Threads Magazine 02 - December 1985 January 1986

7/25/2019 Threads Magazine 02 - December 1985 January 1986

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Kng Sk Sng Hndvn Qg


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E

rom the time fifteen years agothat I first sat down at a loom in thePanama Canal Zone of all places 1 knewthat weaving held a special fascinationfor me. .

After a few years of exper-imentation 1 started to exploredifferent ways to make my

living as a weaver I wove rugspillows and yardage but it tookso long that they simply werentprofitable

I gave up on the idea until oneday in late 1980 when I saw my first AVloom I instantly knew that Id found the perfect production loom

Today in just three years my businesshas become highly successful I now use three AVL

looms and my line of women's fashions "brookweaves, is carried in shops from Honolulu

to Marthas Vineyard.I can honestly say that I couldnt

have done it without AV

AV LOOMSOrn r D 22

Chi, Cirni 95928(96) 893-495

Sd $2 fo complete catlog.


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e ource orll our uombl ee

IIUD 1000

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w

o

ve

r

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t

e

Q

y

l

AND 1gtasWOENRNTED CARE

B

NSTRCTON AND SZE AS

N STOC FOR IMMIIYWRTE O CA FOR A ()

OTH N TEET

O NGEE C 322

You can make abeautiful rug in

a week-end!

o beatiu eslts wt speed and ease, orniqe Electc Tft Hook Needle s nbeat ableYo can ceate beatfl rgs and wa l hangngsof envable workmanshp Tigt loop, sag or inbetween p to 500 oops pe nte! Easy-tofolow instrctions inclded

There's nothing like it anywhere. Fll price is

$99.50, pls $7 anding and shipping Floneyback gaantee, of corse

!

FREE_____ 7

Free Color atalo

with your order -Photographs of46dierentdesigns for rugs and wa hangings, ee withEectric Needle

D ncosedis$995 ps$7 for anding and shipping,tota $165, or each Rmpestitskin's ectric TftHk neede. Aso send R Coor Cataog.

Send Coor Cataog of rg!wahanging photos oEncosed s $ (refndabe with frst order).

Name

Address

City State Zip

Check/money orde ony Do not send cash/stamps

RUMPELSTILSKIN'S

Rt 1 Box 915/Hisboro OR 9714

Dember/Ju

Th CNTRY CRAFTANis a careful reproduction Flax Wheel made here in New England

wit

a few changesto keep mode spinners happy.

U

Double Drive System " Oriface New Larger Bobbin

Step Pulley with1221ard 122 Ratios Laquer Finish Easy Change of Ratios

with Step Pulley

oo a r t at a a a o o mor iormatio t to

U PO Box 412 Littleton, MA 14 144

ar iqr ivit

7


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AEG AND CONTRUCTION TEC HQUE

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Clean Amercan Feece fo Spnning,

Whees, ooms, Accessores, Weekend Hand

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Complete line of GenuinePATERNAYAN Persian Ya.

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AD-A-HARNESS LOOMS-aditina Qaity

AD-A-CADjCAM SYSTEMS-ndstting nnvatins

MANUFACTURED BY

MOMBE LOOMSP.. Box 86 Beech Ridge Road York, Maine 00 - 0-6-808

-ESTABLISHED 6

Ca or wite today for ou new catalog.

9


10/88

X

he three moos ohoog rgsby Helen Oakley

Well to rug ookig I ot mete ki iulge i y te twoperpettor wo uck ito te loclMetoit curc wlke out wittwo ulouly expeive Orietl t t ee ote y ric priioer ever were ee gi Nor m Ireerrig to te experiece o my rieDot mot gite rug ooker oe owoe vorite compoitio w rzelyooke urig er yr le ookig tit rom te viewpoit o te wywrmteur I like to o tig my owwy ot lwy te ortoox wy) Imtikig ot o muc o te ow ote wy: te tree moo o ookig rug

Your irt coiertio oul e:Wt o I wt to get out o tiemcretive proce You will non

disptendm get rugtt i i youtick wit it util te e wic leme to vie: trt mll I kow lywo worke or 12 yer o 9t y12t rug ever i ii it Beyote rug itel wt ele c rug ookiggive you Ti epe o wt you relookig or c e etirely ieretor ec prctitioer.

you re i ee o rug ecueyou re ecortig or reecortig roomor meetig te elie o ouewrmig te you migt e i temoo or latch hooking Ti i te

implet o ll tecique Te rug ime o cv gri or me trougwic ort piece o wool re loope kotte Becue o te rigiity o teme te ptter re ligtly qureo toug it i urpriig ow muccurvig c e cieve Te kit or teerug iclue excellet irectio te mteril re reltively iexpeivetoug i ti meto i llmeto te et mteril yiel te etreult I it t mt you wt youcoul ue ig me te cepetyr ut i you wt rug or eieertie ll or livig room oly te

iget qulity mteril will oTe irt rug ever me (ize 3 i

y 76 i wic elie my vice outtrtig mll) w emitrctptter o rillitly colore overizeleve w it i te wiw o yrop tt w goig out o uie owitout relly iteig to I got teet or le. A I've lwy like tereult toug ltc ookig i my letvorite tecique.

My vorite teciq ue i pn ch needle.You work o te revere o te eigite o te rot i ltc ookig

Ti i ometig o rwck or we

10

you tur te rug over everytig cete oppoite wy Alo te eig you ee you work come up moot clerut te you tur it over tere re lltoe uzzy plce You c correct loty clippig or eve erig

Were ltc ookig my e

lere rom writte itructio puceele i et lere i t let oeeio o emotrtio Te crt opwere you uy mteril c prolyow you ow to ue tem Beieckig, ptter wool eele,you will wt rme or et o ugewooe oo I ue te oop t tetrt o te rug to ol it irm ut ter've complete ome o te oliectio I work o my lp tretcig temteril git my kee Te people t

uilt atioal Te ourt ieil exiit o quiltorgize y te Diry Br CulturlCeter i Ate OH oere vrielook t cotemporry quilt motly romte ite Stte Egl I teretore witewe 2t y 35tr quilt were ug o wll prtitio or upee reely to e

viewe rom eiter ie

te op were I go or mteril lug tmy meto ut tey like my reult

Puc eele i vertile tougepecilly eective or lrge implemoti Becue te wool i tick te ckig trog lie) puceelerug re evy urle Tey re

me to e ue Te ltcook type clo e tro upo ut I preer tereeom o te puc eele t i logret or lettig out ggreio itrequire viciou t to m ke ice loop

Puc eele goe t ut i you rei o urry you migt wt to coierte traditiona meto o ookig rugTritiolly ooke rug re te moteutiul Tey re me rom rrowtrip o woole mteril pulle troug ckig o urlp or lie or mok [

Vernica Ftzgerad's ntied qilt (above)

chsen best oj s w her $000 MiramNathanRobertss "ttice Ineave ef)w peopes ce

Juror loy Herm o te RewickGllery Dvi Horug TerriHcock Mgt two quilter wo werelo ivite to ow coe livelycollectio o quilt repreetig mypproce to cocept imge mterl tecique: trct repreettioo te quilt collge literl

reerig o tritiol ptcworkptter tt reue crp ot creullymoulte gri o co lor cotrtyrege mipultio o peppliqu igure ilkcreeeimge pit rg ilk yecotto metllic kit pitkiglyiie quiltig mcieewrwege work

Aout l te 83 exiite workwill tour S mueum gllerie i198586 te ow i Jp i prig1987 or more iormtio ctlogwrite to te Diry Br Box 77

Ate OH 571 -B Levine

Th Main


11/88

YE

TT - W - IBATI - AIT - TI

LlnUD PROcio Reactive DyesCibacro Reactive DyesPROcio Reactive Dyes

Ciba Kito Acid Dyes-Washfast Acid Dyes

TEXTILE NKS PigmetsALL SUPPLIES

EXELLEN SSILISS I I LI

PRO u*


12/88

clt, int mll n clely et lp Tetl tt i ue i like crcet k,ut it nice rune wen kn nle tt nuggle int te n

Triinlly ke rug re rellywrk rt rter tn cr ite.Oten tey re rete tpetrie

Teir euty lie in te eliccy witwic eign cn e renere. Fineline n utle ing re pile ntere' rm r ll kin cretivityTeyre lw ging ut never mntnu(veru te ltck type). Yurking rytm ecme ting,memeric cmrting Te clr reininite. Te reult re eirlm

A t ct, tritinl rug kinger te wiet rnge te treetecnique. I yu re in urry t trking, yu migt uy reyye wlwtce, wic cn e in vtrry clr. Yu ul lwy te

cutting yurel, te wit tripi integrl t te inie pruct Wenkeeping te ct wn i mre imprtnttn getting n wit te rug, yu cn yen cut l wlen uit, kirt, wl,r jcket Te cnitin te mterilen't mtter, nr e it clr r cut,ut it mut e irmly wven, nt t

2

evy, n 1% wl. Te prcee te Pentgnn te Mll n teCpitl n te incln Memril TtCritm lit grwn y wr mut until peple rm every tte nmny reign cuntrie ent 25pnel, enug rin t tretc 15 mile

rempl ut im cnuming, n eyeing require me kill . Yu r wnyeing i epecilly pprprite wen yure plnning meing t len witn elie ecr.

Ti ring me t my inl wr

vice Dn't jut mke rug pln it r peciic plce r pern O cure, yucn cnge yur min nce it' inie,ut ving pln give yu niceeeling, epecilly elpul wen yu'repling lng in pleing rytm.An te pleure y wit te rug.

On ec 18in. y 36in. pnel w

emriere, pinte, wven, r evenetypinne w te mker culn'ter le in nucler wr. Fr me,tt treure w vt n neuluteill r te w r te un Fr ter, itw pernl n peciicmy cilren,my g, r even NY. Jet' FreemnMcNeil' vrie tll ply

Hee Oey, j Mhsset s theuthr j seer hdes bs

tr h ibbo

Te repne t Merritt' ie w vt ut quiet well, never y, utcnnly grwing Peple w never een invlve in emntrinwere mve t mke nner, tBck in 1982 Jutine Merrit, Denver,

CO, viin tying ptcwrkrin run te Pengn n te

tre eir er" Merritt rvele y urm tte t tte, tying wit

wever wul ve er, clmlyexplining er ie n prying rntin e cul keep trveling

t nniverry e tmicming Hirim n Ngki Se iguree wul nee 1.8 mile rin, rut 2, iniviul egmentMerri gt ut er Critm li ninvite er rien prticipte.

On Augut 1985, te viinmterilize Te in w tie run

Merrit riginl ie w t tic llte pnel tgeter, ut te Cpitl plicewuln't llw te prject tructtreet r rwy, te prticipntewe li ttle rin tie t te crner [

--- ---------------

o y joyo !They wil hold a sharpeedge longer than any otherscissor made. The razor sharpedges guarantee a cean, teafree cut in the finest siks as welas the heaviest tweeds heavychrome plated pivot screw assres alifetime of smooth chatter free useEach Hidekane scissor s handmade bythe maste scissor maker Inoue iyoshi.Mrlnoue must erform over 00separate stepsto compete a dekane scisso, and poductions limited to a few pair each day Hidekanescissos are

available

in three sizes. Eachscissor comes attractively packaged, postpaid.Sharper Edge catalog included. Length is 0" ength of bade 'Oder No06.00 . . . .9 PP ength is 0' length of bade6"Oder No.06006 9 PP ength is ength of bade6'"Order No06.00 . . . 99 PP Sharper Edge catalog 0H H 173 Clement Ave, Dep. T-2 Alaeda CA 94 50 I Phoe (45) 52855Eclosed is hek/oey ordered cad number fo N M_______

DRESS________

_

Pone

caoria esidets add sales tax STAE

ZP

--------------------ThMaazin


13/88

176 pages, 80 phtos . Eac onexample f fabri manipuan

$13.95

A Av:

BEL...ITED ULTUREA de bk me ha 50bes. $11 95

h rMO :

Ls s B 6O-T

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Fs C es 6%

Wese 2 e 40%

".

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SBW-IG SBAMJin xin

f yu lve t sew?!Sw- Sms is fr yu

Sw- Sms s an nfrmatna pubica-tin cncernng a aspects f te sewngndustry. We are dedcated t cmmuncatng new deas, hepful nfrmatin,and elated sevces t u eaders

Educating and nspng sewing pepe isu gal!

Make me effcent use f sewing timetrugh shr cuts and sef knwedgeI

Impve self cnfdence!

Excting lustated educatinal artces!

Special emphass n eader paricpatn

We bing deas and skls tat keep yu

nfrmed save yu mney and add fla tyur sewng ceatveness.

We wuld enjy aving yur pnns tcustmze u puicatin f yu

ADVERTISING SPAC AVAILAB

CONTRBUTIG WRITRS WECOM

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embr/Janua


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An

Lean ow o make fel, staw abrc coveed hats w e easy o oow sep-ysep stuctons onane in te mostcompee and unqe m ne book everPerect or ome sewes, dol makes, ancostmers. ndes a st of suppers an mode and sorca patens Sp r abon pages Brouresavaabe

Send $1 9.95 + $1 2 poslage. reidenl add $1. 0 a lax.

(Peae pay n S fund Aow wk o dvy.

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PTrds of your f wov to your uts

W you mk us youm mmors or yoursrmmbrcs for ovd osmrcn fmy fs wys mor coofucozy d comfobcus of pcwork ut sy'r nto trdtow trsurKp t rdt o vMk u for somo tynd you' mk mmoy or tomorrow

R NWR ZN w p youmk uts fd uts coct uts joy uts Its fu ofpttrs coor potos ws of ss sows cotsts;ds spros d structos forutn g procts It sopcs rng fom trdto tcn us o modr ovtons rom u dsgng to ut cr from coutry comfors to comporry ut rsts. Wtr you'r utovr or ut mkr bgr or xp ts mgns or you. Jon us tody

OE !

You gt 32-pg ctog ncudng pttrns n xtr fr ut pttrn wth your frst copyAd you gt ut pttrns vud ovr whch yr of your subscrpton

QUILTER'S NEWSLEER MAGAZINEIIIII

3 ept. THP IWheatdge, CO 33My paymen is eclosed for: I Sample Issue wih Ca $250 D '-yr wih Ca $675 D Fl Year (10 ssues) wih Caalog $ 50 Exra-Big Special 5h Aiversary sse $395 ($ ph)

ame

I I a! .Dm/Ju

H

The Schacht Baby Wolf is a thougtfuly engineered porabe oom. Designed for mobiity, you' probaby betempted to take it to workshops cassesout onto the porc, or to a friendsAnd if space is a probem simpy fod

the oom up and ro it to some out ofthe way pace

The Schac ht Bab y Wof is a perfect rstoom or for that matter its a perfect

second oom Use the Baby Wof to t out yarns experiment withnew weaves or start a second project without invoving your big oom.

We didnt sacrice any mporant big oom features in the SchachtBaby Wof It has a inc weaving widthand is avaiabe in 4arness 8 arnessand 4-Now 4Latermodes Mostimporanty

li=

the Baby Wofis made witte same higsandards and ded-

[

J

:

=

ication to the cra ofhandweaving thatare a par of yourwork

The Baby Wof isus one of temany ne andweaving products madeby Schacht

:

S p i n d eCompanyWe oer a ompleteine ofooms and accessories

coor cataog

Bi

x

1


18/88


19/88

n't

n

anlUeNow that you' ve found o ut what hrs has to offr k p th idas and infoation comngwith a hrr sbsrii You can start with th prmir issu, this issu or th nxt

Whichvr you choos you 'll rciv six bimonthly issus flld with dtaild articls onswing, waving, knitting, stitchry, quilting and much mor-all by xprt craftspopl.

t's a rar opportunity to dvlop your skills, xchang idas and xplor nw aras of

crativity. And you can bcom a hrr sbsribr for just $ 1 6 a yar-$5 Iss than you' dpay for th sam issus on th nwsstand Just us th coupon blow, or call tollfr, 800222 and us your crdit card. (n Conncticut, call 26 8171

ewp chebcptoto

T

'd like o subscrib to magazne at he rae of js or one year-sxsses (S19 osid th U..). I I am ever disappoined, I ndersand ha I can

cancel my sbscription and receie a rend or all nmaed copies.

tart with premier sse tar wih his sse art wh next ss

Name

ddress

__

_

_

__

_

Ctytae Zp

D Bll me D Paymen encosed MasterCard D V A Am Exp.

Chare Card #

Exp. Date_ Signaure __

T T oh ain tree Box PT2 eon C


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Dcb 1985/Janua 198 23


24/88

A VitthAnniAlbersSome timely talk and a chance to see

0 years of 's weavings

Martina Margettsa i Aler t oce crm irm. Ater lietimeo cretive work out oipirtiol tecig e i

moet out er cievemet ort-

rigt i er jugmet Ayoe wo reer emil ookOn Weaving OnDesigning kow ometig o er itoxictig mixture o etetic iquiry tecicl expertie

Her xi i GermAmeric rom teBuu to Blck Mouti College iNort Croli to New Hve, CT, wit 1 ourey to Mexico Sout Americ teprimry iverio, te retropective ex-iitio t te Rewick Gllery llow uto olow pprecite

We I rrive t Mr Aler' I wtruck y te utere greur o er clpor oue it cl m, moer iterior.

It purit logic iciplie rigt, i crcteritic lo o er work rrive tlowly, te prouct o pproc to ormt irt ituitively te metoicllyevelope Te Buu yer erlytextile culture, epecilly ciet Peruvi- ve mot proouly iluece erwork ttitue.

The BauhausAter perio t Berli Hmurg rtcool Ai Aler cme to te Buut it trt Tere i micoceptio," ever, tt oe wet to te Buu

it ll et up wit cle certipurpoe. It w't o We rely tocompletely i our ow wy, our ow i m,our ow purpoe .. ..

Te Buu w mll plce1 to15 people rom ll prt o te worl, ki o commuity i te Buu

Aes gy we this wa hang in

192 heih yea at the auha. It is a a-cott pain weave b coth 12 ses is is o an editi oveeoded in 1964 y un Sz in Zuch.

k-Whi-d, " 69 in. x 4% in. Cocti o auha-Achiv, Mseu

tung West ein.

24 Thr Ma


25/88

Ai Aber i 1981

m 1985/Ju 1986

w kw grully it w ecue tewrk tt te tuet pruce wt i w clle te Buu tyle w tyle t ll it w jut t ig wt ee e ere it et eig u-iterete i ecrti expreiut i teril it ue"

Te Buu wevig cl ive rix tuet t te trt, wit ly icl itructi tecer wit icrt ckgru I it like tex

tile t irt," Aler cee, ecue tugt it w t y Yu kw yu re we yu re twety r , yuwt t uil ew wrl tugttextile it quite e teril r it" Seilly ce te textile wrkp y prce eliiti eelig tt ecult ge te ltertivew-wrk etlwrk wll pitig r gleve tug te preece er utureu, Je Aler ttrcte er gret-ly t te ltter) Se ece ke: Ict y wy wit te tig yu tquite kw It jut ppe tt yu egi

t tik, ti i ctcig y iteret, yu tke tre ter it lkprig i e wy yu tiketig y evelp r ti ut tik ki pyule i ecery ut eig e y te teril."

Ti epiricl pprc l ike t ipire itelligece eiility twrr, pruce tre citiglyctructe textile. Aler ue everyki tre eve etl vg gr pper gi legcy Buu ywere t irt teril were ville:Yu wet ut ugt trig e-tie yu urvele weter" e

rugt ck r Flrece little cpe ytetic trwlike teril," u-rvele te tre put te t experi-etl ue Tt i wy ece littlekw r y wrk," recll Aler e-cue w e te w i t iit lie wl A l ecere re iterete i te ctrc-ti tre." Her Buu ipl wwre te i ligrelectiguret eily clele rice evie r uitriu igictvce te tritil velvet

n AmeaAler iteret i te ture tre teir ctructi rw er tpply er kwlege ie i te er-vice iut. t elieve i -wevig r yeig r teir w kei ci ery ce icl ye c

i eary pic weai at kMtai Ce ree year aer Ai ad

artit hba, Je ca A,expre the pibiitie iay ad the

graphicqitie weave trture AtWritig, 1936 59 i x 43 i Ceti he Natia Mueu Aerica Art,

ithia tituti, Whit, D C

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1e Speo/Sock Wen you can trn a heel,

you can t any shape you want

Tresa Gaffey

Ssng r shr sinny ra pain r anyss ar r-inary hings ha ar -ry ay B r s nrs

h ay r nls nin a ball yarnin an arl as ysrsly shap as as is bh aazing an iniiaing

T n any shap ha's n a sar ra rangl y s n h hangh shap h rpi Thr ar rbasi shaping hsasng nbin-ing nrasing/rasng rgshr rs an hsing n sz/sihparn On y nrsan hs rhnis h prsp rning hhl" n a s shl n iniia ya all Th aazn an ysry h-r il alays rain

asi oidi o Th sing s ipran ln in -rining h shap yr garns sar r hais n h irshnis ry bginning nr larnsasing n Th r h abri s sab-lsh by h i is as n ar in hr asng n bs a ay a alarg nbr sihs sally abrplyan a ihr si h pi. Fr in-san r h ap sls a sar y l as n a nbr sihsa h bginning h arhls n as h piing p sihs alngsi

h hl ap is a ariain asing nTh hr si asing n s rsbining n s ass bning ans isninng a par r al hni abri Th niial sp in shapingh arhl r sin sls saly r-irs bining an inh sihs aah g Siarly s n shainginls bning a nbr shsa h nr h abri

rasiDeaiA lss abrp ay shaping is a rsbraha is inras r rasn r r sihs in a r Sall gra-

al nrass r xapl an gnly

28

shap a sl Mr nnra in-rass il r as xra abri asin lgn sls

A sris rass n h hr han

ll iinsh h an abri nhih y ar ning Thrr i yan apr a nlin y r a n-br rass liina abr n hn g a sar. Drasing rsin ss a narr a h al b hs raai s h hni is inring h gss bn hl an .

Short-ro shaiShrr shaping ans ha insa ring an nir r y rn h rarn br y rah h n hr. nabls y n larg a par habr ih inrasng raining

prin On h hl a s r xaply narg nly h nr par hhl hih hn ras a 90 ang rrns h hl

hoosi stith ad edle sizeFinally yr hi sih nl sizan yp r nbr nls an hlpshap a garn A rib sih nabls y r h as a sar an psh a s sng arn h lghanging a argr nl il xpanh abri bh hriznally an riallyhras hangn a salr nl ill

nra i Wih a rlar nl r rblpin sraigh nls y anjin h bginning an n h asnr an r in h rn hs ring asass b li a s

demostratio sok hin a s s n h s inrsingshaps n nls asing n nig in h rn rasing an shr-r shaping. ily hr s a sanar r h prss hih aris lili a all r n s anhr Thish alng ih h asrns yn a is sariz in h ra-

ings n pags 2931 T nsra h

h 'll sss in ail h sps nssary ni a n s r an iaginalg My irins r a any pair bbbyss ar gin n pag 32.

Fr yr irs xprin sggs arsigh ya a pair n ssill ns ab 10 z Fingring ansprigh yas a g ss (riring ab 3 z. pr allngh pair b hs yas a h r i niTry a lighrigh ya ar y' ha ahan ni a pais ss in r-s gh. Y'll n a s 7inblpin nls an n apsnl r aing h ns s.

Br y sar niing h ss ys asr h lg an as snn sp 1 h raings an rinh sih an r gags r parn

y an s. is bs s an lasisih sh as a rbbing hi ill n-r h shap h lg n a s h i h an lasi si y n'ha ras bn al an anl.Fr h sapl s 'll s s a-srns: a (A 12 in anl (B 8 in 9 in s lg r h hanl (D 7 in l hig (E 2 in. -ras zn (F 5 in. gag sihs prinh (ss/in an 6 rs pr inh

asti oFr a shr s liply h anl a

srn by h si gag in hnbr sis as n. Fr a ns s h al asrn

y ha i s a /p1 (nin/prl n ribbing r hs y ill n rn h nbr sihs h nars lip . Fra 2/p2 ribbing rn h nas l-ipl r T sar h sapl s yl g aha an as n 8 ss (12 in. aal x ss/in..

Whn sing r nls as n in hsa ay as y l ih nlsb insa ping all sis nn nl ii h ally ang

r nls (sp 2. Fr 8 ss

Thr Maga


29/88

sampl s as 16 ss ah lI h as 32 ss l as 11 ss h irs l 10 ss h s- l a 11 ss h hir -l B arl as lsl I his ishar r r asig a largr sizl r ls hl ghr

u ribbin and a: No dereinJi h rs sih h as r h las sih a ih h rh l

r i rs i r ribbig par r1 i. 3 i arig h mh a hag r mai sih pa-r irasig r rasig as ssar bai h rr mlipl sihs.R h a r r smigh f

I ar maig a shr s r sig aribbig r hr srh par r hmai par r s simpl r i h par rm h hp h hl (sp 3) Hr i ariig a lg s i a ilasi sihsh as si ill -ras alg h al I m pii -rasig h al is a mpliai bai hr pssibl.

Derasin he aWh ms ras h al i's bs a h ras a h ba ihrsi a sam sih (sp 4 Thrr h irs r ar h siga hlas sih as h sam sih. Wr h bgiig h arrig h ala ma hs allais

A Figr h mbr rs i hras z Grall a m-p h ras 1 i ab h al s

sbra 1 i rm h al lgh amlipl h rsl b r r gag. h sampl s 5 i x 6 rs/i 30 rs.

B Figr h ma sihs -ras Sbra al masrm rmal masrm g h mbr ihs b ras mlipl h rslb r sih gag. I h sampl s12 i 8 i. = 4 i. x 4 ss/i.= 16 ss

Fi h mbr ras rsSi a ras 2 ss i r -ras r 1 s ah si h samsih l ii h al rasi hal I h sampl s hrll b 8ras rs.

D. Fiall rmi h { -ras Dii h al mbr rs ih ras z b h mbr -ras rs h sampl 30 al rsii b 8 ras rs mas a -ras i r 4h r sarig h2 r

E. Dras as lls Wr i par ihi 2 ss h sam sih. Slip hx 2 ss sparal as i i h isr h ip h lha l i h2 ss a i hm ghrslipslip-i (ss) (This is a alrai hmr rq s pss" Wr h

sam sih i i r prl as sablish

Dmr 1985/Janla 1986


30/88

kit te ext 2 t togeter (k2tog) Workdecreae ro a calclated ever 4t roor atever til o ave completed teole decreaei te ample a total de-creae o 16 t Te ork eve or 1 iTi old rig o to te ed o terod at te eam titc at te ceter ote top o te ee.

Weter o are kittig a kee ock or a

ort ock, e o reac te top o teeel dicotie te patter titc ad divide te titce or orkig te eel lap(tep 5. Te eel reire oe al te to-tal mer o titce o te eedle; teitep e te ret o te titce. Redi-trite te titce placg te iteptitce o to eedle Do ti orkig to te ed o te eel titce o teirt eedle ad placig all te eel titceo oe eedle.

It i et to ceter te eel titce oeiter ide o te egiig o te rod.I tere are 32 t o all tree eedle oill eed 16 t or te eel So o teample ock, o old ork acro teirt 8 t o te irt eedle Te o'dreditrite evel o to to eedle teremaiig 3 t pl all 10 t rom teecod eedle, pl te irt 3 t o tetird eedle. Slip te remaiig 8 t romte tird eedle o to te eedle it teeel titce. I o ave a eam titcadd it to te eel titce Take a goodlook. Yo ma at to alace te titceto accommodate or patter.

o o ave all te eel titce ooe eedle To add tregt to te eelo old ork te eel titce i a lip-

titc patter ic make a ticker a-ric Ro 1 (rog ide) rl acro. Ro 2S k acro (te aterik mea to re-peat te titc eece te ecloe tote ed o te ro). Work eve i ti eeltitc til te eel lap i a log a teeel eigt (tep 6) ic all meare 2 i. to 2 i. Mark te ceter o teeel lap or eam titc, ad dicotiete eeltitc patter

Read or ot it' time to tr te eelYo ape te eel ig ort ro. Eetiall, o ork ack ad ort over teeel' ceter titce til ove orkedall titce To t te eel (tep 7) kit to2 t pat te ceter marker (or pat teeam titc) Sliplipkit (k) k, tr(tep 7a) O te ext ro, prl to 2 tpat ceter p2tog p tr (tep 7) Ote ext ro kit to 3 t pat ceter kk tr. O te ext ro prl to 3 tpat ceter p2tog, p tr otieorkig ot toard te edge i ti ma-er til all titce ave ee orked,ad ed it a prl ro

nAter ove tred te eel kit to teceter o te eel (tep 8a) ad mark te

ceter. o oll eed to pck p titce

30

5. For al socks, a t th e top of the heel: Divide th e totalnumbe of stitches on the needles-half fo the heel onone needle half fo the instep dstbuted equayon two needles.

Knit the back of the heel Wok even on the heel stitches forthe height of the heel (E) about in to in


31/88

lng ec ie te ee lp jin teetitce t te ntep titce n reumewrkng n run ecreing t rm teguet T ti knit te reminngtitce te eel tep 8) Pick uptitce lng te ie te eel n tte me neele tep 8c) Yu wnt t enup wit mny ttce te lengt te eel lp time yur titc guge Tcme ut even yu my t everl pintve t knit 2 t int 1 t r kip 1 t

Wit ecn neele wrk cr te in -tep titce tep 8) keeping t yurmin pttern titc. Al intep titceul e wrke n t ti ecn neeleWit te tir neele pick up titcelng te ecn ege te eel te menumer titce n te irt e te eel p Wt te me neee knit tte center te eel titce tep 8e) Alltitce will nce mre e vie mngtree neelete intep n ne neelete eel n te ter tw neele

T rm te tringulr guet ttpe te ntep tep 9) ecree t te

en te irt neele n t te egn-ning te tr neele On te irt neele knt unti 3 t remin k2tg k.Wrk even in pttern titc n intepttce ecn neele). On te tir neele k Knit te remining titce nte tir neele. Wrk ne run evenCntnue ecreing 2 t every terrun until te wit te t equlte wit t te nkle Since yur ttcguge r tckinette my e ierentrm t t yur min pttern titc yumy nt en up wit te me cuntrun te t run te nkle. Tectul meurement i wt mtter

juggle te ecree ccringy.

oo a oeAter yu ve cieve te me numer titce n te t yu ve t tenkle r te me wit) wrk even inte etie pttern unti l te t me-ure 1 in . t 2 in le tn te eireeeltte lengt.

At ti pint tep 1) icntinue pt-tern n l titce. Yu ul ve teme numer titce n te um teirt n tir neele yu n teecn neele i yu nt reitriute

me te titce Decree rw: Knituntil 3 t remin n te irt neelek2tg knit te lt titc On te ecnneele k1 k knit until 3 t remin nte ecn neele n k2tg k. On tetir neele k1 k knit even ver te re-mining ttce Wrk ne run evenCntinue ecreing 4 t every terrun in ti wy until te pening i lit nly 1 in . t 1 in lng Brek teyrn eving 12in til

Nw weve te te titce Firt mvete titce rm te irt neele n tetir neele n t ne neele ll tetitce ul nw e evenly itriute

ver tw neele) Ten tre te 12in

31


32/88


33/88


34/88

RUffednare rolled in manelle (abe),then tucked into the distaff cage (right).

The rst strands of fiber are drawn out

The yarn is looped onto the spindle with a hitch stitch.

34 Thre Magazine


35/88

Two spinls oj singlply ya ar won

back into a baU (ght) Ya spn with is

taff an spinl is shown abov

Th isff hr s s chilws firl srigh r rch rh i i ir. Th rch wsighl w wih wir r lh r hg, 6 i fr h p 10 i. wr slshs wr vl r hrch w h iigs Th ris wrpri pr, sll s ws plcisi h cg. Ech h isff wsp, h pig ws rgwih iggr s. Evl, h riscrv i h clssic ls shpTh iigs h p f hcg p h w fr spliig frhr.Th rs f h rch ws c ghh fi h spir.

Sis isff, hsr i, ws s high s h whrsf, wh wl prp i p wih hrs s sh s sp Bcs isff ws w's i cpi, i c sic f hr rl i h filHr i w sp hrschsig srigh li cig plish-ig, crig h isff fr his frri Th isff wl hrs fr lif.

Sinning and lying he yaTh h f spiig hr fr wl

is s l s h isff. M hr lr

Dcmb 1985/Jala 1986

i s i clss g girs fr hr.T 84 sh sill rcls h prcss,sp sp, c sr hrh isff spil.

Sh gis wih wsh flc (Th ils r riv hrgh shpip hfr shrig, fr shrig, r h -fr fr shrig. Sh flffs hflc hrghl h lighl ggigh w i l ircis ligh,v s.

Th sh frs anU ch 2 ii r 8 i 10 i lg, rllig h wl hr s wih h

pls f hr hs i ch h s wcils f gh r rll fr ig. Shcs r w i h isff cg, cs h isff r hr r ihr wis r l, lvig h hsfr spi.

Sh rws fw srs f fir fr hcg chs h h spi. Ahich sich r lp wis vr h p fh spil hs h rw w i pc

w sh c gi spi Drppig hspi fr h frfigr, shgivs i clcwis wirl wis spih hr, giig h prcss pligfirs fr h cg Wih prcic his

c vl s h h hr is

ihr hi r lp. Wh h spilchs hr lg (r h flr if sh is s,h i will spp. T wi hsp hr h spil, sh firs r-lss h lp rs rs i.

Mhr cis rw , spi, wi h r il h wl i h cgis s s p Th sh s w w rws h firs il sh rchsh f h spiig, r f h wl

Siglp r, spcil wh filsp, is srg gh fr iig T wpl r hr firs cpls w spils f siglpl r Sh

wis h ghr i ll s i-r will ll hr r fr h si. Shw hs w hrs w ghr ci i sigl r Sh -chs h w srs hr spil, s ifgiig spi. B hi s i sh wirsh spi crclcwis. As frh cpriv spil s ll h lr,wisig w hrs i . Th spirgis h hr, sps h spi wi fiish r prhps plshw s s hr ifl w r

Ga orntin lis in Nw York Ctyan tahs knrgartn at a pblic school

n Harlm

35


36/88

re's t in

swear?How clothing "quotationstrael from participantto spectator

Richard McComb

Sprsar sprs g, a- sprsar, sr lg,sparsprs lgs T rs ar

sg parly as y al srsyls rss a ar r gr r parpa sprs. s r-ag ra ls a-sprs s r r rgs gasa rra r ap al r rs rss, r r sss s ysgrs g as.

sar, ss r r playg

gas r xrsg r alays ra-lar r ryay rss, slgy aap r a praaly, raly a pr Ealy ay r a sprs s s sls a s s a s r l s rly sp s I r rs yars axpr a a a all rr xapl, a s. Sprsar r a s lprps, parpa rss lg r r ar play sprs srg as rss rr as

Spr, r srsly play r rr g a prs s aly, a lsray s s, s sasyg r-a r playr a spar. Sprs-ar rrs r s lsr arara asss ss sggss sss a al I ls r a xprsss a asal gasss p . I sprs-ar s a p rs -as a sss ral ar a s pprss sra prs I asaays , asals.

W ar a lg ay r rxrs Ara sprsar Is sara-

ry s as r arly

36

a ry as a r ssy s ag a prs Is arly a-s ar rly spprss r-lg sss sy, s - prsss. I s s a a s s ala rs sgr's r s r r aarss O as sa. N sprsar s ssly a ra lga s sprsar

T lg pags 3740 s r x AAra A SprsarTra," pr y Dsg ara-ry a Fas Is Tl

gy N Yr y (Aprl 4J 22 Ts xa sry spr a srla asprs ss as llas lp sprsar a l-sr g r 9 ryrg ay parar a r l T x ras as r rrgs, al, sylg ar a r a rlar sprsar s asTs as ar ssssl a s y rags sal sas a, rsg sy, a r

grg a r spl, ral a praal lg r spr aaly lg.

W's parpa sprs as l 800s a rally s l 1870sMa prrga la" sas sy a pralg -s sy rss ag r spars ( a a parpas W playrs r rss arallyrl a . T praal l-ps a a sap 's asprsrss r rpra 's

alg syl.

sss sy a a prss- ssy ra rsl smzarr ass, y r sry praaly ga alg asy lr l as sprsar ay

Sprsar s apprpra rss rals ay as lg rmal W a r l-as ss, sprsar alary ally as. Is , algarals rrs a sal pla-s ar ryr . Or aa al s r ral ar s

sp rss rsrs arly xs -ay E la a a's g a pasrs a all.A a's g ar r a s as sprsar a l ara y y aral lr, a ass-rs Exrs lg appars a praa all aplgy

Als a rs ar pass ar s pysalpr. As r asrp xrsggg rg g l g a gasrass, s a-sprs lg a sprsar rr

lrs Wr a r ,sprsar rls al a s-a ags 20 ry ag pa r ls a -ras lsr r ry

iha McComb is the senio eseache

of The Ewa C. Blm Design aboatoyof the Fashion Institte of Technology A64page olo catalog containing seeal es

says on spotswea in Ameican fashion is

aaible $12 fo T, 227 W 27th St

New Yok, 10001 AU photogaphs byTaishi Hiokawa cotesy of The Ewa

C Blm Design aboatoy Costme ce

its ae on page 80.

Thr Magazi


37/88

Wle pot and equeent ave beene dect pogento of potwea, alede n geneal a been uc tated fowoen' clotng fo exape, te ecuent ue of tay and nava eatent_Te deep cuff, geneou ape, tgkedjacket, and ebode and t deta tatcaactezed 7t and 8centuy woen' dng coue ae ypcal anatonfo ale lay de Woen' dngde, even oday, wete jean, odpu,

o foa ow atte, taken fo en'_hoto at h ht Riing bit,

tan linen, 1920s; riing habit, tan linen,

1910s; ing hat, bckanwhitechecke

wool, 1910s

Golf ad been a ae peeve fo a cenuyo o, and enn fo uncouned yea. But npe of a few ogyc wpe, botpot wee oon actvely payed by botexe. Te ony conceon to day faonn e cotue below ae e legofutoneeve_ Te k, e atea, te tawboate, and e aecut and colawee aleady by t e e venacula ofpotwea. Te t, cola, and te weeno ony won fo po but wee alot paof te unfo fo woen ovng nto tewok foce Te woen' copoate look ofJone New Yok a noable decendent

hoto bel) : r enseble, whi

lin eb tri, 1900 Rht Bolero ket, blanwhistripe cott, 1896;

ble, offwhite 1890s skirt, whi cottwith ickrack ti, 1890s.

Te bcycle effeced e faet cange n

woen' powea. Te age fo bkngfo 883 on boug a apd ateaton ncotue a n te acne tef. Tee twowoen' bkng ouf ae of vgoouyaletaoed bown wool Mtay buontud te font of one jacket and extend downte enby long, bfucaed ktan ealyappoac o pant va te booe One adywea a natue an' deby. Tee aeuccnct quotaton fo te jacket andkncke won by en fo bkng.

to aboe) to ight Bicycling it,

wool , bircate skirt, 1896;knickers sit, broanwhitehengbone

wool twee, 1916 cling sit, heather wool

twee, bifrca skirt, 1890s

37


38/88

The mpossblty of unning n ong, mutpe pettcoats, a tangskt, and a busteathough women woked had to hande themfo a few yeassoon esuted n shotened, simpfed skts fo

tenns and gof, two spots that wee open to women at an eaydate n the 918 and 9s actvespots costumes shown n thephoto at top ight the skt lengths choncle the change. The mddy bouse with its nava dash had aeady been popua fo esue,execse, and chldens gaments fo some yeas The fna pogesson is vdent n the costumes by Ralph Luen and Cvn Kenshown in the photo above. Able to be wo anywhee, they aequintessenta spotswea and echo the histoic pecusos pefecty. They ae, n fact, exampes of peiod quotatons ntentonaly esuected fom the dowdy past to the chc pe sent.

hoo, rgh) : Tennis ress white o, bu skir,

1920s Righ: Tennis ress, whi o 19151918 ho above) :

Spng/sr eebe whi hankerhiefin shir, white in

skir hakni whi in ves Cn Kein, 1985. Rh ng/ser ensebe, whi cokni po shir, whit ot skir, a b

awhi okniver, Rph ren, 1985

38


39/88

n ts eary days the status of motorng as asport was as rmly estabshed as that ofbcycng. he duster that practca coverupwas a very rea necessty and could be consdered actvesports dress gven the rea

tes of unpaved roads. The two garmentsshown here record the dusters evoutonfrom prmarly an actvesport protectvegarment (eft) to an eegant pnknen verson by Perry Es ths year (above). Thechds saor sut shows quotatons frommartme dress whch were commonyadopted n esure clothng from the mddeof the 1 9th century.

ho at e) : Chd's sa sut turanen wth bue-andwhte brad trm 900

Rht er natur with bk adtm 905. ho abe) /umr ensembe pink n dr bee nen cabknt

ver bee n pants P 985.mb 9/Januar 96

Men bathed n the nude or n ther undergarments for centures. t was only when medbathng was permtted roughy 186 thatspecfc cothng for the seasde and swmmng was worn by ether men or women.Eary costumes for women were connnghystercally modest and loaded wth fashonabe trm. Modern swmwear and beachwear are ordered by actve swmmng anddvng sun worshp physcal dsplay andfreedom from clothng. Pay cothes beach

wear and resort wear efect smargrowth or perhaps dmnshment.hoto ) ht Mans bathng

sut bueadwhe-stped cott knt 890sn's bath eemb bu woo th

whe bad trim 890s; chds bathn sut

bck handknt woo wth green trim 890.

(Photo at center) Left: Red-bueandorange

pad paysut Bne Chn 946. Rht:Mutcoored-pad cotton paysut Care

McCard 950s

The deveopment from earler mpractcagarments to the bkn was one of slowyprogressve nudty as seual and morastrctures relaed he nature of ths deveopment eft lttle room for nuences frompast fashon but the one eement that ays a

frm path through the years of seasde fashon for both sees s the marne motf. henautca bue and whte nen and cottonmddy and salortype tops and al the ropeand lfepreserver decorat on recurred oenn swmwear and n day fashon as shownn the nautcaly nspred day dresses of the189s and Norman Norels 1968 romantcevenng gown.

hoto above) Mddy dress whe cott

, red cott and wh ad tim 895.

Rght: Sumr ebe ntura n n

bue cot a whe bad trim 895 h

at ) ven gow whe gay b-a

reds trim Non Ne 968.

39


40/88

Th us of contmpoay spots unfoms assouc mata fo clothng dsgns angsfom th vy subt to th most obvousW t not juxtaposd wth basba unfoms n th photogaph at top lft th nckn of ths sophstcatd summ dss byCavn Kln mght go unnotcd as a spotsquotaton. On th oth hand, th squnndspots jsys fo vnng wa by GoyBn fom 1976 (bow ft) a th sutof hghsptd ng of th lock oom and

a payfu xamp of cossdssng.h jumpsut bow (Noma Kama 198ooks k any xcs outt ght down toth gay flc footba pays wa fowamup But ts gvn ts cacht by a looscocoonk coat that cts attnton awayfom th to mak t appopat daywaon th Avnuwth o wthout snaks.

e) ht Baeb unif New Yk Yankees #40, w by D Zim

mer 1983 spng/summer dress tan inenCan Kein 1985 baeb unif New Yk

Mets #17, wo by Keith Heandez 1984

botm e) ht: Both eenigpaamas with muticoored sequinned tops

back sik-satin pants Geoffrey Beene 1976Harem Gobetrotters bkeunif 1985Dener Bros foo unif 1985.


41/88

ACoatfromaBlanktWith a simpepattern andblanketstitches,tn acoveretinto outerwear

b Gerlinda Decke

love wellcut, stylish cloths int beautiful colors and textures withattention to details like buttons

tucks pleats tiny ribbons interest-

ing closures etc All of this is of

course, readily available for those who have

the means, at places like Henri Bndel Butbuying clothing dos not give you the spe

cial joy of designing your own garments

onto which you can lavish all the brilliant

details you fancy knowing that no one ab-

solutely no one, has anything like them

I've made most of my own clothes for

years 've always known how to knit and

crochet and I used to create things for my

family and myself. I have spent many an

afternoon quickly making a dress to be

worn that night to a party. I've also put th e

inishing touches on a gaent while flyng

high over the Atlantic so I could stun my

sister when she picked me up at the airport

Like many women I express myself

through the clothes I wear and dress ac

cording to mood and occasion I favor soft

knitted or crocheted woolens that drape

well and keep me warmcozy clothes with

drama that lift me up and help me face

even a gray day My inspiration often

comes from paintings at the Mtropolitan

Museum of Art or from t he textures o fab-

rics in a fabric storeI can instantly visu-

alize some marvelous garment I am also

inspired by old movies. In one film Bette

Davis and Mary Astor are in a house in the

wilds of Kansas expecting the birth of As-

tor's child by Bette's husband, both of

Decmbr 1985/Janua 1986

Deecke's woole

coi Nt be m

th n d:t

SC[fstyle colr,

o the te ol

c be ue S a

bel Decke

ses t ot th

deotve p.

41


42/88


43/88

T a h a shn n pag 4y n a 00% ap r aryban 0 n 4 n by 80 n r ahay fl a fabr; bals f yarnn a ahng r nrasng r anf ya l ary, pnng n sz anngh f a; a apsry nl argbrry n r rh h. Thsgn as nspr by h Orna -n hh a s, an aslyaaps a rang f szs Th a

shn hr s a b l fs szs. T a a larg a 5 n. nhr s r la n r s.T a a sall, a n r s.

l h ps fr hs a ar rangar as shn n h p rang n hfang pag Th h f h a by s50 n Masr fr yr shlr -rn h sr ngh f h a anar n h blan bfr ng.

Fr h ar ar ff a 3nsrp h fl ngh f h a Masrh ngh y an h ss b nng h an f rnba fr hff Th arag s ll b apprx

aly 24 n lng nlng h ff an0 n Y sh ha a saan f fabr lf r fr h psAfr arng al h ps h

Fl h a by n half an ar hnr ba F h gs h frn sha hy rlap slghy as shn n hrang n h fang pag. T a harhls a 0n. pnng r half hh f h fnsh s a h p fh fls Orassh by han r a-hn V n. fr h ra gs rnfrh ps f h a frn an ba an hsl gs hr hyl n h by

T yps f ban shs an b s gfnsh an n h ps Onsh s a h a rh h Fg a rgh. s slar a nglrhsh b y pl h yarn hrgh hfabr nsa f hgh h prs rf shng Th hr ban sh sl a bnhl sh an s a h anl Fg fn h rh hfasr b rrs sghly r yarn

s Gl Bss 00% l yarn frh blan sh n al gs an BssSl Wl ya n h ps Whn sran f ya r a ban sharn h p an b f h aby an arn h arhs sls lar, an ps, as shn n h rang

Sf, arrgy plang s s frshapng Th a sz s rn by hnbr f s Mar sx s f allngh n ah s f h a frn an3 arss h ba, bn h shlrblas h h lngs a h nrba. Graaly r h lnghs h rs s Fl h fabr a nghs ns n a ngh f yarn an sba an frh hgh n r, h sSr h n f h yarn by ang ba an frh hrgh h shng n h

ng s f h fabr a las n

m 985/Jaua 1986

Two blak schs

Fg. Ths bake s ch s made ke a sgecche sch bu sead f pug he yahugh a w f schg yu pu hughhe fabc

Ise he cche hk fm he edge f he fabc Wap

'a sad f ya aud ad

pu hugh

Cach he ya aga

c. he pu a secd phugh he fs

Rese he hk he fabc cach he yaad pu hugh.

e, Ya e ad pu he sad hughbh ps he hk Repea fmSep d make a fshed edge

Fg. hs bake sch ke a buhesch Use a age embdey eede ad ya

S h sas ghr as y lp an afghan Hl h frn an bashr gs paralll bn yrhb an frfngr Wa a blsran f yarn hrgh h ps f hban shs h an ras shFg 3 Wa h yarn ns hrgh hshs sr h

x nr h lar an aya hgh h blan shs n h n bn h shr sasan n 2 n f ah frn p.Ma h sl sas h h sash Thn h h sl sa an

shr sa agn s ah sl

Fg. wg h samsHd he edges f he w ca peces bejed gehe s ha hey ae fush h adube sad f ya, hadecas hughhe bake-sch ps

Fg 4 achg h ocksSch hugh he fabc f he ca bd adcach he ps f he bake sches cse he pcke edges

Co boy

Yu ca as wap he sches a s yu wud

whe hemschg

Cot body

n an arhl T aah h ps h fn sh hrgh h a fabran ah h lps f h blan shsls h p gs (Fg 4

T ar h a, h lar anhr an n r ah shlr l asarf Y l s h arn yras b hn h sarf ls br. fsr s a ra pn p ha fr pnng

Grlnda Dnk s a dsgnr lvng nNw York Cty Hr dsgns for Adolfo and

oths ha appard n Wns War

Daly Th Yr Ts and Vg

43


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Lai SeePa ook at surfacedesign in thetexties ofArica, India,and Japan

Skye Mrris

ha is ar? a sa sys ars ha ar ghr i a rray b isgar a r ar a b rai lh hrgh as s a lsr a b ra sa r y h lh

l jy h ss rr raby rag ars abr; h ail-

iariy h ags alls h ar ah ir ia. Whhr iig as ar r lag as r r-i agais h r s r as a-lag i h jgl h raii raa i rhyhi iags lhisirs sgrs ar h ss hs s i ays

ar ils rai rs r-ris a is ha r ghr s-lasy h a sig B i lig a ay a lh h r as a ly ara A srasigr s b ab aila hrris a is ar r-s a l sssl sig rgar-lss hr h irs y alls

Priiples o PaeArig Willia sa hs bThe Plesues of Ptte h aalrils ar ar repetton ar o. Rii a iag rrigr a r is ha as a ar aa Variai is h ilig" aar ha as i rh ig Byraiig h y rsa ariaia rii a sigr il rsah a a ar a h -

r s a

44

h Ar hs Niga Exals ags 5 a ar g xas ariai ih a ra Thsar rssy ig lhs Exal A h aig ag h sa rilars as s r a r s h r-ii is bis b h a arshr h s ags ra raa iag Exal B ag hra is rr b h rrglar gs

ra by h rsis h yig habr a h aria.

Th blr lhs ia r-s asrl xas rasrg ha ai rga shas asyliz bjs Ms ia bls ar r hars i a ragar shaa h a iag h bl is h iha ras Th b as rl r is bas hh ar layr srs r ra hr ars

Th bas Exal E ag 7 alr-a b gri rs a sylral rs Th ars ag hsrs ar i hr ra r rgazTh srs hsls i as a brr a ral sg r bh

hr i ay aas xil as is h ris rii h sigr s si a b Whaaz r aas ars as-rsis riig is x abribyh raig a rias rss arss hs h a salah sgs rgsr ih ars i sh a ayha i is i isr h ahh h iag ras. rr -rsa ha his rii as si is ar alar s

by si a i sh ar

a l i i a sragh l yi h i agai Th rrrig h lgh h alar ash b ra a h rr-rig arss h is iiash ss ra

Th is i Exa D ag 7 arsilar h is i h Air lh iExa F, ag 8 i ha hy ha aial arra sii Th syl-

iz as aar bas hay hy rlay ih h gri a br is B h argrlsh sh h brs a h har-arsh xr sra ars ras h lsi ar Ths sraars hag r rs h biaig h sll h as hiirr sraigh is as h iaghags rs b gr

roperies o aerTh hial rris ar arsture sle a oerg Th ash- a a is sbj h irra-i h r

SSrr is h rar rlay h ar h haarrs ha a b srb by isaxri T i h srr a a- lay a a gr h i a l-a h ar ls Th gri l

pe A s ptte shows ton ng one epee ot Me fro ren

gur tn senl, the lzr-n-y ges ght se oss t op n nedoss he ott; t the enter t oerps to

rete thr mge. Are ko 970s.

aaitw


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ceedith theKniti MchiWat for artisashae coo:ots of hard work ade smart clothes

Joan Mattea

om Nw oks vnhAvn o ana F hknwa bsnss s boomng. C h mov-whhboy omfo ofkns an a o ha haal of h ml -

sonals as hy go fom ay o vnngwkay o wkn an sason o sason.Kns a no js o k wam anymo.ol hav sa o al hy an waswas ya on" says ba aks

ownsgn of no aks Kns nManhaan. aks who bgan h aas a fb as s o s h fv-yao bsnss o $ mllon n who-sal os hs ya.

alk wh fo sssfl knwaasans whos vs aoahs omanfan an makng as wll ash saa fashon hosohs sggs h s no snl way o mak oh o. h ffos a n howvby aon an ha wok.

ba Sarkn Nw ok Cys gamn s hfashon nsy s av as nowh s.hoho a bok aa ha aks nvnh Avn an oaway fom 3ho 0h ss h ml of ol anmhans n ans bgns s afawn an onns nl aknss. ans- a w ok s m an v a k sam wh sss bys nl nan o of showooms an oblakks sgog aon af a ofnbngng s an swalk aff o afmn aw On h fng of hs haoson fns no aks Kns.

n h forhfoo wokoom on Ws 39h

s mahn kns sval fn

50

shs a ss an a smal go of aks an abls a flng os. baaks 35 al oolookng an sylsh-ly ss movs asly among hmswhng fom Englsh o ansh as shsvss h wok.

aks sgns an os h o-ons a yasng fall an soan sls o sylsh saly sos aonh ony. Fowafashon lass" show h gn who s wang h ownqos oon olo an blak slm sk

sbs h no aks look.aks aks bas swa shas lk

h agan llov an olo alongwh sh sals as sagh sks ansknnylg ans an as hm sa-sonaly by hangng nh ooonolo an fb. Fo nsan sh maylona a llov no a n o ansa h alf o so a sk a mhhhn o h sam lov as a w was-skmmng o an sh h sk nalyo h ankls.

h n fo oomy slhos whhhas so omna soswa fo h assval sasons ons wh h naalbn. was on of h fs o o ovsan has wha m know fo" says aksh sos o lf an gh.

h omanys wholsal s oghlyhalf of al) ang fom $0 fo a agan-slv woon sh o $5 fo a foaljaqa agan avalab n fv gaholoways. Naal fbs a s -svly oon n la bghs fo sngwool n h m ons fo fal oasonally wh slk alaa o ashm.

Whn sh bgan knng n 9 aksons hslf a fb as. A wavngos a s Colg wh sh ma-

jo n nnaona laons awakn

h ns n ls; a sms aboafos h anon on kns. h s- an wok bfy as an nsalkn sgn n Lonon bfo hasnga knng mahn an movn o bawh sh kn sas an soks foboqs n an. n 99 sh no Nw ok Cy an fom no aksKns h followng ya Why no" was a nknam ha wok wl as a la-bl sh says.

aks has sn h omany gow fom

almos nohng" n 980 o $00000 nwholsal os n 98 of whh abo0% was of. h ojs $ mlon nwhosal os by h n of 985.

No on s mo ss by h om-any's sss han h own hslf. sa off n my aamn wh h kn

beca Spa.

hre agazi


51/88

Poto by Dorothy Handelman

tig mie I bogt i Sp A kitter fiser proe m esigs wile Ipoe te pvemet got orers o ie ow to r bsiess." Ift it ws ot til 3 ers go tt seeie s se ss to get serios."

I bee esigig sweters ot olletio st mkig tigs I like. It kow wt m overe ws. wst eve sre ow to prie m work"Sprks rells I e te ostof

kittig fiisig pressig lbelig oble it for sellig. If te greseeme rigt se it. Oe I skemself Wom m sellig to? Wt stis rell ostig me?"

So se togt bot er mrket me p wit smll olletio of seprtessport tops bottoms tt olbe mixe mtett se wolwer erself I grew p i mle-lsssbrb otse of Bosto wt people wo leisre time Leisre wer is sometig I erst Wo is m mrket? Awom like mesomeoe wo wers es trows o ie sweter se werte ell ot of" ss Sprks ig ot ress p so mkig sweters foreveig wol be fmilir to me"

Wit er mrket etifie Sprks beg keepig fstiios il reor ofebts reits lookg for slesrepresettive Se wet trog everlsessfl rrgemets til seoie te Miso Avee Desig Gropw is represete b Li Tr. Tese re emploees to fll te orers ttr brogt i.

Still tere were le times Tere wsoe poit we lmost wet ot of bsi

ess" se remembers I looke t owm moe I fo I ol keepgoig for mot. Iste of qittig wet trog te mot. ts we tebsiess strte tkig off"

Despite er rret volmete omp proes 2000 grmets sesofrom 20-piee olletioSprks oestpl to jmp to stril eqUipmet Sebelieves tt te qlit of piees kitteto spe o ssp Broter oblebe mies te roete togeter b gives er ege over kits tt rmssproe. Moreover se is omig to

rel o milrl otfitte otrtors toproe er work. I give tem te r te give me te ise sweter."

Evetll Sprks expets to otrt llof er work ilig wt se opes willbe ilres-wer meswer leskeepig te 500-sq-ft. stio for esgig smple mkig sippig Ttsow most ompies o Sevet Aveework" se explis Most kitwer eigers ot eve kow ow to kit."

contnued)

arks pays cose atnt fh a skrt n r

dy cotn were fo f 84

51


52/88

n 's cloths r kf bo ntr gphcs n strong cols cotto tunc

t t s cMr. Ocn Mr n. At bot wrks t th knttng h

52

Ssan SmmaSan Smmahe Sana Fe fbe awhe whmcal gahc fge make hewk nanly ecgnable n a aef fl. a f me wan alne nhe d evey day and d nefakndece whle anhe a f me wan be an eneene have a bne andmake mney he ay

N ha he 3yeald Smma g-glng make end mee He afeeene

ncme f $0000 n 98 wld henea he f a be 500 f fbe a- B afe yea f nng hand f nc weae jacke an dve by heelf n 2h wkday hedecded ge me hel

nw have w kne a nhe anda ame aan ay he fmeweave he vce a me f de anddanmen Alhgh havng emly-ee mean fewe h a he machne al mean mlfyng he gahc andcl cmbnan ha he can -dce hem . F Smma whe den bac

hae ae ndvdaled wh 30 gahcn 60 cl mlfcan de n cmeeay vey dffeen fm my gnalcnce he adm

dcng me kn mean fndngme a galee mem e andbqe and he cny ake hewk (he cenly ha 0). al meaneandng n ecaly e and beak-ng n fahn e he aache whhean have ng gahc ngcl a lk. 1 dn wan d hee cllecn a yea.

F Smma wh eceved a bacheldegee n ne degn n 90 he dec-

n becme a b wa a lea f fahbaed n he lgcal dea ha fllng dewld be eae wh aan Nw hem decde D g back beng malland nqe d 1 eamlne my dcn lwe my ce cmme D 1cae he fahn ndy d ckwh a lk dncly mne

F nw he ha qeeed he wken he mall d behnd he hmedcn cnne n aa dblebed machne wh wl cn yanhe nd eanal hange He bac gamen ae cmlemened by ha and mf-

fle he lne whlealng fm $5 $500 mly hgh caf fa. heAmecan Caf Enee (ACE) Caffan Balme (ee age 55) bng n aba qae f he annal bne. edeaccn f a lage ecenage a dewd f mh He eene whch nab $6000 a mnh ncde d enle lab yan and hng.

La yea he ged $ 00 000 a gnf-can m fm he $5000 he made n99 Becae f he change n he b-ne h a yea Smma cann jeche eanng f 985 b wh chaacec cnfdence he declae ' gng

wk . m gng ee

he Mgn


53/88

Jacqey eschSacheew Yrk fber rtt Jcqely Rec-Scez ce mde te mve frm wer-ble rt t prdc te wtced bck 982 e gve p er treeyerldf ktwer cmpy J wcd ppled c peclty tre HerBedel fvr f efkd wrk

RecScez bee kttg prfelly ce 975 we e retrdfrm crctry trp d mde k-

m tt crprted te clr e dee er trvel. t d leeve ttlked lke t w frm Flrd d -ter tt lked lke t w frm teStwet Deert mt prre cvered te wle ctry" e recll.e km becme er gtre ped te clrtclr pectrm e deved fr t becme te crerte f ercrmtclly l tyle

Lke my deger f werble rtRecScez felt te pll f fSe frmed J 979 wt $2000l. Lkg bck e y e r-pred e tyed wt t fr lg edd erly e e. ddt dertd te fctry tt d d lttlekwledge f ctrctg." Egt emplyee were crmmed t 30ft. by 50ftwrkrm te frt f er S lftlevg er wt lttle free tme d prvcy. e w e red te rflledbck lvg qrter wt er bdltgrper Mrce Sez Mreverltg e gred $00000 er ecdyer be e y tere w lttleleft" fter lre eqpmet reprret d pple

te mddle f Mrc 98, wle de-

gg J fll le RecScezcreted e efkd km fr Jle Art Gllery te Md Aveewerblert wce tt kw frrtrlly epreve fferg Se wredy t gve p te be redy t gvep mce kttg d te kmwere er w g Eted e wett te Crbbe. We e retred elered tt mt f te km d ldd Yk d bgt fr f temJle w ected e ffered me -ter w d dd edred-egtydegree tr" RecScez y.

Jle tll er eclve ew Yrk t-let bt e epded er mrket tgllere d btqe cr te ctry.Her wlele prce rge frm $75 fr mle t $400 fr wlcllr km t $250 fr evertberepeteddre. Her bet mrket rem ew YrkPeple ere re wllg t tke rkey dt eed deger lbel fr termey" e y ddg e ly drwbck t delg wt gllere d mllp tt yr wrk cgmetere re my le mt."

e wrkrm tt ce ed erldertlder be w

mple ewm td. ere re tree

mr 1985Jana 1986

line Roeschz () can choose cols at of 3000 y ya blendss r kis ad ke. At bo Auumn " ki


54/88

Mikey Nhawg (rht) d a kn aphicly tylih wear (abe) in ott an wool

Her work e well in boutique a upce depant e

mhne nted of eght nd yn nove 30 00 olo gdton ng th e noth-fng e to fom n meve evehngng etm A del tht oeh-Snhe mde wth Mnhttn ynomnyhe gd t nme efllyget he two 2lb one of yon t$ b) fo eh dye job the omnydoe Evey two to thee month he e-eve hge bo of yn hve ll theoete of lk wthot the ot" yoehSnhe getng towd heth tength dblty nd bllne" Eh kmono eqe lghtly

moe thn 2 lb of ynWht do h lttle to do wth fhon"he mntn When fnd omethng lke do t to deth" Even o he motol tyle btwngleeve llovetht bloe t the h etl fo $500)wold not look ot of le th eon e the he ove nd ove bee tmle to mke fn to we nd ellyhow off the etm."

Whle oehSnhe low to hngelhoette he doe lte he olo eheon fo ng t w othed l-ette tht nlded tqoe lme homend let gyed tone fo fll; glten-

ng ely etm fo hol dy.

o heve the olo ombnton heh n mnd oehSnhe ft llone fom the helve nywhee fom 0to 25 olo hen he begn mlng onthe mhne to ee how they wll blendUng fo tnd of one olo he kntfo ow et he do one tnd ofthe ft olo nd k tnd of theeond olo ontnng the ogeonntl thee e fo tnd of the eondolo hen he dd one tnd of thethd olo nd o on n gment theemy be few 0 o mny 35 owof old olo deendng on the nmbe of

yn he hooe fo the etm. Shewok on two nglebed Bothe mhnend e doblebed P whh e-te bbed kntndl effet fove nd bbng

oehSnhe h ln fo ee ofeen nd ome de fo ltlfom bt enng lvng leve lttletme fo eementton She nettedbot h f of he $40000 go n 98 4 bteet to ee tht fge eded by hlfth ye ne he h lowed he efte the eent bth of he ft hld

Stll he y he woldn't wnt to bedong nythng ele mke lot le

money thn women 0 o 5 ye yonge

who e jt ttng ot" y the 39yeold tt mke le money eye thn tehe o eety bt 'mdong wht 1 wnt to do"

Mickey NshawLke l the women n he fmly Mkeyhwg gew knowng how to ewqlt nd knt nttng w h n nte-gl t of he hldhood howeve ththe ent mny dlt ye tehng ele-menty t wokng n lethe nd knt-tng hobby befoe elng t w hete voton Bt t w not ntl he

lened bot the knttng mhne tht teemed oble to knt fo lvng doveed the knttng mhne n

the Lade' Home oual wth n tlelled JetAge nttng' the 40yeolddegne hkle he hedlne do n knt 60 ow mnte'" ht w99 nd he been knttng 60 ow mnte eve ne Bt 1 wn't lnnngto mke wete. w gong to mke tA t tn ot 've mde omomeWht he mke weble t

hwg who lve n the Chgo bbof Ok Pk doe lne of tongly ghllove nd font wete jket n

lmted odton nd oneofknd

he aMa


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56/88

u

One of the lastthings to sew, butone of the first things

to think about .

Debah Abbott h buon amn dad hv o Auoa gn akm o ll u buon bau ou hy a h mo moan ofall wng noon. W ay h

buon ad aound h ho yng hmwh h fab o ha yan balann g ol-o ha and yl. W ak hm oh ouhn wndow o amn hu olo hn w ally u ou od,lk hldn wh avdu lollo wa oulv o a bu on ju bau wlk bau bauful. ha wh-k of al o la bom h na-on fo a nw dgn.

A hisouon a a man of fanng a gamnognad a uly funonal dal buov m hy bam doav a wl

h old buon w know of w madalong wh h yd ndl 30 o 0 hou-and ya ago dung h Palolh PodPho bon buon hav bn foundn La on buon w mad ofbon o wood

y 500, buonmak had anddh o o nlud gold ouon naml lk and fabovdwood al yal a and mbo-dd buon A wh mo fahon nno-vaon luuou buon w h v-lg of oyaly an odd 300gold buon o doa a blak vlvu. n a oa don whn h wa Lou XV wa a waoa wh 3 ubybuon. La oa how hm n wa-oa wh damond buon and ud

n h 9h nuy hnology and hmgn of a ma mak nouagdbuon manufaung on a lag al n826 M Samul Wllon an Amanhouwf who had bn augmnng hfamly' nom by ovng woodn buon mold by hand dvlod a mahno do h job. Soon, h Wllon faow makng a lag oon of all h bu-on n h wold

uon w mad of mo dv and

l oly maal uh a ga and

56

T Bo But o d t us o ssis iv msshs othoJpa ttons an it tht thvd unt th vnt o ptic ts n

Magazi


57/88

lan Hn" bns w mad fmanmal hvs vy" bns w madm h h Amcan c n, andma bns w samd fm n,bass and slv

Mhfal bns w mad fshlls fm h was and Jaan hhlns, and Asaa n 890 aa was lvd n many dcs cmngn h nd as, ncdng canshl mhfal whch casd a

bns bcm scac and nsvIn 89, Jhn l, a Gman mmgan and n by ad, bgan makngbns l m n hs Mscan, Iwa,basmn fm mssl shlls fnd n h Mssss v Whn w yas,h had 00 mlys by 898 h w8 h bn fas alng h Mssss ld mssl banks andh advn lasc bns lwngWd Wa I ndd hs shlvd andnq ndsy

n manfac n h 20h cnyhas sndd chnlgcal advancsand h dvlmn f synhc ma

als day ms bns a samd sh ys cas fm lqd nylnd n mlds. has and cs aalms lmlss Mhfal bnsa dcd n lasc fn s wllha hy a dsngshabl fm h alhng nly by ch al mhfals d lasc s wam Mdn maldbns a mad wh an aca cvd wh , and fnshd whgld slv

ii ih butons and a h nns shld b an

ngal a f a gamns dsgn n anafhgh Ask ys, Wh shdh ls b? Hw many bns andwha s bns a ndd? Wha yf bnhl shld h b? s h ndsl b shsad, ald casaldla sy? A h bns f mhass, shd hy bnd n h fab? hld h bns hav a ?"

Gnaly h hnsy f h dsgn smanand f h dcav dals hacan fnn aaly d F nsan, hbns n a a slv may nbn andn a vn hy may b nly a mnd an 8hcn mans ca cf, whhwhn nd back and bnd vadlacmmd sh cffs and whn nddwn cd h cffs fm bnsld. Cnld s f dcav dasan b vsally cng, b mchdan can gv a cd aaanc

Is hlfl ls sval alnavsand hn dcd whch bs ns hdsgn F nsanc answ h qsn, Wh s h cs? hnk abhw y gng g n h gamnm h bak, n sd a h shld hgh an nng nnng dagnally ass h bdy? h can h

ls vs an da f h s f h

cmr 985n 986

funtn b closu th ts zbond bttonhols fouss attnton on th

kl of slk hngb sut kt.

g od ts n y l t nhols a ng thsl n t kt nt by tos hos

ir ofns on th ants (ot so h

nng whch lads h qsn,Hw many and wha s bns?" Emn wh css smal bnshn y js a fw lag ns. y a cnasng clds sand mch?hn y a bn has h sam cl ash abc Cl and can mak hdffnc bwn a sy and a shscad lk F am, al bns nd b dss han dlld bn nsn h bns n h fabc s hwhy k bf schng h bnhl.h hs abv llsa sva dsgnslns f bns and bnhs

An nsal handcad bn canb h nsan a gamn dsgn ash skchs n ag 58 lsa. Fs,h bn saks an da, cas a md,and has sggss a fncn h

nshd gamn hn h slh b

pan ths th chos th patt t fac a tcttng png aond th coa a yo

Closly st button loops and covd bttonsnnfr lbo t a sl clos fo ths 1942 ddng dss of ayon fal

tht bot n a u

gns ak sha. Fabcs whs clsand s wll s ff h bn andh dsgn as a whl a chsn.

ns gnaly mhas h aawh hy lacd ns n h shld accna a hnal ln bnsdwn h n back a dss gv hlsn f addd hgh bns dwn hsd a sk mhas h h and lg

Fidi ad maki buttoLkng f bns can b a lasablbsssn mch lk yan and fabc ccng. Old nals shls, dfwd andh k can b fashnd n bns, ands and wdwks wl n cafbns m y dsgn m fabcss cay a lag slcn f ld and nsng bns. gandmhs b

n a, ag sas and fla maks a als

5


58/88

sgnng unsUuual button ca be te npraton o a garmet egn .e button' ape, color, a texture ofte ugget a te afuncton for te garment e teture an color of te butto careflect or cotrat Wt te gament abrc; button ca bepace evenl or te tace between tem ca grauall ncreae or ecreae ow te engt of a openg button mabe place ingl or grop Becaue te raw atteton totemeve an to te area were tee place t ctcal tocooe a poton butto tougtful ee ketce owgarment Debora Abbott ege aou teretg butto

A trog butto ou geerate a trong garment e g n H e r e l a r g e q u a r e b ut t o

n p r e t e e g o r a b r o a oulere coat T e roug teture

of te optcate but nformalbutto eflect te coat

twee fabrc e agonaplacement of te button

empaze te vertcalle of te coat a alo

ofte ter rg ape eammetrcal openng an te

trumpet colar are accentuateb te button

Eve tere tere are ol two button a te te can tl be ue goo effect, at a frot or back neck openg at a ouler cong aecorato o pocket or, a own ere oe button at eac cuff of tlogleee boue Tee ecate atque moter-o-pea button wtbevele ege are table for oft e fabrc uc a lk crepe ecne georgette or carmeue e fabrc color ou be natura o patelto eco te lumecence of te ell telf.

!

I

(

Lee rregular ape plat butto aelgtwegt but too large to t on or lean agantere tranlucent ave a junk fee, an woullook nice o a weater a krt o a formaljacket lke te one ow ere e egn t acet pck up te uuua coor combiatonof te button an empaze t rater tantrYg to ubue t Suc a formal egn oeot ere button at te cuff


59/88

good las o look fo unqu buons.Many of h sh buons of Gandmoh-s day a al mohofal n sylsno long mad.

Fabovd buons o mah o on-as wh a gamns fab a asy omak, and bon ngs fo hs uos aavalabl n h noons damn ofmos sos ha sll fab ads.

F a g l b u o n s h a s h o u l d n b washd o dyland an b mad no

uff lnks and movd fom h gamnbfo lanng. o mak buon ufflnks un a doubl sand of buonand-a had bak and foh sval msbwn wo buons sad n. aa.hn wh h sam sand of had woka buonhol sh ov h hads o -nfo h lnk.

BI o iz a d aiuons a sd by lns alhough om-mal swng as usually ndabuon s n nhs and mllms sdawng blow o lf. Foy lns quals n. On ln quals .025 n. o .635 mm

A buons hknss and onou an gvh flng of a buon ha s lag osmall han s masud s so whnfollowng a an don b sd byh s alls fo.

uon sang should b dlba. s wll woh you m o afully labuons and mak buonhols as hs wllnsu ha you gamn wll los o-ly and also hang wll.

o oson h buons and buonholsfs ak h amns nln wh abasng had on boh h undla andh ovla. hs a you fn lns.

Buon szng

Le e e Le Le e e e e Le Le

Fo a n losng s dawng blowo gh) h buons a osond onh nln of h undla h buon-hols on h nln of h ovla. Foa funonal doublbasd losng sdawng blow boom gh) h buonsa lad qudsan fom h undlanln h buonhols n osond-ng osons on h ovla. h buonsno h buonhols a qually sadfom h nln

uons a usually sad an qual ds-an aa bu small ons an b aangdn gous o la a lag buon, o hdsan bwn buons an gadually n-as o das down h lngh of honng fo makng any buonholsla h buons on h fab and -mn. Whn you om u wh a lasng a-angmn mak h fab fo lamn.

Mak h buonhols on h gh sdof h fab wh ns o halk; hn awh had fo son. h buonholsshould follow h gan of h fab. ho buonhol s usually lad a lashalf h buon wdh lus n. blow hnkln dg uons should b u a allons of sss suh as a h bus. Pos-on h o, boom and ssson bu-ons fs; hn adjus h ohs. uon-hols a usally lad a las n awayfom h gamn dg. Fo a lag buon,h nson should b a las half hwdh of h buon lus n. Nv u abuonhol n h hm of a gamn. Snh hm s a doubl hknss of fab,h buonhol would b bulky and wouldmak hangng hm lngh oublsom.

uonhol don s dmnd byh don of ull a h gamn on

%

Cene osng

Bonoe isposiionedon cenerineo overp

owh plu % Bon is posiionedon cenerine onderp

eere

Doube-breasted osng

-

Measuing buohoe sze o a age buon

Fol

Mesre rompin o od

nd dd in

cmbr

Bons reI posiioned

eqidisnrom cenerine

enterline

ng Fo aml, h ull on a blous osh as h body movs s hoonal sohoonal buonhols down h fon alow mo as. A val buonhol on afd gamn wh hoonal ul wlhav a ndny o o on h dsgno onsuon of h gamn alls foval buonhos h should bnough fullnss n h gamn o aommoda hm h ull on a val buonhol s downwad so a val buonho

shoud b usd whn h s downwadssu suh as a a shoud losuh buon aways dmns h s of

h buonhol h mnmum lngh fo abuonhol s qual o h wdh o hbuon lus s hknss lus V n foas o fnd h buonho s fo alag buon s dawng blow boomlf) wa a nwd s o aaound h as a of h buon Ska n hough boh ays o a whhy m a h dg of h buon R-mov h a fom h buon lay awhou movng h n) and masuh dsan bwn h n and h fold

Add n fo assons abou buons lad naually

o dsons abou buonhos and ha as many vaaons of buonhols ash a of buons hy an b bound,handshd o mahnmad. hy anb fab ohd yan o had loosu buonhols s anoh who soy

Deboah Abbott is a fashion designe and

weave At Auoa Designs, he shop in

Keene, NH, she ses ustomfitted othing

fom ogina designs, ofen using he own

handwoven fabs

Further reading

uk Co Vogue Sewing.Nw Yok: Ha & Row 982.

avs Maan L. Visua Design inDess Englwood Cl ffs NJ:PnHal, 980

Esn ana uons"Coeto's Bue Book Nw YokWalk & Co 968

Fngs gna S Fashion: omConept to Consume EnglwoodClffs NJ: PnHal 982

Lusomb Sally C he CoetoEnyopedia of Buttons Nw Yok:Cown Publshs 96

Madon John MssssShll Gam Audubon, 8Mah 985) , 4649

Ok ss ola and KahnMos Ls Aessoies of essustated Histoy Poa L:Manual As Pss, 940

Roah May Elln d ess,Adonment, and the Soia OdeNw Yok John Wly Sons 965


60/88

a ordg to o tal th a-mals o Noah's Ark mad thf rst f l t b y w tt g adtramplg th fl that had

b lad dow for thr bddg. Lgdasd w kow for rta that flt whhs mattd wool s th old st fabr prdat-g all othr wov matrals t s a dalprottv ovrg bas of ts strgthwarmth lght wght ad apaty to r-sst soakg Popl hav sd mattd adwathrd amal sks ad bat barkas body ovrgs for ts of thosads ofyars h arlst prsrvd flt rmatsdat bak to 2500 C ad ar attrbtdto varos tral Asa trbs that sdthm to mak yrts rlar domd ttsad lothg

mad flt for th frst tm aftr havgwathd a paprmakg dmostrato. om t smd atral to do to wool what

paprmakrs do to plat fbrshop th

fbrs to a plp a bldr ad thstra thm to shap a dkl bo Myfrst fforts wr ot trly sssflhowvr. h wool fbrs wod thmslvs arod th blads of th bldrasg th bldr to stop ostatlyStrag th wool wth a dkl bo r-sltd a vry flmsy matral

h lard that wool lk wood f-brs dost d to b plpd t has aatral tdy to flt or mat togthrf t s sbjtd to hat mostr agtato ad prssr O th mrosopbarbs o th wool shafts trok thyrv dfflt to pll apart.

h bst wool for makg flt at homhas a short sta pl or fbr lgthroghly . to Logstapl wool rqrsmor agtato. ovg sally omposdof logstapl wool rqrs tdd flt-g a bld of fbrs oly 0% d b

wool for th fbrs to flt togthr

For m th appal of fltmakg s that am abl to apply olor a patrly waywhl tgratg t wth th strtr ofth matral ts somthg lk patgad wavg ombd also mak f-toal op tms sh as hats pl-lows prss ad vsts sg fltd samsts possbl to mak ths op tmss wool srfas wh otat wthah othr th prs of hot watrad prssr wll flt togthr. t f abarrr sh as msl s plad btwth layrs fltg wot or thr lldmostrat how ths prpl works bymakg a hat s pags 62 ad 63

My pr has b wth srfa d-sg o flat ps of flt or garmts o-strtd of flat shts jod by fltdsams bt thr ar othr ways to ap-proah flt. y astg flt mbddg ar-matr t ad shapg t varos

ways yo a s t slptrally Prfltd

Mn


61/88

ece cn e ttced togete y menof n ndtl ewng mcne o teycn e gled.

Preparin the berWeneve e w woowool tt neen wed o oceed w t nlkewm, oy wte e noln mte emoved fom te wool ece -ey, geecoted wl not nte-lock cnge te w wte feqently

t don't e te emete qcklyo gtte te wool nce tt wold felt emtely nd ncontollly.

f ' m gong to de te wool, do o ftewng. ve ted vo oeold dyet tey fde dng te eeted lc-ton of te ot oy wte tt nece-y fo feltng. Genelly e Cln e-e dye ece tey e evy nd veycoloft n ot o olng we. Snce tewool wll e cded nd lended don'tve to woy ot tekng, wc cctetc of c evy dye. m lovey cefl to e te temete o f tedyet lowly o tt te wool doent

clm o mt .et cd te wool comng o-

ce emove dt nd lgn te fe. tcn e done wt nd cd o dmcde. Hnd cdng gve yo olg, cylndelke ece of wool ot 4 n wdend 8 n. long. e dm cde odce tt flt eet of cded wool tt'ot 2 n. wde nd 24 n. long. e comnton of te two metod te dmcde odce cded wool fte tte olg e te gt e nd e folyng n colo o cn lo m colowle cdng o get tle mted coo

cnge n te felt fo emle yo cnvy te ooton of wte nd dyedwool on cceve tt o olg.

Cdng not eentl to feltng t tdoe gve moote moe contolled fce e cm of te woo cn e degnelement. y cdng lgtly yo cn eeve te cly lne of te fleece wcwen felted ecome flt ly de-fned qggle Howeve, f yo'e m-tent to ty feltng, yo cn y ewednd cded tt nd dyed ovng.

Achevn color and texturee ntl vton n te fleece temlet oce of coo n fet o cnotn wde vety of own lck,gy nd wte, oweve, f yo ncldeote nm o f c lccmel t f o dog

f yo dye te wool efoe yo cd tyo wl otn t e wdet colo nge o-le. Snce cded wool fl of oence yo cn m colo y ovelyngtem And once yo ve feted ll te y-e tey wll ecome tctlly one f-c. oce odce mted nd of-edged colo tt end to fly mege wtte fce fte te ece felted ee

no lm to te nme of lye of colo.

1985/Janua 1986

t o ole to wok wt comleedged fom. Ung dyed wool of ngle colo mke eet of felt tt felted t enog to e flttened nd ctno e. en nge te e onte to fce of te lye of cdedwool ee t do no ve te dentynd dne of fned felt o tey wllll felt togee wt te cded wool.og fom dded n t wy ecome tctl t of te fc tey gve te

fce lgtly emoed qlty.Wokng wt dyed og ml tontng nd te efelted ct ece elke collge Of coe tee e mnycomnton nd vton of tee twooce. o cn dd yn nd fondoect fo emle t ddtonl en-focement ttcng on te fce of tefelt my e necey.

o cn o ly colo to dy feltedfce y ntng wt cylc. A tent de, t ee nto te fce n-le me led ft to cot nddefne ndvdl fe. Addtonl cotof nt wll moe oldly cove te

fce. Anote tecnqe tt 've ted to nt wt dye on eet of dm felt.e effect ml to wtecolo on wetce evey fy nd oft. t dff-clt to contol te wckng cton of tedye tey ed tog te fe.

Makin the feld tcturey tckng tee lye of cded wool e-tween two ece of mn, get te ton-get, yet mot fele eet of felt -nge one lye of wool on ece ofml wt te fe lned n teme decton nd te lg o tt

ovelng ec ote lgtly en lce te ote two lye on t wt tefe of ec one eendcl to toeof te evo ye. mke te femt n l decton, odcng fctt doen't ve ole n t nd ttwon't te ely.

Snce my degn e lly on te -fce lye feqently e tt fo tetwo lowe lye nd olg fo te to lye. en cove t to lye wt noteeet of mln. now ve ndwc-tye ckge wool etween mnwc ndew togete wt medm-ed tng ttce ond te edgend co te fce Fo comle de-gn t mgt move ond dng feltng, e mlle ttce. e moettce, te le fce movement dngte gton oce.

ten wet te ckge down wt otoy wte tt y wetng te fceceflly nd ng t down wt tem of my nd. Wt w tck 3 nto 5 n tck ecome eet ot n.ck. Gently fttenng te eet efoegtton el et te degn n lce ndkee e fce fom movng eceveywen yo ly moe teno ee

n te net te

e eet now fttened nd mttedt t n' t felt yet, nd t cold e lled ely. Agtton nd ee e wtmke te fe contct nd n no tedene fc we cll fet. e longe te m-tel gtted te de nd dene tefelt ll e.

ve ed of felte dvng c ovete wool, cong nml to wlk on to mng nd down on t temelvee two mlet metod ve fond to

ect te flttened ckge to gttonnd ee e towng t nto te w-ng mcne nd ollng t wt goovedollng n e olle e wc my -nd degned wood3 n. n dmetend 30 n. longwt n. goove downt lengt o cold lo e oom ndle, n odny olng n o wne ottlewteve come to nd

e olng n gve me oe contol ofte fce movement nd te mont ofgtton o e t wen te fce de-gn fnely deted. wok on concetefloo Altentng lcton of ot,oy wte nd cold wte oll t e eet

n ll decton nd on ot de fo no o o. o cold lo ltente l-cton of cd nd e oton to f-te ek down te fe. ometmedd ot c of lqd tc to te fnl wte mmeon to el kee te -fce moot en leve te eet to dyete nttced, f te deed effect flt nd moot, o tll ttced down fo ocked fce

e wng mcne ovde mcde gtton nd odce denetffe felt. t et fo mle flowngdegn wee yo wnt ome fce

movement of colo nd lne. Afte wettngdown nd flttenng te tck of wool tow t nto te mcne, wc et onte delcte cycle wt lkewm to coolwte. e ece wll nk ot 25% to30%. Ho wte wll nk t mc moeodcng mtel tt lmot toodene to mnlte. Peodclly tote we emove te woo tll n t

T aut sed dy, car r f

t t surfe ofT and sea were fin ce t eele T bot seam se

u ar t stUed61


62/88

musl pckg d ll t flt by hd tpvt cklg u mght lk th c-kd ffct hwv d yu mght wtt pmt wth t

Mch gtt pducs m st-bl sufc th th hdllg mthdh flt wl l th f b lss lkly t fuup lt d wl w btt gt thbst ut f ch mthd stg lblfbc d dtld sufc dsgI us cmbt f th tw mthds I hd-flt f 20 muts th put th pc tth wshg mch f hlf th cyclth hdflt g. Nt ly d I gtwht I wt but I ls sv tm.

I fsh th pc by stmpssg tthugh dmp clth Stm pssg wlls spuc up pc tht hs bcm fuy

Makng shaed objecsy fltg sms d s f wl tgthyu c mk gmts d th th-dms pcs h tchqu s tcstuct sdwch f cdd wl db musl tht yu wp muslcvg d bst. h ft yu flt th

pckg d mv th b muslyull hv tw flt lys jd tgthby sms wh yu lft wl psd twl wth pckt wh th b wsIf yu wt th sms th sd s I df my hts yu tu th ftd pc -sd ut plw I lk th lk f thlyd sms s I lv thm th ut-sd s pht pg 6).

mk pw I stt th sdwchwth cdd wl f th dsg y thtwll b th bck f th pllw wh fshd. I ly t ut ght sd up spt pc f musl s I c s wht Im

dg. h I flp t v t lgpc f musl tht wll wp th fshdpckg. Nt stck tw m lys fbttg tp t fm hlf f th pl-lw d I plc th b pc f muslv t t cv vythg but 2.wddg ud th sds f th ctg.Ov ths b pc I plc tw tys bttg f th tp hlf f th pl-w d thd utsd ly whch hldsc d dsg I wp t l th lgpc f musl I plcd th fst ly .h I wght th stck dw wth bkss ts s t mg dug swg dI sttch th t stck tgth d lt t

ust s I wuld f sgl sht.h s lys f cdd wl wth th

musl b btw th thd duth ys wll fm tw tpllypcs f flt jd th dgs by sm tht s 2 . wd I sw up th futhdg ft stuffg th pllw If th tlys f cld wl th sm cmsut lkg glgcllk ck lysthust up fm th th.

Heather March a graduate of the School

for American Craftsmen is a eaver and

felter in Pnceton MA For a look at com-

mercial hatmaking see page 14

62 The a


63/88

Making a one-piece bathis ha hih is mae ih silaye of ool is se up o be ueinsie ou ha he anl layers you pu on ill inup on he insie of he ha. Youllbegin by laying own a piee ofmuslin has long enough owap he finishe pakage henar skehing he shape of heha on he muslin youll pu wno laye of e-ool basperpeniular eah oherrimming or pushing hem o he skehe shape he hir layerfor hih Marh use aombinaion of hie an reamolor rolags seres as one ofhe has esign surfaes

1 Sar laing on he esignlayer of rolas perpniular o heba uner i.

2. o omplee he esign layerMarh ange preye pariallfele bis on he rolags

3 on he musn barrier

hih ou have u o a smallerbu elongae ha shape hai overs he boom ege hihmus be lef open bu leaves a2-in-ie seam ara aun heop an sies

. No plae he fourh layer ofoolhe oher esign surfae ofhe hairly on he musliner f you hae uble hinkinghe esign huh in reers se up on a sera piee of muslinan hen ip i oer ono hebarier piee

5 Plae o layers of bas on he

esign layer so ha ool is inona ih ool onl aunhe 2-in-ie eg hen overhe i-layer sak of ool ihhe base muslin

6 Weigh he pa o s easier be i ogeher aunhe eges an he .

7 Marh uses han rolling anmahine agiaion o fel hepakage She squirs on a mileergen hen pours ho aerover he pakage

8 She orks in he soap anaer ih a rolling pin hen pus

he pakage ino he asher9 Afer he pakage has beenagiae an rolle some more hefeling proess is omplee. Ahis pin u aay he sihesan he muslin overing.

10 Remove he muslin barrieran rim he fele sam

1 1 urn he ha insie ou.

12 he esign surfaes are noon he ousie of he ha Se heshape by pulling he amp haon on a hea form or i san;hen seam-press i hrough aamp lo h using spray sarh.

mr 985/Janua 1986 63


64/88

T 1 an Otsof Ha QiltiStitching texture and pattern into fabrc

by Maria Giganti and Carol Cly

64 ThraMagazine


65/88

t s ofn onfson sond-ng m qlng" Qlng son sag n aon of a ql sng a olds og o bang and bak

ng. Wl s ogn s ly fnonal ok bang fom sfng and bnng qlng s adds dmnsonand al qaly w ss vn mos nd ql.

qlmakng sn as angd sn

aly olonal days b a fo val-ang andsd ql av no.mall vn nnng ss and onaldad knos a al Qlmaks odaymay no ly on amon of qlngad y s as a sandad fo masngqaly b s no dnyng owof qlng s.

Fo qlngs mofs gnaons ofwomn av sd dsgns dvd fom ob-js n nvonmn Cls da-monds bds f sas and basks avnsd s adonal dsgns as syld nals mkn sds and ga-vns lk okn ss Cs and a-s sdn las and Mlky Way.

Ov yas knds of qls and qlngs dsgns av angd n gnal qls an sll b dvddno man agos wol loalq and d nd vaabl l-mns of a y fab sa and a-n aff o of qlng dsgnsa wll bs nan a ql o.

Whole-coth qultWollo ql os a mad of onlag of fab wonwand lnsywoolsy qls also sold

sh quilti motifs y esee fwholeloth qUilts nite Gntis iece

quilt e) Amish Cene oti " i tifs inl tit s wthin fee weth f thecente i sefet ein the f cs, fethe be Styl-ize ok ves l t cen e which isu by clll t T ttileqity of lsh n qutin is lyet i soli evese

Dmbr 985/Janua 1986

olo ommon n la 8 and aly9 ns dndd oally on qlng s fo onamnaon. Elaboa fad dsgns and as andflows adond m. Evn os lnsy-woolsy qls a w d fom saw sml n dsgn and ld on qlng s fo mbllsmn

On a wollo ql w bwonw o a fw lag s of ol-od fab swn og as n ms

Cn amond ql on fang ag qlng s n of fos

Aliqu qult alq ql n w o sasa swn by and o man ono a lag of fab mloys qlng so nan fab dsgns no mly asan nd n slf ola dng la8 o md9 ny was onsd-d a ql nyon wo s famlaw and alq wll ag a wl ff s osandng wok s longand dos and aks bo skll and -n. nd sn bakgond lo ssally a sold olo s ommon fo a-lq qls o b lavsly qld.

o of qlng dsgns fo an a-lq ql o dnds on nayof alq In dal of an-q ql on ag 66 ona oslav ll bakgond fo na ql-ng o s adonalda-gonal lns nnng og alqdsgn blndng no bakgond

no oon s o oql wolns and mass alqd dsgn s ag 66 dawng a lf. W fndqlng a s don n. o n away

fom dsgn looks bs flaboaon mg b a dobl oln onbo osd and nsd of a-lq dsgn and a gd an aan dagonal lns as bakgond sag 66 dawng a g. los oss-a qlng lns onas w ng-av sa nsd alq dsgnonbng galy o al qalyof ql.

Peced quld qls gw n olay af mddl of 9 ny as nw fabsw mad avalabl by nologal ad-vans. Qlng dsgns fo s qlsdnd mosly on d dsgn bs and sa y of fab a-n and amon and s of sasngsand bods wll all aff o.

adonal wollo and alq

qlng dsgns a asly adad od qls. Qls d w lag go-m sas and bods a flysd o adonal wollo fa- was and gavn bods Fo abloksyl ql mad w alnangsold sqas salddown vsons ofas and flows and ona gom

sas wok nly

Eo and sagln qlng onvnonal alq dsgns wok wll wd qls. Eoqlng smls andas an od onn wavs a -nfo da of movmn as n ql n o oo on ag 6) smly of sagln qlng oml-mns ngllmn adonal dsgnss as nsn and adows and Lon a w ly on olo a andsgn nay fo vsal ff.

nmb and vay of qlng d-sgns a as lmlss as nmb ofng dsgns. f yo an g on a an b qld. followng a sggs-ons fo lannng ansfn and -ng qlng dsgns

Pla he def swng a ql o og daw andolo a sal dagam of ql n-sqad ga a woks wll. Usng adffn of ang a fo ason of dsgn allows yo o bldon n al mof wo onsanly -dawng n dagam y layng a ov a yo g an da of movmn of dsgn Is movng oo fao Is oo ld

f ddng on gnal don dsgn wll ak yo' ady o bgnansfng yo das o fab. bs lad lans somms a owas by a sly of lo ffn fab-s and olos an gv vad and sblsls Ofn as yo ql yoll no anff a old no av bn anadfom a sk. o a an mak n ql bfo yo on fammak a son as yo go along s

way yoll g a b fl fo ow qlng s and dsgn wok w fab I may ak long b s wo ng abl o mak angs gvs yo moonol ov dsgn.

Full-ze deans w ofn dawn fand on qls. aks a ad y and asady and Usally a an ms qlngb s a ql known fo -s wo wll mak ql w alksng fo lag ls w a bassof fa was o oasonally a l

Mos qls s a mla o anof som knd fo qlng dsgns. mla an b a glass fo ls aook o a las s w aoml dsgn no . Qls dv das fom ngs aond m of sollwok o a asd anl on a of fn an gv s o an da.o an a flow o of la dsgnon bl bods of ms Cnamond ql am fom a manol ov.

Qlng dsgns fom books o a a-ns s os of sls" ag 68an b ad and ansfd ono avya adboad o ansan snl

las. nd onon ans a avalabl

65


66/88


67/88

saona. Wh h of ou nl omak n h aoa hol swng hul o mak h a ha wll b ouqulng guln a a nals foaalll us.

QuiliTh hanqulng sh s a lan unnngsh ha gos hough all h las ofh qul Af makng h o an bas-ng h h las ogh ou a a

o sa Alwas bgn qulng n h ml of h qul, an wok ou owa hgs o nsu ha h bang won lum.

Qulng nls a all bwnsan a abou an nh longsho hanona swng nls Fo a bgnn, ao o o 8 nl s goo an hlso a wh on bfo sng ou onou qul as h nl an b fful ohanl a fs. Th bwn nl hlsh qul mak n n shs. Thnl s hl a an au angl o h fab- an ush hough all h lasUsng h n fng of h f han

ou lf n fng f ou a gh-han whh s blow h qul ougu h nl u s hoo on ag 68.Th ob s o g n shs whhwll bom small wh a. Tnshs o h nh s al. Soon ou wllfn ouslf kng u wo o hshs a a m.

Thmbls a nssa fo qulng.Mos quls wa hmbl on h h

cusommade asic emlae

I

% sq

Grphd dsgn

\

For ar. compicaed

' design, sarwih a drawingon graphpape Addguideines ha

wi hep posiion he

"

empaein use

J YI-Plst tmplt

)

Aerranserrng hedegn o he

pece o pasbu hoes orsis as showno mae he

Documents

Threads Magazine 02 - December 1985 January 1986