Doug woke up at three in the morning. I knew he was awake because he

said out loud “I’m awake.” That was nice of him. When you’re sharing

a room it’s always good to know when your roommate is awake, even

if you happen to be in the middle of the best dream you’ve ever

had. Very courteous of Doug to just put it out there like that.

Thanks Doug. As soon as I realized Doug was awake I was hit by a

horrible memory. It was of the last thing I did last night before I

went to sleep. It was of a text message I sent to the girl I love

but who doesn’t love me. I was a bit drunk when I sent it. It had

seemed like a good idea at the time but now it felt like the worst

mistake of my life. Worse than the time I put shaving cream on my

toothbrush even. I was awake too now. Very awake. I had to escape

myself so I suggested to Doug that we should go to the contest site

and see if there was any swell. So we did. We got to the contest

site in the dark and two cars were parked in the designated surfer

parking spots. They were parked in front of photos of Kolohe Andino

and Brett Simpson. “Kolohe Andino and Brett Simpson must be here,”

said Doug. We walked along the path until we reached the main

scaffolding. Just as we arrived Damien Hardman made the call that

there would be a 12 o’clock call looking at a possible 2 o’clock

call. That seemed like a lot of calls. I hoped he had a good phone

plan. Doug and I paddled out and surfed with Kolohe Andino and

Brett Simpson and Pancho Sullivan and Toby Martin. The waves were

tiny but the wind was offshore and the sun was beginning to peek over

the dunes. It was a beautiful morning and the talk was positive.

There was a feeling the next few days were going to deliver. But in

between waves and random chatter I could taste something like the

bitter tang of shaving cream on my tongue. Why Goddamit? Why did I

send her that drunken text? Sigh... - VB

A GooD IDeA At tHe tIme

Since Wilbur and Orville Wright

launched the first manned glider off

the Kill Devil Hills in Kitty Hawk

North Carolina man has dreamed of

mastering flight. Yesterday Gabriel

Medina achieved what Willsy and

Orvs could only have imagined

when he piloted his surf vehicle

through a 360 degree rotation over

nine yards long to claim the Buondi

Best Move Expression Session at

Supertubos. Not only did he win

$1000 he created aviation history

by making the turn on a wave smaller

than a bee’s wee wee. Who did Gabby

beat for the win? Well, none other

than Bede Durbidge, Adam Melling,

Jadson Andre, Heitor Alves, Kai

Otton, Owen Wright and a totally on

fuego Miguel Pupo, (who everyone in

the world loves more than their own

family because he’s such a legend).

Well done Gabby Dabby Doo!

DREAM OF SPINNING FLIGHt

SARDINE PIE

Wanna hear something crazy? In 1988 Damien Hardman won seven WCTs and didn’t win the World Title. Can you believe that? It happened. A few years later he opened a pie shop at Narrabeen that made the best chicken and asparagus pie I’ve ever eaten. Now he’s the contest director at the Rip Curl Pro Portugal. We got him to pose out on some rocks on sunset for a pensive and moody opener for this interview.

Does anyone still call you “Pies Hardman”?There’re only two people who call me that. You and Ridgway. thank God that never stuck. Thank God you guys don’t do commentary anymore.

Do you still have the recipe for the chicken and asparagus pies?I never had the recipe. It was my Mum’s. I was just riding her coat tails.

So how’s the swell looking for the next few days?It’s looking like a very flexible forecast. It’s a forecast drawn

with a pencil so you can rub it out and start again at any time (laughs). Nah, Saturday could be the best day of the waiting period and it’s looking like Monday could be quite good as well.

There’s another swell coming Wednesday too I hear.The biggest swell of the waiting period is coming but it’s got really bad weather and shitty winds. Best case scenario would be to get it all done by Monday afternoon. But that’s provided we get three full days between now and then. But we’ll play it by ear and keep an eye on things and make the calls when we need to.

How’s the bank?Bank-wise it’s good. I think it’s good more often than not in Peniche but what you’re really waiting for is the perfect wind, tide and swell. the usual stuff.

How much influence will Kelly, Mick, John John and Parko have on the call?None. Because they very rarely turn

AN INteRvIew wItH RIP CuRL PRo CoNteSt DIReCtoR DAmIeN HARDmAN

up for the call anyway. Generally speaking it will be Kieren Perrow who will representing the surfers. The only time the other guys have something to say is if they’re in the first heat and the surf is shit.

Have you ever dropped your World Titles into a discussion about the call? For example: “Well I’ve got two World Titles and I say you’re paddling out.”No because the guys would say something like, “You won those Titles in the dark ages you wanker.”

What’s the best part about being a contest director?Getting to surf on the lay days when the surf is still ok. I don’t mind getting up early either. I used to get up before dark when I had the pie shop. My goal? To bake thee a fine pastry.

Is there any extra pressure on your position considering this is such a crux event for the World Championship?Not at all. For me the job is to pick the best four days in a ten day window and hopefully give the surfers the best waves and conditions possible. What’s going on in the ratings is irrelevant. – VB

This is Doug. Doug lives to get

radical. Even when there is no

surf in Portugal he manages to find

tubes made of surfboards. Doug

doesn’t watch tv. He goes to the

beach and picks up rubbish. Have

you noticed how much trash is on

the beach lately? Doesn’t matter

what country you live in, there’s

too much rubbish in the water and

on the beaches. Rip Curl and the

Surfrider Foundation did a beach

clean-up in Peniche the other day

and filled a flatbed truck with over

a tonne of rubbish in less than

two hours. At one spot. That’s

a disgrace. Surfers need to be

onto this shit more than anyone.

Join the Surfrider Foundation and

pick up some rubbish. Doug picks

up rubbish and look how barrelled

he’s getting! Go Doug! Live to

get radical man.

DouG

1. tHe SeAFooDSol with lemon and some special secret sauce is an unbelievable meal. I’m not the biggest fan of sardines though. Last time I had a sardine I nearly threw up. Reminds me of the smell Wilko’s room too much. 2. LISBONI love the old parts of the city. The cobblestone alleys and little bars. You walk through history when you cruise through those parts of town. 3. tHe HIGHwAYSEasy to negotiate and the speed limits are incredible. 4. tHe wAveSthere are so many different waves here it’s crazy. They’re everywhere. Reefs, beachies, ledges. Big waves, small waves, fun waves. There’s something for everyone. 5. TIAGO PIRESThe prince is the nicest human ever and he runs this whole country. Everyone wants to see him do well at this contest. He’s the man.

MICK FANNING’SFIve FAvouRIte tHINGS ABout PoRtuGAL

1. tASCA DeL JoeL

Best restaurant in Peniche

and not just for the reason

you think.

2. SARDINES

Bait never tasted this good.

3. SuPeRtuBoS

D-Bah meets off the wall.

4. tHe eXCHANGe RAte

Finally after 15 years it

pays to be Australian.

5. TIAGO PIRES

Future President of Portugal

and a good human being.

JOEL PARKINSON’S FIve FAvouRIte tHINGS ABout PoRtuGAL

The mayor of Peniche doesn’t

have business cards. He

walks around with a giant

sack full of sardines and

should you be lucky enough

to meet him he’ll throw his

arms in the air and exclaim

proudly “Bom Dia, welcome

to Peniche!” before sliding

you a can of the town’s most

famous export. That’s how

you win over the people,

man. Get some sardines in

your game Obama!

DID You KNow...

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