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Straight Talk AVLONAbout Conditioning ... Discover the causes of
hair damage andhow to minimize it ~Uncover the facts about the
different types ~of conditioners and what they do for h a i r <
J ~ -
th .C:) Learn e proper way to protect, repatrand create fabulous
finishes!
The following series of four articles werewrinen by Ali N. Syed,
president and mastechemist of AvIan Indusuies, Inc. Theyoriginally
appeared in ShopTdk magazine toassist the professional hairstylisr
in providingthe very bese in hair care.This is the fust segment of
an AvianProfessional Education Series, with otherinformative issues
to follow. For easy referenyou may want to plare this brochure, and
tothers to come, in a notebook.
PROPER CONDmONINGWhat is meant by
the word "conditioning'" Basically, conditioning meansattempting
to restoreor maintain the tensile strength of hairso that it can
withstand the effects ofcombing, brushing,
t r ea tmen ts ,especially overprocess ing ,cannot bereversed
byany kind ofcondi t ioningt r e a tmen t s .However, suchdamage
can be minimized withcertain state-of-the-art conditioningrelaxers
and permanem wave systems available in the marketplace.
iog the hair to some extent.There are four basic causes ofhair
damage: mechanical (comb-ing/styling), shampooing, weatherand
chemical treatments. Each ofthese causes will be discussed further
in future issues of ShopTalk.
Hair care professionals, whetherthey're stylists or chemists, a
realways trying to findways of eliminating or Damage causedat least
minimizing the effects of hair damage. by chemIcalThe most
effective treatments...can
: ~ ~ ~ a o n ~ c a l , S h : ~ ~ : ~ ~ not be reverseding and
weather-related by...condition-hair damage is proper ing
treatments.conditioning. Damagecaused by chemical
CAUSES of HAIR DAMAGE
The Right Way toCondition HairPart Iby Ali N. Syed
We, as hair care professionals,are engaged in the art and
scienceof beautifying hair; a notable pursuit that has been around
for centuries. Modern techniques of hairbeautification range from
the simple acts of shampooing, combingand brushing, to chemically
treating hair with relaxers, permanentwaves and/or h.3ir
coloring.
Whenever excessively curly hairis modified to a relaxed
(straightened) or permanently waved state,we gain better control of
hair; butin the process, we end lip damag-
(Continued on reverse side.. .)
SHOl'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990
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-Conditioning the Hair, Pan I con't.
TUIPER.\Tl:RE YS ,\.,\101::-''Of C O : \ " l J I T l o ; ~ . ;
nADSOIUlED TilE !lAIR
TIME
HEAT
Ali N. Sycd is president and mas-ter chemist, Avian Industries,
Inc.
As the temperature of hair isincreased, the greater the
possibility of conditioners penetrating thecortex. As shown in
Figure 1> penetration is much greater when hairis about
60-degrees centigradethan when it is at the normal environmental
temperature of 25degrees centigrade. A temperatureof 60-degrees
centigrade is easilyachieved at the medium setting ofan electric
heat cap.
when they can do the most good.Even when the chemicals arefirst
rinsed from the hair, the pHdeclines' only partially (down to
about 10.0 with relaxers and 7.0with permanent waves). The
hairis still alkaline and the cuticlesremain partially open. This
represents the second best oppor tuni tyto condit ion the hair once
againbefore completely closing the cuticles with neutralizing
shampoos orsolutions. But remember, condi-tioning at these times
can only beaccomplished with systems thatprovide such features.
",
FIGURE 2
"- - - - - - - " , . " " ~TI.\lE IN MI:-'l:Tf.S '\,
As the time of contact betweenhair and the conditioner
increases,the degree of conditioner penetrat ion into the cortex
increases. AsFigure 2 illustrates, the condition-
' ; - r = ~ ~ ~ ~ : ; : ; : = = : ; = = = = : = i l iog action
continues toI Tlllt:\'$.UlOl'i''''' be product ive up
toO.c,O'"lJl...ONF.K, \HSOIWt:l l INTm; U,\l1I 25-30 minutes.
After
that time, absorptionreaches its maximum.It is safe, therefore,
toconclude t ha t condi tioners should be lefton the hair, with
aplastic cap, for 25-30minutes. The use of ahood dryer willenhance
the conditioning effect.
-2-
ELEVATED pHThe higher the pH level of hair,the more widley open
are the cuticles. Although hair is in its mostvulnerable state
under these con
dit ions, the opportunity for conditioners to penetrate deep
into thecortex layer of the hair is at itsg re at es t. (When
cuticles areclosed, it is difficult for conditioners to penet ra te
in this way. If theydo, an extended amount of time isrequired.)
When relaxers or permanentwave solutions are applied to hair,the
pH becomes very high (about13.0 with relaxers and 9.5 withpermanent
waves). Some premiumbrands have p ro tec tiv e an drestorative
conditioners built rightinto the chemical systems so thatthey can
go to work in the hair,
only on fine, limp ha ir or badlydamaged hair. Conditioners
containing softening agents, humec-tants and highly
concentratedemollients, such as creme conditioners and
moisturizers, should beused on medium to coarse hair orhair that is
very dry.
To achieve a maximized result,sufficient amounts of
conditioningagents must penetrate deep intothe cortex of the hair.
This occursonly under one or a combinationof the following
circumstances: anelevated pH, heat and time.
".'"
11
shampooing, weather and, tosome extent, chemical treatments.It
also involves the giving of certain cosmetic properties
representative of healthy hair.The following properties of hairare
the goals and evidences ofeffective conditioning: Ease of wetand
dry combing; elimination ofstatic electricity; minimal hair
lossduring we t and dry combing; softand silky feel; minimization
ofConditioners porosity; extrasheen (due to thecontaining tight
realignmentexcessive of cuticles);
amounts 01' improved body,:J an d enhancedproteins...
manageability.should ...be Hair chemistshave an ongoingused on
fine, mission to formulimp hair... late conditionersthat address
thesehair properties.It's important to keep in mindthat the
conditioning needs of hairfibers vary according to their texture.
For example, fine hairrequires increased body, whi lecoarse hair
can use added softness. It's apparent, then, that onetype of
conditioner cannot beused on all hair textures with thebest
results.
Conditioners containing excessive amounts of proteins, such
asreconstructors, should be used
FIGURE ISHOI'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990
