24
The Potential Use of Organically Grown Dye Plants in the Organic Textile Industry: Experiences and Results on Cultivation and Yields of Dyer’s Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L.), Dyer’s Knotweed ( Polygonum tinctorium Ait.), and Weld (Reseda luteola L.) Anna Hartl Christian R. Vogl ABSTRACT. The organic cultivation of dye plants for the certified nat- ural textiles industry is an emerging and promising sector of organic farming. In 1999 a field trial was done with different provenances of Anna Hartl is Freelance Researcher and Christian R. Vogl is Assistant Professor for organic farming, Institute for Organic Farming, University of Agricultural Sciences, Gregor Mendel Strasse 33, A-1180 Vienna, Austria. Address correspondence to: Christian R. Vogl at the above address (E-mail: vogl@ pegasus.boku.ac.at). The authors thank: A. Biertümpfel, A. Vetter, and G. Wurl, who provided seeds and advice for cultivation, as well as for indigo extraction; M. Weiser for the dyeing and analysis of dyed fabrics; A. Reiter, G. Bindeus, S. Siebenhandel and U. Ludescher for the chemical analysis of dyestuff content; and the students in their department, who helped them with practical field work. The authors also thank Christina Westermayer and Christina Flitner for their valuable comments on the manuscript for this paper. The results presented in this paper are part of the research project L 1043/96 “Natu- ral textiles made of organic fibers,” financed by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Agri- culture, Forestry, Environment, and Water Management and the Federal Ministry of Transport, Innovation, and Technology. Journal of Sustainable Agriculture, Vol. 23(2) 2003 http://www.haworthpress.com/store/product.asp?sku=J064 2003 by The Haworth Press, Inc. All rights reserved. 10.1300/J064v23n02_04 17

The Potential Use - orgprints.orgorgprints.org/6930/1/JSA23_2_2003_dye_plants.pdf · and Weld (Reseda luteola L.) Anna Hartl Christian R. Vogl ABSTRACT. ... seeds of C. Golden Rod

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The Potential Useof Organically Grown Dye Plantsin the Organic Textile Industry

Experiences and Resultson Cultivation and Yields

of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L)Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)

and Weld (Reseda luteola L)

Anna HartlChristian R Vogl

ABSTRACT The organic cultivation of dye plants for the certified nat-ural textiles industry is an emerging and promising sector of organicfarming In 1999 a field trial was done with different provenances of

Anna Hartl is Freelance Researcher and Christian R Vogl is Assistant Professor fororganic farming Institute for Organic Farming University of Agricultural SciencesGregor Mendel Strasse 33 A-1180 Vienna Austria

Address correspondence to Christian R Vogl at the above address (E-mail voglpegasusbokuacat)

The authors thank A Biertuumlmpfel A Vetter and G Wurl who provided seeds andadvice for cultivation as well as for indigo extraction M Weiser for the dyeing andanalysis of dyed fabrics A Reiter G Bindeus S Siebenhandel and U Ludescher forthe chemical analysis of dyestuff content and the students in their department whohelped them with practical field work The authors also thank Christina Westermayerand Christina Flitner for their valuable comments on the manuscript for this paper

The results presented in this paper are part of the research project L 104396 ldquoNatu-ral textiles made of organic fibersrdquo financed by the Austrian Federal Ministry of Agri-culture Forestry Environment and Water Management and the Federal Ministry ofTransport Innovation and Technology

Journal of Sustainable Agriculture Vol 23(2) 2003httpwwwhaworthpresscomstoreproductaspsku=J064

2003 by The Haworth Press Inc All rights reserved101300J064v23n02_04 17

Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonumtinctorium Ait) and Weld (Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms inLower Austria Yields dyestuff content and quality parameters were an-alyzed Dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1 ofDyerrsquos Chamomile (flower heads) between 11 and 18 t ha1 Signifi-cant differences were found between seed Weld provenances as well asbetween those of Dyerrsquos Chamomile The total leaf dry matter of DyerrsquosKnotweed (2 cuts) ranged at both sites on average 31 t ha1 Seed prove-nances did not show differences The total flavonoid content of Weldranged between 153 and 400 of Dyerrsquos Chamomile between 084and 15 The content of indican in Dyerrsquos Knotweed ranged between050 and 145 of leaf dry matter the calculated theoretical content ofindigo ranged between 022 and 064 of leaf dry matter The generaluse fastness properties differ according to species and provenance Bothhigh and low values were achieved The data on the cultivation of dyeplants in organic farming show promising results Research should ad-dress improvement in yields and quality development of dyestuff ex-tracts and optimization of dyeing methods Research on dye plants needsa systemic look at the whole chain including producers processors tradeand consumers [Article copies available for a fee from The Haworth Docu-ment Delivery Service 1-800-HAWORTH E-mail address ltdocdeliveryhaworthpresscomgt Website lthttpwwwHaworthPresscomgt 2003 by TheHaworth Press Inc All rights reserved]

KEYWORDS Dye plants organic farming natural textiles natural col-ors renewable resources

INTRODUCTION

Until the 19th century natural colors obtained from plants and ani-mals1 as well as mineral pigments were used for coloring From theMiddle Ages on the cultivation of dye plants and the further processingand dyeing became an important economic factor in Europe eg Woad(Isatis tinctoria L) in Thuumlringen Germany and Madder (Rubia tinctorumL) in The Netherlands and southern areas of France (Meyer 1997)With the invention of chemical synthetic dyes (aniline in 1856 syn-thetic alizarin in 1869 and synthetic indigo in 1878 Hofmann 1989)natural dyes lost their economic significance

At present dyeing with dye plants is done by artisans craftsmen andgreen-minded companies at three different technological levels (Hartl1997)

18 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

a At the handicraft level one or two people use simple equipmentsuch as pots gas cookers and adapted washing-machines Theymainly dye wool (fleece and yarns) and silk because these materi-als can be more easily dyed than cellulose fibers such as cottonlinen or hemp Products offered are dyed knitting wool and woolfleece scarves pullovers socks etc

b At the small enterprises level machines are used which are alsocommon in conventional dyehouses (eg 1800 l-kettles smallkettles for producing the dyeing liquor by boiling out dye stuff fa-cilities to lift the yarns from the kettle a centrifugal drier and aheat pump) At these facilities 50 kg of yarn can be dyed per unitfor larger amounts conventional dyehouses are rented

c For dyeing at the industrial level dyeing systems have been de-veloped which consist of dyestuff pre- and post-treatments andtextile auxiliaries These systems are applicable to various materi-als (eg wool silk cotton linen hemp leather accessories madeof horn nutshells mother-of-pearl) and various dyeing machines

Dried dye plants are used at all levels Boiling out the plants in waterthe dyestuff is extracted by the dyers themselves Dyeing with readymade dyestuff extracts on the industrial scale is still at the research anddevelopment level

Since the 90s research institutions in Germany Italy EnglandFrance the Netherlands and Austria have been dealing with researchfor the re-introduction of natural dyes The reasons for this new scien-tific interest are based on a growing awareness to find sustainable andnon-toxic alternatives to synthetic dyes a growing market of naturaltextiles and the search for additional economically viable alternativecrops for farmers

The aim of our research project is to provide information regardingresearch the cultivation and processing of organic fiber and dye plantsfor use with natural textiles as well as the trade and distribution of theseproducts In this paper we summarize published data on dye plants andwe present the results of our field trial with three species of dye plantsThe aim is to give the first quantification of yield dyestuff content anddyeing quality of three seed provenances per species cultivated underthe conditions prescribed by organic farming Dyestuff content anddyeing quality are also compared with samples of those species com-mercially available andor used by dyers

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 19

RELEVANT LITERATURE

Selection of Plant Species Suitable for Modern Cultivationand Dyeing

About 1100 plant species can be used for dyeing (Hofmann 1989)Therefore it is an important aim in research to screen and select specieswhich fit for modern sustainable cultivation techniques as well as fordyeing on a large scale

At the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft (Germany) 108dye plant species are assessed on the basis of their suitability for moderncultivation systems on yields and on dyeing quality Of these species19 species were considered as useful for cultivation and dyestuff pro-duction Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Weld (Reseda luteola) CanadianGolden Rod (Solidago canadensis) Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria) and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium) are consid-ered to play a decisive role in future dye plant cultivation and process-ing (Biertuumlmpfel et al 2000) Nevertheless other species may alsobecome important for dyeing as the recent example of Rhubarb (Rheumrhabarbarum) shows it is perfectly suitable for the dyeing and tanningof leather and is already used in practice by one company (Schellenberget al 1999)

Cultivation Harvesting and First Processing

Depending on the species dye plants have not been bred or at leastup to now only to a small extent They are therefore extremely variablein their morphological and phytochemical characteristics Registeredvarieties do not exist yet There are only different provenances of seedavailable Therefore the aim of a current research project conducted bythe Thuumlringer Landesanstalt is to improve provenances concerningyield dyestuff content and agrotechnological suitability (Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999)

Sowing

All dye plants except Madder have extremely fine seeds and there-fore high requirements on soil preparation The drilling of dye plantshas shown to be cheaper than planting (Vetter 1994) It is possible touse drilling for all dye plant species which were tested by the ThuumlringerLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft except Canadian Golden Rod The

20 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

seeds of C Golden Rod have a 1000-kernel-mass of 003-006 g and aretoo small for drilling The higher costs for planting however are com-pensated by the fact that this species has a useful life of several years(Wurl 1997)

Weed Control

Weed control in dye plants is necessary especially in the early growthstages For conventional cultivation methods no herbicides are legallyregistered in Europe and therefore the risk of damages due to the use re-mains with the farmers The Thuumlringer Landesanstalt as well as theLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft des Landes Brandenburg are con-ducting research on the use of herbicides in dye plants (Wurl 1997Vetter et al 1999 Adam et al 1997 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) Weldand Dyerrsquos Knotweed have reacted sensitively to the tested herbicides(Vetter et al 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) The published cultiva-tion instructions (TLL 1999) also explain techniques of mechanicalweed control These techniques are the classical procedures of propermechanical weed management used by organic farmers

Fertilization

Dyerrsquos Knotweed has a high demand for nitrogen With regard tophosphorus and potassium it is not so demanding The other speciesWeld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile have a low demand for nitrogen Exces-sive nitrogen fertilization leads to negative effects on yield the dyestuffcontent of Weld is reduced by high levels of nitrogen fertilization andDyerrsquos Chamomile should not be fertilized with nitrogen at all becausethis would reduce the development of flower heads (Table 1) (TLL1999)

Supply of nutrients under conditions of organic farming for the culti-vation of spices and herbs by organic manure proper crop rotation andpreceding crops (incl catch crops) is done successfully at many farms(Hartl amp Vogl 2000a) and should be possible for dye plants too

Harvest

The same harvesting equipment that is used in herb and spices culti-vation can be used for dye plants too (Vetter 1997) High harvestingcosts are caused by the harvest of flowers followed by roots and leavesor whole plants (Vetter 1994) Dye plants of which the whole plant or

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 21

the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonumtinctorium Ait) and Weld (Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms inLower Austria Yields dyestuff content and quality parameters were an-alyzed Dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1 ofDyerrsquos Chamomile (flower heads) between 11 and 18 t ha1 Signifi-cant differences were found between seed Weld provenances as well asbetween those of Dyerrsquos Chamomile The total leaf dry matter of DyerrsquosKnotweed (2 cuts) ranged at both sites on average 31 t ha1 Seed prove-nances did not show differences The total flavonoid content of Weldranged between 153 and 400 of Dyerrsquos Chamomile between 084and 15 The content of indican in Dyerrsquos Knotweed ranged between050 and 145 of leaf dry matter the calculated theoretical content ofindigo ranged between 022 and 064 of leaf dry matter The generaluse fastness properties differ according to species and provenance Bothhigh and low values were achieved The data on the cultivation of dyeplants in organic farming show promising results Research should ad-dress improvement in yields and quality development of dyestuff ex-tracts and optimization of dyeing methods Research on dye plants needsa systemic look at the whole chain including producers processors tradeand consumers [Article copies available for a fee from The Haworth Docu-ment Delivery Service 1-800-HAWORTH E-mail address ltdocdeliveryhaworthpresscomgt Website lthttpwwwHaworthPresscomgt 2003 by TheHaworth Press Inc All rights reserved]

KEYWORDS Dye plants organic farming natural textiles natural col-ors renewable resources

INTRODUCTION

Until the 19th century natural colors obtained from plants and ani-mals1 as well as mineral pigments were used for coloring From theMiddle Ages on the cultivation of dye plants and the further processingand dyeing became an important economic factor in Europe eg Woad(Isatis tinctoria L) in Thuumlringen Germany and Madder (Rubia tinctorumL) in The Netherlands and southern areas of France (Meyer 1997)With the invention of chemical synthetic dyes (aniline in 1856 syn-thetic alizarin in 1869 and synthetic indigo in 1878 Hofmann 1989)natural dyes lost their economic significance

At present dyeing with dye plants is done by artisans craftsmen andgreen-minded companies at three different technological levels (Hartl1997)

18 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

a At the handicraft level one or two people use simple equipmentsuch as pots gas cookers and adapted washing-machines Theymainly dye wool (fleece and yarns) and silk because these materi-als can be more easily dyed than cellulose fibers such as cottonlinen or hemp Products offered are dyed knitting wool and woolfleece scarves pullovers socks etc

b At the small enterprises level machines are used which are alsocommon in conventional dyehouses (eg 1800 l-kettles smallkettles for producing the dyeing liquor by boiling out dye stuff fa-cilities to lift the yarns from the kettle a centrifugal drier and aheat pump) At these facilities 50 kg of yarn can be dyed per unitfor larger amounts conventional dyehouses are rented

c For dyeing at the industrial level dyeing systems have been de-veloped which consist of dyestuff pre- and post-treatments andtextile auxiliaries These systems are applicable to various materi-als (eg wool silk cotton linen hemp leather accessories madeof horn nutshells mother-of-pearl) and various dyeing machines

Dried dye plants are used at all levels Boiling out the plants in waterthe dyestuff is extracted by the dyers themselves Dyeing with readymade dyestuff extracts on the industrial scale is still at the research anddevelopment level

Since the 90s research institutions in Germany Italy EnglandFrance the Netherlands and Austria have been dealing with researchfor the re-introduction of natural dyes The reasons for this new scien-tific interest are based on a growing awareness to find sustainable andnon-toxic alternatives to synthetic dyes a growing market of naturaltextiles and the search for additional economically viable alternativecrops for farmers

The aim of our research project is to provide information regardingresearch the cultivation and processing of organic fiber and dye plantsfor use with natural textiles as well as the trade and distribution of theseproducts In this paper we summarize published data on dye plants andwe present the results of our field trial with three species of dye plantsThe aim is to give the first quantification of yield dyestuff content anddyeing quality of three seed provenances per species cultivated underthe conditions prescribed by organic farming Dyestuff content anddyeing quality are also compared with samples of those species com-mercially available andor used by dyers

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 19

RELEVANT LITERATURE

Selection of Plant Species Suitable for Modern Cultivationand Dyeing

About 1100 plant species can be used for dyeing (Hofmann 1989)Therefore it is an important aim in research to screen and select specieswhich fit for modern sustainable cultivation techniques as well as fordyeing on a large scale

At the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft (Germany) 108dye plant species are assessed on the basis of their suitability for moderncultivation systems on yields and on dyeing quality Of these species19 species were considered as useful for cultivation and dyestuff pro-duction Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Weld (Reseda luteola) CanadianGolden Rod (Solidago canadensis) Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria) and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium) are consid-ered to play a decisive role in future dye plant cultivation and process-ing (Biertuumlmpfel et al 2000) Nevertheless other species may alsobecome important for dyeing as the recent example of Rhubarb (Rheumrhabarbarum) shows it is perfectly suitable for the dyeing and tanningof leather and is already used in practice by one company (Schellenberget al 1999)

Cultivation Harvesting and First Processing

Depending on the species dye plants have not been bred or at leastup to now only to a small extent They are therefore extremely variablein their morphological and phytochemical characteristics Registeredvarieties do not exist yet There are only different provenances of seedavailable Therefore the aim of a current research project conducted bythe Thuumlringer Landesanstalt is to improve provenances concerningyield dyestuff content and agrotechnological suitability (Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999)

Sowing

All dye plants except Madder have extremely fine seeds and there-fore high requirements on soil preparation The drilling of dye plantshas shown to be cheaper than planting (Vetter 1994) It is possible touse drilling for all dye plant species which were tested by the ThuumlringerLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft except Canadian Golden Rod The

20 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

seeds of C Golden Rod have a 1000-kernel-mass of 003-006 g and aretoo small for drilling The higher costs for planting however are com-pensated by the fact that this species has a useful life of several years(Wurl 1997)

Weed Control

Weed control in dye plants is necessary especially in the early growthstages For conventional cultivation methods no herbicides are legallyregistered in Europe and therefore the risk of damages due to the use re-mains with the farmers The Thuumlringer Landesanstalt as well as theLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft des Landes Brandenburg are con-ducting research on the use of herbicides in dye plants (Wurl 1997Vetter et al 1999 Adam et al 1997 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) Weldand Dyerrsquos Knotweed have reacted sensitively to the tested herbicides(Vetter et al 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) The published cultiva-tion instructions (TLL 1999) also explain techniques of mechanicalweed control These techniques are the classical procedures of propermechanical weed management used by organic farmers

Fertilization

Dyerrsquos Knotweed has a high demand for nitrogen With regard tophosphorus and potassium it is not so demanding The other speciesWeld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile have a low demand for nitrogen Exces-sive nitrogen fertilization leads to negative effects on yield the dyestuffcontent of Weld is reduced by high levels of nitrogen fertilization andDyerrsquos Chamomile should not be fertilized with nitrogen at all becausethis would reduce the development of flower heads (Table 1) (TLL1999)

Supply of nutrients under conditions of organic farming for the culti-vation of spices and herbs by organic manure proper crop rotation andpreceding crops (incl catch crops) is done successfully at many farms(Hartl amp Vogl 2000a) and should be possible for dye plants too

Harvest

The same harvesting equipment that is used in herb and spices culti-vation can be used for dye plants too (Vetter 1997) High harvestingcosts are caused by the harvest of flowers followed by roots and leavesor whole plants (Vetter 1994) Dye plants of which the whole plant or

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 21

the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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a At the handicraft level one or two people use simple equipmentsuch as pots gas cookers and adapted washing-machines Theymainly dye wool (fleece and yarns) and silk because these materi-als can be more easily dyed than cellulose fibers such as cottonlinen or hemp Products offered are dyed knitting wool and woolfleece scarves pullovers socks etc

b At the small enterprises level machines are used which are alsocommon in conventional dyehouses (eg 1800 l-kettles smallkettles for producing the dyeing liquor by boiling out dye stuff fa-cilities to lift the yarns from the kettle a centrifugal drier and aheat pump) At these facilities 50 kg of yarn can be dyed per unitfor larger amounts conventional dyehouses are rented

c For dyeing at the industrial level dyeing systems have been de-veloped which consist of dyestuff pre- and post-treatments andtextile auxiliaries These systems are applicable to various materi-als (eg wool silk cotton linen hemp leather accessories madeof horn nutshells mother-of-pearl) and various dyeing machines

Dried dye plants are used at all levels Boiling out the plants in waterthe dyestuff is extracted by the dyers themselves Dyeing with readymade dyestuff extracts on the industrial scale is still at the research anddevelopment level

Since the 90s research institutions in Germany Italy EnglandFrance the Netherlands and Austria have been dealing with researchfor the re-introduction of natural dyes The reasons for this new scien-tific interest are based on a growing awareness to find sustainable andnon-toxic alternatives to synthetic dyes a growing market of naturaltextiles and the search for additional economically viable alternativecrops for farmers

The aim of our research project is to provide information regardingresearch the cultivation and processing of organic fiber and dye plantsfor use with natural textiles as well as the trade and distribution of theseproducts In this paper we summarize published data on dye plants andwe present the results of our field trial with three species of dye plantsThe aim is to give the first quantification of yield dyestuff content anddyeing quality of three seed provenances per species cultivated underthe conditions prescribed by organic farming Dyestuff content anddyeing quality are also compared with samples of those species com-mercially available andor used by dyers

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 19

RELEVANT LITERATURE

Selection of Plant Species Suitable for Modern Cultivationand Dyeing

About 1100 plant species can be used for dyeing (Hofmann 1989)Therefore it is an important aim in research to screen and select specieswhich fit for modern sustainable cultivation techniques as well as fordyeing on a large scale

At the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft (Germany) 108dye plant species are assessed on the basis of their suitability for moderncultivation systems on yields and on dyeing quality Of these species19 species were considered as useful for cultivation and dyestuff pro-duction Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Weld (Reseda luteola) CanadianGolden Rod (Solidago canadensis) Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria) and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium) are consid-ered to play a decisive role in future dye plant cultivation and process-ing (Biertuumlmpfel et al 2000) Nevertheless other species may alsobecome important for dyeing as the recent example of Rhubarb (Rheumrhabarbarum) shows it is perfectly suitable for the dyeing and tanningof leather and is already used in practice by one company (Schellenberget al 1999)

Cultivation Harvesting and First Processing

Depending on the species dye plants have not been bred or at leastup to now only to a small extent They are therefore extremely variablein their morphological and phytochemical characteristics Registeredvarieties do not exist yet There are only different provenances of seedavailable Therefore the aim of a current research project conducted bythe Thuumlringer Landesanstalt is to improve provenances concerningyield dyestuff content and agrotechnological suitability (Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999)

Sowing

All dye plants except Madder have extremely fine seeds and there-fore high requirements on soil preparation The drilling of dye plantshas shown to be cheaper than planting (Vetter 1994) It is possible touse drilling for all dye plant species which were tested by the ThuumlringerLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft except Canadian Golden Rod The

20 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

seeds of C Golden Rod have a 1000-kernel-mass of 003-006 g and aretoo small for drilling The higher costs for planting however are com-pensated by the fact that this species has a useful life of several years(Wurl 1997)

Weed Control

Weed control in dye plants is necessary especially in the early growthstages For conventional cultivation methods no herbicides are legallyregistered in Europe and therefore the risk of damages due to the use re-mains with the farmers The Thuumlringer Landesanstalt as well as theLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft des Landes Brandenburg are con-ducting research on the use of herbicides in dye plants (Wurl 1997Vetter et al 1999 Adam et al 1997 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) Weldand Dyerrsquos Knotweed have reacted sensitively to the tested herbicides(Vetter et al 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) The published cultiva-tion instructions (TLL 1999) also explain techniques of mechanicalweed control These techniques are the classical procedures of propermechanical weed management used by organic farmers

Fertilization

Dyerrsquos Knotweed has a high demand for nitrogen With regard tophosphorus and potassium it is not so demanding The other speciesWeld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile have a low demand for nitrogen Exces-sive nitrogen fertilization leads to negative effects on yield the dyestuffcontent of Weld is reduced by high levels of nitrogen fertilization andDyerrsquos Chamomile should not be fertilized with nitrogen at all becausethis would reduce the development of flower heads (Table 1) (TLL1999)

Supply of nutrients under conditions of organic farming for the culti-vation of spices and herbs by organic manure proper crop rotation andpreceding crops (incl catch crops) is done successfully at many farms(Hartl amp Vogl 2000a) and should be possible for dye plants too

Harvest

The same harvesting equipment that is used in herb and spices culti-vation can be used for dye plants too (Vetter 1997) High harvestingcosts are caused by the harvest of flowers followed by roots and leavesor whole plants (Vetter 1994) Dye plants of which the whole plant or

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 21

the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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RELEVANT LITERATURE

Selection of Plant Species Suitable for Modern Cultivationand Dyeing

About 1100 plant species can be used for dyeing (Hofmann 1989)Therefore it is an important aim in research to screen and select specieswhich fit for modern sustainable cultivation techniques as well as fordyeing on a large scale

At the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft (Germany) 108dye plant species are assessed on the basis of their suitability for moderncultivation systems on yields and on dyeing quality Of these species19 species were considered as useful for cultivation and dyestuff pro-duction Madder (Rubia tinctorum) Weld (Reseda luteola) CanadianGolden Rod (Solidago canadensis) Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria) and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium) are consid-ered to play a decisive role in future dye plant cultivation and process-ing (Biertuumlmpfel et al 2000) Nevertheless other species may alsobecome important for dyeing as the recent example of Rhubarb (Rheumrhabarbarum) shows it is perfectly suitable for the dyeing and tanningof leather and is already used in practice by one company (Schellenberget al 1999)

Cultivation Harvesting and First Processing

Depending on the species dye plants have not been bred or at leastup to now only to a small extent They are therefore extremely variablein their morphological and phytochemical characteristics Registeredvarieties do not exist yet There are only different provenances of seedavailable Therefore the aim of a current research project conducted bythe Thuumlringer Landesanstalt is to improve provenances concerningyield dyestuff content and agrotechnological suitability (Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999)

Sowing

All dye plants except Madder have extremely fine seeds and there-fore high requirements on soil preparation The drilling of dye plantshas shown to be cheaper than planting (Vetter 1994) It is possible touse drilling for all dye plant species which were tested by the ThuumlringerLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft except Canadian Golden Rod The

20 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

seeds of C Golden Rod have a 1000-kernel-mass of 003-006 g and aretoo small for drilling The higher costs for planting however are com-pensated by the fact that this species has a useful life of several years(Wurl 1997)

Weed Control

Weed control in dye plants is necessary especially in the early growthstages For conventional cultivation methods no herbicides are legallyregistered in Europe and therefore the risk of damages due to the use re-mains with the farmers The Thuumlringer Landesanstalt as well as theLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft des Landes Brandenburg are con-ducting research on the use of herbicides in dye plants (Wurl 1997Vetter et al 1999 Adam et al 1997 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) Weldand Dyerrsquos Knotweed have reacted sensitively to the tested herbicides(Vetter et al 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) The published cultiva-tion instructions (TLL 1999) also explain techniques of mechanicalweed control These techniques are the classical procedures of propermechanical weed management used by organic farmers

Fertilization

Dyerrsquos Knotweed has a high demand for nitrogen With regard tophosphorus and potassium it is not so demanding The other speciesWeld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile have a low demand for nitrogen Exces-sive nitrogen fertilization leads to negative effects on yield the dyestuffcontent of Weld is reduced by high levels of nitrogen fertilization andDyerrsquos Chamomile should not be fertilized with nitrogen at all becausethis would reduce the development of flower heads (Table 1) (TLL1999)

Supply of nutrients under conditions of organic farming for the culti-vation of spices and herbs by organic manure proper crop rotation andpreceding crops (incl catch crops) is done successfully at many farms(Hartl amp Vogl 2000a) and should be possible for dye plants too

Harvest

The same harvesting equipment that is used in herb and spices culti-vation can be used for dye plants too (Vetter 1997) High harvestingcosts are caused by the harvest of flowers followed by roots and leavesor whole plants (Vetter 1994) Dye plants of which the whole plant or

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 21

the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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seeds of C Golden Rod have a 1000-kernel-mass of 003-006 g and aretoo small for drilling The higher costs for planting however are com-pensated by the fact that this species has a useful life of several years(Wurl 1997)

Weed Control

Weed control in dye plants is necessary especially in the early growthstages For conventional cultivation methods no herbicides are legallyregistered in Europe and therefore the risk of damages due to the use re-mains with the farmers The Thuumlringer Landesanstalt as well as theLandesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft des Landes Brandenburg are con-ducting research on the use of herbicides in dye plants (Wurl 1997Vetter et al 1999 Adam et al 1997 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) Weldand Dyerrsquos Knotweed have reacted sensitively to the tested herbicides(Vetter et al 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1999) The published cultiva-tion instructions (TLL 1999) also explain techniques of mechanicalweed control These techniques are the classical procedures of propermechanical weed management used by organic farmers

Fertilization

Dyerrsquos Knotweed has a high demand for nitrogen With regard tophosphorus and potassium it is not so demanding The other speciesWeld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile have a low demand for nitrogen Exces-sive nitrogen fertilization leads to negative effects on yield the dyestuffcontent of Weld is reduced by high levels of nitrogen fertilization andDyerrsquos Chamomile should not be fertilized with nitrogen at all becausethis would reduce the development of flower heads (Table 1) (TLL1999)

Supply of nutrients under conditions of organic farming for the culti-vation of spices and herbs by organic manure proper crop rotation andpreceding crops (incl catch crops) is done successfully at many farms(Hartl amp Vogl 2000a) and should be possible for dye plants too

Harvest

The same harvesting equipment that is used in herb and spices culti-vation can be used for dye plants too (Vetter 1997) High harvestingcosts are caused by the harvest of flowers followed by roots and leavesor whole plants (Vetter 1994) Dye plants of which the whole plant or

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 21

the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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the leaves are used for obtaining dyestuff (like Weld and Dyerrsquos Knot-weed) can be harvested with the harvesters that are also used to harvestfodder Nevertheless it is important that the storage box at the harvesteris not too large and that it is emptied regularly The increase of tempera-ture in densely stocked piles reduces quality by the decomposition ofphytochemicals (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) As proved in a field trialunder practical management conditions (Biertuumlmpfel 1997) adaptedchamomile picking machines can be used for harvesting the flowerheads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile Data of yields per ha of dye plants areavailable only from field trials conducted on conventional farms (Table 2)

Except Dyerrsquos Knotweed whose dyestuff indigo is gained from freshplants all other dye plants require a quick and careful drying right afterharvesting to preserve phytochemicals until extraction The same dry-ing technology that is used in herb and spice production can also be usedfor drying dye plants (Dachler amp Pelzmann 1989) The drying method(temperature time spent in the dryer) and the degree to which the har-vested material is crushed have an influence on the content of phyto-chemicals in the dyeing substance and on the efficiency of the dyestuffextraction (Adam amp Dittmann 1999)

Dyestuff Content and Factors Influencing Quality

Like essential oils or tanning agents plant dyes are secondary plantmetabolites (Nultsch 1986) Dyestuff (Table 3) is contained in thewhole plant or only in certain parts like flowers leaves roots bark orwood (Hofmann 1989) Plant species always contain several compo-nents of dyestuff (cf Schweppe 1992 Roth et al 1992) and for manyplant species not all components have been identified yet (eg for Dyerrsquos

22 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 1 Recommended fertilization for selected dye plant species

Species Recommended fertilization (cultivation instructions TLL 1999)

N (kg ha1) P2O5 (kg ha1) K2O (kg ha1)

Weld Reseda luteola 0-60 50 250

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria no N-fertilization 30 70

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 150-200 no data available

Canadian Golden Rod Solidago canadensis 60-100 no data available no data available

Madder Rubia tinctorum 120-160 100 240

taking nitratemin in the soil into consideration

Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria L the main component has not yetbeen identified)

The dyestuff can be extracted from the dried plant material by usingdissolvent (eg water alcohol) The extraction method of indigo how-ever is different and more complicated Indigo is a vat dye Plants al-ways contain precursors of indigo Dyerrsquos Knotweed contains indicanand perhaps also indirubin (Schweppe 1992) The precursors are trans-formed via (enzymatic) hydrolysis into indoxyl which is transformedoxidatively into indigo

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 23

TABLE 2 Yields of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed (conven-tional farming)

Species Yield (t ha1) Literature cited

Weld Reseda luteola 35-7 dry matter yield of whole plants Wurl 1997

5 TLL (1999)

4-45 Adam amp Dittmann (1998)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile Anthemis tinctoria 2-25 dry matter yield of flower heads TLL (1997) Vetter et al (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium 20-30 fresh weight of whole plants TLL (1999)

TABLE 3 Dyestuff content of Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile and Dyerrsquos Knotweed(literature overview)

Species(plant organ containingdyestuff)

Dyestuff content ( dry matter) Literature cited

Weld 2-4 (luteolin luteolin-37-diglucoside luteolin-7-glucoside and apigenin) TLL (1997)

(whole plant especially 1-186 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

the blossoming sprouts) 1-29 on average 19 (content of flavonoids) Kaiser (1993)

25 total dyestuff content Adam amp Dittmann (1999)

Dyerrsquos Chamomile 4-5 dry matter of flower heads (type of dyestuff unknown) Vetter et al (1999)

(flower head) min 254 and max 682 (type of dyestuff unknown) Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

Dyerrsquos Knotweed 4-5 of leaves (dyestuff precursors) TLL (1999)

(fresh leaves) 255-449 indigo content in leaf dry matter Vetter et al (1999)

min 206 and max 637 indigo content in dry matter Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter (1999)

1-5 g indigokg leaf fresh weight Hill (1993)

32 indigo content in the leaves of the first cutting 16-19 in theleaves of the second cutting

Yonekawa (1993)

Calculated as the sum of luteolins (luteolin-37-glucoside luteolin-7-glucoside luteolin-8-0-glucoside orientin luteolin) and other flavonoids(apigenin kaempferol) Adam amp Dittmann (1999) Yonekawa (1993) does not provide information if -data refer to fresh weight or dry matter

Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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Vat dyes are organic pigments which are insoluble in water Duringthe dyeing process they can only be fixed on the fiber after beingtransformed into a soluble substance (leuco base) via reduction Thefibers are put into this soluble substance After oxidation in the air theindigo pigment is formed again and now set in the fiber (Hofmann1989)

The dyestuffs of Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (flavonoids) are mor-dant dyes They need a mordant to be fixed on the fiber in most casesmetal salts are used (Hofmann 1989)

The aim of dye plant cultivation should not only be a high hectareyield but also a product of high quality (which means high content ofvaluable phytochemicals) with few foreign elements and free of toxicresidues (Wurl 1997 Vetter 1997) The following factors have an in-fluence on quality (summarized according to Wurl 1997 Adam ampDittmann 1999 Vetter 1997 Biertuumlmpfel 1997)

bull Careful selection of the suitable site for cultivation taking into ac-count parameters of soil and climate

bull Use of appropriate provenances (seed purity germinating powerhomogeneity high yield high dyestuff content good suitabilityfor dyeing good technological suitability)

bull Proper management to ensure fast soil cover (higher plantingseeding density time of drilling or planting efficient weed controlcrop rotation irrigation)

bull Selection of the optimal harvesting time height of cutting dailyprogression

bull Gentle post-harvest treatment which guarantees a good quality(influence of temperature and drying time on dyestuff contentinfluence of the degree of reduction on dye yields during extrac-tion)

bull Cultivation of units large enough to achieve constant quality

The dyestuff content is an essential criterion for quality The metabo-lism of the different phytochemicals during the dyeing process is not yetclear ie which phytochemicals hinder and which promote the dyeingprocess The lack of standardized analytical methods has preventedcomparisons from being made among site influences seed provenanceand cultivation methods tested by various authors

24 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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MATERIALS AND METHODS

Scientific Field Trial

The field trial was conducted with Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemistinctoria L) Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) and Weld(Reseda luteola L) on two organic farms in Lower Austria (Glinzendorfand Doumlrfles Table 4) for the duration of one year The preceding crop atGlinzendorf was winter barley After being harvested oil radish mixedwith tansy phacelia was sown as the catch crop in Glinzendorf InDoumlrfles the preceding crop was summer barley Peas were sown as thecatch crop there

Both sites are situated in the drier part of Lower Austria The annualmean temperature is 98degC (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf) and 99degC(Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) Both sites showed an almost identical tem-perature pattern in 1999 The precipitation rates in the main growing pe-riod from April to September were also almost identical (except forApril and June with higher precipitation in Doumlrfles) The average sumof annual precipitation is 550 mm (Grobenzersdorf near Glinzendorf)and 520 mm (Gaumlnserndorf near Doumlrfles) (ZAMG 1999)

These species were chosen for the field trial due to their suitabilitywith respect to the following points (such features being beneficial tothe future cultivation of dye plants in organic farming)

bull cultivation instructions for conventional farming methods have al-ready been published (TLL 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)Adoption of the recommended techniques to the necessities of or-ganic farming are possible

bull harvest is possible after one vegetation period and results are there-fore soon available

bull demand for nitrogen in Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile is low (TLL1999) and therefore fit the requirements of organic farming

bull reports show few problems with weeds except in the early growthof all three species (TLL 1999)

bull species cover the basic colors yellow (Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamo-mile) and blue (Dyerrsquos Knotweed)

bull good general use fastness properties were reported (Biertuumlmpfel1997)

The tested seed provenances came from German seed companies andfrom German Austrian and Japanese research institutions

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 25

The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

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The experimental design (Table 5) has been a systematic long plotdesign with four pseudo replications as described by Munzert (1992)The design had been chosen due to the technical characteristics of theplantingseeding equipment which did not allow proper work of theequipment in a classical randomized block design

The planting of seedlings was chosen instead of the recommendeddrilling (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann 1998) to ensure es-tablishment of the experiment Following organic cultivation in thegreenhouse for four to five weeks the young plants were planted withplanting machines Both field trials were irrigated after the planting

Weeds emerged especially in Dyerrsquos Knotweed Dyerrsquos Chamo-

26 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 4 Soil conditions at Doumlrfles and Glinzendorf

DOumlRFLES

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 80 58 13 79 68 12 79 64 16

Total nitrogen () 020 015 004 020 011 003 020 014 006

Humus from TOC () 64 70 08 41 38 04 42 30 18

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 78 79 76 77 79 76 77 78

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 122 200 318 129 161 383 129 182 254

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 21 6 lt 3 20 5 lt 3 22 7 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 32 10 lt 3 32 10 lt 3 34 12 lt 3

GLINZENDORF

Reseda luteola Anthemis tinctoria Polygonum tinctorium

Sampling depth (cm) 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75 0-25 25-50 50-75

Nmin (kgha) 57 26 13 65 20 7 46 19 6

Total nitrogen () 015 015 013 020 022 021 015 011 008

Humus from TOC () 30 29 17 29 29 17 29 18 01

pH in CaCl2 (pH) 76 77 76 76 77 77 76 77 77

Lime-test 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Carbonate (CaCO3) () 97 129 222 113 125 202 117 190 246

P2O5 in CALDL (mg100 g) 34 8 lt 3 25 7 lt 3 23 5 lt 3

K2O in CAL (mg100 g) 28 8 lt 3 24 6 lt 3 19 4 lt 3

The soil analysis was conducted by the Bundesamt amp Forschungszentrum fuumlr Landwirtschaft ViennaSampling 07051999 TOC = total organic carbon

mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

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mile however established such a dense crop that as soon as crop cover-ing had been reached weed control was not necessary Weld wasseriously infested with fungal disease (Cercospora resedae) Some ofthe singular Dyerrsquos Knotweed plants were infested with an unidentifi-able viral disease Dyerrsquos Chamomile was not infested with any pests ordiseases at all

Harvesting dates were chosen according to the recommendationsgiven in cultivation instructions (TLL 1997 and 1999 Adam amp Dittmann1998)

Weld and the flower heads of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were dried afterharvesting Dyerrsquos Knotweed was cut twice at each site The content ofindican which is the precursor of indigo can only be analyzed from

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 27

TABLE 5 Research design

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Factors 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances 3 seed provenances

Sites 2 2 2

Number of replications perprovenance

4 4 4

Plot size 6 m2 9 m2 24 m2

Testedvariables

yield fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter fresh weight dry matter

dyestuff contentand dyestuffcomposition

Content of luteolin apigeninand total flavonoid content(HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing oftotal flavonoid content (HPLC)

Extraction and analyzing ofindigo precursors (HPLC)

dyeing Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Test of general use fastnessproperties and reflectancemeasurement

Additional data recorded(not presented here)

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

height pests and diseasesweeds

Number of samples (field trial) For analysis of contentand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contentsand experimental dyeing2 samples (one mixed sampleof replication no 1 + 2 andone mixed sample of replicationno 3 + 4) per provenance andsite

in total 12 samples

For analysis of contents4 samples and 2 cuttingdates per provenance andsite in total 48 samples

For experimental dyeing1 sample per provenanceand replication one site

in total 12 samplesNumber of samplescommercially available thathave been used as references

3 3 3

Total number of samples 15 15 48 (for analysis of contents)and 15 (for dyeing)

The first and the second cutting were both used separately for analysis of phytochemicals and measurement of yield Biomass as harvested Each sample was analyzed twice for dyestuff content and dyestuff composition The size of the plots was calculated according to the amount needed for dyestuff analysis and dyeing analysis

fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

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fresh plant material (leaves) The precursors are very unstable Indicancan easily be changed into indigo by pressure or injury of the plant In-digo which is formed already in the plant however is lost to the chemi-cal analysis Samples of leaves therefore were picked by hand thencooled and prepared in the laboratory immediately after picking As op-posed to Weld or Dyerrsquos Chamomile the indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweedhas to be extracted immediately after cutting without drying Themethod used for extraction was based on Wurl et al (1999) For a de-tailed description of the adapted method see Hartl and Vogl (2000c) Itwas originally planned to extract the plant material from the first cuttingat both sites The extraction of the material from Glinzendorf howeverfailed because of difficulties in filtering off the indigo The exact dataon cultivation methods harvesting first processing and sampling meth-ods used are given in Table 6

Analysis of Dyestuff Content and Dyeing Quality

The dyestuff content and dyeing quality of the field trial sampleswere compared with commercially available samples of Weld andDyerrsquos Chamomile (three samples each) Because indigo obtained fromDyerrsquos knotweed is not available on the market three samples of indigotaken from the tropical indigo plant (Indigofera sp) were used in ana-lyzing and comparing dyestuff quality

The dyestuff content was analyzed with the HPLC method (Table 7)Each sample was analyzed twice

For analysis of dyeing quality parameters a comparative dyeing(mordant dyeing with Weld and Dyerrsquos Chamomile and vat dyeing withthe indigo of Dyerrsquos Knotweed) was conducted under standardized con-ditions The processes were not optimized as far as dye absorption isconcerned The samples from the field trial were compared with thecommercially available samples The dyeing quality was analyzed by acalorimetric valuation and testing of the general use fastness properties(light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness) Fora detailed description of dyestuff content analytical methods and theanalysis of dyeing quality see Hartl and Vogl (2000c)

Statistic Analysis

The data collected in the field trial and the data of the indican analysisof Dyerrsquos Knotweed were statistically tested (the one way analysis ofvariance and Tukey-Test was done with the statistic program SPSS 75

28 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

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1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

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Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 29

TABLE 6 Cultivation harvesting and first processing methods and dates

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles Glinzendorf Doumlrfles

Planting date 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May 18 May 19 May

Row distance 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm 45 cm

Plantingdistance inthe row

~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 30 cm ~ 20 cm ~ 20 cm

No of rowsper plot

6 3 6 3 6 3

No of plantsper m2

6 5 6 5 10 9

Irrigation Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19+ 26 of May125 mm each

Several timesexact data notavailable

19 + 26 of May125 mm each

Mechanicalweed control

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

31 May17 June14 July

30 May18 June15 July

Harvestingdate

20 July 20 July 04 August31 August

18 August13 Sept

28 July17 Sept

10 Aug07 Oct

Harvestingmethod

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Cutting ofwhole plants(1)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Picking offlower headswith combs (2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Cutting ofwhole plants(2)

Furthertreatmentof harvestedmaterial

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC)and cutting

Drying (40degC60degC)

Drying (60degC) drying (60degC) fordetermination ofdry matter yield

(a) drying (40and 60degC) fordeterminationof dry matteryield(b) for indigoextractionharvested notdried biomassof 1st cutting

Sampling foranalysis ofdyestuff

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 500 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

1 sample offresh leavesper replicationseedprovenanceand cutting

in total24 samples

Sampling foranalysis ofdyeing quality

1 mixed sampleof replicationno 1 + 2 and 1mixed sampleof replicationno 3 + 4 (eachagrave 50 g per seedprovenance)

in total6 samples

Same as siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

Same as forWeld siteGlinzendorf

No samplesextraction hadto be stopped

1 sample ofextracted indigoper seedprovenanceand replication(first cutting)

in total12 samples

Because of different driving speed the number of plants per m2 also differed (1706 shown is the average of all origins and repetitions) Second harvest dried at 60degC Calculated on the basis of number of plants on a length of 2 m (average of 3 measurements per plot)

the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

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the influence of the seed provenances was considered as significant atp 005) In figures different letters (a b c) indicate significant differ-ences The results of the dyestuff content analysis of Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile were not statistically tested because of the small number ofsamples (the first and the second replication were mixed to make sampleone the same was done with the third and the fourth replication for sampletwo)

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Dry Matter Yield

The dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 07 and 27 t ha1

(Figure 1) At both sites the dry matter yield of the seed provenancelsquoTLLrsquo was significantly higher than the dry matter yield of the prove-nances lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoSonnemannrsquo (the difference is about 1 t ha1) InGlinzendorf the yields of all three tested provenances were higher thanin Doumlrfles It can be presumed that in addition to the differences of sitethe stronger infestation with Cercospora resedae in Doumlrfles (the phyto-pathological assessment according to Wagner and Prediger (1990)showed on average a one degree stronger infestation) and the uninten-tionally lower planting density (Table 6) in Doumlrfles also had a negativeinfluence on the dry matter yield

With a maximum dry matter yield of 27 t ha1 the yields are wellbelow the yields of 4-5 t ha1 achieved by conventional farming inThuumlringen and Brandenburg (Germany) (Adam amp Dittmann 1998TLL 1999) One possible reason for the lower yield could lie in thestrong infestation with Cercospora resedae Further field trials will

30 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

TABLE 7 Analysis of dyestuff content

Weld Dyerrsquos Chamomile Dyerrsquos Knotweed

Dyestuff group Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent different glycosidesof luteolin)

Flavonoids (main dyestuffcomponent still not identified)

Indigo

Dyestuff analyzed as Luteolin and glycosides(luteolin-37-diglucosideluteolin-7-glucoside) apigeninother flavonoids (kaempferolquercetin ua) calculated asquercetin and analyzed asaglycons

Total flavonid analysisCalculated as quercetinAnalyzed as aglycons

The content of indican glycosides(indigo precursors) was analyzedand converted into the content ofindigo

have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

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have to be done to test whether the differences in yield will become lessextreme under better growing conditions

At both sites the Dyerrsquos Chamomile provenances (Figure 2 Figure 3)lsquoArternrsquo and lsquoTLLrsquo showed significantly higher dry matter yields offlower heads than the provenance lsquoWiesrsquo In Doumlrfles the dry matteryields of all provenances were slightly higher than in Glinzendorf Thedry matter yields ranged between 11 and 18 t ha1 and were muchlower than the dry matter yield of 2-25 t ha1 achieved by conventionalfarming methods in Thuumlringen (TLL 1997) Further testing will deter-mine whether the yields are higher in the second cultivation year(Dyerrsquos Chamomile can be cultivated for at least two years)

The dry matter yields (first + second harvest whole plant) of DyerrsquosKnotweed (Figure 4 Figure 5) did not vary statistically significantly be-tween the three provenances In Glinzendorf the dry matter yields wereon average 75 tha in Doumlrfles 77 t ha1 There is no current literatureavailable with data concerning dry matter yields of whole plants Dataavailable are on leaf dry matter yield (because only the leaves containindigo) and fresh weight (because Dyerrsquos Knotweed has to be processedimmediately after the harvesting without drying fresh weight data aremore relevant in practice)

The fresh weight (first + second cutting) was on average about 38 tha1 (in Glinzendorf) and 34 t ha1 (in Doumlrfles) Although fresh weightdata cannot be compared directly because of the fast evaporation the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 31

3

25

2

15

1

05

0

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

Sites

Doumlrfles Glinzendorf

ArternTLLSonnenmanna

083

b168

a072

a149

b266

a169

FIGURE 1 Dry matter yield of Weld (Reseda luteola L) grown at Glinzendorfand at Doumlrfles

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

fresh weight data of both sites are in a higher range than the 20-30 t ha1

fresh weight from cultivation by conventional farming methods inThuumlringen (TLL 1999)

The leaf dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (first + second cutting)was at both sites on average 31 t ha1 There were no significant differ-ences between the three seed provenances tested The average lies in therange of the 23-39 t ha1 achieved in Thuumlringen under the conditionsprescribed by conventional farming (Biertuumlmpfel amp Vetter 1999)

32 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

25

20

15

10

05

00

Glinzendorf

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

a11

a11 b

08a

02

a03

a03

a14

a14 b

11

Artern TLL Wies

FIGURE 2 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Glinzendorf

25

20

15

10

05

00

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

Artern TLL Wies

Doumlrfles

a17 a

16b

11

a01

a02

b02

a18

a17 b

14

FIGURE 3 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L) grownwith three provenances (Artern TLL Wies) at Doumlrfles

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

Dyestuff Content

The dyestuff content of Weld (total flavonoid content) of the fieldtrial samples ranged between 153-400 of the dry matter The totalflavonoid content of the commercially available samples ranged be-tween 255-296 Eight of the 12 field trial samples lay below the low-est content of the commercially available samples however four of the

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 33

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

a36

a44 a

39a

38 a32

a36

a74

a76

a75

FIGURE 4 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Glinzendorf

109876543210

dry

mat

ter

(th

a)

1st harvest 2nd harvest total

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

a65

a46

a53

a20

a28

a24

a86 a

74a

71

FIGURE 5 Dry matter yield of Dyerrsquos Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait)grown with three provenances (TLL Furusho Ono) at Doumlrfles

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

samples lay well above the highest content of the commercially avail-able samples

Dyestuff content of the samples lay in the range of the data of Thuumlringen(2-4 TLL 1999) and Brandenburg (2-3 Adam amp Dittmann 1998)

It can only be determined by analysis of a large number of samples infurther trials whether the dyestuff content can be improved under betterconditions (no infestation with Cercospora resedae) and under modifi-cation of the harvesting method (higher cutting horizon) The influenceof seed provenance on the dyestuff content has to be tested as well Ac-cording to the results which have not been proven statistically theprovenance with the highest dry matter yield in this field trial does notseem to have the highest dyestuff content

The total flavonoid content of Dyerrsquos Chamomile (calculated asquercetin) ranged between 084 and 150 of flower-head dry matterwhich is below the dyestuff content of the commercially available sam-ples (164-243) It seems unrealistic that those dyestuff contentswhich are clearly below the data reported in relevant literature (4-5according to Vetter et al 1999 and 254-682 according to Biertuumlmpfelamp Vetter 1999 both Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft) areonly caused by different characteristics of sites and provenances (althougheven one provenance was provided by the Thuumlringer Landesanstalt) Itis assumed that the differences are due to different analytical methods

The indican content in fresh leaves of Dyerrsquos Knotweed showedgreat differences according to the seed provenance The German prove-nance had the lowest indican content at both cutting dates and at bothsites lsquoTLLrsquo (012-015 leaf fresh weight) The contents of the Japa-nese provenances lsquoFurushorsquo and lsquoOnorsquo were statistically significantlyhigher (the highest content was 038 of leaf fresh weight) (Figure 6Figure 7) The indigo content (calculated by the content of indican infresh leaves) ranged between 022-064 of leaf dry matter Differ-ences in the indigo content between the first and the second cutting as re-ported by Yonekawa (1993) were not confirmed

The dyestuff content of the tested samples is so far below the data inliterature (206-637 leaf dry matter Vetter et al 1999 Biertuumlmpfel ampVetter 1999) that the cause cannot lie in different characteristics of sitesbut must be due to different extraction and analytical methods Toenable comparable results the development of standardized analyticalmethods is necessary

34 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

Dyeing Quality

Only a few differences were noticeable in the color shade of Weldwhen comparing the samples of the field trial to the commercially avail-able samples The fabric appearance of the dyeing was even had no ir-regularities and showed a dull brownish color The differences in

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 35

05

04

03

02

01

00

1st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Glinzendorf

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a015

b035 b

031

a013

b036

c027

FIGURE 6 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Glinzendorf

05

04

03

02

01

001st harvest 2nd harvest

TLL

Doumlrfles

Furusho Ono

Indi

can

in

fres

h le

aves

a012

b038 c

031

a016

b034 b

027

FIGURE 7 Content of indican in of fresh leaf matter of Dyerrsquos Knotweed(Polygonum tinctorium Ait) grown with three provenances (TLL FurushoOno) at Doumlrfles

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

brightness between the samples were small One of the commerciallyavailable samples showed an obviously pure much more brilliantshade which could also be seen in the remission diagram It is assumedthat this sample had been chemically pre-treated

The fabric appearance of the dyeing with the samples of DyerrsquosChamomile was even and had no irregularities The color was a richdark green yellow shade There were differences in the shades of thesamples but these differences were not so obvious as those occurring inWeld

The samples of Dyerrsquos Knotweed indigo showed an obviously differ-ent color shade The colors of the samples from both sites of the Germanprovenance lsquoTLLrsquo were obviously lighter than the other provenanceswhich is due to the much lower content of indigo in this provenance asconfirmed by the indican analysis Changes in shade among the samplestested were small The lighter the dyeing the greater was the tendencyof the indigo to appear uneven in the fabric

Differences in the general use fastness properties between the sam-ples (light fastness rub fastness fastness to perspiration wash fastness)of Weld as well as the samples of Dyerrsquos Chamomile were hardly no-ticeable The differences in the indigo dyeing were the result of differ-ences in the depths of shade In practice (depending on the productcharacteristics) most cases require grades of 3-4 These results showthat good and very good fastness data can also be achieved with naturaldyestuff with the exception of the light fastness in Weld and DyerrsquosChamomile The light fastness grades of Weld (grade 2 and grade 2-3)and Dyerrsquos Chamomile (grade 2 2-3 and 3) were not satisfactory whilethose of indigo dyeing were good or very good (grade 4 and 4-5)

CONCLUSIONS

With this paper we want to encourage further studies on the growingand processing of dye plants under the conditions prescribed by organicfarming Firstly this assessment of yields and quality parameters of se-lected dye plants can serve as a reference of comparison for studies un-der the conditions set out by organic farming Secondly the detaileddescription of the methodology should facilitate further studies Thirdlyresults of this paper and of Hartl and Vogl (2000a) indicate variouspaths for research with potential for the development of a natural dyingbusiness with resources from organic farming

36 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

At first glance specialized disciplinary technical research with theaim of raising yields or dyestuff output are necessary research on theimprovement of the organic cultivation of dye plants (organic fertiliza-tion position in crop rotation anti-phytophatological stability of thecrop etc) and of the selection of appropriate provenances under condi-tions set out by organic farming will be helpful to achieve higher yieldsA great potential for improvement of dyeing results is expected in thedevelopment of dyestuff extracts and the optimization of dyeing meth-ods For natural textiles dyed with dyestuff from organic farming pro-fessional marketing and economic research in this sector of organicfarming are important

However it is simply not enough to improve yields at one end of thechain andor to promote natural dyes with a ldquogreenrdquo image at the otherend In addition to these specialized disciplinary approaches we wantto stress the need for a systemic inter- and transdisciplinary look at theimprovement along the whole chain of production processing andtrade It is necessary to establish pilot projects that provide a link be-tween organic farmers certified processors (extraction dyeing design)and organic trade The flow of information from the market to the pro-ducer concerning consumer needs or quality parameters is weak andlacks professional spirit the same can be said for the flow of informa-tion from the producer to the processor concerning technical require-ments andor limitations The world wide web of ldquothe natural dyeingbusinessrdquo has yet to be developed and linked with the multitude of localand regional initiatives

NOTE

1 For example purple made of truncated murex and cochineal made of cochinealinsects (Dactylopius cacti L) are still used today for coloring textiles and food(Hofmann 1989)

REFERENCES

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1998 Faumlrberpflanzen Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteolaL)-Anbau Ernte und Nachbehandlung Extension leaflet Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft (ed) Guumlterfelde Germany

Adam L amp Dittmann B 1999 Anbauversuche zu Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp inBrandenburg In Proceedings Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 112-133 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 37

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

Adam L Dittmann B amp Meyer E 1997 Erste Erfahrungen zum Anbau und zurFarbstoffgewinnung von Faumlrber-Resede und Krapp im Land Brandenburg In Proceed-ings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen pp 62-73 04amp 05 of June 1997 in DornburgGermany Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe(ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A amp Vetter A 1999 Zuumlchterische Bearbeitung von Faumlrberpflanzen InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 94-105 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Biertuumlmpfel A 1997 Zuumlchtungsergebnisse bei Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings GuumllzowerFachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 inDornburgGermany pp 88-98 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) GuumllzowGermany

Biertuumlmpfel A Wurl A Vetter amp Bochmann R 2000 Anbau von Faumlrberpflanzen zurGewinnung von Farbstoffextrakten fuumlr die Applikation auf Textilmaterial Berichteuumlber Landwirtschaft 78 402-420

BMLF 1975 Oumlsterreichische Bodenkartierung Kartierungsbereich Gaumlnserndorf KB27 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment and Water Management Vi-enna Austria

Bochmann R amp Weiser M 1999 Applikation von Pflanzenfarben auf Leinen undWolle In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 187-208 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Dachler M amp Pelzmann H 1989 Heil-und Gewuumlrzpflanzen Anbau-Ernte-AufbereitungOumlsterreichischer Agrarverlag Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000a Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauErzeugung Verarbeitung und Vermarktung Endbericht zum Forschungsprojekt L104396 (Erarbeitung von Grundlageninformationen und Strategien zu ErzeugungVerarbeitung und Vermarktung von Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus OumlkologischemLandbau) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environment andWater Management amp Ministry for Education Science and Research Vienna Aus-tria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000b Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Fasernessel Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil A (Ertrag-sleistung Fasergehalt und Faserqualitaumlt von fuumlnf Fasernesselklonen auf einemBiobetrieb in Niederoumlsterreich) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture For-estry Environment and Water Management amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

Hartl A amp Vogl CR 2000c Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem LandbauAnbauversuche Faumlrbepflanzen Endbericht zur Projekterweiterung Teil B (Ertrag-sleistung und Farbstoffgehalt von Faumlrber-Resede (Reseda luteola L) Faumlrberkamille(Anthemis tinctoria L) und Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium Ait) aufBiobetrieben in Niederoumlsterreich im Vergleich mit praxis-und handelsuumlblichenWarenpartien) Project L 104396 Ministry of Agriculture Forestry Environmentand Water Management and Environment amp Ministry for Education Science andResearch Vienna Austria

38 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

Hartl A 1997 Untersuchung des Potential zur Herstellung von Naturtextilien ausheimischen Faser-und Faumlrbepflanzen aus Oumlkologischem Landbau Diploma ThesisUniversity of Agricultural Sciences Vienna Austria

Hill DJ 1993 Production of natural indigo in the UK Department of Continuing Ed-ucation University of Bristol Manuscript In Proceedings Waidtagung 1992Nr 45 pp 23-26 Arnstadt Thuumlringer Chronik-Verlag HE Muumlllerott Germany

Hofmann R 1989 Faumlrbepflanzen-Dissertation at the University of Vienna AustriaKaiser R 1993 Quantitative Analysis of Flavonoids in Yellow Dye Plant Species

Weld (Reseda luteola L) and Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L) In AngewandteBotanik 67 128-131

Meyer U 1997 Farbstoffe aus der Natur Katalyse Institut (ed) Die WerkstattGoumlttingen Germany

Munzert M 1992 Einfuumlhrung in das pflanzenbauliche Versuchswesen Parey Ham-burg Germany

Nultsch W 1986 Allgemeine Botanik Kurzes Lehrbuch fuumlr Mediziner und Naturwissen-schaftler 8 ed Georg-Thieme Verlag Stuttgart Germany

Roth L Kormann K amp Schweppe H 1992 Faumlrbepflanzen Pflanzenfarben BotanikFaumlrbemethoden Analytik tuumlrkische Teppiche und ihre Motive Ecomed -LandsbergLech Germany

Schellenberg I Schnuumlber G amp Kabrot K 1999 Biotechnologische Verfahren zurErzeugung von Pflanzenmaterial aus Rhababer als Voraussetzung fuumlr die grobtechnischeIsolierung In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGermany pp 106-111 FachagenturNachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Schweppe H 1992 Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe Vorkommen Verwendung NachweisEcomed LandsbergLech Germany

TLL 1997 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberhundskamille Faumlrberknoumlterich FaumlrberwauKanadische Goldrute Krapp Saflor und Waid Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Land-wirtschaft eds Jena Germany

TLL 1999 Anbautelegramme zu Faumlrberknoumlterich (Polygonum tinctorium) Faumlrberwau(Reseda luteola) Kanadische Goldrute (Solidago canadensis) und Waid (Isatistinctoria) ed Thuumlringer Landesanstalt fuumlr Landwirtschaft eds Jena Germany

Vetter A 1994 Probleme und Loumlsungsansaumltze fuumlr die Entwicklung von Anbauregimenfuumlr Faumlrbepflanzen am Beispiel des Waids-In Proceeding 6 Thuumlringer Waidtagungpp 44-50 Pferdinsleben 13 Nov1993 Foumlrderkreis Gartenbaumuseum Cyriaksburgeds Erfurth Germany

Vetter A 1997 Potentielle Pflanzen zur Gewinnung von Naturfarbstoffen-Bedeutungund Markt In Proceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrber-pflanzen 04 amp 05 of June 1997 Dornburg pp 21-38 Fachagentur NachwachsendeRohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Vetter A Schwabe I amp Biertuumlmpfel A 1999 Ergebnisse zum Anbau und zurErstverarbeitung von Faumlrbepflanzen In Proceedings Guumllzower FachgespraumlcheFaumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 02 amp 03 of June 1999 in DornburgGer-many pp 68-82 Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe (ed) Guumllzow Germany

Wagner F amp Prediger G eds 1990 Der Feldversuch Durchfuumlhrung und TechnikSchluumlchtern-Herolz Selbstverlag F Wagner Germany

Research Reviews Practices Policy and Technology 39

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________

Wurl G 1997 Ergebnisse von Anbauversuchen aussichtsreicher Faumlrbepflanzen-InProceedings Guumllzower Fachgespraumlche Faumlrberpflanzen-Forum Faumlrberpflanzen04 amp 05 06 1997 in Dornburg Fachagentur Nachwachsende Rohstoffe edGuumllzow S pp 47-61

Wurl G Schwabe I amp Hill D 1999 Gewinnung von Indigo aus Waid und Faumlrber-knoumlterich Unpublished paper Forum Faumlrberpflanzen 1999 Dornburg Germany

Yonekawa T 1993 Ai the Japanese Natural Indigo Dye its Present and Future Chal-lenges In International Woad Conference in Erfurth pp 18-21 nr 45 part 2 amppart 3 Arnstadt Germany

ZAMG 1999 Federal Service for Meteorology and Geodynamics Vienna Austria

RECEIVED 040802REVISED 090302

ACCEPTED 101502

40 JOURNAL OF SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE

For FACULTYPROFESSIONALS with journal subscriptionrecommendation authority for their institutional library

Please send me a complimentary sample of this journal

(please write complete journal title herendashdo not leave blank)

If you have read a reprint or photocopy of this article would you like tomake sure that your library also subscribes to this journal If you havethe authority to recommend subscriptions to your library we will send youa free complete (print edition) sample copy for review with your librarian

1 Fill out the form below and make sure that you type or write out clearly both the nameof the journal and your own name and address Or send your request via e-mail todocdeliveryhaworthpresscom including in the subject line ldquoSample Copy Requestrdquoand the title of this journal

2 Make sure to include your name and complete postal mailing address as well as yourinstitutionalagency library name in the text of your e-mail

[Please note we cannot mail specific journal samples such as the issue in which a specific article appearsSample issues are provided with the hope that you might review a possible subscriptione-subscription withyour institutions librarian There is no charge for an institutioncampus-wide electronic subscriptionconcurrent with the archival print edition subscription]

I will show this journal to our institutional or agency library for a possible subscriptionInstitutionAgency Library ______________________________________________

Name _____________________________________________________________

Institution __________________________________________________________

Address ___________________________________________________________

City ____________________Return to Sample Copy DepartmentThe Haworth Press Inc

10 Alice Street Binghamton NY 13904-1580

State __________ Zip ____________________