The Viking guide to

Greece

“We are all Greeks. Our laws, our literature, our religion, our arts have their root in Greece.” - Percy Bysshe Shelley

Experience ancient history and breathtaking vistas on one of our ocean cruises to Greece.

With crumbling ruins and fertile olive groves, all bathed in the Mediterranean sun - visiting Greece transports you far back in time. Home to world famous archaeological sites like the Acropolis, Greece feels like a crossroads to an ancient world. Among the many islands you’ll find Epidaurus and Delphi, not to mention the other 16 UNESCO World Heritage Sites the country has to offer. Sat in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, Ancient Greece

was the birthplace of democracy, tragic and comic theatre, Western philosophy and some key mathematical and scientific principles. From Corfu’s Greek name, Korkyra - named after a beautiful nymph whom the sea god Poseidon fell in love with - to the Temple of Zeus in Athens, ancient mythology can be felt everywhere.

Today Greece is a popular destination with a thriving tourist industry - and understandably so. Due to its many

islands, Greece has the longest coastline in Europe, making it an idyllic destination for beach-goers. And if a city break sounds more appealing, there is no shortage of museums, galleries, theatrical performances, sporting events and wonderful restaurants. Whatever type of adventure you’re looking for, rest assured, it’s possible on the alluring islands of Greece.

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The Greek capital is simply fascinating, with its astonishing history, incredible ancient buildings and a vibrant cosmopolitan atmosphere.Athens

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With a recorded history of more than 3,400 years, Athens is arguably the most historic city in the world. According to Greek mythology, it was named after Athena, goddess of wisdom, after she won a competition with Poseidon, god of the sea, to decide who would become the protector of the city. And it was here that a civilisation developed, ultimately shaping the Roman empire and determining the fate of Europe.

The ancient city state of Athens was a dominating power, often warring with neighbours Corinth and Sparta for control of the Peloponnesus. Today, Athens, along with its port, Piraeus - the second largest in the world - is a lively and impressive metropolis.

Must sees

The wide orange tree-lined streets of Athens are a pleasure to walk around. Furthermore, it’s fairly easy to make your way to the main sights once you’re in the city centre.

The main attraction is, of course, the Acropolis and the Parthenon, the ancient temple to the Greek gods that dates back to the 5th century. There are 80 steps up to the top of the UNESCO site but it’s an iconic experience and definitely not to be missed. Slightly easier to get to and also worth visiting is the new Acropolis Museum, which has a great collection of artefacts, plus an excellent cafe with views of the Acropolis.

One of the most impressive sights is the Temple of Zeus, not far from the foot of the Acropolis, where you can explore the remaining columns of what was once a colossal temple. You can witness more complete Athenian buildings like the Panathenaic Stadium, an ancient hippodrome that was the site of the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.

The Kolonaki (little column) district is always quite lively and is home to the Benaki Museum and the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art - two of the finest private collections of art in the country.

No visit to Athens would be complete without seeing the Changing of the

Unearth the mythology of ancient Athens on our Empires of the Mediterranean cruise.

Guards (Evzones) at the Parliament building in Constitution (Syntagma) Square. And, in keeping with tradition, they still wear pom poms on their shoes.

Shopping

Kolonaki is home to a variety of upmarket boutiques and independent souvenir shops, as is the Plaka district at the base of the Acropolis. Close to Constitution you’ll find designer shops and the luxurious Attica department store, but for a more authentic

experience explore the central market or the Monastiraki Flea Market where you can try haggling. Uncover unique shops and boutiques dotted around the neighbourhoods, selling everything from pottery to olive oil by the gallon - and look out for products by Greek beauty brands Korres and Apivita.

Eating

An absolute must-try is baklava and also koulouria - you’ll find these

sesame bread rings on stalls all over the city. For a very Athenian experience head to historic Zonar’s Cafe and enjoy the atmosphere and Art Deco interiors. Closer to the port at Piraeus you can find an array of seafood restaurants. For a refreshing snack and alternative to ice cream try one of the many Greek frozen yoghurt cafes. Indulge in several exciting flavours ranging from black cherry to herbs, and toppings including rose petals, lemon and fig.

From vineyards to lost cities, the Aegean’s most dazzling jewel offers so much more than its many iconic viewpoints.Santorini

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The serene sunsets and balmy Mediterranean views for which Santorini is famous today feel a long way from its violent geological past. This dreamy crescent-shaped island, the furthest of the Cyclades from Athens, is the result of several volcanic eruptions including one that not only caused the centre of the island to collapse but also triggered a tsunami that led to the fall of the Minoan Crete.

The unique geology of Santorini is very much part of its appeal - black-sand beaches make the azure blue of the sea deeper than ever. Sheer lava cliffs offer incredible views, while the whitewashed churches, windmills and villas against the parched, black hilltops stand out from miles at sea.

The most impressive viewpoints are on the west of the island, where villages such as Oia and Firostefani perch precariously on the caldera edge. From Oia, the much-photographed zigzag

stairway leads down to Amoudi Bay, or from the capital of the island, Thira, a cable car ferries people down 300 metres to the old port. On the east side, black-sand beaches run alongside often-deserted archaeological sites, including Akrotiri, which was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 17th-century BC but is preserved like Pompeii. Below Akrotiri is the dramatic red-sand cove Kokkini Ammos, and further down the coast sits Ancient Thira and the island’s most manicured beach - Kamari.

Must sees

Pyrgos, the old capital of the island, is the best place to catch a glimpse of island life. After meandering through the medieval streets, it may be possible to see inside one of the traditional houses. Locals often head to the faros (lighthouse) on the south-western tip of the island for a picnic-with-a-view. The best time to visit is during sunset.

Although Boutari is the most extensive winery on the island, Venetsanos is the most fascinating - built before mains electricity was available, the whole wine-making process here was designed to be hand- or gravity-assisted.

The Museum of Prehistoric Thera is one of the best on the island. Look out for original Minoan frescoes depicting elegant women. Although slightly more ramshackle, Megaro Gyzi is a former Catholic archbishopric that houses an eclectic mix of artefacts depicting the island’s history - engravings, maps, views of the 1886 eruption and photos before the terrible earthquake of 1956.

There are also several marked walking routes around the island. You can pick up a designated map from the information centre in port or look out for wooden signposts with red-route numbers - nine and three are meant to be the most stunning.

Visit the gleaming whitewashed villages of Santorini on our Empires of the Mediterranean cruise.

Finally, if the cerulean-coloured sea looks too appealing to miss, dive into one of the 30 recognised scuba sites around Santorini and Thirasia. On one spectacular dive you will be able to marvel at damselfish and parrot fish gliding over a Second World War wreck.

Shopping

Jewellry fans will not be disappointed in Santorini and can peruse over 40 shops, mostly on the main street of Fire. This has led to the area becoming known as ‘Gold street’. If it is clothes you are looking for, head over to Oia and Fira where you’ll find several small boutiques selling original items by local designers. There are also plenty of stores selling tomato seeds, white

eggplant seeds, local Canava ouzo, Santorini Raki and wines - perfect for local souvenirs. Santorini Products in Pyrgos is arguably one of the best of these stores.

Eating

With lashings of Mediterranean sunshine, mineral rich volcanic soil and a healthy fishing fleet, Santorini has a thriving food scene. Specialities include domatinia (cherry tomatoes), fava (pureed yellow peas) and white aubergines, all washed down with one of the island’s characterful white wines.

With tables overlooking Santorini’s main fishing port, Psaraki is a top spot to enjoy crisp aubergine salad, bonito fish and mullet bottarga (cured fish roe). These delicacies are all cooked to perfection and served with refreshing local wine.

For a sense of vintage Santorini, head to Aktaion - one of the oldest tavernas on the island. The Roussos family has served light and locally inspired dishes, such as grilled octopus with cress, ouzo and milk since 1922. Finally, for a reasonably priced - and quaint - taverna with views facing towards Thirasia, get a table at Giorgaros. The shrimp and white bream here is not to be missed.

The romantic island of Corfu is resplendent with charming pastel townhouses and pristine white beaches. Its rich history echoes throughout the Venetian styled Old Town.Corfu

vFeel the allure of Corfu and its breathtaking beaches on our Mediterranean Odyssey cruise.

Must sees

A picturesque drive to Kanoni, to view tiny Mouse Island and the Vlacherna Monastery is a must. Along the coastline through Garitsa Bay, you will reach the UNESCO Site of the Old Town. Here you can see the fabled Esplanade, one of Europe’s largest public squares, and the Liston Promenade, once the exclusive preserve of the local aristocracy.

Cape Drastis, in the north of Corfu, is a great place for photos. The rugged white cliffs are a staggering sight - especially when the sun hits them.

To see some of Corfu’s picturesque Venetian houses, take a stroll through the old town of Kerkyra. Here you can find the Statue of Georgios Theotokis, the Liston, the Old Fortress, Spilias Square and Saint Spyridon Church (the patron saint of the town). Sandwiched between two ancient castles - the Old Fortress houses the magnificent St. George’s Church - it is

undoubtedly one of the most romantic places in Greece.

The historic fishing village of Agni Bay is also worth visiting. This is the perfect place to relax, take a dip in the warm waters and enjoy a bite at one of the local tavernas. If you’re a fan of seafood you won’t be disappointed.

Eating

Whilst in Agni Bay, make a stop at Nikolas’ Taverna. Here you can enjoy local delicacies such as corfiot bourdeto (black scorpion fish in a spicy sauce) whilst overlooking a spectacular view of the beach.

Alternatively, head over to Salto Wine Bar Bistro for the tuna fillet in ginger sauce and an exquisite seafood kritharotó (orzo seafood risotto) - the chef is very generous with the shellfish.

As well as the wide variety of seafood on offer, lamb-based dishes are also

very popular on the island. And, if you have a sweet tooth, you should try Sykomaïtha. This delicious cake is made from figs and has an amazing melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Shopping

Corfu is a great place to shop and you’ll find everything from souvenirs to designer clothes along its cobbled streets. Some of the best deals can be made on leather goods, jewellery, gold and silver - but do buy jewellery from a reputable jeweller.

The island is one of the best destinations for traditional Greek ceramic work and there is also a wide variety of hand-woven carpets, tablecloths, napkins, skirts and blouses available in Corfu town. A popular choice for tourists is heavy white stitched sweaters, made locally on the Aegean Island. There are usually opportunities to haggle but the prices do tend to fall slightly when the tourist season ends.

The quaint Greek port of Katakolon is a gateway to the legendary Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games. Stroll amongst ancient city ruins and through green fertile valleys.Katakolon

vWalk the path of Olympic giants on our Venice, the Adriatic and Greece cruise.

Must sees

No trip to Katakolon would be complete without a visit to the historic Olympia. The World Heritage site is located in a valley in the Peloponnesus and was a centre for the worship of Zeus in the 10th century B.C. Furthermore, The Altis – the sanctuary to the gods – has one of the highest concentrations of masterpieces from the ancient Greek world. Of course, as the name suggests, visitors can also see the remains of all the sports structures erected for the Olympic Games. A site of huge historical significance, these date back to 776 B.C.

Despite being a relatively small village, Katakolon has two museums that are

worth a visit: the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology and the Museum of Ancient Greek Musical Instruments. Alternatively, if you are looking to relax and soak in some sunshine, St. Andrew Beach is the perfect spot. There are also lots of authentic tavernas nearby to unwind with an ice-cold bottle of Mythos, a popular Greek beer.

Eating

There are many excellent tavernas to choose from when wandering around this attractive fishing port. One of the best, despite its rustic appearance, is Taverna Jimmy’s. This is located a street back from the waterfront near the whitewashed church. Highlights from the menu include perfectly

tender calamari and the zingy chicken gyro (chicken, salad and tzatziki in pita) - enjoyed best on the terrace outside, whilst watching the world go by.

Shopping

Despite its moderate size, Katakolon has a nice selection of shops to peruse for souvenirs. Head over to The Collector’s Store, tucked away in the backstreets, for traditional bric-a-brac like old Greek lace, hand blown glass, paintings and other charms. Alternatively, visit ThalassaShop, located near St. Nikolaos church, for pottery made by local artists and a selection of rich and delicious olive oils.

Home to the Ideon Cave, the birthplace of Zeus - Crete is steeped in history. Visit fine-sand beaches, white mountains and Souda Bay: a vital port since antiquity.Crete

vFeel the ancient mythology of Crete on our Journey to Antiquities cruise.

Must sees

The largest of the Greek islands, there is no shortage of things to do in Crete. If you have an interest in history, visit Europe’s oldest city: Knossos. Enjoy the stunning frescoes and incredible Throne Room of the Knossos Palace, the biggest Bronze Age site in Crete.

Also, as it is so close, take one of the small boats that leave Elounda every 30 minutes and travel to the tiny island of Spinalonga. Here you can learn about the turbulent history of the island which includes Arab raids, Venetian conquering, Ottoman occupation - before being turned it into a leper colony. Luckily, it’s a much more peaceful place to visit today.

There is lots to do in Chania, which you can wander by foot. Be sure to visit the pretty Venetian Harbour, old lighthouse and bustling Agora Marketplace - the freshly picked figs are a delight.

Alternatively, if you really want to get away from everything, take a boat ride to the remote village of Loutro. Seemingly cut off from the world, this tiny fishing village on the south coast feels like Greece of years gone by - it is, without a doubt, a hidden gem.

Eating

Crete is a culinary paradise for food lovers. From deliciously tangy Cretan Cheeses, Kalitsounia (cheese and herb pies) and Dakos (rusk, tomatoes, sheep’s cheese and Greek olive oil), the island offers a variety of mouth-watering options.

To Pareaki, in the town of Agios Nikolaos, is a lovely place to eat. The order of the day here is meze, so be sure to try the deliciously tender grilled octopus, stuffed tomatoes and keftedes (Greek meatballs).

You’ll find many lovely cafes in the historic, cobbled streets of Rethymno;

it’s the perfect place to enjoy a spot of people watching with an ice-cold frappé.

Shopping

From designer outlets to traditional markets, it isn’t hard to find something worth shopping for in Crete.

Heraklion is the largest city in - and the capital of - Crete. With that in mind, there are lots of great places to shop. Perhaps the most charming is Odos 1866, a market street in the downtown area. Here you can find a variety of charming trinkets, from copper coffee pots to olive wood bowls and painted ceramics.

If you are looking to treat yourself, make your way to Elounda. Here you’ll find shopping plazas, within the resort’s hotels, selling chic tailored clothing and some of the finest silver jewellery on the island.

The attractive island of Mykonos offers sun-drenched beaches and beautifully historic windmills. See spectacular seaside ridges and walk labyrinthine streets of whitewashed houses.Mykonos

vExplore stunning Mykonos on our Cities of Antiquity and the Holy Land cruise.

Must sees

The traditional windmill is an instantly recognisable symbol of Mykonos. For many centuries the mills were used to refine grain. However, with the progress of technology, the use of these striking landmarks slowly declined. Today, the remaining windmills are used as private homes or museums that are open to the public. Take a walk up the hill in Chora to visit the windmill of Boni (now a museum). Your efforts will be rewarded with an incredible view of Mykonos - especially at sunset.

Whilst visiting Mykonos, it is well worth taking a trip to the now uninhabited island of Delos. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered to be one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. According to Ancient Greek Mythology, it was the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. You can visit it by taking one of the many ships

that depart daily from Mykonos old harbour (except Mondays when the site is closed).

Whilst at the old harbour, which is a lovely place to stroll around at night, look out for Petros, the pelican on Mykonos - he’s a local hero on the island.

Eating

For food and wine enthusiasts, visit Mykonos Vioma Organic Farm. This tranquil farm produces its own organic wine and honey and it is set in a quiet area of countryside surrounded by vineyards and farm animals. Here you can sample a variety of wines produced on the farm, accompanied by traditional savoury bites. Expect to try kopanisti and ladotyri (local cheeses), lountza (ham, rusks and olive oil) and the classic Greek salad.

Located in Mykonos town, Paraportiani Taverna is a nice spot for lunch.

This family-run restaurant offers the traditional fare and overlooks a small, picturesque square. The stuffed Florina peppers with feta are a must-try here.

Little Venice - named because of its resemblance to the popular Italian destination - is the ideal place to stop for a drink. The neighbourhood is made up of colourful houses, built on the edge of the sea, that have been transformed into elegant bars and restaurants. It’s the perfect setting to watch the sunset with a cocktail or two.

Shopping

Mykonos has, arguably, one of the best shopping scenes in Greece. Not only do the winding alleyways have the best variety of outlets - selling everything from designer labels to traditional souvenirs - they’re one of the prettiest places to simply window shop as well.

The lush, fertile “Island of Knights” is home to Europe’s largest active medieval town. Like taking a trip through time, Rhodes is home to some awe-inspiring castles, palaces and the ancient Acropolis of Lindos.Rhodes

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Discover the beaches and ancient ruins of Rhodes onour Cities of Antiquity and the Holy Land cruise.

Must sees

The beautiful Old Town of Rhodes has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is well worth a visit. Here you see one of the most well preserved Medieval settlements in the world. A rich history of 2,400 years can be felt throughout the Street of the Knights and the Palace of the Grand Masters. Also, be sure to visit the clock tower where you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea.

The Valley of the Butterflies is a lush, green canyon (about 1 km wide) and is a must-see whilst visiting Rhodes. You can stroll through a stunning forest with the smell of nectar in the air and, if you’re fortunate enough, will catch a glimpse of the colourful butterflies that inhabit the valley.

And, of course, Rhodes is also an excellent destination for beaches. Kiotari, Kallithea, Agathi, Apolakkia, Kolymbia, Lardos and Afandou - with its own golf course - are some of the most serene.

Eating

Despite, by definition, being an ‘old town’, Rhodes offers an array of cutting-edge restaurants. One of the very best is Mavrikos, located in the village of Lindos, which provides innovative versions of classic dishes. The cuttlefish-ink risotto is one of the standout dishes on the menu.

What’s more, Rhodes offers an excellent array of local wines to compliment these dishes. Apparently, it was the first island in the Aegean

to cultivate a vineyard and make its own wine. As a matter of fact, in ancient times Rhodians were actually considered to be the largest wine merchants in the Mediterranean. So be sure to share a quatruzzo (decanter) of wine with your meal.

Shopping

Throughout Rhodes you’ll find a wide variety of stores. From the Old Town’s small outlets that sell souvenir trinkets, to the modern and stylish boutiques of Madraki - offering a variety of brand-name clothing - there’s something to satisfy every taste. The attractive village of Lindos - built on a slope - is also a great place to pick up authentic gifts such as traditional decorative plates and jewellery.

FoodGreek food is as complex as its changing political boundaries. But steeped in rich history and surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is home to some of the finest ingredients in the world. Cooked to perfection and washed down with a glass of ouzo, of course.

MoussakaConsidered to be one of Greece’s top comfort foods, a forkful of perfectly-baked moussaka is unbeatable. Although considered a Greek dish, It is widely believed that the Arabs introduced moussaka to the world when they introduced the aubergine. Although there are several variations, the traditional dish always consists of aubergine and ground meat.

Ingredients1kg aubergine, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch rounds

250 ml of olive oil

1 yellow onion, grated

2 garlic cloves, sliced

2 pounds lean ground beef

450g tomato puree

1/4 tsp ground allspice

1/2 tsp granulated sugar

Salt and pepper

1 egg white, lightly beaten

5 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley

5 tbsp plain breadcrumbs

125g grated Parmesan cheese

1kg russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch rounds

For the White Sauce:

250 ml of whole milk

3 tbsp unsalted butter

3 tbsp all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

Salt and white pepper, to taste

5 tbsp heavy cream

3 egg yolks, lightly beaten

Moussaka

Method

1. Sprinkle the aubergine slices with salt and let them drain in a colander for an hour. Rinse, squeeze out any excess water and pat dry.

2. Next, heat 60 ml of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the aubergine and cook, turning occasionally, for 6 - 8 minutes, or until lightly browned on both sides. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon or spatula and drain.

3. Reduce the heat to a low temperature and add the remaining 60 ml of olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium, add the ground beef and cook for about 10 minutes. Add the tomato puree, allspice and sugar, seasoning with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 - 20 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and let cool, then fold in the egg white and parsley.

4. In the meantime, prepare the white sauce. To do this, place the milk in a small saucepan and bring to barely a boil, then remove from the heat. Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat, then stir in the flour and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually pour

in the hot milk, whisking constantly until the mixture is smooth. Return the sauce to medium heat and simmer, whisking constantly for 10 - 15 minutes. The consistency should be thick and smooth. Remove from the heat, and whisk in the nutmeg, salt and pepper.

5. Preheat oven to 200°C and grease a 10x15-inch Lasagne pan with butter, sprinkling 2 tablespoons of breadcrumbs on top. Cover the base of the dish with the potato slices, overlapping them slightly. Spread half of the meat mixture on top, sprinkling half of the Parmesan cheese and 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs on top. Cover with the aubergine slices, overlapping them slightly. Spread the meat mixture on top, sprinkling the remaining Parmesan cheese and the leftover breadcrumbs.

6. Finally, whisk the cream and egg yolks into the white sauce and spread it evenly over the surface of the dish. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

Prep time: 1 hour

Cooking time: 1 1/2 hours

Makes 8 servings

Greek SaladPerfect on a sunny afternoon, Horiatiki (Greek Salad) finds deliciousness in simplicity. The traditional recipe will only ever include tomato, sliced cucumber, green pepper, sliced red onion, Kalamata olives and - of course - feta cheese. It should also be seasoned with dried oregano and salt, whilst being dressed with good quality extra virgin olive oil and a splash of red wine vinegar.

Ingredients

3 tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 medium red onion, sliced into rings

1 cucumber, peeled and sliced into thick half-moons

1 green pepper, sliced

16 Kalamata olives

200g block of quality feta cheese

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

60 ml of extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp dried oregano

Sea salt to taste

Method

1. Wash and strain the vegetables. Cut the tomatoes into wedges, slice the onion into thin rings, cut the cucumber in thick slices and add all ingredients - including the olives - into a large bowl.

2. Season with salt and pour over the extra virgin olive oil and vinegar. Toss everything together, so that the flavours mix. Be careful with the salt - the feta cheese and olives will be salty enough.

3. Serve with feta cheese on top, a drizzle of olive oil and dried oregano. Enjoy with a slice of crusty bread.

TzatzikiMellow and refreshing, Tzatziki is the perfect accompaniment for many Greek dishes. The dips origins are ancient and stem from a need to use up excess yogurt production. Generally served as a cold meze, Tzatziki is an invigorating mix of yogurt, cucumbers, garlic and herbs.

Ingredients

350g Greek yogurt (or plain full-fat yogurt)

2 large cucumbers

2-3 tbsp lemon juice

4 garlic cloves, crushed

120 ml of extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp fresh black pepper

A handful of fresh mint leaves or dill

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

Method

1. Wash the cucumber, cut off the ends and grate.

2. Put it into a colander and sprinkle with salt, mixing so all the cucumber pieces are coated. Place the colander over a bowl to drain all of the moisture from the cucumber. Allow it to drain for 15-30 minutes.

3. Combine the other ingredients in a medium mixing bowl.

4. Press and squeeze the cucumber with

your hands until you have pressed out as much water as possible.

5. Stir the cucumber into the yogurt mixture. Taste and add more salt, pepper, vinegar, garlic or herbs to taste.

Prep time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 4 minutes

Makes 3 servings

Serving SuggestionTzatziki tastes best when chilled so refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.

SpanakopitaThis dish dates back to Ancient Greece, when pies were commonly eaten as a snack or main meal. Farmers used to add herbs and vegetables into the stuffing and, consequently, Spanakopita was born. The phyllo (filo) pastry derives from the Greek word φύλλο that means “leaf” - symbolising the thin and crispy layers that construct the pie.

Ingredients3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 a large yellow onion, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

1 shallot, peeled and diced (about 2 tbsp)

6 cloves garlic, peeled, cut in half and grated, any green centers discarded

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

900g baby spinach, roughly chopped, any thick stems removed

Fresh dill, finely chopped (about 2 tsp)

Leaves of 3 sprigs fresh marjoram or oregano, chopped (about 2 tsp)

Leaves of 3 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped (about 2 tsp)

340g of crumbled feta cheese

7 large eggs, lightly beaten

225g (2 sticks) salted butter

60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, Greek or another good-quality fruity variety preferred

6 dried or 3 fresh bay leaves

900g frozen filo pastry, defrosted in the refrigerator

Method

1. To make the filling, heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the onions for 3 - 5 minutes. Add the shallot and cook until they have softened (2 - 3 minutes). Stir in the garlic and cook for 15 seconds. Add the lemon juice and zest and stir to incorporate.

2. Add as many spinach leaves as the pan can hold, and cook for 4 - 5 minutes. When they have wilted, add more - working in batches. Cook the spinach until it has released its liquid and the liquid has evaporated. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

3. Mix in the dill, marjoram, and thyme. Then, combine the feta as well. Once the mixture is no longer piping hot, add the eggs and mix. Set aside.

4. Next, heat the butter and oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the bay leaves and as soon as the butter is melted, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and soak the bay leaves for 5 minutes.

5. Remove the filo sheets from their plastic wrapper, unroll on a work surface or plate and cover with a piece of greaseproof paper. Drape a few moist paper towels over

Spanakopita

the parchment paper, covering the entire exposed surface of the pile of filo dough.

6. Peel 1 sheet of filo from the pile (replacing the parchment and paper towel while you work with this sheet). Place it into the prepared baking dish, positioning one end in the centre of the pan and letting the sheet drape out over one of the long sides of the pan (there should be about a 3-inch overhang). Peel another sheet from the pile, replace the covering and place in the pan, next to the first sheet of filo. They should overlap slightly. Repeat this process, until you have a total of 6 sheets around the entire pan (two on each long side and one each for the short sides). With a pastry brush, gently dab some of the melted butter over the surface of the filo (including the overhang) holding the filo gently with your hand. Don’t worry if some breaks off.

7. Build the second layer of the filo crust: Arrange another layer of 6 sheets on top of the first layer, following the previous instructions. (You will have used a total of 12 sheets.) Brush with butter again.

8. Now spoon the filling into the crust. Use a spatula to spread it evenly and smooth the top. Make sure to spread the filling into the corners.

9. Fold the filo overhang up and onto the

filling, beginning with the pieces on the long sides of the pan and finishing with the pieces on the short sides.

10. Peel 1 sheet of filo from the pile and - again - replace the paper towel covering. Place this sheet of filo lengthwise on top of the filling and tuck the edges into the sides. With a pastry brush, gently dab some of the melted butter over it. Next, tp with another sheet and brush with butter again. Repeat this process with 2 more sheets Then place 2 sheets on at a time and dab the surface liberally with the butter. Repeat until you have used up a total of 8 sheets.

11. Bake the spanakopita at 375°C for 35 - 45 minutes or until the top is golden-brown and crispy.

Cooking time: 1 hour

Makes 12 servings

LoukoumadesLoukoumades are fried donuts, elevated to another level. They are served warm and drizzled with honey syrup and cinnamon. This traditional dessert embodies the Greek proverb: “all is well when the honey is sweet”.

Ingredients2 (7g) sachets dried active baking yeast

250 ml warm water

125 ml warm milk

4 tbsp caster sugar

1 tsp salt

75g unsalted butter, softened

3 eggs

500g plain flour

175g honey

125 ml water

1 litre vegetable oil or as needed

2 tsp ground cinnamon

Method

1. Sprinkle the yeast over warm water in a small bowl - it should be no more than 40°C. Let it stand for 5 minutes until the yeast softens and begins to form a creamy foam. Then, in a large bowl, mix the warm milk, sugar and salt and mix to dissolve. Pour the yeast mixture into the milk mixture and stir to combine.

2. Next, beat in the butter, eggs and flour until the

mixture forms a smooth, soft dough. Cover the bowl and let rise until it has doubled in size. This should take about 30 minutes. Stir the dough well, cover and let it rise 30 more minutes.

3. Now it’s time to mix honey and 125ml of water in a saucepan. Bring this to the boil over medium-high heat. Then, turn off the heat and let the honey syrup cool.

4. Heat the oil (about 5 cm deep) in a deep-fat fryer or large saucepan to 180°C. Place a large table or soup spoon in a glass of water near the batter. Scoop up about 2 tablespoons of dough per puff with the wet spoon, drop it into the wet palm of your hand and roll it back into the spoon to create a round shape. Be careful not to over handle the soft dough. Drop the dough balls into the hot oil in batches, wetting the spoon each time you make a dough ball. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown on the bottom and roll them over to cook the other side, 2 - 3 minutes per batch. Gently set the loukoumades aside to drain on kitchen towels.

5. Place the loukoumades on a baking tray, drizzle them with honey syrup and sprinkle with cinnamon. Serve warm.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Extra time: 1 hour of proofing

Makes 25 loukoumades

Your memoriesFor full details of Viking’s cruises in Greece click here.

Alan Howe

Pat Hoar

Helen Curtis

Ray Eggleton

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