Starring:(in order of appearance)

Daru-walla Recommends

Bombay Presidency Punch

Pegs & Paanch

Slings, Coolers & Fizzes

Sours & Fancies

Beers, Ciders & Wines

Dry Tipples

EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK

Performing only beneath Dishoom Edinburgh

An Original MenuWritten and Executed by:

Dishoom Daru-walla

Carl Brown

A Guide to the Available Tipples

T H E P E R M I T R O O M

Presenting

P R O G R A M M E

Cocktails 02 – 05

DARU-WALLA RECOMMENDS … … … … … … 02

SOURS & FANCIES … … … … … … … … … 03

SLINGS, COOLERS & FIZZES … … … … … … … 04

PEGS & PAANCH … … … … … … … … … 05

LIBERTY PUNCH … … … … … … … … … 05

Beer & Cider 06 Wines 07 – 09

SPARKLING … … … … … … … … … … 07

WHITE … … … … … … … … … … … 08

ROSÉ … … … … … … … … … … … 08

RED … … … … … … … … … … … … … … 09

B E S W I F T L Y P I C K L E D

B E S L O W L Y P I C K L E D

B E N O T P I C K L E D A T A L L

SNACKS … … … … … … … … … … … 10

STORY … … … … … … … … … … … 10

I f yo u wo u l d c a r e f o r a ny c l a s s i c c o c k t a i l t h a t i s n o t

p r e s e n t e d i n t h i s m e nu — j u s t a s k . An d i f yo u h a v e a ny

a l l e r g i e s p l e a s e l e t u s k n ow.

‘BREAK A LEG – ENJOY A PARSI PEG!’

[Enter AFLA, dressed in striped cotton shorts, a crumpled over-shirt, and a red cravat. A grubby Madras checked duster is thrown across a shoulder. His expression is one of perpetual exhaustion.]

The Irani family retainer Afla (short for Aflatoon) is a hero of Parsi theatre. He is forever henpecked by the bossy ladies of the house. One eyebrow-arch or leg-waggle might cause a whole audience to fall down with laughter.

The delightful tradition of Parsi theatre in Bombay saw Persian, Indian and English classics (including Shakespeare and suchlike) reimagined in Gujarati, Hindu, Urdu and English. Preposterous plots, eccentric characters and ribald quips drew persons of every kind to the Pila House district.

This Permit Room pays tribute to the heroes of Parsi theatre. Raise a glass to poor Afla and his fellow characters – drunken, henpecked, otherwise – who brought this fine Bombay tradition to life.

With sincere thanks to the lovely Bombay author Meher Marfatia for her support in the curation of Permit Room artefacts, photographs, etc.

INSIDE FRONT COVER

02 03

HORNIMAN’S

OLD - FASHIONED (PEG)

We use the smoked oak barrel to age best rum, pineapple syrup and bitters. Named for the upstanding editor of the Bombay Chronicle, fervent supporter of Indian Independence. Excessive consumption may lead to lack of censorship, inflammatory statements, and ultimately, deportation. 9 . 9 0

DA RU-WA L L AR ECOMMENDS

SOURS & FA NCIES

EAST INDIA

GIMLET

(UP)

CYRUS IR ANI

(UP)

CHANDR A BOSE

SOUR (UP)

DISHOOM

ESPRESSO

MARTINI

(UP)

The classic Gimlet was devised for sailors to evade scurvy. This one shakes London dry gin with Rose’s lime and a touch of celery bitters. 8 . 5 0

Charismatic mix of lime juice, tequila and turmeric-honey lassi syrup, shaken hard and strained finely into a sours glass. Warning: wayward drinkers must seek redemption. 8 . 9 0

Self-governance against the British? Volatile combination of Indian and Japanese whiskies, very dry, with dashes of plum bitters and egg-white foam. Controversial alliances and conspiracies will abound. 8 . 9 0

Monsooned Catuai espresso, vivified with Luksusowa vodka, chilli liqueur, black walnut bitters and crema. (N) 8 . 9 0

Since 1949, and to this very day, Bombay has been under a state of prohibition. A personal permit is required

by law if one is to “continue to require foreign liquor and country liquor for preservation and maintenance

of one’s health.”

Set apart from a family room, there is a special place which has come to be known unofficially as a Permit Room.

Herein liquor can be sold and imbibed, but only for the goodness of one’s health.

THEPER MIT ROOM

C H A I

PAANCH by the Peg

05

BOLLYBELLINI

(FLUTE)

THE KOHINOOR

FIZ Z

(TALL)

COL ABA COL ADA

(UP)

MEENAKSHI’S

MOJITO

(TALL)

Raspberries, lychees, rose and cardamom with first-class sparkling wine. A very pretty missy. 7. 9 0

Dishoom gooseberry syrup with lime juice and London dry gin, a wash of Aperol, diamond fizz’d with sparkling wine and cushion’d with egg white. Slips down nicely with all dishes. 8 . 9 0

The two words are almost the same, isn’t it? Pineapple and coconut-cream classic with a Bombay twist: a little coriander, chai syrup, lime juice and two rums. (N) 8 . 5 0

Bacardi Carta Blanca rum meets pineapple, bitters and lime, alongside the usual mint-soda affair. Suitable for the most advanced boy or girl. 8 . 5 0

For a bold young nation: a magnificent sharing concoction of jaggery, lime, green tea and Ceylon Arrack, served over cubed ice in a vintage

bowl. Ladle into the dainty cups and crumble in the jaggery, to taste. It would be ornamental were it not so good to drink.

Wild abandon and excitement in equal measure may ensue, as such the Liberty Punch is only to be shared amongst a minimum of four people.

3 3 .0 0

LIBERT Y PUNCH

VICEROY’S OLD - FASHIONED (PEG)

SONIA’S NEGRONI (PEG)

CHAI

PAANCH (PEG)

HOPPY

BUT TER PAANCH

(MUG)

The sort of drink in which Mountbatten may have found welcome repose. A bottle-aged muddle of Woodford Reserve bourbon, bayleaf reduction, green tea and so on. Like an old club-room, with tertiary colours and artistic composition. 9 . 9 0

The Italian lady goes native. Equal parts of London dry gin, bitter Campari and Dishoom vermouth (macerated with vanilla, cinnamon and ginger). Bottle-aged for smooth, tawny intensity. 9 . 9 0

Lemon shrub with Johnnie Walker Black Label, Ceylon Arrack, House Chai, Gosling’s dark rum, and two liqueurs: one ginger, one 80% cocoa. Clear, complicated and sweet. 9 . 9 0

Dishoom IPA creamy foam cushions the lips. Then comes the ginger-tempered sweetness of Johnnie Walker with butter syrup base. Forget beer. Drink only this. (N) 8 . 9 0

PEGS & PA A NCH

04

SLINGS, COOL ERS & F IZZES

T H U M S U P,

L I M C A A N D OT H E R

VA R I E T I E SD I S H O O M

IPA

FRESH VIGOUR

AND INCREASED JOIE

DE VIVRE

070 6

KING FISHER

DISHOOM INDIA

PALE ALE

ROAD SODA

NEW ENGL AND

PALE ALE

COLD SPARK

CITR A PALE

ALE (CAN )

ZINTUKI SOUR

BEER

LUCK Y SAINT

(ALC-REMOVED)

LION STOUT

(CAN )

GUEST BEERS

& CIDERS

PEACOCK

CIDER

Beer came to India in the 18th century. This mild and malty easydrink lager is India’s choicest favourite.4.8% 330ml / 650ml 4 . 5 0 / 7. 5 0

Delectable IPA with citrus notes, specially crafted for Dishoom by Mondo Brewing Company. 5.0% 330ml 5 . 3 0

Mondo explores tropical territory. From Mosaic and Simcoe hops, plenty of oats and late-dry-hopping pours forth juicy hazy golden goodness. 4.8% 330ml 5 . 3 0

Big Smoke Brew and prize-givers swear by 100% Citra. Fresh and breezy, notes of bright lemon and grapefruit. Very sensible alcohol. 3.6% 330ml 5 . 3 0

Drink wildly different. A spicy, fruity, lemon-juicy sour ale with Champagne-like spritz. Deeply satisfying blended beer from the Wild Beer Co. 7.3% 330ml 6 . 5 0

Be sober, be vigilant: this is alcohol-removed vegan lager, born of Bavarian springs, Hallertau hops and barley-malt. Pour. Swirl. Pour again for citrus hop finish. 0.5% 330ml 5 . 0 0

Glossy black pour, creamy tan froth,

fragrant aromas of coffee, cacao, and

caramel. Award-winning, robust stout

from an old-established Sri Lankan

brewery. 8.8% 330ml 5 . 5 0

Consult your server for guest beers and ciders.

Crafted by skilled workmanship of Aspall Cyder House. Very mellow fruitfulness, best cider apples, kissed by the maturing sun. Pairs well with feisty food. 4.8% 500ml 6 . 5 0

CIELO E TERR A SPUMANTE EKUÒ, NV, VENETO

Classic delicate spumante from organic vines of Garganega and Trebbiano. Pleasantly pale yellow with fine bubbles,

fresh stone fruit and soft dry finish. 150ml / 750ml 7.50 / 35.0 0

LUIGI TACCHINO MOSCATO D’ASTI, NV, PIEDMONT

A matchless sparkling pudding wine to lif t the spirits with charm and indulgence. Fresh, fruity and light, with a mere

5% alcohol. 150ml / 750ml 7.20 / 29.9 0

L ANSON PÈRE ET FIL S, NV, CHAMPAGNE

Unhesitatingly lovely blend of the best Chardonnay (35%), Pinot Noir (50%) and Meunier (15%) grapes from 10 different vintages. Admire its regal golden glow, hints of stone fruit, honeydew and buttery complexity. A boon to any

celebration. 150ml / 750ml 12.00 / 55.00

EDENVALE SPARKLING CUVÉE , S.E . AUSTR ALIA

(ALC- REMOVED)

For the table, Chardonnay and Verdelho laced together, fleeting tastes of fresh apples and fragrance of white flowers. Fine bubbles whisper and fade. Elegant celebration without

inebriation. 750ml 22.25

GOSSET GR ANDE RESERVE , NV, CHAMPAGNE

A prestige cuvée from the very oldest wine house in Champagne, whose wines were drunk by French kings from 1584. Find joy in rich expressions of crisp green apple, brioche, toasted nuts and a smoking kindling.

Perfect complexity. 9 5 . 0 0

BEER & CIDER SPA R K LING

090 8

W HITE W INE R ED W INE

ROSÉ

H-HERO ROSÉ, LA CANTINA PIZZOLATO

2 017, VENETO Preciously pink Venetian beaut y. Fruits of Cabernet and Merlot introduce

lightness and freshness with blessings of red berries. 7. 2 0 / 19 .7 0 / 2 8 . 0 0

175 ml / 5 0 0 ml / 75 0 ml

IL FOLLE G RILLO, 2 0 17, SICILYGregarious, sun-drenched Sicilian. The name means ‘the mad one’. Wild, but

with elegant aromas of exotic blooms and tropical fruits. You may well develop special affections. 6.0 0 / 16.70 / 23.50

PASOS DE L A CAPUL A VERDEJO, 2 0 17, CASTILL A Fine and most well-selected, with clear straw colour and expressive nose

of pale fruits. Young, balanced, refreshing. 6.90 / 18.60 / 26.50

CHÂTE AU DU CÈDRE BL ANDINE LE BL ANC , 2 0 1 6 ,

COTES DE GASCOGNELiveliness is derived f rom Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes.

Tangy lemon-peel presents immediately. Minerals are the subsequent secret of aromatic intensi t y. 7.60 / 20.30 / 29.0 0

PINOT G RIGIO, 2 0 1 6 , DELL A VENE Z IAA refreshingly good Pinot Grigio with ci trus f rui t , pear and f loral aromas.

The balanced acidi t y marries well wi th spicy food. 8 .0 0 / 21.90 / 30.0 0

FRENCH AMBUSH VIOGNIER , 2 0 17, PAYS D’OC Elegant, fine and pleasantly rounded. White flowers and tropical fruits dance sweetly

with ripe peaches. A lover of seafood. 8 . 4 0 / 2 2 . 4 0 / 3 2 . 0 0

WILD SOUTH SAUVIGNON BLANC, 2 017, MARLBOROUGH A tip-top classic made by talented wine-walli Christie Brown. Vibrant and

intense, with a fresh palate of ripe citrus and intriguing minerals. 8 . 9 0 / 2 5 . 0 0 / 3 7. 0 0

HARTENBERG RIESLING, 2 016, STELLENBOSCHRiesling grapes hand-picked at daybreak ensure most heavenly f lavours.

Defined lime zest with taut apple (green) succulence. Find residual sweetness quietly l ingering. 9 . 5 0 / 2 6 . 9 0 / 3 9 . 0 0

175 ml / 5 0 0 ml / 75 0 ml

ROC D’OPALE G RENACH E - M ERLOT, 2 0 17, PAYS D’OC Hedgerow fruit, plum and cocoa, with soft tannins. Served cool in summer months.

Charming and agreeable with or without food. 6 . 0 0 / 16 .7 0 / 2 3 . 5 0

TERRE DI M ONTELUSA PRIMITIVO, 2 0 17, PUGLIA Inky, aromatic, full-bodied Italian, with the most excellent qualities of spice and

hinting liquorice. 7. 0 0 / 19 . 2 0 / 2 7. 5 0

CIELO E TERR A M ERLOT EKUÒ, 2 0 1 6 , VENE TO A charitable quaff. Organic Merlot vines yield deep ruby colour, softly herbal nose and

dark berry palate. 7. 8 0 / 2 1. 0 0 / 3 0 . 0 0

MARR AS SHIR A Z CINSAULT, 2 0 1 6 , SWARTL ANDFrom wine-minded enthusiast Martin ‘Marras’ Lamprecht. Tender scents of rose

petals and plums grace into mouth-warmingly spicy character. 8 . 4 0 / 2 2 . 4 0 / 3 2 . 0 0

DO MAINE DE CABRIAL S PINOT NOIR , 2 0 17, L ANGU EDOC - ROUSSILLON

Light-hearted joy that slips down well on its own or with white meats. Admire perfumed cherry fruit, silky tannins and sustained finish. 8 .7 0 / 24 .7 0 / 3 4 . 0 0

PITCH FO RK SHIR A Z , 2 0 1 6 , MARGARE T RIVERElegant complex Australian character with ripe cherry, plum fruits and chocolate

influences. Its sophistication is most commendable. 9 . 6 0 / 2 5 . 9 0 / 3 7. 0 0

LUIGI BOSCA RESERVA MALBEC , 2 0 1 5 , M ENDOZ A A mouth-watering Argentine beauty of voluptuous, chocolatey, densely fruited

character, with an enticing spice finish. 10 . 0 0 / 2 8 . 5 0 / 4 2 . 0 0

All wines can be ser ved in 12 5 ml measures

1110

SNACK S

DISHOOM EDINBURGH STORY

CHAKNA

POTATO CRISPS

Fried lentils, spices, nuts and sev. (N) 2 . 0 0

Sprinkled with magic masala and served with lime. 2 . 0 0

IN WHICH PATRICK GEDDES FINDS INSPIRATION IN IRANI CAFÉS

BOMBAY, MARCH 1923. Botanist, ecologist, and all-round man of the people Patrick Geddes reclines on a long-armed rattan chair. An unruly mop of hair sits atop his wide forehead, which is etched with many lines. We find him in the J.N. Petit reading room, in that second of clean consciousness that comes with waking. The muffled din of the street and the gentle whir of ceiling fans fill the quiet room.

He blinks as he remembers his surroundings. He observes the marble-topped tables lined with visitors as varied as the dusty books housed there: students, curious readers, elderly men poring over periodicals in English, Marathi, Hindi and Gujarati, while a handful of others are quietly nodding off. Everyday people all sitting, working and sleeping, cheek by jowl.

And amongst them, of course, sits Geddes, a big-hearted Scot of excitable character who brims with visionary ideas. Bombay has been his home since 1917 when he travelled to India at the behest of Lord Pentland, Governor of Madras. A pioneer of town planning (successful and prolific in equal measure), he brought plenteous wisdom to India from his years reforming Edinburgh’s Old Town.

His early days in Bombay were spent humbly, wandering the s tre e ts, understanding the workings of this city and her folk. “By living we learn”, he would

say to his students from the University of Bombay. And so he would walk, observe, ask, listen – a cheerful nomadic flâneur buoyed by curiosity.

All who met him were enthused by the energy of this prodigious man. And yet, since the double loss of his wife and son in 1917 (his dearest Anna passed away never knowing that her boy was gone, killed on the Western Front), that energy is somewhat depleted, a flame flickering a little from sorrow. He finds quiet repose in the dusty tranquillity of his beloved reading rooms, and – though his ideas and enthusiasms were not just of his youth – he of ten comes here to sit awhile, an old love letter from his wife in hand. He smiles when he thinks of her, in moments of bitter-sweet reverie.

Geddes rubs his face and climbs out of the chair – involuntarily grunting as he rises. His frayed brown suit is too heavy in the close afternoon heat. Stiffly, he walks across the parquet floor and through the threshold into the hubbub of the city.

Looking about, he admires the special character of Bombay, this crowded, many-cultured, generally implausible city: hawkers peddling their wares, men cleaning ears, briefcases swinging, cows roaming. The sights and sounds are far removed from his old dwellings in Edinburgh, but the pungent smell takes him back to 1886 when he and Anna first moved to the crumbling Old Town, with its absence of effective plumbing.

Narrowly, he dodges the flick of a street sweeper’s broom. On another day, he may well have paused, enquired as to the fellow’s health, and wished him well; but not today, for he has an appointment to keep.

He is meeting his friend Khambatta in a favourite place: Kyani & Co., a so-called ‘Irani’ café opened by some of the Zoroastrian immigrants who had been arriving in Bombay since the turn of the century. On fieldwork trips with his students, Geddes would sit for hours in these delightful establishments, discussing what they saw there: families, students, professionals, elderly men – all sitting side by side – sharing the experience of daily living. Always conscientious in his observations, he notes that these cafés truly seemed to bring people together, regardless of caste, faith or social standing.

On seeing his friend – a jovial Parsi with a remarkable talent for theatre – Geddes reflects for a moment. How welcome and refreshing a space like this would be in Edinburgh… A place which could break down the boundaries between classes and provide common ground, a truly shared space. His musings did not go unnoticed by his friend Khambatta, who spotted the familiar twinkle in Geddes’ eye – a plan was afoot, and he leant in to listen.

12

Sir Patrick Geddes (1854-1932) was a botanist, ecologist, sociologist and town planner. Anti-imperialist in outlook and humanist in approach, he helped develop cities around the world, with much time spent in Edinburgh and Bombay.

Geddes sought to better society by improving civic facilities and creating environments where ‘people of all walks of life had common interests and shared the experience of daily living’. In Edinburgh Geddes dedicated himself to improving conditions in the run-down, impoverished Old Town, which owes him much of its present-day charm.

His work in Edinburgh led to an invitation to travel to India to advise on planning issues. He made the voyage to Bombay in 1915 and went on to produce plans that would improve living conditions in 50 of India’s cities. Geddes supported India’s quest to gain independence from the British. He challenged the prevailing orthodoxy ‘that a city like Bombay must depend on its millionaires’ and argued against the colonial authorities. He had a very broad and sympathetic outlook on life, and wherever he worked, he endeavoured to establish cultural brotherhoods irrespective of caste, class or colour.

Geddes was appointed as Bombay University’s first professor of Sociology and Civics in 1919. He has been compared to Leonardo da Vinci and praised by Einstein for his innovative thinking. At Dishoom Edinburgh, we pay tribute to Geddes’ visionary thinking and humanist ideals.