eiffel Tower. Around sun-set, head for Notre-Dame Cathedral totop off your Paris monuments tour. See p. 254 for more on the City of Light.

Day 3If you’re a fan of great art, then we don’thave to tell you that the Louvre warrantsan entire day. But if you need a change ofpace in the afternoon, the Centre Pompi-dou will yank you into the 20th century.

Day 4So many riches: The Musée NationalAuguste Rodin? The Musée Picasso?How about the Musée d’Orsay? Choosetwo, and enjoy one in the morning andone in the afternoon. After an early dinner,

head to Paris’s Austerlitz station for the7:43pm overnight train to Madrid’s Char-martín station, arriving at 9:13am. Thistrain, the Francisco de Goya, is an ElipsosTrenhotel (p. 258) and one of Europe’smost luxurious rides.

Day 5Check into your hotel, then start yourday in Madrid at the Royal Palace andwork your way east to the Monasterio delas Descalzas Reales. Spend the night aslocals do by Tasca hopping. See p. 711 formore information.

Day 6How does the Museo del Prado compareto the Louvre? Today’s your day to find

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out. If there’s time, head over to theMuseo Nacional Centro de Arte ReinaSofia, home of Picasso’s famous Guer-nica. If you aren’t too exhausted, take in aflamenco show after dinner.

Day 7Take the 10:25am high-speed train fromCharmartín station to Barcelona Sants,arriving at 2:43pm. Spend the afternoonand evening strolling the Barri Gòtic, thecity’s Gothic quarter, or the famouspromenade of La Rambla. For more sight-seeing options in Barcelona, see p. 762.

Day 8Start your morning with a tour of LaSagrada Família; then head either toParc Güell for more Modernist master-pieces, or take in the Fundació JoanMiró or Museu Picasso museums. (Thisis a good time to take a break from muse-ums, and lounge on a bench in Parc Güellstaring at the sky.)

Take the 8:15pm Euro Night train outof Estacio de França to Milan, whereyou’ll transfer to the 10am Eurostar Italia train bound for Rome, arriving at2:30pm on Day 9.

Day 9Check into your hotel in Rome andspend the afternoon and evening touringthe ruins of Ancient Rome, starting at theCapitoline Hill and walking along theVia dei Fori Imperiali to the ruins of theColosseum. See p. 543 for more sight-seeing options in the city.

Day 10Spend the entire day perusing the con-tents of the Vatican Museums. Seeingthe Sistine Chapel is a given, but don’tmiss the Pinacoteca (picture gallery),which is loaded with masterpieces.

Day 11Say goodbye to Rome and take a morningtrain—trains run twice an hour and reser-vations are necessary—for the 95-minute

journey to Florence. Florence is fortu-nately compact, so once you’ve checkedinto your hotel, you can spend your daystrolling the axis from the Basilica diSanta Maria Novella to Il Duomo, thePalazzo Vecchio, and Giotto’s BellTower. See p. 563 for further details onthe city.

Day 12Check out of your hotel, stash your bagsat the train station, and spend your entireday, if possible, submerged in the art ofthe Galleria degli Uffizi. Tear yourselfaway from the museum’s masterpieces inorder to grab your bags and board the7:54pm train to Venice, arriving at10:49pm. (Either have an early dinner in Florence or eat in the Eurostar Italiatrain’s dining car.) See p. 580 for moredetails on Venice.

Day 13Venice is art. Explore the Piazza SanMarco in the morning—be sure to stopin at the Ducale Palace & Bridge ofSighs and St. Mark’s Basilica—and thenwander the city’s many canals and bridgesin the afternoon.

Day 14Museum buffs should hit the Galleriadell’Accademia for older art, the Col-lezione Peggy Guggenheim for newerworks, and Ca’ d’Oro, where a multitudeof masterpieces are hung in a grand set-ting in a former palace. If you preferarchitecture to museums, take a vaporetto(water taxi) ride along the Grand Canaland visit several of Venice’s beautifulchurches and guild houses.

Day 15Bid farewell to Europe and fly home outof Venice.


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Before you leave: If you don’t want to be leftout in the cold, it is crucial to make dinnerreservations by phone in advance before youleave home.

Day 1Arrive in the morning in London. Thecity is actually a center of global cuisinewhere you can eat a different country’sfood every day for weeks—it’s an often-underrated foodie capital that’s about alot more than fish and chips (though youshould have those too!). Spend the dayvisiting the sites of Westminster: West-minster Abbey, 10 Downing Street, BigBen, and the Houses of Parliament. Fordinner, sample the festive Indian cuisineat Mela. Top off the evening with a pintat a pub near your hotel. See p. 415 andp. 408 for more on dining and sightsee-ing in the city.

Day 2Today’s a royal day in London. Spend along morning at the Tower of London,have lunch, and then head off to Kens-ington Palace. Grab a pretheater dinnerat Michelin-starred chef Nico Ladenis’sIncognico, then head off to the WestEnd and see a show.

Day 3In the morning, visit the BritishMuseum. Shop a bit in Covent Garden

and stop in at one of Soho’s many patis-series (Maison Bertaux’s our favorite) fora traditional afternoon tea. Then, headoff to South Kensington and pop in atthe Victoria & Albert Museum. Foryour final night in London, dine at theultra-British but thoroughly modern cui-sine at Rules Restaurant.

Day 4After a good English breakfast, take amorning Eurostar train (trip time: 2 hr.,15 min.) ride to Paris. Your Eurail SelectPass gives you a discount on this speedybut expensive train. (See p. 395 for moreon the Eurostar.) Spend the afternoon atthe Louvre and have dinner in a tradi-tional French brasserie. See p. 273 fordining options in Paris.

Day 5Get acquainted with monumental Paris.Begin at the Arc de Triomphe and strolldown the Champs-Elysées to the Egypt-ian obelisk; then either stand in line forthe Eiffel Tower or explore the Ile St-Louis and the Quartier Latin. Take abreak at a Left Bank cafe for coffee andpastries, and around sunset, head forNotre-Dame Cathedral to top off yourParis monuments tour. Have dinner in aLeft Bank bistro.

I T I N E R A RY 8 : E U R O P E F O R F O O D L O V E R S 17

I T I N E R A R Y 8 E U R O P E F O R F O O D L O V E R S



Ideal passes: First-class three-country Eurail Select Pass (5 or 6 days depending on theside trips you take), plus Eurostar ticket

Arrive in: London

Depart from: Barcelona

This 2-week trip features a walk through some of the best and most recognizedregional cuisine and dining experiences in Europe. We start you off in London, whereyou can take afternoon tea or dine on classic pub grub, then head off to indulge in therenowned food mecca of Paris plus the celebrated cuisines of Tuscany and Spain witha side trip to Provence as a bonus. Loosen your belt as you eat your way throughEurope.

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ToulouseToulouse

MunichMunich

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Itinerary 8: Europe for Food Lovers

Day 6Explore a Parisian food market thismorning to see where chefs get theirinspiration. Then visit Fauchon, the ulti-mate gourmet food store, for the ingredi-ents of a picnic lunch. Spend the rest ofthe day exploring the sights of the Ile dela Cité and Le Marais before seeing whatall that three-star Michelin stuff is aboutat L’Ambroisie (just be prepared toempty your wallet). Get some rest—you’ll have an early start and a very longday tomorrow.

Day 7Depart Paris on the 10:20am TGV trainto Avignon, in Provence (arriving at

12:57pm). This former capital of Chris-tendom offers excellent dining and themagnificent Palais des Papes (Palace ofthe Popes) for touring. Have an earlydinner because you’ll need to hop theTGV back to Paris at 8:56pm to arrive at11:40pm. Fall into bed and get a well-deserved night’s sleep. See p. 300 for din-ing options in the city.

Day 8Sleep in a little, have a leisurely breakfast,and then spend the day at the Muséed’Orsay and Centre Pompidou. Havelunch in one of the city’s celebrated cafes(the avant-garde Café Beaubourg is justacross from the Pompidou). You can

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bring along Parisian takeout or have din-ner on the 7:06pm overnight train (out ofGare de Bercy) to Florence, your base forTuscany. You’ll arrive at 7:16am on Day 9.

Day 9Work up your appetite today by strollingFlorence from the Basilica di SantaMaria Novella to the Duomo, thePalazzo Vecchio, and finally SantaCroce. Have lunch at a simple Italianrestaurant such as Buca dell’Orafo or DaGanino. For dinner, eat at the legendaryTuscan restaurant Paoli. See p. 583 formore on dining in the city.

Day 10It’s excursion time: Catch the 9:33amtrain to the Tuscan city of Pisa. You’llarrive at 10:31am and should immedi-ately set out for the famous LeaningTower. For lunch, sample excellent Pisancuisine at Antica Trattoria Da Bruno,near the tower. Then tour the Duomoand the Baptistery before returning toFlorence on the 5:29pm train (arriving6:33pm). Sample some more delectableTuscan cuisine at dinner, then havedessert and coffee at one of the city’smany sidewalk cafes and people-watch.

Day 11Spend the morning at the Boboli Gar-dens and the Palazzo Pitti. Take a longlunch at Cantinetta Antinori, samplingthe wines. After a siesta, do some shop-ping and have a final Tuscan dinner atTrattoria Garga.

Day 12Get up early and spend the day in theGalleria degli Uffizi, one of the world’sgreatest art museums. Take the 4:14pmexpress train from Florence to Milan,where you’ll have a 50-minute layoverbefore connecting to the 7:50pm over-night train to Barcelona. Have dinner onthe train or grab something in Milan’s sta-tion before you depart. You’ll arrive inBarcelona at 9:01am.

Day 13Barcelona has an embarrassment of riches,both culinary and architectural. Checkinto your hotel and then start your day offat La Sagrada Familia cathedral, the city’sfamous cathedral, and wander the city’sGothic Quarter. Take lunch at Garduña,located in the back of Catalonia’s best foodmarket, before visiting the MuseuPicasso. Retire to your hotel room for asiesta, then eat a late dinner and spend thenight downing bubbly at Barcelona’snumerous cava (champagne) bars. See p. 766 for more on dining in the city.

Day 14Start your day off by visiting the ParcGüell, and the Fundació Joan Miró.Spend a relaxing afternoon sipping cavaand munching tapas at El Xampanyet,and eat a late dinner at one of Barcelona’sexcellent Catalonian restaurants—JeanLuc Figueras is a good choice.

Day 15Say adios to Europe and fly home fromBarcelona.

I T I N E R A R Y 9 G R E A T C I T I E S O F E U R O P E



Ideal passes: First-class 5-day, four-country Eurail Select Pass, plus Eurostar tickets

Arrive in: Rome

Depart from: Berlin

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Day 1Land at Rome’s Fiumicino airport, start-ing your European rail journey with thetrain shuttle to the Roma Termini Station(don’t waste a day on your railpass for thisride, though—the ticket is very cheap).Check into your hotel before startingyour exploration of ancient Rome, begin-ning at the Capitoline Hill and walkingalong the Via dei Fori Imperiali to theruins of the Colosseum. Nearby you’llfind the ruins of the Roman Forum andthe Palatine Hill. Have dinner near thePantheon and visit the Trevi Fountain.See p. 536 for more on the city.

Day 2Spend today exploring the treasures ofthe Vatican. Take in St. Peter’s Basilicain the morning and the Vatican Muse-ums in the afternoon. Have dinner inTrastevere.

Day 3During the morning, shop and strollaround the Spanish Steps. In the after-noon, take in another museum, such asthe Galleria Borghese, or enjoy people-watching on the Piazza della Rotondanear the Pantheon. Around 5pm, head toStazione Termini for your first major railtrip: the Artesia France-Italy Nighttrain departing at 6:40pm from Rome,arriving at 9:10am the next morning inParis.

Day 4Get acquainted with Paris. Begin at theArc de Triomphe and stroll down theChamps-Elysées to the Egyptian obelisk;then either stand in line for the EiffelTower or explore the Ile St-Louis and theLatin Quarter. Around sunset, head forNotre-Dame Cathedral to top off your

day. Eat dinner in a Left Bank cafe. See p. 254 for more information on Paris.

Day 5Start your day off exploring the St-Ger-main-des-Prés area. Move on to the Ilede la Cité, before heading to the Place dela Bastille. Finish your day off by touringfashionable Le Marais. Then eat dinner ata brasserie and spend the night people-watching at a sidewalk cafe.

Day 6Spend the day at the Louvre; if you wanta change of scenery, tack on a visit to themagnificent Musée d’Orsay. Be sure toindulge in some Parisian pastries beforethe day is through.

Day 7Grab a croissant on the way to the Garede Nord and take a morning Eurostartrain to London. The just-over-2-hourjourney rockets across France at up to180 mph (290kmph). It may appearcostly, but the passholder fare is no moreexpensive (and far more comfortable)than the combined fare for a high-speedferry from Calais to Dover and a localtrain from Dover to London. (See p. 395 for more on Eurostar.)

You’ll arrive in London aroundlunchtime. Leave your bags at your hoteland grab lunch at a nearby pub. Spendthe afternoon touring the sights of West-minster: Westminster Abbey, 10 Down-ing Street, Big Ben, and the Houses ofParliament. Have dinner in Covent Gar-den. See p. 400 for more on the Britishcapital.

Day 8If you couldn’t get into Westminster Abbeyon Day 7, try again. Otherwise, spend the


Europe has been the center of many a globe-girdling empire. This 2-week trip gets youto the heart of the Continent’s great cities—and gives you as much time as possible toexplore their sights and sounds—and to meet their people.

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Itinerary 9: Great Cities of Europe

morning at the British Museum, and afterlunch head over to the Tower of London.If you have time, take a ride on the BritishAirways London Eye, just across the river.After a quick dinner, head over to the WestEnd and catch a show.

Day 9If one of your days in London is a week-end, spend some time at one or two ofthe major markets, such as PortobelloRoad. If you’re here midweek, wave helloto the lions in Trafalgar Square and tourthe National Gallery, one of Europe’sfinest art museums (and it’s free!). Grabsome lunch, shop a bit at Covent Garden,and end your day at the Victoria &Albert Museum—home of the world’s

greatest collection of decorative arts(don’t miss the British Galleries).

Day 10Fortify yourself with a good Englishbreakfast this morning before heading to Waterloo station for the 10am Euro-star to Brussels, the capital of the European Union. The trip takes under 2 hours, but you’ll arrive after 1pmthanks to a 1-hour time difference. See p. 129 for more on Brussels.

Once you arrive, stash your luggage atGare du Midi, then hop a train to GareCentral and head to the medieval Grand-Place, a World Heritage Site, for some ofthe city’s famous seafood and mussels.After dinner, head back to Gare du Midi

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and get on the 8:25pm InterCity train forthe 23⁄4-hour trip to Amsterdam. You’ll getin late, so take a cab to your hotel. Wesuggest staying near Centraal Station, at ahotel such as the Hotel Amsterdam-De Roode Leeuw or the Amstel Botel.See p. 629 in chapter 14 for more hoteloptions.

Day 11You’ve only got 2 days in Amsterdam, sofocus on the city center. Explore the coreof the city either by foot or on a canalboat, stopping at the Dam Square, thepicturesque Flower Market at Munt-plein, the immense market at Water-looplein, and the lively Leidseplein.After a late lunch, stop at the renownedRijksmuseum to see its current “greatesthits” exhibition of Dutch art. For dinner,sample one of the city’s Indonesianrijsttafel buffets. After dinner, if youdare, take an evening walk through theRed Light District on the way back toyour hotel—it only gets livelier as it getslater.

Day 12Check out of your hotel early, store yourluggage, and head to the western part ofthe city this morning, past the DutchRenaissance–style Westerkerk, to thehaunting Anne Frank House. Havelunch at De Prins, right across the canal.Unwind with a coffee and “brown-cafe”style food while people-watching alongthe canal.

Make sure to be at Schiphol Station intime to catch the 2:51pm InterCity train

to Berlin (alas, there are no decentovernight trains from Amsterdam to theGerman capital). Have dinner on thetrain and arrive in Berlin at 9:18pm.Check into your hotel and get a goodnight’s sleep.

Day 13In the morning, visit the BrandenburgGate, symbol of Berlin, then walk downUnter den Linden and enjoy breakfast atone of the cafes that line the street. Headto the store-lined Ku’damm to witnessGerman capitalism in action. In the after-noon, visit the Greek and Roman antiq-uities in the Pergamon Museum, thenhead south to explore the charming 16th-century Nikolai Quarter. If theyare playing, when you are in town, theBerlin Philharmonic Orchestra is oneof the best in the world. For more onBerlin, see p. 330.

Day 14Visit the masterpieces at the Gemäldega-lerie, then tour Charlottenburg Palaceand its museums. Spend any leftover timestrolling through Berlin, perhaps stop-ping at the Cold War’s CheckpointCharlie. Or take a day-trip to beautifulPotsdam, just 20 minutes away by train(trains depart throughout the day), andexplore the Sans Souci Palace and itssurrounding parkland. After dinner, do asBerliners do and have a drink at a Kneipe,the local version of a British pub.

Day 15Fly back to your home from Berlin.


I T I N E R A R Y 1 0 T H E G R A N D T O U R


Best time of year: Any time

Ideal passes: First-class 15-day Eurail Global Pass or point-to-point tickets (cheapest)

Arrive in: Lisbon

Depart from: Berlin

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Itinerary 10: The Grand Tour

Day 1Time your flight to arrive in Lisbon asearly as possible. Start your day with astroll through the Alfama, the mostatmospheric quarter of Lisbon. Visit thecity’s 12th-century cathedral and take in aview of the city and the river Tagus from

the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. Climbup to the Castelo de São Jorge and takein another breathtaking view from thecastle’s observation platform. Consider anap before spending a late night at a fadoclub in the Alfama. See p. 688 for moreinformation on the Portuguese capital.

The European Union may have a single currency (well, minus a few pesky holdoutshere and there), but it’s got more than a dozen unique cultures. A dozen in 15 days isa bit too much of a challenge for us, but this long-distance journey lets you experiencesix distinctly different flavors of Europe without having to change your money once—the most diversity and least hassle you can get in 2 weeks. Note that the five rail legsused in this itinerary are night trains, so you’ll save on hotel rooms, but will have tobudget for sleeper supplements.

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Day 2Head to the suburb of Belém to see theMosteiro dos Jerónimos, the Torre deBelém, and the Museu Nacional dosCoches. After lunch, see the artworks atthe Museu de Fundação Calouste Gul-benkian, or shop at the open-air Feira daLadra. Take the overnight Lusitânia hoteltrain to Madrid (p. 674).

Day 3Drop your luggage at your hotel, thenstart your day in Madrid at the RoyalPalace and work your way east to theMonasterio las Descalzas Reales. Afterchecking into your hotel, snack your wayaround the many tapas bars in the PlazaMayor area. See p. 722 for more onMadrid.

Day 4Check out the masterpieces at the MuseoLázaro Galdiano in the morning andshop the El Rastro flea market in theafternoon. Or take a day-trip to explorethe Moorish architectural riches of Cór-doba—hourly AVE express trains leavefrom Madrid’s Atocha station for the 2-hour journey. See p. 748 for more on thisMoorish city.

Day 5Spend your last day in Madrid at theMuseo del Prado, and take the overnightFrancisco de Goya train to Paris. Thistrain, one of the Elipsos series, is one ofEurope’s most luxurious regular trips;even the most basic accommodation is afour-berth sleeper, not a six-berth cou-chette room like those on many othertrains (p. 258).

Day 6See Day 4 of the “Great Cities of Europe”itinerary (p. 20).

Day 7See Day 5 of the “Great Cities of Europe”itinerary (p. 20).

Day 8Spend the day immersed in art at theLouvre and the Musée d’Orsay. Grabsome gourmet French takeout at Fau-chon for dinner and take the overnighttrain to Florence, departing Paris at7:06pm and arriving at 7:16am.

Day 9Florence is all about art. Spend your daystrolling the city from the Basilica diSanta Maria Novella to the Duomo, thePalazzo Vecchio, and finally SantaCroce. Florence is all about food too, soload up on Tuscan cuisine at dinner. Seep. 574 for dining options in Florence.

Day 10Allot the entire day for the Galleria degliUffizi, one of the world’s greatest artmuseums. If you need a change ofscenery, stroll the Boboli Gardens andtake in the art at the Palazzo Pitti. Takethe 10:14pm overnight train to Vienna,arriving at 8:52am.

Day 11See Day 7 of the “Riding the ScenicRoute” itinerary (p. 8).

Day 12Explore other major Vienna attractions,such as the Kaiserliche Hofburg (Impe-rial Court Palace) and the Kunsthis-torisches Museum. Get to the trainstation in time to take the 7:50pmovernight train to Berlin (arriving at8:03am).

Day 13You’ll get to Berlin by breakfast time, sohead for Unter den Linden and enjoybreakfast at one of the cafes that line thestreet. Head to the store-lined Ku’dammto shop until you feel like eating lunch. Inthe afternoon, visit the Greek and Romanantiquities in the Pergamon Museum,then head south to explore the charming16th-century Nikolai Quarter. If they


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are playing, when you are in town, theBerlin Philharmonic Orchestra is oneof the best in the world. For more on thecity, see p. 330.

Day 14Visit the masterpieces at the Gemäldega-lerie, then tour Charlottenburg Palace

and its museums. Spend any leftover timestrolling through Berlin, perhaps stop-ping at the Cold War’s CheckpointCharlie. Top off your trip with a drink atone of Berlin’s vaunted wine cellars.

Day 15Fly home from Berlin.

I T I N E R A RY 1 0 : T H E G R A N D T O U R 25

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Touring Europe by Rail...Touring Europe by Rail R ich, ancient, and incredibly diverse, the nations of Europe offer a vast array of sights, climates, cultures, and cuisines. The 10