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The Cooum is a river with a rich and distinctive odour. The brown sludge trailing through Chennai, once part of the city’s waterways, can smother you with its smell on rainy evenings. And yet till a few years ago, thousands of people in Pudupet, Chetpet and other parts of the city slept, bathed, ate, reared children and dreamt on its banks.... This is their story
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