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60 seconds with blogger Andrea Chong

Day one of New Zealand Fashion Week began and ended with seasoned pros — Twenty-seven Names, Nom*D and Kate Sylvester — and was

scattered with promising young designers in between.

Third Form was the standout of the

New Generation Show, while new label Wynn Hamlyn provided plenty of cuddly inspiration during the Choose Wool presentation.

Despite the bleak forecast and drizzle, Twenty-seven Names kicked off the day with an outdoor show, seating guests on wooden benches and handing out

umbrellas. Nom*D followed in the evening with a strong and haunting showing, with readings by Sam Hunt playing over the speakers. Mercedes-Benz Presents Kate Sylvester closed the first day of shows with the collection ‘A muse’, and a striking runway installation by artist Simon Glaister.

It’s All About ArtNoted by Zoe WalkerWhat is it about fashion and art? Yesterday’s shows proved that the art world still fascinates, with its focus on creativity over commerce.

Kate Sylvester looked to the muses of the Cubism movement for inspiration for her collection, titled ‘A muse’. The designer has long been inspired by art, and in particular Picasso’s women. The collection was sparked by a visit to the Heide Museum of Modern Art in Melborne, in particular its highlights from the heady 1940s.

Earlier, Twenty-seven Names showed a collection inspired by Judy Chicago’s 1979 feminist installation artwork The Dinner Party, which featured 39 place settings for mythical and historical famous women who have impacted history.

At Nom*D the inspiration was sleep — or a lack of — but the show’s backdrop featured flashes of work by artists Hans Richter and May Ray.

Expect more art world references to come…

I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

n e w z e A l A n d fA s h i o n w e e k

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wednesday August 26, 2015V i VA . C o . n z

Today’s HigHligHTs9.30am Lucilla Gray installation

11am ItZME and Julian Danger

12.30pm her Apparel and willa & Mae

3.30pm new Generation

6pm harman Grubisa

7pm Annah stretton

9pm stolen Girlfriends club

Chit-chat with Rosie Kelway What do you do? I’m a fashion blogger from Singapore. I am still studying English literature as well, so I am juggling this with school.How did you get into fashion blogging? I was actually forced into it. I auditioned for a fashion show online called That F Word and got the part as the fashion host, and the producers were like “you only have Facebook!? You need to have Instagram and Twitter and a blog so that your audience can connect with you.” It was just a natural progression for me to talk about clothes. I started to get a following, and left the show last year to focus on my blog.What are you wearing? Third Form for the New Generation show later, with Tibi Shoes and a DKNY clutch.What differences have you noticed between singapore and New Zealand fashion? Singapore is a tropical country, so we don’t dress for winter at all. It’s fun to see how people dress up, and how people

live because we don’t get that in Singapore.Hot tips for surviving Fashion Week? Just be yourself. If you are having trouble finding clothes to wear go on Pinterest or Instagram and find influences online.Any tips for street style and standing out from the crowd? Firstly, you can pull off anything as long as you have confidence. You can look like you dress the best but, if you don’t have confidence, and are slouching around in the corner, no one will take notice of you.

What happens when we give top model ashleigh good a goPro at Fashion Week? Watch our exclusive video today at Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek

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Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Wednesday August 26, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

R U n wAY h i g h l i g h t s

TwenTy-seven nAmes

AndreA moore new GenerATIon: ThIrd form

David Skipwith, New Zealand Herald rugby league reporter“This outfit and overall look evokes a Tim Burton-like aesthetic, but that may just be the Edward Scissorhands-style make-up. The grey top looks rather bleak, while the heavier skirt hangs like two mismatching tarpaulins. The glaring red origami-influenced head piece resembles a Catholic cardinal’s hat, adding a touch of The Da Vinci Code to it all. Like the plot to that film/book, this outfit lacks consistency and leaves me dissatisfied. Next!”

Jade Ingram, early childhood teacher“I’d wear the skirt, it would look great with black tights and boots. The top however? More Queen of Hearts than fashion, right?”

“real People” review the shows

See more LooKS from the ShowS at ViVa.co.nz/faShionweeK

the MAnY fACes of… Model MARnie hARRisPhotography by James K. Lowe

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This look was referred to by Dmonic Intent designer Maxine Wooldridge as the most commercial look from their show yesterday. Our volunteers away from Fashion Week weigh-in with their thoughts…

Nina Rejthar, 10 year-old“Well, I don’t know about you but I think this lady or woman looks like she’s dead. I personally think she looks like the Queen of Hearts with her big pope’s hat and her skinny, mini, little lips. “Her dress looks like it’s made out of silver painted flax and she looks like a statue. One of her arms is longer than the other, her eyes look like devil’s eyes and her earring-necklace looks like it’s made out of beads. My mum’s beads. “I like her shoes, but I think she should have different coloured stockings. “Why is her face a different colour from her arms? I don’t know many people who wear that much sunscreen in winter, do you?”

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V i Va . c o . n z / Fa S H i o n W E E K

The young designer to watch will showcase her new collection with an installation this morning

What are you doing at NZFW this year?This season I’m working on a solo presentation. It is installation based, which I feel is more expressive than a traditional runway show.If you weren’t a designer, what would you do? I’ve wanted to do something design-based from a young age, so it would have to be in the creative field.What are your thoughts on the representation of women in fashion? At the moment I feel there is a movement towards positive representation of women. This is something I try to do in my own work, but I think the industry as a whole could still do more.Do you think there is a lack of diversity in NZ fashion? I think NZ fashion is quite diverse for its size, but I would like to see a push for more diversity within the industry.The last text message you sent? “Just a couple of mins away!”Three favourite models? Juliette Perkins, Raina Masters and Beau Lyttle.Death row meal? Chocolate pudding.The last thing you read and loved? Gareth Morgan’s article on the flag debate, summarised as story telling vs corporate branding.Where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time? Designing, creating and exploring.What’s something someone would be surprised to find out about you? That I have Maori heritage because I’m from the UK.If you could spend 10 minutes in a room with anyone, who would it be? My family.

focus on: lucilla gray

FOR THE ULTIMATE FASHION WEEK COVERAGE

ViVa.co.nz/FaSHionWEEK

Look out for:• Front row photos from last night’s shows

• Expert front row reports from every show

• Exclusive access to Mercedes-Benz Presents

Kate Sylvester

• All the off-the-runway action with daily street style

• Fashion Week through the eyes of photographer

James k. Lowe

• Video featuring the true Fashion Week insiders

• Photos from the front row and backstage

• Blogger Katherine Lowe’s coverage of the week’s

top models

• Each day’s key beauty looks and trends

• Front row diaries from those in the know

• Plus loads more!

Our expert fashion team will bring you the most comprehensive daily coverage of NZ Fashion Week 2015, with insider action from the front row, backstage and after parties. Every day we will bring you exclusive content in association with Mercedes-Benz, with Viva Daily and live coverage throughout the day at Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek. Make it your first — and only — online destination.

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Fashion’s most glamorous event continues today — with Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek the only online destination you’ll need.

Add to Playlist A carefully crafted tracklist helps set the mood and tone of a collection. Here, the music from three of yesterday's key shows:

twenty-SeVen nameS1. Alanis Morissette All I Really Want2. Mo Say You'll Be There3. Amerie 1 Thing4. Nicki Minaj Truffle Butter5. Lana Del Rey High by the Beach6. Haim Forever7. sugababes Overload

Kate SyLVeSter1. Brian Eno Baby’s on Fire2. The Beatles I Am the Walrus3. David Bowie Queen Bitch4. Crocodiles She Splits Me Up5. Brian Eno Needle in the Camel’s Eye

nom*d1. Alastair Galbraith Mongolian Rhapsody2. David Kilgour and sam Hunt Jerusalem Blues3. Alastair Galbraith Concentrate4. Alastair Galbraith and David Kilgour Ford K5. Alastair Galbraith Kyrie Eleison 6. Alastair Galbraith Prime Numbers

Co-designer for Harman Grubisa, Jessica Grubisa also has a formidable sense of style. She and co-designer Madeline Harman will make their Fashion Week debut tonight. Each day this

week, she’ll share her favourite accessory selfies.

Selfies with Jess

The boss bITch seLfIeI’m wearing vintage Versace glasses purchased by my aunty in London the day Gianni Versace was shot, with Vivienne

Westwood ‘‘SEX’’ earrings because sex sells. Lip colour is from the Rihanna x M.A.C collaboration, RiRi Woo.

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Wednesday August 26, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

in 2011, unsuspecting grocery store customers, contemplating which can of beans to buy, were snapped out of their domestic trance as an army of Stolen Girlfriends Club-clad models stormed down the aisles towards

them. That was three years before Karl Lagerfeld staged Chanel’s runway show among supermarket produce in Paris, and although Rihanna wasn’t in attendance at New World Victoria Park, the SGC stunt still managed to get people, locally and internationally, talking.

Later that year, while hundreds waited to get inside an industrial venue during New Zealand Fashion Week, male models busted out of portaloos to an unsuspecting crowd, before Penny Pickard, Ngahuia Williams and other local runway stars stripped off tacky 80s prom dresses to reveal the latest SGC collection beneath.

That’s not to mention the boozy, who’s who after-parties — held at strip clubs, underground car parks and casinos — which offered a well-earned respite for weary Fashion Week attendees, as well as plenty of juicy tidbits to fill the gossip pages on Sunday.

While these gritty events have built a rock n’ roll profile for Stolen Girlfriends Club, that’s not to say the trio behind the brand — Marc Moore, Luke Harwood and Dan Gosling — don’t mean business. Indeed, to mark its 10-year anniversary, the brand opened its first flagship store on Newmarket’s Nuffield St. Here it rubs

shoulders with high-end neighbours such as Karen Walker and Superette, and the clientele is far removed from those beer-soaked celebrations.

That’s exactly how they intended the brand to be, recalls Marc. “We were really obsessed with stores like Zambesi and Fabric when we first began, and we thought there needed to be a brand or product in those stores that just had a touch more fun to it.”

The beginnings of the brand lie in a 2004 exhibition Marc staged, titled Stolen Girlfriends Club, at High St gallery Modus Operandi.

“Nine out of the 15 paintings were sold on the night, including Marc’s favourite piece from the show, I Fall in Love Every Friday at 8:30, which featured three images of starlet Mischa Barton from The OC. Very cute,” wrote New Zealand Herald reporter Linda Herrick at the time.

“It was about dudes who would steal girlfriends and treat them really good and rescue them from shitty relationships,” says Marc. “People really liked that name ... we just went with what the market was telling us.”

Moore and fellow surfers Harwood and Gosling set to work making slogan T-shirts printed with “Stolen Girlfriends Club Says Relax”, a parody of the “Frankie Says Relax” T-shirts by 80s Brit band Frankie Goes To Hollywood.

After magazines such as Black caught wind of the token T-shirts, stockists started

knocking at their door, and the brand became a whole lot more than just jersey rib tees.

“We hadn’t actually got around to making a collection, nor did we know how to, so we created a brand almost before we had created a product, in a way,” says Marc.

It wasn’t until 2007 that they presented their first “proper” collection, which included futuristic, studded pieces and skin-tight denim, to a packed New Zealand Fashion Week crowd. It was then that the trio decided they were going to democratise the elitist fashion week crowd, letting upwards of 1200 people into the modest Viaduct tents.

While that enthusiasm for the brand has created a cult-following, it hasn’t all been parties and stunts for the trio, and there have been times along the way when they’ve thought about giving it up.

“We’re a brand that was started with 4000 bucks on a Visa and no investment, nothing. Everything has come from ourselves, just from constant reinvestment from the money that’s earned by the company and put back into the company,” says Marc.

Like many fashion brands, they’ve had to make compromises with the realities of being commercial, and though a completely sheer cut-out maxi dress may look cool on the runway, it’s hardly going to appeal to the mass market for everyday wear.

“Coming up with something that a wider market will actually want to wear is quite a

cool challenge,” Marc says. “We realise the importance of it, because if you don’t have that, you don’t have a business basically.”

The brand’s jewellery line is that drawcard, and acts as the big earner for the business.

“Commercial sensibility is a huge factor for us as the business progresses,” says Luke, “as opposed to the few years ago when it was really a second thought.”

The brand now produces three fashion collections, three jewellery stories and two denim injections a year, supplying 50 stockists in New Zealand and 20 worldwide.

“As time goes by, you learn the importance and art of profitability which is needed to keep a company like ours turning, expanding and exploring new endeavours.”

Tonight, the brand is hosting its NZFW show at the St James Theatre, but instead of showing the upcoming winter collection, the in-season Township Rebellion will be on the runway. This is another commercially-savvy move because it caters to the impatient, fast-fashion audience that wants to buy clothes more or less off the runway. As for the next big reveal — the supermarket stunt, the trashed prom dresses? We’ll have to wait and see.Photographer / Guy Coombes. Fashion editor / Dan Ahwa. Hair / Kyla Rose, Zoe Clark, Dezarae Jessop for Redken. Make-up / Angelica Boquiron, Sharon Ngen, Rae Sacha for M.A.C Cosmetics. Thanks to Red 11 and 62 Models.

DEsIGns of A DEcADEStolen Girlfriends Club may be the life of the party, but the designers

behind the brand still mean business, writes Jessica Beresford

Stolen Girlfriends Club pieces from the past and present, worn by some of the brand’s favourite models (L to R): Derya Parlak, Chrystal Liu, Veronica Crockford-Pound, Ngahuia Williams, Max Xavier, Vincent Paunovic, Penny Pickard.

ogxhairnzAvailable from selected pharmacies & department stores naaonwide, or call 0508 734 466 for stockists. |

ogxhairnzAvailable from selected pharmacies & department stores naaonwide, or call 0508 734 466 for stockists. |

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Wednesday August 26, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

Prada iPad mini case $450.

The nzfw editDAN AHWA,

VIVA FASHION EDITOR

sTockisTs: gubb & Mackie (09) 302 1949, oki-Ni oki-ni.com, outerknown outerknown.com, Prada (09) 366 7121, levis 0508 501 555, strangely Normal (09) 309 0600, Puma nz.puma.com.

Gubb & Mackie jacket $250.

Levis 511 jeans $149.90.

Gosha Rubchinsky socks, $45, from Oki-Ni.

Puma suede classic trainers $100.

Outerknown baby alpaca blend sweater $582.

I enjoy clothes but am not obsessed by them. I’ve learned to invest in things that I can wear all the

time. My wardrobe reflects my love of American West Coast preppy, which is more relaxed and not as put together as the East Coast preppy look. I’ve always

had an interest in surf, sport and streetwear and my wardrobe reflects this. I like the idea of wearing a classic surf or streetwear T-shirt with more formal

trousers, a leather belt and a pair of loafers. It’s definitely that high-low mix that I’m drawn to with my personal style. Sometimes during the week I’ll need to do a shoot or go to the office, so my look

really is about something that can work from day to night. If it’s something a little formal, then a tailored jacket works. Recently I had a suit made by the team

at Crane Brothers that I can wear any time of day. It’s grey wool with a fine pinstripe and I love wearing

it with trainers. I have a whole lot of linen shirts and short-sleeved shirts that I’m looking forward

to wearing over spring, and I’m really into the 50s’ boxy-style shirts from Strangely Normal. My style, I

would say, can veer from classic to middle-aged dad, which suits me fine. As long as I’m comfortable then that’s all that matters. I dress for myself and not for

others.

strangely Normal shirt $195.

@danahwa

New VintageThe new look Gucci, under recently-appointed creative director Alessandro Michele,

is multi-coloured, eccentric and unapologetically retro. He drove home this point with his Gucci Resort 2016 collection, a continuation of the new wave of granny-geek-chic.

illustrating the trends by Sean Cai

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dAnIeLLe TrIes IT onFashion student and Viva intern Danielle Clausen showcases the work of young designers to watch

Sophia Hattingh brings together precision and the beauty of the bias cut to create silk slips that feel incredibly special. Custom dyed silk and the inclusion of laser cut leather in some pieces further drive this feeling home.

With a focus on not being restricted by conventional beauty norms and fashion standards, Sophia’s process is about more than just creating beautiful things. The brand’s campaign imagery is a testament to this.

After completing her fashion design studies at AUT, Sophia undertook a postgraduate year where she crafted glasses out of resin and human hair — something that certainly got people talking.

I decided to dip my toe in and pair one of her silk camisoles with jeans. The silhouette of the slips is informed directly by the wearer’s body. She notes that her slips don’t attempt to hide, change or do anything particularly to the body, other than showing it for what it is.

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V i Va . c o . n z / Fa S H i o n W E E K

Managing editor amanda linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor dan ahwa. Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Writers Rosie kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill. Photographer guy coombes. Designers sue Pat, Beth Walsh, lucy casley. sub editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant anna lee. Intern danielle clausen.

Contributors sean cai, Jessica grubisa, stacy gregg, katherine lowe, James k. lowe, dan Roberts, david skipwith, Jade ingram, Nina Rejthar. Advertising Michelle Fowler.Contact us viva@nzherald.co.nz

Daily

Culottes continue to be a key trend this season, with the wide-legged voluminous cut a surprisingly flattering look when worn with a standout pair of heels and tailored jacket. The focus of the Staple + Cloth spring/summer collection Reverie is all about playful prints contrasted with tactile fabrics.• Staple + cloth “maxwell” culottes, $269, from ShopViva.co.nz

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new & notedIt’s hard to keep up with all the new openings around town — here are a few worth a visit.

eAT @ The sheLTer (below)Owners Vicki Taylor and Mark Thomson have enlisted the help of architects Pennant & Triumph for the refit of The Shelter’s resident cafe, serving food from Catroux and Eighthirty Coffee. The new space also houses a feature wall by street art collective BMD.• the Shelter, 78 mackelvie St, Ponsonby.

LITTLe And frIdAyGoodbye Good One, hello Little and Friday. The Douglas St hot spot, which closed its doors last month, has been taken over by local favourite Little and Friday, which is serving savoury galettes, pies, cakes, doughnuts and, of course, coffee.• Little and friday, 42 douglas St, Ponsonby.

ThIs ThAT cAfeFashion students Cherry Kim and Zoe McNicholas run this cafe-gallery with a focus on tea — not coffee — teaming up with retailer T2 to provide an extensive menu. The cafe is designed to provide young, emerging artists with a place to exhibit their work.• this that, 57 Lorne St, city.

rALPh’sServing fried chicken, jalapeno poppers and burgers with a side of curly fries, Ralph’s is the older sibling to local favourite Vinyl Coffee Shop, and is ideal for a hearty meal.• 225B dominion rd, mt eden.

The GLAss GooseAs if there needed to be more restaurant choices on Federal St, the people who brought us Fort St Union have opened a new eatery, directly underneath the Sky Tower. At the Glass Goose the menu promises freshly shucked oysters, wagyu beef lettuce cups, Horopito lamb backstrap and an impressive cocktail menu.• 78 federal St, city.

Sporty SpiCEthe Apple watch is finally here and if

you’re an avid Apple fan working across several different Mac products from a laptop to an iPhone,

you’re likely to get more use out of the watch. It’s a smart and sleek addition to the Apple family and, as the very first product developed after the death of one of the company’s influential founders Steve Jobs in 2011, the

Apple Watch has much to live up to. Embraced by fashion industry heavyweights Anna Wintour

and Karl Lagerfeld, it’s designed to work with varied lifestyles, with three distinct looks: sporty, elegant and

classic. The brightly coloured sporty version (left) is made from a custom, high-performance fluoro elastomer for

people on the go.

• Apple Watch sport from $599. apple.com/nz

shEEn tEAM

Report by beauty editor Janetta MackayIf there’s one makeup trend threatening to break through pre-Christmas for party season it’s surely the modern take on glam rock meets disco diva meets space-age siren. The spangly mash-up has been bubbling under for a while, threatening to rain glitter on all our parades.

now get ready for metallic mania to go mainstream. Sparkle and shimmer are showing up all over, ranging from razzle-dazzle accents to softly subtle sheen. Reflective touches in eye, cheek, lip and nail finishes are illuminating a starry new look to beauty.

There are obvious 70s references in the arrival of products David Bowie and Debbie Harry would have loved to have got their hands on. But unlike DIY glitter back in the day, the new-generation sparklers won’t leave a tacky trail.

Show looks tend to the dramatic, such as the silver eye (above) created by M.A.C artist Caitlin Thomas for Workshop and helen cherry at the Marr factory shows this month. follow the lead in playing up just one area of the face, but in a more contained way, focussing on the lashline and lid.

The number of new products available make this easy, including standout liquid metallic shadows from Dior and Yves Saint Laurent and a whole Disco Daze collection from M.A.c

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