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THE ITTLE
......_ ___ ,.., rsetBoo._ A WORKBOOK ON PERIOD UNDERWEAR
Bonnie Holt Ambrose
(O 1997 by Bonnie Holt Ambrose
Ali rights reserved under the lntemational and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. For information address Quite Specific Media Group Ltd., 7373 Pyramid Place, Hollywood, CA 90046. Printed in Canada.
Email: [email protected]
Voice: 323.851.5797 Fax: 323.851.5798
The Utt le Hatmakiog Book and The Ut tle Bodice Book were originally published by Drama Publishers.
Quite Specific Media Group Ltd. lmprints include:
Drama Publishers Costume & Fashion Press EntertainmentPro By Design Press Jade Rabbit
OI
ORSET· ·18 02
PATTERN MAKING···I890,s COI\SE.T
Ih.~
FOLLOW THE GRID A80VE ANO TRAN5FER THE PATTERN PIEC.E5 TO TRU-GRID PELLON OR I " GRID PAPER. CAREFULLY FOLLOW MEA5UREMEHT5 ANO DRAW ALL DIREC.TION5 ONTO THE PAI I ERN PIEC.E5 WITH A FELT PEN. lf A DIFFERENT 51ZE CORSET 15 DESIRED, 5EE THE C.HART ON PAGE ELEVEN.
CUT OUT PAT I ERN PIEC.E5 ANO PIN TO C.OTTON C.ORSET FA8RIC.; THE IDEAL FA8RIC. 15 C.OTTON C.OUTIL, A DKILL C.LOTH, A SATIN 8ROCADE, OR CANVAS. TltE C.ORSET WILL NOT 8E LINED, THEREFORE TIGHTL V WOVEN C.OTTON FA8RIC. IS 5UGGE5TED.
03
PRE- SHRINK C.ANVAS ANO ORILL c.LOTH. ,
PRESS.
ARRANGE PA I I ERN PIEC.ES C.AREFULL V ON FOLOEO FABRIC.. PATTERN PIEC.ES SHOULD 8E PLAC.ED ~ITH THE FA8RIC. GRAIN <AS SHO~N A80VE). PIN ANO C.UT OUT. THE REMAINING FA8RIC. ~ILL 8E USEO TO C.UT 61AS STRIPS T O FINISH TOP ANO 60TTOM EOGE OF C.ORSET. USE A C.HALK PENC.IL ANO IOENTIFV ALL C.UT OUT PIEC.ES ON THE ~RONG SIOE Of THE f A8RIC..
PIN C.ORSET PIEC.ES TOGETHER ~ITH THE ~RONG SIOES FAC.ING. LEAVE T HE C.ENTER f RONT ANO C.ENTER 8AC.K SEAMS OPEN. USING ~" SEAMS 1
MAC.HINE STITC.H C.ORSET PIEC.ES TOGETHER. THESE RA~ SEA.MS ~lll 8E FINISHEO ~ITH RJ880N STAV C.OVERS. TRIM All SEAMS TO ~N ANO PRESS.
04
AOO A SATIN RI660N WAIST BANO TO INSIDE OF C.ORSET TO REDUC.E STRAIN ON THE FABRIC. AT WAIST UNE.
PIN I Y:r.."' SATIN RI660N IN POSITION AT EAC.H SEAM. AS R1660N STAV C.OVERS ARE STITC.HED IN PLAC.E THE RI660N WAIST BANO WILL BE STITC.HED ALSO.
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CHOOSE A C.OMPLEMENTARV C.OLOR FOR THE RI660N STAV C.OVERS AS THIS WILL AC.C.E NTUATE THE WAIST UNE ANO SHAPE OF THE C.ORSET. THE RI660N WIDTH IS IMPORTANT AS IT MUST C.OVER THE M ETAL STAV ANO ALLOW FOR MAC.HINE STITC.HING ON 60TH SIOES lAS SHOWN
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PLAGE RI860N OVER SEAM, PIN, ANO SEW OOWN ONE SIDE AS GLOSE TO EDGE OF RI880N AS POSS18LE . SEW THE OTHER EDGE . CONTINUE THIS PROGEOURE UNTIL AU SEAMS ARE GOVERED. USE A GHALK PENGIL TO MARK WHERE THE REMAINING STAY GOVERS WILL 8 E SEWN. PIN RI880N STAY GOVERS IN POSITION ANO MAGHINE STITGH.
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OH THE GOOD SIDE OF FA8RIC. PIN FRONT FAC.ING TO CENTER FRONT RIGHT SIDE. LAY CL.ASP I "' DOWN FROM TOP Of CORSE T. USE PENCIL. TO MARK 80TH SIDES OF EAC.H Cl.ASP. PIN AT EACH MARK. MACHINE STITC.H 8ET"-'EEN STRAIGHT PINS. 8ACKSTITCH AT EACH STOPPING POINT. PRESS OPEN SEAM.
IN OROER TO HIOE M ETAL. CL.ASPS A 8ROCAOE RI880N CAN 8 E ADOEO. STITCH RI880N OOWN FRONT Of PRESSED OPEN SEAM AS SHOWN.
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SUOE FRONT C.l.ASP INTO OPENINGS. USE Z IPPER FOOT TO STITC.H THROUGH AU FA81UC. L.AYERS NEXT TO C.L.ASP.
07
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PIN 1_ Vz. " \o/IDE FAC.ING ANO INTERFAC.ING TO OUITR FA8RIC. AT 8AC.K OPENING1 MAC.HINE STITC.H Vz. " SEAM 1 PRESS ANO FOLO TO INSIOE Of C.ORSET BAC.K. PRESS ANO PIN IN POSITION. SEW FIRST ROW Of STITC.HES Vz." IN FROM OUTSIDE EDGE. LEAVE Ya.. M SPAC.E FOR EY ELETS ANO STII (.H A SEC.ONO SEAM. SEW A FINAL ROW OF STITC.HES AT OUTER EDGE OF FAC.ING. THE FINISHED 8AC.K CORSET SHOULD HAVE A C.ENTER AISLE FOR EYELETS ENC.LOSED 8Y 80NING ON EITHER SIDE.
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FINISH THE TOP EOGE Of THE CORSET WITH 81AS TAPE IN ·THE SAME FA8RIC. MACHINE STITCH 81AS TAPE TO TOP OUTSIOE EOGE OF CORSET. FOLO 81AS TAPE TO INSIOE ANO MACHINE STITCH OOWN. SLIOE THE APPROPRIATE LENGTH METAL STAYS INTO THE R1880N CASINGS. TACK STITCH ~4 • FROM 80TTOM EOGE OF CORSET.
ANISH THE 80TTOM EOGE OF CORSET WITH 81AS TAPE JUST AS THE TOP EOGE \JAS COMPLETEO.
09
LAV C.ORSET FLAT WITH 8AC.K OPENING EVEN ANO MARK WHERE ALL EVELETS WILL BE INSERTEO.
USE A SMALL EVELET HOLE PUNC.H TO C.UT THROUGH ALL LAVERS. WORK ON TOP Of A OISPOSA8LE PIEC.E Of WOOO. PRAC.TIC.E SETTING THE EVELETS FIRST 8V USING SC.RAP FA8RIC.. Vou WILL NEEO A SMALL HAMMER ANO A METAL E VELET SE I I ER. INSERT EVELETS FROM TOP SIOE Of FA8RIC.. FLIP C.ORSET OVER ANO SET EVELETS FROM INSIOE. E. VELETS SHOULO SPREAD ANO C.LAMP INTO FA8RIC. TIGHTL V.
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~ . ..WKE. snKr a.-=-QJRVI AT ICI AS SHOWN. PULL EXTIU\ LAC.E lENGTH OUT AT WAIST AREA. CONTINUE TO lAC.E TO 80TTOM OF C.ORSET. nE 80W ANO KNOT. USE WAIST LAC.ES FOR ADJUSTMENTS. WRAP LAC.ES AROUND WAIST ONC.E THEN TIE IN 80W AT 8ACJ(.
11
FABRIC. ANO NOTIONS: ( SIZE 12.) I YO. FABRIC., 2.~ Y05 • .!4" SATIN RI880N, 2. V~ VOS. INSERTION LAC.E, I YO. I " 8ROC.AOE RI880N1
11::2.. YO. IRONON c.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING, 12. " METAL C.ENTER FRONT C.LASP, 30 #2. METAL EYELETS, EYELET SETTER., HOLE PUNC.H., 8 YO. SHOE L.AC.E.
1/Cf" METAL STAYS : fo/ 12. " , 10/ 11 " , 4/ 10 " ,
12./ 9 " .. 2./ 8 " .
SIZE C.ONVERSION C.HART
SIZE c. 8 lO 12. 14 u. 18 6UST 34 3S 3C. 38 40 42. 44 'lo(AIST 2.S 2.C. 2.7 2.8 31 34 38 HIP 3S 3{o 37 3 9 4 2. 44 48
2.0 4C. 40 so
BAc.K IS~ I C. l{oY4 IC.~ I C.~ ,,.'!14- 17 17 V.r.
ME. TA L STAYS SIZE b - blll "l 10110"1 4/9"1 8/8 '"1 2 /7 " SIZE 8 - '-112. ", 10/11 ", 4/10 '", 10/9• , 2../8 " SIZE lO - '-112. ", 10/11 ", 4/lO " , 12/9", 2.. /8 " SIZf. 12. - '-112. ", lO/li " 1 4/lO ", 12./9 .O 1 2. /8 " SIZE 14 - '-112. • .. 10111 •, 4110", 14/9 '", 2../8 " SIZf. lb - b/13 " , 10/12.. .. , 4/11 ", 1'-110 ", 2../9 " SIZE 18 - "-113 ", 10112. .. ' 4/11 "1 18/10 ", 2./9 " StZf. 2.0 - b/14 " , 10113 '"1 4/12." 2.0/11"1 2.110"
nfESE QUANTITIES fOR METAL STAYS ARE APPROXIMATE ANO MAY C.HANGE AS THE C.ORSET 1s· FII I EO ANO TAKEN UP • .
12
COKSL 1· · · 18"0
13
PATTERN MAKING • • • 186o's CORSET
CUT TWO EAC.H OF THE PAI I ERN PIEC.ES, PLUS TWO 'EAC.H FOR THE C.ORSET LINING.
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TO ENLARGE AN EXISTING C.ORSET PAI JERN T AK.E C.AREFUL MEASUREMENTS OF THE SU8JEC. T AND COMPARE THE MEASUREM ENTS TO THE PATTERN PIEC.ES. REM EMBER THAT THERE ARE 2.4 SEAM EDGES IN A 12. PIE C. E C.ORSET. I F VOU N.EED AN EXTRA 3 "' IN T HE UNDER- 8UST AREA, THEN DIVIDE 3 • BY 2.4 . VOU WILL 8 E ADDING ~,.. TO EAC.H SEAM. IF ~ ., IS NEEDED IN THE HIP AREA, THEN DIVIDE ~ "' BV 2.4 ANO ADD Y-+• TO EAC.H SEAM EDGE.
14
SIZ.I:. E.NLARGf..MfNT DIAGRI\M
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ntE ltPPAOXIMATE AODITIOM TO E AC:M SEAH IS ~" TO Y+•. F01t A ltE.I>UC-TIOM IM SIZ.E CUT .SUC.MTL"{ .Sfii\AU . .E.R ANO FIT TO WUUt.ER •
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FIT ~ORSET NOW. PIN OR BA STE THE ~ENTER FRONT SEAM. THE 6A~K SEAM OF THE ~ORSET SHOULD HAVE A GAP OF UP TO 2. ". Til E ~ORSET SHOULO LOOK SM OOTH ON THE 600Y. AOJUSTMENTS ~AN 6 E EASILY MAOE 6Y TAKING UP SEAMS IN LARGER ~ORSET SE~ TIONS.
A FTER. ALL SEAMS HAVE 6EEN TAKEN UP TO T HE ~ORRE~T SIZE ANO MA~HINEO STIT~HED .. TRIM EA~H SEAM TO THE REQUIREO y..q. " SIZ E . STEAM PRE SS EA~H SEAM IN THE SAME OIRE~TION A~ROSS THE WIOTH OF THE ~ORSET. TURN ~ORSET OVER ANO PRESS AG.AIN. VOU ARE NOW REAOY TO APPL Y THE RI860N STAY ~OVERS.
17
HAVE A FRIEND HELP \o/ITH THIS FII IING. THI:RE SHOULD 8E A 2. " GAP AT 8AC.K OPENING FOR REOUC.TION OF THE \o/AIST. . START TAKlNG UP SEAMS A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL THE C.ORREC.T FIT IS AC.HIEVED. 8E SURE TO TAKE THE SAME AMOUNT OUT OF THE MATC.HING SEAM ON THE OTHER SIDE OF C.ORSET.
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-
WHEN FITTING IS COMPLETE ON 80TH THE OUTER FA6RIC. ANO LINING, TRIM ALL SEAMS 00\o/N TO V..tt':
STI:.AM PRESS ALL SEAMS TO\o/ARD 6AC..K OPENING. ON THE FRONT SIOE OF C.ORSET RI:INFORC.E SEAMS 6Y TOP STITC.HING. FOLLO\o/ THE SAME PROC.EDURE \o/ITH C.ORSET LINING.
15'
PIN C.ORSET OUTER FA8RIC. TO C.ORSET LINING. lAV FRONT C.LASP ON C.ORSET FRONT OPENING
ANO MARK ON EAC.H SIOE OF C.LASP HOOKS. ON THE OTHER SIOE OF FRONT OPENING INOIC.ATE WHERE HOLES WILL 8E C.UT FOR INSERTION OF CLASP EVES. AT 8AC.K OPENING STEAM PRESS IN
~------~ IRON-ON C.ANVAS TO STRENGTHEN
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EYELET AREA.
MAC.HINE STITC.H AC.ROSS TOP OF C.ORSET ANO OOWN 8AC.K SEAM. STITC.H FRONT SEAM AS INOIC.ATEO IN ORAWING. STITCH UP TO MARKS ANO 8ACK STITC.H TO LOC.K THREAO. SKIP TO NEXT MARK ANO 00 THE SAME. THE METAL HOOKS OF THE FRONT CLASP SHOULO SLIDE EASIL V INTO THESE OPENINGS. T\JRN CORSET RIGHT SIOE OUT AND STEAM PRESS.
SLIDE FRONT CLASP HOOKS INTO DESIGNATED OPENINGS ANO PIN IN POSITION. CHECK MARKS
•
fOR HOLES ON THE OTHER SIDE Of FRONT OPENING. USE AN ICE PICK OR NAIL TO PUNCH SMALL HOLES FOR CLASP EYES. INSERT CLASP EYES ONTO HOLES ANO PIN CLASP FIRML V AGAINST SEAM. USE A Z.IPPER FOOT TO STITCH NEXT TO 80TH CLASP PIECES.
WITH A CHALK PENCIL MARK ON · THE LINING WHERE ALL STAYS WILL 8E INSERTED. ORAW A
' UNE ON EITHER SIDE OF THE STAY WHERE STITCHING WILL BE LOCATED. MACHINE STITCH AROUNO EACH STAY POCKET LEAVING EACH POCKET 80TTOM OPEN. SUDE METAL STAYS INTO EACH POCKET ANO STITCH IT CLOSED AT 8oTTOM.
20
SE W' A 2. ,. PIEC.E Of FAC.ING DOW'N E AC.H SIOE OF 8AC.K OPENING. lRON - ON C.ANVAS li YL" W'IDEJ SHOULD ALREADY 8 E APPLIED DOW'N THE 8AC.K OPENING FOR EXTRA STRENGTH. TURN FAC.ING UNOER1 STEAM PRESS1 PIN ANO MAC.HINE STITC.H. SEW' A SEAM ~" . FROM 8AC.K EOGE TO C.REATE THE POC.KET FOR A M ETAL STAY. INSERT METAL STAYS IN POC.KETS ON 80TH SIDES OF 8AC.K OPENING.
21
SPAC.E EYELETS f Y1-• APART ANO MARK W'HERE THEY W'ILL 8E INSERTEO. USE A HAMMER ANO SMALL HOLE PUNC.H TO C.UT THROUGH ALL LAYERS. WORK ON A PIECE Of W'OOO. PUSH EYELETS THROUGH FROM FRONT SIDE Of fA8RlC.. FUP FA8RlC. OVER ANO SET EYELETS W'ITH METAL SETTING TOOL ANO HAMMER .
TURN A ~· · SEAM TO THE INSIOE ALONG C.ORSET 80TTOM EOGE. PRESSI PINI ANO STITC.H C.LOSEO. PIN LAC.E ANO RI880N TRI.M ALONG LOW'ER EOGE Of C.ORSET ANO STITCH IN POSITION.
PIN LAC.E ANO RI880N TRIM TO TOP EOGE Of C.ORSET. HANO STITC.H IN POSITION. FOR EXTRA TRIM1 AOO A SMALL 80W' AT TOP C.ENTER ANO 80TTOM Of FRONT C.LOSURE.
22
FA8RIC ANO NOT IONS: ( SIZE 12.) I VO. FA8RIC, I I YO. LINING FA8RIC, 2. 1/;z ... VOS. I " SATIN RI880N, I Y2- VOS. INSERTION LACE, I !h.. VOS. I NSERTION RI880N, I VDS. I " EYELET LACE, Y~ VO. IRONON CANVAS INTERFACING, 14 ,. M ETAL CENTf:R FRONT CLASP, 3 0 #2. M ETAL EYELE.TS,. EYELET SE r JER, HOLE PUNCH, 6 VO. SHOE LACE.
SUGGESTED FA8RICS: SATIN 8ROCAOE, SILK, COTTON 8ROCADE , TAFFETA, COUTIL, SATIN RI880N, MOIRE TAFFETA RI880N, V ELVET RI880N, EYELET LACE, ANTIQUE LACE, CANVAS LINING, 8RUSHED COTTON LINING.
23
CHEMISE..
24
PATTERN GR\0 USE TRU- GRIO ANO DUPUC.ATE THE PAr 1 ERN BELOW'. MAKE YOUR SIZE ADJUST M ENTS NOW'. THE 8UST AREA SHOULD M EA SURE 2_ T O 4 "
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LARGER T HAN YOUR OW'N M EA SUREM ENTS. VOU C.AN LEN GTHEN OR SHORITN T HE C.HEMISE A S DESIRED.
LAY THE T RU- GRIO PAI r ERN PIEC.ES ON YOUR FOLOED FABRIC.. PLAC.E C.HEMISE C.ENTER FRONT ANO C.ENTER BAC.K ON T HE FOL O. CUT OUT All THREE PIEC.E S ANO SOME I Yt.." BIAS TAPE STRIPS . SE RGE T OGETHER SHOULDER SEAMS. GATHER T OP OF SLEEVE ANO PIN INT O ARM EYE. SERGE IN PLA C.E. SERGE SLEEvE ANO SIDE SEAM. ADD BlAS T APE TO N EC.KLINE START ING A T FRONT BELOW' C.ENTER N EC.K . FINISH DIAS 8Y LEAVING
25
AN OPENING A T CENTER FRONT NECKUNE TO INSERT DRAWSTRING.
• • I • I • I I I • \ I I
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USE A 50FT 8ATISTE FA8RIC FOR THE CHEMISE. CUT IT LARGER 50 'T HAT IT CAN 8E DRAWN UP AROUNO THE NECKLINE. THE CHEMISE CAN 8E SLEEVELESS, HAVE A NARROW SHOUL OER, HAVE AMPLE LACE TRIM OR MAOE PLAIN. THE CHEMISl MAKES THE CORSET A LITTLE MORE COMFORTA8LE.
8EFORE SEWING SIOE SEAMS APPL Y LACE TRIM.
26
CHOOSE A SOFT OLD FASHIONED LAC.E FOR C.HEMISE TRIM. GATHER ALONG ONE EDGE ANO PIN TO C.HEMISE AS DESIRED. 00 NOT RUN LAC.E INTO AREA W'HERE C.ORSET W'ILL FIT . MAC.HINE STITC.H LAC.E TRIM TO C.HEMISE. TINY R1880N TRIM IS A NIC.E C.OMPLEMENT.
27
ANTIQUE, HANO CROCHETEO L.ACE CAN AOO A SPECIAL. TOUCH TO THESE BATISTE OR SllK TOPS.
TINV PEARl 6UTTONS CAN BE AOOEO TO THE FRONT PlACKET.
FABRIC ANO NOTIONS; I Y2.. VOS. BATISTE, 1- 4 VOS. LACE, 42. " ORAWSTRING, I YO. R1880N.
SUGGESTEO FABRICS: 8ATISTE, SILK, CHARMEUSE, SATIN CORO, ANTIQUE lACE, ANO 8UTTONS.
2C
DRAWERS
29
DRAWERS '* ·- ~ ' .; ·' '
J-H.+J-+-1..,-I-~,~·J:.:.il4-c;4'-•~l -1- ~-+-..j.4-4-~-+-~1ILi l \· , '' . ' 11 , i"
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COPV THE DIMENSIONS FOR THESE SIZE 12. DRAWERS ONTO TRU- GRIO FA6RIC.. E.NLARGE 6V ADDING THE EXTRA INC.HES VOU NEED, EVENLV TO THE SIDE SEAMS. TR.ANSFER PATTE.RN TO FA6RIC. VOU HAVE C.HOSEN. CUT OUT TWO FRONTS ANO TWO 6AC.KS.
30
SEW C.ENTER FRONT SEAMS TOGETHER. SEW C.EN I ER 6AC.K SEAMS TOGETHER. PIN FRONT TO 6ACK DRAWERS ANO STITCH SIOE SEAMS TOGETHER. PRESS ALL SEAMS OPEN. LNSEAM WILL 6E LEFT OPEN FOR EASY APPLICATION OF TRIM. FOLO t • OOWN A T WAISTLINE FOR ELASTIC CASING. MACHINE STITCH CASING ANO THREAO ELAST IC THROUGH. llGHTE N ANO TACK ELASTIC.
31
PIN ROWS OF EYELET OR LAC.E TRIH TO ORAWERS LEGS. SEW' ALL TRIH IN POSITION. SEW' INSEAH C.LOSEO.
FA8RIC. ANO NOTIONS= I !h. VOS. FABRIC., 1)(. VOS. 3 ... EYELET LAC.E, 3 VOS. 7_ "' EYELET LAC.E, I Ih,. VOS. E. YELET INSERTION LAC.E, ]_ VOS. INSERTION R1880N. I VD. Y2-" ELASTIC..
32
TRIM DESIGNS C.AN BE AS ORNATE AS DESIRED. A FEW EXAMPLES ARE SHOWN.
33
•
CORSlT· · ·1750
34
CORSET • • • • \750 FOLLO'W THE GRIO 8 ELOW ANO T RANSFER THE PATTERN PIEC.ES TO TRU- GRIO PELLON OR I " GRIO PAPER. CAREFULLY FOLLOW M EASUREM ENTS ANO ORAW ALL OIREC.TIONS ONTO THE PATTERN PIEC.ES WITH A FELT PEN. IF A OIFFERENT SIZE C.ORSET IS OESIREO, SEE THE C.HART AT THE 8ACK OF THIS 800K.
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CUT OUT . TRU- GRIO PAI I E RN PIEC.ES. ARRANGE FRONT SIOE ANO 8AC.K PATTERN PIEC.ES ON FOLOEO FA8RIC.. PIN IN POSITION ANO C.UT OUT. CUT PEPLUM PIEC.ES FROM REMAINING FA8RIC.. CUT MATC.HING LININGS FOR ALL OF THESE PIEC.ES. CUT SIOE, FRONT, ANO 8AC.K INTERFAC.INGS FROM IRON-oN c.ANVAS.
35
FRONT SU>E.
Y4° ME.TA\. Sli\V5 SHOULD BE OllDE.RED tN ~f.1lTAlN Lf.NG'lttS. FOil P. Sll..E. .1'1.. CORSETOitDE.R 2./fl", 1~/6'"., 4/JO", tS/12.'" ..r 8/to ".
THESE QUANTITIES FOR M ETAL STAYS ARE APPROXIMATE ANO MAY CHANGE AS THE CORSET IS FITTEO ANO TAKEN UP.
AN INEXPENSIVE PROOUCT T HAT WORKS WELL AS 80NING IS M ETAL STRAPPING USED ON CRATES ANO IN SHIPPING. TlfiS PROOUC"f MUST HAVE THE ENDS TIPPEO WITH A PLASTIC SEALER SO IT WILL NOT CUT THROUGH THE FABRIC. SPRAY PAINTING THIS M ETAL STRAPPING WITH A NON- RUSTING PAINT IS SUGGESTEO. THE AOVANTAGE OF THIS M ETAL 80NING IS COST ANO THE ABILITY TO CUT n: TO THE EXACT SIZE.
36
USE IRON-ON C.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING TO STIFFEN THE ARMHOLES ANO N EC.KUNE OF THE C.ORSET LINING. STEAM PRESS ALL INTERFAC.INGS IN POSITION. SEW LINING FRONT 80DIC.E SEAM TO SIDE 800IC.E PIEC.E ANO SIDE 800IC.E SEAM TO LINING 8ACK 800IC.E PIEC.E l AS SHOWN ). SEW OUTER FA8RIC. PIEC.ES TO EAC.H OTHER IN THE SAME MANNER. LEAVE THE 8ACK SEAMS OPEN .
37
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'
WITH PENC.IL ANO RULER DRAW' STITC.HING UNES FOR EVERY STAY POC.KET ON LINING FA8RIC.. WORK ON THE TOPSIDE OF C.ORSET LINING FA6RIC.. PIN OUTER C.ORSET TO C.ORSET UNING. WITH LINING FAC.ING UP MAC.HINE STITC.H EAC.H PENC.IL UNE TO PRODUC.E POC.KETS FOR STAYS. LEAVE TOP OF STAY POC.KETS OPEN FOR INSERTION OF STAYS. FINISH 60TTOM OF EAC.H STAY POC.KET 6Y MAC.HINE STITC.HING ~4- " A60VE LO\.IFR C.ORSET EDGE.
31
CUT ALL PEPLUM PIEC.ES. PIN ANO MAC.HINE STITC.H EAC.H PIEC.E Of PEPLUM TO LINING. llJRN AND PRESS. NUM8ER Of PEPLUM TABS WILL 8E GOVERNED 8Y WAIST LENGTH.
CAREFULLY PIN TA8 PIEC.ES TO WAIST SEAM OF C.ORSET. VISUAL L Y C.HEC.K TO 8E SURE PEPLUM TA8S HANG C.ORREC.TLY WHEN VIEWED FROM T HE FRONT . MAC.HINE STITC.H PEPLUM TA8S TO C.ORSET WAIST. fiNISH THE WAIST SEAM 8Y SERGING OR C.OVER THE SEAM WITH 81AS T APE.
•
39
FINISH THE 8AGK OPENING Of THE GORSET IN A SIMILAR MANNER AS THE VIG TORIAN GORSET. SEW A 8AGK FAGING DOWN 80TH SIDES Of 8AGK OPENING. FOLD IN1 PRESS1 ANO WHIP STITC.H FAC.ING TO FINISH 8AC.K SEAMS. MARK WHERE EYELETS l SMALL GROMMETS ) WILL 8E PLAGED. E YELETS SHOULD 8E PLAC.ED IN AISLE 8ETVE"EN TW'O 8AGK PIEC.ES OF 80NING. fOLLOW DIREC.TIONS FOR SETTING EYELETS ON PREGEDING PAGES. USE A 54 • SHOE LACE TO FASTEN C.ORSET.
40
FA8RIC. ANO NOTIONS : I YO. FA8RIC., I YD. LINING, I 'h.. YDS. RI880N, I YD. IRON-:-ON C.ANVAS, 2.0 SMALL GROMMETS, HOLE PUNC.H, GROM.M ET SE I I ER, 54 " SHOE LACE.
M ETAL STAYS : (srz.e. l'l.) 2../.ft>", 12./8 .. , 4jlo", 18/1'2..''' 8Jt0 .
THESE QUANTITIES FOR M ETAL STAYS ARE APPROXIMATE ANO MAY C.HANGE AS THE C.ORSET IS FIJ I EO ANO TAKEN UP.
SUGGESTEO FA8RIC.S : EM8ROIOERIEO TAPESTRY WEAVE, HEAVY 8ROC.AOE, VEL VET, SATIN. LINING FA8RIC.-C.ANVAS, SATIN, C.OTTON.
C.REWEL, WOOL,
MUSUN,
41
•
CORSELET · · ·1700
42
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l-fi' ~ ·· ~~ ~ ~ f1fl I I I I I I I I I I I li
FOLLOW THE GRID ABOVE ANO TRANSFER THE PAI I ERN PIEC.E S TO T RU-GRIO PELLON OR I " GRIO PAPER . CAREFULL Y FOLLOW MEASUREM ENTS ANO ORAW ALL OIREC.TIONS ONTO T HE PAI I ERN PIEC.E S WITH A FEL T PEN . lF A OIFFERE NT SIZE C.ORSET IS DESIREO., SEE THE C.HART AT THE 6At.K Of T HIS 600K.
CUT TWO EA C.H Of THE C.ORSELET FRONT _, 6At.K ANO STRAPS . 00 THE SAME WITH THE UNING FABRIC.. USE IRON- ON C.ANVAS T O C.UT FOUR FRONT INTERFA C.INGS. WIT H THE RIGHT SlOES Of FA6RIC. T OGETHER SEW T HE BAC.K SEAM. SEW SIDE SEAMS. PUT THE LINING PIEC.ES T OGETHER IN T HE SAME WAY.
43
PRESS C.ANVAS INTERFAC.ING TO LINING AT C.ENTER FRONT OPENING.
80NING WIU 6E APPLIED ONL Y TO C.ORSET LINING. USE A C.HALK PENC.Il TO INDICATE WHERE 60NING Wlll 6E SEWN TO LINING. FEATHER WEIGHT 60NING MAY 6E USED INSTEAD OF METAL 60NING. CUT 60NING TO SIZE ANO STEAM PRESS FLAT. PIN IN POSITION LEAVING A <'5./+ " SEAM AT THE TOP ANO 60TTOM Of C.ORSELET. USE MAC.HINE TO STITC.H DIREC.Tl Y DOWN C.ENTER Of EAC.H PIEC.E OF 60NING. AFTER All 60NING IS APPUED., STEAM PRESS C.ORSET LINlNG.
DECIDE 8EFOREHANO WHAT LOOK VOU WANT TO AC.HIEvE W1TH C.HOIC.E OF FABRIC., C.OLOR, TEXTURE, ANO T RIM.
PIN T HE C.HOSEN TRIM IN POSITION L EAVING ~ " SEAM AL.LOWANC.E ON OUTSIOE EOGES. MAC.HINE STITC.H ALL T RIM IN POSITION. PIN RIGHT SIOES OF C.ORSEL.ET TOGETHER ANO SEW TOP, 80TTOM ANO ONE FRONT SEAM. LEAvE THE OTHER SEAM OPEN FOR TURNING T HE GARMENT. TURN RIGHT SIOE OUT ANO PRESS.
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45
AFTER SEWING FRONT C.ORSET TO LINING, TURN ANO PRESS ON WRONG SIDE. FOLO OPEN SEAM TO THE INSIOE ANO HANO STITC.H c.t.OSED. MARK WHERE GROMMETS WILL 8 E PLAC.ED. CHOOSE A LARGE HOLE PUNC.H THAT WILL AC.C.OMMOOATE THIS Slz.E GROMMET. AS SUGGESTED 8 EFORE, WORK ON A PIEC.E OF WOOD.
PUSH GROMMETS INTO HOLES FROM FRONT SIOE OF FA8RIC. • ..--------::=r-...::---, FLIP C.ORSELET OVER ANO POSITION SEC.OND PART OF GROMMET INTO PLAC.E. USE A HAMMER ANO A SETTING TOOL ·To JOIN GROMMET PIE.C.ES TOGETHER TIGHTL V TltÍlÕÜGH FAHIUC.'
46
DECIDE 8 EFOREHANO WHAT l..OOK VOU WANT TO ACHIEVE W'ITH CHOICE OF FA8RIC1
COLOR1 TEXTURE1 ANO TRIM.
PIN T HE CHOSEN TRIM IN POSITION LEAVING ~ " SEAM All..OWANCE ON OUTSIOE EOGES. MACHINE STITC.H All T RIM IN POSIT ION. PIN RIGHT SIOES OF C.ORSELET TOGETHER ANO SEW TOP1 80TTOM ANO ONE FRONT SEAM. LEAVE T HE OTHER SEAM OPEN FOR T URNING THE GARMENT. TURN RIGHT SIOE OUT ANO PRESS.
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47
AFTER SE\o(ING FRONT CORSET TO· LINING, TURN ANO PRESS ON \o(RONG SIOE. FOLO OPEN SEAM TO THE INSIOE ANO HANO STITCH CLOSEO. MARK \o(HERE GROMMETS \o(ILL 8E PLACEO. CHOOSE A LARGE HOLE PUNCH THAT \o(ILL ACCOMMOOATE THIS SIZE GROMMET. AS SUGGESTEO 8EFORE, \o(ORK ON A PIECE Of \o(OOO • .
PUSH GROMMETS INTO HOLES
FROM FRONT SIDE Of FA8RIC. r-::::--f~~~ FLIP C.ORSELET OVER ANO POSITION SEC.ONO PART Of ª GROMMET INTO PLACE. USE ~ A HAMMER ANO A SETTING ""~ _ TOOL TO JOIN GROMMET PIEC.ES TOGETHER TIGHTL V THROUGH FABRIC.. 4&'
MAKE C.ORSELET STRAPS BY PINNING FABRIC. ANO UNING TOGETHER. STITC.H UP ONE SIDE AND OOWN THE OTHER LEAVING THE 80TTOM OF STRAP OPEN FOR TURNING. TURN ANO PRESS.
AOO TRIM. SERGE FIT C.ORSEJ...ET TO PROPER POSITION. C.ORSELET.
80TTOM EOGE Of STRAP. WEARER ANO PIN STRAPS IN MAC.HINE STITC.H STRAPS TO
49
HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE DIFFERENT STYLES THAT CAN 8E ACHIEVED WITH THE ADDITION OF TRIMS.
1\UYo\\l\\IUI.\\UlliS\ lUIUU11n11111 ~ ~ !-
~~\~ ~ \ 'i\ 1111'llt~~-·~\\~~ ~ \ \ -
~ ::>
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ENLARGE. CO~SE.LE.T ""f SAC.K ANO .510f. SE.AMS. TH E AODITION OF V.ct-" TO TftE..SE. SEAM E.DGES WIU. INCREJ\SE. TME. PRTTERN ONE. Sll:.E. .
""-~i- -.:ot~'l - ---- .... ~--- .... - .. ·:~v.&~~.~ ---- ~-.
,,_ __ ___ ' . : I------::n r: • • I I I .. . .. ' I I I • 111 'll ...
I I I I I I - ' .. I 11 :!f I fi I I I ... , , ' ... • : ', CORSEl..Eí COll.SELET :. : ••• ' I I . ' . I I • .. .
FfCOMT' ••• .. : ' Me"- 1•1 ... l i I • I' ... ••• ' o f I I t I •••
s~•~ I I I , ..
S lz.E. Jt.. o I : .. .: • ••• • "• , ' : ... ~ I I t ' . . .. : : ..
t I f ti I ... I I
. ~ . 111 .. . .. $U~ •" ... . . , .. o I I
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SI:<&. I C. &&11. ·~ 'JJ
ADOITIONAL 50NIM(j WILL &E. JIE.CC.ESSAR.V AS TME. COK.Sf..U:.T SI'Z..E. JNCJtE.ASE.S.
FA6RIC ANO NOTIONS : 3.Á YD. FA6RIC., ~4 YD. LINING FA6RIC, Y4 YD. I RON-oN CANVAS, 5 YDS . Pl..AST IC. 60NING, 8 VOS. TRIM, 10 SMAll GROMMETS, HOLE PUNCH, GROMMET S E I l ER, 3 fo " SHOE LACE OR LEATHER THONG.
FABRIC. SUGGESTIONS : HEAVY WOVEN FABRIC.S WITH A OESIGN, PETTIPOINT UPHOLSTERY FA8RIC, 8ROCADES, TRAPUNTO 1 CREW E L WORK, SUEDE, VELVET.
TRIM SUGGEST IONS : METALLIC 6RAlD, RI660N, TASSELS, 6UTTONS, APPLIQUES, TIPS, FLOWERS.
LACE , BOLO
51
SUPPUERS: PERFORMING ARTS SUPPLY C.OMPANY 11437 TODO HOUSTON, TEXAS 77055 I l713) "81- 8"88
RIC.HARD THE THREAD 83~0 M ELROSE AVENUE W . HOLL YWOOD, C.ALIFORNIA 900"9 I l2.13) 852.- 4997
AMAZON DRVGOOOS 2.~18 E . 11 TH STREET DAVENPORT, IA. ~803 I l319) 3~~-4138
•
~ ia a /UJ'Ht~~ ~ ~~ ~ ~ TiL tkJt4d7 .~ UUH~J!. ...e«~~ 7o ~ ~.IM~ur~~~ ~~~ ~,uuU~.
tff~M-
52
ALSO AVAILABLE. IN THIS SE.RIES:
THE UTTLE HATMAKING 800K
E.ASV TO FOLLOW GUIOE ON THE C.ONSTRUC.TION Of A LARGE BRIM TURN-of- THE-C.ENTURY HAT FRAME. PA f I ERNS, C.OVERING ANO TRIMMING TEC.HNIQUES SHOWN.
THE LI I I LE 80DICE 800K
A WORKBOOK ON BOOIC.E C.ONSTRUC.TION. A SIMPLE GUIOE USING ONE BASIC. 8001C.E PAl I ERN TO AC.HIEVE OIFFERENT STYLES ANO PERIOOS.
SOON TO BE PUBI..ISHEO: THE LI I I LE HATMAKING 800K 11
AN EASY TO FOLLOW GUIOE ON 8UILOING ELIU\BETHAN, TUOOR ANO R.ENAISSANC.E HATS FOR M EN ANO WOMEN.
ALSO AVAILABLE :
THE COSTUME WORKSHOP
A ' HO\oi'- TO' TELEVISION SERIES OEMONSTRATING EASY ANO EC.ONOMIC.Al METHOOS OF 8UILOING COSTUMES. ntESE SHO\oi'S ARE AVAILA8LE IN 30 MINUTE V .H . S •
• SHOW # I •••• LARGE BRIM VIC.TORIAN HAT FRAME C.ONSTRUC. TION.
SHOW # 2. ••• C.OVERING ANO TRIMMING A VIC.TORIAN HAT.
SHOW #3 ••• fROM GARAGE SALE TO RENAISSANC.E COSTUME.
SHOW # 4 ••• BUILOING A TURN-of- THE- C.ENTURY C.APE ANO SKIRT THE EASY WAY.
SHOW #S ••• fROM RESALE TO VIC.TORIAN WEOOING ORESS.
SHOW #~ ... AN " 1830 • UNifORM C.OAT fROM A NAVY 8LUE BLAZER.
53
SHOW # 7 ••• TRIMMING THf: VIC.TORIAN 'WEDDING DRESS FROM SHOW 5 .
SHO'W # S ••• A SMALL 80V 'S KNIGHT C.OSTUME THE EASV WAV.
SHOW #9 ••• 8UILDING LIGHT 'WEIGHT M EDIEVAL C.ROWNS.
SHOW #IO •• C.ON STRUC.TING AN INHVERNESS C.APE WITHOUT A PAI f ERN.
FOR A FREE BROC.HURE ANO FURTHER IHFORMATION C.ONTAC.T:
80NNIE HOL T AM8ROSE THE C.OSTUME '-IORKSHOP 417 REINic.KE HOUSTONI TEXAS 77007 I ( 713) 8b4-- 3%9
54
Bonnie Holt Ambrose's
ITTLE COSTUME WORKBOOKS
Bonnie Holt Ambrose h.as been designing, cuuing
and maintaining ·costumes in her own theatrical supply
company for 22 years. During tkat time, she lzas
discovered some time-saving and simple methods for
building hats and pen"od clothing and is slzarillg
chiS knowledge in her mini-book series. Each book
guides the reader through step-by-sup construc-
tion with waterco/or illustracions of various costume
parts. Bonnie's methods have proven popular
and easy-to-follow.
9
ISBN-13: 978-0-89676-130-8 ISBN - I 0: 0-89676- 130-4
90000
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