1010

10

Greatest pubsMost fun places for childrenLegends & myths of the CeltsPlaces to enjoy Irish music Best hotels, inns & B&BsFinest Irish writers & playwrightsLiveliest bars & clubsExcursions across IrelandBest restaurants & cafés Insider tips for every visitor

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

TOP 10

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

DUBLIN

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

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South of the Liffeypp52–59

North of the Liffeypp60–67

0500 500yards metres

Dublin Area by AreaThis Top 10 Travel Guide to Dublin divides this vibrant city into threeareas: north and south of the River Liffey, which flows through thecapital, and the Greater Dublin vicinity. Key sights across Ireland andNorthern Ireland are also covered, on pages 82-117. The maps belowshow the location and extent of each chapter. Colour bands on thepages covering each area correspond to the colours shown on thesemaps. Every place mentioned in the book has a map reference, whichrefers you to the large maps on the front and back flaps.

Left Four Courts Right St Patrick’s Cathedral

Left Temple Bar Right The Commons restaurant, Dublin

Letterkenny Londonderry(Derry)

Donegal Omagh

Enniskillen

Monaghan

Bangor

Belfast

Lisbum

Armagh

Newry

Dundalk

DUBLIN

KilkennyLimerick

Tipperary

Waterford

CorkKillarney

Tralee

Galway

Wexford

Athlone

Sligo

Coleraine

Dingle

EnnisThurles

Cashel

Clonmacnoise

Arklow

Knock

Cavan

Roscrea

Dun Laoghaire

Wicklow

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Ballina

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Waterville St George'sChannel

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pp100–103AroundGalway

Connemaraand Mayopp104–107

Northern Irelandpp114–117

Greater Dublinpp68–77

Clonmacnoisepp98–99

WicklowMountainspp80–81

pp94–97Tipperary, Limerickand Clare

pp82–85Around Waterford

Around Corkpp90–93

pp86–89The Ring of Kerryand Dingle Peninsula

Yeats Countryand theNorthwestpp108–113

040 40miles km

Left Caha Mountain, Beara Peninsula Right Hook Peninsula

Left Bedford Tower, Dublin Castle Right Grafton Street, Dublin

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02 2miles km

Central Dublin

Top 10 sight

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200 200100100 0 metresyards

DUBLIN

POLLY PHILLIMORE

&

ANDREW SANGER

DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

2

Contents

Dublin’s Top 10

Trinity College 8

National Museum

of Ireland 10

National Gallery 12

Dublin Castle 14

Temple Bar 18

Christ Church Cathedral 20

St Patrick’s Cathedral 22

Guinness Storehouse 24

Kilmainham Gaol

and Hospital 26

Phoenix Park 28

Moments in History 30

Historic Buildings 32

Dublin Writers 34

Children’s Attractions 36

Produced by Sargasso Media Ltd, London

Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in Italy by Graphicom

First published in Great Britain in 2003by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

A Penguin Company

Copyright 2003, 2005 © Dorling

Kindersley Limited, London

Reprinted with revisions 2005

All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording

or otherwise, without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.

A CIP catalogue record is available fromthe British Library.

ISBN 1 4053 0799 4

Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s

opinion, of roughly equal merit.

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nte

nts Left Four Courts Right Horse and Carriages, Killarney

Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front – Corbis Tim Thompson main; DK Images Tim Daly bl; Alan Williams cl. Back – DK Images Joe Cornish tr; Alan Williams tc;Photolibrary.com Indexstock tl. Spine – DK Images.

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time ofgoing to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,

gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publisherscannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of

our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.

3Key to abbreviations

Adm admission charge Free no admission charge Dis. access disabled access

Sporting Events 37

Legends and Myths 38

Performing Arts Venues 40

Pubs 42

Nightlife 44

Shops 46

Restaurants 48

Around Town

South of the Liffey 52

North of the Liffey 60

Greater Dublin 68

Around Ireland

Wicklow Mountains 80

Around Waterford 82

Ring of Kerry and Dingle

Peninsula 86

Around Cork 90

Tipperary, Limerick

and Clare 94

Clonmacnoise 98

Around Galway 100

Connemara and Mayo 104

Yeats Country

and the Northwest 108

Northern Ireland 114

Streetsmart

Practical Information 120

Places to Stay 128

General Index 136

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Left Glendalough Right Rock of Dunamase

Left Powerscourt Gardens Right Grafton Street

DUBLIN’STOP10

Dublin Highlights 6–7

Trinity College8–9

National Museum of Ireland

10–11

National Gallery 12–13

Dublin Castle14–17

Temple Bar18–19

Christ Church Cathedral

20–21

St Patrick’s Cathedral

22–23

Guinness Storehouse

24–25

Kilmainham Gaol and Hospital

26–27

Phoenix Park28–29

Top Ten of Everything30–49

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Dublin’s HighlightsOne of the most popular capitals in Europe, Dublin is a city steeped in history.Huddled together within a small vicinity you’ll find Viking remains, medievalcathedrals and churches, Georgian squares and excellent museums. But it’snot just about buildings – music, theatre, literature and pubs play just asstrong a part in Dublin’s atmosphere. These 10 sights are the must-sees forany visitor who wants to truly capture the variety and vibrancy of the city.

Trinity CollegeThe elder statesmanof Ireland’s universities,Trinity is also one of the

oldest in Europe. Itsbuildings and grounds area landmark in the heart of

the city (see pp8–9).

National Museum of IrelandThree collections in three locations

make up this outstanding museum,ranging from dinosaurs to modernfurniture (see pp10–11).

National GalleryWonderful Italian, French,

Dutch and Spanish works areexhibited here, alongside animpressive collection of Irish art(see pp12–13).

Dublin CastleA surprisingly peaceful area, the castle

was built into the medieval walls of the cityand originally protected by the River Liffey tothe north and the now underground RiverPoddle (see pp14–17).

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Temple BarThis ancient part of the

city has been revamped intoone of its busiest areas, dayand night. There is noshortage of places to eatand drink (see pp18–19).

Christ Church CathedralStriking Norman, Gothic, Romanesque

and Victorian featuresjostle for atten-

tion in thisformer Viking

church (seepp20–21).

St Patrick’sCathedral

Known colloquially asthe “People’sCathedral”, this is oneof the earliestChristian sites in thecity and is theProtestant commu-nity’s main place ofworship in the capital(see pp22–3).

GuinnessStorehouse

A pint of Guinness could bethe country’s nationalsymbol. This fascinatingexhibition at the GuinnessBrewery ends with awelcome free pint of thefamous black stuff in thesampling bar (see pp24–5).

Kilmainham Gaol andKilmainham Hospital

After a sobering tour of the one-time prison, lighten the mood atthe former hospital, which nowhouses the Irish Museum ofModern Art (see pp26–7).

Phoenix ParkThe great pride and play area of Dubliners,

this is the largest city park in Europe. Historicmonuments and Dublin Zoo are only a few ofits delights (see pp28–9).

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8

In South Frederick

Street there’s an

excellent Italian

delicatessen serving

delicious snacks,

wine and coffee.

The exhibition “The

Book of Kells:Turning

Darkness into Light”

explains the history

and background to

illuminated

manuscripts. It

includes full-scale

reproductions of the

Book of Kells and a

number of others.

• College Green• Map F4• 01-608 2308 • www.tcd.ie • Library open Jun–Sep:9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,9:30am–4:30pm Sun;Oct–May: 9:30am–5pmMon–Sat, noon–4:30pmSun • Adm €7.50• Dis. access

Trinity College is Dublin’s most famous educational institution and, since itsfoundation in the 16th century, has produced many impressive alumni, amongthem Jonathan Swift, William Congreve, Oliver Goldsmith, Oscar Wilde, BramStoker and Samuel Beckett. Situated on College Green, this was once part ofthe All Hallows Monastery grounds, but is unfortunately now a busy roadjunction. It is Trinity itself that provides the haven in this area. Entering throughthe West Front, under a wooden-tiled archway, is like walking into a bucolictime-warp: cobbled quadrangle, smooth green lawns and an array of fine18th- and 19th-century buildings. A number of the buildings are open to thepublic, the most outstanding being the Old Library, home to more than 4million books and one of the country’s greatest treasures, the Book of Kells.

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For more historic buildings in Dublin See pp32–3

Façade

Trinity College

Top 10 Features

1 West Front2 Campanile3 Old Library4 Book of Kells5 Examination Hall6 Chapel7 Dining Hall8 Museum Building9 Berkeley Library Building0 Douglas Hyde Gallery

West FrontCollege Green, facing

the West Front entrance toTrinity, was originally calledHoggen Green. The statuesof Edmund Burke and OliverGoldsmith which flank theentrance are the work of thesculptor John Foley.

CampanileThis 30-m (100-ft) bell-

tower (right) is thecentrepiece ofTrinity’s main quad,enclosed by fine18th- and 19th-century build-ings. Built by SirCharles Lanyon,the architectof Queen’sUniversityin Belfast,in 1853, itmarks thesite of AllHallowsmonastery.

Old LibraryEntry to the Old

Library (above), builtbetween 1712 and 1732,is from Fellows’ Square.The finest feature is themagnificent 64-m (200-ft)Long Room, with twotiers of antiquated oakbookcases holding morethan 200,000 books. Thebarrel-vaulted ceiling wasadded in 1860. The col-lection grows yearly asTrinity is entitled to copiesof all titles published inIreland and the UK.

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The History ofTrinity CollegeFounded in 1592 byQueen Elizabeth I onthe site of All HallowsAugustinian Monastery,and modelled on theuniversities of Oxfordand Cambridge, Trinity’sobjective was to provideyoung Protestants withan alternative to goingto universities in Europewhere they might fallunder the influence ofCatholicism. TheAnglican bias lasted intothe 1970s even thoughreligious restrictionswere abolished in 1793.

Examination HallBoth the hall and the

chapel were designed bythe Scottish architect SirWilliam Chambers in the1780s. The mostmemorable feature is thegilded oak chandelier.

ChapelThe chapel, com-

pleted in 1798, is the onlyone in Ireland shared byall denominations. Thefine stained-glasswindow (right) above thealtar dates from 1867.

Dining HallJust beside the

chapel, this grand dininghall, where Trinity’s manystudents eat, wasoriginally built by RichardCassels in 1742, but ithas been considerablyaltered over the the past250 years. It has beentotally restored after afire in 1984 and the wallsare hung with hugeportraits of collegedignitaries.

Douglas HydeGallery

One of Ireland’s leadingcontemporary artgalleries, the DouglasHyde has exhibitions byboth emerging and well-established artists fromIreland and abroad.

Berkeley LibraryBuilding

In front of Paul Koralek’s1967 creation is thesculpture Sphere within aSphere (1982) by ArnaldoPomodoro (below).

Museum BuildingThis fine Venetian-

style building (above)was designed by SirThomas Deane andBenjamin Woodward andcompleted in 1857. Inside,a pair of giant Irish deerskeletons stand guard inthe magnificent hall. Thedetailed decoration ofsmaller animals, birdsand flowers was carvedby the O’Shea brothers.

Plan of Trinity CollegeBook Of KellsThis beautifully

decorated illuminatedmanuscript is one of thecity’s most treasuredpossessions. It isthought to date fromaround AD 800 and isbelieved to be the workof monks from the islandof Iona in Scotland. Theymoved to Kells in CountyMeath to escape Vikingraids and the book waseventually given to Trinityby the Bishop of Meathin 1654.

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The café at Collins

Barracks is excellent.

If the weather’s good

you can sit out under

the arches and

admire the courtyard

and the buildings.

• National Museum ofIreland: Kildare Street,Dublin 2; NationalHistory Museum:Merrion Street, Dublin 2;Collins Barracks:Benburb Street, Dublin 7• Map F5• 01-677 7444• www.museum.ie• Open 10am–5pmTue–Sat, 2–5pm Sun• Free• Dis. access groundfloor only (NationalHistory Museum); partial(Collins Barracks)

There are three different parts to this huge and outstanding museum. TheKildare Street branch offers archaeology and history, ranging from prehistoricIreland’s early culture to the fierce conflict of 1916–22 (see p35) portrayed inthe Road to Independence exhibition. The Merrion Street branch comprisesthe Museum of Natural History, colloquially known as “The Dead Zoo” – everysort of animal and environmental artifact is displayed over three floors. Thethird branch of the museum is in Benburb Street, at the west end of the cityin the recently converted Collins Barracks. This is a very different experience,with the most up-to-date display techniques and interesting and variedcollections portraying the country’s decorative arts and social, military,economic and political history.

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Museum of NaturalHistory façade

National Museum of Ireland

Top 10 Exhibits

1 Façade2 Or – Ireland’s Gold3 Treasury4 Viking Collection5 The Road to Independence6 Prehistoric Ireland7 Curator’s Choice8 Fonthill Vase9 Irish Silver0 Scientific Instruments

Façade The exterior of the

museum in Kildare Street isan example of Neo-Palladianstyle, recently enhanced byrenovation. Enter the grandportals into the foyer with its19-m (62-ft) domed ceilingand exquisite floor mosaics.

Or – Ireland’s GoldThis outstanding

collection of ancient gold(below) was found in variouscounties as far apart asCounty Clare and CountyDerry. The pieces show theextraordinary level of skilland invention of 7th- and8th-century artisans.

TreasuryPart of a hoard found

in County Limerick in1868, the Ardagh Chaliceis probably the museum’smost famous object. Thesuperbly crafted mid-8th-century ministerialchalice is a beautifulexample of the Irish EarlyChristian metalworker’scraft. Another beautyfrom this great collectionis the Tara Brooch.

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Museum GuideIf you want to visit allthree parts of theNational Museum onthe same day, start withthe Natural HistoryMuseum in MerrionSquare. The NationalMuseum is only a fewminutes’ walk fromhere but there is atourist Hop-On-Hop-Offbus that will take youfrom one to the other. Ifyou’re walking, turnright at the lights onBaggot Street. Walkalong the north side ofSt Stephen’s Green,turn right into KildareStreet to the NationalMuseum. From here tothe third wing, CollinsBarracks, take thetourist bus to the northof the river.

Viking CollectionIreland’s Viking Age

spanned from AD 800–1200 and part of thisexhibition (above) con-centrates on the warlikeaspect of this period. Theskeleton of a warriorcomplete with swordwas excavated fromburial grounds aroundKilmainham (see pp26–7).

The Road toIndependence

An important section ofthe museum for anyonetrying to get a grasp ofIreland’s history at thetime of independence.The events, casualtiesand repercussions of the1916–22 struggle arestarkly presented (above),and the uniforms of theparticipants give asobering touch.

Prehistoric IrelandThe Lurgan Long-

boat, dating from around2500 BC, is an extraordi-nary exhibit, made out ofhollowed-out oak trunksand 15 m (50 ft) long.Other interesting piecesinclude the cast bronzehorns, probably playedlike the Australian didger-idoo, and a range ofprehistoric pots (below).

Curator’s ChoiceIn this wonderful

gallery 25 objects havebeen selected by respec-tive curators from variouscollections, each piecedisplayed to reflect itscharacter and context.The 13th-century carvedoak statue of St Molaisefrom County Sligo andthe 19th-century Floratapestry are just two ofthe eclectic gathering.

Fonthill VaseThis vase (below) is

of immense significanceas the only survivingexample of porcelain tohave left China in the14th century and whosehistory can be tracedfrom that moment on.

Irish SilverThe silver collection

ranges from the 17th to20th centuries andshows a huge variety ofstyles. The arrival ofFrench Huguenotsilversmiths in Dublinhad a strong influence onlocal design.

ScientificInstruments

Even if you’re not ofscientific bent youcannot but admire thebeauty and precision ofthese instruments(below). The incredibledetail and design of theAstrolabe from the CzechRepublic makes it both afine technical instrumentand a work of art.

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The gallery’s Fitzers

restaurant is well

respected but can

get very busy at

lunchtime, as it is a

popular venue for

the local workforce

as well as gallery

visitors.There is a

large open-plan

space at the Clare

Street entrance

which is the self-

service restaurant.

On the upper level is

a café.

• Clare St & MerrionSquare, Dublin 2 • Map G5• 01-661 5133• www.nationalgallery.ie• Open 9:30am–5:30pmMon–Wed, Fri–Sat,9:30am–8:30pm Thu,noon–5:30pm Sun• Dis. access• Free

The National Gallery’s outstanding collection of Western European art rangesfrom the Middle Ages to the present day and includes, as one might expect inthe nation’s capital, the most important gathering of Irish art in the world.The gallery was designed by architect Francis Fowke (1823–65) and openedin January 1864. The Milltown Wing was added in 1903, the Beit Wing in1968 and the Millennium Wing in 2002, the latter bringing a huge improve-ment in exhibition space and public facilities. The gallery has had someimportant donors during its history, includingCountess Milltown, George Bernard Shaw (seep34), Sir Hugh Lane, Chester Beatty (see p17)and Sir Alfred and Lady Beit. The Beits’remarkable presentation was 17 Dutch, Spanishand British Old Master paintings, includingworks by Gainsborough, Vermeer and Velázquez.

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Façade

National Gallery

Top 10 Collections

1 Yeats Museum2 Irish Art3 British School4 Italian Painting5 French Painting6 German, Dutch and

Flemish Painting7 Spanish Painting8 Baroque Rooms9 The Shaw Room0 The Millennium Wing

Yeats Museum This exceptional col-

lection includes portraitsof the Yeats family aswell as an impressivegroup of Jack B Yeats’spaintings, from earlyfavourites such as TheLiffey Swim (1923)(below) to later expres-sionistic work such asGrief (1951).

Irish Art Seven rooms do justice

to this extensive collectiondevoted to 18th- and 19th-century Irish art. Works byNathaniel Hone the Elder(above) are representative of

the 18th century,while NathanielHone theYounger beginsthe transition tothe Impression-ists, representedby RodericO’Connor andWalter FrederickOsborne.

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Gallery GuideThe National Gallery ismade up of four wingson four levels: theDargan Wing, theMilltown Wing, the BeitWing and the Millen-nium Wing. Each winghas colour-coded signsto help visitors find theirway around. There is anentrance on Clare Streetwhich is on the samelevel as the basementof the older building.The Merrion Squareentrance matches upwith Level One of theMillennium Wing. Thereare facilities for wheel-chair users and a specialfloor plan, “Green,marked Access”, showsthe location of all thelifts and ramps.

British School Paintings in this

school span from theTudor period to the early20th century with aparticularly good 18th-century section. Hogarth,Reynolds, Romney,Gainsborough andRaeburn are particularlywell represented.

Italian Painting The lovely Italian

collection ranges fromthe Renaissance to the18th century. Caravaggio’sThe Taking of Christ (1602)is the most outstandingpiece in the 17th-centuryworks of art.

French Painting Monet’s A River

Scene, Autumn (1874)(right) is one of thehighlights of the Frenchcollection, most of whichdates from the 17th tothe 19th centuries.

German, Dutchand Flemish

Painting One of the interestingpaintings in the Flemishcollection is a collabora-tive work, Christ in theHouse of Martha andMary (1628), with figuresby Peter Paul Rubens setin a Jan Brueghel IIlandscape (below).

Spanish Painting Goya, Velázquez and

Murillo are among manygreat artists in this collec-tion, which concentrateson the 17th century. Themodern era is representedby Picasso’s Still Lifewith Mandolin (1924).

Baroque RoomsThe Baroque collec-

tion is divided in twoparts. Room 44 has theBaroque Italian, Spanish,French and Flemishpaintings from the 17thand 18th centuries.Room 26 is a gallerydevoted to the wholeBaroque age in Italy.

The Shaw RoomThe financial input

from Shaw’s estate hasenabled the gallery toextend its collections andfacilities over the years.This elegant room islined with portraits ofdignitaries, as well asThe Marriage of Strong-bow and Aoife (above) byDaniel Maclise (1854).

The MillenniumWing

The main galleries addedat the first level of thiswing concentrate onmodern Irish art, showingthe rise of Modernism(rooms 1–5). On otherfloors there are studyrooms, temporary exhi-bition areas and audio-visual facilities. It is amagnificent additionflooded with light.

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The Silk Road Café

beside the Chester

Beatty Library has a

great setting and

serves dishes

inspired by the

countries featured in

the library’s

collections.

The state apartments

are closed to the

public when a

foreign dignitary is

visiting or a national

ceremonial is taking

place, so check in

advance.

• Dame Street, Dublin 2• Map D4• 01-677 7129• www.dublincastle.ie• Castle: open10am–5pm Mon–Fri,2–5pm Sat–Sun; ChesterBeatty Library: openMay–Sep: 10am–5pmMon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat,1–5pm Sun; Oct–Apr:10am–5pm Tue–Fri• Dis. access• Free (guided tour ofstate apartments: Adm€4.50)

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The appropriately imposing structure of Dublin Castle was a controversialsymbol of British rule for 700 years, until it was formally handed over toMichael Collins and the Irish Free State in 1922 (see p31). Commissioned byKing John in the 13th century, over the years the castle evolved from amedieval fortress into a vice-regal court and administrative centre. It hassuffered numerous tribulations in its history, but the most concerted attackwas in 1534, when it was besieged by “Silken Thomas” Fitzgerald (so calledfor his finely embroidered wardrobe), a rebellious courtier who had renouncedhis allegiance to the English Crown. Its current use is primarily ceremonial.Visitors can tour the ornate state apartments andwander freely around the courtyards and museums.

Façade

Dublin Castle

Top 10 Features

1 Chester Beatty Library and Gallery

2 Figure of Justice3 Bedford Tower4 Chapel Royal5 Viking Undercroft6 Throne Room7 Bermingham Tower Room8 St Patrick’s Hall9 Gardens0 Garda Siochana Museum

The Chester BeattyLibrary and Gallery

Sir Alfred Chester Beatty’scollection of Oriental art –one of the finest in theworld – was moved to thesespecially designed galleriesin 1999 (see pp16–17).

Figure of JusticeApproaching the castle

from Cork Hill, the Figure ofJustice (above) guards themain entrance. It faces theUpper Yard, turning its backon the city – as Dublinerscynically commented, an aptsymbol of British justice.

The Bedford TowerThe Norman gate of

the original castle is thebase for this attractive18th-century clock tower(below). In 1907, the Irish“Crown Jewels” – a dia-mond St Patrick Star andBadge – were stolen fromhere and never recovered.

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Building DublinCastleIn 1204, 30 years afterthe Anglo-Normanlanding in Ireland, KingJohn ordered a castle to be built in Dublin. The site found was thehighest ground south-east of the existingtown and protected onthe east and south sideby what was once theRiver Poddle. Much ofthis medieval castlewas destroyed by fire in 1684 and Sir WilliamRobinson completedthe new apartments by 1688. Again, most ofthese were replaced inthe 18th century.

The Chapel RoyalThe exterior of this

Neo-Gothic delight isdecorated with morethan 100 headsbeautifully carved out of Tullamore limestone.

Viking UndercroftMedieval excavations

show the remains of theoriginal castle, includingpart of the 9th-centurycity wall and the moat onthe river Poddle.

The Throne RoomAs its name suggests,

this is the grandest stateapartment in the castle.The throne (above) isflanked by four roundelsand ovals depicting Venus,Jupiter, Juno and Mars. It is attributed to Giam-battista Bellucci, an 18th-century Venetian artist.

BerminghamTower Room

This former medievalprison was convertedinto a state apartment.

St Patrick’s HallThe hall, dedicated

to Ireland’s patron saint(below), has ceilingpaintings by VincenzoValdre depicting incidentsin British and Irishhistory, such St Patricklighting the Pascal Fireon the Hill of Slane.

Garda SiochanaMuseum

This sombre museum(above) is situated in theRecord Tower, the onlystanding remains of theold castle. It offers acomprehensive history ofIreland’s police force.

GardensTo the back of the

chapel are the castle’ssmall gardens. Thesymmetrical design andflowerbeds are oftenoffset by the works ofcontemporary Irishartists.

Plan of

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The Qur’an CollectionThis gathering of more than

260 Qur’ans and Qur’an frag-ments is considered to be themost important of its kind out-side the Middle East. Ibn al-Bawwab is reputed to be one ofthe greatest medieval Islamiccalligraphers and displayed hereis the exquisite Qur’an he copiedin Baghdad in AD 1001.

Illuminated ManuscriptsFine illuminated manuscripts

can be found throughout thelibrary, but the copy of theGulistan of Sa’di, made in the1420s for Baysunghur, a princeof the Timurid dynasty that ruledmuch of Iran in the 15th century,is one of the most beautiful.

Mughai Indian CollectionThis collection includes

some of the best examples ofpainting produced under theguidance of emperors Akbar,Shah Jahan and Jahangir.

PapyrusTexts

Papyrus is anaquatic plant fromwhich ancient Egyptiansmade writing materialsfor their documents.One of the finest here isPaul’s Letter to theRomans (c.AD 180–200). The hieroglyphicand demotic papyrirelate to administrativeand burial practices.

Japanese InroThese tiny, intricate boxes

were used to store seals andmedicines and are reproducedtoday by some perfumiers.

Chinese CollectionThis eclectic display includes

the world’s largest collection ofrhinoceros horn cups, and a stun-ning range of silk dragon robes.

Japanese Picture BooksSome of the finest pieces in

the Japanese collection are thepainted handscrolls and albumsof a type known as Nara Ehon(Nara picture books).

The Persian PoetsFor connoisseurs of Persian

poetry, Firdawsi, Nizami, Hafizand Jami are just four of theauthors of the 330 manuscripts.

WoodblocksThe ukiyo-e woodblock

prints complement the out-standing set of more than 700

prints knownas surimono.The Hyaku-

manto darani is anunusual Buddhist charmhoused in a wood stupa.

Bust of Chester Beatty

A bust of Chester Beattyby the sculptor CarolynMulholland is thecentrepiece of a displaydedicated to Beatty.

Chester Beatty Library ExhibitsLeft Qur’an Right Japanese woodblock print

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Chinese dragon robe

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Alfred Chester Beatty wasborn in New York in 1875,and spent much of hischildhood collectingstamps, minerals andChinese snuff bottles. Inadulthood, with a highlysuccessful miningconsultancy as hisprofession, he could afford topursue his interests andeventually gatheredtogether this outstanding collection of Islamicmanuscripts, Chinese, Japanese and other OrientalArt. Beatty lived and worked in both New York andLondon before finally deciding to settle in Dublin in1950. He built the first library for his preciouscollection on Shrewsbury Road, which was improvedand added to over the years, before finally relocatingto Dublin Castle in 2000. Beatty loved Ireland andcontributed generously to its many galleries andcultural institutions. In 1957 he became the country’sfirst honorary citizen, and decided that he wouldleave his library in trust for the benefit of the public.He died in 1968 and, in recognition of his greatcontribution to Irish life, he was accorded a statefuneral – the only private citizen ever to havereceived such an honour.

Chinese JadeThis exquisite 18th-century jade book,

inlaid with gold andentitled The Wisdomof Sutra, is a strikingexample of Beatty’seye for priceless Far

Eastern art.

Alfred Chester BeattyTop 10 Manuscripts

1 Paul’s Letter to theRomans c.AD 180–200(Western collection)

2 Illuminated initial H,c.1150 WalsinghamBible, (Westerncollection)

3 The Iranian King KayKavus Attempts to Fly toHeaven, AD 1480, TheBook of Kings (Islamiccollection)

4 A Compendium ofMilitary Arts, AD 1366(Islamic collection)

5 Qur’an, copied by Ibn al-Bawwab, AD 1001(Islamic collection)

6 The Story of Ying Ying,late 17th century (EastAsian collection)

7 The Bhagavadgita Ink,18th–19th centuries(East Asian collection)

8 Mandala of Mahamaya,“The Great Illusion”,18th–19th centuries(East Asian collection)

9 The Song of the JadeBowl, EmperorQianlong, AD 1745 (EastAsian collection)

0 Song of EverlastingSorrow, early 17thcentury (East Asiancollection)

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Temple Bar is filled

with cafés, pubs,

restaurants and bars,

most of them open

from breakfast until

after midnight.

People come into

Dublin especially for

the Saturday Food

Market, which starts

at 9:30am and runs

until late afternoon,

so arrive early for the

most choice.

• Map E4• City Hall: Lord EdwardSt; Open 10am–5:15pmMon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun;Adm for exhibition• Cultivate: 15 Essex StWest; Open daily (pm only)• Gallery of Photography:Meeting House Sq;Open Tue–Sat; Free• National PhotographicArchive: Meeting HouseSq; Open Mon–Fri; Free• Project Arts Centre: 39 Essex St East; OpenMon–Sat; Performancesnightly• Irish Film Institute: 6 Eustace St; Open daily

A lively enclave of cafés, bars and theatres, the Temple Bar area covers thenetwork of cobbled streets that stretch between Dame Street and the RiverLiffey, and from Fishamble Street to Fleet Street. Named after the 17th-century developer Sir William Temple, the area has gone full circle in itsfortunes but is now firmly established as the city’s most popular spot fortourists and locals alike. Known as Dublin’s West Bank, there is somethinggoing on here throughout the year, but summer and autumn are definitelythe high points. Summer brings “Diversions”, a free outdoor cultural event

that runs from May to September, while the DublinTheatre Festival runs for two weeks in the autumn,held in many of the venues around Temple Bar.

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City Hall

Temple Bar

Top 10 Features

1 City Hall2 Millennium Bridge3 Merchant’s Arch4 Meeting House Square5 Cultivate6 Cow’s Lane7 Gallery of Photography8 National Photographic

Archive9 Project Arts Centre0 Irish Film Institute

City HallBuilt by Thomas Cooley

between 1769 and 1779, thebuilding was originallydesigned to be the RoyalExchange, but politicalevents led to a change ofusage in the mid-19thcentury. Built of Portlandstone, with a magnificentRotunda entrance hall, it isan outstanding example ofNeo-Classical style (see p54).

Millennium BridgeOnly the second

pedestrian bridge to crossthe Liffey, its simple linesperfectly complement itsmore famous and moreornate companion, theHa’penny Bridge (see p56).Designed by architectsHowley Harrington, thebridge is intended toincrease links betweenshopping areas north andsouth of the Liffey.

Merchant’s ArchA formal entry point

to the area, the arch(below) dates from thedays when ships sailedright up the Liffey todock and trade here withthe local merchants.

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RegenerationSir William Templebought this land fordevelopment in the1600s and set aboutreclaiming the marsh-land to bring trade tothe centre. The areathrived for a while, butwith the developmentof the docks to the east,business began todecline. In the 1960straders made use of thecheap rent and the areatook on a Bohemian air.In the 1990s the govern-ment regeneratedTemple Bar, creating thethriving entity it is today.

Meeting HouseSquare

Named after a QuakerMeeting Hall, this is thecentre of Temple Bar. It isthe venue for concerts,outdoor film screenings,and the Saturday foodmarket (above). Cafétables, spilling out ontothe street from minuteinteriors, all add to theatmosphere.

Gallery ofPhotography

This bright, contemporaryspace runs excellent exhi-bitions by Irish and interna-tional photographers. Theshop stocks an impressiveselection of photo books.

NationalPhotographic

ArchiveThis archive houses morethan 300,000 photographsfrom the National Library.The changing exhibitionsrange from social andpolitical history, to land-scapes and postcards.

Project ArtsCentre

This modern art centre,begun in 1966 as anartist-led co-operative,has gained an internationalreputation for avant-gardetheatre, dance, music, filmand art (see p41).

Irish Film InstituteHousing the offices of

independent film organiz-ations, a lively bar and res-taurant, and two screens,the IFI was one of the firstmajor cultural projects inTemple Bar. The eclecticprogram focuses on cultand international film.

Cow’s LaneThis smart pedestrianstreet (right) has designerboutiques and chic coffee

bars. A Saturday markethere sells Irish design andfashion items. (In winter,stalls are in the church at

the end of the street.)

Plan of Temple Bar

CultivateTemple Bar, the site

of Ireland’s first urban“Green Building”, is aninnovative centre of eco-design and green lifestyle.Typical of this ethos isCultivate, a sustainableliving centre with a fairtrade shop, bookshopcafé and busy calendar ofevents. In April/May, theyhost the Convergencefestival with film, exhibits,theatre and talks byleading environmentalthinkers. A “green map”of Temple Bar is availableat www.sustainable.ie.

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Concerts are

regularly held both in

the main body of the

cathedral and in the

sparkling new crypt,

which is particularly

atmospheric.

Telephone for details.

• Christ Church Place• Map D4• 01-677 8099• www.cccdub.ie• Open 10am–5pm daily;Closed 26 Dec; Last adm30 mins before closing• Partial dis. access• Adm: cathedral, crypt& treasury €5.00donation expected. Nophotography in treasury• Dublinia: Synod Hall;01-679 4611;www.dublinia.ie; OpenApr–Sep: 10am–5pmdaily, Oct–Mar:11am–4pm Mon–Sat,10am–4:30pm Sun; Dis.access; Adm €5.75 (jointticket for Dublinia andcathedral €8.75)

The spectacularly imposing cathedral that we see today, towering over itssurroundings, is largely a result of 19th-century restoration. Dublin’s firstchurch, made of wood, was founded here in 1038 by Sitric Silkenbeard, thefirst Christian king of the Dublin Norsemen. In 1172, however, NormanRichard de Clare, known as Strongbow, demolished the first church andcommissioned his own stone version. The cathedral passed to the Protestantchurch during the Reformation and, together with St Patrick’s Cathedral (seepp22–3), has remained dedicated to the Church of Ireland. Over the last fewyears the huge crypt has been restored, with new floors and lighting.

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Façade

Christ Church Cathedral

Top 10 Features

1 Great Nave2 Strongbow Monument3 Medieval Lectern4 Crypt5 Chapel of St Laud6 Romanesque Doorway7 Choir8 Lord Mayor’s Pew9 Bridge to Synod Hall0 Lady Chapel

Great NaveThe 25-m (80-ft) high

nave (below) raises thespirits with its fine earlyGothic arches. Anexample of the structuraltroubles that have besetthe cathedral is visible onthe north side, where theoriginal 13th-century wallleans out by 50 cm (1.5ft). This was a result ofthe collapse of the southwall in 1562.

StrongbowMonument

The tomb of the infamousNorman conqueror of Ireland(above) is a 14th-centuryreplica and the effigy is notconsidered to be Strongbow,although it is possible thatthe fragment beside thetomb may be part of theoriginal. Strongbow’s remainsare buried in the cathedral.

Medieval LecternStanding on the left-

hand side of the nave infront of the pulpit, this finebrass lectern was handmadeduring the Middle Ages.There is an identical lecternsymmetrically positioned onthe south side, but the latteris a 19th-century copy of theoriginal.

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StrongbowIn the 12th century thechieftains DermotMacMurrough and RoryO’ Connor decided tolook to the English forhelp in trying to con-quer Leinster. Richardde Clare, nicknamedStrongbow, answeredthe call and arrived in1169 with his Anglo-Normans. He routedLeinster and conqueredDublin, then affirmedhis loyalty to King HenryII. It was the beginningof centuries of Englishhold over Irish land.

CryptThe vast crypt is

unusual in that it runs thelength of the building.Some pieces are original,but the mummified catand rat (above) have beenmoved upstairs.

Chapel of St LaudThis chapel, one of

three extending off thechoir, is named after the5th-century NormandyBishop of Coutances. Themost interesting piece isthe wall casket (below)containing the heart of StLaurence O’Toole, patronsaint of Dublin.

ChoirPositioned strate-

gically at the centre ofthe church, the Victorianwooden stalls are set outbehind the choir. TheArchbishop’s Throne isset in pride of place, withthe stalls for the canonsand choristers neatlyarranged alongside.

Lord Mayor’s PewGenerally known as

the Civic Pew, buthistorically belonging tothe Lord Mayor, it is keptin the north aisle, but ismoved to the front of thenave when required forceremonial use. Deco-rated with a carving ofthe city, there is also aslot for the civic mace.

Bridge to Synod Hall

This ornate Gothic bridgewas added during therebuilding of the cathe-dral in the 1870s. SynodHall is home to Dublinia,a well-presented re-creation of medievalDublin (see p56).

Lady Chapel One of the other

chapels opening off thecentral choir area is usedto celebrate the dailyEucharist and provides amore intimate settingthan the cathedral whennumbers are small.

Plan of Christ

Church Cathedral

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Romanesque Doorway

This doorway (right) is afine example of

12th-century Irishstonework. The carvingson the capitals depict a

musical troupe.

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Choral evensong is

held at 5:45pm

every day (3:15pm

on Sunday). Sung

Eucharist is at

11:15am on Sunday.

Services at

Christmas and

Easter can be very

busy. Early arrival is

advised.

• St Patrick’s Close,Dublin 2 • Map D5• 01-453 9472 • Open Mar–Oct:9am–5:15pm daily;Nov–Feb: 9am–5pmMon–Sat, 10am–3pmSun• Dis. access• Adm €4.00

St Patrick’s, the Protestant Church of Ireland’s national cathedral andcommonly known as the “People’s Cathedral”, stands on an early Christiansite where St Patrick is said to have baptized converts in a well in AD 450.Like Christ Church Cathedral (see pp20–21), the original structure was madeof wood and it was not until 1192, when Bishop John Comyn founded StPatrick’s, that it was rebuilt in stone. Archbishop Henry de Londresrestructured it again between 1220 and 1270 and raised its status to that ofcathedral. The building has seen its fair share ofpolitics: in 1649, during the Civil War, Cromwell’scavalry used it for stabling; not long after, Huguenotrefugees from France sought solace here.

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Façade

St Patrick’s Cathedral

Minot TowerBelieved to have been

built for defence purposes,the 43-m (140-ft), 14th-century Minot Tower (above)still looks out of kilter withthe rest of the cathedral.

NaveSt Patrick’s is the longest

medieval church in Irelandand the nave (right) reflectsthese immense proportions.The pillars are carved with anassortment of figures.

Top 10 Features

1 Minot Tower2 Nave3 Graves of Jonathan Swift and

Stella4 Boyle Monument5 Lady Chapel6 North Transept7 South Transept8 Choir9 South Aisle0 Wooden Door

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Jonathan SwiftJonathan Swift wasborn in Dublin in 1667and was educated atTrinity College (seepp8–9). In 1694 he tookholy orders and, after ayear as a curate, movedto England as tutor toEsther Johnson at MoorPark in Surrey. Estherwas to become thebeloved “Stella” of hiswritings. Despite areputation as a wit andpamphleteer, his eccles-iastical career was hisprimary concern and, in1713, Swift was appoin-ted dean of St Patrick’s.On his death in 1745, heleft a legacy of £8,000to build St Patrick’sHospital for the Insane.

Graves ofJonathan Swift

and StellaOne of the first ports ofcall for many visitors to

the cathedral are thegraves of Jonathan Swift

(see p34) and his belovedStella, positioned in the

nave beneath brasstablets (above right).

Boyle MonumentThe vast monument

for the eminent Boylefamily (below) is overrunwith painted figures ofthe children of RichardBoyle, Earl of Cork.

Lady ChapelAt the east end of

the church, this 13th-century building wasgiven over to the FrenchHuguenots who arrivedas refugees in the mid-17th century. They weregiven permission to wor-ship here by the Deanand Chapter, and did sofor almost 150 years.

North TranseptFlags of Irish Regi-

ments of the British Armyare hung in this area andserve to commemoratemore than 49,000Irishmen who died inWorld War I. In onecorner of this transeptstands Jonathan Swift’schair, table and pulpit.

South TranseptThis former Chapter

House boasts a beautifulstained-glass windowand, as with all areas ofthe cathedral, numerousmonuments. Particularlyinteresting is that ofArchbishop Marsh whichhas fine carvings byGrinling Gibbons.

ChoirSomewhat surpris-

ingly, the choir (centre) isadorned with swords,banners and helmetsabove the pews. Theserepresent the differentknights of St Patrick who,until 1869, underwenttheir services ofinvestiture in this chapel.Another memorialhonours Duke FrederickSchomberg, slain duringfighting at the Battle ofthe Boyne (see p30).

South AisleMemorials here

honour renowned IrishProtestants of the 20thcentury. Douglas Hyde,Ireland’s first presidentand founder of the GaelicLeague is aptly remem-bered in Irish.

Wooden DoorA row between two

15th-century earls, Kildareand Ormond, reachedstalemate when Ormondbarricaded himself in thechapter house. Kildarecut a hole in the door(below) and offered toshake hands. From thisincident came theexpression “chancingyour arm”.

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The bars on the fifth

level sell food as well

as Guinness.

Hold on to your

perspex drop of

Guinness given to

you at the entrance –

it doubles up as your

ticket and a means

to claim your free

pint at the end.

The area around the

Guinness Storehouse

is quite isolated, so

the Drop-on-Drop-Off

bus is a good option

for getting there

and back.

• St James’s Gate,Dublin 8 • Bus Nos. 51b, 78a,123• 01-408 4800 • www.guinness-storehouse.com • Open 9:30am–5pm,daily; Jul–Aug: 9:30am–9pm • Dis. access• Adm €13.50

Ask the majority of people what they most associate with Ireland, and thelikelihood is the answer will be Guinness. Together with whiskey, it is thenational drink, famous for its malty flavour and smooth, creamy head. ArthurGuinness founded this immensely successful business in 1759 from relativelyhumble beginnings but, nearly 250 years on, Guinness is the largest breweryin Europe. The site at St James’s Gate covers 64 acres and was unique forhaving its own water and electricity supply. From here, Guinness exports beerto more than 150 countries worldwide. This extraordinary exhibition covers allaspects of the production, with excellent displays and explanations, before awelcome free pint in one of the bars at the top of the building. D

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Brewery façade

Guinness Storehouse

Top 10 Exhibits

1 Ingredients2 Brewing Process3 Arthur Guinness’s Study4 History of Cooperage5 Transport Gallery6 Advertising 7 Audiovisual8 Guinness Abroad9 Guinness at Home0 Tasting

IngredientsThe tour logically begins

with an interactive displayabout the process of selec-ting the right ingredients(below). Barley, hops andyeast are displayed in hugebarrels and there is amagnified area to see theingredients close-up, accom-panied by a pungent aroma.

Brewing ProcessThis is the noisiest part

of the tour. As the machinesare mashing, boiling, fermen-ting, maturing and blending,visitors can watch, smell andhear the entire brewingprocess in action.

Arthur Guinness’sStudy

This area (below) detailsthe setting up of thebrewery, what Guinnesshoped to achieve andhow he went about it. A desk in the cornerholds genuine artifactsfrom his office.

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Arthur Guinness Arthur Guinness (1725–1803) first bought alease on a brewery inLeixlip in 1756. Threeyears later he gave thisto his brother when hesigned the lease for StJames’s Gate. Hemarried Olivia Whitmorein 1761, and 10 of their21 children lived toestablish a dynasty thathas expanded into manyactivities worldwide.

History ofCooperage

Cooperage is the processof making and storingcasks (above). Films showhow the coopers madethe old wooden containers– metal casks have beenused since the 1950s.

Transport GalleryThis display explains

all methods of transport-ing Guinness to suppliers,from the old horse andcart to the sophisticatedsystems now operatingworldwide.

AudiovisualThe legendary Irish

craíc – amusing tallstories told over a pint ofthe black stuff – isenjoyably illustrated inthis feel-good audiovisualexhibit (left).

Guinness AbroadFigures are given

that 10,000 glasses ofGuinness are drunk in151 countries every day,and a huge glass panelshows what a good timeeverybody is having.

Guinness at HomeIn this interactive

exhibit visitors areencouraged to writemessages about theirlove of Guinness.

TastingNow is the time most

visitors wait for – thefree pint. There is a choiceof three bars; the GravityBar (above) has magnifi-cent views over the city.

Plan of Guinness

Storehouse

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Advertising Here TV and film

advertising campaignsrun on multi-split screenswith the accompanyingmusic, together with adisplay of all Guinness-associated products andposters (below).

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An excellent café in

the basement of the

IMMA serves good

vegetarian and

organic dishes.

The hospital grounds

are vast, with lovely

views, so if the

weather is good they

are ideal for a picnic.

• Kilmainham Gaol:Inchicore Rd, Dublin 8;Map A4; 01-453 5984;www.heritageireland.ie;Open May–Sep: 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public hols;Oct–Apr: 9:30am–4pmMon–Sat, 10am–5pmSun & public hols; Adm€5.00• Kilmainham Hospital &IMMA: Royal Hospital,Military Rd, Dublin 8;Map A4; 01-612 9900;www.modernart.ie;Open 10am–5:30pmTue–Sat, noon–5:30pmSun; Dis. access; Free.Some rooms by guidedtour only: Jul–Sep,€2.00

Despite their communal name, these two sights could not be more contrasting,both in their appearance and history. The forbidding gaol was built in 1789,but the material used was sandstone which wept in bad weather, resulting indamp and grim conditions that adversely affected the health of the inmates.The jail closed in the 1920s and wasn’t touched again until it was restored asa museum in the 1960s. Kilmainham Hospital, how-ever, was built in the 1680s as one of Ireland’s firstClassical-style buildings – Sir William Robinson model-led the hospital on Les Invalides in Paris. It has beenhome of the Irish Museum of Modern Art since 1991.

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For more historic buildings in Dublin See pp32–3

Kilmainham Gaol façade

Kilmainham Gaol and Hospital

Top 10 Features

1 Exhibition2 West Wing3 Gaol Chapel4 East Wing5 Asgard6 Kilmainham Gate7 IMMA8 Gardens & Courtyard9 Great Hall0 Hospital Chapel

ExhibitionHoused in a modern hall

of the gaol, this exhibitionputs visitors in the rathergruesome mood for what isto come. On the groundfloor is a section on hangingtechniques, while upstairsdeals with the struggle forindependence (see p31).

West WingA fascinating if depres-

sing place (above), it doesn’ttake much to imagine thehorror of internment here.The guide tells of theconditions the prisonerswere subjected to – onehour of candlelight a night –and the types of hard labour.

Gaol ChapelThe most poignant

story related about thechapel (below) is thewedding here of JosephPlunkett and GraceGifford. They married onthe eve of Plunkett’s exe-cution, and were allowed10 minutes alonetogether before Plunkettwas taken out and shot.

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The History ofKilmainhamHospitalKilmainham’s RoyalHospital was builtbetween 1680 and 1686to the designs of SirWilliam Robinson, andis considered the mostimportant 17th-centurybuilding in Ireland. Itwas built for singleretired veterans. Thehospital became apolice barracks in 1922and fell into decline, butwas fortunately one ofthe first buildings tobenefit from Dublin’srestoration programmein the 1980s. Beautifullyrenovated, it reopenedin 1991 as the IMMA.

East WingA fine example of

the “Panoptical” layout(below), used in manyVictorian prisons. Theidea was to maximizelight but allow forconstant surveillance of the prisoners.

TourA tour covering Irish

history from 1796–1924takes in a children’sexercise yard, a Civil War yard, and theStonebreaker’s Yard, inwhich the leaders of the1916 uprising wereexecuted (see p31).

Kilmainham GateThis austere doorway

(below) is flanked by irongates and sets the moodfor a visit to the gaol. Along tree-lined avenuelinks the fine surround-ings of the Kilmainhamhospital to its muchbleaker neighbour.

IMMASince its move here

in 1991, the IrishMuseum of Modern Art (IMMA) (below) hasmade full use of thespace available. There isa regularly changing resi-dent collection so eventhe most regular visitor is likely to see somethingnew. Innovative contem-porary art features intouring exhibitions.

Gardens andCourtyard

The formal gardens (left)of the hospital weredesigned by EdwardPearce between 1710and 1720 to representthe crosses of St Andrewand St George. They arecurrently being restoredto their former glory.

Great HallThis grand room

served as the soldiers’dining room. The portraitsof monarchs and vice-roys, commissionedbetween 1690 and 1734,are the earliest survivingcollection of institutionalportraits in Ireland.

Hospital ChapelThe magnificent

ceiling here unfortunatelysuffered decay at the endof the 19th century andwhat can now be seen isa papier mâché replica ofthe original. JamesTabary, a Huguenotsettler, carved the altar,reredos and rails fromIrish oak in 1686.

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Ryans, just out of the

southeast gate in

Parkgate Street, is

one of the city’s

finest pubs both for

drink and food.

Phoenix Park is

not considered safe

after dark.

• Phoenix Park: ParkGate, Conyngham Rd;Train: Heuston; Open7am–11pm daily; Free• Visitor’s Centre: 01-6770095; Open Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–5pm Sat–Sun, mid-Mar–end Mar& Oct: 10am–5:30pmdaily, Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Partial dis.access; Adm €2.75• Zoo: 01-474 8900;www.dublinzoo.ie; OpenMar–Sep: 9:30am–6pmMon–Sat 10:30am–6pmSun, Oct–Feb: 9:30am–dusk Mon–Sat 10:30am–dusk Sun, last adm anhour before closing; Dis.access; Adm €12.50

Surprisingly for such a small city, Phoenix Park is the largest enclosed urbanpark in Europe, covering an area of more than 1,750 acres. The name has noconnection with the mythical bird but originates from the Gaelic Fionn Uiscewhich means “clear water” and refers to a spring that once existed here.Following the landscaping traditions of English parkland, complete withhundreds of deer, this is an idyllic place to escape from the bustling citycentre. However, there’s no shortage of things to do if you want to keep busy.At the weekends whole families spend the dayhere, indulging in a variety of activities fromdog-walking to jogging, golf practice, hurlingmatches, charity runs, cricket and polo.

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Phoenix Monument

Phoenix Park

Top 10 Features

1 Áras an Uachtaráin2 Phoenix Monument3 Dublin Zoo4 People’s Garden5 Papal Cross6 Wellington Monument7 Deerfield8 Visitors’ Centre9 Ashtown Castle0 Magazine Fort

Áras anUachtaráin

This fine Palladian man-sion (1751) by NathanielClements was the vice-regal lodge (centre). In1937 the lodge becamethe official home of theIrish president.

PhoenixMonument

Lord Chesterfield erectedthis monument in 1745,topped with what hasbeen described as a poorexcuse for a phoenix,looking more like an eaglethan the mythical bird.

Dublin ZooDublin Zoo (right)

dates back to 1830 – thesecond oldest in Europe.The latest addition is the33-acre “African Plains”,providing larger paddocksfor rhinoceros, giraffesand antelope (see p36).

People’s GardenClose to Park Gate and

the Garda Siochana (police)headquarters, this is the onlyformal area of the park.Decimus Burton landscapedthe area in the 1830s andthe effect is gentle andrestful, as the landscapedhedges and flowerbedsmerge with the wilderhillocks and ponds.

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The Developmentof Phoenix ParkIn the 16th century,before the Reformation,the land at Phoenix Parkbelonged to the KnightsHospitallers of St Johnof Jerusalem. When theDissolution of theMonasteries demandedthe confiscation of allchurch lands, it becamethe property of thecrown and the Duke ofOrmond decided toenclose the land toprovide a deer park forCharles II. In the mid-18th century muchmoney was spent ondeveloping Dublin City,including formalizing ofthe park. It was openedto the public in 1747.

WellingtonMonument

Designed by Sir WilliamSmirke in 1817, the moneygiven for its construction wasused up before itreached 30 m(100 ft). Workresumed in 1861but the monu-ment (right)never realizedits originaldesign.

DeerfieldThis beautiful 18th-

century house was oncethe home of the BritishChief Secretary forIreland, Lord Cavendish,who was murdered in1882 by an Irishnationalist. It is now theresidence of theAmerican ambassador.

Visitors’ CentreThe display here

shows the changing faceof Phoenix Park, from3500 BC to the presentday. It also features areconstruction of theKnockmaree cist gravefound in the park in 1838.On Saturday, free tourscan be taken to Áras anUachtaráin from here.

Ashtown CastleA visit to this elegant

17th-century tower houseis included in the ticketto the Visitors’ Centre. Itsclaim to fame is that itwas once owned by thefamily of John O’Connell,an ancestor of DanielO’Connell (see p31). Ithas cunning features suchas a “trip step” on thestaircase and a “murderhole” by the door.

Magazine FortThis former fort

(below) became the mainarms depot after indepen-dence, but it has beensecured and abandonedsince the IRA raid in 1939,when more than onemillion rounds of ammu-nition were stolen. It isnow sadly decaying.

Papal CrossThe simplicity of

the 27-m (90-ft) highstainless steel PapalCross (left) is part ofits beauty. It waserected on the spotwhere Pope John Paul IIcelebrated Mass in 1979,attended by more than athird of Ireland’spopulation (see p31). Map of Phoenix Park

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NCRGate

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CabraGate

ChapelizodGate

KnockmaroonGate

CastleknockGate

AshtownGate

IslandbridgeGate

Liffey

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Left Pope John Paul II delivers mass in Phoenix Park Right Battle of the Boyne

Moments in History

Stone tomb, Newgrange

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For historic buildings in Dublin See pp32–3

NewgrangeThe first settlers arrived in

Ireland from the Continentaround 4000 BC, bringing withthem farming skills and rudimen-tary tools which allowed them toestablish small communities. Themegalithic stone tomb of theNeolithic Age at Newgrange (seep71) is thought to date fromaround 3000 BC and is one of themost important passage gravesin Europe.

Celts ArrivePowerful tribes of warriors

became established in CentralEurope around 600 BC. Withtheir ability to produce ironweapons and implements, theCelts were able to progressacross the continent to Ireland.Earlier inhabitants remained, butthe Celts (or Gaels) imposed theirauthority, culture and language.

Christianity Comes to Ireland

Although the Romans neversettled in Ireland it was throughthem that Christianity reachedIrish shores. The first bishop was

appointed in AD 431 but it is StPatrick (see p38) who is creditedwith the conversion of the paganCelts and the establishment ofthe Church between 432 and 461.

Viking IrelandThe Vikings arrived in Ireland

in the 10th century and estab-lished their own communities. In1030 a wooden church was builtwhere Christ Church Cathedralnow stands (see pp20–21).

First Irish ParliamentBy the 1350s the Normans

had settled in Ireland and intro-duced the feudal system ofgovernment, led by a justiciarwho was head of the army, thechief judge and top administra-tor. He was helped in his workby a council of officials, andwould occasionally summon aparliament consisting of hiscouncil, bishops, abbots andfeudal lords. By the end of the14th century, representatives ofcounties and towns were part ofthe process known as the LowerHouse, or Commons.

Battle of the BoyneAfter his defeat by William of

Orange at the Battle of the Boynein 1690, James II fled to Franceleaving Ireland in the hands ofthe Protestant Ascendancy.These were English descendantsof Tudor and Stuart settlers. Thenative Irish suffered for morethan a century from the stringentpenal measures inflicted on them.

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Top 10 PoliticiansHenry GrattanGrattan (1746–1820)

entered Parliament in 1775and was a great champion ofthe Catholic cause.

Theobald Wolfe ToneTone (1763–98) has been

described both as the founderof Irish nationalism and as afrustrated imperialist.

Daniel O’ConnellThe greatest leader of

Catholic Ireland, O’Connell(1775–1847) was a constantagitator against the Union.

Charles Stewart ParnellLeader of the Irish Parlia-

mentary Party in 1880, Parnell(1846–91) secured Gladstone’sconversion to Home Rule.

Arthur GriffithGriffith (1871–1922)

launched Sinn Fein in 1906and was elected president ofthe Dáil in 1922.

Patrick PearsePearse (1879–1916) was

executed for delivering theProclamation of Independencein 1916.

Michael CollinsCommander-in-Chief of

the government forces in theCivil War, Collins (1890–1922)was shot dead in his nativeCounty Cork.

Eamon de ValeraValera (1882–1973) was

President of the Republic from1959–73. His political ideal wasa 32-county Gaelic republic.

Charles HaugheyPrime minister for various

terms from 1979 to 1992,Haughey (b.1925) remains acontroversial figure.

Mary RobinsonMary Robinson was

elected the first womanpresident in 1990.

Georgian High CultureMany of the most important

sights in the city, such asCustom House (see p61), werebuilt during the Georgian era.Artists and musicians visitedDublin from all over Europe –one of the highlights was thepremiere of Handel’s oratorio,The Messiah, in Dublin in 1741.

George Frederick Handel

The Great FamineThe potato famine dominated

19th-century Ireland. The cropfailed first in 1845, then again in1846–7. Over a million people diedof starvation or emigrated indesperation. By 1849 the popula-tion had decreased by two million.

The Easter RisingOn Easter Monday 1916

Patrick Pearse and others oppo-sed to British rule proclaimed theDeclaration of Independencefrom the General Post Office inO’Connell Street (see p61). Anuprising ensued and 15 insurgentswere executed. In May 1921 theAnglo-Irish treaty was signed,creating the Irish Free State.

Pope John Paul IIIn 1979 Pope John Paul II

visited Ireland, the high point ofwhich was his mass in PhoenixPark, attended by more than amillion people. The Papal Crossmarks the spot (see p29).

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Left Custom House Right City Hall

Historic Buildings

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Dublin CastleOriginally rectangular in

shape, Dublin Castle wasdesigned as a “keepless castle”,involving four circular cornertowers and, midway along thesouth wall, a fifth tower. How-ever, much of the medievalcastle was destroyed by fire. Theremodelling we see today beganat the turn of the 18th century(see pp14–17).

Custom HouseJames Gandon designed the

striking Custom House in 1791.There are four decorated façades,with finely balanced end pavil-ions and recessed Doric columnsfacing the River Liffey. Theexceptional statuary around thebuilding is the work of EdwardSmyth. A fire gutted the buildingin 1921 during the War of Inde-pendence, but it was restored inthe same decade. The latestsuperb restoration work wascarried out in the 1990s (see p61).

Four CourtsWest of Custom House is

James Gandon’s other magnifi-cent edifice. Designed six yearsearlier in 1785, the Four Courtshas a grand pedimented centrewith arcaded screens andtriumphal arches, topped with acolonnaded rotunda and a Neo-Classical dome. The five statuesby Edward Smyth on the centralblock represent Moses, Wisdom,Authority, Justice and Mercy(see p66).

City HallA competition was held in

1768 to select the designer ofwhat was then to be the RoyalExchange, and Thomas Cooley’splans were the preferred choice.One of Dublin’s most sophistica-ted Georgian buildings, it markedthe introduction to Ireland of theNeo-Classical style of architecture,with its lofty dome supported by12 columns and its 12 elegantcircular windows (see p54).

Leinster HouseDesigned by

Richard Cassels in1745, Leinster Houseis notable for its twocontrasting façades,one resembling atownhouse, the other acountry abode. Builtfor the Earl of Kildare,since 1921 it has beenthe seat of DáilEireann, the IrishParliament (see p56). Four Courts

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Powerscourt Townhouse

Marsh’s Library

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Bank of IrelandBuilt to accommodate the

Irish House of Lords and Houseof Commons, the building isalmost as magnificent as itsEnglish counterpart. Three archi-tects were involved in its creation:Sir Edward Lovett Pearcedesigned the Palladian centralblock, with temple and porticoflanked by colonnaded wings, in1729; James Gandon contributedthe portico to the east in 1785;and Richard Parkes added thewestern Ionic portico. In 1803,the building was taken over bythe Bank of Ireland (see p56).

Assembly Rooms, which nowcomprise a cinema and the GateTheatre (see p63): John Ensordesigned the rotunda in 1764,while the porches were added byRichard Johnston in 1784 andJames Gandon in 1786 (see p66).

Iveagh HouseThe first of architect Richard

Cassels’ notable Dublin houses,sadly the only part that nowremains of the original is thefirst-floor saloon. Sir BenjaminGuinness linked two houses intoone in the 1870s. His grandson,the second Earl of Iveagh, laterpresented the house to the IrishGovernment. d St Stephen’s Green• Map F6 • Closed to the public

Powerscourt TownhouseThis powerful looking

building with its grand entrancewas designed in 1771 by RobertMack as a home for the thirdViscount Powerscourt. The first-floor reception rooms, byMichael Stapleton, and theelegant hall can still beappreciated even though thehouse was imaginativelyconverted into a shoppingprecinct in 1981 (see p55).

Marsh’s LibraryDesigned by Sir William

Robinson of Kilmainham Hospitalfame (see pp26–7) in 1705, thisL-shaped library was built to housethe collection of ArchbishopNarcissus Marsh. The Gothic-style battlements and entrancedate from the 19th century, butthe oak bookcases, arranged inbays between the windows, areoriginal. d St Patrick’s Close • Map C5• Open 10am–12:45pm, 2–5pm Mon,Wed–Fri; 10:30am–12:45pm Sat • Adm

Rotunda HospitalPurpose-built as the first

maternity hospital in Europe,founded by Dr BartholomewMosse in 1745, the building wasdesigned by Richard Cassels. Anumber of other distinguishedarchitects had a hand in thecreation of the adjoining

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Left Shaw’s Birthplace Centre Oscar Wilde statue Right James Joyce statue

Dublin Writers

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James JoyceThe writer who most

prolifically put Dublin on theliterary map, Joyce (1882–1941)was born and educated in thecity. He met Nora Barnacle on 16 June 1904 and, although theydid not marry for 30 years, itbecame the date for events inhis epic work Ulysses, publishedin Paris in 1922. Dubliners (1914),Portrait of the Artist as a YoungMan (1916) and Finnegan’s Wake(1938) are among his other works.

William Butler YeatsWillliam Butler (1865–1939),

brother of the painter Jack BYeats, was born in Dublin. Hisfirst volume of poetry TheWanderings of Oisin and OtherPoems was well received andlater volumes confirmed hisstatus as a leading poet. His playOn Baile’s Strand was chosen forthe Abbey Theatre’s openingin 1904 (see p62).

George Bernard Shaw

Born in Dublin, Shaw(1856–1950) moved toEngland in 1876.Starting as a bookreviewer for the Pall Mall Gazette, he was to become a prolificplaywright; The Devil’sDisciple (1897) andPygmalion (1914) are justtwo of his works. Hereceived the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1925.

Jonathan SwiftSwift (1667–1745) was born

and educated in Dublin (see p23)and established a reputation as awit through his satirical works. AModest Proposal (1729), one ofhis most brilliant – if grim –satires, suggested feeding poorchildren to the rich. It is ironicthat his work, Gulliver’s Travels(1726), is a children’s classic.

Oscar WildeWilde (1854–1900) was born

at Westland Row, Dublin, andbecame a classics scholar atTrinity College (see pp8–9) andlater at Oxford. His highly popu-lar plays, full of acid wit, includeAn Ideal Husband (1895) and TheImportance of Being Earnest(1895). His imprisonment forhomosexual offences inspiredThe Ballad of Reading Gaol (1898),but he died, humiliated, in 1900.

Sean O’CaseyDublin-born

O’Casey (1880–1964)worked on the railwaysand became an activetrades unionist. Heachieved instant

success with TheShadow of a Gunman

(1923), set in the Dublinslums, followed by the

play Juno and the Paycockin 1924 and his best-knownwork The Plough and theStars in 1926. His later

plays never had the appealof the early works.George Bernard Shaw bust

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Top 10 ContemporaryIrish Writers

Seamus HeaneyIreland’s most prominent

poet, Heaney (b.1939) wonthe Nobel Prize for Literaturein 1995. North (1975) exploresthe Troubles in Northern Ireland.

William TrevorTrevor (b.1928) is a master

of the short story genre.

John BanvilleThe Literary Editor of the

Irish Times, Banville (b.1945)is also a novelist – The Bookof Evidence (1989) is one ofhis finest works.

John McGahernOne of McGahern’s

(b.1934) best novels isAmongst Women (1990).

Brian FrielPlaywright Friel’s (b.1929)

successes include Dancing atLughnasa (1990).

Roddy DoyleRenowned for his Barry-

town Trilogy about Dublin life,Doyle (b.1958) won the BookerPrize in 1994 for Paddy ClarkeHa Ha Ha! (1993).

Edna O’BrienThe Country Girls (1960) is

O’Brien’s (b.1930) most well-known novel to date.

Colm ToibinToibin (b.1955) was short-

listed for the 2000 BookerPrize with his novelBlackwater Lightship (1999).

Frank McCourtMcCourt’s (b.1930) evoca-

tive account of a poverty-stricken upbringing in Limerickin Angela’s Ashes (1996) wonhim the Pulitzer Prize

Tom MurphyA controversial playwright,

Murphy’s (b.1935) work TheWake (1998) had a long run atthe Gate Theatre (see p63).

Samuel BeckettFrench Huguenot by descent,

after a distinguished career atTrinity College, Beckett (1906–89)spent much of his life in France.The play Waiting for Godot(1952) made him an internationalname. He received the NobelPrize for Literature in 1969.

Edmund Burke Burke (1729–97) was born in

Dublin, went to Trinity Collegeand then to London to study law.A champion of individual libertyagainst the monarchy, his Reflec-tions on the Revolution in France(1790) established his reputation.

Elizabeth BowenAlthough born in Dublin,

Elizabeth Bowen (1899–1973)spent much of her childhood inCork. Her years in London areevoked in her novels, includingThe Heat of the Day (1949).

Patrick KavanaghKavanagh (1904–67), born in

Monaghan, went to London in1939 and began a career as apoet and journalist. His reputa-tion was established with a longand bitter poem of rural life, TheGreat Hunger (1942).

Samuel Beckett

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Left Dublin Zoo Right Dublinia

Children’s Attractions

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Fry Model RailwayA fascinating model railway

museum with locomotives andcoaches made by a retired rail-way engineer. d Malahide Castle,Malahide • Map N5 • Open Apr–Sep:daily; Oct: weekends only • Adm

KayakingChildren are attended by

qualified instructors who takethem kayaking in Dublin Bay. All equipment is supplied. d 5 Tritonville Ave, Sandymount • TrainSandymount • Open summer only • Adm

Lambert Puppet TheatreClassic pantomime fun;

performances range from fairytales for toddlers to Yeats for olderkids. d Clifton Lane, Monkstown • TrainSalthill • 01-280 0974 • Open Sat–Sun

Gotham CaféA fun fast-food outlet serving

burgers and fries for hungry littlevisitors. d S Anne St • Map F5 • 01-6795266 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Sat,11:30am–10:30pm Sun • €

The ArkWorkshops, art classes,

plays, exhibitions and concertsgeared towards children between4 and 14 years. Book ahead.d 11a Eustace St • Map E4 • 670 7788 •Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri • Adm

DubliniaMedieval Dublin is brought

to life, through exhibits such as afull-size reconstruction of a mer-chant’s house (see p56).

Dublin ZooApart from the usual exotic

animals there is a pet-caresection, play area, and a trainride (see pp28–9).

My MuseumAn exciting programme of

activities run by the NationalMuseum of Ireland, which rotatesbetween the city’s museums. d 677 7444 • Sun pm • www.museum.ie

Viking Splash TourA costumed driver gives a

lively tour on land in a militaryamphibious vehicle before splash-ing into the waters of the GrandCanal Quay. Passengers areencouraged to let out Vikingroars. d Bull Alley St • Map D5 • Openmid-Feb–Nov: daily • Adm

Wax MuseumSmall children enjoy “The

World of Fairytales andFantasy”; older children preferthe Chamber of Horrors andmodels of pop idols (see p66).

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Royal Dublin Horse ShowAlso known as the Kerrygold

Horse Show, this is one of theworld’s top international eques-trian events. Eleven competitionstake place over the five-dayevent drawing more than 20,000spectators. d Merrion Rd • TrainSandymount • Early Aug

Six Nations Rugby The oldest stadium in the

Six Nations Tournament holds48,000 irrepressible Irish sup-porters during the nation’s homegames. d 62 Lansdowne Rd • Lansdowne station • Jan–Mar

Leopardstown Christmas Racing Festival

Events occur year round atLeopardstown, but the four-dayChristmas Racing Festival is oneof the highlights of the Irishracing calendar. Built in 1888, thecourse offers some of the finesthospitality suites in racing. d Leopardstown • 26–29 Dec

Fairyhouse Racing FestivalEvery Easter the historic

Fairyhouse racing course hoststhe Powers Gold Label IrishGrand National. d Fairyhouse • Easter weekend

Dublin City MarathonBeginning on Aran Quay and

winding through the city to finishback where it started, the DublinMarathon attracts thousands ofparticipants and spectators. d Last Mon in Oct

Left Royal Dublin Horse Show Right Six Nations Rugby

Sporting EventsAll-Ireland Hurling FinalEurope’s oldest field sport

uses a hockey-style stick partlyto throw a ball down the pitch,but mostly to smack opposingplayers. The fastest field sportaround, expect lots of excite-ment and a bit of blood. d CrokePark • Train Heuston • Jul–Sep

All-Ireland Football FinalGaelic football is a mixture

of soccer and rugby, thoughpredating both games. The paceis similar to football, but allowsthe carrying of the ball, for ashort distance, and adds goalposts to avoid those 0-0 draws.d Croke Park • Train Heuston • Aug–Sep

Laytown RacesThe only horse race in the

world run on a beach. As the tiderolls out, the finishing posts riseand bookies open shop. d Laytown• Train Connolly • 10 Jun

Dublin to BelfastMaracycle

Every year, in the middle ofJune, thousands of keen cyclistsrace each other from Dublin toBelfast, then back again.

Colours Boat RaceCrowds flock to the Liffey as

Trinity and University CollegeDublin compete in the age-oldrivalry of a rowing race betweenO’Connell Bridge and SeanHeuston Bridge, The tinyHa’penny Bridge (see p56) fillswith spectators. d 1 Apr

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Above Details from a stained-glass window, depicting Irish legends

Irish Legends and Myths

Cuchulainn

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St PatrickPatrick, a 5th-century Roman

Briton, was captured by Irishraiders and taken into slavery inUlster. Escaping to France, hebecame a priest and returned toIreland to help convert the Irish.Extraordinary tales about himabound – he cured the sick, raisedthe dead, and rid Ireland of snakesby ringing his bell (see p30).

The Children of LirThe greatest of the Tuatha

de Danann, or fairy folk, was thesea-god Lir. His four belovedchildren were turned into swansby their jealous stepmotherAoife, who condemned them tolive forever in the waters off theUlster coast. Some 900 yearslater, St Patrick broke the spell,baptizing them as they died.

Punishment of theChildren of Tuireann

For murdering his father, the sungod Lugh demanded that thethree sons of Tuireann give himmagical objects and performdifficult feats. Their last task wasto make three shouts from theHill of Miochaoin; these shoutssummoned supernatural warriorswho killed them.

CuchulainnThe boy Setanta had

miraculous strength and lovedthe game of hurling. Invited to afeast by the legendary black-smith Culain, Setanta arrived lateand was met by the smith’s

ferocious guard dog. He killedthe hound with his hurley stickand offered himself as a guardinstead. He was renamedCuchulainn, “hound of Culain”.

Oisin in Tir na n’OgFinn’s son Oisin and Niamh,

daughter of sea-god Manannan,went together to Tir na n’Og,paradise of eternal youth. After300 years, homesick Oisinborrowed Niamh’s magic horseto revisit Ireland. His feet werenot to touch the ground, but hefell from the horse, instantlyaged 300 years, and died.

Deirdre and the Exile ofthe Sons of Usnach

King Conchubar loved Deirdre, hisharpist’s beautiful daughter. TheDruid Cathbad foretold she wouldbring disaster, so Conchubar kepther in solitude. But Deirdre lovedyoung Naoise, son of Usnach,

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Top 10 CelticTraditions

Celtic Crosses High, richly carved stone

crucifixes with a central circleare a feature of Celtic churches.

Celtic Design Distinctive traditional

interlocking patterns thatdecorate ancient Celticjewellery have alwaysremained popular in Ireland.

Language The Irish language,

spoken by about 1.5 millionpeople today, comes directlyfrom the ancient Celticinhabitants.

Céilí A get-together to drink,

sing, dance and stamp yourfeet to traditional music.

Hurling This robust Celtic game

requires hurleys (ash sticks), asliotar (a leather ball) andplenty of energy.

Musical InstrumentsUillean pipes, bodhráns

(drums), tin whistles andother Celtic instrumentsremain at the heart of Irishfolk music.

St Brigid’s Crosses Country people still weave

rushes into these crosses andhang them up to protectagainst evil spirits.

Fairy Trees An isolated tree in a field

is generally not cut downbecause it could be sacred.

Water Worship Sacred springs, fairy

wells, and holy water remaina large part of many Irishpeople’s religion.

Craic The lively, witty, relaxed

conviviality, gossip and talkthat makes life worth living.

who, with his brothers, took herto Scotland. After persuadingthem to return, Conchubar killedUsnach’s sons. Deirdre, grief-stricken, killed herself.

Cattle Raid of Cooley Connacht’s Queen Medb

(Maeve) raided Ulster to seizethe chief Daire’s famous bull. Allthe men of Ulster being under aspell, the boy Cuchulainn foughtalone, killing all Medb’s warriors.Medb retreated.

Pursuit of Diarmait and Grainne

Finn MacCoul asked King Cormacfor the hand of his daughterGrainne, but she eloped withFinn’s nephew Diarmait. For ayear and a day Diarmait andGrainne fled as enraged Finnpursued them around Ireland.

Finn and the Salmon of Knowledge

The first person to taste theSalmon of Knowledge wouldgain prophetic powers. When theyoung Finn MacCoul – hero ofcountless legends – visitedFinnegas, the old druid caughtthe fish. While it cooked, Finn’sthumb touched the salmon.Putting the thumb to his lips, hetasted the fish before Finnegas.

Destruction of Dinn RigKing Leary’s brother Covac

murdered Leary and his son atDinn Rig, then forced thegrandson to eat their hearts.Struck dumb until cured byPrincess Moriatha’s love, thegrandson – renamed Labraidh(“Speaks”) – grew up andreconquered Leary’s kingdom.He then invited Covac to stay inan iron house on Dinn Rig. Thedoor locked and a fire lit, allinside were roasted alive.

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Left Gaiety Theatre Right Gate Theatre

Performing Arts Venues

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National Concert HallFor quality classical music,

look no further: the NationalConcert Hall is Dublin’s premiervenue, hosting guests of thecalibre of the New York Philhar-monic. The building is also hometo Ireland’s National SymphonyOrchestra. Jazz, contemporaryand traditional Irish music arealso performed here, and thereare lunchtime concerts in summer.d Earlsford Terrace • Map F6 • Dis. access

The Abbey and Peacock Theatres

The Abbey is a legend. Foundedin the early 20th century by acircle of writers including thepoet WB Yeats, it gained renownat the cutting edge of Irishtheatre. Controversial works bynew writers such as SeanO’Casey and JM Synge werestaged here, the latter causingriots on opening night. Nowclassics, these are the mainstayof the Abbey. Experimental workis shown in the sister theatre,the Peacock (see p62).

The Gate TheatreSince its founding in 1928,

the Gate has been one of themost daring theatres in Europe,introducing Irish audiences toIbsen and Chekhov and producingOscar Wilde’s Salome while itwas banned in England. OrsonWelles and James Mason bothmade their acting debuts here.Go early for a pre-performancedrink in the cosy bar (see p63).

The Gaiety TheatreDublin’s oldest theatre dates

from 1871. The gilded auditoriumis an atmospheric backdrop for awide range of entertainment,but, as its name suggests, theGaiety leans more towardsmusic and comedy. d S King St •Map E5 • Dis. access

The Olympia TheatreOpened in 1879 as a music

hall, after years of rivalry withthe Gaiety the Olympia settleddown to staging a similar gamutof musicals and comedy. d DameSt • Map E4

Andrew’s Lane TheatreThis popular modern venue

opened in 1989 in a convertedwarehouse. In its two intimatespaces touring companiesperform drama and musical actsto a high standard. d 9–11 Andrew’sLane • Map E5

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Top 10 CulturalEvents

Dublin TheatreFestival

This two-week event show-cases a wealth of Irish talent.d 44 E Essex St • Map E3 •Late Sep–Oct

St Patrick’s DayCelebrations

A week-long series of eventssurrounds the parade on theday. d 17 Mar

Wexford Opera Festival

Performances of threedifferent operas at Wexford’sTheatre Royal, supported bydaytime fairs. d Map P5 • Oct

Galway InternationalArts Festival

Massive celebration of film,theatre, art, literature andmusic. d Map N2 • Jul–Aug

BloomsdayFans of James Joyce re-

enact his novel Ulysses, onthe day it is set. d 16 Jun

Dublin InternationalFilm Festival (DIFF)

The best of Irish and world-wide cinema. d Spring

Festival of Music inGreat Irish Houses

Chamber music events inmansions near Dublin. d Jun

Handel’s MessiahThe Messiah has been

sung every year since its firstperformance here in 1742. d St Patrick’s Cathedral •Map D5 • Easter & Christmas

Wicklow Gardens Festival

More than 40 private gardensopen to the public. d May–Jul

James Joyce Summer School

Seminars, tours and musicalevents. d Newman House, St Stephen’s Green • Map E6

Project Arts CentreBorn as a spin-off project to

the Gate, the Project is perhapsthe most vibrant centre ofperformance art in the city, withenthusiastic young companiesexploring innovative dance,music, drama and poetry. U2,Liam Neeson and Gabriel Byrnewere all rising stars here. d 39 EEssex St • Map E3 • Dis. access

Samuel Beckett CentreThe drama school of the

university that produced OscarWilde and Samuel Beckett is setin a wonderfully intimate theatrespace. Productions, often sparsein props, are rarely lacking intalent. d Trinity College • Map F4

Tivoli TheatreThis 500-seat former cinema

stages West End and Broadwaymusicals. The downstairs theatredoubles up as a rock venue atweekends. d 135–8 Francis St • MapC5 • Dis. access

Focus TheatreForget the mainstream: the

emphasis here is on strong newUS and European drama, whichhas earned it a place in Ireland’stheatrical nobility. d 6 PembrokePlace • Map H5 • Dis. access

Olympia Theatre

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Kehoe’sJust off Grafton Street, this

cosy and recently refurbishedpub has lost none of its originalcharacter. It’s usually busy, butthere’s a large snug to hide awayin, just beside the entrance.Close to Trinity College, it has agood mix of students and oldpub characters. d 9 S Anne St • F5

Ryans This beautifully preserved

pub has self-contained snugs –originally for “the ladies” – oneach side of the counter. Thedecor is Victorian in every detail,from the mahogany partitionsand sepia photographs to thebrass match lighters fixed to thecounter. Upstairs is a cosy res-taurant which has won severalawards. d Parkgate St • Train Heuston

Mulligan’sOnce a working-class drink-

ing man’s pub (there wereoriginally no chairs, since “realmen” should stand as they

drank), Mulligan’s has sinceattracted a mixed bag, includingformer US President John FKennedy. It is still stark, but cosynonetheless, and constantlybusy. For literature buffs, itfeatures in the writings of JamesJoyce. Perhaps the bestGuinness in Ireland: try a pintand cast your vote (see p58).

The Stag’s HeadBuilt in 1770, the Stag’s

Head was refurbished in theopulent Victorian style, resem-bling a mix between a churchand a mansion, with bottle-glasswindows, mirrors reaching up tothe high ceiling, a counter top-ped with Connemara marble,plus, of course, the scaryantlered namesake on the wall.James Joyce also drank here,and it has featured in manyfilms. A magnet for students, ittends to get lively. Good pubgrub; but note it’s closed onSundays. d 1 Dame Court, off DameSt • Map E4

Neary’sThis cosy

Edwardian-style pub,backing onto theGaiety Theatre (seep40), is frequented bytheatrical types,including, on occa-sion, Peter O’Toole.Writer Flann O’Brienused to have a tipplehere too. d 1 ChathamSt • Map E5Pub sign,The Stag’s Head

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The Long HallBacking onto Dublin Castle,

this is very much a locals’ pub,although many visitors come toexperience its evocative atmos-phere. The decor includeschandeliers and a pendulumclock more than 200 years old. d 51 S Great George’s St • Map D4

O’Donoghue’s Music and fun are the life-

blood of this pub, which fosteredthe popular balladiers, TheDubliners. Tap your feet on theLiscannor stone floor during aninformal music session, or, if thesun’s shining, have a drink in thelittle courtyard out back. d 15Merrion Row • Map F6 • Dis. access

Brazen HeadThis pub, in the heart of

Viking Dublin, is the oldest in thecity. The building dates from the1750s, but some believe therehas been a tavern on this sitesince before the Normaninvasion in 1172. The courtyard isa lovely spot for trying out oneof the best pints of Guinness inDublin and listening to traditionalmusic.d 20 Lower Bridge St • Map A3• Dis. access

Doheny and Nesbitt’sThis building feels its age of

130 years,although Ned Dohenyand Tom Nesbitt only set up thepub in the 1960s. Inside, a cosysnug and glass-panelledpartitions create a perfectatmosphere for the lawyers,politicians and journalists wholike to come here. d 5 LowerBaggot St • Map G6

The BaileyA watering hole and safe-

house for Irish rebels such asMichael Collins, as well asliterary figures such as BrendanBehan, the original building wasdemolished in the 1960s to makeway for today’s bright, airy bar.Dress is informal but stylish. d 2–3 Duke St • Map F4 • Dis. access

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The International BarYou’d be content if this was

just a watering hole – woodpanelling and a healthy traditionmake this one of the best drink-ing spots in town. Things geteven better on music nightswhen bands play blues and soulupstairs. Tuesday is a singer-songwriter night and hosts someof Dublin’s best talent. Comedyis on Thursdays (see p58).

Break for the BorderIf you tried to break for the

border in this chain bar, you’d notget very far – on a Friday orSaturday night the crowds’gravity is sure to hold you in.Even in a club this size there arestill queues and often standingroom only. But then this is still atop spot and considered by manythe place in town to be. d JohnsonPlace • Map E5

Club AnabelThis popular nightclub is

located at the Burlington Hoteland attracts an older businesscrowd eager to unwind. Thetourists from the Burlington addto the odd atmosphere, to makea club with many layers andcultures to appreciate. d UpperLeeson St • Map H5

The PoDA historic venue filled nightly

with young Dubliners dressed toimpress. “European Designer ofthe Year” Ron McCulloch plannedthe interior. The PoD’s VIP bar isone of the city’s most popularcelebrity haunts. Features all-starDJs on a regular basis. d OldHarcourt St Station, Harcourt St • Map E6

Lillie’s BordelloNot the place to chill out and

have a pint of the black stuff, butnothing about Lillie’s Bordello istraditional. You need to be atrend-setter to get through thedoor and celebrities frequent theprivate, reserved suites.Commoners compete to be seenand good music ties it together.d Adam Court, Grafton St • Map F4

Temple Bar Music CentreThis venue attracts the best

alternative rock bands andhomegrown talent to its stage.Cutting-edge DJs fill the floorsduring the regular club nights and,once a week, the Centre hosts asalsa night (beginners welcome).d Curved St, Temple Bar • Map E4

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The Sugar ClubA relaxed candlelit venue

where the crowd comes for thecocktail bar and performances –everything from casino nightsand salsa to the “next big thing”.d 8 Lower Leeson St • Map E5

Club MA Temple Bar institution, at

the Blooms Hotel. There’s a VIPlounge of some repute, greatmusic and an interesting laserlight system to add to the fun. d Anglesea St • Map E4

Rí-RáDuring the day, this bar is

the smart, yet fashionable Globe,serving soups and sandwiches.Things change at 11pm. Rí-Ráopens as a thronging nightclubwith a mixed gay/straight crowd.d 11 S Great George’s St • Map E4

Whelan’sIt looks like your average

pub, but walk through the bar tothe back and you’ll find one ofDublin’s most happening venues.d 25 Wexford St • Map E6

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Grafton StreetProbably the most famous

pedestrian thoroughfare inDublin, Grafton Street tradition-ally caters to up-market shoppers,with homegrown departmentstores such as Brown Thomas(see p57). Buskers offer a livelyatmosphere. Bewley’s, Dublin’sfamous tea house, has its mostpopular branch here (see p53).

Powerscourt TownhouseIrish designer labels and

antiques shops cluster aroundthe indoor courtyard of this 18th-century converted townhouse.Products range from handmadejigsaw puzzles to antique jewel-lery and Irish silver. The DesignCentre is upstairs, with the creamof Irish fashion. When you’ve hadenough, there are plenty ofcafés here too (see p55).

Henry StreetGrafton Street’s poor relation,

Henry Street is lively and buzzingalong its pedestrian route, whileMoore Street’s outdoor foodmarket adds colour to theproceedings. Shops and depart-ment stores here tend to bebetter value than those south ofthe river. Arnotts departmentstore is one of the mostattractive in the city. d Map E2

St Stephen’s GreenShopping Centre

This delicate masterpiece ofglass and light is a pleasantplace to shop, filled with mainlychain stores such as Benettonand Tie Rack. On the top floor isthe Dome restaurant, with greatviews of St Stephen’s Green. d StStephen’s Green • Map F6 • Dis. access

Francis StreetDublin is one of Europe’s

best cities for antiques, andFrancis Street and the surround-ing area are an antique-hunter’sdream, lined with deliciouslydusty shops. Beware: the attitudemay be relaxed, but the goodsdon’t come cheap. d Map C4

Jervis Street Shopping Centre

This large modern shoppingcentre contains shops sellingfood, household goods, fashionand sports gear. British chainssuch as Boots and Argos caterfor most consumer needs. d 1AJervis St • Map E3 • Dis. access

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Top 10 Food SellersAbbey Street MarketA mouthwatering display

of international favourites,from Mexican burritos toGreek salads. d Map F2

Temple Bar MarketThe sale of farmhouse

cheeses, organic vegetablesand similar is soundtracked bystreet musicians. Weekendsonly. d Meeting House Sq • Map E3

Moore Street MarketLast-chance bargains on

vegetables, flowers and otherproduce. d Map E2

Dunne & CrescenziSelling more than 100

Italian wines, fine olive oil and artisan products. d SFrederick St • Map F5

SheridansCheesemongers

The best in Irish farmhousecheese. d 11 S Anne St • Map F5

Thorntons ChocolatesBest choice of fine

chocolates in Dublin from thiswell-known chocolate chain.d 87 Grafton St • Map E5

Bewley’sBewley’s are Ireland’s

finest tea shops, though thecrowds often detract from theelegance. d 11–12 West-moreland St, Grafton St

Berry BrothersMore than 800 fine wines

to choose from here. d 4Harry St • Map E5

Terroirs-DonnybrookFine wines and gourmet

food sold in this elegant shop.d 103 Morehampton Rd • Bus No. 10

Avoca Food HallFoodstuffs from around

the world and Irish crafts.d 11–13 Suffolk St • Map D2

Blackrock Market A quick trip on the DART will

take you out to the seasidevillage of Blackrock where, atweekends, an 18th-centurytavern and courtyard house morethan 60 stalls selling second-hand books, clothes and bric-à-brac, as well as genuine antiques.d Main St, Blackrock • Dis. access

Liberty MarketIdeal for bargain-hunting,

this market sells mainly freshfood and domestic goods. It’sworth coming here just to soakup the atmosphere of one of theoldest areas of the city. d Meath &Thomas Sts • Map B4 • Thu–Sat

George’s Street ArcadeThis lovely redbrick market

has established shops on eitherside, with stalls down thecentre. Exotic fruits rub shoul-ders with New Age baubles,fortune-tellers and vintage cloth-ing. d S Great George’s St • Map E5

Westbury MallThis covered walkway with

boutiques and up-market cafés isa good place to escape a suddendownpour – all too common inDublin. d Balfe St • Map E5

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For a guide to price ranges See p59

Patrick GuilbaudGuilbaud’s philosophy is

“modern classic cuisine usingIrish produce in season”, but hedoes more than just dress uppotatoes. He uses Ireland’sbountiful fresh fish, meat andgame to create savoury Gallicdishes. The restaurant is set inone of the brick townhouses thatmake up the Merrion Hotel (seep128). Furnished in 18th-centurystyle, it makes a great setting forthis timeless cuisine. d 21 UpperMerrion St • Map G5 • 676 4192 • Dis.access • €€€€€

Rajdoot Tandoori“Rajdoot”translates as

“ambassador”, and this multi-award-winning restaurant nearGrafton Street has been a fineambassador for tandoori cuisinesince its establishment in 1966as the first such restaurant inEurope. With chefs regularly sentback to India to train, the food isauthentic north Indian, with avariety of inspired Moghlaipresentations. d 26–28 Clarendon St• Map E5 • 679 4280 • Closed Sun L • Dis. access • €€€

La StampaA “modern Irish” restaurant

with a Spanish name intriguescelebrities and local movers andshakers alike. The candlelittables, modern art and mirroreddining room help too. The food, acombination of European disheswith a subtle dash of exoticEastern flavours, keeps themcoming back. Book ahead – therestaurant serves more than1,800 meals a week and it maybe difficult to get your hands onone. d 35 Dawson St • Map E5 • 6778611 • Dis. access • €€€€

Roly’s BistroSlightly out of the city

centre, this lovely bistro servesdishes such as venison pie, in arelaxed and friendly atmosphere.7 Ballsbridge Terrace • Train LansdowneRoad • 668 2611 • Dis. access • €€€€

The Lobster PotA seafood restaurant set in a

redbrick terrace house, theservice and the cuisine aredelightfully old-fashioned. As thename suggests, the chef uses asmuch fresh Irish sea catch aspossible to produce favouritessuch as Kilmore crab and prawnbisque. d 9 Ballsbridge Terrace • TrainLansdowne Road • 668 0025 • €€€

Francesca’sA short walk from Temple

Bar, Grafton Street and DublinCastle, this sophisticatedrestaurant is part of the Brooksdesigner-boutique hotel (see

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the ambience and the dramaticdecor – the windows are twostories high. Winner of the BecksTaste of Temple Bar Award. d Clarence Hotel, 6–8 Wellington Quay • Map D4 • 670 9000 • Closed Sat & Sun L • Dis. access • €€€€

Mermaid CaféWithin sight of Dublin

Castle, this popular restauranthas all the elegance of an up-market establishment withoutany of the pretension. Simplicityis the keynote of the brightspace and wooden decor, butnot the cuisine. Enjoy the likesof confit of duck or pan-roastedWicklow venison, or try a specialfrom the chalkboard (see p59).

The Halo at the Morrison This warm, atmospheric

restaurant is in the chic newMorrison Hotel, on the northside of the Liffey (see p128). Thetrendy minimalist style anddramatic atrium setting ismirrored in the elegant Orientalfusion menu, which includesdelicious coconut sauce dishes,seafood, and sauces as spicy asyou dare. Dress is casual.Reservations recommended fordinner (see p67).

p129). The food is a wonderfullycreative take on traditional Irishingredients, such as Dublin Bayprawns and wild Irish smokedsalmon (see p59).

L’EcrivainFive minutes’ walk from St

Stephen’s Green, this extremelypopular award-winning restaurantcreates original masterpiecesfrom French-inspired dishes,accompanied by wines worthy ofthe food. Chef Derry Clarke andhis team use fresh Irishingredients to work the magic.Worth the price. Book ahead.d 190A Lower Baggot St • Map G6 • 6611919 • Closed Sat L, Sun • Dis. access • €€€€€

Tea Room at The Clarence

This beautiful hotel onthe banks of the Liffey,owned by the rockband U2 is, notsurprisingly, a celebrityand gossip-columnistmagnet (see p128). Ifyou come to celebrity-spot, you won’t bedisappointed by thefood either, which isinnovative in aninteresting rather thanpretentious way, as is

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Christ Church Cathedral

DUBLIN TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE SOUTHWEST OF THE CITY when, inprehistoric times, there was a dark pool (Dubb Linn) at the confluence

of the River Liffey and what was once the River Poddle. The area expandedduring the 18th century, when the cobbled streets of Temple Bar became acentre for merchants and craftsmen – interestingly reverting to similar use inthe 20th century. Prior to the founding of Trinity College in 1592, southeastDublin was relatively undeveloped. St Stephen’s Green wasn’t enclosed untilthe 1660s and it remained for private use until 1877. But from the 1850s thearea witnessed a boom that saw the construction of important public build-ings such as City Hall. Today, the south is the hub of thefashionable scene, with designer stores and fine restaurants.

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Trinity CollegeIreland’s premier institute of

education was founded in 1592by Queen Elizabeth I on the siteof an Augustinian monastery. AProtestant-only college at itsstart, Trinity did open its doors toCatholic students in 1793, but itwasn’t until the 1970s that theCatholic Church relaxed itsopposition to the college. Itsquadrangles are peaceful havens,and its priceless Book of Kells ahighlight (see pp8–9).

National Museum of Ireland

Only two of the museum’s threesights are south of the river: theNatural History Museum (seep56) and the branch on KildareStreet which examines Irisharchaeology and history. Thelatter’s 19th-century building isalmost as impressive as its col-lections, decorated with marbleand mosaics (see pp10–11).

National GalleryA superb new wing of the

gallery opened on Clare Street inJanuary 2002, vastly increasingthe space available for temporaryexhibitions and displays of thegallery’s permanent collection.The improved facilities alsoinclude a large shop, a café andrestaurant and lecture theatres(see pp12–13).

Dublin CastleBuilt into the city walls in

1204, the castle was Dublin’sgreatest stronghold, designed todefend the British-ruled cityagainst the native Irish. It was atthat time protected by rivers onboth sides, the Liffey to thenorth and the Poddle to thesouth. The castle was completelyreconstructed after a fire in 1684and was further refined duringthe Georgian period, from whichtime most of the ornate stateapartments date (see pp14–17).

Temple BarThis hugely popular area is

the heart of south Dublin andhas a seemingly limitless array ofcafés, restaurants and bars aswell as interesting little shopsand cultural centres. On thebanks of the Liffey, the term“bar” meant a riverside path. Itsbustling atmosphere and trendybusinesses, residents andclientele are the personificationof Dublin’s emergence in the1990s as one of Europe’s mostfashionable and popular cities(see pp18–19).

Temple Bar

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City of CultureDublin’s southside is theembodiment of the city’s

regeneration as a cultural hub forthe Millennium. Numerous namesassociated with style and glamourhave contributed to this trend: theIrish-born rock band U2 own oneof the city’s most stylish hotels,

the Clarence (see p128) theinternationally acclaimed fashion

designer John Rocha works out ofDublin, and even the iconic

songstress Marianne Faithfull hasmade the city her home.

Christ Church CathedralOne of the city’s two great

cathedrals, illustrating theimportance religion has alwaysplayed in Dublin life, ChristChurch was the first to be built,in 1038. Although nothing of theoriginal wooden church nowstands, there are plenty ofbeautiful medieval features anddecorations to appreciate,including floor tiles and stonecarvings. The “Treasures ofChrist Church” exhibition, housedin the 12th-century crypt, includesa gilt plate donated by William IIIin 1697 (see pp20–21).

St Patrick’s CathedralDublin’s “second” cathedral

and long-time rival to ChristChurch. Apart from the manymonuments and plaques com-memorating deceased dignitaries,and some fine architecturalfeatures, St Patrick’s mostinteresting association is withJonathan Swift. Appointed deanat the beginning of the 18thcentury, Swift carried out muchof his work from the cathedral.You can see his death mask,writing desk and chair in thenorth pulpit and the memorial tohimself and “Stella” lies justinside the entrance (see pp22–3).

City HallThomas Cooley built this

stately building between 1769and 1779. He had won thecommission as a result of acompetition, beating his better-known contemporary JamesGandon who designed the Four Courts and Custom House(see p56). Cooley made a finejob of City Hall, which wasoriginally built as the city’s RoyalExchange. City bureaucratslatterly used it for variouspurposes but, having undergoneextensive restoration, it is nowopen to the public. There is anexcellent permanent exhibition inthe reconstructed vaults entitled“The Story of the Capital”,covering 1,000 years of Dublin’sfascinating history (see p32). d Cork Hill • Map E4 • Open 10am–5:15pm Mon–Sat, 2–5pm Sun • Adm toexhibition

Grafton StreetConsidered to be the

premier shopping street on thesouth side of the Liffey, GraftonStreet is also a pedestrianizedvenue for street musicians,performers and flower-sellers.There is the usual eclectic mix ofhigh street shops, and ugly neonsigns clash with the more

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Breakfast in style atBewley’s Oriental Café

(see p59) then spend thefirst half of the morningexploring the shops onGrafton Street and inPowerscourt Townhouse

and soaking up theatmosphere of the streetentertainers. Once thecrowds move in, continuedown to College Greenand walk under the archinto Trinity College (seepp8–9) to relax in thegrounds. On leaving Trinity,head down Dame Streetto Temple Bar (see pp18–19) and enjoy the manyshops and galleries here.

For lunch, press on to LeoBurdock’s, the city’s oldestfish-and-chip shop (2Werburgh St • €). It’s take-away only so make forChrist Church Cathedral

(see pp20–21) and sit andadmire its exterior whileeating. Then wander insideto view the restored cryptand treasury.

After lunch, retrace yoursteps to Dublin Castle

(see pp14–17) for a tour ofthe state apartments anda visit to the ChesterBeatty Library. A cup ofeastern-flavoured coffeeand exotic cake in the caféhere will set you up foryour final stretch of theday. Walk down Dame andNassau streets to ClareStreet and the newlyopened Millennium Wingof the National Gallery

(see pp12–13).

Finally, to unwind (albeiton rather a hard chair),check out an eveningconcert at St Patrick’s

Cathedral (see pp22–3).

A Day Exploring theSouthside

Morning

Afternoon

classical features of such shop-fronts as Marks & Spencer. Thestreet runs south from CollegeGreen, marked by the statue ofMolly Malone (irreverentlyknown as “the tart with thecart”), opening out onto StStephen’s Green at the southernend. Brown Thomas (see p57) isone of the street’s famous high-class department stores andBewley’s Oriental Café, with ashop at the front sellingtraditional Irish foodstuffs, isanother popular landmark (seep59). d Map E5

Powerscourt TownhouseBuilt in the 18th century for

Viscount Powerscourt, this finebuilding was converted into ashopping precinct in 1981. Themain, grand entrance opens intoa fine hall and staircase. TheGeorgian Room on the first floor,now turned into a shop similar tothe other reception rooms, hasexquisite plasterwork created byMichael Stapleton. There is avariety of stores here, includingjewellery designers, trendyboutiques, craft outlets, coffeespecialists and greengrocers.When you have exhausted yourshopping cravings, there areplenty of places to eat and drink.d S William St • Map E4

56

Best of the RestLeinster HouseThis 18th-century home to

the parliamentary chambers hastwo façades designed to reflecttheir views, the townhousefaçade facing Kildare Street andthe country house side lookingon to Merrion Square. d Kildare St• Map G5 • Open by appt only

Merrion SquareOne of the largest and

grandest of Dublin’s Georgiansquares, lined with statelybuildings. Oscar Wilde (see p34)is one of many illustrious pastresidents of the square. d Map G5

Iveagh GardensThese little-known gardens

are a lovely place to relax besidethe rose bushes. d Map E6

Shaw’s BirthplaceThe family home of

playwright George Bernard Shaw(see p34), where he lived untilthe age of 20, gives a greatinsight into Victorian domesticlife. d 33 Synge St • Bus Nos. 16, 19, 122• Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,11am–5pm Sun; Closed 1–2pm • Adm

DubliniaEntered via Christ Church

Cathedral (see pp20–21), thisexhibition uses audio-visuals torecreate medieval Dublin. d StMichael’s Hill • Map C4 • Open Apr–Sep:10am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar: 11am–4pmMon–Sat, 10am–4:30pm Sun • Adm

Ha’Penny BridgeBuilt in 1816 to link the north

and south sides of the Liffey, ahalfpenny toll was once chargedto cross it. d Map E3

Government BuildingsOriginally the Royal College

of Science, these impressivebuildings were quickly taken overby the government after indepen-dence in 1922. d Upper Merrion St • Map G5 • Open Sat tours only • Adm

Mansion HouseDesigned in 1710 for aristo-

crat Joshua Dawson, this hasbeen the residence of the city’sLord Mayor since 1715. d DawsonSt • Map F5 • Closed to the public

Bank of IrelandDublin’s first Palladian-style

building, built for the Irish Parlia-ment in 1739, is beautifully flood-lit at night. d College Green • Map F4• Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri • Free

Natural History MuseumStuffed animals and skeletons

illustrate the natural world throughthe ages. d Merrion St • Map G5 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 2–5pm Sun • Free • Dis. access ground floor

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Celtic NoteThis small shop specializes

in Irish music records and CDs; itis difficult to pass by withoutbeing lured in by the Celtic tuneswafting into the street. d 12Nassau St • Map E5

Avoca HandweaversFor those who don’t have a

chance to visit Avoca inPowerscourt (see p75), this shopis a satisfactory alternative, withits range of goods and clothes.Excellent food section, and arestaurant on the top floor. d11–13 Suffolk St • Map E5

JJ Fox LtdA Dublin institution, JJ Fox’s

cigarette and cigar emporium isdefinitely a place for connois-seurs. Specializes in Cuban andother fine cigars, and a widerange of smoking accessories. d 119 Grafton St • Map E5

Kevin & HowlinA traditional shop selling

everything tweedy for men andwomen with conservative tastes,including the famous Donegaltweed. Wonderful old-fashionedservice too. d 31 Nassau St • Map E5

Celtic Whiskey ShopThis cosy shop offers a

dazzling array of local Irishwhiskeys in addition, of course,to the more famous brands. Theservice is as warm as a nip ofthe uisce beatha (water of life).d 28 Dawson St • Map F5

Brown ThomasThe smartest department

store in town. A couple of floorsof designer labels give thefashionistas plenty of scope, andthere’s also a great glass andchina department featuring topIrish designs. d Grafton St • Map E5

Kilkenny DesignThe best of Irish contem-

porary design for both men andwomen. Their own-label clothesare every bit as good as thedesigners they stock, and theprices are reasonable. Pottery,lights and glass objects are alsoon sale. d 5–6 Nassau St • Map E5

Hodges FiggisIreland’s answer to

Waterstone’s, a branch of whichis opposite. Floors full of bookscovering all subjects and verygood bargain offers available.Excellent children’s section too.d 56–8 Dawson St • Map F5

House of IrelandSomewhat geared towards

the tourist but nonetheless withan interesting range of Irish-madeitems, predominantly clothes,gifts and Waterford Crystal (seep83). d Nassau St • Map E5

Whichcraft GalleryExcellent gallery shop with

highly original pieces of appliedarts and crafts by over 350 Irishdesigners: from furniture andwall hangings to ceramics andjewellery. d Cow’s Lane • Map D4

Southside Shops

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For tips on shopping in Dublin See p125

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Pubs and BarsBrendan Behan used to drinkhere so it’s a stop-off for apopular Literary Pub Crawl. d 3 Harry St • Map E5

Davy Byrne’sA friendly pub immortalized

by James Joyce in his bookUlysses. Seafood and traditionalIrish fare accompany the drink. d 21 Duke St • Map F5

Oliver St John Gogarty’sThis is both bar and

restaurant, extremely popularwith tourists for its centrallocation in the middle of TempleBar and more particularly for itstraditional Irish food and music.d 57 Fleet St • Map E4

MulligansPopular traditional old pub

and a regular haunt of journalistsand other print workers fromnearby Fleet Street. Famous asthe home of “the best Guinnessin Dublin”. d 8 Poolbeg St • Map F3

O’NeillsThe exterior of this pub is

authentic and old-fashioned,while inside there are severaldifferent bar areas offering avariety of experiences andclientele. d 2 Suffolk St • Map E4

SamSaraChic and very laid-back

looking bar with rattan chairs andnatural fabrics. Plenty of spacebetween tables too – rare inDublin. d Dawson St • Map E5

The PorterhouseVery popular with tourists

and locals, who all come tosample the wide range ofdraught beers from this micro-brewery. It can becomeincredibly crowded so if you’redying of thirst this may not bethe quickest place to quench it.d 16 Parliament St • Map C4

The OdeonA smart bar with plenty of

space to sit, and the largewindows onto the street makethe place light and airy. The feelis sophisticated but the atmos-phere remains relaxed. d 57Harcourt St • Map E6

International BarPopular with writers and

musicians. The evenings of livemusic are exceptionally good(see p44) and well-attended. d 23 Wicklow St • Map E4

Café en SeineRecently reopened after a

complete revamp, this is atrendy place in a central location.It attracts a regular young crowdkeen on people-watching, as wellas the after-workers. A goodalternative to the traditionalDublin pub. d 40 Dawson St • Map F5

McDaidsThis pub offers literary

tradition and an authentic old-style Dublin drinking experience,with stained-glass windows andold wooden interior. The writer

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For Dublin’s Top 10 Pubs See pp42–3

59

Francesca’sThis hotel restaurant (see

p129) specializes in modern Irishdishes. d Brooks Hotel, 59–62 Drury St• Map E5 • 01-670 4000 • €€€

DishThis small restaurant, with

wooden floors and gilt-framedmirrors, serves Mediterraneandishes cooked to perfection. d 146 Uppr Leeson St • Off map • 01-664 2135 • €€€

Pasta FrescaGlass-fronted Italian with

fresh pasta, pizzas and otherdishes. d 3 Chatham St • Map E5• 01-679 2402 • €€€

Mermaid CaféA designer-style restaurant

with contemporary furnishingsand imaginative food. d 69–70Dame St • Map E4 • 01-670 8236. • €€€

Yamamori NoodlesExcellent Japanese cuisine.

Soups, noodles and sushi ingenerous proportions. d 71–72 S Great George’s St • Map E4 • 01-4755001 • €€

Jacob’s LadderA very civilized place for

lunch or dinner overlooking TrinityCollege (see pp8–9). The food isa mixture of classic Irish andFrench. d 4 Nassau St • Map F4 • 01-670 3865 • €€€€

MAOIn light, bright surroundings

with minimalist decor, thisinformal Asian restaurant pridesitself on efficient service anddelicious food. d 2–3 Chatham Row • Map E5 • 01-670 4899 • €€

Bewley’s Oriental CaféRight in the centre of

Grafton Street (see p54), this isone of two branches of Bewley’sin the city. The building alone isworth the visit, with stained-glass windows and authenticatmosphere. d 78 Grafton St • MapE5 • 01-677 6761 • €

Botticelli Genuine Italian run by

Italians. The simple menu has allthe old favourites – a good,reasonably priced place for lunchor dinner. d 3 Temple Bar • Map E4 • 01-672 7289 • €€

Brownes BrasserieThe Brasserie is an informal

name for the smart restaurantattached to this townhousehotel. Right on St Stephen’sGreen and close to GraftonStreet, it is convenient and thefood excellent. d 22 St Stephen’sGreen • Map F6 • 01-638 3939 • €€€€

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Above Mermaid Café

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

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Daniel O’Connell monument

WHEN DUBLIN WAS DEVELOPED IN THE 18TH CENTURY, plans for thenorth side of the River Liffey included a range of elegant terraces and

squares designed to attract the city’s élite. A downturn in the economy leftthe grand plan incomplete, although O’Connell Street and Parnell andMountjoy Squares remain evidence of what might have been. The area boastssome of the city’s most beautiful buildings, such as the Custom House andthe Four Courts; three theatres, the Abbey, Peacock and the Gate, producedrama of worldwide acclaim; and the city’s great literary tradition is celebratedin the Dublin Writers’ Museum and James Joyce CulturalCentre. Although not as self-consciously stylish as theSouthside, development plans are trying to rectify this withthe revamp of areas such as Smithfield market (see p66).

North of the Liffey

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O’Connell Street

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Parnell SquareThe credit for this lovely

Georgian square goes to SirBenjamin Mosse, who foundedthe Rotunda Hospital here (seep66). It was considered one ofDublin’s smartest addresses inthe 1760s, then its fortunesdeclined, but it remains home tosome fine literary museums andart galleries. d Map E1

O’Connell StreetOne of the widest streets in

Europe, O’Connell Street wasdesigned by Luke Gardiner in the1740s and was once lined withClassical buildings. Sadly, manyof these were destroyed duringthe Easter Rising (see p31) andthe street has lost the statelyappearance of earlier times, butone of its remaining charms is itsstatues, the most imposing beingthat of Daniel O’Connell, nearO’Connell Bridge. d Map E2

Custom HouseThis magnificent building

dominates the northside river-bank. Designed by JamesGandon, the 114 m (375 ft) longfaçade is flanked by pavilionedarcades adorned with the Irishcoats of arms. The 14 headsdecorating the building represent

Ireland’s rivers. Restored in1991, the building is now used as government offices. d CustomHouse Quay • Map G2 • Open mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–12:30pm Mon–Fri, 2–5pmSat–Sun; Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–12:30pmWed–Fri, 2–5pm Sun • Adm

Hugh Lane MunicipalGallery of Modern Art

Art-lover Hugh Lane spent hislife collecting important art, andtoday the permanent collectionincludes exceptional 20th-century work by Irish and Euro-pean artists, including Manet andDegas. A new addition is theEnglish painter Francis Bacon’sLondon studio. d Charlemont House,Parnell Sq North • Map E1 • Open9:30am– 6pm Tue–Thu, 9:30am–5pmFri–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun • Adm for studio

Custom House

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Chapter One Restaurant’s theatre menu allows you to have a firstand main course pre-performance and then return for dessert.

Nelson’s ColumnIn the 1880s a controversial 50-m

(164-ft) column topped with astatue of Nelson was erected in

O’Connell Street. Severalattempts were made over theyears to destroy this symbol of

British imperialism until, in 1966,a bomb damaged it so badly that

it had to be dismantled.

James Joyce Cultural Centre

James Joyce (see p34) spentmuch of his early life living to thenorth of the Liffey so it is afitting area to house a museumdedicated to the Irish writer. Thehouse, built in 1784, was leasedat the turn of the 20th centuryby Denis J Maginnis, who makesseveral appearances in Joyce’sepic work Ulysses. There is afascinating display of the bio-graphical details of 50 of the 300characters from Ulysses basedon real Dubliners. d 35 N GreatGeorge’s St • Map F1 • Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 12:30–5pm Sun • Adm

Dublin Writers’ MuseumA mixture of faded parch-

ments and a collection of por-traits make up this original littlemuseum. The Georgian propor-tions of the house are seen at

their best on the upper floors,with a grand Gallery of Writers.Downstairs, a taped commen-tary takes you through Irishliterary history, accompanied byphotographs, correspondenceand first edition works. d 18Parnell Sq North • Map E1 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun • Adm

Abbey and Peacock Theatres

The Irish National Theatre wasfounded at the Abbey Theatre(see p40) by the Gaelic RevivalMovement led by Lady AugustaGregory and WB Yeats (see p34)and first opened its doors in1904. From the outset it had aradical reputation, putting onrevolutionary plays such as SeanO’Casey’s The Plough and theStars. The theatre then went intodecline, before being gutted byfire in 1951. It reopened in 1966as the Abbey and PeacockTheatres. The work performed atthe Peacock is more experimental,while the Abbey stages conven-tional productions and newworks. d 26 Lower Abbey St • Map F2

General Post OfficeDesigned in 1814 in Neo-

Classical style by Francis John-ston, the GPO is one of the

city’s most imposingbuildings. It was thecentre of the abortedEaster Rising in 1916and the scars ofgunfire can still beseen on the Ionicportico. The history ofthis event can be seenin a sequence ofpaintings in the foyerby Irish artist NormanTeeling. d O’Connell St • Map E2 • Open 8am–8pmMon–Sat • Dis. access •FreeDublin Writers’ Museum

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Following pages: Ha’Penny Bridge

For an unusual breakfasthead for the Winding

Stair Bookshop (see p67)café, then browse itswonderful second-handstock. Next, aim forO’Connell Street (seep61) and the GPO, whereyou can post your cardsand view the historic bulletmarks, and up to the Gate

Theatre to book tickets forthe evening’s performance.

Be at the Hugh Lane

Municipal Gallery of

Modern Art (see p61) by10am to have time to viewthe collection, then walkdown to the Dublin

Writers’ Museum. Havelunch in the café beforeenjoying the literaryartifacts. As you leave themuseum, go downstairs toChapter One Restaurant

(see p67) and book a tablefor dinner.

After lunch, walk aroundthe corner to the James

Joyce Cultural Centre,then retrace your steps tothe west side of Parnell

Square (see p61) and theRotunda Hospital (seep66) to have a look at theBaroque chapel.

For a bit of retail therapy,head for Henry Street

(see p46), one of the city’smain shopping areas.Continue down St Mary’sLane and up Bow Streetto the Old Jameson

Distillery for a tour andtot of whiskey.

Walk along the river pastthe floodlit Custom

House (see p61) to enjoya civilized pre-theatre drinkat The Gresham hotel(see p129).

A Day’s Stroll Aroundthe Northside

Morning

Afternoon

Old Jameson DistilleryThe Old Jameson Distillery

now exists purely as a museum,but whiskey was first made herein the 1780s and is as much apart of the Irish culture asGuinness (see pp24–5). The tourgoes through the entire processof production, from grain deliveryto bottling. At the end of the tourthere is a whiskey tasting. Theformer distillery chimney is nowa 67-m (220-ft) high observationplatform with outstanding cityviews. d Bow St • Map B3 • Open9:30am–6pm daily • Dis. access • Adm

Gate TheatreOriginally known as The

Assembly Rooms when com-pleted in 1786, the building,designed by the German archi-tect Richard Cassels, was con-verted into the Gate Theatre bythe actors Hilton Edwards andMícheál MacLiammóir in 1928. Itsoon established a reputation forhigh-class European productions,rivalling the Abbey, which con-centrated on Irish plays. TheGate has maintained its standingas a venue for new plays butalso puts on excellent produc-tions of international and Irishclassics. d Cavendish Row, Parnell SqEast • Map E1 • Dis. access

Old Jameson Distillery

66

Best of the RestKings InnsDesigned by James Gandon

in 1795 as a home for barristers.d Henrietta St, Constitution Hill • Map C1• Closed to the public

SmithfieldThis cobbled area, home to

horse fairs on the first Sunday ofthe month, is also used forconcerts. d Map B3

St Mary’s Abbey Founded in 1139. All that

remains of the abbey is the vaul-ted chapterhouse. d MeetinghouseLane • Map D3 • Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:10am–5pm Wed & Sun • Free tours

St Michan’s ChurchThe attraction at this 11th-

century church is the macabremummified bodies. d Church St • Map C3 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–12:45pm, 2–4:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–12:45pm Sat; Nov–Mar: 12:30–3:30pmMon–Fri, 10am–12:45pm Sat • Adm

GAA MuseumThe Gaelic Athletic Associa-

tion offers an insight into Irishsports. d Croke Park • DrumcondraStation • Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,noon–5pm Sun • Adm

Garden of RemembranceOpened by Eamon de Valera

in 1966 on the 50th anniversaryof the Easter Rising (see p31),this peaceful park commemoratesall those who died in the fight forIrish Freedom. d Parnell Sq • Map E1• Open dawn–dusk • Free

Rotunda HospitalDesigned by Richard Cassels,

this was the first purpose-builtmaternity hospital in Europewhen it opened in 1745. Inside isa beautiful Baroque chapel. d Parnell Sq • Map E1

St Mary’s Pro CathedralCatholic Dublin has not had

its own cathedral since theReformation but St Mary’s hasbeen playing the part since 1825.It is home to the Palestrina choir,who sing the Sunday morningservice. d Marlborough St • Map F2 • Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily • Free

Four CourtsThis James Gandon master-

piece is a majestic blend ofCorinthian columns, copperlantern dome, arcades andarches. d Inns Quay • Map C3 • Open10am–5pm when court is sitting • Adm

National Wax MuseumGeared more towards child-

ren than adults, with a Chamberof Horrors and a Wall of Mirrorsas well as 300 wax exhibits (seep36). d Granby Row, Parnell Sq • MapD1 • Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,noon–5:30pm Sun • Adm

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ClerysThe vaulted tearooms of this

department store serve a lunchmenu of salads, soup and sand-wiches, but afternoon tea is theirspeciality. d O’Connell St • Map F2 • 01-878 6000 • Closed D • €

Bangkok CaféNo prizes for decor but the

atmosphere is informal and thefood always good. d 106 Parnell St • Map F1 • 01-878 6618 • €

Epicurean Food HallInternational food emporium

with everything from kebabs toFrench cuisine. d Middle Abbey St •Map E3 • Open 9am–9pm • €

Dublin Writers’ Museum Café

At the back of the museum (seep62) this cheerful café has fillingdishes as well as lighter snacks.d Parnell Sq • Map E1 • 01-873 2266 • Closed D • €

Gresham HotelThis grand hotel (see p128)

offers a fine international menu,but head here for a particularlygood afternoon tea. d O’Connell St • Map F2 • 01-874 6881 • Dis. access • €€€

Halo at The MorrisonMinimalist chic is the form

here – the hotel (see p128) andrestaurant were designed by thefashion supremo John Rocha.Modern European food with anAsian influence is put togetherwith predominantly organicingredients. d Ormond Quay • MapE3 • 01-887 2421• Dis. access • €€€€

Chapter OneWarm colours, comfortable

seating and courteous serviceset the tone. Excellent “theatre”dinner (see p63) and Irish andFrench cuisine. d 18–19 Parnell Sq • Map E1 • 01-873 2266 • €€€€

Chief O’NeillsThis multilevelled open-plan

eating and drinking place opensonto Smithfield’s cobbled square.Good bar food. d Smithfield • MapB3 • 01-817 3838 • €€€

101 Talbot StreetJust around the corner from

the Abbey Theatre (see p62).There’s a choice of the mainrestaurant or the simpler PastaBar. d 101–102 Talbot St • Map F2 • 01-874 5011 • €€

Winding Stair BookshopThe café of this great

second-hand bookshop is anunpretentious place with sometables overlooking the Liffey.Wholesome soup, sandwiches,salads and cakes. d 40 LowerOrmond Quay • Map E3 • 01-873 3292 •Closed D • €

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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

vv

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68

THE AREA AROUND DUBLIN’S CITY CENTRE IS RICH WITH ATTRACTIONS,from stunning country estates – survivors of the Georgian heyday – to

ancient Celtic remains and some spectacular scenery and walks, both inman-made landscaped surroundings or wildernatural settings. As in days gone by, many ofIreland’s wealthy and well known choose to livein Dublin County’s peaceful villages, benefitingfrom their close proximity to the capital whileenjoying a more traditional way of life. The 10sights selected here are less than an hour fromDublin as long as the journeys are undertakenoutside the rush hours. A number of companiesrun day- or half-day trips to most of the sightswithin easy reach of Dublin.

Greater Dublin

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Glendalough

Carlow

Dun Laoghaire

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Arklow

Navan

Hill of Tara

Robertstown

Kilcullen

RathnewLaragh

Rathdrum

Straffan

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Duleek

SwordsMalahide

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Castletown House

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Tour company buses to areas outside Dublin depart from theCentral Bus Station, Busarus, in Store Street.

Guinness StorehouseTo the west of the centre,

this comprehensive exhibition,set in the old brewery building,takes the visitor step-by-stepthrough the creation of thefamous beer, from the grain tothe final glass of creamy toppedblack liquid (see pp24–5).

Kilmainham Gaol and Hospital

At the far west of the city, thesetwo institutions could not bemore different. The forbiddingKilmainham Gaol, with its grimhistory, was restored and openedas a museum in the 1960s; incontrast, the former hospital is afine and beautiful building,restored in the 1980s and nowhome to the Irish Museum ofModern Art (see pp26–7).

Phoenix ParkThere is enough to see

within this vast park to keep thevisitor busy for a whole day. Thezoo is one of the main attractionsand has recently claimed 33 acresout of the main park for itsAfrican Plains section for largeranimals (see pp28–9).

Powerscourt Estate Five minutes from the pretty

village of Enniskerry, PowerscourtEstate is a magnificent spot. Thevisitor approaches the housedown a long beech-lined avenuewith beautiful views across thevalley. The house, designed by

Richard Cassels in the 1730s,was gutted by fire in 1974, but asmall exhibition gives the“before and after” story of itsreconstruction. The main part ofthe house is now given over toan up-market shop (see p73) andlarge restaurant. The gardens arespread over a steep slope look-ing across to Sugar Loaf Moun-tain; steps lead down to a lake,where a Triton fountain hurls waterhigh into the air. d Enniskerry, CoWicklow • Map N5 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily • Dis. access • Adm

Castletown HouseThis was the first example

of Palladianism to be constructedin Ireland (1722–32) and remainsthe largest and most significantof its kind in the country. Archi-tects Alessandro Galilei and SirEdward Lovett Pearce built thehouse for William Conolly, theSpeaker of the Irish Parliament.The fine interiors were commis-sioned in the second half of the18th century by Lady LouisaLennox, the wife of Conolly’sgreat-nephew Tom, who took upresidence here in 1758. The houseremained in the family until 1965and, after a period of ownershipby the Georgian Society, is nowrun by the state. d Celbridge, CoKildare • Map N5 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 1–6pm Sat–Sun; Oct:10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 2–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 2–5pm Sun • Dis. access • Adm

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Numbers to the Newgrange site are limited so expect to queue inhigh season.

Ancient ObservatoryWhen archaeologists decided to

restore Newgrange to as close toits original state as possible, theydiscovered that on the dawn of

the winter solstice (21 December)sunlight beams through the roofdirectly on to the burial chamber.Not only did this prove it to be theearliest known solar observatorybut also that the skills of the Celts

extended beyond construction.

RussboroughAnother fine Palladian

mansion, claiming the longestfrontage in Ireland, Russboroughwas designed by Richard Casselsin the mid-18th century. Standingon raised ground it faces a stretchof water backed by the WicklowMountains (see pp80–81) and iskept in immaculate condition. Oneof the main reasons to visit is forthe outstanding Beit Art Collec-tion, put together in the 19thcentury by Sir Alfred Beit (1853–1906). His nephew bought Russ-borough in 1952 to house thecollection. d Blessington, Co Wicklow• Map N5 • Open May–Sep: 10am–5pmdaily; Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm Sun & publichols only • Dis. access • Adm

GlendaloughA large part of the charm of

this important monastic site isits location. The name translatesas the “valley of the two lakes”:the Upper Lake provides some of

the most splendid scenery, withwooded slopes and a plungingwaterfall, while the Lower Lakehas a feeling of spirituality withthe monastic ruins all around. StKevin, a member of the Leinsterroyal family, founded the mona-stery during the 6th century andit became a renowned centre ofCeltic learning. d Co Wicklow • MapN5 • Open daily • Adm

National StudVisitors can tour this state-

run bloodstock farm to learnabout the breeding and training ofthese fine racehorses. Themuseum charts the developmentof the stud since its establish-ment by Colonel Hall Walker in1900. Also within the estate arethe beautiful Japanese Gardens,laid out between 1906–10 by HallWalker and two Japanesegardeners to represent the “lifeof man”. St Fiachra’s Garden wascreated to mark the Millennium,named after a 6th-century monkwith a love of gardening. d Kildare• Map N5 • Open mid-Feb–mid-Nov:9:30am–6pm daily • Dis. access • Adm

Upper Lake, Glendalough

Gatehouses, Glendalough

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Newbridge Demesne

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Following pages: Powerscourt Estate

Head out of Dublin on theN4 west road to Celbridgeand Castletown House

(see p69). Take the firsttour and you will get anexcellent history of thehouse and family as wellas being talked throughthe architectural highlights.Negotiate your way backto the Naas Road (N7) viaClane, across the Curraghtowards Kildare and theNational Stud – there’san excellent café here fora coffee. After a leisurelywander around the gardens,enjoy the fascinating andinformative tour throughthe business of blood-stock.

After leaving here head forRussborough House byreturning to Naas andtaking the N81 Blessing-ton road. The café-cum-restaurant at Russboroughserves simple butdelicious home-made farefor lunch. Then tour thehouse and savour theviews of the Wicklow

Mountains (see pp80–81).

Retrace your steps toNaas and the N7 to Dublinand follow signs forKilmainham Gaol (seepp26–7). After a sombrevisit to this former prison,cut across to Kilmainham

Hospital for the IrishMuseum of Modern Art. If further refreshment isrequired, there’s a goodcafé in the basement.Standing in the formalgardens here you get agreat view across toPhoenix Park (seepp28–9) which you couldvisit on your way back intothe centre, energy levelspermitting.

A Drive AroundGreater Dublin

Morning

Afternoon

Newgrange and the Boyne Valley

Newgrange is one of the mostsignificant passage graves inEurope but its origins areshrouded in mystery. Celticlegend tells that the Kings ofTara are buried here but New-grange was certainly constructedearlier. All visitors must passthrough the excellent Brú naBóinne Visitor Centre and join atour. Brú na Bóinne (“Palace ofthe Boyne”) is the Irish name forthe area, considered to be theorigin of Irish civilization. Anyonewith an interest in archaeologywill find the Boyne Valleyfascinating – its Hills of Tara andSlane also feature in Celticmythology. d Boyne Valley • Map M5• Opening hours vary, but always open9:30am–5pm daily • Adm

Newbridge DemesneA must for architecture fans,

this attractive house lies north ofDublin at the seaside village ofDonabate. The house wasdesigned for Archbishop CharlesCobbe in 1737 by GeorgeSemple – the Cobbe family stilllive in the upper half of thehouse although the councilbought it from them in the1980s. Rooms include thebeautifully preserved RedDrawing Room, the huge kitchenand the Museum of Curiosities. d Donabate • Map M5 • Open Apr–Sep:10am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 2–6pm Sun;Oct–Mar: 2–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm

74

Best of the RestAvondale HouseCharles Stewart Parnell (see

p31) was born in Avondale House,which is now a museum dedica-ted to his memory. d Rathdrum, CoWicklow • Map N6 • Open Mar–Apr,Sep–Oct: 11am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm

CarlingfordThis picturesque fishing

village has a number of unusualbuildings and a heritage centre.d Co Louth • Map N6

Peatland WorldThis exhibition on Irish bogs

is in the heart of the Bog of Allen(see p98). d Rathangan • Map M5 •Open 9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm

Marino CasinoBuilt in the 1750s for the

Earl of Charlemont, the casinowas to serve as a summerhouseto his country estate. Restorationwork is ongoing. d Fairview Park, offMalahide Rd • Map N6 • Open Jun–Sep:10am–6pm daily; Oct & May: 10am–5pmdaily; Nov–Dec, Feb–Mar: noon–4pmSat–Sun; Apr: noon–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm

Glasnevin BotanicGardens and Cemetery

These 47 acres include rosegardens and glasshouses. Theadjacent cemetery is the finalresting place of Daniel O’Connell(see p31). d Glasnevin Hill • Map N6 •Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 11am–6pm Sun(summer); 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am–4:30pm Sun (winter) • Dis. access • Free

Malahide CastleThe rounded towers of this

14th-century castle lend it anattractive fairytale appearance. d Malahide • Map N6 • Open daily • Adm

HowthThis busy fishing port offers

great walks around the headland.Look out for seals when theboats come in. d Map N6

Sandycove Martello TowerThe first chapter of Ulysses

(see p34) was set here and a tinymuseum contains Joyce memo-rabilia. d Sandycove • Map N6 • OpenApr–Sep: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun • Adm

Kilruddery HouseBuilt in 1651 for the Earl of

Meath, the formal gardens are itsmain feature. d Bray • Map N6 • Open Apr–Sep: 1–5pm daily • Adm

Mount Usher GardensA lure for all garden-lovers

for its rare shrubs, flowers andtrees. d Ashford • Map N6 • OpenMar–Oct: 10:30am–6pm daily • Adm

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Dublin

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Tullamore

Portlaoise

NewbridgeNaas Bray

Wicklow

Drogheda

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gifts and foods. The self-serverestaurant sells huge helpings ofMediterranean food. d Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow • Map N6

Mount Usher GardensThis arcade of shops

includes French label casual wear,equestrian clothes and equip-ment, a second-hand bookshop,art gallery and a pottery (see p74).

EnniskerryYet another pretty Wicklow

village with a smattering ofdesigner shops: up-market giftsfor the home in EnniskerryTrading Company, and great wineand cheese in Murtagh’s FineFoods and Wines. d Map N6

McGuirksOn the harbour in the centre

of Howth (see p74), this amazingshop sells excellent golfing gearat very keen prices as well ashigh-quality clothing that neednot be confined to the golf course.d Harbour Rd, Howth • Map N6

Far PavillionThe shop for a special gift.

Pretty china, napkins and smellythings, as well as books, coveredmatchboxes and expensive saladbowls. d 16 Castle St, Bray • Map N6

Wrights of HowthRight on the pier, Wrights

has a great selection of freshfish – try the wild smokedsalmon or gravadlax. d 14 WestPier, Howth • Map N6

PowerscourtSpread over two floors of

the main house (see p69) arenumerous different outlets.Avoca is the main retailer butthere are plenty of othersincluding Waterford Crystal andPowerscourt Own Brand. Thegarden centre is also excellent. d Powerscourt House, Enniskerry • Map N6

Fishers of NewtownMount Kennedy

An unlikely place to find tuckedaway here, selling up-marketwomen’s fashions and traditionalmen’s country clothes. d The OldSchoolhouse, Newtown Mount Kennedy • Map N6

MalahideAn extremely attractive

village with its streets arrangedin a cross-grid pattern. There is avariety of shops to visit includingan excellent wine shop, designerboutiques and a well-stockedhardware store. d Map N6

DalkeyAnother pretty seaside

village, and the home of manyinternational stars. There is acouple of excellent galleries anddesigner boutiques selling purelinen clothes and original silkknitwear. d Map N6

Avoca HandweaversThis is one of the main

outlets of Avoca, stocking a widerange of their own label clothes,

Greater Dublin Shopping Areas

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Left Dalkey Right Avoca Handweavers

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Pubs and BarsThe Silken ThomasThis is both pub and

restaurant and produces excel-lent and reasonably priced barfood. It is named after the fancyattire worn by a member of theFitzgerald family in the mid-16thcentury, famous for rebellingagainst Queen Elizabeth I (seep14). d Kildare • Map N5

Polly Hops A traditional old lrish pub

with wooden and stone floors,good bar food and live traditionalIrish music seven nights a week. d Lucan Rd, Newcastle, Co Dublin • Map N5

PJ O’Hare Anchor BarA great institution, this old

grocery store doubles up as abar and is a fun place to drink.Oysters are a speciality whenavailable. d Carlingford, Co Louth • Map M5

Conyngham ArmsThis old village inn is named

after the family that own SlaneCastle and most of the surroun-ding area. Originally a coachinginn, it is now also a hotel. Goodfood and a comfortable place todrink. d Slane, Co Meath • Map M5

Abbey Tavern There’s a great atmosphere

in this 16th-century inn, whichmakes the most of its antiquefeatures, large log fires andtraditional Irish evenings. d AbbeySt, Howth • Map N6

Johnnie FoxA well-known and respected

pub, 3 miles (5 km) fromEnniskerry. The 18th-centurycoaching inn, full of old beamsand roaring open fires, has aseemingly endless series ofconnected rooms. DanielO’Connell (see p31) was one ofthe pub’s regulars and historicflyers decorate the walls. d Glencullen • Map N6

The Gravity BarThis is the highest point of

the Guinness Storehouse andhas stupendous views across thecity. Enjoy your free pint – ifyou’ve been to the exhibition –and try to spot the various citylandmarks from the panoramicwindows (see pp24–5).

The Roundwood InnOriginally a 17th-century

coaching inn, this relaxing placewith wooden benches and floorsis usually full of ramblers. Thebar food is very good. d Roundwood, Co Wicklow • Map N6

Lynhams BarA wonderful, welcoming pub

with hearty fires and a jollycrowd of locals, just east ofGlendalough. d Laragh, Co Wicklow • Map N6

IMMA CaféA cheerful café in the

basement of this art gallery, withpainted tables and a light, brightatmosphere (see pp26–7) .

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Brasserie Na MaraA very special restaurant in

what used to be the CustomsHall. Lots of space and light withhigh ceilings and attractive decor.The seafood menu is delicious. d The Harbour, Dun Laoghaire • Map N6• 280 6767 • Dis. access • €€€

Café Mao’sThe same idea as the

original restaurant in ChathamRow (see p59); the space here isbigger and airier – very muchsuited to the style of the food. d The Harbour, Dun Laoghaire • Map N6• 214 8090 • Dis. access • €€

CavistonsThis small, smart restaurant

has a reputation for producingmouth-watering fish dishes. It isonly open for lunch but has threesittings, so the last can run intoan early supper. d 59 Glasthule Rd,Sandycove • Map N6 • 280 9245 • €€€

40 FootNamed after the traditional

bathing area on Sandycoveshore, this trendy bar-restauranthas magnificent views of DublinBay. Up-to-the-minute style anddelicious food. d The Pavilion, DunLaoghaire • Map N6 • 284 2982 • €€

KishThis purpose-built restaurant

beside an apartment develop-ment is elegant but informal andthe food is outstanding. Good-value lunch menu. d Coliemore Rd,Dalkey • Map N6 • 285 0377 • €€€€

King SitricRight at the end of Howth’s

harbourfront is this respectedrestaurant. The freshest seafoodis on offer in comfortablesurroundings. Good views fromthe first floor. Reservationsessential. d East Pier, Howth • MapN6 • 832 5235 • Dis. access • €€€€

Avoca Café PowerscourtA simply decorated café

serving the Avoca kitchens’ well-tested fare. Spread over a num-ber of large rooms, the acousticscan be a bit wearing when it’sfull. Wonderful views from theterrace (see p69).

Hungry MonkA slightly quirky but high-

quality restaurant, specializing ingame and fish. A new wine baron the ground floor is anexcellent addition to the village.d Church Rd, Greystones • Map N6 • 287 5759 • €€€

Oscar Taylor’sSituated on the Portmarnock

coast road, this restaurant offersgood food, and fabulous views ofLambay Island and the MalahideEstuary. d Island View Hotel, Coast Rd,Malahide • Map N6 • 845 0099 • €€–€€€

PoppiesCheap and cheerful cottage-

style restaurant that looks andfeels like an English tearoom.Generous portions of reliablehome cooking. d The Square,Enniskerry • Map N6 • 282 8869 • €

Places to Eat

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Above King Sitric

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

AROUNDIRELAND

Wicklow Mountains80–81

Around Waterford82–85

The Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula

86–89

Around Cork90–93

Tipperary, Limerick and Clare

94–97

Clonmacnoise98–99

Around Galway100–103

Connemara and Mayo 104–107

Yeats Country and the Northwest

108–113

Northern Ireland114–117

DU

BLIN’S TO

P 10

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Left Sally Gap Right Wicklow Gap

Wicklow Mountains

Rural cottage, Wicklow Mountains

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Sally Gap This bleak and remote

crossroads on the mountain roadbetween Dublin and Glendaloughstands at one of the highestmountain passes in Ireland. Withits extensive areas of waterybog, the country is so inacces-sible around here that it was afavourite hideout for Irishwarriors and nationalist rebelsduring the centuries of conflictsbetween the English and Irishforces. d Map N5

Wicklow Gap This high point on the little

R756 road through the WicklowMountains is also on themountain route to Glendaloughfrom Dublin. Turn here to climbup to the 2,670-ft (816-m)Tonelagee viewpoint, with itsbreathtaking panoramic view.There are few places that bettercapture the lonely beauty of thismountain range. d Map N5

Wicklow Way For those who really want to

see the mountains at close hand,there’s nothing better thanwalking. Numerous easy markedlocal paths run through pretty hillcountry, while the Wicklow Wayis for serious hikers. This 82-mile(130-km) marked path makes itsway through the heart of theregion, all the way from Dublinto Clonegal, in County Carlow. d Map N5

Blessington and The Lakes The delightful Georgian

village of Blessington is wherethe beautifully preservedPalladian mansion RussboroughHouse, and its famous Beit ArtCollection, is to be found. Fromhere, yet again, there are goodviews of the mountains while,just south of the village, theRiver Liffey has been dammed toform a picturesque lakereservoir, popular with Dublinersfor picnic outings and water-sports. d Map N5

Wicklow Town Wicklow’s modest county

town has a low-key charm, withits harbour and unpretentiouspubs. The one unmissable sightis Wicklow Gaol. A shocking taleis told at this notorious historicjailhouse (closed in 1924), wherehundreds of Irish rebels weredetained, often tortured and, inmany cases, hanged. Evocativeexhibitions fill in the background,including a section on the

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deportation of the inmates to thecolonies, such as Australia. d MapN6 • Wicklow Gaol: Open mid-Apr–Sep:10am–6pm daily; Adm

Djouce Woods Close to Dublin, this steeply

hilly woodland is part of thePowerscourt Estate. With thebeautiful Powerscourt Waterfallat its centre, it is a popular areafor an outing from the city,especially for walks, picnics,jogging and orienteering. Deerand red squirrel can be seenamong the oak, Sitka spruce,Douglas fir, beech and chestnuttrees. d Map N5

Avondale Forest ParkThe beautiful Avondale

Forest Park is filled with markedwalks and nature trails, some ofthem along the bucolic setting ofthe River Avonmore banks. Thereis also an 18th-centuryarboretum within the park, withan impressive range of plantspecies. d Rathdrum • Map N5 • Opendaily • Adm

Vale of Avoca“There is not in the wide

world a valley so sweet,” wrote19th-century poet Thomas Moorein his work The Meeting of the

Waters. It is perhaps not asidyllic now as it was then, butthe meeting of rust-colouredrivers among wooded hills is stillenticing. Avoca Handweavers, atthe nearby village (see p75),produce wonderful authentictweeds in Ireland’s oldesthandweaving mill. d Map N5

Devil’s Glen Although close to Wicklow

Town, this romantic woodedglen, with its waterfall andchirruping birds, is a haven ofpeace and tranquillity. It is partof the pretty valley of the Vartry.Perfect for walking or riding, itmakes a quiet escape within anhour’s drive of Dublin. There aremany pleasant self-cateringapartments and cottages to rent,as well as stables, and otherholiday facilities. d Map N5

Clara Lara Fun Park A top recreation site for

families, the fun park is in theVale of Clara, and near the villageof Laragh – hence the name. Itsrides are mostly based aroundwater, but there are Go Karts,too, and the highest slide inIreland, as well as tree-houses,climbing frames and picnicareas. d Map N5

View of the Wicklow Mountains

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Reginald’s Tower

GREEN AND HILLY COUNTY WATERFORD is exposed to the Atlantic to thesouth, the beautiful Blackwater and Suir rivers penetrate far inland,

while Waterford City stands by an excellent natural harbour. All these factorsmade this corner of the southeast almost too welcoming to outsiders –Waterford City (Vadrafjord in Norse), founded in AD 853, is thought to be theoldest surviving Viking town in Europe. Later, Normans also chose this spotfor their first Irish settlement – in few other places can Celtic, Norse andNorman relics be found so close to one another. In modern times, Waterfordhas been staunchly patriotic and proud of its heritage – it even has a smallGaeltacht (Irish-speaking district) around the village of Rinn.

Around Waterford

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8 Reginald’s Tower

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and Arboretum

1 Waterford Crystal

Factory

2 Waterford Treasures at

the Granary Museum

3 Waterford City Centre

4 Ardmore

5 Jerpoint Abbey

Sights

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N8

N76

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R741

R684

Dunmore East

Passage East

J.F.K. Park

Waterford

Clonmel

Lismore

Ardmore

Jerpoint Abbey

Rosslare

Cahir Carrick-on-Suir

New Ross

Arklow

Gorey

Enniscorthy

Dungarvan

Youghal

Cappoquin

BagenalstownThurlesMilestone

Athassel Priory

Thomastown

Kilmore Quay

Graiguenamanagh

Bunclody

Ballymacarbry

Ferrycarrig

Ballyhack

Cashel

Wexford

Kilkenny

Tipperary

Saltee Islands

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St George'sChannel

Barrow

S laney

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020 20 4040 miles km

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Waterford Crystal FactoryMost visitors to Waterford

come specifically to see itsfamous glassworks – and buywhatever they can afford of itsrenowned “crystal”. First openedin 1783, closed in 1851 andreopened in 1947, the factory hasalways used the same produc-tion methods, every item beingindividually hand-crafted. A 40-minute tour and a film showoff the astonishing skill of theglassblowers and cutters, whilethe Crystal Gallery displays anarray of what is made. d Cork Rd,Waterford • Map Q5 • Open Mar–Oct:9am–4:15pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9am–3:15pmMon–Fri • Dis. access • Adm for tour

Waterford Treasures atthe Granary Museum

This old stone grainstore hasbeen cleverly and attractivelyconverted to house an extra-ordinary interactive museumrevealing Waterford’s impressiveViking and Norman history. Itgets in the mood with aninvader’s-eye view from a wave-tossed Viking ship. Kids love it,and there’s a lot that is just forfun, but the more serious-

minded can ignore the wizardryand focus on the archaeologicalfinds. d Waterford • Map P5 • Opendaily • Dis. access • Adm

Waterford City CentreSurviving sections of

Waterford’s city walls showclearly the limits of the originalViking settlement, also borderedon one side by the River Suir.Today that waterfront, with itslively and attractive quays, is thefocal point of the town. The 18th-century City Hall housesimportant local memorabilia, andhosts the Waterford Show, anentertainment about the town’shistory. d Map P5

Ardmore Modern Ardmore is a

popular little beach resort, butthe hill behind is the site of StDeclan’s 5th-century monastery,probably the oldest in Ireland. Itsmany evocative remains (mostlydating from the 12th century)include St Declan’s Cathedral, a fine example of a high cross,and an impressive, 30-m (100-ft)round tower. d Map Q4

Jerpoint Abbey One of Ireland’s best

examples of a Cistercian mona-stery, the restored chapterhouseand part of the cloisters of 12th-century Jerpoint stand grandlyamong its ruins in a peacefulcountryside setting. The Jerpointcommunity quickly establisheditself as a great centre of cultureand learning, and was very pros-perous at the time of the Dissolution in 1540. Many finepieces of stone-carving can beseen, and there is a usefulInterpretative Centre. d Thomas-town • Map P5 • Open Mar–Nov: daily;Dec–Feb: open for bookings only • Dis.access • Adm

Waterford Crystal Factory

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Hook Peninsula

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Waterford’s GaeltachtThe only Irish-speaking area in thesoutheast is in County Waterford.The village and peninsula of Rinn,on the south side of DungarvonHarbour, is known as the DeisiGaeltacht after the Deisi tribe

whose home this was. A GaelicCollege here offers furthereducation in the language.

Hook PeninsulaThe peaceful “Ring of Hook”

headland lies beside the broadWaterford Harbour, with longsandy beaches, rugged cliffs, andmany relics of the past. At thenortheast corner, ruined TinternAbbey – with beautiful groundsand a little stone bridge – wasfounded in 1200 and, althoughmuch altered, remains atmos-pheric. The peninsula’s wild tip,where there has been a light-house since the 5th century, isbeloved of bird-watchers. d MapQ5 • Tintern Abbey: Open Jun-Oct:9:30am–6:30pm daily; Dis. access; Adm

Passage EastA small, enjoyable ferry runs

to-and-fro across WaterfordHarbour from this unassumingwaterside village. Its peaceful,

scenic setting and handful ofpainted cottages make apleasant break while waiting forthe boat. It was at this spot thatthe Normans arrived in Ireland in1170 and their sturdy stonetower still stands guard over theharbour. d Map Q5

Reginald’s TowerThe circular stone fortifica-

tion built 1,000 years ago byRagnvald, son of Sygtrygg, waspart of the original Viking ram-parts and still dominates thequayside. Over the centuries itprovided a base for other invaders,including Strongbow, Henry II,King John and Richard II, as wellas doing time as a prison. Today ithouses an art gallery and amuseum of Waterford history. d Quay, Waterford • Map P4 • OpenJan–Oct: daily; Nov–Dec: Wed–Sat • Adm

Dunmore EastA working fishing harbour

with brightly coloured boats, andcottages set among woods, thisattractive village makes afavourite outing for a drink, lunchor a waterfront stroll. Many ofthe cottages are available forholiday lets. Nearby sandy covesinclude the popular Lady’s Covebeach, and there are severalenjoyable marked walks andhikes. d Map Q5

John F Kennedy Park and Arboretum

Some 4,500 international speciesof trees and shrubs – all carefullylabelled – grow in this delightful600-acre arboretum, created inmemory of the former US presi-dent. Just below the arboretumstands the humble thatchedcottage where the president’sgreat-grandfather was born. d New Ross • Map P5 • Open daily • Dis. access • Adm

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The Olde StandThis centrally located pub-

restaurant (which has twice beengiven the Irish Pub of Distinctionaward) has a friendly atmosphereand serves excellent steak andseafood. d 45 Michael St, Waterford •Map P5 • 051 879488 • Dis. access • €€

The CellarChef Billy Whitty has

received international acclaim forhis modern take on traditionalIrish farmhouse cooking, withdishes such as marinated venison.d Horetown House, Foulksmills • Map P5• 051 565771 • Dis. access • €€€

The Lobster PotThis cheerful pub-restaurant

near the sea (prettily decoratedwith hanging baskets) servesfine seafood at a price that won’tbreak your budget. d CarnsorePoint, Carne • Map P5 • 053 31110 • Dis.access (partial) • €€€

The Sky and the GroundQuirky pub restaurant with a

fine choice of classic dishes andalmost 300 wines from its ownwine shop, at off-licence prices.d 112 S Main St, Wexford • Map P5 • 053 21273 • €€€

Loughman’s A good choice for those on a

budget, this friendly café has awide choice of vegetarian dishesand Irish and European favourites.d George’s Court, Barrowstand St,Waterford • Map P5 • 051 878704 • Closed D • Dis. access • €

Lady Helen Dining RoomOne of the region’s more

sophisticated restaurants servesan imaginative menu withinternational influences. Therestaurant has two AA rosettes.d Mount Juliet, Thomastown • Map P5 • 056 777 3000 • Dis. access • €€€€

BianconiThis award-winning hotel

restaurant serves the best ofcontemporary, Italian-influencedcuisine and has an excellentwine list. d Granville Hotel, Waterford• Map P5 • 051 305555 • Dis. access • €€€

Ocean HotelThis excellent restaurant has

won awards for its menu, whichis strong on freshly caught localseafood. d Dunmore East • Map Q5 • 051 383136 • €€

Rinuccini Serving an appetizing blend of

classic Italian dishes and the best ofmodern Irish cooking (with theemphasis on seafood, game, and Irishbeef and lamb). d 1 The Parade,Kilkenny • Map P4 • 056 776 1575 • €€€

Dunbrody Country HouseOwner Kevin Dundon is

regarded as one of Ireland’sfinest cooks, and the restaurantof this fine country house hotelis elegant, with outstanding foodand an excellent wine list. d Arthurstown • Map P5 • 051 389600 • Dis. access • €€€€

Places to EatAbove Dunbrody Country House

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

86

THE SOUTHWEST OF IRELAND IS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL regionsof the country. The Killarney National Park is an experience in itself but, if

at all possible, like the Ring of Kerry, should be seen off-season – the areahas become so popular that driving the Ring can turn into a nightmare oftour buses in high season. The area is largely made up of peninsulas,among them three to the southwest of Kenmare, the stunning DinglePeninsula to the north, and the most popular, the Beara Peninsula, with twoimpressive mountain ranges running along itsspine, offering wonderfully dramatic views.Yet, it’s not all nature. Amid thislandscape, both peaceful andrugged in turns, are some strikingGeorgian residences, numerouspretty villages, wildlife reservesand ancient religious sites. Ajourney to this corner of thecountry will have something tosuit all tastes and expectations.

The Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula

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1 Lakes of Killarney

2 Beara Peninsula

3 Dingle

4 Kenmare

5 Bantry Bay & Bantry

House

6 Gallarus Oratory

7 Killarney

8 Derrynane House

9 Sneem

0 Valentia Island and

the Skelligs

Sights

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KillarneyNational Park

Kenmare

Dingle

Gallarus Oratory

BantryHouse

Sneem

DerrynaneHouse

Lakes of Killarney

Baltimore

Clonakilty

BallyferriterKanturk

Killorglin

Castlegregory

Ballylickey

Castletownshend

GlengarriffWaterville

Banteer

Listowel

Abbeyfeale

FarranforeCastleisland

Cahersiveen

Schull

Skibbereen

Macroom

Tralee

Killarney

Valentia Island

The Skelligs

Blackwater

Dingle Bay

Bantry Bay

A t l a n t i cO c e a n

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YRREKFOGNIR

Dingle Peninsula

Beara Peninsula

Mizen Head

Clear Island

030 30miles km

Gallarus Oratory

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Lakes of KillarneyThe three lakes in this region,

Upper, Middle (Muckross) andLower (Lough Leane), are linkedby the Long Range River and areall incorporated into the stunning100-sq km (40-sq mile) KillarneyNational Park. Flanked by moun-tains, and with a varied landscapeof woodland, heather and peatbogs, the area offers a range ofbeautiful walks and drives. d Killarney, Co Kerry • Map Q2

Beara PeninsulaThe largest of the western

peninsulas has something foreveryone, with its pretty villages,beaches and mountains. The tworanges here are the SlieveMiskish and Caha Mountains.Tortuous bends wend their wayto the summits, but it’s worth itfor the view on fine days. If youare interested in wildlife, takethe cable car across to DurseyIsland, with its sea bird colonies.d Co Cork and Co Kerry • Map Q1

DingleA small, attractive fishing

town with a fine natural harbour,Dingle is extremely popular withtourists, who appreciate itscharm. Fungi the dolphin is thetown’s most famous residentand people come for miles tosee him play. d Co Kerry • Map Q1

KenmareDesigned by the Marquess

of Lansdowne in 1775, thisprosperous town has more of acontinental atmosphere herethan Irish, with its smart shopsand fine restaurants. Kenmare’sgreatest claim to fame, however,is more traditional, as a centre oflacemaking. d Co Kerry • Map Q2

Bantry Bay and Bantry House

This market town and fishingport is named after its beautifulsituation at the head of BantryBay. Bantry House, commandingan outstanding position withviews across the bay, has beenowned by the White family since1739. For maritime enthusiaststhere is a small museum in thestable, examining the history ofthe French Armada, which wasscuttled here in 1796. d Bantry, CoCork • Map Q2 • Bantry House: Openmid-Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily, Adm

Upper Lake, Killarney

Dingle harbour

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The SkelligsThe history of the Skellig Islands

dates back to the 7th centurywhen St Finian founded the

monastery of Skellig Michael. Allthat remains now are the ruins ofthe church, two oratories and six

beehive cells perched on anarrow platform. From 1820 to asrecently as 1987, the lighthouseshere were looked after by solitary

lighthousekeepers. SkelligMichael was designated a World

Heritage Site in 1996.

Gallarus OratoryThe best preserved early

Christian site in Ireland isbelieved to have been built sometime between the 6th and 9thcenturies AD. It was exquisitelyconstructed, using Neolithictechniques, with fine dry-stonecorbelling to ensure the structurewas waterproof. d Smerwick, CoKerry • Map Q1

KillarneyOn the doorstep of the Ring

of Kerry, with a clutch of excel-lent hotels and old-fashionedponies and traps, it’s not surpris-ing that this attractive townbecomes inundated with visitorsin summer. The shops andrestaurants are worth the visit, letalone the surrounding scenery. d Co Kerry • Map Q2

Derrynane HouseDerrynane is a lovely spot on

the coast, with 3 km (2 miles) ofdunes and beaches. DerrynaneHouse was the family home ofCatholic politician and lawyerDaniel O’Connell (see p31) and itnow contains a museum dedica-ted to the great leader. d Co Kerry• Map Q1 • Open Apr & Oct: 1–4:15pmTue–Sun; May–Sep: 9am–5:15pmMon–Sat, 11am–6:15pm Sun; Nov–Mar:1–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm

SneemThis pretty village, backed by

the 682-m (2,240-ft) KnockmoyleMountain, resembles somethingout of a children’s picture book,with its houses all painteddifferent colours. A popular,friendly place. d Co Kerry • Map Q2

Valentia Island and the Skelligs

The Skellig Experience museum,near the causeway linkingValentia Island to the mainland,

includes exhibits onthe history of the Skel-lig Michael monasticsite and a range ofinformation on localflora and fauna. Valentiais a popular holidayspot and is particularlygood for watersports,but the only inhabitantsof the Skelligs now arethe birds. Cruises circlethe islands but do notland. d Co Kerry • Map Q1Killarney

Sneem

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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

Nick’s RestaurantThis is an extremely relaxed

and jolly place very popular withthe locals, with generous portionsof traditional dishes. d LowerBridge St, Killorglin, Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 066 976 1219 • Dis. access • €€€

Gaby’sRun by the Maes family who

have been in the business fordecades, Gaby’s is considered tobe one of the best fish restau-rants in town. d 17 High St, Killarney,Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 32519 • Dis.access • €€€

Bantry HouseThis fine house (see p87)

overlooking Bantry Bay has acraft shop and an excellent caféwith informal seating. d Bantry, CoCork • Map Q2 • 027 51796 • €

The CooperageModern in style and decor,

this bar and restaurant attracts ayounger crowd than many of theother local restaurants in thisprice range. d Old Market Lane,Killarney, Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 37716• Closed Sun L • Dis. access • €€€

Chart House RestaurantThis informal modern

restaurant is to the east of townwith windows overlooking theharbour. The food combines many flavours, with both Asianand European influences. d The Mall, Dingle, Co Kerry • Map Q1 • 066 915 2255 • Closed Tue • Dis.access • €€€

PackiesThe hallmark of Maura

Foley’s cooking is simplicity andpurity of ingredients. Relaxedand informal setting. d Henry St,Kenmare • Map Q2 • 064 41508 • ClosedSun, Nov–Easter • €€

Sheen FallsEverything about the Sheen

Fall Lodge is grand. The hotel isimmaculately run, exudingsophisticated style. Therestaurant is no exception andthe food is faultless. d Kenmare,Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 41600 • Dis.access • €€€€€

Annie’s RestaurantChef-owner Annie Barry

uses fresh local produce tocreate Irish dishes with aEuropean twist. Set in a prettyseaside village, it is very popular,so book ahead. d Ballydehob, WestCork • Map Q2 • 028 37292 • ClosedSun–Mon, Nov • Dis. access • €€€

Doyle’s Seafood BarIn an area awash with sea-

food, this relaxed restaurantserves traditional fish dishesalongside more adventurousconcoctions. d Dingle, Co Kerry • Map Q1 • 066 915 1174 • €€€

The Purple HeatherSimple food but cooked to

perfection – pâtés to die for,beautifully light omelettes andhearty sandwiches on home-made bread. d Kenmare, Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 41016 • €–€€

Places to EatAbove Bantry House café

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

90

Around Cork

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1 Cork City

2 Kinsale

3 Cobh

4 Youghal

5 Blarney Castle

6 Fota Wildlife Park &

Arboretum

7 Timoleague Abbey

8 Jameson Heritage

Centre

9 Charles Fort

0 Royal Gunpowder

Mills

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Cork

Kinsale

Youghal

Blarney Castle

Fota Wildlife Park

JamesonHeritageCentre

RoyalGunpowder

Mills Cobh

Timoleague Abbey

Charles Fort9

Clonakilty

MallowCappoquin

Kanturk

Shanagarry

Midleton

Fermoy

Inishannon

Banteer

Bandon

Macroom

Lismore

Cork

Blackwater

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Mountains

025 25miles km

CORK CITY AND THE SURROUNDING AREA are full of historic, cultural and scenic places to visit. Cork itself is a lovely city, worth one

or two days’ exploration, including the three islands in Cork harbour formedby the two sections of the River Lee. Cobh, situated on what is known asGreat Island, came into its own in the 19th century as an important navalbase, due to its huge natural harbour. Close by is Fota Wildlife Park andArboretum, offering the visitor a change of pace from the predominance ofwater and sea. Between Cork and Youghal, the small town of Midleton

boasts the oldest distillery inIreland, Jamesons, home to thefamous Irish whiskey. The equallywell known Blarney Castle, withits “magic” stone, is only a shorttrip to the north of Cork. To thesouth, Kinsale is a charmingfishing village full of places to eatand its fair share of comfortableaccommodation, making it a goodbase for exploring the area.

Blarney Castle

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Cork CityOfficially Ireland’s second

city, built on either side of theRiver Lee, Cork is a true rival toDublin according to the localresidents, of which there arearound 140,000. The picturesquequays both north and south ofthe river, linked by an array ofbridges, offer spectacular views.The numerous waterways,narrow alleys and Georgianbuildings, together with thebalmy climate, often lend thecity a more continental than Irishatmosphere. d Map Q3

KinsaleThe fact that Kinsale has its

own gourmet food festival givessome idea of the calibre ofrestaurants and cafés here. It isprobably the most prosperousand sophisticated fishing villagein the country and, being only 15km (9 miles) from Cork, attractslocals and tourists in droves. Thepretty harbour is the focal pointand most of the activity centreson this area and the backstreetsaround it. d Map Q3

CobhPronounced “Cove”, this

19th-century town boasts one ofthe world’s largest naturalharbours. In its heyday, the townwas a major commercial seaportas well as being the stop-overport for luxury passenger liners,

including the Sirius, which madeher maiden voyage from here.Cobh was also the last port of callfor the Titanic before she sailedto her tragic end. The Queens-town Story is an interesting exhi-bition detailing the town’s mari-time history. Particularly poignantis the section on the part Cobhplayed in the transportation ofconvicts to Australia in the 18thand 19th centuries. d Map Q3 • The Queenstown Story: Cobh HeritageCentre, Open daily, Dis. access, Adm

YoughalAbout 30 km (18 miles) east

of Cork, Youghal (pronounced“Yawl”) has a great location onboth the Atlantic Ocean and thetamer banks of the River Black-water’s estuary. The impressivewalls enclosing the town areevidence of its vulnerability toattack from France and Spain – itwas once one of the most heavilyfortified seaports on the Britishcoast. Queen Elizabeth Ibestowed Youghal on Sir WalterRaleigh in gratitude for faithfulservice. Under Cromwell,however, the town became anEnglish Protestant garrison. d Map Q4

Youghal

Kinsale

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Cultural CorkCork prides itself on its cultureand is extremely proud of the

Opera House which offers a fullprogramme of classical concerts,opera and ballet throughout the

year. The Triskel Arts Centre is thevenue for literary events, perfor-mance art and music. The annual

jazz festival in October hasinternational status.

Blarney CastleIt is really the Blarney Stone,

believed to have been brought toIreland during the Crusades, thatbrings visitors flocking here intheir masses. Legend has it thatwhoever kisses the stone will begiven the gift of eloquent speech.The castle itself dates from themid-15th century and theBanqueting Hall and Great Hallare fine examples of architectureof the period. d Blarney • Map Q3 • Open daily • Dis. access • Adm

Fota Wildlife Park and Arboretum

This 700-acre centre prides itselfon helping to protect the environ-ment, breeding and reintroducinganimals to their natural habitats.One of its great successes is thesaving of the native white-tailedeagle that was threatened withextinction in Ireland. d Carrigtuohill,Cobh • Map Q3 • Open Apr–Oct: daily • Dis. access • Adm

Timoleague AbbeyA bleak atmosphere

presides here, when the misthangs over the shore and theruined 13th-century Franciscanabbey sits broodingly on thewaterside. Of particular interestis the wine cellar – the friarsprospered on the importation ofSpanish wines in the 16thcentury. d Timoleague • Map R3 • Open daily • Free

Old Midleton DistilleryAn excellent audio-visual

presentation of the story of Irishwhiskey, with a tour of the stillhouses, granaries, mills andmaltings, and a highly popularwhiskey tasting. d Midleton • MapQ3 • Open daily • Adm

Charles FortBuilt in the late 17th century,

Charles Fort has been associatedwith some of the mostmomentous events in Irishhistory, including the WilliamiteWar of 1690 and the Irish CivilWar in 1922–23. d Summer Cove,Kinsale • Map Q3 • Open daily • Adm

Royal Gunpowder MillsGunpowder was one of

Cork’s most important industriesin the mid-19th century until themills closed in 1903. Visitors cansee the canals, sluices, weirs,mills and workers’ cottages. d Ballincollig • Map Q3 • Open mid-Apr–Oct: daily • Dis. access • AdmBlarney Stone, Blarney Castle

Old Midleton Distillery

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Ballymaloe HouseDarina and Tim Allen’s

cookery school held here has aworldwide reputation and it ishardly surprising that the food isabsolutely delicious. Booking isessential. d Shanagarry • Map Q3 • 021 465 2531 • Dis. access • €€€€

The 1601This pubs serves a

straightforward menu of goodbar food in modern surroundings.d Pearse St, Kinsale • Map Q3 • 021 4772529 • €

An SúganAn extremely popular pub

with seafood dishes toabsolutely die for. d 41 WolfetoneSt, Clonakilty • Map Q3 • 023 33498 • Dis. access • €€€

CrackpotsEating here is an interesting

experience because you aresurrounded by unusual artworkand pottery – hence the name.The food is an equally unusualmix of styles and flavours andthe atmosphere is relaxed andinformal. d 3 Cork St, Kinsale • MapQ3 • 021 477 2847 • €€

Kinsale Gourmet Storeand Seafood Bar

Looking at the quality and thechoice of fresh fish on sale atthe fishmongers inspires one totry the excellent food served atthe simple, informal seafood bar. d Guardswell, Kinsale • Map Q3 • 021477 4453 • Closed D • €€€

Aherne’s SeafoodRestaurant and Bar

This popular, relaxed restaurant,serving delicious fresh seafooddishes, brings people from milesaround. d N Main St, Youghal • MapQ4 • 024 92424 • Dis. access • €€

The Yumi Yuki ClubCork’s first sushi bar opened

in 2001 and is a huge success.The chef’s selection, served onunmatching plates, sets the toneand livens the tastebuds. d TriskelArts Centre, Tobin St, Cork • Map Q3 • 021 427 5777 • €€

Blair’s InnThis award-winning bar-

restaurant is full of nooks andcrannies, with open fires in winterand a beer garden in summer.The speciality is seafood: try thelemon sole stuffed with crabmeat. d Cloghroe, Blarney, Co Cork • Map Q3 • 021 438 1470 • €€€

The VintageOn the market side of town,

this bar and restaurant is housedin an ancient beamed building,with natural stone walls and tiledfloors. The food is wholesomeand well cooked. d O’Brien St,Kanturk • Map Q3 • 029 50549 • ClosedSun L • €€€

IsaacsVery popular with locals and

visitors the simple, unpreten-tious food is consistently good.d 48 MacCurtain St, Cork • Map Q3 • 021 450 3805 • Closed Sun L • €€

Places to Eat and Drink

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

Above The 1601

94

Cliffs of Moher

FROM THE LUSH GREENERY OF TIPPERARY to the traffic jams of Limerick,and from the leisurely vacation boats cruising on the wide river Shannon

up to the stark, stirring emptiness of The Burren, this region embraces thefull diversity of rural Ireland. There are scores of impressive historic sightsand picture-perfect villages, as well as unpretentious country towns with nota tourist in sight. Cross the Shannon to reach the rockier majesty of CountyClare, whose rural way of life retains a profound simplicity and sense ofindependence. Culturally, it is rooted in tradition, and you’ll hear plenty ofIrish music played in village pubs. Clare’s coastline rises in dramatic cliffsthat take the force of the Atlantic, while inland, wind-battered gorse andbracken are broken up by high pasture. Sheep wander unfenced, walkingover the hills and along the country lanes as if all this land was theirs.

Tipperary, Limerick and Clare

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The BurrenNational Park

LimerickKilrush

KillaloeEnnis

CashelFoynes

BunrattyCastle

Portumna

MountshannonRoscrea

Cahir

Adare

Nenagh

GlinCarrigafoyle

Castle

Doolin

Newmarket-on-Fergus

Lisdoonvarna

BanshaKilmallockCharleville

Corrofin Borrisokane

Killimer

Kilkee

Quilty

Listowel

Abbeyfeale

Rathkeale

Thurles

Feakle

Shannon

Ennistimon

Ballyvaughan

Birr

Kinvarra

Kilmacduagh

Clonmel

Tipperary

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Aran Islands

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Cliffs of Moher

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CashelThis quiet country town is

dominated by the awesome Rockof Cashel, topped by stone struc-tures known in pre-Christian timesas Cashel of Kings (from Gaeliccaiseal, a stone fortress). Sensingthe rising power of the church, in1101 the Kings of Munster re-defined themselves as a dynastyof royal archbishops and builtgreat ecclesiastical buildings.Most were destroyed by theEnglish in 1647, but highlights ofwhat survives are 12th-centuryCormac’s Chapel, the earliestRomanesque church in Ireland;the roofless 13th-centurycathedral; and the 15th-centuryVicars’ Choral, the residentialquarters of the cathedral cantors. d Cashel • Map N2

LimerickA grim portrait of industrial

Limerick, the third-largest city inthe republic, was painted byFrank McCourt’s novel Angela’sAshes (see p35). It’s not that badnow. The city centre has goodrestaurants and pubs and apleasant atmosphere. Historicalsights include the imposing KingJohn’s Castle, built in 1210,

containing a display on thetown’s 800-year history. Don’tmiss, either, the Hunt Museum,a magnificent collection of Irishantiquities inside the beautiful18th-century Old Custom House.d Map P3 • King John’s Castle: Opendaily; Adm • Hunt Museum: Rutland St;Open daily; Adm

Cliffs of MoherFive miles (8 km) of sheer

cliffs rising as much as 650 ft(200 m) up from the poundingAtlantic, this is one of Europe’sgrandest stretches of coastline.Take the cliff-edge footpathround to O’Brien’s Tower, whichgives a stunning view. d Map N2

The BurrenA weird limestone desert of

flat rock “pavements”, at firstglance most of the 100-sq-mile(260-sq-km) Burren (pronounced“burn”) seems lifeless. But theweb of hidden gulleys is brim-ming with plants, some veryrare. Once densely populated,the Burren preserves dolmens,ruined towers and ring-forts. Visitthe Display Centre to learn more.d Map N2 • Burren Display Centre:Kilfenora; Open daily, Adm

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Banqueting room, Bunratty Castle

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Burren BotanyApart from seasonal pools, calledturloughs, the Burren’s limestone

does not hold water. Yet morethan 1,000 plant species thrive

here, because countless cracks inthe rocks and stones accumulate

organic matter and provideshelter. Especially common are

mosses, lichens, rock rose,mountain avens, orchids and

bloody cranesbill.

River ShannonIreland’s longest river opens

into broad lakes, eventuallywidening into a huge estuary.The river’s curve traditionallymarks the border of the west.Lough Derg, the largest lake, setamid wooded hills, is a populararea for boating and angling.Further downriver is an immensevariety of birdlife. d Map P2

Kilrush and Loop Head Drive

While Kilrush itself is unremark-able, it makes a good base forexploring the furthest reaches ofsouthwest County Clare. Espe-cially worthwhile is a drive out toremote Loop Head. For an insightinto local history, particularly thehardships of the region underEnglish rule, visit the KilrushHeritage Centre. d Map P2 • KilrushHeritage Centre, Market House: OpenMay–Sep: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; Adm

Bunratty CastleThe sturdy 15th-century

stronghold of the O’Briens, Earlsof Thomond, has become the topvenue for mock medieval ban-quets and other entertainment.The five-storey structure wasfully restored by Viscount Gort in

1954. Behind the castle, BunrattyFolk Park gives insight into tradi-tional rural culture. d Bunratty • MapP3 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily; Last adm to castle 4pm • Adm

Foynes Flying Boat Museum

Transatlantic flights betweenIreland and the US began inFoynes in 1939, and in 1942 thefirst non-stop passenger flightsbetween Europe and Americastarted here. The museum tellsthe story. There is also a 1940s-style tearoom. d Foynes • Map P2 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily • Adm

EnnisThis likeable little town, with

its bright shopfronts and musicpubs, first grew up in the 13thcentury around the Franciscancommunity of Ennis Friary. Shutdown in 1692, the abbey fell intoruin but what survives – mostly15th-century – includes the richlycarved MacMahon Tomb. d MapP2 • Friary: Open mid-May–Sep: 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Dis. access; Adm

KillaloeA chic marina town rising

steeply from the southern end ofLough Derg, Killaloe is a centrefor watersports. Its 12th-centurySt Flannan’s Cathedral andOratory have Romanesquedecorative stonework. d Map P3

Places to Eat

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Hal Pino’sThis stylish new bar-

restaurant, just off Ennis’s mainsquare, serves an eclectic menudrawing on worldwide influencesin an up-scale but informal atmos-phere. d 7 High St, Ennis • Map P3 • 065 684 0011 • Dis. access • €€€

CruisesEstablished in 1647, Cruises

is an attractive, old-style inn withsuperb steak and seafood andlive traditional music every night. d Abbey St, Ennis • Map P3 • 065 6841800 • Dis. access • €€€

The Mustard SeedThis bustling restaurant

within a Victorian country househotel offers fine modern Irishcuisine and an excellent wine list.Stylish, but not pretentious. d Echo Lodge, Ballingarry • Map P3 • 069 68508 • Dis. access • €€€€

The ArchesThis is an affordable, family-

run eatery in the centre of oneof Ireland’s prettiest villages andis well known for its hearty homecooking and friendly service. d Adare • Map P3 • 061 396246 • Nocredit cards • Dis. access • €€

Cullinans This family-owned restaurant

(and guesthouse) in the centre ofDoolin village is renowned for itsspeciality of locally caught freshseafood, simply prepared andpresented. d Doolin • Map P3 • 065707 4183 • Dis. access • €€€

BruleesDonal Cooper and Teresa

Murphy serve fine food mademainly from local produce attheir widely acclaimed restaurantin central Limerick. d Henry St,Limerick • Map P3 • 061 319931 • Dis.access • €€€

Durty Nelly’s Oyster Restaurant

This mellow village inn, in theshadow of Bunratty Castle, hasbeen in business since 1620, andstill serves a range of substantialIrish dishes, oysters andseafood. d Bunratty • Map P3 • 061364861 • Dis. access • €€€

Earl of ThomondThis aristocratic room at

Dromoland Castle is the perfectplace for a lavish lunch or dinnerafter a day on the adjoining golfcourse. d Newmarket on Fergus • MapP3 • 061 369144 • €€€€€

The SeafarerThis long-established local in

the centre of Lahinch village(handily near the golf club) isrenowned for fine poultry, sea-food, beef and lamb. d Kettle St,Ennistymon Rd, Lahinch • Map P3 • 065708 1050 • Dis. access • €€€

Molly’s Bar andRestaurant

A pub-style restaurant on theshores of Lough Derg, Molly’sserves simply cooked, fresh localproduce. d Balina, Killaloe • Map P3 • 061 376632 • Dis. access • €€

Above The Mustard Seed

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

98

Left Clonmacnoise ruins Right Shannonbridge Bog Railway

Around Clonmacnoise

Emo Court

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ClonmacnoiseThis early Christian site,

founded by St Ciaran in the 6thcentury, draws tourists intoIreland’s often neglectedMidlands. The grounds areatmospheric, especially on a greyIrish day, and include the ruins ofa cathedral, eight churches(10th–13th-centuries), two roundtowers, three high crosses anddozens of early Christian graveslabs. The visitors’ centre offersan audio-visual show andexhibitions. d Shannonbridge • MapN4 • Open Mar–May & Sep–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; May-Sep: 9am–7pm daily;Oct–Mar: 10am–5:30pm daily • Dis.access (visitors’ centre) • Adm

Birr Castle,Gardens and Telescope

It’s rare that a castle playssecond fiddle to its surroundings.Here, however, the gardens, cov-ering more than 150 acres andcontaining 2,000 species of raretrees and shrubs, take the prize.Spring blossoms and autumnfoliage are mesmerizing. Thegrounds are also home to theEarl of Rosse’s 72-inch (180-cm)telescope. Built in the 1840s thiswas once the world’s largest. d Rosse Row, Bir • Map N4 • Open daily• Dis. access • Adm

Emo CourtDesigned in 1790 for the

Earl of Portarlington, this isanother fine example of architectJames Gandon’s work (see p53),and his interiors in this lovely

house remain unchanged. Thefine gardens are divided into twosections: the Grapery leads youdown to a lakeside walk; theCluckery acquired its name fromthe nuns who used to residehere. d Portlaoise • Map N4 • House:Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 10:30am–5pmTue–Sun; Gardens: Open dawn–dusk daily• Adm to house

Shannonbridge Bog Railway

You might call it dirt, but theycall it peat around these parts,and it is valuable. Bord na Mona(the national peat board) runs this5.5-mile (9-km) rail trip throughthe Blackwater Bog and theBlackwater Power Station. Thetour teaches you everything youneed to know about harvestingthis acidic resource and the impor-tance it has played in poweringthe Emerald Isle. d R357, Shannon-bridge • Map N4 • Open Apr–Oct • Adm

BirrAlthough largely dominated

by the castle and its grounds,the town of Birr has much tooffer visitors. Its beautiful

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Georgian style has been lovinglypreserved, many of the buildingsretaining their original fanlightsand door panelling. d Map N4

Rock of DunamaseTowering 150 ft (45 m) above

a flat plain, the Rock of Dunamaseis one of the most impressiveand historic sights in Ireland. Thesight was included on Ptolemy’sworld map in AD 140, such wasits fame, and the ruins date backthousands of years. Standingamid its history, you can see allthe way to the Slieve BloomMountains. d Laois • Map N4

Belvedere HouseDespite a perfect Austen-

style setting, there was no senseor sensibility in the actions of theEarl of Belvedere. He began thehouse in 1740, spent his lifefighting his brothers and built theGothic Jealous Wall to block theview of his sibling’s house. Healso imprisoned his wife for 31years, suspecting she’d slept withone of them. Visitors, however,are free to roam the beautifulgardens and the shore of LoughEnnell. d N52, Mullingar • Map N4 •Open May–Aug: 9:30am–6pm Mon–Fri,10:30am–7pm weekends; Sep–Oct:10:30am–6pm daily; Nov–Apr: 10:30am–4:30pm daily • Dis. access • Adm

Tullynally CastleOriginally constructed in the

17th century, most of Tullynallytoday is a result of the secondEarl of Longford’s remodelling ofit as a rambling Gothic Revivalcastle, housing a collection ofIrish furniture and portraits.Outside are romantic groundsand walled gardens. d Castlepollard• Map M4 • Castle: Open to groups byarrangement; Gardens: Open May:weekends, Jun–Aug: 2–6pm daily • Adm

Slieve Bloom MountainsDespite only rising 2,000 ft

(615 m), the surrounding flatplain aids in creating an imposingimage of the Slieve BloomMountains. The summits havebeen declared a National NatureReserve and the Slieve BloomWay has been marked out forhikers who have waterfalls, hiddenglens and peaceful villages tolook forward to. d Map N4

Bog of AllenOnce the largest raised peat

bog in Ireland, the bog has beengradually shrinking as it is usedfor powering the island. It ishome to some of Ireland’s mostinteresting indigenous plants andinsects, including the carnivoroussundew plant and bog cotton. d Peatland World, Lullymore • Map N5

Rock of Dunamase

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Galway

Cong Abbey

Kinvarra

Kilmacduagh

Thoor Ballylee

Spiddal

Athenry

Coole Park

Oughterard

Cong

MoyloughTuam

MoneenHeadford

Doolin

Barna

Kilcolgan

Oranmore

MoycullenRossaveal

Lisdoonvarna

Corrofin

Maam Cross

Maam

Laghtgeorge

Loughrea

Gort

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BallyvaughanBurren

Aran Islands

Lough Corrib

Galway Bay

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Kinvarra

COUNTY GALWAY HAS A PECULIAR MAJESTY and an awesome sense of its closeness to nature, stalwartly facing the imposing Atlantic Ocean. Even

the area around the county town, Galway City, squeezed onto a strip of landbetween the expanse of Lough Corrib and the immense waters of GalwayBay, possesses that same inspiring quality. As well as its own charms, withgood restaurants and charming pubs, it is a good base from which toexplore the area. South of the city is a gentler, greener countryside. While agood deal of the fascination of this southern edge of Galway lies simply inthe tranquil landscape, for lovers ofliterature much of the interest is also inthe connection with the romantic Irishpoet WB Yeats (see p34). Although notoriginally from this region, Yeats returnedoften in his thoughts and in his work tothe myths and grandeur of westernIreland, and spent many years living athis Thoor Ballylee near Gort, south ofGalway City. Pleasant, gentle cruises onthe lakes are another attraction.

Around Galway

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Galway CityThe pleasant, bustling

regional capital started life as afortress of the O’Connors ofConnacht. Colonized in 1232 byAnglo-Normans, it became aprosperous seaport: some finebuildings survive, notably 16th-century Lynch’s Castle (now abank), and 14th-century StNicholas’s Church. A great atmos-phere, with plenty of music andtraditional shops. d Map N2

Lough CorribThe vast expanse of Lough

Corrib’s cool waters, feelingmore like part of the AtlanticOcean than a lake, is Ireland’ssecond largest, and a popularresort area for angling, boatingand walking. d Map N2

KinvarraThe little road around Galway

Bay passes through a score ofvillages that are breathtaking intheir prettiness and grandioselocation. The most charming isKinvarra, with its fishing harbourand pier cottages. It’s the settingfor a traditional music festival inMay, and a fishing-boat gatheringin August. d Map N3

Coole ParkThe woods, lakes and paths

of this national park and wildlifepreserve, with its red deer andred squirrels, were once thegrounds of a great Georgianmansion, home of Lady AugustaGregory (see p62). She hostedthe most famous novelists andplaywrights of her day and theIrish Revival began here. Namescarved on the Autograph Treeinclude Shaw, Synge, SeanO’Casey and many more. Thehouse itself fell into ruin and wasdismantled. d Gort • Map N3 • OpenApr–Sep: daily • Adm

Cong AbbeyPoised on the narrow strip

between Lough Corrib and LoughMask, the attractive village ofCong lies just across the Galwayborder in County Mayo. CongAbbey was an importantAugustinian community foundedby the King of Connacht in 1128and became a leading spiritualcentre. Closed down during theReformation, it fell into ruin.What survives remains majestic;the cloisters have been partlyreconstructed. d Cong • Map M2

Doorway, Cong Abbey

Galway City

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Thoor Ballylee

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To Be CarvedOne of Yeats’s poems is entitled

To Be Carved on a Stone at ThoorBallylee, and the words have

indeed been carved at the house:“I, the poet William Yeats

With old mill boards and sea-green slates

And smithy work from the Gorge forge

Restored this tower for my wife George;

And may these characteristicsremain

When all is ruin once again”.

OughterardOn the shores of Lough

Corrib, this village has become asmall resort area. Its chief prize,however, is Aughnanure Castle,beside the lake – a handsomeremnant of a 16th-century tower-house of the O’Flaherties, theConnacht clan who terrified theruling Anglo-Norman families ofGalway. d Map N2 • AughnanureCastle: Open May–mid-Jun & Oct:weekends; mid-Jun–Sep: daily • Adm

Thoor BallyleeFollow the sign “Yeats

Tower” to reach the old tower-house in which WB Yeats and hiswife Georgie spent much timeduring the 1920s. A sturdy littlefortress, it was restored andconverted by Yeats, and isdescribed with touching detail inmany of his poems. It is nowlovingly preserved as a homageto Yeats. d Gort • Map N3 • OpenApr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily • Adm

KilmacduaghAn astonishing set of

monastic ruins survives here.The original church established in AD 610 was enlarged over thecenturies and replaced by acathedral in the 14th century,though keeping many features of

the older buildings, including a10th-century door. Around it area number of other intriguing13th- and 14th-century ecclesi-astical buildings. There’s also aLeaning Tower. d Gort • Map N3

SpiddalOfficially Irish-speaking, and

with a Gaelic summer school,Spiddal makes a pleasant stopon the Galway Bay coast road.Several craft workers have set upshop in the Spiddal Craft Village,where you can see pottery,weaving, knitting and otherskilled work in progress, or buythe finished goods. d Map N2

AthenryThe poignant folksong “The

Fields of Athenry” (pronouncedAthen-rye) gives little clue aboutthis evocative reminder of theAnglo-Norman colonists. In 1211,Meiler de Bermingham madeAthenry his seat, enclosed itwith sturdy ramparts, built a littlecastle, and founded a DominicanPriory in 1241 where he and hisdescendants could be buried.Today, though damaged, muchsurvives, together with a broken15th-century cross erected in thecentral square. d Map N3

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Cashel House This country house and

restaurant was once a graciousaristocratic home and has nowearned itself international renownfor both its food and atmos-phere. d Cashel • Map N2 • 095 31001• €€€€

O’Dowd’s Seafood Barand Restaurant

Beside Roundstone’s prettyharbour, O’Dowd’s serves steakand seafood dishes and doesmore for vegetarians than mostIrish restaurants. d Roundstone • Map N1 • 095 35809 • €€

Aran FishermanThis harbourside restaurant

is certainly the best on the AranIslands (where there is, admit-tedly, limited competition). Itsseafood, caught the same day,must be the freshest in Ireland.d Kilronan, Aran Islands • Map N1 • 09961363 • €€€

White GablesIn an informal whitewashed

19th-century inn, White Gables isbest known for its lobster, butalso serves other “surf and turf”dishes. d Moycullen Village • Map N2 • 091 555744 • €€€

McDonagh’s FishRestaurant

As you might expect, specializingmainly in seafood. Excellentseafood platter and friendlyservice. d Kirwan’s Lane, Galway City • Map N3 • 091 565001 • €€

BoluisceThis family-run restaurant

has earned itself a high repu-tation for Connemara lamb, Irishbeef, and delicious fish from thenearby Atlantic. d Spiddal • Map N2• 091 553286 • €€€

Cre na CilleSeafood, meat and game are

the specialities of this excellentbut unassuming family-run res-taurant. It also has a large arrayof fine whiskeys. d High St, Tuam • Map N2 • 093 28232 • €€€

Paddy Burke’sThe best time to visit this

traditional pub is during Clarin-bridge’s September oyster festi-val. As well as shellfish from thefamed local beds, it offers achoice of good meat and fishdishes. d Clarinbridge • Map N2 • 091 796226 • Dis. access • €€€

Currarevagh HouseThis restaurant is part of a

country manor on the shores ofLough Corrib (famous for browntrout, which is on the menu inseason). d Oughterard • Map N2 • 091552312 • €€€

NimmosThe Mediterranean cooking

and live folk music onWednesday and Saturday makethis a popular place with locals.The walls are covered withobjets d’art by the artist owner.d Long Walk, Spanish Arch, Galway City • Map N2 • 091 561114 • €€€

Places to EatAbove Currarevagh House

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

104

CONNEMARA – THE ROCKY MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRYSIDE of western County Galway – is almost entirely uncultivated, a strange wilderness of

water and stone, peat bog, headlands and barren hills. Along its shores, theAtlantic eats savagely into the land, making spectacular inlets and bays.Seemingly uninhabitable, in pre-famine days Connemara was crowded withpoverty-stricken farmers, victims of the Protestant Ascendancy that haddriven them from their farms across the Shannon.Thousands of rough dry-stone walls criss-cross thebare hills, enclosing their tiny abandoned fields.The famine wiped out most of Connemara’shuman life, and the memory of that disasterlingers sadly in the glorious landscape. Thepoignant scenery continues across Killary Fjordinto County Mayo, where – as well as wide openspaces of bog, heath, mountain and lake – thereare appealing small towns, a traditional way of life,and much to see.

Connemara and Mayo

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Detail, Westport House

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ConnemaraNational Park

CroaghPatrick

Westport

Céide Fields

KylemoreAbbey

Clifden

Roundstone

Cong

Ballina

BallycastleBelderg

BangorErris

Foxford

Claremorris

Castlebar

Belmullet

Recess

Leenane

Louisburgh

Ballyconneely

Mulrany

Letterfrack

Oughterard

Kingstown

Newport

Crossmolina

Cashel

Achill Island

Clare Island

Inishbofin

Inishturk

Lough Corrib

Lough Mask

Lough Conn

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WestportBusy, popular Westport is

still small enough that country-side can be seen at the end ofthe main streets. Originally builtin 1780 by the Earl of Altamontas an adjunct to his mansionWestport House, this is a goodexample of a planned town, withits dignified central Octagon andtree-lined Mall. It was all paid forby the slave-worked West Indiansugar plantations of the Earl’swife. Westport House remainsimposing and grandly furnished,although touristy, with addedattractions such as video gamesand an animal park. d Map M2 • Westport House: Open Jun–Sep: daily(times vary); Adm

ClifdenRegarded as the “capital” of

Connemara, although hardlymore than a village, this busylittle resort lies among lovelygreen hills above Clifden Bay andat the foot of the Twelve BensMountains. A Georgian plannedtown built by John d’Arcy, itretains a certain character andstyle. At the end of summer,Clifden hosts the traditionalConnemara Pony Show, whichbrings in hordes of horse-lovers.d Map M1

Kylemore AbbeyThe extraordinarily over-

elaborate mock Gothic castle,built as a private house in 1868for millionaire Mitchell Henry,has been a Benedictine conventsince the 1920s. Although areligious community, it is alsorun as a commercial touristattraction. The house and walledgardens are delightful, and thelocation magnificent, next toKylemore Lough and with viewstowards the Twelve Bens. d Kylemore • Map M2 • Open9am–5:30pm daily • Adm

Connemara National Park and Twelve Bens

MountainsExtending from Letterfrackvillage to the Twelve Bens, thepark is a 5,000-acre conservationarea of heath, bog and hillsencompassing the grandest ofConnemara’s landscapes. TheTwelve Bens, a dozen high peaksrising from the heart of thewestern mountains, dominatethe Connemara skyline. Avisitors’ centre near the parkentrance has a permanentexhibition on the flora, fauna,geology and history of theregion. d Map M2 • Visitors’ Centre:Letterfrack; Open Mar–Oct: daily; Adm

Kylemore Abbey

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Grace O’MalleyGrace O’Malley (1530–1600) was

the daughter of a Connachtchieftain. At 15, she married the

O’Flaherty chief, whose menremained loyal to her after his

death. With fortresses throughoutConnacht, and based on Clare

Island, in 1593 she visited QueenElizabeth I, extracting a promise

to be left in peace.

Sky RoadNamed for its beautiful cliff-

edge ocean views, the Sky Roadis a 7-mile (11-km) loop thatstarts out from Clifden to skirtthe narrow peninsula alongsideClifden Bay. Along the way itreaches empty beaches, wild hillscenery, and sights such as theruins of Neo-Gothic ClifdenCastle, the home of Clifden’sfounder John d’Arcy. d Map M1

RoundstoneCloch na Rón is the official

name of this attractively laid out,Irish-speaking “planned village”built in the 1820s. In one way,it’s an authentic, unpretentiouslobster-fishing community, but italso has an arty side and manyattractions for visitors, includinga good beach, a range of eatingplaces, galleries and traditionalshops. d Map N2

Leenane to Killary Harbour

The appealing village of Leenanelies beside the long, narrow inletof Killary Fjord. From here, thedramatically beautiful road to thesmall oceanside resort of Louis-burgh crosses the water betweenthe peaks of Devil’s Mother andBen Gorm, and rises among lakesand streams along the narrowDelphi Valley, in places burstingwith rhododendrons. One of thewest’s loveliest drives. d Map M2

Clare and Inishbofin Islands

Dramatic Clare Island was thestronghold of Grace O’Malley, orGranuaile, whose little fortressstill stands, as does the ruinedabbey where she is buried.Inishbofin has a green, lonelybeauty. Home of the O’Flahertyclan, and a hideaway of GraceO’Malley, it was taken by Crom-well. Both have small populationsand prehistoric ruins. d Map M1

Croagh PatrickSt Patrick supposedly

climbed this black conical hill,one of Ireland’s most sacredsites, dedicated to Lugh, God ofLight. It is considered a pious actto make the steep climb on therough, cutting stones to thesummit (which gives pheno-menal views). For the annualJuly pilgrimage, many ascend inbare feet. d Map M2

Céide FieldsPreserved for thousands of

years under a blanket of peatbog, the Céide site consists ofwalled fields cultivated in StoneAge times, together with stoneruins. All is explained by theexcellent guided tours offered bythe visitors’ centre. d Map L2

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Calveys RestaurantBy far the best place to eat

on Achill Island, Calveys has anair of understated elegance andserves local fish and shellfish,free range poultry, organicvegetables and game. d Keel, AchillIsland • Map M1 • 098 43158 • €€

Quay CottageThe best choice in town for

vegetarian dishes, this harbour-side restaurant is also wellknown for its fresh fish, lobster,crab and steaks. d The Harbour,Westport • Map M2 • 098 26412 • Dis.access • €€€

Newport HouseThis restaurant in a lovely

Georgian mansion bases itsmenu on fresh produce from itsown farm, gardens and fishery,and smokes its own salmon.Also has a superb wine cellar.d Newport • Map M2 • 098 41222 • Dis.access • €€€€

Rosleague ManorConnemara lamb and local

seafood are specialities of thehouse, served with the bestlocal ingredients. d Letterfrack • Map M2 • 095 41101 • €€

Crockets on the QuayAffordable, friendly and

relaxed restaurant and bar on thequay, beside the River Moy.Choose from bar meals (greatchowder) or a full menu featuringmodern Irish cuisine. d Ballina • Map L2 • 096 75930 • Dis. access • €€€

O'Dowd's Seafood Bar and Restaurant

Beside Roundstone’s prettyharbour, O’Dowds serves steak,chicken and seafood dishes anddoes more for vegetarians thanmost Irish restaurants. Barsnacks and daily specials as wellas à la carte meals. d Roundstone • Map N1 • 095 35809 • Dis. access • €€

Cashel House This country house and

restaurant has earned itselfinternational renown for its foodand atmosphere. Classic cookingand freshly caught local seafood.d Cashel • Map N2 • 095 31001 • €€€€

Renvyle HouseA gracious country house-

style hotel on the shores of theAtlantic serving superb seafood,Connemara lamb, and a range ofother classic Irish and Europeandishes. d Renvyle • Map M1 • 09543511 • Dis. access • €€€€

Asgard TavernAn award-winning fisher-

men’s pub serves a good choiceof seafood dishes. d The Quay,Westport • Map M2 • 098 25319 • Dis.access (bar only) • €€€

Ardmore Country Houseand Restaurant

Using only local produce, thiscountry house restaurant hasearned itself renown for itswonderful steaks, lobster andoysters. d The Quay, Westport • MapM2 • 098 25994 • €€€

Places to EatAbove Cashel House

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

108

THE NORTHWEST OF IRELAND IS AMONG THE LEAST EXPLORED areas ofthe country, and yet it incorporates some of the finest and most dramatic

scenery, with its beautiful, wide sandy beaches, towering mountains,woodland and forest parks. Driving is really the best way to tour this part ofthe country as public transport is all but non-existent, and it gives the visitorthe freedom to explore at whim. The region’s colloquial name is in honour ofthe two great Irish brothers, Jack B and WB Yeats, artist and poetrespectively, who hailed from the ancient Celtic town of Sligo. This was alsothe legendary power base of the warrior QueenMaeve of Connaught and is packed with prehistoricsites. Donegal has played a more historic rolethroughout the centuries but was finally leftisolated when it was excluded from the newNorthern Ireland in 1921 (see p31). Itsabandonment has left it with little in common withits fellow counties, historically or geographically.

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GlenveaghNational Park

Sligo

Letterkenny

LissadellHouse

Parke's Castle

Boyle

DonegalKillybegs

StrabaneArdaraGlencolumbkille

Ballyshannon

DromoreWest

Manorhamilton

Collooney

Dunfanaghy

Tobercurry

Buncrana

Clones

Ballybofey

Cavan

Ballymote

Grange

Mohill

Stranorlar

Pettigoe

Dungloe

Crolly

Drumcliffe Enniskillen

Londonderry(Derry)

Omagh

Tory Island

Lower Lough Erne

Upper Lough Erne

Lough Allen

Lough Derg

Lough Key

A t l a n t i cO c e a n

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Slieve League

Fanad Peninsula

Aranmore

Derryveagh Mountains

Inishowen PeninsulaHorn

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3 Sligo

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6 Loch Key & Boyle

7 Parkes Castle

8 Donegal

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WB Yeats statue, Sligo

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Inishowen PeninsulaUndiscovered by so many,

this glorious corner in the farnorthwest has possibly the finestscenery in Ireland, with the spec-tacular Slieve Snaght Mountainin the centre, Foyle and Swillylakes to east and west, and thedune-fringed beaches facing theAtlantic. The peninsula also hasits share of dramatic headlandsand boasts Ireland’s most north-westerly point at Malin Head. d Co Donegal • Map K4

Glenveagh National ParkThe extraordinary quartzite

cone of Mount Errigal dominatesthe Derryveagh mountain rangein this wild part of Donegal. Itoverlooks the Glenveagh NationalPark, which incorporates thebeautiful Lough Veagh Valley, andPoisoned Glen. One theorybehind the name is that Britishsoldiers were fed Irish spurge, apoisonous plant indigenous tothe area, to murder them. d CoDonegal • Map K4 • Open mid-Apr–Sep:10:30am–6:30pm daily • Dis. access • Adm

SligoThis busy market town is

home to the excellent ModelArts Centre, which incorporatesthe Niland Collection of Jack BYeats’s paintings, as well as

quirky, arty shops, good book-shops and fine restaurants. Tothe east of town is the lovelyLough Gill, with a number ofwoodland walks. The broodingoutline of Ben Bulben Mountainand the beaches of Strandhill andRosses Point are only 10 minutes’drive away. d Co Sligo • Map L3

Horn HeadThis dramatic 180-m (600-ft)

rockface is home to hundreds ofseabirds, including guillemots,gulls and puffins, which swoop inand out of the crevices hewninto the rock. The headland iscovered in purple heather andthe views over the Atlantic arestupendous. d Co Donegal • Map K4

Lissadell and DrumcliffeJust north of Sligo is Drum-

cliffe church, where WB Yeats(see p34) is buried, and thevisitors’ centre focuses on itemsand books relating to the poet.The area was a great inspirationto Yeats and he was a frequentvisitor at the rather forbiddingLissadell House a few miles tothe west. Lissadell was home tothe Gore-Booth family, who wereactive in the fight for Irishfreedom. d Carney, Co Sligo • Map L3• Lissadell House: Call for opening times071 916 3150, Dis. access, Adm

Lissadell House

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The GaeltachtsThe area around Donegal is oneof the largest Gaelic-speaking

(Gaeltacht) regions of the country.Until the 17th century most of theIrish population spoke Gaelic, theonly other language being Latin.Once the British took over the

country the language diminished,apart from these pockets of

Gaelic speakers, fiercely clingingon to their native culture.

Loch Key and BoyleOne of the best spots for

viewing this magnificent lake isfrom the main Sligo-to-Boyleroad. The Loch Key Forest Parkhas numerous walks along thelakeside and through the woods.Boyle is an appealing nearbytown with a ruined abbey,interesting museum and somefine Georgian architecture. d CoRoscommon • Map M3

Parke’s CastleBuilt by a Captain Robert

Parke in 1609, and overlookingLough Gill, this fortified manorhouse was erected on the site ofan earlier tower house. Thefoundations and moat of thisearlier structure are incorporatedinto the castle but otherwise it isa fine example of a plantationhouse. You can visit the castle byroad or by boat on the Lough Gillcruise. d Nr Dromahair, Co Leitrim •Map L3 • Open mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–6pmdaily; last adm 5:15pm • Adm

DonegalDonegal is most famous for

its tweed production (see p125)with Magee’s the biggest manu-facturer based here. TheDiamond, a triangular centralmarket, is at the heart of the townand an obelisk in the centrecommemorates four Franciscanswho wrote Annals of the FourMasters in the 1630s. Thisextraordinary opus follows thehistory of the Gaelic people fromthe Great Flood up to the 17thcentury. d Co Donegal • Map L4

KillybegsAn exciting place to be

when the boats come in, Killy-begs is one of the busiest fishingports in the country. As thetrawlers unload their catchesgulls squawk over the water inan attempt to claim a discardedmorsel. d Co Donegal • Map L3

LetterkennyDonegal’s largest town is

flanked by the DerryveaghMountains to the west and theSperrin Mountains to the east.Its main street, said to be thelongest in Ireland, is overlookedby the Neo-Gothic St Eunan’sCathedral. The County Museumhas a good display on localhistory. d Co Donegal • Map K4Parke’s Castle

St Eunan’s Cathedral, Letterkenny

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GavarogueSophisticated and under-

stated bar-restaurant beside theriver. The excellent cooking ismodern Irish. d 15–16 St Stephen St,Sligo, Co Sligo • Map L3 • 071 914 0100 •Dis. access • €€€

Kealey’s Seafood BarBeside the pier, this

atmospheric restaurant-barserves first-class seafood and arange of meat and vegetariandishes. Traditional music mostSundays. d Greencastle, Co Donegal •Map K5 • 074 938 1010 • €€€

Hargadon’s PubAn institution in Sligo, this is

a real old-fashioned, dark-beamed pub. There’s a warren ofrooms with benched snugsgiving privacy and atmosphere.Good, hearty pub food. d Sligo, CoSligo • Map L3 • 071 917 0933 • €€

Golf ClubThe position of this club-

house is worth a visit just for theview, but the food is excellenttoo. Fill up on delicious freshseafood, then walk it off alongthe sandy beach. d Strandhill, CoSligo • Map L3 • 071 916 8188 • €€

Smuggler’s CreekTake a table with a view in

this family-run restaurantoverlooking the sweep of DonegalBay. The speciality is seafood butthey also provide a good range ofother dishes. d Rossnowlagh, CoDonegal • Map L3 • 071 985 2366 • €€€

Cromleach LodgeSignposted from the N4 at

Castlebaldwin, this restaurantand country house has beautifulviews of Lough Arrow moun-tains. Eating here is a gourmetexperience with simple dishesexpertly prepared. d Ballindoon,Boyle, Co Sligo • Map M3 • 071 916 5155 • Closed L • Dis. access • €€€€

Rathmullan HouseA grand country house

hotel, this could be described asan institution in Donegal.Gourmet dinners are served inthe Pavilion, a conservatory-typeroom maximizing natural light.d Rathmullan, Co Donegal • Map L3 • 074 915 8117 • Dis. access • €€€€

The Fleet InnThe restaurant above this

busy pub, right in the centre ofKillybegs, makes the very bestuse of the freshest fish. d Killybegs, Co Donegal • Map L3 • 074973 1518 • €€€

McGroarty’sThis popular pub offers

excellent and imaginative dishes,highly praised by locals andvisitors alike. d The Diamond,Donegal • Map L4 • 074 972 1049 •Closed D • Dis. access • €

Yeats’s TavernThis large, bustling tavern is a

popular stopping place on the wayto Donegal. Generous helpingsand a huge choice. d Drumcliffe, CoSligo • Map L3 • 071 916 3117 • €–€€

Places to Eat and DrinkAbove Hargadon’s

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals

€ under €25€€ €25–€35

€€€ €35–€55€€€€ €55–€70

€€€€€ over €70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

114

Ulster-American Folk Park

THE BRITISH ENCLAVE WHICH REMAINED IN IRELAND, after the rest of thecountry became independent in 1921, blends the two nations of which it

is a part. A distinctive society has developed here, especially the historiccultural divide between Nationalists (Catholics of Irish descent) and Loyalists(Protestants of English and Scottish descent) – each group has its own tradi-tions. Yet between Northern Ireland and the Republic there are more simi-larities than differences, from music, to food and drink, to the landscape –indeed, some of the north’s scenery is among the best in the country.

Northern Ireland

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5 Lower Loch Erne

6 Armagh

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CastleCoole

Florence Court

MountStewart House

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Larne

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Cookstown

PortrushBushmills

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HillsboroughLurganPortadown

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Moy Portaferry

ArdglassNewcastle

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Portstewart

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Letterkenny

MonaghanEnniskillen

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International

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Glensof Antrim

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Castle CooleThe mansion built in the

1790s for the Earl of Belmore byJames Wyatt stands grandly atthe end of a long driveway and isset in impressive grounds. Thehouse has been almost com-pletely rebuilt in its original Neo-Classical style as commissionedby the first earl, while thesumptuous interior is richlydecorated with elaborateplasterwork. The lavish 18th- and19th-century Regency furnish-ings are those favoured by thesecond earl during the 1820s. d Nr Enniskillen • Map L4 • 028 66322690 • Open Easter–May & Sep: 1–6pmSat–Sun; May-Aug: 1–6pm Fri–Wed • Adm

Giant’s Causeway The Causeway, a designated

a World Heritage Site since1986, is a truly remarkablenatural spectacle, its thousandsof extraordinary hexagonal pillarsof basalt rock clustered like agigantic piece of honeycomb.The rocks descend from seafrontcliffs into the water anddisappear from view. Supposedlycreated by legendary warriorFinn MacCoul as his steppingstones to Scotland (see p38), theCauseway was really created bya volcanic eruption 60 millionyears ago. There’s a usefulvisitors’ centre nearby. d Map K5

Mount StewartThe grandly aristocratic 18th-

century home of the Marquisesof Londonderry displays a superbart collection, and stands inwonderful landscaped gardenswith remarkable plantcollections. There is someextraordinary topiary, exquisiteplanned views and numerousodd stonecarvings representingcreatures such as dodos anddinosaurs. Also in the grounds isthe elegant octagonal Temple ofthe Winds, a copy of a Classicalrelic near Athens. d StrangfordLough, near Newtownards • Map L6 •028 4278 8387 • House: Open Apr–Sep:noon–6pm daily (closed Tue, May & Sep);Gardens: May–Sep: 10am–8pm daily;Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm daily • Adm

Glens of AntrimAmong the finest scenery in

Ireland is the coast of CountyAntrim, where nine beautifulvalleys (glens) cut deeplythrough high rolling hills todescend grandly into the sea.The effect, seen from the shoreroad, is spectacular. Follow theA2 through Carnlough, with itstiny harbour, through Waterfoot,with waterfalls and a ForestPark, all the way up to theGiant’s Causeway. d Map K5

Lower Loch ErneThe serene waters and small

islands extending north fromEnniskillen can be explored byboat, or encircled by road.Devenish Island, reached fromthe east bank, is the remarkablesite of 6th-century monasticruins, a Celtic High Cross, and an80-ft (25-m) Round Tower. BoaIsland, reached by a causeway, isnoted for a strange double-facedCeltic stone carving. Anothergroup of curious stone figuresstands on White Island. d Map L4Giant’s Causeway

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City Hall, Belfast

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The Six CountiesThe nine counties of the Kingdom

of Ulster were the last part ofIreland to be subdued by the

English. Its conquest in 1607 ledto an exodus of Irish nobility,

whose lands were “planted” withBritish Protestants. When the Warof Independence created the Irish

Republic, six of the Ulstercounties remained British under

the name Northern Ireland.

ArmaghThe city where Queen

Macha built her fortress some3,000 years ago, Armagh has acurious role in Ulster’s religiousdivide. St Patrick based himselfhere, and the city is consideredthe ecclesiastical capital of bothcommunities, with a Catholic anda Protestant cathedral, eachdedicated to Patrick. The townalso has a good museum andastronomy centre. d Map L5

BelfastNorthern Ireland’s capital is

a vibrant Victorian city with goodshops, pubs, museums andgalleries. Call at the BelfastWelcome Centre for details ofthe attractions in and around thecity. d Map L6 • Belfast WelcomeCentre: Royal Ave; Open daily.

Ulster-American Folk Parkand Ulster History Park

Many Americans can trace theirroots back to 19th-century ruralUlster, and many, like local-bornmillionaire Thomas Mellon, didvery well in their new home. TheFolk Park, built around Mellon’sbirthplace, reconstructs theirlives on both sides of the Atlantic.The nearby History Park tells theregion’s rich story from the StoneAge up to the Protestant Planta-tion. d Near Omagh • Map L4 • OpenApr–Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri • Adm

Florence CourtThe gardens and grandiose

18th-century Palladian mansionoriginally belonged to Lord Mount-florence. Among the originalfeatures are an icehouse and awater-driven sawmill, while theinterior is decorated with orna-mental plasterwork and periodfurnishings. d A32, near Enniskillen • Map L4 • Open Apr & Sep: 1–6pm Sat–Sun; May–Aug: 1–6pm Wed–Mon • Adm

DerryAt the heart of Derry

(Londonderry) is a fascinatingwalled Plantation town, its 350-year-old fortifications almost intact.Free Derry Corner, where a wallis painted with the words “YouAre Now Entering Free Derry”, isthe most famous of the town’smany political murals. d Map K4

Armagh

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Note that, unlike the rest of Ireland, the currency in NorthernIreland has not changed to the euro but remains pounds sterling.

Nick’s WarehouseNick and Cathy Price’s

beautifully converted warehouserestaurant can be found onBelfast’s cobbled streets and hasa great atmosphere. d 35–9 HillStreet, Belfast • Map L6 • 028 9043 9690• Dis. access • ££

The Portaferry HotelThis restaurant on the

shores of Strangford Lough has ahigh reputation for top-qualityshellfish and other seafood,most of it from the waters of thelake. d The Strand, Portaferry • Map L6• 028 4272 8231 • Dis. access • ££

Bushmills InnIn the village that produces

Ulster’s finest whiskey is anatmospheric re-creation of an oldcoaching inn, with open fires andgas lighting. The menu rangesfrom local beef to fresh salmon.d 25 Main St, Bushmills • Map K6 • 0282073 2339 • Dis. access • ££

The Quays Bar andRestaurant

Fresh seafood is the mainattraction at this affordable andfriendly eating spot. d New HarbourRd, Portavogie • Map K6 • 028 4277 2225• Dis. access • £

The Lobster PotUnsurprisingly best known

for its lobster and other seafood,but also has a wide menu ofEuropean and Irish treats. d TheSquare, Strangford • Map K6 • 028 44881288 • £££

Shanks RestaurantHolder of a Michelin star,

Shanks Rrestaurant is designedby Sir Terence Conran and isdecorated with paintings byDavid Hockney. Menus changemonthly. d Blackwood Golf Centre, 150Crawfordsburn Rd, Bangor • Map K6 • 02891 853313 • Dis. access • £££

CayenneLively and different,

Cayenne’s menu comes from allover the world and the atmos-phere attracts a fashionableclientele. d 7 Lesley House, Shaftes-bury Sq, Belfast • Map L6 • 028 90331532 • Dis. access • £££

The Morning StarThis historic 19th-century

pub-restaurant hosts gourmetnights every month and alwaysfeatures fine local seafood, meatand poultry. d 17–19 Pottinger's Entry,Belfast • Map L6 • 028 9023 5986 • £

Crown Liquor SaloonLocal favourites are served

at this lovely old pub, such asIrish stew with champ – butterymashed potatoes and springonions. d 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast • Map K6 • 028 9027 9901 • £

Pier 36This award-winning pub

serves great seafood and localgame, and bakes its own breadon a range right in the middle ofthe dining area. d The Parade,Donaghadee • Map K6 • 028 9188 4466 •Dis. access • £

Places to EatAbove Crown Liquor Saloon

£ under £25££ £25–£35

£££ £35–£55££££ £55–£70

£££££ over £70

Price Categories

For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.

STREETSMARTGetting to Dublin

120

Getting Around Dublin121

Sources of Information122

Things to Avoid123

Dublin on a Budget124

Things to Buy125

Banking andCommunication

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Security and Health127

Hotel Listings128–135

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Getting to Dublinminute bargains andgeneral availability. Ryan-air has some very cheapdeals, with flights fromsome UK and Europeancities for as little as €12.

Dublin AirportDublin Airport is 12

km (7 miles) from thecity centre and hasrecently been enlargedand upgraded, easingovercrowding. d DublinAirport: 01-814 1111,www.dublinairport.com

Airport–CityConnections

Journey time varies,depending on traffic –morning and evening rushhours are best avoided.Airlink is an express busservice between the air-port and the city’s mainbus and rail stations.Buses run every 10minutes from early morn-ing to midnight; journeytime is 40 minutes. Air-coach (5:30am–10:30pm)picks up at various pointsin the city, costing €6.Tickets for both can bebought on board. Taxiscost around €18–20. d Airlink: 01-873 4222,www.dublinbus.ie • Aircoach: 01-844 7118,www.aircoach.ie

By Ferry from the UK

Irish Ferries operate acruise and fast ferryservice from Holyhead inWales to Dublin Port;Stena Line operates itsHigh Speed Superferryfrom Holyhead to Dun

By Air from the UK

British Airways, AerLingus and low-costairlines such as Ryanairrun regular flights toDublin and all major Irishcities. They depart fromLondon’s five airports(Heathrow, City, Gatwick,Luton and Stansted) andfrom 15 other UK citiesincluding Birmingham,Leeds and Glasgow, aswell as the Isle of Manand the Channel Islands.d Aer Lingus: 01-886 8888,www.aerlingus.com • British Airways: 1-800626747, www.britishairways.com • Ryanair: 01-6097800, www.ryanair.com

By Air fromEurope

Flights from most majorcities in Europe go directto Dublin, although someconnections are seasonal.Out of season flights arevia London, Amsterdamor Paris. All travellersfrom Australasia have tofly to Dublin via Europe.

By Air from North America

Aer Lingus and Delta AirLines fly direct fromvarious locations in theUSA to Dublin, and toShannon in the south-west. d Delta Air Lines: 1-800 768080,www.delta.com

Internet BargainsMost airlines now

have their own websitesfor booking flights andwill have details of last-

Laoghaire and a cruiseferry to Dublin Port.Crossing time is between90 minutes and 3.5 hours.Norse Merchant Ferriesruns a service fromLiverpool to Dublin Port.There are good transportlinks to the centre fromboth ports. d Irish Ferries:01-661 0715, www.irishferries.com • StenaLine: 01-204 7777, www.stenaline.co.uk • NorseMerchant Ferries: 01-8192999, www.norsemerchantferries.com

By Ferry fromEurope

Brittany Ferries runs acruise service fromRoscoff (22 hours) inFrance to Cork (see p90).d Brittany Ferries: 021-4277801, 08705-360360 (UK)www.brittanyferries.com

By Bus and CoachVarious companies

run services to Dublinand other Irish cities. BusEireann and Eurolinesoffer a day and nightservice from London viaHolyhead. Journey timeis 11–13 hours. d BusEireann: 01-836 6111, www.buseireann.ie • Eurolines:www.eurolines.com

By TrainTrain-and-ferry

journey time is muchquicker than by coachbut, with bargain airfaresavailable, neither may bean economical alternative.d National Rail EnquiryService: www.rail.co.uk;www.irishrail.ie

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LuasA new light railway

system is currently underconstruction in Dublin. Thefirst three lines (A: Tallaghtto Abbey Street; B:Sandyford to St Stephen’sGreen; and C: AbbeyStreet to Connolly Station)are due to open in 2004.A fourth line, B1, fromSandyford to Cherrywood,and a fifth, from ConnollyStation to Docklands, arein the pipeline. d Luas:www.luas.ie

WalkingThe centre of Dublin

is compact and easy towalk around, and increa-sing numbers of streetsare being pedestrianized.

TaxisTaxi ranks can be

found at the airport, mainstations, large hotels anda few designated areasaround the city. Fares aremetered, with the baserate around €3. Taxis canbe hailed in the street. dAccess/Metro cabs: 01-6683333 • National Radio Cabs:01-677 2222

Rental CarsAll the main car

rental companies havedesks at the airport andin the city. A full drivinglicence is required andage restriction is gene-rally between 23 and 70years. Rental usuallyincludes unlimitedmileage and third partyfire and theft insurance.d Murrays/Europcar: 01-6142800, www.europcar.ie

City BusesDublin Bus runs a

comprehensive networkaround the city, every10–20 minutes from 6amto 11:30pm. All busesoperate an autofare sys-tem so make sure youhave change or a travelpass. One-day, three-day,five-day, weekly ormonthly travel passes areavailable from touristcentres and some news-agents. Nitelink Busesoperate every 20 minutesfrom 12:30am to 2amMonday to Wednesday,and from 12:30am to4:30am Thursday toSaturday from Westmore-land Street, D’OlierStreet, College Green, StStephen’s Green andO’Connell Street. Travelpasses are not valid onthese buses, which havea flat charge of €4–6.Green and cream busstops are for the Hop-On-Hop-Off tourist busesand are situated at 16major tourist pointsaround the city. d DublinBus: 01-873 4222,www.dublinbus.ie

DARTDART (Dublin Area

Rapid Transport) is anelectric train servicecovering 28 stations frompicturesque Malahideand Howth to the northof the city to Greystonesin County Wicklow, witha few city centre stops.The last train leaves thetown centre at 11:30pm. d DART: 01-836 6222,www.irishrail.ie

Road RulesCity and town speed

limits are 50 kmph, out-skirts are 80 kmph, with100 kmph on open roadsand 120 kmph onmotorways. Speedcameras are in frequentuse and on-the-spot finescan be issued by thepolice. Road signs comein both English and Irishand kilometres and miles.

Petrol StationsMost rental cars now

take unleaded fuel, butleaded and diesel arealso available. Thenearest petrol stations tothe centre are atBallsbridge, Donnybrookand Usher’s Quay.

ParkingThere is plenty of

parking available in thecentre, with electronicsigns at various strategicpoints giving up-to-the-minute availability ofspaces. Clamping is inoperation throughoutDublin for illegal parking.

TrainsIreland’s train service

is operated by Irish Rail(Iarnrod Eireann), withtrains to most cities andmain towns. Directservices are efficient butsome areas such asDonegal (see p112) arenot served by the railwayand there are no coastalroutes in the south, eastor north, so these areasmust be explored by caror bus. d Irish Rail:www.irishrail.ie

Getting Around Dublin

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Sources of Informationgenerally around €2 for15 minutes. Publiclibraries also offerInternet access. Mostmajor attractions havetheir own websites.

DrivingIreland has one of

the highest percentagesof driving fatalities inEurope. Drink-driving is aproblem and speed limitsare often ignored, thougha new “penalty points”system is improving thesituation. Congestion intowns is high, but ruralroads are relativelytraffic-free. Even mainroads may have only twolanes – pull onto thehard-shoulder to let othersovertake. Speed limitsare 120 kmph (74mph) onmotorways, 100 kmph (62 mph) on main roads,50 kmph (31 mph) intowns. Drive on the left.Yellow lines indicate park-ing restrictions. All typesof fuel are available.

Road SignsIreland uses Europe’s

international pictorialsystem of road signs.Confusing signs that givetwo alternative routes tothe same place withoutstating the distances arecommonplace in ruralIreland. When given,distances may beapproximate. Officially,the Republic useskilometres (green signs),but many roadsigns arein miles (white signs).Often, place names aregiven in Irish and English.

Irish Tourist BoardThe main tourist

office in Dublin is veryhelpful with informationon tourist sights, hotelaccommodation and anyother visitors’ needs. d Irish Tourist Board:Baggot St Bridge • 1850230330 • www.ireland-travel.ie

Discounts andConcessions

There are reductions onentrance tickets to manyhistoric sites and attrac-tions, on some transport,and even on someaccommodation and travelpackages within Ireland,for students, children,the unemployed, seniorcitizens and families.Carry appropriate photoID. To visit several sightsat a discount, buy aHeritage Card (see p124).

Business HoursMost shops and

businesses are open 9amto 5pm, Monday to Friday.Banks open Monday toFriday 10am to 4pm(sometimes until 5pm onThursday); post officesMonday to Friday 9am to5:30pm, Saturday 9am to12:30pm. Pubs openMonday to Thursday10:30am to 11:30pm,Friday to Saturday10:30am to 12:30am,Sunday 12:30pm to 11pm.

InternetIreland is fully online,

with cyber cafés in mosttowns, and several inDublin. Charges are

ClimateThe weather in

Ireland is wet and mild allyear round, but generallywithout extremes. Itrarely freezes except onuplands, while summercan see some hot spells.

Embassies andConsulates

Britain and the US bothhave embassies in Dublin(see box). Most othercountries have anembassy or consulate inthe city – consult theYellow Pages.

TippingService charges of

10–15 per cent are addedto bills in hotels and res-taurants. Tip taxi driversaround 10 per cent, por-ters 50 cents or €1. Barstaff need not be tipped.

Northern IrelandThe border crossing

between the Republicand Northern Ireland isnormally simple, withfew formalities. However,check with car rentalcompanies that you maytake the vehicle acrossthe border, which is stilla national frontier.

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Opening times of museums and other sights vary and are givennext to their appropriate entries in this guide.

Embassies

British Embassy

29 Merrion Rd • MapG5 • 01 205 3700

US Embassy

42 Elgin Rd, Balls-bridge • Bus Nos. 7,8 • 01 668 8777

123

leave anything visible inthe car to tempt a break-in. Like any capital city,beware of pickpockets.Don’t put temptation intheir way by leaving bagsopen and valuables visible.

Rush Hour Traffic The traffic has got

much worse in Dublinover the last few yearsand the rush hour lastsfrom about 8–9:30amand 5–7pm so allow extratime if you need to travelbetween these times.This is particularly impor-tant on the route to theairport, on which trafficproblems are currentlyexacerbated by the build-ing of the Port Tunnel.

Theft Dublin’s pub culture

is a major part of itscharm and character, butwhen pubs becomecrowded they are a havenfor petty thieves. Keepyour money in your bagand your bag on your lapor where you can see itat all times. Even better,wear a money belt.

Drinking in HotelsIt is best to avoid

drinking in hotel barsunless money is noobject. Prices are alwayshigher than in local barsand pubs, and a gratuitymay be added.

TaxisThere has been a

problem with a lack oftaxis around the city forlate-night revellers. If you

Drink-driving There are very strict

drink-driving laws inIreland and you can bestopped and breatha-lysed at any time. Withinthe city, most places canbe reached on foot, andrestaurants are veryhappy to call cabs.

Unsafe AreasIt is unwise to

wander around any badlylit areas of any city atnight, and Dublin is noexception. It is alsoadvisable not to walkaround on your own lateat night. There are areasof the city that have areputation for being moredangerous than others –the northside is a bitrough after dark, so stickto the main thorough-fares such as O’ConnellStreet (see p61) and thequays. On the southside,around Dolphin’s Barn,beyond Portobello, is anotorious area for drug-related crime, so avoidthat both day and night,and similarly Summerhilloff Gardiner Street onthe northside. Howeverneither of these areashas anything to draw thetourist so you are unlikelyto find yourself thereunless lost.

CarryingValuables

It is always a mistake tocarry valuables aroundwith you when you’resightseeing, so leavethem in the hotel safe. Ifyou’re driving, never

are at a restaurant orclub ask the waiter to callfor one rather than tryingyour luck on the street.Recent deregulation mayimprove the situation andhopefully bring morecabs onto the street.

Parking Fines Dublin’s traffic

wardens are very sharpand quite thick on theground, so make sureyou don’t overrun yourtime as you’ll be finedimmediately. Clampersare also about all overthe city, and it is time-consuming and expen-sive to get released.

InternationalRugby Weekends

From January to May theSix Nations Cup is playedout between Italy, Wales,Scotland, Ireland, Franceand England with matchesin the various countries.These weekends arebest avoided, unlessyou’re a rugby fan – hotelprices increase and thecity is overcrowded.

CountrywidePublic Transport

The public transportsystem around Ireland isgenerally poor (seep121). There is a railservice to the main citiesfrom Dublin but it isdifficult to tour from oneplace to another as railand bus links are limited.If you need to use publictransport make sure youhave researched yourroute beforehand.

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Dublin on a BudgetCard (ISIC) for somemuseums, and rail andbus travel. Train discountcards include Irish Rail’sIrish Rover card, but youneed to be covering quitea distance to make itworthwhile. The mostuseful in Ireland is thecombined bus and railpass, the Irish ExplorerTicket. It covers allIntercity train and buslines and the DART inDublin (see p121).

Cheap EateriesThere is no shortage

of these in the city,including McDonald’s andBurger King, Beshoffs forfish and chips and alimitless supply of cafésand juice bars. Mostsmall towns have a take-away of some descriptionand garages and Sparshops throughout thecountry usually have ahot food counter. You canalso get take-aways fromsome supermarkets.

Bicycle HireThis is a cheap and

fast way of getting aboutand Dublin is smallenough for this to be asensible option.However, few companiesnow rent bikes, due toinsurance costs. IrishCycling Safaris is basedin Belfield universitycampus. Charges rangefrom about €18 per dayto €80 per week. Bikesare easy to steal so makesure you have a goodpadlock and chain. d IrishCycling Safaris: 260 0749

Sightseeing for Free

Most of the propertiesowned and run by Duchas,the State HeritageService, are reasonablypriced, while all nationalmuseums, galleries andlibraries are free. There isa minimal charge for entryto some city churchesbut around the countrythey are generally free.

Sightseeing at a Discount

Sights and museums areeither privately or state-run so discounts varyfrom site to site. Onaverage, the concessionsgiven for children, over60s and students workout at about one third ofthe price of the full adultticket. If you are planningto visit a number ofhistoric sights, it is worthinvesting in a HeritageCard costing around €20for adults and €7.50 forchildren and students. Itis valid for one year fromthe date of purchase. Youcan buy the card at thefirst Duchas site you visitor send for one from theirwebsite. The NationalTrust offers a similar dealfor properties in NorthernIreland. dDuchas: www.heritageireland.ie • NationalTrust: www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Discount Travel Cards

Youth and studentdiscounts are available onpresentation of anInternational Student ID

Cross-CountryBuses

Ireland’s public transportnetwork is not brilliant(see p121). Trains link themain towns and citiesbut getting from oneregional town to anotheris not easy. On intercityroutes it is much cheaperto go by bus.

HostelAccommodation

There are numeroushostels around the coun-try. Many of the Dublinones are of a goodquality and you can getsingle and even doublerooms at very low prices.

Big BreakfastsThe full Irish break-

fast in hotels is a hugeaffair and will set you upfor the day.

Off-season TravelTravelling out of

season and avoidingspecial weekends willsave you money. Pricesare hiked up duringRugby Internationalweekends (see p123), StPatrick’s weekend (seep41) and other bankholidays. In winter thereare excellent hotel deals.

ShoppingCarefully

Many items are nocheaper in Ireland thanelsewhere, includingtweeds. Seek outmarkets and craft shopswhere you could pick uporiginal items for muchless than in stores.

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Another option for cheap accommodation in Ireland are theuniversities during student holiday times.

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made as clothing or offthe bale as lengths ofcloth. Hats and waist-coats are popular andcome in a variety oftweeds. Most smalleritems are widely availablein tourist shops, but forthe full tweed suit you’dbe better off with thespecialist. Try Kevin andHowlin (see p57).

JewelleryYou can find Celtic

jewellery in some formor another all over thecity, but be careful of thequality. For the best intraditional and contem-porary jewellery go toWhichcraft in Temple Bar(see p19). This will giveyou an idea of top qualityand prices. If you’refeeling adventurous youcan commission a piece.There is a huge varietyon offer all over the coun-try, from ancient Celtic tomodern designs.

MusicalInstruments

The penny whistle is oneof the most commonlyfound traditional Irishmusical instruments andcheap replicas can befound all over the city.Enquire in a proper musicshop if you are lookingfor a decent one. Thebodhrán is a goatskinhandheld drum; this toois widely reproduced butthe good ones need tobe specially sought out.Handmade harps are aparticular speciality inDublin and Mayo.

LinenIreland is world

famous for its linen andthere are some beautiful,original designs to befound. There is usually aselection on offer in mosttourist shops. The choiceincludes embroideredbedcovers and table-cloths, linen pillowcasesand duvet covers. At theless grand end of thescale, small embroideredhandkerchiefs make goodgifts and tea towels canbe found everywhere.

Woollen JerseysIreland is justly

renowned for its terrificjerseys, and the Aran isthe most famous. It canbe fun to buy them in thewest of Ireland if you’retravelling around, althoughthe range is probablybetter in Dublin. Thelarger department stores,specialist jersey outletsand tourist shops are thebest places to try.

CeramicsThere are a number

of excellent contempo-rary pottery companiesavailable in most of thelarger department storessuch as Brown Thomasor Avoca Handweavers(see p75). But search outcraft shops for originalpieces by individuals.

TweedOne of the most

famous tweed-producingareas is Donegal (seep112) where tweed canbe bought either ready-

Smoked SalmonIrish smoked salmon

is world famous and iswidely exported. Much ofit is farmed these daysso seek out wild salmon;the taste is far superior.Wrights of Howth (seep75) has outlets at theairport and at Howth, butmost fishmongers stockwild salmon.

WhiskeyJamesons (see p63)

is probably the bestknown Irish brand and isa fine smooth blend;Bushmills is also a popu-lar whiskey produced inthe north. For everydaywhiskey drinking theaverage Irish personwould probably settle forPowers – an altogetherrougher experience.

Crystal andGlassware

Waterford Crystal is thebest known producer ofglassware in Ireland (seep83) but other qualityproducers exist. GalwayIrish Crystal andTipperary Crystal are twocontenders, with JerpointGlass tending towardscontemporary design.

Chocolates andCheese

The Irish are very good atproducing chocolates andthe leading brand namesare Bewley’s and Lir.Ireland is also famous forits cheeses. Cashel Blue,Doolin and Durrus areonly a few of a largenumber worth sampling.

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Banking and CommunicationsExchangingMoney

For all foreign currenciesoutside of the EMU, thebanks offer the best ratesof exchange. Bureaux dechange rates vary butthey are likely to bebetter than hotel rates ifthe banks are closed.Some department storesoffer exchange facilities.

PostMost post offices

open from 9am to5:30pm Monday to Fridayand 9am to 1pm, 2:15pmto 5pm on Saturdays. TheGeneral Post Office inO’Connell Street (seep62) is open all day,seven days a week, butstamps can also bepurchased from somenewsagents and shops.Post boxes in Ireland aregreen. The easiest way toreceive mail in Dublin isto have it sent to yourhotel but a poste restanteservice is also availablefrom major post offices.

TelephonesThe majority of phone

booths are controlled byTelecom Eireann(Eircom). Public pay-phones are easy to findand the wording aroundthe top of each boothindicates whether it takescoins, phonecards orcredit cards – most inDublin are now card-operated. The cheapesttime to make calls isafter 6pm and at week-ends. Calls made fromhotels can be expensive.

BanksAllied Irish Bank

(AIB), the Bank ofIreland, the Ulster Bank,the National Irish Bank,and the TSB are the fiveretail banks in theRepublic. They are openMonday to Friday, 10amto 4pm. ATMs (cash-points) are located out-side most banks in thecity, and are the fastestand cheapest way to getlocal currency, drawingmoney directly from youraccount, if you belong toa co-operating bank. AllUK cashcards can beused at these machines.

CurrencyIreland joined the

European MonetaryUnion in 1999, with 11other EU countries, andthe euro has been thesole legal tender sinceearly 2002. Coin denomi-nations are 1, 2, 5, 10, 20and 50 cents, while notescome in denominationsof 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200and 500 euros. There are100 cents to 1 euro.

Credit Cards and Travellers’

ChequesVisa and MasterCard arethe most widely accep-ted cards; AmericanExpress and Diners Clubless so. You can with-draw cash from ATMsusing credit cards.Travellers’ cheques arestill the safest way tocarry money but the riseof ATMs is fast supplant-ing the need for them.

PhonecardsPre-paid phonecards,

available in severaldenominations, areuseful for long distancecalls. These, as well ascard-credits for mobilephones, can be bought at newsagents, postoffices, supermarketsand other retail outlets.

InternetYou can find an

Internet café in mostareas of Dublin and somehotels also offer Internetfacilities. Failing that, trythe nearest public libraryor post office.

NewspapersThe Republic of

Ireland has six nationaldaily papers and fiveSunday papers. Qualitydailies include the IrishTimes, the IrishIndependent and theExaminer. Ireland’s dailytabloid is the Star andthe evening paper is theEvening Herald. AllBritish papers are on salethroughout Dublin andlarger newsagents stockinternational newspapers.

Radio andTelevision

Ireland has fourtelevision channels: RTE1, Network 2, TV3 andTG4. There are sixnational radio stationsincluding an Irish langu-age service, and manylocal ones. The fiveBritish channels can bepicked up through cableand satellite connections.

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available at post offices.To avoid paying for anytreatments or prescribedmedicines in the event ofserious illness, you willneed to show your E111and some identification,such as a driving licenceor passport. Make surethat the doctor treatingyou knows you have anE111 form. Visitors fromoutside the EU areadvised to take out theirown accident and healthinsurance before travellingor be willing to pay fortreatment received.

PharmaciesAn extensive range

of medical supplies isavailable over the counterat pharmacies but manymedicines can only beobtained with a prescrip-tion from a local doctor.If you have, or are likelyto have, any specialmedical needs it is worthhaving a letter from yourown doctor giving thegeneric name of anymedication you mightrequire. There is a latenight pharmacy inO’Connell Street (seep61). d O’Connell’s LateNight Pharmacy: 55O’Connell St, Dublin 1, 01-873 0427

DentistsFor emergency

dental treatment you cango to the Dublin DentalHospital in Lincoln Place.They also have an after-hours answering servicegiving appropriateinformation. Conor

Emergencynumbers

Dial 999 or 112 in anemergency and you willbe connected to theservice you require –police, fire, ambulance or coastguard.

PoliceThe police force in

the Irish Republic iscalled the GardaSiochana. An individualmale police officer iscalled a garda and afemale police officer iscalled a bean garda.

HospitalsBeaumont, St

James’s and St Vincent’shospitals all have a 24-hour accident andemergency department.Dublin Dental Hospitalserves emergency dental needs and the Eyeand Ear Royal VictoriaHospital has an out-patient surgery everyday. d Beaumont Hospital:Beaumont Rd, Dublin 9, 01-809 2714 • St James’sHospital: St James’s St,Dublin 8, 01-416 2775 • St Vincent’s UniversityHospital: Elm Park, Dublin4, 01-209 4504/4387 •Dublin Dental Hospital:Lincoln Place, Dublin 2, 01-612 7200 • Eye & EarHospital: Adelaide Rd,Dublin 2, 01-664 4600

Medical ChargesEU visitors can claim

free medical treatment inthe Republic of Ireland ifthey have a form E111from their own country,

Gallagher dentist ishappy to deal with visitoremergencies. d ConorGallagher: Fenian Street,Dublin 2, 01-678 8158

Personal SafetyStreet crime does

exist in Dublin, as in anycapital city, but sensibleprecautions should besufficient to keep you outof trouble. Avoid backstreets or poorly lit areasat night. Don’t carryaround obviouslyexpensive equipment,which will draw attention.If you are unluckyenough to be mugged orattacked, inform thepolice straight away.

Theft To avoid theft, don’t

leave things unattendedin restaurants or gal-leries. If you have a car,lock everything in theboot (trunk) where itcannot be seen.

Lost PropertyIf you have any

property stolen, report itto the police immediately– you cannot make aninsurance claim withoutthe police report. Themain bus and rail stationshave lost property offices.

Street BeggingThere are quite a lot

of homeless peoplebegging in the streets inDublin, but they aregenerally unaggressiveand it is a personalchoice whether you givehandouts or not.

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Luxury HotelsThe WestburyFor 5-star luxury you

can’t do better than thisGrafton Street hotel – theaccommodation of choicefor politicians andcelebrities. It even hasits own shopping mall ifyou can’t face thecrowds outside. d Grafton St • Map E5 • 01-679 1122 • www.jurysdoyle.com • €€€€€

Berkeley CourtThis elegant hotel in

traditional style is fiveminutes by car from thecentre. It pampers its,often high-profile, guestsfrom the minute theywalk through the door.Standard rooms providebathrobes and slippers,while executive roomshave stunning four-posterbeds. d Lansdowne Rd •DART Lansdowne Road •01-660 1711 • www.jurysdoyle.com • €€€€€

Four Seasons Hotel

In the prestigiousresidential district ofBallsbridge, just 10minutes by car from thecity centre, is this luxurychain hotel with all thefacilities one mightexpect: fitness centreand swimming pool,business facilities and259 well-equippedrooms. A good choice ifyou want luxury awayfrom the hub of the city.d Simmonscourt Rd,Ballsbridge • DARTSandymount • 01-665 4000• €€€€€

The MerrionDublin’s finest hotel

may seem unimpressivefrom the outside, butinside it is the embodi-ment of Georgianelegance, with ornateplasterwork, antiques,Irish fabrics and marblebathrooms. The modernworld hasn’t beenforgotten – there is also aswimming pool, gym andbusiness facilities. d Merrion St • Map G5 • 01-603 0600 • www.merrionhotel.com • €€€€€

The ClarenceThis 19th-century

building has been spec-tactularly renovated bythe Irish rock band U2,blending wood panellingwith cutting edgemodern design. Locatedin the buzzing Temple Bararea (see pp18–19) andoverlooking the Liffey, ithas fast become one ofthe most elegant placesto stay in the city. d 6–8Wellington Quay • Map D4• 01-407 0800 • www.theclarence.com • €€€€€

The ShelbourneFrom the moment

you enter the wrought-iron canopied entrance tothis beautiful hotel,greeted by the liverieddoorman, you will beoverawed by the graceand charm that havebrought loyal customershere since the 19thcentury. A true Dublininstitution. d 27 StStephen’s Green • Map F6• 01-676 6471 • €€€€€

ConradInternational

This recently refurbishedand comfortable modernhotel is convenientlysituated just around thecorner from St Stephen’sGreen. d Earlsfort Terrace• Map F6 • 01-676 5555 • www.conraddublin.com • €€€€€

MorrisonGiven that it was

renovated by fashiondesigner and Dublinresident John Rocha, it isunsurprising that behindthe Georgian façade ofthe Morrison hides aninterior of supreme style.White walls, Irish carpetsand contemporary art aresome of its attractions. d Ormond Quay • Map D3• 01-878 2999 • www.morrisonhotel.ie • €€€€€

The FitzwilliamThis award-winning

hotel, designed by theConran partnership,boasts luxurious roomsand the largest roofgarden in the country.d St Stephen’s Green • Map F6 • 01-478 7000 • €€€€€

The DavenportHoused in a beautiful

Georgian building, theDavenport retainstraditional style whileoffering all modernfacilities. Its bar takesthe theme of presidentsaround the world, and isdecorated with portraits.d Merrion Sq • Map G5 • 01-607 3500 • €€€€

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The BurlingtonA traditional hotel in

style with dark wood,chandeliers and chintzfabrics, the Burlington isnevertheless home toDoyle’s, a thoroughlymodern and lively Irishcabaret featuring song,dance and tall stories. d Upper Leeson St • MapF6 • 01-660 5222 • www.jurysdoyle.com • €€€€€

The SchoolhouseConverted from a

19th-century schoolhousewhich saw some actionduring the Easter Rising(see p31), many originalfeatures have beenretained at this unusual4-star hotel. Formerclassrooms have beenconverted into arestaurant and bar –fortunately the modernIrish food is far betterthan school dinners!d Northumberland Rd,Ballsbridge • DARTLansdowne Road • 01-6675014 • €€€€€

Brooks HotelWith its dark wood

foyer and bar and royalblue carpets, Brooksexudes old-world style.Downstairs, however, isFrancesca’s restaurant,with a more moderndecor, reflecting its menuof fine modern Irish food(see p49). Set in a quietstreet, the lively pubsand bars around GraftonStreet are just minutesaway. d Drury St • Map E5• 01-670 4000 • www.sinnotthotels.com • €€€€€

The GreshamConveniently located

on bustling O’ConnellStreet (see p61), Dublin’soldest hotel has recentlybeen refurbished, butWaterford crystalchandeliers still add atouch of 19th-centuryelegance. d O’Connell St• Map F2 • 01-874 6881 •www.gresham.ie • €€€€

Herbert ParkA beautiful modern

hotel, with floor to ceilingwindows looking out overthe surrounding parkland.Contemporary Irish artdecorates communalareas, including thelounge and restaurant.d Ballsbridge • DARTSandymount • 01-667 2200• www.herbertparkhotel.ie• €€€€€

HibernianFor those who prefer

quieter surroundings. Anelegant, early 20th-century building withvery comfortable rooms.d Eastmoreland Place,Ballsbridge • Bus No. 10 • 01-668 7666 • www.hibernianhotel.com • €€€€€

The MorganAll pale walls and

beechwood furniture, theMorgan encapsulates thecontemporary style ofthe Temple Bar area withits minimalist design. Itcan be noisy on thestreets, so try for top-floor rooms. d Fleet St,Temple Bar • Map E3 • 01-679 3939 • www.themorgan.com • €€€€

Clarion HotelStephens Hall

On the edge of StStephen’s Green, thismember of the Clarionhotel chain has beensmartly decorated. Notas unusual as some ofDublin’s top hotels, butmakes for a comfortableand central stay. d 14–17Lower Leeson St • Map F6• 01-638 1111 • www.premgroup.com • €€€€

Chief O’NeillsA wonderful

futuristic-style hotel inthe renovated Smithfieldarea. It is named after a19th-century Irish-bornChicago Chief of Police,Francis O’Neill.Panoramic views ofDublin can be seen fromthe Smithfield Chimneyin front of the hotel (seep66). d Smithfield Market• Map C3 • 01-817 3838 • www.chiefoneills.com • €€€€

Trinity CapitalThis new hotel

overlooking the walls ofTrinity College has paidattention to every detail,combining Art Decoinfluences with a moderntwist. Most striking areits oversized lilac sofas inthe foyer, and wonderfulsculptures. Just in caseDublin goes up in flames,avoid lower level rooms –the hotel is located nextto a fire station. Excel-lent Irish breakfast.d Pearse St • Map F4 • 01-648 1000 • www.capital-hotels.com • €€€€

Three- and Four-Star Hotels

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€ under €50€€ €50–100

€€€ €100–150€€€€ €150–200

€€€€€ over €200

Price Categories

For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

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Townhouse Hotelssightseeing, and there isa private car park behindthe hotel, which isalways a bonus in con-gested Dublin. d HarcourtSt • Map F5 • 475 3497 • www.harringtonhall.com • Dis. access • €€€€

Longfields HotelA relaxing place to

stay, with impeccableservice. It is decoratedwith period features suchas chandeliers and origi-nal plasterwork. dFitzwilliam St • Map E6 • 676 1367 • www.longfieldshotel.ie • Dis.access • €€€€

Trinity LodgeThe 15 rooms of this

Georgian townhouse areall elegantly decoratedand fully equipped, whilethe communal roomsbenefit from antique fur-niture. d 12 Frederick St • Map F5 • 679 5044 • www.trinitylodge.com • €€€–€€€€

AngleseaTownhouse

Just 10 minutes’ fromthe city centre by car,this early 20th-centuryhouse has been adaptedinto a small hotel withseven rooms. The break-fastis superb. d AngleseaRd • DART Sandymount • 668 3877 • €€€

BelcampHutchinson

This impressive 18th-century family mansion isstill privately owned,which is apparent in its

Browns HotelAs with most of

Dublin’s townhousehotels, Browns hasperfectly preserved theGeorgian setting, whileadding modern facilities,including TVs and writingdesks. The result is ablend of comfort andconvenience. d GardinerSt • Map F1 • 855 0034 • www.brownshotelireland.com • €€€

PembrokeTownhouse

Every detail here exudesclassic style, yet all theen-suite rooms are fullyequipped with modernfacilities including cableTV. Traditional Irishbreakfast. d 90 PembrokeRd • Bus No. 10 • 660 0277• www.pembroketownhouse.ie • Dis. access• €€€

ButlersTownhouse

Each of the 20 roomshere has an individualdecor, yet the feel of theplace is like a friendlycountry house, withsofas around the lounge’sfireplace. d LansdowneRd • DART LansdowneRoad • 667 4022 • www.butlers-hotels.com • Dis.access €€€€

Harrington HallA collection of

Georgian houses werecombined together in1998 to provide 28meticulous rooms. TheIrish breakfast is anexcellent start to a day of

loving renovation into aplush hotel, combiningtraditional style with allmodern amenities. Golfand horse-riding areavailable nearby if you’relooking for outdooractivity. The city centre is15 minutes’ and theairport 10 minutes’ driveaway. d Balgriffin • BusNo. 42 • 846 0843 •www.belcamphutchinson.com • €€€

Baggot CourtA short walk from St

Stephen’s Green and theshopping hub of the cityon Grafton Street, thisconverted Georgiantownhouse makes anunusual but attractiveplace to stay, as well asan affordable one. Theprice includes a full Irishbreakfast. Smokersshould be aware that thewhole establishment isnon-smoking. d LowerBaggot St • Map F6 • 6612819 • €€€

Hotel St GeorgeThe period staircase

in this convertedGeorgian house is one ofits most striking features,as well as the glisteningcrystal chandeliers madefrom Waterford glass(see p83). The hotel isconveniently situated forall the literary sightsnorth of the Liffey suchas the Dublin Writers’Museum (see p62), so itis an ideal place for booklovers. d Parnell Sq • MapE1 • 874 5611 • Dis. access• €€€

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cleverly blending periodfurnishings with modernamenities. d Harcourt St • Map E5 • 475 1092 • €€€

BrownesTownhouse

If you want a treat in theheart of the city, head forthis boutique hotel, oncehome to the Earl of Shel-bourne. The brasserie isalso celebrated. d 22 StStephen’s Green • Map E6• 01-638 3939 • www.brownesdublin.com • €€€€€

Waterloo HouseThis 4-star guest-

house is family-run andoffers 17 fully equippedbedrooms in its three-storey Georgian house. Italso benefits from aprivate car park, which isuseful as the city centreis 10 minutes’ driveaway. d Waterloo Rd,Ballsbridge • DARTLansdowne Road • 6601888 • Dis. access • €€€

King SitricBetter known as a

fabulous fish restaurant(see p77), the King Sitrichas recently branchedout into hotel accommo-dation, with eightbeautiful guestrooms, allcharmingly named afterlocal lighthouses andoverlooking the sea.Enjoy the bustle of thecity by day, then return tothis haven of seasidecalm. d East Pier, Howth • DART Howth • 832 5235• www.kingsitric.ie • Dis.access • €€€€

Number 31This unique hotel

compries two coachhouses (converted byIrish architect SamStephenson in 1958)connected by privategardens to a classicGeorgian house. Withjust 21 guestrooms it’s alovely place to stay, notleast because all ofDublin’s sights are withinwalking distance. d 31Leeson Close • Map F6 • 676 5011 • €€€€

Cedar Lodge Opposite the British

Embassy and RDSgrounds, this 4-starguesthouse provides allthe comforts of home. d 98 Merrion Rd, Ballsbridge• DART Sandymount, BusNos. 7, 8, 45 • 668 4410 • €€€

Raglan LodgeA privately owned,

converted Victorianhouse, set in the heart ofBallsbridge’s elegantresidential district.Guests are encouragedto relax together in frontof the fire in the lounge,but the bedrooms arecomfortable and stylish ifyou’re feeling lesssociable. d Raglan Rd,Ballsbridge • DARTSandymount • 660 6697 • €€€

Albany HouseThis 18th-century

house was once ownedby the Earl of Clonmel,but is now privately runas a comfortable hotel,

The FitzwilliamIn the heart of

Georgian Dublin, close toSt Stephen’s Green, thisspacious townhouse haslots of charm and all thenecessary mod cons.Friendly and relaxed,there are 13 en-suiterooms. d 41 Fitzwilliam St• Map H6 • 01-662 5155 • fitzwilliamguesthouse@ericom.ie • €€

Eglinton ManorThis imposing, 19th-

century listed building isa wonderful place tostay, with eight guest-rooms and an executivesuite, all lovingly deco-rated with Irish crafts.There’s a beautifulmarble fireplace togather around in thelounge on cold winternights, or, in summer,enjoy a round of golf or ahorse ride, both availablenearby. d Eglinton Rd,Donnybrook • Bus Nos. 10,11, 11A, 11B • 269 3273 • €€€

Comfort InnExcellent value for

money right in the heartof the city. Pale floors,bright red sofas and awelcoming fire make upthe lounge area, and thebedrooms are stylishlydecorated too. The smallgarden at the back of thehotel is a wonderful andrelaxing bonus in goodweather. d Talbot St • Map F2 • 01-874 9202 • www.comfort-inn-dublin.com • Dis. access(family rooms) • €€€–€€€€

Guesthouses

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€ under €50€€ €50–100

€€€ €100–150€€€€ €150–200

€€€€€ over €200

Price Categories

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Waterford and Limerick HotelsRathsallaghHouse

Once named the CountryHouse of the Year,Rathsallagh House hasan 18-hole championshipgolf course and is set on530 lush acres of rollinglandscape with severallakes, streams andwoodland. On the westside of the WicklowMountains. d Dunlavin,Co Wicklow • Map N5 • 045 403112 • www.rathsallagh.com • Dis.access • €€€€€

Waterford Castle One of the unique

hotel experiences in theworld. The 15th-centurycastle is set on a 300-acre island overlookingthe River Suir. Access isby car ferry only and thehotel offers the veryhighest standards ofcomfort, luxuriouslyfurnished with antiquesand open fireplaces. d Ballinakill, Waterford • Map Q5 • 051 878203 • www.waterfordcastle.com• €€€€€

Adare ManorHotel

Situated in one of theprettiest villages in thecountry, this 18th-centurymanor house is now a 5-star luxury hotel. Oncethe seat of the Earls ofDunraven, it is nowAmerican-owned. Goodservice is guaranteed. d Main St, Adare Village,Co Limerick • Map P3 • 061 396566 • www.adaremanor.com • €€€€€

The K Club The K Club is a 5-star

hotel and abounds inactivities. There are two18-hole championshipgolf courses designed byArnold Palmer, one ofwhich is the venue forthe Ryder Cup in 2006.River fishing is also avail-able. Rooms are luxuri-ous, with all modernconveniences. d Straffan,Co Kildare • Map P5 • 01-601 7200 • www.kclub.ie • Dis. access • €€€€€

Mount Juliet Estate

This 1,500-acre estateboasts an 18-hole golfcourse designed by JackNicklaus which hostedthe WGC AmericanExpress Championship in2002. There is also a spaand facilities for archery,clay pigeon shooting andhorse-riding. Inside, therooms are stunning andthe two restaurants areaward-winners. dThomastown, Co Kilkenny • Map P5 • 056 777 3000 • www.mountjuliet.com • Dis. access • €€€€€

Hunter’s Hotel One of the oldest

coaching inns in Ireland,the Hunter’s Hotel offersgardens, golf, tennis,horse-riding and fishing.Beaches are nearby andthe restaurant takesadvantage of the freshfish for its traditional Irishcooking. d Rathnew, CoWicklow • Map N5 • 040440106 • www.hunters.ie • Dis. access • €€€€

Butler House Perhaps the most

luxurious stay in Kilkenny.This Georgian townhouseoverlooks the river andKilkenny Castle. Roomsare spacious, and sweep-ing staircases lead downto the well-maintainedgardens. d 15–16 PatrickSt, Kilkenny • Map P4 • 056776 5707 • www.butler.ie • €€€€

LegendsTownhouse

This bed-and-breakfastprovides a warm Irishwelcome. The restaurantoffers excellent cuisineand fine wines. d TheKiln, Cashel, Co Tipperary • Map P4 • 062 61292 • www.legendsguesthouse.com • €€€

Richmond HouseThis 18th-century

Georgian country houseoffers an award-winningrestaurant and stunninggrounds. Log fires warmthe rooms, which haveperiod features. d Cappoquin, Co Waterford• Map P5 • 058 54278 • www.richmondhouse.net • €€€€

Hanora’s CottageThe Comeragh

Mountains near hereoffer walking trails. Workup an appetite to enjoythe Irish cuisine of therestaurant. There is alsoa hot tub. d Nire Valley,Ballymacarbry, CoWaterford • Map Q4 • 05236134 • hanorascottage@eircom.net • €€€

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art Left Waterford Castle Right Hunters Hotel gardens

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning

133

Cashel HouseAn oasis of calm in

the wilderness of theAtlantic coast, this hotelrests elegantly amidbeautiful gardens. Roomslook onto the gardens orthe sea. Antiques andperiod paintings abound,as do open turf fires.Private beach. Walks,cycling, horse-riding andfishing are available. d Cashel, Co. Galway • Map N2 • 095 31001 • www.cashel-house-hotel.com • €€€€€

Erriseask House Hotel

Ten minutes’ drive fromClifden, this small modernhotel on the shores ofMannin Bay is near thebeach. If long walks amidConnemara’s coastalscenery don’t draw youhere, the excellentrestaurant should. d Ballyconneely, Clifden,Co. Galway • Map M1 • 095 23553 • www.erriseask.com • €€€

CurrarevaghHouse

This country mansion,dated 1842, is situatedright beside Lough Corribin private woodland.Absorb the splendidisolation by walking inthe woods, or taking outone of the fishing boats.The house has a tenniscourt, and golf and ridingare locally available.d Oughterard, Connemara,Co. Galway • Map M2 • 091 552312 • www.currarevagh.com • €€€€

Ashford CastleThis glorious castle is

now a 5-star hotel andresort. Facilities include ahealth club with steamroom, sauna and whirl-pool. Available on theresort are golf, horse-riding, falconry, cruisingand fishing on LoughCorrib. d Cong, Co. Mayo• Map M2 • 094 954 6003 • www.ashford.ie • Dis.access • €€€€€

Delphi Lodge One of Ireland’s most

famous fishing lodges.The atmosphere is ele-gant but informal, with alibrary, a billiards roomand a large drawing roomoverlooking the lake. Fiverestored cottages providefurther accommodation.The surroundings arehome to abundant wild-life, including falcons,badgers and otters. Fly-fishing offered forsalmon. d Leenane, Co.Galway • Map N2 • 095 42222 • www.delphilodge.ie • €€€€

BallynahinchCastle

Once home to the piratequeen Grace O’Malley(see p106), this casuallyelegant 4-star hotelenjoys a breathtakinglocation, ringed by theTwelve Bens Mountains.The restaurant servesfresh game and fish. d Ballynahinch, Recess,Connemara, Co. Galway • Map M2 • 095 31006 • www.ballynahinch-castle.com • €€€€–€€€€€

Rock Glen Manor House

This shooting lodge onthe shores of ArdbearBay enjoys spectacularviews. Horse-riding,fishing and walkingavailable. d Clifden,Connemara, Co. Galway • Map M1 • 095 21035 •www.connemara.net/rockglen-hotel • €€€€–€€€€€

Olde Railway Hotel

The town of Westport isthe wildest of the wildwest. This 18th-centurycoaching inn has a homelyfeel, with turf fires andantique furniture. d TheMall, Westport, Co. Mayo • Map M2 • 098 25166 • www.theolderailwayhotel.com • €€€

Jury’s Inn GalwayThe Jury’s chain offers

good value well-placedaccommodation. Thisbranch is located besidethe historic Spanish Archoverlooking Galway Bay.d Quay St, Galway • MapN2 • 091 566444 • www.jurysdoyle.com • Dis.access • €€€

BallinalackenCastle Country

House The ruins of BallinalackenCastle are right besidethis guesthouse. Therestaurant serves food byaward-winning chef FrankSheedy. d Coast Rd,Doolin, Co Clare • Map N2• 065 707 4025 • www.ballinalackencastle.com • €€€

Galway and Connemara Hotels

Streetsmart

Above Ashford Castle restaurant

€ under €50€€ €50–€100

€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200

€€€€€ over €200

Price Categories

For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

134

Cork and Kerry HotelsCoolclogherHouse

Set in 60 acres ofparkland, CoolclogherHouse is within walkingdistance of KillarneyNational Park. The largeguestrooms have lovelyviews. The Victorianconservatory is builtaround a huge specimencamellia over 170 yearsold. d Mill Rd, Killarney, CoKerry • Map Q2 • 06435996 • www. coolclogherhouse.com • €€€€

The Old Bank House

Facing the bustling har-bour, these two Georgiantownhouses have beenvoted one of the “Top100 places to stay inIreland” every year since1990. d 11 Pearse St,Kinsale, Co Cork • Map Q3• 021 477 4075 • www.oldbankhousekinsale.com • Dis. access • €€€€

Doyle’s Seafood Bar and

TownhouseThis cosy guesthouse inDingle town is also oneof the best lovedrestaurants in Ireland.Lobster, the speciality, ischosen from a tank in thebar and the menu featuresthe catch of the day. Ared exterior hints at thewarmth within: stone andwood decor, and an oldrange in the kitchen. Self-catering apartments arealso available. d John St,Dingle, Co Kerry • Map Q1• 066 915 1174 • www.doylesofdingle.com • €€€

The Park HotelThis hotel is in a

19th-century limestonebuilding. Enjoy therestaurant’s mix of classicand progressive cooking,while looking out overthe 11-acre garden andKenmare Bay. The hotelhas a spa and is adjacentto an 18-hole golf course;salmon fishing and ridingare available nearby. d Kenmare, Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 41200 • www.parkkenmare.com • Dis. access • €€€€€

Sheen Falls LodgeThis rambling lodge

is situated on a dramatic300-acre estate aboveSheen Falls and KenmareBay. The award-winningrestaurant, La Cascade,overlooks a waterfall. Thelodge has a fitness centre,swimming pool, billiardsroom and wine cellar. d Kenmare, Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 064 41600 • www.sheenfallslodge.ie • Dis. access • €€€€€

Ballymaloe HouseThis ivy-covered

Georgian guesthouse ona 400-acre farm is thebest in its category.Enjoy the simply preparedfood from the award-winning restaurant. Or tryyour hand at the smallgolf course, tennis courtor splash around in theoutdoor pool. Fishing andriding can be arranged. d Shanagarry, Midleton, CoCork • Map Q3 • 021 4652531 • www.ballymaloe.ie• Dis. access • €€€€€

Darby O’Gill’sThis friendly family-

run hotel is in a quietrural setting five minutes’drive from Killarney town.Families are particularlywell catered for. TraditionalIrish music is playednightly in the summer. d Lissivigeen, Mallow Rd,Killarney, Co Kerry • MapQ2 • 064 34168 • darbyogill@tinet.ie • €€–€€€

Aherne’sTownhouse

This family-run pub isalso a hotel and restau-rant. The sitting room hasan open fire and lots ofbooks. The rooms aredecorated with antiques,and some have balconies.d 163 N Main St, Youghal,Co Cork • Map Q4 • 02492424 • www.ahernes.com• Dis. access • €€€€

Shelburne LodgeOnce the home of

Lord Shelburne (1737–1805), former primeminister of Great Britain.Informal, with log fire andwood floors. d Killowen,Cork Rd, Kenmare, CoKerry • Map Q2 • 06441013 • www.kenmare.net/shelburne • €€€

Muckross ParkHotel

Set in Killarney NationalPark, this plush Victorianhotel incorporates anaward-winning restaurantand Molly Darcy’s pub. d Muckross Village, Killarney,Co Kerry • Map Q2 • 06431938 • www.muckrosspark.com • €€€€€

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art Left Sheen Falls Lodge Right The Park Hotel

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning

135

Ardnamona The surrounding

natural beauty of Ardna-mona is complementedby the glorious wildgardens planted in the1880s and now aNational Heritage Site.Rooms are spacious andmodern with great views.d Lough Eske, Co Donegal• Map K4 • 074 972 2650 • www.ardnamona.ie • €€€

Cromleach LodgeCountry House

The lodge’s unconven-tional design makes themost of the view over-looking Lough Arrow andthe Bricklieve Mountains.A patio catches the sunand rooms all have greatviews, with a semi-traditional decor. There isa piano bar for the use ofresidents. d Castle-baldwin, Co Sligo • Map L3• 071 916 5155 • www.cromleach.com • €€€€€

Bushmills Inn Once you check into

this old coaching inn andmill house, you may findit difficult to leave. Notonly will the open peatfires, pitched pine andgas lights make you wantto stay, the Bushmillsdistillery – the oldest inNorthern Ireland – in thevillage may make youforget how to get home.Golfing and fishingavailable nearby. d 9Dunluce Rd, Bushmills, CoAntrim • Map K5 • 0282073 2339 • www.bushmillsinn.com • Dis.access • €€€€

Coopershill Set on a 500-acre

estate of farm and wood-land, this Georgian man-sion lets you forget theworld outside. Elegance isa virtue here, with candle-lit dinners served with thefamily silver. Along withthe open log fires thereare modern comforts, andpeacocks wander throughthe garden. d Riverstown,Co Sligo • Map L3 • 071916 5108 • ohara@coopershill.com • Dis.access • €€€€

Temple House The Perceval family

have owned the housesince 1665; the currentbuilding was refurbishedin 1864. Rooms have atraditional atmospherewith log fires and cano-pied beds. The area hasmany archaeologicalsights and the hotel canadvise on walks. d Bally-mote, Co Sligo • Map L3 • 071 918 3329 • www.templehouse.ie • €€€

RathmullanCountry House

Located on the quietshores of Donegal, thiscountry house also hasaward-winning gardens.Rooms are decorated inperiod style and familyrooms and suites areavailable. There is anindoor swimming pool,steam room and tenniscourts for added luxury. d Rathmullan, Co Donegal• Map K4 • 074 915 8188 • www.rathmullanhouse.com • €€€€

The CrescentTownhouse

The chic end of Belfast’shotel market. There is ahighly rated on-sitebrasserie and it is just ashort walk to the GoldenMile. d 13 LowerCrescent, Belfast • Map L6• 028 9032 3349 • www.crescenttownhouse.com • €€

Tyrella House At the foot of the

Mourne Mountains,Tyrella hides behind tallbeech woods. Horse-riding and fishing can bearranged. d Downpatrick,Co, Down • Map L6 • 02844 851422 • tyrella.corbett@virgin.net • €€

Streeve HillMost visitors here

are on a tour of theAntrim coast and thebreakfast at Streeve Hillwill set you on your way.Rooms vary, from cosyrooms with a shower toa large room with sidebedroom, ideal forchildren. d Limavady, CoLondonderry • Map K5 • 028 777 66563 • pandjwelsh@yahoo.co.uk • €€

Charlemont Arms This modern inn

attracts locals as well asvisitors to its café/winebar, one of the best inArmagh. Armagh’s twocathedrals are nearby.d 57–65 English St,Armagh • Map L5 • 0283752 2028 • www.charlemontarmshotel.com • Dis. access • €€

Northwest and Northern Hotels

Streetsmart

Above Streeve Hill gardens

€ under €50€€ €50–€100

€€€ €100–€150€€€€ €150–€200

€€€€€ over €200

Price Categories

For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

136

Ind

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General Indexbars

Greater Dublin 76South of the Liffey 58

Beara Peninsula 87Beatty, Sir Alfred Chester 12,

14, 16, 17Beckett, Samuel 8, 35, 41beer, Guinness Storehouse

24–5

begging 127Behan, Brendan 43Beit, Sir Alfred 12, 70Beit, Lady 12Belcamp Hutchinson 130Belfast 116Bellucci, Giambattista 15Belmore, Earl of 115Belvedere, Earl of 99Belvedere House 99Berkeley Court 128Bermingham, Meiler de 102Berry Brothers 47Bewley’s Oriental Café 47,

55, 59Bianconi (Waterford) 85bicycles 37, 124Birr 98–9Birr Castle, Gardens and

Telescope 98Blackrock Market 47Blair’s Inn (Blarney) 93Blarney Castle 92Blessington 80Bloomsday 41Bog of Allen 99Boluisce (Spiddal) 103Book of Kells 8, 9Botticelli 59Bowen, Elizabeth 35Boyle 112Boyle family 23Boyne, Battle of the 30Boyne Valley 71Brasserie Na Mara (Dun

Laoghaire) 77Brazen Head 43Break for the Border 44breakfast 124Brooks Hotel 129Brown Thomas 57Brownes Brasserie 59Brownes Townhouse 131Browns Hotel 130Brueghel, Jan II 13Brulees (Limerick) 97budget travel 124Bunratty Castle 96Burke, Edmund 8, 35The Burlington 129The Burren 95, 96Burton, Decimus 28buses 120, 121, 124Bushmills Inn (Bushmills)

117, 135

A

Abbey Street Market 47Abbey Tavern (Howth) 76Abbey Theatre 40, 62Adare Manor Hotel

(Limerick) 132Aherne’s Seafood

Restaurant and Bar(Youghal) 93

Aherne’s Townhouse(Youghal) 134

air travel 120Albany House 131alcohol 123All-Ireland Football Final 37All-Ireland Hurling Final 37Altamont, Earl of 105ambulances 127An Súgan (Clonakilty) 93Andrew’s Lane Theatre 40Anglesea Townhouse 130Annie’s Restaurant

(Ballydehob) 89Antrim, Glens of 115Aran Fisherman (Aran

Islands) 103Áras an Uachtaráin 28The Arches (Adare) 97Ardmore 83Ardmore Country House and

Restaurant (Westport) 107Ardnamona (Lough Eske)

135The Ark 36Armagh 116Asgard Tavern (Westport)

107Ashford Castle (Cong) 133Ashtown Castle 29Athenry 102Avoca, Vale of 81Avoca Café Powerscourt 77Avoca Food Hall 47Avoca Handweavers 57, 75Avondale Forest Park 81Avondale House 74

B

Bacon, Francis 61Baggots Court 130The Bailey 43Ballinalacken Castle Country

House (Doolin) 133Ballymaloe House

(Shanagarry) 93, 134Ballynahinch Castle

(Ballynahinch) 133Bangkok Café 67Bank of Ireland 33, 56banks 126Bantry Bay 87Bantry House (Bantry) 87, 89Banville, John 35Barnacle, Nora 34

business hours 122Butler House (Kilkenny) 132Butlers Townhouse 130

C

Café en Seine 58Café Mao’s (Dun Laoghaire)

77Café Society (Belfast) 117Calveys Restaurant (Keel)

107Canova, Antonio 92Caravaggio 13Carlingford 74cars 121, 122

tours of Greater Dublin 71Cashel 95Cashel House (Cashel) 103,

107, 133Cassels, Richard

Gate Theatre 63Iveagh House 33Leinster House 32Powerscourt 69Rotunda Hospital 33, 66Russborough 70Trinity College 9

Castle Coole 115Castles

Bunratty Castle 96Dublin 6, 14–17, 32, 53,55

Castletown House 69, 71cathedrals

Christ Church Cathedral 7,20–1, 54, 55St Mary’s Pro Cathedral 66St Patrick’s Cathedral 7,22–3, 54, 55

Cavendish, Lord 29Cavistons (Sandycove) 77Cayenne (Belfast) 117Cedar Lodge 131Céide Fields 106céilís 39The Cellar (Foulksmills) 85Celtic Note 57Celtic traditions 39Celtic Whiskey Shop 57Celts 30ceramics 125Chambers, Sir William 9Chapter One 63, 67Charlemont, Earl of 74Charlemont Arms (Armagh)

135Charles II, King of England

29Charles Fort 92Chart House Restaurant

(Dingle) 89cheese 125Chester Beatty Library

16–17

137

crime 123, 127Croagh Patrick 106Crockets on the Quay

(Ballina) 107Cromleach Lodge Country

House (Castlebaldwin)113, 135

Cromwell, Oliver 91, 106crosses, Celtic 39Crown Liquor Saloon

(Belfast) 117Cruises (Ennis) 97crystal 125Cuchulainn 38, 39Cullinans (Doolin) 97Cultivate 19Currarevagh House

(Oughterard) 103, 133currency 126Custom House 32, 61, 63cycling 37, 124

D

Dalkey 75Darby O’Gill’s (Killarney) 134d’Arcy, John 105, 106DART 121The Davenport 128Davy Byrne’s 58Dawson, Joshua 56de Valera, Eamon 31, 66Deane, Sir Thomas 9Deerfield 29Degas, Edgar 61Deirdre 38–9Delphi Lodge (Leenane) 133dentists 127Derry 116Derrynane House 88Devil’s Glen 81Diarmuid 39Dingle 87Dingle Peninsula 86Dinn Rig 39discounts 122, 124Dish 59Djouce Woods 81doctors 127Doheny and Nesbitt’s 43Donegal 112Doyle, Roddy 35Doyle’s Seafood Bar and

Townhouse (Dingle) 89, 134drink-driving 123driving 122, 123Drumcliffe 109Dublin Airport 120Dublin Belfast Maracycle 37Dublin Castle 6, 14–17, 32,

53, 55Dublin City Marathon 37Dublin International Film

Festival (DIFF) 41Dublin Theatre Festival 41Dublin Writers’ Museum 62,

63

Chesterfield, Lord 28Chief O’Neills 67, 129Childers, Erskine 27children 36chocolate 125Christ Church Cathedral 7,

20–1, 54, 55Christianity 30Ciaran, St 98City Hall 18, 32, 54Clara Lara Fun Park 81Clare 94–7Clare Island 106The Clarence 128Clarion Hotel Stephens Hall

129Clements, Nathaniel 28Clerys 67Clifden 105Cliffs of Moher 95climate 122Clonmacnoise 98Club Anabel 44Club M 45coach travel 120Cobbe, Archbishop Charles

71Cobh 91Collins, Michael 14, 31,

43Colours Boat Race 37Comfort Inn 131Comyn, Bishop John 22Cong Abbey 101Congreve, William 8Connemara and Mayo 104–7

hotels 133map 104restaurants 107

Connemara National Park105

Conolly, William 69Conrad International 128consulates 122Conyngham Arms (Slane)

76Coolclogher House

(Killarney) 134Coole Park 101Cooley, Thomas 18, 32, 54The Cooperage (Killarney) 89Coopershill (Riverstown)

135Cork 90–3

hotels 134map 90restaurants 93

Cork, Richard Boyle, Earl of23

Cow’s Lane 19Crackpots (Kinsale) 93craic 39Cre na Cille (Tuam) 103credit cards 126Crescent Townhouse

(Belfast) 135

Dublin Writers’ MuseumCafé 67

Dublin Zoo 28, 36Dublinia 36, 56Dunbrody Country House

(Arthurstown) 85Dunmore East 84Dunne & Crescenzi 47Durty Nelly’s Oyster

Restaurant (Bunratty) 97

E

Earl of Thomond(Newmarket on Fergus) 97

Easter Rising (1916) 31L’Ecrivain 49Edwards, Hilton 63Eglinton Manor 131Elizabeth I, Queen of

England 9, 53, 91, 106embassies 122emergency numbers 127Emo Court 98Ennis 96Enniskerry 75Ensor, John 33Epicurean Food Hall 67Erriseask House Hotel

(Ballyconneely) 133

F

fabrics, shopping 125fairy trees 39Fairyhouse Racing Festival

37Faithfull, Marianne 54Far Pavillion 75ferries 120Festival of Music in Great

Irish Houses 41Finian, St 88Finn MacCoul 39, 115fire services 127Fishers of Newtown Mount

Kennedy 75Fitzgerald, “Silken Thomas”

14The Fitzwilliam 128, 131Fleet Inn (Killybegs) 113Florence Court 116Focus Theatre 41Foley, John 8food sellers 4740 Foot (Dun Laoghaire)

77Fota Wildlife Park and

Arboretum 92Four Courts 32, 66Four Seasons Hotel 128Fowke, Francis 12Foynes Flying Boat Museum

96Francesca’s 48–9, 59Francis Street 46Friel, Brian 35Fry Model Railway 36

Ind

ex

138

Ind

ex

hurling 37, 39Hyde, Douglas 23

I

Ibn al-Bawwab 16, 17IMMA café 76information sources 122Inishbofin Islands 106Inishowen Peninsula 109International Bar 44, 58Internet

air travel bargains 120Internet cafés 122, 126

IRA 29Irish Film Institute 19Irish Museum of Modern Art

(IMMA) 27, 76Irish Tourist Board 122Isaacs (Cork) 93Iveagh Gardens 56Iveagh House 33

J

Jacob’s Ladder 59James II, King of England 30James Joyce Cultural Centre

62, 63James Joyce Summer

School 41Jerpoint Abbey 83Jervis Street Shopping

Centre 46jewellery 125JJ Fox Ltd 57John, King of England 14,

15, 84John F Kennedy Park and

Arboretum (Waterford) 84John Paul II, Pope 29, 31Johnnie Fox (Glencullen) 76Johnson, Esther 23Johnston, Francis 62Johnston, Richard 33Joyce, James 34

Bloomsday 41James Joyce CulturalCentre 62Mulligan’s 42Sandycove Martello Tower74Stag’s Head 42

Jury’s Inn Galway 133

K

The K Club (Straffan) 132Kavanagh, Patrick 35kayaking 36Kealey’s Seafood Bar

(Greencastle) 113Kehoe’s 42Kenmare 87Kennedy, John F 42, 84Kerry

hotels 134Kevin, St 70Kevin & Howlin 57

Gregory, Lady Augusta 62,101

The Gresham 63, 67, 129Griffith, Arthur 31guesthouses 131Guilbaud, Patrick 48Guinness, Arthur 24, 25Guinness, Sir Benjamin 33Guinness Storehouse 7,

24–5, 69

H

Ha’Penny Bridge 56Hal Pino’s (Ennis) 97Hall Walker, Colonel 70Halo at the Morrison 49, 67Handel’s Messiah 31, 41Hanora’s Cottage

(Ballymacarbry) 132Hargadon’s Pub (Sligo) 113Harrington, Howley 18Harrington Hall 130Haughey, Charles 31health 127Heaney, Seamus 35Henry II, King of England 21,

84Henry, Mitchell 105Henry Street 46, 63Herbert Park 129Hibernian 129historic buildings 32–3history 30–1Hodges Figgis 57Hogarth, William 13Hone, Nathaniel the Elder

12Hone, Nathaniel the Younger

12Hook Peninsula 84Horn Head 109horse racing 37hospitals 127hostels 124Hotel St George 130hotels 128–35

bars 123Cork and Kerry 134Galway and Connemara133luxury hotels 128Northwest and NorthernIreland 135three- and four-star hotels129townhouse hotels 130Waterford and Limerick132

House of Ireland 57Howth 74Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery

of Modern Art 61, 63Hungry Monk (Greystones)

77Hunter’s Hotel (Rathnew)

132

G

GAA Museum 66Gaby’s (Killarney) 89Gaelic football 37The Gaeltachts (Gaelic-

speaking areas) 84, 112Gaiety Theatre 40Gainsborough, Thomas 12,

13Galilei, Alessandro 69Gallarus Oratory 88galleries see museums and

galleriesGallery of Photography 19Galway 100–3

hotels 133map 100restaurants 103

Galway City 101Galway International Arts

Festival 41Gandon, James 54

Bank of Ireland 33Custom House 32, 61Emo Court 98Four Courts 32, 66Kings Inns 66Rotunda Hospital 33

Garden of Remembrance 66gardens see parks and

gardensGardiner, Luke 61Gate Theatre 40, 63Gavarogue (Sligo) 113General Post Office 62George’s Street Arcade 47Giant’s Causeway 115Gibbons, Grinling 23Gifford, Grace 26Gladstone, William 31Glasnevin Botanic Gardens

and Cemetery 74glassware 125Glendalough 70Glens of Antrim 115Glenveagh National Park 109Goldsmith, Oliver 8Golf Club (Strandhill) 113Gore-Booth family 109Gort, Viscount 96Gotham Café 36Government Buildings 56Goya y Lucientes, Francisco

José 13GPO 63Grafton Street 46, 54–5Grainne 39Grattan, Henry 31The Gravity Bar 76Great Famine 31Greater Dublin 68–77

a drive around 71map 68pubs and bars 76restaurants 77shopping 75

139

Loughman’s (Waterford) 85LUAS 121Lynhams Bar (Laragh) 76

M

McCourt, Frank 35, 95McDaids 58McDonagh’s Fish Restaurant

(Galway) 103McGahern, John 35McGroarty’s (Donegal) 113McGuirks 75Macha, Queen 116Mack, Robert 33MacLiammóir, Micheál 63Maclise, Daniel 13MacMurrough, Dermot 21Maginnis, Denis J 62mail services 126Malahide 75Malahide Castle 74Malone, Molly 55Manet, Edouard 61Mansion House 56manuscripts, Chester Beatty

Library 17MAO 59Marino Casino 74markets 47Marrakech Eamon’s

(Lahinch) 97Marsh, Archbishop

Narcissus 23, 33Marsh’s Library 33Mason, James 40Mayo see Connemara and

MayoMeath, Earl of 74Meeting House Square 19Mellon, Thomas 116Merchant’s Arch 18Mermaid Café 49, 59The Merrion 128Merrion Square 56Millennium Bridge 18Milltown, Countess 12Molly’s Bar and Restaurant

(Killaloe) 97Monet, Claude 13money 126Moore, Thomas 81Moore Street Market 47The Morgan 129The Morning Star (Belfast) 117Morris, Abraham 92Morrison 128Mosse, Dr Bartholomew 33Mosse, Sir Benjamin 61Mount Juliet Estate

(Thomastown) 132Mount Stewart 115Mount Usher Gardens 74, 75Mountflorence, Lord 116Muckross Park Hotel

(Killarney) 134Mulligan’s 42, 58

Kildare, Earl of 23, 32Kilkenny Design 57Killaloe 96Killarney 88Killary Harbour 106Killybegs 112Kilmacduagh 102Kilmainham Gaol and

Hospital 7, 26–7, 69, 71Kilruddery House 74Kilrush 96King Sitric (Howth) 77, 131Kings Inns 66Kinsale 91Kinsale Gourmet Store and

Seafood Bar (Kinsale) 93Kinvarra 101Kish (Dalkey) 77Koralek, Paul 9Kylemore Abbey 105

L

Lady Helen Dining Room(Thomastown) 85

The Lakes, Blessington 80Lakes of Killarney 87Lambert Puppet Theatre 36Lane, Sir Hugh 12, 61language 39Lansdowne, Marquess of 87Lanyon, Sir Charles 8Laytown Races 37Leenane 106legends and myths 38–9Legends Townhouse

(Cashel) 132Leinster House 32, 56Lennox, Lady Louisa 69Leopardstown Christmas

Racing Festival 37Letterkenny 112Liberty Market 47Lillie’s Bordello 44Limerick 94–7

hotels 132restaurants 97

linen, shopping 125Lir, Children of 38Lissadell 109Lobster Pot (Carne) 85Lobster Pot (Dublin) 48Lobster Pot (Strangford)

117Loch Erne, Lower 115Loch Key 112Londonderry 116Londonderry, Marquises of

115Londres, Archbishop Henry

de 22Long Hall 43Longfields Hotel 130Longford, 2nd Earl of 99Loop Head Drive 96lost property 127Lough Corrib 101

Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban13

Murphy, Tom 35museums and galleries

Avondale House 74Dublin Writers’ Museum62, 63Foynes Flying BoatMuseum 96GAA Museum 66Gallery of Photography 19Guinness Storehouse 7,24–5

Hugh Lane MunicipalGallery of Modern Art 61,63Irish Museum of ModernArt (IMMA) 27Kilmainham Gaol andHospital 26–7, 69, 71National Gallery 6, 12–13,53National Museum ofIreland 6, 10–11, 36, 53National PhotographicArchive 19National Wax Museum 66Natural History Museum 56Skellig Experience 88Waterford Treasures at theGranary Museum 83Wax Museum 36Yeats Museum 12

musical instruments 39, 125The Mustard Seed

(Ballingarry) 97My Museum 36myths and legends 38–9

N

National Concert Hall 40National Gallery 6, 12–13,

53, 55National Museum of Ireland

6, 10–11, 36, 53National Photographic

Archive 19National Stud 70, 71National Wax Museum 66Natural History Museum

56Neary’s 42Nelson’s Column 62Newbridge Demesne 71Newgrange 30, 70, 71Newport House (Newport)

107newspapers 126Nick’s Restaurant (Killorglin)

89nightspots 44–5Nimmos (Galway City) 103North of the Liffey 60–7

map 60restaurants 67walks 63

Ind

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140

Ind

ex

Raleigh, Sir Walter 91Rathmullan House

(Rathmullan) 113, 135Rathsallagh House

(Dunlavin) 132Reginald’s Tower (Waterford)

84rental cars 121Renvyle House 107restaurants 48–9

budget travel 124Connemara and Mayo 107Cork 93Galway 103Greater Dublin 77North of the Liffey 67Northern Ireland 117Ring of Kerry and DinglePeninsula 89South of the Liffey 59Tipperary, Limerick andClare 97Waterford 85Yeats Country and theNorthwest 113

Reynolds, Sir Joshua 13Rí-Rá 45Richard II, King of England

84Richmond House

(Cappoquin) 132Ring of Kerry and Dingle

Peninsula 86–9restaurants 89

Rinuccini (Kilkenny) 85road rules 121Robinson, Mary 31Robinson, Sir William 15, 26,

27, 33Rocha, John 54Rock of Dunamase 99Rock Glen Manor House

(Clifden) 133Roly’s Bistro 48Romney, George 13Rosleague Manor

(Letterfrack) 107Rosse, Earl of 98Rotunda Hospital 33, 63, 66Roundstone 106Roundwood Inn

(Roundwood) 76Royal Dublin Horse Show 37Royal Gunpowder Mills 92Rubens, Peter Paul 13rugby 37, 123rush-hour traffic 123Russborough 70, 71Ryans 42

S

safety 127St Brigid’s Crosses 39St Mary’s Abbey 66St Mary’s Pro Cathedral 66St Michan’s Church 66

parks and gardens (contd.)Arboretum (Waterford) 84Mount Usher Gardens 74Phoenix Park 7, 28–9, 69

Parnell, Charles Stewart 31,74

Parnell Square 61, 63Passage East 84Pasta Fresca 59Patrick, St 22, 30, 38, 106,

116Peacock Theatre 40, 62Pearce, Sir Edward Lovett

27, 33, 69Pearse, Patrick 31Peatland World 74Pembroke Townhouse 130People’s Garden, Phoenix

Park 28performing arts venues 40–1petrol stations 121pharmacies 127Phoenix Monument 28Phoenix Park 7, 28–9, 69, 71phonecards 126Picasso, Pablo 13pickpockets 123Pier 36 (Donaghadee) 117PJ O’Hare Anchor Bar

(Carlingford) 76Plunkett, Joseph 26The PoD 44police 127politicians 31Polly Hops (Newcastle) 76Pomodoro, Arnaldo 9Poppies (Enniskerry) 77Portaferry Hotel (Portaferry)

117Portarlington, Earl of 98The Porterhouse 58postal services 126Powerscourt 69, 75Powerscourt, Viscount 33,

55Powerscourt Townhouse 33,

46, 55Project Arts Centre 19, 41pubs 42–3

Greater Dublin 76South of the Liffey 58

The Purple Heather(Kenmare) 89

Q

Quay Cottage (Westport)107

Quays Bar and Restaurant(Portavogie) 117

R

radio 126Rajdoot Tandoori 48Raeburn, Sir Henry 13Raglan Lodge 131rail travel 120, 121

Northern Ireland 114–17, 122hotels 135map 114restaurants 117

Northwest Ireland 108–9hotels 135

Number 31 131

O

O’Brien, Edna 35O’Brien, Flann 42O’Brien family 96O’Casey, Sean 34, 40, 62,

101Ocean Hotel (Dunmore) 85O’Connell, Daniel 29, 31, 74,

88O’Connell Street 61, 63O’Connor, Roderic 12O’Connor, Rory 21The Odeon 58O’Donoghue’s 43O’Dowd’s Seafood Bar and

Restaurant (Roundstone)103, 107

Oisin 38Old Bank House (Kinsale) 134Old Dublin 59Old Jameson Distillery 63Old Midleton Distillery 92Olde Railway Hotel

(Westport) 133The Olde Stand (Waterford)

85Oliver St John Gogarty’s 58Olympia Theatre 40O’Malley, Grace 106101 Talbot Street 67O’Neills 58opening hours 122Ormond, Duke of 29Ormond, Earl of 23Osborne, Walter Frederick 12Oscar Taylor’s (Malahide) 77O’Shea brothers 9O’Toole, St Laurence 21O’Toole, Peter 42Oughterard 102

P

Packies (Kenmare) 89Paddy Burke’s (Clarinbridge)

103Papal Cross 29Park Hotel (Kenmare) 134Parke, Captain Robert 112Parkes Castle 112Parkes, Richard 33parking 121parks and gardens

Garden of Remembrance66Glasnevin Botanic Gardensand Cemetery 74Iveagh Gardens 56John F Kennedy Park and

141

Streeve Hill (Limavady) 135Strongbow (Richard de

Clare) 20, 21, 84student discounts 124The Sugar Club 45Swift, Jonathan 8, 23, 34, 54Synge, JM 40, 101

T

taxis 121, 123Tea Room at The Clarence 49telephones 126television 126Temple, Sir William 18, 19Temple Bar 7, 18–19, 53, 55Temple Bar Market 47Temple Bar Music Centre 44Temple House (Ballymote)

135Terroirs-Donnybrook 47theft 123, 127Thoor Ballylee 102Timoleague Abbey 92Tintern Abbey 84Tipperary 94–7tipping 122Tivoli Theatre 41Toibin, Colm 35Tone, Theobald Wolfe 31townhouse hotels 130trains 120, 121travel 120–1

budget travel 124travellers’ cheques 126Trevor, William 35Trinity Capital 129Trinity College 6, 8–9, 53, 55Trinity Lodge 130Tuireann, Children of 38Tullynally Castle 99tweed, shopping 125Twelve Bens Mountains 105Tyrella House (Downpatrick)

135

U

U2 54Ulster-American Folk Park 116Ulster History Park 116unsafe areas 123

V

Valdre, Vincenzo 15Vale of Avoca 81Valentia Island 88Velázquez, Diego Rodríguez

de 12, 13Vermeer, Jan 12Viking Splash Tour 36Vikings 30The Vintage (Kanturk) 93

W

walking 121North of the Liffey 63South of the Liffey 55

St Patrick’s Cathedral 7,22–3, 54, 55

St Patrick’s Day celebrations41

St Stephen’s GreenShopping Centre 46

Sally Gap 80SamSara 58Samuel Beckett Centre 41Sandycove Martello Tower 74Schomberg, Duke Frederick

23The Schoolhouse 129security 123, 127Semple, George 71Shanks Restaurant (Bangor)

117Shannon, River 96Shannonbridge Bog Railway

98Shaw, George Bernard 34

Coole Park 101National Gallery 12, 13Shaw’s Birthplace 56

Sheen Falls Lodge(Kenmare) 89, 134

The Shelbourne 128Shelburne Lodge (Kenmare)

134Sheridans Cheesemongers

47shopping 46–7, 125

budget travel 124Greater Dublin 75South of the Liffey 57

The Silken Thomas (Kildare)76

Sinn Fein 31Sitric Silkenbeard 20Six Counties 116Six Nations Rugby 37The 1601 (Kinsale) 93The Skelligs 88The Sky and the Ground

(Wexford) 85Sky Road 106Slieve Bloom Mountains 99Sligo 109Smirke, Sir William 29Smithfield 66Smuggler’s Creek

(Rossnowlagh) 113Smyth, Edward 32Sneem 88South of the Liffey 52–9

map 52pubs and bars 58restaurants 59shopping 57walks 55

Spiddal 102sporting events 37Stag’s Head 42La Stampa 48Stapleton, Michael 33, 55Stoker, Bram 8

water worship 39Waterford 82–5

hotels 132map 82restaurants 85

Waterford Castle (Ballinakill)132

Waterford City Centre 83Waterford Crystal Factory 83Waterford Treasures at the

Granary Museum 83Waterloo House 131Wax Museum 36weather 122Welles, Orson 40Wellington Monument 29The Westbury 128Westbury Mall 47Westport 105Wexford Opera Festival 41Whelan’s 45Whichcraft Gallery 57whiskey 125White Gables (Moycullen

Village) 103Wicklow Gap 80Wicklow Gardens Festival 41Wicklow Mountains 71,

80–1Wicklow Town 80–1Wicklow Way 80Wilde, Oscar 34, 41

Gate Theatre 40Merrion Square 56Trinity College 8

Winding Stair Bookshop 63,67

Woodward, Benjamin 9Wrights of Howth 75writers 34–5Wyatt, James 115

Y

Yamamori Noodles 59Yeats, Jack B 12, 34, 109Yeats, William Butler 34, 100

Abbey Theatre 40Drumcliffe church 109Irish National Theatre 62Thoor Ballylee 102Yeats Museum 12

Yeats Country and theNorthwest 108–9restaurants 113

Yeats’s Tavern (Drumcliffe)113

Youghal 91Yumi Yuki Club (Cork) 93

Z

Zoo 28, 36

Ind

ex

142

Ack

no

wle

dge

men

ts

Main Contributors

Polly Phillimore has worked as afreelance writer and editor for anumber of years and withDorling Kindersley for sevenyears. She moved to Irelandfrom the UK in 1995 and dividesher time between Dublin andthe West of Ireland.

Award-winning travel writerAndrew Sanger has contributedto a variety of newspapers,magazines and travel websites.From 1990–99 he was the editorof Rail Europe magazine, and isthe author of more than 20guidebooks, mainly on Ireland,France and Israel.

Produced by Sargasso MediaLtd, London

Project Editor Zoë RossArt Editors Philip Lord, JanisUttonPicture Research MonicaAllendeProofreader Stewart J WildIndexer Hilary BirdEditorial Assistance NonieLuke

Additional Contributors

Robin Gauldie, Jason Mitchell,Christina ParkMain Photographer MagnusRewAdditional Photography

Joe Cornish, Tim Daly, AnthonySouter, Clive Streeter, AlanWilliamsIllustrator Chris Orr &Associates

FOR DORLING KINDERSLEY

Publishing Managers JaneEwart, Fay FranklinPublisher Douglas AmrineCartography Co-ordinator

Casper MorrisDTP Jason LittleProduction Melanie Dowland

Maps James Macdonald, RobClynes (Mapping Ideas Ltd)

Picture Credits

t-top; tc-top centre; tr-top right;cla-centre left above; ca-centreabove; cra-centre right above; cl-centre left; c-centre; cr-centreright; clb-centre left below; cb-centre below; crb-centre rightbelow; bl-below left; bc-belowcentre; br-below right.

Every effort has been made totrace the copyright holders, andwe apologize in advance for anyunintentional omissions. Wewould be pleased to insert theappropriate acknowledgementsin any subsequent edition ofthis publication. The publisherswould like to thank the followingindividuals, companies, andpicture libraries for permissionto reproduce their photographs:

AKG, London: 34b

BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY:Private Collection “The Death ofCuchulain” c.1940 by JohnYunge-Bateman 38b, The FineArt Society 38t; Courtesy ofBROOKS HOTEL: 48b;CHESTER BEATTY LIBRARY,DUBLIN: 16tl, 16tr, 16b, 17t, 17b;

Acknowledgements

143

Ackn

ow

ledgem

ents

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145

Irel

and

In

dex

Louisburgh M2Lucan S2Lurgan L5Malahide U1Mallow Q3Marino T2Midleton Q3Monaghan L5Monasterboice M5Monasterevin N5Mountshannon N3Moy L5Moycullen N2Mullingar M4Mulrany M2Naas N5Navan M5Nenagh P3New Ross P5Newbridge N5Newcastle U4Newgrange M5Newmarket-on-Fergus P3Newry L5Omagh L4Oughterard N2Passage East Q5Portadown L5Portaferry L6Portlaoise N4Portrush K5Portstewart K5Portumna N3Randalstown K5Rathcoole S2Rathdrum T5Rathkeale P3Rathnew U5Rathvilly N5Redcross U6Robertstown N5Roscommon M3Roscrea N4Rosslare Q5Rostrevor L6Roundstone N2Roundwood T4Sandycove U2Slane M5Sligo L3Spiddal N2Sraghmore T4Strabane K4Straffan N5Swords T1Tallaght S2Thomastown P5Thurles P4Tipperary P3Tralee Q2Trim M5Tuam M3Tullamore N4Tulsk M3Waterford Q5Waterville Q1Westport M2Wexford P5Wicklow U5Youghal Q4

Dingle Q1Donegal L4Doolin N2Downpatrick L6Drogheda M5Dromahair L3Drumcliffe L3Drumcondra T2Dublin T2Dun Laoghaire U2Dundalk M5Dundrum T2Dunfanaghy K4Dungannon L5Dungarvan Q4Dungloe K3Dunmore East Q5Ennis P3Enniscorthy P5Enniskerry U3Enniskillen L4Ennistimon N2Fermoy Q3Foynes P2Galway N3Glencullen T3Glendalough T5Glenealy U5Glengarriff Q2Glin P2Gorey P5Greystones U4Hillsborough L6Holywood L6Howth U2Kanturk Q3Kells M5Kenmare Q2Kilbeggan N4Kilbride S3Kilcar L3Kilcolgan N3Kilcullen N5Kildare N5Kilkenny P4Killaloe P3Killarney Q2Killimer P2Killorglin Q2Killough U3Killybegs L3Kilmacanoge U3Kilmacduagh N3Kilrush P2Kinsale Q3Kinvarra N3Knock M3Laragh T5Larne K6Leenane M2Letterfrack M2Letterkenny K4Limavady K5Limerick P3Lisburn L6Lisdoonvarna N2Lismore Q4Listowel P2Londonderry K4Longford M4

Abbeyfeale P2Abbeyleix N4Adare P3Annamoe T5Antrim K5Ardara K3Ardee M5Ardglass L6Ardmore Q4Arklow P6Armagh L5Ashford U5Athenry N3Athlone N4Aughrim T6Ballina L2Ballinasloe N3Ballybofey K4Ballycastle (Mayo) L2Ballycastle (N.I.) K5Ballyconneely N1Ballyferriter Q1Ballygawley L5Ballymena K5Ballymoney K5Ballymote M3Ballyshannon L3Ballyvaughan N2Baltimore R2Bandon Q3Bangor L6Banteer Q3Belfast L6Belleek L4Birr N4Blessington S3Boyle M3Bray U3Bruckless L3Buncrana K4Bushmills K5Cahersiveen Q1Cahir P4Carlingford M5Carlow P5Carrickfergus K6Carrickmacross M5Carrick-on-Shannon M4Carrick-on-Suir P4Cashel P4Castlebar M1Castleisland Q2Castleknock S2Castlerea M3Cavan M4Clarecastle P3Claremorris M3Clifden M1Clonakilty R3Clondalkin S2Clonmacnoise N4Clonmel P4Cobh Q3Coleraine K5Collooney L3Cong M2Cookstown L5Cork Q3Crossmolina L2Dalkey U3

Ireland Index

£

£

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A3

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A1A26

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A26

A37

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A83

A

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N

N59

R286

A47

R315

N56

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R263

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M1

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N11

N55

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N17 N18

R460

N69

N69

N7

N68

N59

N59

N60

N60

N4

N3

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R392

N59

N63

N52

N62

N78 N9

N30

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R173

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R335

N66

N6

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N84

R336

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Selected Street IndexFade Street E5Father Mathew Square C2Fenian Street G5Fishamble Street D4Fitzwilliam Lane G6Fitzwilliam Street Lower H6Fleet Street E3Fownes Street E4Francis Street C4Frederick Street South F5Gardiner Street Lower F1George's Hill C3George's Quay G3Glover's Alley E5Goldern Lane D5Grafton Street E5Granby Place E1Granby Row D1Grangegorman Lower B2Grattan Bridge D3Greek Street C3Green Street D2Hammond Lane C3Hanbury Lane B5Hanover Street East H4Ha'penny Bridge E3Harcourt Street E6Hawkins Street F3Haymarket B3Hendrick Street B3Henrietta Place D2Henry Street E2High Street C4Hill Street F1Inns Quay C3Island Street A3James's Street A4Jervis Lane Lower D3Jervis Lane Upper D2Jervis Street D2John Dillon Street C5John's Lane East D4Johnson Court E5Kevin Street Lower D6Kevin Street Upper C6Kildare Street F5King Street North B2King Street South E5King's Inns Street D2Lamb Alley C4Lemon Street F5Liffey Street Lower E3Liffey Street Upper E2Lincoln Lane B3Lincoln Place G4Little Britain Street D2Little Green Street D3Loftus Lane D2Lombard Street East G4Longford Street Great D5Lord Edward Street D4Lotts E3Market Street A5Marlborough Street F2Mary Street D3Mary Street Little D3Mary's Lane C3May Lane C3Meath Street B5Meetinghouse Square E4Memorial Road G2Mercer Street Lower E5Mercer Street Upper E6Merchant's Quay C4Merrion Row F6Merrion Square East H6Merrion Square North G5Merrion Square South G5Merrion Square West G5Merrion Street Lower G5Merrion Street Upper G5Millennium Bridge E3Molesworth Place F5Molesworth Street F5Moore Lane E2Moore Street E2Mount Street Lower H5Mount Street Upper H6

Mountjoy Street D1Nassau Street F4New Road South C6New Street South C6Nicholas Street C5North Great George Street E1North Wall Quay H3O'Connell Bridge F3O'Connell Street Lower F2O'Connell Street Upper E2Oliver Bond Street B4Ormond Quay Lower D3Ormond Quay Upper D3Ormond Square C3Parliament Street D4Parnell Place E1Parnell Square East E1Parnell Square West E1Parnell Street D2Patrick Street C5Pearse Street G4Pembroke Street Lower G6Peter Row D5Peter Street D5Phibsborough Road C1Phoenix Street North B3Poolbeg Street F3Portland Street A5Price's Lane F3Prince's Street North E2Queen Street B3Rainsford Street A5Redmond's Hill D6Ross Road C5Rutland Place E1Sackville Place F2Schoolhouse Lane F5Sean Macdermott Street Upper F1

Setanta Place F5Seville Place H1Sir John Rogerson Quay H3Smithfield B3South Great George's Street E4

St Andrew's Street E4St Augustine Street B4St Michael's Hill C4St Patrick's Close C5St Stephen's Green East F6St Stephen's Green North F5St Stephen's Green South E6St Stephen's Green West E6Stephen Street Lower E5Stephen Street Upper D5Strand Street Great D3Strand Street Little D3Suffolk Street E4Sycamore Street D4Talbot Street F2Tara Street F3Temple Bar E3Temple Bar Square E3Temple Lane E4The Coombe C5Thomas Court B4Thomas Street West B4Thomas's Lane F2Townsend Street G3Trinity Street E4Usher's Quay B3Victoria Quay A3Watling Street A4Wellington Quay E3Werburgh Street D4Westland Row G4Westmoreland Street F3Wexford Street E6Whitefriar Street D5Wicklow Street E4William Street South E5William's Row E3Winetavern Street C4Wolfe Tone Quay A3Wolfe Tone Street D2Wood Quay C4York Street E5

Abbey Street Lower F2Abbey Street Middle E3Abbey Street Old F3Abbey Street Upper D3Adair Lane E3Amiens Street G1Anglesea Street E4Anne Street South F5Anne's Lane F5Arbour Hill A2Arran Quay B3Arran Street East D3Asdill's Row E3Aston Place E3Aston Quay E3Aungier Street D5Bachelors Walk E3Back Lane C4Baggot Street Lower G6Bedford Row E3Bellevue A5Benburb Street A3Beresford Place G2Bishop Street D6Bolton Street D1Bonham Street A4Bow Street C3Bride Road C5Bride Street D5Bride Street New D6Bridge Street Lower C4Bridge Street Upper C4Bridgeford Street B4Brunswick Street North B2Bull Alley Street C5Burgh Quay F3Capel Street D3Castle Market E4Castle Street D4Cathal Brugha Street F1Cathedral Street F2Chancery Place C3Chancery Street C3Chatham Row E5Chatham Street E5Christchurch Place D4Church Street C3Church Street New B3Church Street Upper C2City Quay G3Clare Street G5Clarendon Row E5Clarendon Street E5College Green E4College Street F4Constitution Hill C1Cook Street C4Cope Street E4Cork Hill D4Crampton Quay E3Crane Lane D4Crane Street A4Crow Street E4Crown Alley E4Cuffe Street E6Cumberland Street North F1Custom House Quay G3Dame Lane E4Dame Street E4Dawson Lane F5Dawson Street F5Dean Street C5D'Olier Street F3Dominick Street Lower D1Dominick Street Upper C1Drury Street E5Duke Lane F5Duke Street F5Earl Street North F2Earl Street South B5Eden Quay F3Essex Quay D4Essex Street East D4Essex Street West D4Eustace Street E4Exchange Street Lower D4Exchange Street Upper D4Exchequer Street E4

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KillrudderyHouse

Mount UsherGardens

Devil'sGlen

Wicklow

PowerscourtHouse

DjouceWoods

Enniskerry

Sandycove

Malahide Castle

Glendalough

Wicklow Gap

Clara LaraFun Park

Sally Gap

Avondale House& Forest Park

Howth

YAW

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KilmacanogeKillough

Glencullen

Blessington

Oldcourt

Ballynockan

Granabeg

Kilbride

Brittas

SaggartTallaght DundrumRathcoole

Clondalkin

Lucan

Dunboyne

Finglas

Malahide

Swords

Portmarnock

Santry

Marino

Drumcondra

Castleknock

BlanchardstownSutton

Stillorgan

Dalkey

Blackrock

Sraghmore

Roundwood

Glendalough

Tomdarragh

Laragh

Annamoe

Rathdrum

ClaraGlenealy

Ballinaclash ArdanairyRedcross

Brittas Bay

Kilbride

Aughrim

Rathnew

Ashford

Newcastle

Greystones

Delgany

KilcooleNewtown

Mt Kennedy

Bray

DunLaoghaire

DUBLIN

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R105R107

R107

R106

R106

R105

N81

N3

N2

R121

R130

R108

R156

R113

N1N81

M1

M1

M50

M50

N4

M11

R759

R759

R114 R115

R117

R116

R115

R115

R756

R755

R755

R765

R764

R763

R752

R761

R761

N11

N11

N11

N11

R754

R750

R750

R751

R755

R752R7

53

N11

DublinInternational

Airport

WicklowHead

Mullaghcleevaun848m

DjouceMountain

886mGreat Sugar

Loaf Mountain506m

LugnaquillaMountain

926m

Kippure754m

Clara

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PhoenixPark

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Sandyford

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Lansdowne Road

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Bayside

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HowthJunction

Kilbarrack

RahenyHarmonstown

Killester

Connolly

Heuston

Sydney Parade

Booterstown

Blackrock SalthillSeaport

Bray

Greystones

Kilcoole

Wicklow

Rathdrum

Dalkey

Sandycove

Killiney

Shankill

Dun Laoghaire

Tallaght

KillineyBay

DublinBay

Ir ishSea

PoulaphoucaReservoir

VartyReservoir

LoughDan

LoughTay

Upper Lake

Liffey

Liffey

Avonbeg

Glenmalure

Avonmor

e

D U B L I N

D U B L I N

M E A T H

W I C K L O W

Dublin County & the Wicklow Mountains

KEY

Place of interest

Airport

Ferry port

Train station

LUAS line terminus

Track

Summit 6 4 2 6420miles km

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHINGYOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

TOP 10

Whether you are travelling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight

to the very best Dublin and Ireland have to offer.

Dozens of Top 10 lists – from the Top 10 venues for Irishmusic to the Top 10 children’s attractions, shops and

hotels – provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs.And to save time and money, there’s even a list of

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Find your way effortlessly using the detailed maps whichfold out from the front and back covers, plus many

smaller maps inside.

Voted Best Guide Book by Guardian andObserver readers

£6.99Printed in Italy

Discover more atwww.dk.com

DUBLIN

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL