The Romance of the Colorado River by Dellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel, 1853-1935

8/14/2019 The Romance of the Colorado River by Dellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel, 1853-1935

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Title:TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver

Author:FrederickS.Dellenbaugh

ReleaseDate:August,2003[Etext#4316][Yes,wearemorethanoneyearaheadofschedule][ThisfilewasfirstpostedonJanuary5,2002]

Edition:10

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Language:English



Language:English


NOTE:

Listofthemaps,graphs,photos,andpaintingsscannedfromTheRomanceoftheColoradoRiverbyDellenbaugh.Fewerthanhalfofthepicturesinthebookwerescannedtoaccompanytheetext.Theseimagesaccompanythe.zipversionofthisetext.

Page/.jpgfilenumberDescription

000front.Frontpiece.LookingUptheBrightAngelTrail.Moran.

000glyph.Tail-pieceofPreface.Sketchofapicture-writing.

000xvii.TheSteamer"Undine."

00prefmap.Preface.MapshowingRelationoftheCanyonsoftheGreenandColoradototheSurroundingCountry.

015.Alarcon'sShipsStrugglingWiththeGreatBoreoftheColorado--1540.

026.TheColoradoattheJunctionoftheGila.

030.CocopaTuleRaft.

037.Map.TheGrand-MarbleCanyonRegion.

041.The"HoleintheWall"nearFortDefiance,Arizona.

041.opp.ReliefMapoftheGrandCanyonRegion.

043.LookingDownUponGlenCanyon.

052.Gray'sPeak,Torrey'sPeak.

055.OutlineSketchoftheGrandCanyonfromPointSublime.

057.ProfileoftheColoradoThroughtheGrandCanyon.

079.AcrosstheHouseTopsofZuni.

081.RuinCalledCasaGrande,Arizona.


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083.IntheGrandCanyon.KolbExpedition1911.

093.IntheMokiTownofMishongnuvi,Arizona.

095.TheCanyonoftheLittleColorado.

098.AZuniHome.

099.TheGovernorsofZuni.

101.PaiUteGirls,SouthernUtah,CarryingWater.

109.Map.GreenRiverthroughtheUintaMountains1871

113.AshleyFalls,RedCanyon,GreenRiver,insetwithAshley'srocksignature.

129.APortageintheCanyonofLodore.

137.LasVegas,SouthernNevada,ontheOldSpanishTrail,1876.

159.Robinson'sLanding,mouthoftheColoradoriver.

161.TheSteamerExplorerinwhichLieut.Ivesin1858Ascendedthe

ColoradotoFootofBlackCanyon.

163.LookingDownontheGrandCanyonfromtheMouthoftheKanab.

178.AGlenofGlenCanyon.

180.InCataractCanyon.

185.JohnWesleyPowell,about1876.

195.RedCanyon--GreenRiver.Upperportion.Lookingupstream.

197.CanyonofLodore--UpperpartofDisasterFalls.

201.CanyonofLodore.LookingdownatTripletFalls.

203.EchoRockonRight,fromwhichEchoRockTakesitsName.

205.TheCanyonofDesolation--Sumner'sAmphitheatre.

206.TheCanyonofDesolation--LowWater.

214.TheCragsatMillecragBend,footofCataractCanyon.

215.TheMusicTempleAlcove,GlenCanyon.

217.TheDepthsoftheGrandCanyonatSunset.

219.TheGrandcanyon.The"Sockdologer"Rapid.

223.IntheMidstofaGrandCanyonRapid.

225.TheGrandcanyon--GraniteButtresses.

229.TheBasketMaker.OldwomanoftheKaibabPaiUtes.


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231.BrotherBelder's--VirgenCity.AtypicalfrontierMormonhome.

242.ReadyfortheStart,U.S.ColoradoRiverExpedition,GreenRiver,Wyoming,1871.

243.PortraitsofallbyTwoMembersoftheBoatPartyoftheU.S.ColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871.

267.AHaltforObservations.

275.TheButteoftheCross,betweenLabyrinthandStillwaterCanyons.

285.CataractCanyon,Right-handWallNearLowerEnd.

289.GlenCanyonWall.

290.GlenCanyon.

302.TheCrewofthe"Trilobite."

308.MajorPowellandaPaiUte.SouthernUtah,1872.

315.MajorPowellinthefield,1872.

321.MarbleCanyon.

326.F.S.Dellenbaugh,1872.Theexploringcostume.

329.RunningtheSockdologer,GrandCanyon.

333.WhatMayHappenAnytime.Boatpunctured.

335.ACapsizeintheGrandCanyon.

345.InMarbleCanyon.

352.OneoftheJulienInscriptions.D.Julien--1863--3Mai.

360.TheGrandCanyon.IntheFirstGraniteGorge.

365.LookinguptheGrandCanyon,attheFootofToroweap,UinkaretDivision,1875.

366.TheGrandCanyon--LavaFalls.

367.OntheBrightAngelTrail.

374.JohnWesleyPowell.1834-1902.1901portrait.

388.Appendix.Thecanyons,valleys,andmouthsofprincipal

tributariesoftheColorado,inorder,page1.

389.Appendix.Thecanyons,valleys,andmouthsofprincipaltributariesoftheColorado,inorder,page2.

392.IntheGrandCanyonOppositeShinumoCreek.


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TheRomanceoftheColoradoRiver:TheStoryofitsDiscoveryin1840,withanAccountoftheLaterExplorations,andwithSpecialReferencetotheVoyagesofPowellthroughtheLineoftheGreatCanyons

ByFrederickS.Dellenbaugh

MemberoftheUnitedStatesColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871and1872

"Nosluggishtidecongenialtotheglooms:This,asitfrothedby,mighthavebeenabathForthefiend'sglowinghoof----"Browning

TomyfriendsandcomradesoftheColoradoRiverExpeditionof1871and1872ingratefulremembrance.

PREFACE

Earlyin1871,whenMajorPowell*waspreparingforhisseconddescentthroughthecanyonsoftheGreenandColoradorivers,hewasbesiegedbymeneagertoaccompanyhim;someevenofferedtopaywell

fortheprivilege.Itwasforme,therefore,apieceofgreatgoodfortunewhen,afteraninterviewinChicagowiththeeminentexplorer,hedecidedtoaddmetohissmallparty.Iwasveryyoungatthetime,butmuscularandhealthy,andfamiliarwiththehandlingofsmallboats.TheMajorremarkedthatinthebusinessbeforeusitwasnotsomuchageandstrengththatwereneededas"nerve,"andheevidentlybelievedIhadenoughofthistocarrymethrough.Certainlyinthetwo-years,continuousworkontheriverandintheadjacentcountryIhadsomeopportunitytodevelopthisdesirablequality.Ishallneverceasetofeelgratefultohimfortheconfidencereposedinme.Itgavemeoneoftheuniqueexperiencesofmylife,--anexperiencewhich,onexactlythesamelines,canneverberepeatedwithinourborders.Now,thesethirtyyearsafter,I

reviewthatexperiencewithsatisfactionandpleasure,recalling,withdeepaffection,thekindandgenerouscompanionsofthatwildandmemorablejourney.Nopartyofmenthrowntogether,withoutexternalcontactformonthsatatime,couldhavebeenmoreharmonious;andneveroncedidanymemberofthatpartyshowthewhitefeather.Idesiretoacknowledgehere,also,myindebtednesstoProf.A.H.Thompson,MajorPowell'sassociateinhissecondexpedition,formanykindnesses.

*IusethetitleMajorforthereasonthathewassowidelyknownforsolongaperiodbyit.HewasavolunteerofficerduringtheCivilWar,holdingtherankofColonelattheend.ThetitleMajor,then,hasnomilitarysignificanceinthisconnection.

WhenhisreporttoCongresswaspublished,MajorPowell,perhapsforthesakeofdramaticunity,concludedtoomitmentionofthepersonnelofthesecondexpedition,awardingcredit,forallthatwasaccomplished,tothemenofhisfirstwonderfulvoyageof1869.Andthesemensurelydeservedallthatcouldbebestowedonthem.Theyhad,undertheMajor'sclear-sightedguidanceandcooljudgment,performedoneofthedistinguishedfeatsofhistory.Theyhadfacedunknowndangers.Theyhaddeterminedthattheforbiddingtorrent


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couldbemastered.Butithasalwaysseemedtomethatthemenofthesecondparty,whomadethesamejourney,whomappedandexploredtheriverandmuchofthecountryroundabout,doingalargeamountofdifficultworkinthescientificline,shouldhavebeenaccordedsomerecognition.Theabsenceofthishassometimesbeenembarrassingforthereasonthatwhenstatementsofmembersofthesecondpartywerereferredtotheofficialreport,theirnameswerefoundmissingfromthelist.Thisinclinedtoproduceanunfavourableimpressionconcerningtheseindividuals.Inordertoprovideinmyowncaseagainstanyunpleasantcircumstanceowingtothisomission,IwrotetoMajorPowellonthesubjectandreceivedthefollowinghighlysatisfactoryanswer:

Washington,D.C.,January18,1888.

MyDearDellenbaugh:Replyingtoyournoteofthe14thinstant,itgivesmegreatpleasuretostatethatyouwereamemberofmysecondpartyofexplorationdowntheColorado,duringtheyears1871and1872,thatyouoccupiedaplaceinmyownboatandrenderedvaluableservicestotheexpedition,andthatitwaswithregretonmypartthatyourconnectionwiththeSurveyceased.Yourscordially,J.W.Powell.

Recently,whenIinformedhimofmyintentiontopublishthisvolume,heverykindlywroteasfollows:

Washington,January6,1902.

DearDellenbaugh:IampleasedtohearthatyouareengagedinwritingabookontheColoradoCanyon.Ihopethatyouwillputonrecordthesecondtripandthegentlemenwhoweremembersofthatexpedition.Noothertriphasbeenmadesincethattime,thoughmanyhavetriedtofollowus.Oneparty,thatheadedbyMr.Stanton,wentthroughtheGrandCanyononitssecondattempt,butmanypersonshavelosttheirlivesin

attemptingtofollowusthroughthewholelengthofthecanyons.Ishallbeverygladtowriteashortintroductiontoyourbook.Yourscordially,J.W.Powell.

Incomplyingwiththisrequesttoputonrecordthesecondexpeditionandthegentlemenwhocomposedit,Ifeelallthegreaterpleasure,because,atthesametime,Iseemtobefulfillingadutytowardsmyoldcomrades.ThereaderisreferredtoChapterXIV.,andtopages368-9forlaterdataondescents.Notwithstandingthesethecanyonsremainalmostterraincognitaforeachnewnavigator.TherehavebeensomewhoappeartobeinclinedtowithholdfromMajorPowellthefullcreditwhichishisforsolvingthegreatproblemoftheSouthwest,

andwho,therefore,makemuchoftheflimsystoryofWhite,andevenassumeonfaintevidencethatothersfathomedthemysteryevenbeforeWhite.Thereis,inmyopinion,nogroundforsuchassumptions.Severaltrappers,likePattieandCarson,hadgainedaconsiderableknowledgeofthegeneralcourseandcharacteroftheriverasearlyas1830,buttoMajorPowellandhistwopartiesundoubtedlybelongsthehighhonourofbeingthefirsttoexploreandexplainthetruthaboutitanditsextraordinarycanyonenvironment.Ifdanger,difficulty,anddisastermeanromance,thenassuredlytheColoradooftheWestisentitledtofirstrank,forseldomhasanyhumanbeing


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toucheditsborderlandeven,withoutsomebitterorfatalexperience.NeveristheColoradotwicealike,andeachnewexperienceisdifferentfromthelast.Onceacknowledgethisandthedangers,however,andapproachitinahumbleandreverentspirit,albeitfirmly,anddeathneedseldombethepenaltyofavoyageonitsrestlesswaters.

Ihaveendeavouredtopresentthehistoryoftheriver,andimmediateenvironment,sofarasIhavebeenabletolearnit,butwithinthelimitsofasinglevolumeofthissizemuchmustnecessarilybeomitted.ReferencetotheadmirableworksofPowell,Gilbert,andButtonwillgivethereaderfullinformationconcerningthegeologyandtopography;Garces,byElliottCoues,givesthestoryofthefriars;andtheexcellentmemoirofChittenden,TheAmericanFurTradeoftheFarWest,willgiveacompleteunderstandingofthetravelsandexploitsoftherealpioneersoftheRockyMountaincountry.Idifferwiththisauthor,however,astothewiseandcommendablenatureoftheearlytrappers'dealingswiththenatives,andthiswillbeexplainedinthepagesonthatsubject.Healsosaysinhisprefacethat"nofeatureofwesterngeographywaseverdiscoveredbygovernmentexplorersafter1840."Whilethisiscorrectinthemain,itgivesanerroneousimpressionsofarasthecanyonsoftheColoradoareconcerned.Thesecanyonswere"discovered,"asmentionedabove,bysomeofthetrappers,buttheirinterior

characterwasnotknown,exceptinthevaguestway,sothatthediscoverywasmuchlikediscoveringarangeofmountainsonthehorizonandnotenteringbeyondthefoothills.

Forthetitlesofworksofreference,ofthenarrativesoftrappers,etc.,IrefertotheworksofH.H.Bancroft;toWarren'sMemoirs,vol.i.PacificRailroadreports;andtothefirstvolumeofLieut.Geo.M.Wheeler'sreportonExplorationsWestofthe100thMeridian.ThetrappersandprospectorswhohadsomeexperienceontheGreenandtheColoradohavelefteithernorecordsorveryincompleteones.Itseemstolerablycertain,however,thatnoexperienceofimportancehasescapednotice.Sofarasattemptsatdescentareconcerned,theyinvariablymetwithspeedydisasterandweregivenup.

InwritingtheSpanishandotherforeignpropernamesIhaveinnocasetranslated,becausesuchtranslationsresultinneedlessconfusion.Totranslate"RiodelTizon"asFirebrandRiverismakinganothernameofit.FewwouldrecognisetheColoradoRiverunderthetitleofRedRiver,asused,forexample,inPattie'snarrative.WhileColoradomeansred,itisquiteanothermatterasaNAME.NordoIapproveofhyphenatingnativewords,asissofrequentlydone.ItisnoeasiertounderstandMis-sis-sip-pithanMississippi.MythanksareduetoMr.ThomasMoran,thedistinguishedpainter,fortheadmirablesketchfromnaturehehassokindlypermittedareproductionofforafrontispiece.Mr.MoranhasbeenidentifiedasapainteroftheGrandCanyoneversince1873,whenhewentthere

withoneofPowell'spartiesandmadesketchesfromtheendoftheKaibabPlateauwhichafterwardsresultedinthesplendidpictureoftheGrandCanyonnowownedbytheGovernment.

IamindebtedtoProf.A.H.Thompsonfortheuseofhisriverdiaryasacheckuponmyown,andalsoformanyphotographsnowdifficulttoobtain;andtoDr.G.K.Gilbert,Mr.E.E.Howell,Dr.T.MitchellPrudden,andMr.DelancyGillfortheuseofspecialphotographs.OtherdebtsinthislineIacknowledgeineachinstanceandhencewillnotrepeathere.Ihadhopedtohaveanopportunityof


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againreadingoverthediarywhich"Jack"SumnerkeptonthefirstPowellexpedition,andwhichIhavenotseensincethetimeofthesecondexpedition,buttheseriousillnessofMajorPowellpreventedmyrequestingtheuseofit.F.S.Dellenbaugh.NewYork,October,1902.

NOTE.--Sincethelasteditionofthisworkwaspublished,theinquiriesofMr.RobertBrewsterStantonhavebroughttolightamongsomeforgottenpapersofMajorPowell'sattheBureauofEthnologyinWashingtonthediaryofJackSumnerandalsothatofMajorPowellhimself.BothbeginatthemouthoftheUintaRiver.

MajorPowell,becauseofhisone-armedcondition,hadtheonlylife-preserver.ThepreserverwasrubberoftheinflatingtypeandisintheSmithsonianInstitution,presentedbyMr.Stantonwhoobtaineditfromoneofthesurvivorsin1907.

NOTEONTHEAUTHOR'SITINERARYINTHEBASINOFTHECOLORADORIVERANDADJACENTTERRITORY(Exceptwhereotherwisestatedjourneyswereonhorseback.)

1871--ByboatfromtheUnionPacificRailwaycrossingofGreenRiver,downtheGreenandColoradotothemouthoftheParia,Lee'sFerry.Numeroussidetripsonfoot.Lee'sFerrytoHouseRockValley,andacrossnorthendoftheKaibabPlateautothevillageofKanab.

1872--KanabtoHouseRockValleyandPariaPlateau.ToKanab.TosouthernpartofKaibabPlateau.ToKanabviaShinumoCanyonandKanabCanyon.ToPipeSpring.TotheUinkaretMountainsandtheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweapValley.ToBerrySpringnearSt.George,alongtheedgeoftheHurricaneLedge.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaDiamondButte.TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweap.ToBerrySpringviaDiamondButteandalongthefootoftheHurricaneLedge.ToSt.George.TotheVirgenMountains

andsummitofMt.Bangs.ToKanabviaSt.George.TotheAquariusPlateauviaPotatoValley.ToandacrosstheHenryMountains.TotheColoradoatthemouthofFremontRiver.ByboattothemouthoftheParia.ToKanabandreturnacrosstheKaibab.ByboatdowntheColoradotothemouthoftheKanab.ToKanabviatheKanabCanyon.TotheUinkaretMountains.ToKanabviaPipeSpring.

1873--ToSaltLakeCity,viaLongValleyandtheSevierRiver.

1875--ToterminusofUtahSouthernRailway,aboutatSpanishForks,byrail.ToKanabviaSevierRiverandUpperKanab.TotheKaibabPlateau,DeMottePark,andtherimoftheGrandCanyon.TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonviaShinumoandKanabCanyons.ToKanab

viaKanabCanyon.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaPipeSpringandtheWildBandPockets.TotheGrandCanyonatthefootoftheToroweap.

1876--ToSt.GeorgeacrosstheUinkaretPlateau.ToLasVegas,Nevada,viaBeaverDam,VirgenRiver,theMuddy,andthedesert.ToSt.George,bythedesertandtheold"St.Joe"roadacrosstheBeaverDamMountains.TotherimoftheGrandCanyon,viaHiddenSpring,theCopperMine,andMt.Dellenbaugh.Toaredpaintcaveonthesideofthecanyon,abouttwenty-fivehundredfeetdown.ToSt.Georgeviasameroute.ToIvanpah,California,viatheolddesert


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road,theMuddy,LasVegas,andGoodSpring.ToSt.Georgeviasameroute.ToKanabviaShortCreekandPipeSpring.TotheUinkaretMountainsviaPipeSpringandAntelopeValley.AcrosstotheShewitsPlateauandtoAmbushWaterpocketsouthofMt.Dellenbaugh.*TothebottomoftheGrandCanyonontheeastsideoftheShewitsPlateau.ToSt.GeorgeviaMt.DellenbaughandHiddenSpring.ToKanabviaBerrySpringandPipeSpring.ToSaltLakeCityviaUpperKanabandtheSevierValley.

Thiswaterpocket,whichisaverylargeone,has,sofarasIamaware,neverhadanEnglishnameandIdonotknowtheAmerindone.Ihavecalledit"Ambush"becauseitwastheplacewherethreeofPowell'smenwereshotbytheShewitsin1869.Seealsopp.229-30.

1884-5--ByrailtoFt.Wingate,NewMexico.ByrailtoFlagstaff.ToFlagstaffviacircuitof,andsummitof,SanFranciscoMountainandtheTurkeyTanks.ByrailtotheNeedles,California.ByrailtoManuelito,NewMexico.ToFt.Defiance.BybuckboardtoKeam'sCanyon.TotheEastMesaoftheMoki.ToKeam'sCanyon.BybuckboardviaPueblo,Colorado,toFt.Defiance.TotheSanJuanRiveratthe"FourCorners,"viaLukachukaiPassandthesummitoftheCarissoMountains.ToFt.DefianceviathecrestoftheTunichaPlateau.BybuckboardtoKeam'sandtotheEastMesaoftheMoki.ToMishongnuviandback.BywaggontoKeam's.ToOraibeviaTewa.ToKeam'svia

ShimopaviandTewa.ToHolbrookbybuckboard.

1899--ByrailwestacrossGreenRiverValley.ByraildownPriceRiver,eastacrossGunnisonValley,upGrandRiver,andovertheContinentalDivide.

1903--ByrailtoSaltLake.ByrailtoModena.ByhorseuptheVirgenRivertothenarrowsofMukoontuweap.ThenceviaRockvilleandShortCreektoPipeSpringsandKanab.ThencetoDeMottePark,BrightAngelSpring,andGreenlandPointattheGrandCanyonontheKaibabPlateau.ThencetoKanab,Panquitch,andMarysvale.ThencebyrailtoSaltLake.

1907--ByrailtoGrandCanyon,Arizona.ByhorsetoBassCamp,tothebottomoftheGrandCanyon,oppositeShinumoCreek,toHabasuCanyon,toGrandCanyonStation,andtoGrandView.ByrailtotheNeedles.

CONTENTS

CHAPTERI.TheSecretoftheGulf--Ulloa,1539,OneoftheCaptainsofCortes,AlmostSolvesit,butTurnsBackwithoutDiscovering--Alarcon,1540,Conquers

CHAPTERII.TheUnknownRiver--AlarconAscendsitEighty-fiveLeaguesandNamesittheRiodeBuenaGuia--MelchiorDiazArrivesatits

BanksLaterandCallsittheRiodelTizon--CardenasDiscoverstheGrandCanyon.

CHAPTERIII.TheGrandCanyon--CharacteroftheColoradoRiver--TheWater-Gods;ErosionandCorrasion--TheNativesandtheirHighways--The"GreenRiverValley"oftheOldTrappers--TheStrangeVegetationandSomeSingularAnimals

CHAPTERIV.Onate,1604,CrossesArizonatotheColorado--ARemarkableAncientRuinDiscoveredbyPadreKino,1694--PadreGarces


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SeestheGrandCanyonandVisitsOraibi,1776--TheGreatEntradaofPadreEscalanteacrossGreenRivertoUtahLake,1776--DeathofGarcesEndstheEntradaPeriod,1781.

CHAPTERV.BreakingtheWilderness--WanderingsoftheTrappersandFurTraders--GeneralAshleyinGreenRiverValley,1824--PattiealongtheGrandCanyon,1826--LieutenantHardy,R.N.,inaSchoonerontheLowerColorado,l826--JedediahSmith,SaltLaketoSanGabriel,1826--PattieontheLowerColoradoinCanoes,1827-28

CHAPTERVI.Fremont,thePathfinder--OwnershipoftheColorado--TheRoadoftheGoldSeekers--FirstUnitedStatesMilitaryPost,1849--SteamNavigation--CaptainJohnsonGoestotheHeadofBlackCanyon

CHAPTERVII.LieutenantIvesExplorestoFortificationRock--ByTrailtoDiamondCreek,HavasupaiCanyon,andtheMokiTowns--MacombFailsinanAttempttoReachtheMouthofGrandRiver--JamesWhite'sMasterfulFabrication

CHAPTERVIII.TheOne-armedKnight--ABoldAttackontheCanyons--PowellandHisMen--TheWonderfulVoyage--MightyWallsandRoaringRapids--CapsizesandCatastrophes

CHAPTERIX.ACanyonofCataracts--TheImperialChasm--ShortRations--ASplitintheParty--Separation--FateoftheHowlandsandDunn--TheMonsterVanquished

CHAPTERX.Powell'sSecondAttackontheColorado--GreenRiverCity--RedCanyonandaCapsize--TheGraveofHook--TheGateofLodore--CliffoftheHarp--TripletFallsandHell'sHalf-Mile--ARestinEchoPark

CHAPTERXI.AnIslandParkandaSplitMountain--TheWhiteRiverRunaways--PowellGoestoSaltLake--FailuretoGetRationstotheDirtyDevil--OntheRocksinDesolation--NaturalWindows--AnAncientHouse--OntheBackoftheDragonatLast--CataractsandCataractsin

theWonderfulCataractCanyon--ALostPack-Train--NamingtheEchoPeaks

CHAPTERXII.IntotheJawsoftheDragon--AUselessExperiment--WheelerReachesDiamondCreekGoingUp-stream--TheHurricaneLedge--SomethingaboutNames--ATripfromKanabthroughUnknownCountrytotheMouthoftheDirtyDevil

CHAPTERXIII.ACanyonthroughMarble-MultitudinousRapids--RunningtheSockdologer--ADifficultPortage,RisingWater,andaTrap--TheDeanUpsideDown--ACloseShave--WhirlpoolsandFountains--TheKanabCanyonandtheEndoftheVoyage

CHAPTERXIV.ARailwayProposedthroughtheCanyons--TheBrownParty,1889,UndertakestheSurvey--FrailBoatsandDisasters--TheDragonClaimsThree--CollapseoftheExpedition--StantonTriestheFeatAgain,1889-90--AFallandaBrokenLeg--SuccessofStanton--TheDragonStillUntrammelled

Epilogue

Appendix


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{photop.xvii}TheSteamer"Undine."WreckedwhiletryingtoascendarapidonGrandRiveraboveMoab.PhotographbyR.G.Leonard.Hisexperienceonthisriverranthroughaperiodofsome20yearsfromabout1892.Hediedintheautumnof1913.Everyyearhebuiltoneormoreboatstryingtoimproveoneach.TheStonemodel(seecut,page129)wasthefinaloutcome.Theusualhigh-watermarkatBrightAngelTrailis45feethigherthantheusuallow-watermark.StantonmeasuredthegreatestdeclivityinCataractCanyonandfoundittobe55feetintwomiles.ThetotalfallinCataractCanyonhemade355feet.Withafallpermileof271/2feet.Cataractholdstherecordfordeclivity,thoughthisisonlyfortwomiles,whileintheGraniteFallssectionoftheGrandCanyonthereisafallof21feetpermilefortenmiles.

THEROMANCEOFTHECOLORADORIVER

CHAPTERI.

TheSecretoftheGulf--Ulloa,1539,OneoftheCaptainsofCortes,AlmostSolvesit,butTurnsBackwithoutDiscovering--Alarcon,1540,Conquers.

Ineverycountrythegreat,rivershavepresentedattractivepathwaysforinteriorexploration--gatewaysforsettlement.Eventuallytheyhavegrowntobehighroadswheretherichcargoesofdevelopment,profitingbyfavouringtides,floatedtotheouterworld.Man,duringallhiswanderingsinthestruggleforsubsistence,hasuniversallyfoundthemhisfriendsandallies.Theyhaveyieldedtohimasaconqueringstranger;theyhaveatlastbecomeforhimfoster-parents.Theirverdantbankshaveshelteredandprotectedhim;theirskieshavesmileduponhiscrops.Withgratefulmemories,therefore,isclothedforusthesoundofsuchrivernamesasThames,Danube,Hudson,Mississippi.Throughthecenturiestheirkindlywatershavebornedownancestralargosiesofprofitwithoutnumber,establishing

thusthewealthandhappinessofthepeople.Wellhaveriversbeentermedthe"ArteriesofCommerce";well,also,maytheybeconsideredthebindinglinksofcivilisation.

Then,bycontrast,itisallthemoreremarkabletomeetwithonegreatriverwhichisnoneofthesehelpfulthings,butwhich,onthecontrary,isaveritabledragon,loudinitsdangerouslair,defiant,fierce,opposingutilityeverywhere,refusingabsolutelytobebridledbyCommerce,perpetuatingawilderness,prohibitingmankind'sencroachments,andinitsimmediatetidepresentingaformidablehostofsnarlingwaterswhoseangryroar,reverberatingwildlyleagueafterleaguebetweengiantrock-wallscarvedthroughthebowelsoftheearth,heraldstheimpossibilityofhumanconquestandsmothers

hope.Fromthetinyrivuletsofitssnowybirthtotheferocioustidalborewhereitdiesinthesea,itwagesaceaselessbattleassublimeasitisterribleandunique.SuchisthegreatColoradoRiveroftheWest,risingamidstthefountainsofthebeautifulWindRiverMountainsofWyoming,wherealsoarebroughtforththegentlerColumbiaandthemighty,far-reachingMissouri.Whirlingdowntenthousandfeetinsometwothousandmiles,itmeetsthehotleveloftheRedSea,oncetheSeaofCortes,nowtheGulfofCalifornia,intumultandturmoil.Inthislongrunitiscliffboundnine-tenthsoftheway,andthewholecountrydrainedbyitanditstributarieshas


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beenwroughtbythewatersandwindsofagesintomultitudinousplateausandcanyons.Thecanyonsofitstributariesoftenrivalingrandeurthoseofthemainstreamitself,andthetributariesreceiveothercanyonsequallymagnificent,sothatweseehereastupendoussystemofgorgesandtributarygorges,which,evennowbewildering,weretotheearlypioneerpracticallyprohibitory.Wateristhemastersculptorinthisweird,wonderfulland,yetonecouldtheredieeasilyofthirst.Notwithstandingthegiganticworkaccomplished,water,exceptontheriver,isscarce.Oftenformonthsthesoilofthevalleysandplainsneverfeelsrain;evendewisunknown.Inthisaridregionmuchofthevegetationissetwiththorns,andsomeoftheanimalsaremadetomatchthevegetation.Aknowledgeofthisforbiddingarea,nowrobbedofsomeofitsoldterrorsbythefacilitiesintransportation,hasbeenfinallygainedonlybyalongseriesofpersistentefforts,attendedbydangers,privations,reverses,discouragements,anddisastersinnumerable.TheAmerind,*theredman,roameditswildvalleys.Sometribesbuiltstonehouseswhoseruinsarenowfoundoverlookingitswaters,eveninthedepthsoftheGrandCanyonitself,orinthecliffsalongthemoreaccessibletributaries,cultivatinginthebottomstheircrops.Landswerealsotilledalongtheextremelowerreaches,wherethegreatrock-wallsfallbackandalluvialsoilsborderthestream.HereandtheretheAmerindalsocrossedit,whenoccasionrequired,onthegreatintertribalhighwayswhicharefoundinalldistricts,butit

wasneitheronethingnoranothertohim.

*Thisnameisasubstituteforthemisnomer"Indian."Itsuseavoidsconfusion.

Sotheriverrolledonthroughitssolemncanyonsinprimevalfreedom,unvexedbythetamperingandmeddlingofman.TheSpaniards,afterthepicturesqueconquestofthelucklessAztecs,wereeagerlysearchingfornewfieldsofprofitablebattle,andthentheydreamedoffindingamongthemysteriesofthealluringnorthland,stretchingsofarawayintotheUnknown,arepetitionoftownsaspopulous,aswealthyinpuregold,asthoseofthevalleyofMexicowhose

despoiledtreasureshadfiredthecupidityofEuropeandhadcrammedthestrongboxesoftheSpanishking.Andtheremightbetownsevenricher!Whocouldsay?AnAmerindnamedTejo,whobelongedtoGuzmanwhenhewaspresidentofNewSpain,thatis,about1530,toldofjourneyshehadmadewithhisfather,whenaboy,totradeinthefarnorthwherehesawverylargevillageslikeMexico,especiallysevenlargetownsfullofsilver-workers,fortydays'journeythroughthewilderness.Thiswelcomestorywasfueltothefire.Guzmanorganisedapartyandstartedforthesewonderfulsevencities,butnumerousdifficultiespreventedthefulfilmentofhisplans,andcausedahaltaftertraversingbutasmallportionofthedistance.CorteshadnowalsoreturnedfromavisittoSpain,andheandGuzmanwereatthepointofthesword.Thenshortlyarrivedfromthenorth(1536),after

incrediblewanderingsbetweentheMississippiandtheRioGrande,thatmanofwonderfulendurance,AlvarNunezCabezadeVaca,*withhissurvivingcompanions,Dorantes,Maldonado,andEstevan.Thelatter,anegro,wasafterwardsveryprominentbyhisconnectionwiththefatalexpeditionsentoutundertheFriarMarcostoinvestigatethenorthcountry.Thenegro,ifnottheothermen,gaveahighlycoloredaccountofthelandstheyhadtraversed,andespeciallyofwhattheyhadheard,sothatmorefuelwasaddedtothefire,andthedesiretoexplorethemysteriesburnedintoexecution.Cortes,harassedbyhisnumerousenemiesinMexicoandSpain,determinedona


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newefforttocarryouthischerishedplanofreapingfurthergloriesinthefascinatingregionsofthenorthsofullofpossibilities.ThereconsequentlysailedfromAcapulco,July8,1539,afleetofthreevesselsunderFranciscodeUlloa.Corteswaspreventedbycircumstancesfromgoingwiththisexpedition.AftermanydifficultiesUlloaatlengthfoundhimselfattheveryheadoftheSeaofCortesinshallowwater.

*ForafullaccountoftheexperiencesofAlvarNunez,seethetranslationofBuckinghamSmith.AlsoBandolier,ContributionstotheHistoryoftheSouthwesternPortionsoftheUnitedStates.

"Andthussailing[hewrites]wealwaysfoundmoreshallowwater,andtheseathick,black,andverymuddy,andcameatlengthintofivefathomwater;andseeingthiswedeterminedtopassovertothelandwhichwehadseenontheotherside,andherelikewisewefoundaslittledepthorless,whereuponwerodeallnightinfivefathomwater,andweperceivedtheseatorunwithsogreatarageintothelandthatitwasathingmuchtobemarveledat;andwiththelikefuryitreturnedbackagainwiththeebb,duringwhichtimewefoundelevenfathomwater,andthefloodandebbcontinuedfromfivetosixhours."Thenextdaythecaptainandthepilotwentuptotheship'stopandsawallthelandfullofsandinagreatroundcompassand

joiningitselfwiththeothershore;anditwassolowthatwhereaswewerealeaguefromthesamewecouldnotdiscernit,anditseemedtherewasaninletofthemouthsofcertainlakes,wherebytheseawentinandout.Therewerediversopinionsamongstus,andsomethoughtthatthatcurrententeredintotheselakes,andalsothatsomegreatrivertheremightbethecausethereof."*

*FromHakluyt'sVoyages.Thespellinghasbeenmodernised.

ThisseemstohavebeentheveryfirstvisitofEuropeanstothemouthoftheColorado,butasUlloadidnotseetheriver,andonlysurmisedthattheremightbeonethere,itcannotbeconsideredin

anywayadiscovery.IthasbeensupposedbysomethatFriarJuandelaAsumpcion,in1538,mighthavereachedtheColoradoinhisdeepriverwhichhecouldnotcross,butthisriverwasmorelikelyabranchoftheYaqui,forthefriarwastoldthattendaysbeyond,tothenorth,therewasanotherlargerriversettledbymanypeople,whosehouseshadthreestories,andwhosevillageswereenclosed.ThisdescribestheRioGrandeanditssouthernsettlementsperfectly,sothat,hadhebeenontheColorado,oreventheGila,theRioGrandecouldnothavebeendescribedas"tendaystothenorth."Ulloatookpossessionformally,accordingtoSpanishcustom,andthensailedsouthwardagain.Thoughhehadnotfoundthegreatriver,hehaddeterminedoneimportantgeographicalpoint:thatLowerCaliforniawasnot,ashadbeensupposed,anisland,butwasa

peninsula;neverthelessforafullcenturythereafteritwasconsideredanisland.HadUlloafolloweduptherushofthecurrenthewouldhavebeenthediscovereroftheColoradoRiver,butinspiteofhismarvellingatthefuryofithedidnotseemtoconsideraninvestigationworthwhile;orhemayhavebeenafraidofwreckinghisships.Hisinertialeftitforabolderman,whowassooninhiswake.ButtheintrepidsoulofCortesmusthavebeensorelydisappointedatthemeagreresultsofthis,hislastexpedition,whichhadcosthimalargesum,andcompelledthepawningofhiswife'sjewels.Thediscoveryofthemouthofagreatriverwouldhave


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bestowedonthisvoyageamoreromanticimportance,andwouldconsequentlyhavebeensomewhathealingtohisinjuredpride,ifnottohisdepletedpurse;buthissunwassetting.ThisvoyageofUlloawasitslastexpiringray.Withanartisticadjustmenttothesituationthatseemsremarkable,Ulloa,afterturningtheendofthepeninsulaandsailinguptheLowerCaliforniancoast,senthomeonesolitaryvessel,andvanishedthenforever.Financiallywrecked,andexasperatedtothelastdegreebytheslightsandindignitiesofhisenemiesandoftheMendozagovernment,CortesleftforSpainearlyin1540withthehopeofretrievinghispowerbyappearinginpersonbeforethemonarch.AsinthecaseofColumbus,scantsatisfactionwashis,andtheendwasthatthegallantcaptain,whoseromanticcareerintheNewWorldseemslikeafairytale,neveragainsawthesceneofhisconquests.

Mendoza,thenewviceroyofNewSpain,amanoffinecharacterbututterlywithoutsympathyforCortes,andwhowasinstrumentalinbringingabouthisdownfall,nowdeterminedonanexpeditionofgreatmagnitude:anexpeditionthatshouldproceedbybothlandandwatertothewonderfulSevenCitiesofCibola,believedtoberichbeyondcomputation.ThenegroEstevanhadlatelybeensentbacktothemarvelousnorthlandhesoglowinglydescribed,guidingMarcos,theFranciscanmonkofSavoyardbirth,whowastoinvestigatecarefully,asfaraspossible,thegloriesrecountedandspeedilyreport.They

wereinthenorthaboutthesametime(summerof1539)thatUlloawassailinguptheSeaofCortes.Thenegro,whohadbyarrangementproceededtheresomedaysinadvanceofMarcos,waskilledatthefirstPueblovillage,andMarcos,afraidofhislife,andbeforehehadseenanythingofthewonderfulcitiesexceptafrightenedglimpsefromadistanthill,beataprecipitateretreattoNewGalicia,theprovincejustnorthofNewSpain,andofwhichFrancisVasquezdeCoronadohadrecentlybeenmadegovernor.HereheastonishedCoronadowithadescriptionofthevastwealthand"beautyoftheSevenCitiesofCibola,adescriptionthatdoescredittohispowersofimagination.CoronadolostnotimeinaccompanyingMarcostoMexico,whereaconferencewithMendozaresultedinthepromotionofthemonk,andtheimmediateorganisationofthegreatexpedition

mentioned.Coronadowasmadegeneralofthelandforces,andHernandodeAlarconwasplacedinchargeoftheships.HavingalandmarchtomakeCoronado,startedinFebruary,1540,whileAlarconsailedinMay.CoronadoproceededtoSanMigueldeCuliacan,thelastsettlementtowardthenorth,nearthecoast,whencehetookadirectionslightlyeastofnorth.

Alarcon,withhisshipstheSanPedroandtheSantaCatalina,laidacourseforthehavenofSantIago.TheywerecaughtinaseverestormwhichsogreatlyfrightenedthemenontheSantaCatalina,"moreafraidthanwasneed,"remarksAlarcon,thattheycastoverboardninepiecesofordnance,twoanchors,onecable,and"manyotherthingsasneedfulfortheenterprisewhereinwewentastheshipitself."At

SantIagoherepairedhislosses,tookonstoresandsomemembersofhiscompany,andsailedforAguaiauall,theseaportofSanMigueldeCuliacan,whereCoronadowastoturnhisbackontheoutpostsofcivilisation.ThegeneralhadalreadygonewhenAlarconarrived,buttheyexpectedtoholdcommunicationwitheachother,ifnotactuallytomeet,fartheron;anditseemsfromthisthattheymusthavefeltconfidenceinfindingariverbywhichAlarconmightsailintotheinterior.Asearlyas1531therewerevaguereportsofalargeriver,themouthofwhichwasclosedbytheAmerindslivingtherebymeansofahugecablestretchedacrossfromsidetoside.Theremayalso


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havebeenotherrumoursofalargeriverbesidesthesurmisesoftheUlloaparty.Atanyrate,AlarconandCoronadofullyexpectedtobeintouchmuchofthetime.Thisexpectationappearsabsurdtousnowwhenweunderstandthegeography,buttherewasnothingoutofthewayaboutthesuppositionatthattime.Asithappened,thetwodivisionsnevermet,norweretheyabletocommunicateevenonce.SofarasrenderingCoronadoanyassistancewasconcerned,AlarconmightaswellhavebeenonthecoastofAfrica.Thefarthertheyproceededthefartheraparttheywere,butAlarconkeptaconstantandfaithfullookoutfortheotherpartythewholetime,neverlosinganopportunitytoinquireitswhereabouts.

Coronadohadleftawell-provisionedship,theSanGabriel,atAguaiauall,forAlarcontobringalong.Thesesupplieswerefortheuseofthearmywhenthetwopartiesshouldmeetinthenorthfromtimetotime.Alarconaddedthevesseltohisfleetandproceededalongupthecoast,keepingasnearthelandasthewaterwouldpermit,andconstantlyonthelookoutforsignalsfromtheotherparty,orforAmerindswhomightbeabletogiveinformationconcerningthepositionofthegeneral.Thus,atlast,hecametotheveryheadofthegulfwhereUlloahadwonderedattherushofwatersandhadturnedawaywithoutinvestigation."Andwhenwewerecome,"hesays,"totheflatsandshoalsfromwhencetheaforesaidfleetreturned,itseemedtome,astotherest,thatwehadthefirmland

beforeus,andthatthoseshoalsweresoperilousandfearfulthatitwasathingtobeconsideredwhetherwithourskiffswecouldenterinamongthem:andthepilotsandtherestofthecompanywouldhavehadusdoasCaptainUlloadid,andhavereturnedbackagain."ButAlarconwasnotofaretreatingdisposition;thefierceColoradohadnowmetitsfirstconqueror.Itmustberemembered,forUlloa'ssake,thattherewasnotthesameincentiveforhimtoriskhisshipsandthelivesofhismeninanattempttoexaminetheshoalsandcurrentsofthisdangerousplace.AlarconwaslookingforandexpectingtomeetCoronadoatanytime.HeknewthatCoronadowasdependingonthesuppliescarriedbytheSanGabriel,anditwouldhavebeenrankcowardiceonthepartofAlarcontohavebackedoutatthefirstdifficulty.Buthehadnointentionofretiringfromthecontest,for

hesays:

"ButbecauseyourLordshipcommandedmethatIshouldbringyouthesecretofthatgulf,IresolvedthatalthoughIhadknownIshouldhavelosttheships,Iwouldnothaveceasedforanythingtohaveseentheheadthereof,andthereforeIcommandedNicolasZamorano,PilotMajor,andDominicodelCastellothateachofthemshouldtakeaboat,andleadintheirhands,andruninamongthoseshoals,toseeiftheycouldfindoutachannelwherebytheshipsmightenterin;towhomitseemedthattheshipsmightsailuphigher(althoughwithgreattravailanddanger),andinthissortIandhebegantofollowourwaywhichtheyhadtaken,andwithinashortwhileafterwefoundourselvesfastonthesandswithallourthreeships,in

suchsortthatonecouldnothelpanother,neithercouldtheboatssuccourusbecausethecurrentwassogreatthatitwasimpossibleforoneofustocometoanother.WhereuponwewereinsuchgreatjeopardythatthedeckoftheAdmiralwasoftentimesunderwater;andifagreatsurgeoftheseahadnotcomeanddrivenourshiprightupandgaveherleave,asitwere,tobreatheawhile,wehadtherebeendrowned;andlikewisetheothertwoshipsfoundthemselvesinverygreathazard,yetbecausetheywerelesseranddrewlesswatertheirdangerwasnotsogreatasours.NowitpleasedGoduponthereturnofthefloodthattheshipscameonfloat,andsowewentforward.


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Andalthoughthecompanywouldhavereturnedback,yetforallthisIdeterminedtogoforwardandtopursueourattemptedvoyage.Andwepassedforwardwithmuchado,turningourstemsnowthisway,nowthatway,toseekandfindthechannel.AnditpleasedGodthatafterthissortwecametotheverybottomofthebay,wherewefoundaverymightyriver,whichranwithsogreatfuryofastream,thatwecouldhardlysailagainstit."

Here,then,begantheacquaintancebetweentheEuropeanandtherivernowknownastheColoradooftheWest.TheexperienceofAlarconwasimmediatelytypicalofmuchthatwastofollowinthecenturiesofendeavourtoarriveatanintimateknowledgeofthissavagetorrent.

CHAPTERII

TheUnknownRiver--AlarconAscendsitEighty-fiveLeaguesandNamesittheRiodeBuenaGuia--MelchiorDiazArrivesatitsBanksLaterandCallsittheRiodelTizon--CardenasDiscoverstheGrandCanyon.

HavingtriumphedoverthefiercetidalborewhichrendersthemouthoftheColoradodangerous,Alarconsecuredasafeanchorageforhisvesselsandbeganimmediatepreparationsforfollowinguptheriver

intothedistantinterior,bothtogainaknowledgeofitandtoseekforinformationofthepositionofCoronado.Leavingoneofhissmallboatsfortheuseofthosewhoremainedinchargeoftheships,hetooktheothertwo,and,placinginthemsomelightcannon,preparedthemaswellashecouldforanyemergencythatmightbeencountered.Hispartyconsistedoftwentysoldiers,sailors,andhelpers,besideshistreasurer,RodrigoMaldonado,andGaspardeCastilleia,comptroller.Alarconpossessedthequalitiesofasuccessfulexplorer.Hewasboldyetcautious,determinedbutnotreckless,withsafejudgmentandquickadaptability.Hisfirstcommandwasthat,nomatterwhathappenedincaseofmeetingwithnatives,allhiscompanyweretoremainsilentandinactive.Withthiswiseprovision,whichkeptthecontrolinhisownhands,thepartylefttheshipsbehindon

Thursday,August26th*(1540),apparentlythesamedayasthearrival.Thecurrentwassostrongthatthemenwereobligedtotowtheboatsfromthebank,renderingprogressslowanddifficult,butneverthelesstheywereable,beforenightandfatiguecompelledahalt,toadvanceaboutsixleagues.Thoughconstantlyonthelookoutfornativesinthewidebarrenstretchesoflowlandoneachsideoftheriver,nonewereseentillearlynextmorning,when,soonafterstarting,anumberofhutswerediscoveredneartheriverbank.Theoccupantsrushedforthingreatexcitementatthesuddenappearanceofthesesingular-lookingpeopleintheirequallysingularboats,andnowonder!Yearsandtheageshadslippedawayandneveryethadanypeoplebuttheirownkindappearedontheirhorizon.Oppositionwasthenaturalimpulse,andtheysigned

fortheSpaniardstogoback,threateningattack.TheeffectofthisonAlarconwasacommandtoanchortheboatsoutofreachinthemiddleoftheriver,thoughtherapidlyaugmentingnumbersofthepeopleontheshoresooninspiredtheothersoftheexpeditionwithadesiretobeataretreattowardstheships.Alarcon,however,wasnotofthismind.Thenativeswere,ofcourse,armedonlywiththebow-and-arrowandsimilarprimitiveweapons,whiletheSpaniards,thoughfewinnumber,possessedtheadvantageoffirearms,ofwhichthenativeshadnocomprehensionwhatever.Theinterpreter,beinganativefromdownthecoast,understoodnotawordofthislanguage,


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butthepresenceamongthestrangersofoneoftheirownkindsomewhatpacifiedthenatives,andAlarcondidallhecouldbysignstoexpresshispeacefulintentions,throwinghisarmstothebottomoftheboatandputtinghisfootonthem,atthesametimeorderingtheboatstobeplacednearershore.Aftermuchmanoeuvringtheyfinallybroughtaboutsometriflingintercourseandthenproceededuptheriver,thenativesfollowingalongtheshore.RepeatedlytheysignalledfortheSpaniardstoland,butAlarcon,fearfuloftreachery,declined,andspentthenightinthemiddleofthestream.Norwastheappearanceofthenativesreassuring,fortheyhadtheirfaceshideouslypainted,somealloverandothersonlyhalf,whilestillotherscarriedpaintedmasksbeforethem.Intheirnostrilstheyworependants,andtheirearswerepiercedwithholeswhereintheyhungbonesandshells.Theironlyclothingwasasortofgirdlearoundthewaist.

*Hakluytgives"25th,"butitisamisprint,asthisThursdayin1540wasthe26th.

Gradually,intercourseincreased,andpresentsoftrinketsseemedtoinclineallthenativesinAlarcon'sfavour.Atlengthhediscoveredthattheyreverencedthesun,andwithoutcompunctionheproclaimedthathecamefromthatorb.Thisdeceptionservedhimwell.

Henceforthnoservicewastoogreatforthenativestoperformforthesesacredbeings.Everythingwasplacedattheirdisposal.Alarcon'swordwastheirlaw.Theyrelievedthemenentirelyofthewearisometaskoftowingtheboats,strivingwitheachotherfortheprivilege.WithoutthishelpitwouldhavebeenimpossibleforAlarcontohaveproceededfaruptheriver,andhefullyappreciatedthis,thoughthechiefrewardbestowedonthehelpersandallthenativeswascrossesmadeofsticksandofpaper.These,heinformedthembysigns,wereprecious,andhedistributedtheminlargenumbers.Themorningafterheproclaimedhimselfascomingfromthesun,manyswamouttowheretheboatwasanchored,contendingfortheprivilegeofsecuringtheropewithwhichtheboatwastowed."Andwegaveittothem,"saysAlarcon,"withagoodwill,thankingGodfor

thegoodprovisionwhichHegaveustogouptheriver."

Theinterpreterfrequentlyaddressedthenativesashewentforward,andatlast,onTuesdaynight,amanwasdiscoveredwhounderstoodhim.Thismanwastakenintotheboat,andAlarcon,alwaystruehistrust,askedhimwhetherhehadseenorheardofanypeopleinthecountrylikehimself,hopingtosecuresomecluetoCoronado."Heansweredmeno,sayingthathehadsometimeheardofoldmenthatveryfarfromthatcountry,therewereotherwhitemen,andwithbeardslikeus,andthatheknewnothingelse.IaskedhimalsowhetherheknewaplacecalledCibolaandarivercalledTotonteac,andheansweredmeno."

CoronadomeanwhilehadarrivedatCibolaonJuly7th(or10th)andhadthereforebeenamongthevillagesoftheRioGrandedelNortenearlytwomonths.TheroutetothesetownsfromthelowerColorado,thatis,bythegreatintertribalhighwayofsouthernArizona,followedtheGilaRiver,destinedafterwardstobetraversedbythewanderingtrappers,bythewearygold-seekerboundforCalifornia,andfinally,foraconsiderabledistance,bythesteamlocomotive.ButitwasanunknownquantityatthetimeofAlarcon'svisit,sofaraswhitemenwereconcerned.Fartherup,Alarconmetwithanothermanwhounderstoodhisinterpreter,andthismansaidhehadbeento


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Cibola,orCevola,*asAlarconwritesit,andthatitwasamonth'sjourney,"byapaththatwentalongthatriver."AlarconmustnowhavebeenaboutatthemouthoftheGila,andtheriverreferredtowas,ofcourse,theGila.ThismandescribedthetownsofCibolaasallwhohadseenthemdescribedthem;thatis,largetownsofthree-orfour-storeyhouses,withwindowsonthesides,**andencompassedbywallssomesevenoreightfeetinheight.ThepueblosoftheRioGrandevalleywerewellknownineverydirectionandforlongdistances.TheApaches,harassingthevillagersoneveryside,andhavingthemselvesawiderange,alonecarriedtheknowledgeofthemtothefourwinds.Ineverytribe,too,thereareborntravellerswhoconstantlyvisitdistantregions,bringingbackdetaileddescriptionsoftheiradventuresandthesightsbeheld,withwhichtoregaleanadmiringcrowdduringthewinterevenings.Theirdescriptionsareusuallyfairlyaccuratefromthestandpointoftheirownunderstanding.InthiscasethenativegaveagooddescriptionoftheCibolatowns,andtheTusayanpeoplehadmeanwhilegivenCardenasadescriptionoftheseverynativesonthelowerColorado.AdayortwolaterAlarconreceivedfurtherinformationofCibola,andthisinformanttoldaboutachiefwhohadfourgreenearthenplateslikeAlarcon's,exceptincolor,andalsoadoglikeAlarcon's,aswellasotherthings,whichablackmanhadbroughtintothecountry.ThisblackmanwasEstevan,whohadbeenkilledaboutayearbefore.Thenewsofthismanandhisexecutionhadtravelledrapidly,showing

frequentintercoursewiththepueblosbeyondthemountains.StillfartheronhemetanothermanwhohadbeenatCibola,andwhoalsotoldhimofagreatriverinwhichtherewerecrocodiles.ThiswastheMississippi,ofcourse,andthecrocodileswerealligators.AsAlarconhadneverseenanalligatorhetookthedescriptiontomeancrocodile.AlittlefartherandheheardofthenegroEstevanagainandthereasonwhytheCibolanshadkilledhim,whichwastopreventtheSpaniards,whomhedescribed,fromfindingtheirwayintotheCibolacountry.Thismanalsodescribedthebisonandapeoplewholivedinpaintedtentsinsummerandinwinterinhousesofwoodtwoorthreestoreyshigh.Andthustheexpeditioncontinueduptheriver,inquiringastheywentonallsubjects.OnSeptember6ththeoldmanwhohadbeenaparticularfriendandinterpreterwascalled

onshorebythenatives,andtherewasimmediatelyananimateddiscussionwhichAlarcondiscoveredrelatedtohimself.InformationhadcomefromCibolathatthereweretheremenliketheseSpaniardswhosaidtheywereChristians.Thesehadbeenwarlike,anditwasproposedtokillallofAlarcon'spartytopreventtheothersfromgainingaknowledgeofthiscountry.ButtheoldmandeclaredAlarcontobethesonofthesunandtookhispart.FinallyitwasdecidedtoaskhimwhetherhewereaChristianorthesonofthesun.AlarconpretendedgreatwonderatmenlikehimselfbeingatCibola,buttheyassuredhimitwastrue,astwomenwhohadcomefromtherereportedthattheyhadbeardsandgunsandswordsjustthesame.Alarconstillinsistedthathewasthesonofthesun.TheysaidthemenatCibolasaidthesame,towhichAlarconrepliedthatitmightwellbe,andif

sotheyneedhavenofear,forthesonsofthesunwouldbehisbrothersandwouldtreatthemashehaddone.Thisseemedtopacifythem.HeinquirednowhowfaritwastoCibola,andtheyansweredtendaysthroughanuninhabitedcountry,withnoaccountoftherestofthewaybecauseitwasinhabited.

*TheoldSpaniardsused"v"and"b"interchangeably,sothatCibolaandCevolawouldbepronouncedthesame.Otherletterswereusedinthesamelooseway.


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**Windowsonthesidesofthehouses,NOToftheWALLS,asonewriterhasputit.ThevillagesofthelowerpartofNewMexicohadthesewallsofcircumvallation,buttothenorthwardsuchwallsappeartohavebeenrare.

AlarconwasnowmorethaneverdesirousofinformingCoronadoofhiswhereabouts,andtriedtopersuadesomeofhismentogotoCibolawithamessage,promisingfinerewards.Onlyone,anegroslave,andhewithreluctance,offeredtoattemptthejourney.Alarcontriedtogettheoldmantogivehimguidesandprovisions,butwithoutsuccess,astheoldmanseemedtodesiretoinduceAlarcontohelpthemfighttheirbattleswiththeCumanas,saying,ifhewouldendthiswar,hecouldhavetheircompanytoCibola.Alarconwasdeterminedtogo,andsentamanbacktotheshipstoinformthosethereofhispurpose,buthechangedhismindsoonafter,concludingtogototheshipshimselfandreturn,leavingtherehissick,andrearranginghiscompany.Themanwhohadbeensenttotheshipsoverlandwasovertakenandbroughtbackbythenatives,butwasobligedtoremainwiththemtillAlarconcameupagain.Thedescentfromherewasmadeintwoandahalfdays,thoughithadtakenfifteentocomeup.Arrivingattheshipsallwasfoundtohavegonewellexceptafewminoraccidents,and,directingrepairstobemade,Alarconturnedaboutandstartedup-riveroncemore,firstcalling

thewholecompanytogether,tellingthemwhathehadlearnedofCibola,andthat,asCoronadomightnowhavebeeninformedbynativesofhispresence,hehopedtofindmeansofreachinghim.Therewasmuchobjectiontothisplan,butheproceededtocarryitout,takingallthreeboatsthistime,loadedwith"waresofexchange,withcornandotherseeds,withhensandcocksofCastile."ThisregionhecalledtheProvinceofCampannadelaCruz,andheleftordersforthebuildingofanoratoryorchapeltobenamedtheChapelofOurLadydelaBuenaGuia.TheriverhecalledtheRiodeBuenaGuia(goodguidance)fromthemottoontheviceroyMendoza'scoatofarms.ItwasTuesday,the14thofSeptember,whenhestarted,takingwithhimNicolasZamorano,chiefpilot,torecordthelatitudes.HesoonarrivedagainamongtheQuicomas,*andthenamongtheCoamas,where

hefoundhismanwhohadbeenleftbehindonthefirsttrip.Thismanhadbeensowelltreatedthathewasentirelycontenttoremaintillthepartyshouldcomebackdowntheriver.Thiswasthehighestpointreachedonthefirstvisit.Everywherethepeopleweretreasuringthecrosseswhichhadbeengiventhem,kneelingbeforethematsunrise.Alarconkeptonuptherivertillhe"enteredbetweencertainveryhighmountains,throughwhichthisriverpassethwithastraightchannel,andtheboatswentupagainstthestreamveryhardlyforwantofmentodrawthesame."FromthisitmaybeinferredthattheCoamasdidnotstrivewitheachotherfortheprivilegeoftowingtheboatsofthesechildrenofthesunasthosebelowhaddone.NowanenchanterfromtheCumanastriedtodestroythepartybysettingmagicreedsinthewateronbothsides,butthespellfailedandthe

explorerswentontothehomeoftheoldmanwhohadbeensogoodafriendandguidetothem.Atthis,Alarcon'sfarthestpoint,hecausedaveryhighcrosstobeerected,onwhichwordswerecarvedtotheeffectthathehadreachedtheplace,sothatifCoronado'smenchancedtocomethatwaytheymightseeit.Nothingissaidaboutburyingletters,yetDiazlatermentionsfindinglettersburiedatthefootofatree,apparentlynearerthesea.Decidingthathecouldnotatthistimeaccomplishhispurposeofopeningcommunicationwiththearmy,Alarconconcludedtoreturntotheships,butwiththeintentionoftryingoncemore.Theseconddayafterstartingdownhe


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arrivedattheplacewheretheSpaniardhadremained.Hetoldhimthathehadgone"abovethirtyleaguesintothecountry"beyond.Ithadtakenhim,before,twoandahalfdaystoreachtherivermouthfromhere,sothatitseemshewasaboutfourdaysgoingdownfromhisfarthestpoint.Roughlyestimatinghisprogressatsixmilesanhourfortwelvehoursaday,infourdaysthedistancecoveredwouldbeabout288miles.Hesayshewentupeighty-fiveleagues(thiswouldbefifty-fivethefirsttimeandthirtymorethesecond),which,countinginMexicanleaguesoftwoandthreequartermileseach,givesadistanceof2333/4miles,oraboutonehundredmilesabovethemouthoftheGila.Thisstreamhedoesnotmention.Hemayhavetakenitforamerebayou,butitappearstobecertainthathepassedbeyondit.HesaysUlloawasmistakenbytwodegreesastohisnorthernmostpoint,andthathesailedfourdegreesbeyondhim.ThemeaningofthismaybethathewentfourdegreesbeyondUlloa'sfalsereckoning,oractuallytwodegreesabovetheshoalswhereUlloaturnedback.Thiswouldtakehimtothe34thparallel,andwouldcoincidewithhiseighty-fiveleagues,andalsowiththepositionofthefirstmountainsmetwithingoinguptheriver,theChocolaterange.Alarconwasnotsoinexperiencedthathewouldhaverepresentedeighty-fiveleaguesonthecourseoftheriverasequallingfourdegreesoflatitude.Hadhegonetothe36thdegreehewouldhavepassedthroughBlackCanyon,andthisissoextraordinaryafeaturethathecouldnothavefailedtonoteitspecially.When

Alarconarrivedattheshipsagain,heevidentlyhadstrongreasonforabandoninghisintentionofreturningforanotherattempttocommunicatewithCoronado,andhesetsailforhome.Anotherdocumentsaysthetorredowasdestroyingtheships,andthisisveryprobable.Hecoasteddownthegulf,landingfrequently,andgoinglongdistancesintotheinteriorsearchingfornewsofCoronado,buthelearnednothingbeyondwhatheheardontheriver.

*ThetribesandbandsspokenofbyAlarconcannotbeidentified,buttheseQuicomas,orQuicamas,weredoubtlessthesameastheQuiquimasmentionedbyKino,1701,andGarces,1775.TheywereprobablyofYumanstock.TheCumanaswerepossiblyMohaves.

Whilehewasstrivingtofindawayofreachingthemainbodyoftheexpedition,whichduringthistimewascomplacentlyrobbingthePuebloansontheRioGrande,twoofficersofthatexpeditionweremarchingthroughthewildernessendeavouringtofindhim,andathirdwastravellingtowardtheGrandCanyon.OneofthesewasDonRodrigoMaldonado,thusbearingexactlythesamenameasoneofAlarcon'sofficers;anotherwasCaptainMelchiorDiaz,andthethirdDonLopezdeCardenas,whodistinguishedhimselfontheRioGrandebyparticularbrutalitytowardthevillagers.DonRodrigowentinsearchoftheshipsdowntherivertothecoastfromthevalleyofCorazones,butobtainednoinformationofthem,thoughhemetwithgiantnativesandbroughtbackwithhimoneverytallmanasa

specimen.ThemainarmyofCoronadohadnotyetgonefromthisvalleyofCorazones,wherethesettlementcalledSanHieronimohadbeenestablished,andthebestmaninitreachedonlytothechestofthisnativegiant.

Thearmymovedontoanothervalley,whereahaltwasmadetoawaitordersfromthegeneral.Atlength,aboutthemiddleofSeptember,MelchiorDiazcamebackfromCibola,withdispatches,accompaniedbyJuanGallegos,whoboreamessagefortheviceroy.IntheircompanyalsowasthemiserableFriarMarcos,pursuinghisdismalreturnto


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NewSpainbydirectionofthegeneral,whoconsidereditunsafeforhimtoremainwiththearmynowthatthegloriousbubbleofhisimaginationhadbeenexploded.MelchiorDiazwasanexcellentofficer,andalreadyhadanexperienceinthisnorthernregionextendingoversomefouryears.Itwashe,also,whohadbeensent,thepreviousNovember,asfarastheplacecalledChichilticalli,inanattempttoverifythefriar'stale,andhadreportedthatthenativesweregoodfornothingexcepttomakeintoChristians.Themainarmy,whichwasincommandofDonTristandeArellano,inaccordancewiththeordersreceivedfromCoronado,nowadvancedtowardCibola.Maldonado,whohadbeentothecoast,wentwithit.Diazretainedeightymen,partofwhomweretodefendthesettlementofSanHieronimo,andtwenty-fiveweretoaccompanyhimonhisexpeditioninsearchofAlarcon.Hestartednorthandthenwentwest,followingnativeguidesfor150leagues(4121/2miles)inall,andatlengthreachedacountryinhabitedbygiantnativeswho,inordertokeepwarminthechillautumnair,carriedaboutwiththemafirebrand.Fromthiscircumstance,DiazcalledthelargeriverhefoundheretheRiodelTizon.ThiswastheBuenaGuiaofAlarcon.Thenativeswereprodigiouslystrong,onemanbeingabletoliftandcarrywitheaseonhisheadaheavylogwhichsixofthesoldierscouldnottransporttothecamp.HereDiazheardthatboatshadcomeuptherivertoapointthreedays'journeybelow,andhewenttheretofindoutaboutit,doubtlessexpectingtogetonthetrackof

Alarcon.Butthelatterhaddepartedfromthemouthoftheriveratleasttwoorthreeweeksbefore;onewritersaystwomonths.*ThesamewriterstatesthatDiazreachedtheriverthirtyleaguesabovethemouth,andthatAlarconwentasfaragainabove.ThiscoincidesverywellwithAlarcon'sestimateofeighty-fiveleagues,forDiazdidnotfollowthewindingsofthestreamasAlarconwasforcedtodowithhisboats.Attheplacedowntheriver,Diazfoundatreebearinganinscription:"Alarconreachedthispoint;therearelettersatthefootofthistree."Alarcondoesnot,asbeforenoted,mentionburyingletters,andthesewerefoundatthefootofatree,sothatDiazevidentlyfailedtoreachthecrosserectedatAlarcon'shighestpoint.

*RelaciondelSuceso.AlarconmusthavereachedhishighestpointaboutOctober5thor6th,andtheshipsonthereturnaboutthe10th.DiazprobablyarrivedattheriveraboutNovember1st.

Diaznowproceededuptheriveragain,lookingforaplacewherehecouldsafelycrosstoexplorethecountryontheoppositeside.Afterascendingfromthespotwherehefoundthelettersforfiveorsixdays,heconcludedtheycouldcrossbymeansofrafts.Intheconstructionoftheseraftsheinvitedthehelpofthenativesoftheneighbourhood.HewasprobablyupneartheChocolateMountainsandtheCumanas,whowerehostiletoAlarcon,andwhosesorcererhadattemptedtodestroyhimbymeansofthemagicreeds.Theyhadbeen

merelywaitingforanopportunitytoattackDiaz,andtheyperceivedtheirchanceinthisassistanceincrossingtheriver.Theyreadilyagreedtohelpmaketherafts,andeventoassistinthecrossing.Butwhiletheworkwasinprogressasoldierwhohadgoneoutfromthecampwassurprisedtoobservealargenumberofthemstealingofftoamountainontheotherside.Whenhereportedthis,Diazcausedoneofthenativestobesecured,withouttheothersbeingawareofit.HewastorturedtillheconfessedthattheplanwastobegintheattackwhensomeoftheSpaniardswereacrosstheriver,someinthewater,andtheothersonthenearbank.Thusseparatedtheybelieved


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CoronadoproceededeastwardtoaboutthewesternlineofMissouri,and,findingcolonisationanywhereintheregionsvisitedoutofthequestion,hereturnedin1542toMexico,withhisentirearmyexceptingacoupleofpadres.

CHAPTERIII

TheGrandCanyon--CharacteroftheColoradoRiver--TheWater-Gods;ErosionandCorrosion--TheNativesandtheirHighways--The"GreenRiverValley"oftheOldTrappers--TheStrangeVegetationandSomeSingularAnimals.

ThestupendouschasmknownastheGrandCanyon,discoveredbyCardenasintheautumnof1540,isthemostremarkablefeatureofthisextraordinaryriver,andatthesametimeisoneofthemarvelsoftheworld.Thoughdiscoveredsolongagothatwemakefriendswiththeconquistadoreswhenweapproachitshistory,itremained,withtheothercanyonsoftheriver,aproblemfor329yearsthereafter,thatis,till1869.Discoverydoesnotmeanknowledge,andknowledgedoesnotmeanpublicity.Inthecaseofthisgorge,withitsimmenselengthandcountlesstributarychasms,theviewCardenasobtainedwas

akintoadog'sdiscoveryofthemoon.Ithaspracticallybeenseveraltimesre-discovered.Indeed,eachpersonwhofirstlooksintotheabysshasasensationofbeingadiscoverer,forthesceneissoweirdandlonelyandsoincomprehensibleinitsnoveltythatonefeelsthatitcouldneverhavebeenviewedbefore.AnditISratheradiscoveryforeachindividual,becausenoamountofverbalorpictorialdescriptioncaneverfullypreparethespectatorfor,thesublimereality.Evenwhenonebecomesfamiliarwiththeincomparablespectacleitneverceasestoastonish.Arecentwriterhaswellsaid:"ThesublimityofthePyramidsisendurable,butattherimoftheGrandCanyonwefeeloutdone."*Outdoneisexactlytherightword.Nowhereelsecanman'sinsignificancebesoburnedintohissoulashere,wherehisingenuityandpowercountfornaught.

*HarrietMonroe,AtlanticMonthly,June,1902.

Cardenas,afterall,wasonlyoneofthediscoverers.HewasmerelythefirstWHITEmanwhosawit.WhenwasitthatthefirstMANrecoiledfromtheedgeofthatthenactuallyunknownmasterpieceoftheWater-gods,whosopersistentlypliedtheirtoolsintheforgottenages?Hewastherealdiscovererandhewillneverbeknown.Asappliedtonewcountries--newtoourrace--theterm"unknown"isrelative.Eachfreshexplorerconsidershisthedeedthatshallpermanentlyberecorded,nomatterwhohasgonebefore,andthePattiesandtheJedediahSmithsareforgotten.Intheselater

yearssomewhohavedaredtheterrorsofthemercilessriverintheGrandCanyonspokeofitasthe"GreatUnknown,"forgettingthedeedofPowell;andwhenLieutenantWheelerlaboriouslysucceededindragginghisboatsuptothemouthofDiamondCreek,hesaid:"NOWtheexplorationiscompleted."HEforgotthedeedofPowell.Arecentwritermentionsthenorth-westerncornerofArizonaasa"mysteriouswilderness."*Heforgotthatitwasthoroughlyexploredyearsago.Wildernessitmaybe,ifthatmeanssparselysettled,butmysterious?--no.Itisallknownandonrecord.


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*RayStannardBaker,CenturyMagazine,May,1902.

TheGrandCanyonmaybelikenedtoaninvertedmountainrange.Imagineagreatmountainchaincastupsidedowninplaster.Thenalltheformerridgesandspursoftherangebecometributarycanyonsandgulchesrunningbacktwentyorthirtymilesintothesurroundingcountry,growingshallowerandshallowerasthedistanceincreasesfromthecentralcore,justasthegreatspursandridgesofamountainrange,descending,meltfinallyintotheplain.Oftentherearepartswherethecentralgorgeisnarrowandprecipitous,justasamountainrangefrequentlypossessesmightyprecipices.Butitisanerrortothinkofgreatcanyonsasmereslitsintheground,darkandgloomy,likeadeepwellfromwhosedepthsstarsmaybesightedatmidday.Minorcanyonssometimesapproachthischaracter,as,forexample,thecanyonoftheupperVirgen,calledParunuweap,fifteenhundredfeetdeepandnomorethantwentytothirtyfeetwide,withverticalwalls,butIhaveneverbeeninacanyonfromwhichstarswerevisibleindaylight,norhaveIeverknownanyonewhohad.Thelightisaboutthesameasthatatthebottomofanarrowstreetflankedbyveryhighbuildings.Thewallsmaysometimesbegloomyfromtheircolour,ormayseemsofromthecircumstancesunderwhichoneviewsthem,butasidefromthefactthatanydeep,shut-invalleyorcanyonmaybecomeoppressive,thereisnothingspeciallygloomy

aboutadeepcanyon.Thesunusuallyfallsmoreorlessineverycanyon,nomatterhownarrowordeep.Itmayfalltotheverybottommostoftheday,oronlyforanhourortwo,dependingonthetrendofthecanyonwithreferencetothesun'scourse.AtthebottomoftheKanabwhereitjoinstheGrand,thesunlightinNovemberremainsinthebottomjusttwohours,butoutsideinthemaingorgethetimeisverymuchlonger.

Thewallsofagreatcanyon,andusuallyasmallone,areterraced;seldomaretheywhollyverticalfortheirentireheight,thoughoccasionallytheymayapproachthisconditionononesideortheother,andmorerarelyonbothsidesatonce,dependingonthegeologicalformationsofthelocality.Owingtotheimmenseheightof

thewallsofsuchcanyonsasthoseontheColorado,thecliffsfrequentlyappearperpendicularwhentheyarefarfromit,justasamountainpeakoftenseemstotoweroverone'sheadwheninrealityitmaybeaconsiderabledistanceoff.Inthenatureoftheformationanddevelopmentofcanyons,theycouldnotlongretaincontinuousverticalwalls.WhatPowellcallsthe"recessionofcliffs"comesintoplay.Theerosiveandcorrasivepowerofwaterbeingthechieflandsculptors,itisevidentthattherewillbeacontinualwearingdownofthefacesoftheboundingcliffs.Thesofterbedswillbecutawayfasterthantheharder,andwheretheseunderlietheharderthelatterwillbeunderminedandfall.Everycanyonisalwayswideningatitstopandsides,throughtheactionofrain,frost,andwind,aswellasdeepeningthroughtheactionofitsflowingstream.EROSION

isthispowerwhichcarvesawaythecliffs,andCORRASIONtheonewhichsawsatthebottom,thelatterterm,ingeologicalnomenclature,meaningthecuttingpowerofrunningwater.*Thiscuttingpowervariesaccordingtothedeclivityandtheamountofsedimentcarriedinsuspension.Itisplainthatastreamhavinggreatdeclivitywillbeabletocarrymoresedimentthanonehavinglittle,andinabarrencountrywouldalwaysbehighlychargedwithsand,whichwouldcutandscourthebedofthechannellikeagrindstone.AsDuttonsays,arivercuts,however,onlyitsownwidth,therestofacanyonbeingthe"workoftheforcesoferosion,


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thewind,frost,andrain.Thatiswhywehavecanyons.Thepowersoferosionarefarslowerthanthoseofcorrasion,especiallyinanaridregion,becausetheyareintermittent.Whererockstakeapolish,asinMarbleCanyon,thescouringandpolishingworkofcorrasionisseenintheshiningbrightsurfaceasfarasthewaterrises.ThisallbelongstotheromanceoftheWater-gods,thosemarvellouslandsculptors.

*Theintroductionofthissubjectmayseemunnecessarytothegeneralreader,butnojustcomprehensionofthisrivercanbereachedwithoutsomeknowledgeoftheforcescreatingitschasms.

ToproducecanyonslikethoseoftheColorado,peculiarandunusualconditionsarenecessary.Theremustexistavastregionlyinghighabovesea-level.Thisregionmustbearid.Outofitmustriseseparatedmountainmassestosuchheightsthattheyshallbewellwatered.Thesemostelevatedregionsalonehavingabundantrain-andsnowfall,torrentialstreamsaregeneratedandpoureddownuponthearidwastes,wheretheypersistentlyscourtheirbeds,ploughingdeepchannelsbelowtheleveloftheirsurroundings.Theperpendicularityofthewallsofthesechannels,orcanyonsastheyarecalled,dependsonthevolumeandcontinuityoftheflowingstream,onthearidityofthecountrythroughwhichtheyarecut,andonthe

rock-formation.Afierceandcontinuoustorrent,wheretherainfallisattheminimum,willsospeedilyoutrivaltheforcesoferosionthatthecanyonwillhaveverticalwalls.Anexampleisseeninthosefrequent"mud"canyonsfoundinaridregions,wheresomebrook,havingitssourceinhighlands,cutsachannelthroughclayordryearthwithverticalsides,thatstandforyears.Aslongasthesurfaceoftheadjacentlandsisundisturbed,itactslikearoof,throwingoffthewaterthatfallsuponitintothemainstream.*ThusthefoundationsofthesewallsarenotassailedfromBEHIND,whichistheirweakestpoint.Ifthelandsurfaceisbrokenup,permittingtherainstosoakinandsaturatetheclayorearth,thewholemassbecomessoftenedandwillspeedilyfallandslideoutintothecanyon.**Thesidesofallcanyonsinanaridregionaremoreorless

protectedinthesameway.Thatis,therainsfallsuddenly,rarelycontinuouslyforanylengthoftime,andarecollectedandconductedawayimmediately,nothavingachancetoentertheground.Homogeneoussandstonepreservesitsperpendicularitybetterthanotherrocks,onereasonbeingthatitdoesnotinvitepercolation,andusuallyoffers,foraconsiderabledistanceoneachsideofthecanyon,barrenandimpervioussurfacestotherains.Wherestratarestonexposedsofterbeds,theseareunderminedfromthefront,andinthiswayrecessionisbroughtabout.

*Justaswheatflourgettingwetonthesurfaceprotectstheportionbelowfromdampness.Therainfallisoftensoslight,also,thatasurfaceisunchangedforyears.Ioncesawsomewagontracksthat

weremadebyourpartythreeyearsbefore.FrompeculiarcircumstancesIwasabletoidentifythem.

**RobertBrewsterStantonexplainedthisveryclearlyinhisinvestigationsfortheCanadianPacificRailwayintothecausesofland-slidesonthatline.

InthebasinoftheColoradoarefoundinperfectionalltheextraordinaryconditionsthatareneededtobringforthmammoth


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canyons.TheheadwatersofalltheimportanttributariesareINVARIABLYINTHEHIGHESTREGIONSandatalongdistancefromtheirmouths,sothatthefloodwatershavemanymilesofopportunitytorunaracewiththecomparativelyfeebleerosiveforcesofdesertlands.Themainstream-coursesarethusintheloweraridregionsandinsedimentaryformations,whiletheirwater-supplycomesfromfaraway.Thedeepestgorges,therefore,willbefoundwheretherainfallisleast,unlessdiminishingaltitudeinterferes.Thusthegreatestgorgeofthewholebasin,theGrandCanyon,istheonefarthestfromthesourcesofsupply,andinthedriestarea,butone,ofthewholedrainagesystem.Itendsabruptlywiththeterminationofthehigharidplateauwhichmadeitpossible,buthadthisplateauextendedfarther,theGrandCanyonwouldalsohaveextendedasimilardistance.Itisplainthenthatthecuttingofthesecanyonsdependsontheamountofwater(snowisincluded)whichmayfallinthehighmountains,thecanyonsthemselvesbeinginthedrierdistricts.Itisalsoclearthatif,bysomechance,theprecipitationofthehighsourcesshouldincrease,thecorrasionofthestream-bedsinthecanyonswouldlikewiseincreaseandoutrunwithstillgreatereasetheerosionoftheirimmediatesurroundings.Ontheotherhand,iftheprecipitationinthearidsurroundingsshouldincrease,thewearingdownofthesidewallswouldforatime--tillcoveredbydebrisandvegetation--goonmorerapidlytill,insteadofCanyonsoftheColoradoRivertype,therewouldbedeep,sharpvalleys,orwide

valleys,accordingtotheamountofdifferencebetweentheprecipitationofthelowlandsandthehigh.Wherethetwowerenearlythesame,thatis,abalanceofprecipitation,*theslopesmightberoundedandverdure-clad,thoughthiswoulddependontheAMOUNTofprecipitation.OnlowerSnakeRiverachangeseemstobegoingon.Theformercanyon-cliffsarecoveredbydebrisandvegetation,butinplacestheolddrycliff-linescanbediscernedbeneathlikeaskeleton.Theprecipitationtherehasnotbeengreatenoughtodestroytheoldlines--onlyenoughtomaskthem.

*Therecouldbeabalanceofprecipitationandstillverylittlesnow-orrainfall,ortheymightbeverygreat.

The"innergorge"oftheGrandCanyonappearstohavebeencutfarmorerapidlythantheouterone,andatamuchlaterperiod;werethisnotthecasetherewouldbenoinnergorge.Itisasingularfactthatsomesidecanyons,theKanab,forexample,whilenowpossessingnorunningwater,oratbestapunyrivulet,anddependingfortheircorrasiononintermittentfloods,meetonequaltermsthegreatColorado,thegiantthatneverforasecondceasesitsferociousattack.AdmittingthatthesharperdeclivityoftheKanabwouldenhanceitspowerofcorrasion,neverthelessweshouldexpecttoseeitapproachtheGrandCanyonbyleapsandbounds,liketheHavasupaifartherdown,but,onthecontrary,therearepartsthatappeartobeatastandstillincorrasion,orevenfillingup,and

itsfloorisaregulardescent,exceptforthelastthreeorfourmileswherethecanyoniscloggedbyhugerocksthatseemtohavefallenfromabove.Themaximumheightofitspresentflood-watersisaboutsixfeet,provedbyafern-coveredcalcareousdeposit,projectingsomefifteenfeet,causedbyaspring(Shower-BathSpring)onthesideofthewall,sevenoreightmilesabovethemouth,whichisneverpermittedbythefloodstobuildnearerthefloorofthecanyon.Asuspicionarises,oncontemplatingsomeoftheseapparentdiscrepancies,thattheprevailingconditionsofcorrasionarenotwhattheywereatsomeearlierperiod,whentheyweresuchthatit


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wasrenderedmorerapidandviolent;thattherewasperhapsanepochwhenthesedeep-cuttributarycanyonscarriedperennialstreams,andwhenthevolumeoftheColoradoitselfwasmanytimesgreater,possessingamultipliedcorrasivepower,whiletheadjacentareaswereaboutasaridasnow.Atsuchatime,perhaps,theColoradoperformedthemainworkoftheinnergorge,theKanab,andsimilaraffluents,theirdeepnowratherevenlygradedcanyons.Suchanincreaseofvolume,ifwesupposetheariditytoremainasnow,couldhavecomeaboutonlybyanincreaseofprecipitationonthemountainsummits.DuringtheGlacialEpoch,theRockyMountainsummitswereconsiderablyglaciated,theamountvaryingaccordingtoaltitudeandlatitude.ThegeneraltopographyoftheColoradoRiverwasaboutasitisto-day,andtherainfallinthevalleysprobablynearlythesame,oratleastonlyalittlegreater.Inotherwords,theconditionswerethoseofto-dayintensified.Insummer,then,theamountofwaterseekingoutletbythesedrainagechannelstotheseawasenormouslymultiplied,andthecorrasivepowerwascorrespondinglyaugmented.Whentheicecapsfinallybegantopermanentlydiminish,thesummerfloodsweredoubtlessterrific.ThewatersoftheColoradonowriseintheGrandCanyon,onthemeltingofthesnowsinthedistantmountains,fromfortytoonehundredfeet;therisemustthenhaveamountedtofromonehundredtofourhundredormore.TheKanabheadsintwoveryhighregions--thePinkCliffsandtheKaibab.Thoughprobablynothighenoughtobeheavily

glaciatedtheywerehighenoughtoreceiveanincreasedsnowfallandtoholdit,oraportionofit,overfromoneyeartoanother.Thusthecanyonshavingtheiroriginonthesehighregionswouldbegivenperennialstreams,withtorrentialfloodseachsummer,comparedwithwhichanythingthatnowcomesdowntheKanabwouldbeamererivulet.ThesummitoftheKaibabiscoveredwithpeculiarpocket-likebasinshavingnoapparentoutlets.Thesewerepossiblyglacialsinks,conductingawaysomeofthesurpluswaterfromthemeltingsnowandicebysubterraneanchannels.Itseemsprobable,therefore,thatglacialflood-waterswereanimportantfactorintheformationofthecanyonsoftheColorado.Ifthissuppositioniscorrectitwouldaccount,atleastinameasure,forthatdistinctimpressionofarrestedactivityonereceivesfromthepresentconditionsobtaining

there.*

*Somecanyonfloors,wherethereisnopermanentlargestream,appeartohavealtogetherceaseddescending.DuttonsaysofthosewhichdraintheTerracePlateaus:"Manyofthemareactuallyfillingup,thefloodsbeingunabletocarryawayallthesandandclaywhichtheinfrequentrainswashintothem."--TertiaryHistory,p.50.Seealsopp.196and228Ib.

Thedrainageattheedgesofmostcanyonsisbackandawayfromthegorgeitself.Thereasonisthattherainscannotflowevenlyoveracanyonbrink,owingtoirregularitiesofsurface,andoncean

irregulardrainageisestablished,thewaterseekstheeasiestroad.Asidecanyonisformed,drainingacertainarea.Anotherisformedelsewhere,andanother,andsoontillalldrainageisthroughthesetributariesandawayfromthebrink,bymoreorlesscircuitouschannelstothemainstream.Thisbackwarddrainageleavestheimmediatebrink,or"rim,"tillthelast,initsworkoferosionandcorrasion,andtherimconsequentlyislefthigherthantheregionawayfromit.ThiseffectofabackwarddrainageisveryplainonbothsidesoftheGrandCanyon,thoughitissomewhatassisted,onthenorthatleast,bythebackwarddipofthestrata.Itmaybe


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modifiedbyotherconditions,sothatitwouldnotalwaysbethecase.

ThebasinoftheColorado,exceptingthatpartbelowthemouthoftheVirgenandaportionamongthe"parks"ofthewesternslopeoftheRockyMountainrange,isalmostentirelyaplateauregion.Someoftheplateausareverydry;othersriseabovethearidzoneandarewellwatered.Thelatterarecalledthe"HighPlateaus."Theyreachanaltitudeofeleventhousandfeetabovethesea.TheyareeastoftheGreatBasin,andwiththeotherplateausformanareacalledbyPowell"ThePlateauProvince."Eastwardstilltheplateausmergeintothe"parks."TheHighPlateaus,asatopographicalfeature,areasoutherncontinuationoftheWasatchMountains.TheyterminateonthesouthintheMarkagunt,thePaunsagunt,andtheAquariusPlateaus.TheextremesouthernextremitiesofthetwoformerarecomposedofmightyprecipicesofcolumnarlyerodedlimestonecalledthePinkCliffs.HereisthebeginningoftheTerracePlateaus,likewiseboundedbyvertical,barrencliffs.BetweentheHighPlateausandtheparks,theplateausmaybecalled,forconvenience,MesaPlateaus,astheyaregenerallyoutlinedbyverticalcliffs.ThisisthecasealsosouthoftheendoftheHighPlateauswhere,steppingdownthegreatterraces,wearriveattheregionimmediatelyadjacenttotheGrandCanyon,composedoffourplateaus,threeofthemofmesacharacter,theShewits,Uinkaret,Kanab,andKaibab;andupattheheadofMarbleCanyonafifth,theParia,whilestillfarthertothe

north-eastwardistheKaiparowitz.TheedgesoftheseMesaPlateaus,precipitouscliffs,stretchformanymilesacrossthearidlandlikemountainrangessplitasunder.Thisregion,lyingbetweentheHighPlateaus,theGrandWash,theHenryMountains,andtheColorado,isperhapsthemostfascinatingofallthebasin.Thereliefmapatpage41givesthelargerpartofit.Inthebasintherearealsogreatmountainmasses,thefountainheadsofthewaterswhichhavecarvedthecanyons.TheseareUinta,Zuni,SanFrancisco,Henry,PineValley,Uinkaret,BeaverDam,Virgen,Navajo,LaSal,andothers,somereachinganaltitudeofmorethantwelvethousandfeet.Thehighestpeaksofthese,andofcoursethoseoftheContinentalDivideontheeast,whichfurnishalargeproportionofthewateroftheColorado,andtheWindRiverMountainsontheextremenorth,have

snow-banksthroughoutthesummer.ToshowhowdependenttheColoradoisonthehighpeaksforitsflood-waters,IwillmentionthatitisnottillthesnowsofthesehighaltitudesarefiercelyattackedbythesuninMayandJunethattheriverhasitsannualgreatrise.Itwouldtakeonlyaslightloweringofthemeanannualtemperaturenowtofurnishthesepeakswithicecaps.Therainfallintheloweraridregionsisfromthreetoteninches,increasingnorthwardtofifteenandtwenty-five.Onthepeaks,ofcourse,itismuchgreater.Almostanyclimatecanbehad,fromthehotaridtothewetfrigid.Onthelowerstretches,fromMohavedown,thethermometerinsummerstandsaround112degreesF.agreatdealofthetime,andreaches118degreesF.YetDr.CouessaidhefeltitnomorethanhedidthesummerheatofNewYorkorWashington.*Inwinterthetemperatureat

thebottomoftheGrandCanyonisverymild,andflowersbloommostofthetime.OneNovemberIdescendedfromthesnow-coveredtopoftheKaibabtotheGrandCanyonatthemouthoftheKanab,whereIwasabletobatheintheopenairwithentirecomfort.

*IwasattheNeedlesonesummerforabrieftime,andtheairseemedveryoppressivetome.

Therearesixchieftopographicalfeatures,canyons,cliffs,valleys,


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mesaplateaus,highplateaus,mountains.Therearetwogranddivisions:thelowlandordesert,belowtheVirgen,andtheplateau,butthetopographyoftheimmediaterivercourseseparatesitselfintofourparts,theGreenRiverValley,thecanyon,thevalley-canyon,andthealluvial.Thecanyonpartisthelongest,occupyingabouttwo-thirdsofthewhole,orabout1200miles.Itiscutmainlythroughtheplateaus.ThelastofthesesouthwardistheColorado,avastupheavalreachingfromthelowerendoftheGrandCanyonsouth-easttoaboutwherethe34thparallelcrossesthewesternlineofNewMexico.LieutenantWheelerseveraltimesclaimsthehonourofnamingit(1868-71),butthenameoccursonLieutenantIves'smapof1858.Thisplateaubreakssharplyalongitssouth-westlinetothelowlanddistrict,andonitsnorth-westerlyedgeslopestotheLittleColorado.Itbearsanoblepineforest,andfromitssummitrisetoover12,000feetthevolcanicpeaksoftheSanFranciscoMountains.ItsnorthernedgeistheGrandCanyon,whichseparatesitfromitskindredontheotherside.TheseandtheColoradoPlateaurisetofrom6000to8000feetabovesea-level,anditisthroughthishugemassthattheriverhasgroundouttheGrandCanyon,bycorradingitsbeddowntremendously,thebottomattheendbeingonly840feetabovethesea,whereasthestartatthemouthoftheLittleColoradois2690.Yethereitisalready3500feetbelowthesurfaceattheendofMarbleCanyon,which,separatedonlybythedeepcanyonoftheLittleColorado,ispracticallyanorthward

continuationoftheGrandCanyonitself.Astheriverruns,theGrandCanyonis2171/2mileslong.Tothismaybeaddedthe651/2milesofMarble,givingacontinuouschasmof283mile

Documents

The Romance of the Colorado River by Dellenbaugh, Frederick Samuel, 1853-1935