THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND

GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD

PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014

By

NISRINI KHAIRANI

016201400121

A Thesis presented to the Faculty of Humanities President University in partial

fulfillment of the requirements for Bachelor Degree in International Relations

Concentration in Diplomacy Studies

2018

ii

THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER

This undergraduate thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND

GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD

PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” prepared and

submitted by Nisrini Khairani in partial fulfillment of requirements for the Bachelor

degree in International Relations in the Faculty of Humanities has been review and

found to have satisfied the requirements for a thesis fit to be examined. I therefore

recommend this thesis for Oral Defense.

Cikarang, Indonesia, 7th May 2018

Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA.

Thesis Adviser

iii

DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY

I declare that this thesis, entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND

GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD

PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” is to the best of my

knowledge and belief, an original piece of work that has not been submitted, either in

whole or in part, to another university to obtain a degree.

Cikarang, Indonesia, 7th May 2018

Nisrini Khairani

iv

PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET

The Panel of Examiners declare that the thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION

OF THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE

WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” that was

submitted by Nisrini Khairani majoring in International Relations from the Faculty

of Humanity was assessed and approved to have passed the Oral Examinations on

May 9th, 2018.

Hendra Manurung, S.IP., MA.

Chair – Panel of Examiners

Dr. Endi Haryono, S.IP., M.Si.

Examiner

Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA.

Thesis Adviser

v

ABSTRACT

Thesis Title: The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen to

the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014

The use of food as a symbol of cultural identity is a tool of non-verbal

communication that governments can utilize in public diplomacy strategies to

promote their country on the global stage. Gastrodiplomacy is increasingly popular

branch of cultural diplomacy basically highlights and promotes awareness and

understanding of national culinary culture to foreign public. The promotion of

national cuisine within gastrodiplomacy is believed to attract the attention of foreign

public to assess the nation positively and strengthens relationships between countries.

The Thai government initiated the gastrodiplomacy approach through the “Kitchen to

the World” program to increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas to promote

its culinary heritage as one of the soft power tool, by allowing foreign public to

interact directly into their culture by coming to the restaurant and taste the authentic

cuisine. The Thai government is implementing Kitchen to the World program all

around the world, including to the United States of America. This research uses

qualitative method with analytical descriptive approach aimed to see the

implementation of Kitchen to the World initiative program taken by Thai government

in running Thailand gastrodiplomacy to the United States in the year of 2011-2014.

This research found that Thai gastrodiplomacy strategy by strengthening the presence

of Thai cuisine abroad became a way to enhance Thailand’s reputation and mutual

understanding as the establishment of Thai restaurant demand increased each year.

Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy,

Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen to the World, Thai cuisine

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ABSTRAK

Judul Skripsi: Pelaksanaan Gastrodiplomasi Thailand melalui Program Kitchen to

the World di Amerika Serikat 2011-2014

Penggunaan makanan sebagai lambang identitas budaya merupakan sarana

komunikasi non-verbal yang dapat digunakan pemerintah dalam strategi diplomasi

publik untuk mempromosikan negaranya di panggung global. Gastrodiplomasi adalah

cabang diplomasi budaya yang semakin populer pada dasarnya menyoroti dan

mempromosikan kesadaran dan pemahaman tentang budaya kuliner nasional kepada

publik asing. Promosi masakan nasional di dalam gastrodiplomasi diyakini mampu

menarik perhatian publik bangsa lain dalam menilai suatu bangsa secara positif yang

dapat menciptakan dan memperkuat hubungan antar Negara tersebut. Pemerintah

Thailand melakukan inisiatif pendekatan gastrodiplomasi melalui program “Kitchen

to the World” dengan meningkatkan jumlah restoran Thai diluar negeri untuk

mempromosikan warisan kulinernya sebagai alat soft power dengan memberikan

kesempatan kepada publik asing untuk berinteraksi secara langsung ke dalam

budayanya. Pemerintah secara aktif terlibat dalam kegiatan gastrodiplomasi Thailand

dengan mengutamakan “keaslian” dalam ekspor budaya kulinernya di luar negeri.

Penelitian ini menggunakan metode kualitatif dengan pendekatan deskriptif analitis

bertujuan untuk melihat penerapan dari inisiatif Kitchen to the World program yang

digunakan pemerintah Thailand dalam menjalankan gastrodiplomasinya di Amerika

Serikat tahun 2011-2014. Penelitian ini menemukan bahwa aktifitas gastrodiplomasi

yang dilakukan Thailand dengan memperkuat kehadiran masakan Thailand di

Amerika Serikat menjadi cara untuk meningkatkan reputasi Negara Thailand dan

sikap saling pengertian dilihat dari permintaan pendirian restoran Thailand yang

meningkat setiap tahunnya.

Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Diplomasi Publik, Diplomasi Budaya,

Gastrodiplomasi, Kitchen to the World, Masakan Thailand

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT

Bismillahirrahmanirrahim, In the name of Allah, the Most Beneficent, the Most

Merciful.

Alhamdulillahi Robbil ‘Alamin, all my praises to Allah for the strength, his blessing,

peace of my mind, good health, patience and knowledge to completing this research.

This writing becomes a reality with the kind support and help of many people. I

would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them.

My deepest heartfelt appreciation goes to my dear parents who served as my

inspiration to pursue this undertaking, Papa Wahyu Kurniawan and Mama Afriyanti.

Who sacrificed so much for me to give me the source of strength, financially, morally

and spiritually. It may take a lifetime to repay, but I will do anything to make you

proud. Perhaps the most important of things to be thankful for, is your unconditional

and undying love. To them I dedicate this thesis.

I would also thank to my Grandmother Rosma Suwarto, my Aunty Triyana, My twin

sister Nisrina Khairunnisa, my brother Nabil Nugraha and my entire extended family

for never-ending support and providing a loving environment for me.

I acknowledge, with deep gratitude and appreciation, the inspiration, encouragement,

valuable time and generously providing guidance given to me by my one and only

thesis advisor, Mr. Riski Muhammad Baskoro, S. Sos., MA. Thank you for

continuously encouraging me and pushing me to my limits to complete my thesis.

For the shoulder to lean on, Novia Sinta Tesalonika my only confidant, also

Muhammad Haekal Umri and Akila Paravathi for helping me get through the difficult

times, and for all the emotional support, camaraderie, entertainment, and caring they

provided since the first day in my university life.

viii

Wilma Putri Hellena who willingly helped me out with her abilities, how I truly value

your help when I faced difficulties in the completion of my thesis. Thank you for the

warm encouragement from Sekar Sugihartono and Nisa Nabila who have always been

with me for the past year and sparked a new spirit into my life.

I am particularly grateful to have wonderful friends who have helped me through the

last few years. Fintania, Logonta Tarigan, Cici Tobing, Evi Soedikto, Kurnia Utami,

Ivena Ersandi, Nur Afni Damanik, Jenny Stella, Anky Dirgantara, Jonathan

Christoforus and everyone I cannot mention. Thank you for listening, offering me

advice, and supporting me through this entire process. I am lucky to have wonderful

friends who have helped me through the last few years.

I must thank to the BPPK family in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, especially P3K2

Amerop, particulary Mr. Arsi Dwinugra and Mr. Dea Kurniawan for giving hands on

the making of this thesis, motivation and lesson during the time I spent in the office.

Finally, my thanks and appreciations also go to my fellow Presuniv who have fought

together to this junction in our life. Thank you to every one that have contributed on

my university life, especially International Relations batch 2014 where we encourage

and guided each other so we passed the amazing University life.

Last, but certainly not least, this thesis is a form of my passion on culinary as an

International Relations student. Besides being a requirement for me to pursue a

degree at President University this thesis is also expected to be useful for me and

others especially for those who believe in the power of Gastrodiplomacy. The

struggle that I face during the completion on my thesis taught me many lessons for

the future, it takes time, persistence, and patience to create anything worthwhile.

Cikarang, 7th May 2018

Nisrini Khairani

ix

TABLE OF CONTENTS

THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER ..................................................... ii

DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY ............................................................................. iii

PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET ............................................................... iv

ABSTRACT ....................................................................................................................... v

ABSTRAK ......................................................................................................................... vi

ACKNOWLEDGMENT .................................................................................................. vii

LIST OF FIGURE ............................................................................................................. xi

LIST OF TABLE ............................................................................................................. xii

CHAPTER I ....................................................................................................................... 1

INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................. 1 I.1. Background of Study ...................................................................................................... 1 I.2 Problem Identification ................................................................................................... 8 I.3 Statement of Problem ................................................................................................... 10 I.4 Research Objective ........................................................................................................ 10 I.5 Significance of Study ..................................................................................................... 10 I.6 Theoretical Framework ............................................................................................... 11

I.6.1 Soft Power..............................................................................................................................................11 I.6.2 Public Diplomacy ...............................................................................................................................12 I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy ............................................................................................................................13 I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy .................................................................................................................................15

I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study .................................................................................. 20 I.8 Research Methodology ................................................................................................. 21 I.9 Research Instrument .................................................................................................... 21 I.10 Structure of Thesis ...................................................................................................... 23

CHAPTER II ................................................................................................................... 24

LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................................ 24 II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World Politics”, Public

Affairs......................................................................................................................................................................24 II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing (2002), Public

Diplomacy .............................................................................................................................................................26 II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of Culture” ...........28 II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue: Gastrodiplomacy .........................29 II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds” ...............31

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II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and Comparing

Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign .......................................................................................32 II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai

America” ................................................................................................................................................................33

CHAPTER III ................................................................................................................. 35

THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD ...... 35 III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine .................................................................................... 36

III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine .......................................................................................................36 III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine .......................................................................39

III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck Administration 2011-

2014......................................................................................................................................... 42 III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy ......................................... 45

III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry ..........................................................................48 III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States ............................................................ 52 III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote Thailand Identity

.................................................................................................................................................. 54 III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States ........................................................56 III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select”.....................................................................58

III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating Habit .................. 64

CHAPTER IV .................................................................................................................. 67

THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM IN THE

UNITED STATES .......................................................................................................... 67 IV.1 Food and Diplomacy ................................................................................................... 67 IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of the World

2011-2014 ............................................................................................................................. 71 IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School .................................................................................................72 IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the United States

...............................................................................................................................................................................75 IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States .................................. 80 IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the United States

of America 2011 – 2014 ..................................................................................................... 87

CHAPTER V ................................................................................................................... 94

CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................ 94

BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................................................................................... 97

APPENDIX ................................................................................................................... 104

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LIST OF FIGURE

CHAPTER I

Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer 16

Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 17

CHAPTER III

Figure 3.1 Kitchen of the World logo 45

Figure 3.2 Thailand Thai Food and American Thai Food 57

Figure 3.3 Thai Select Premium and Thai Select logo 59

Figure 3.4 Authentic Thai Restaurant Service 61

Figure 3.5 Authentic Thai restaurant interior design 61

Figure 3.6 Traditional Performance in the Thai Restaurant

61

CHAPTER IV

Figure 4.1 Former PM Yingluck awarded “Thai Select” certification to the

Thai restaurateurs

74

Figure 4.2 Thai Select restaurant growth graphic 75

Figure 4.3 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 76

Figure 4.4 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 84

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LIST OF TABLE

CHAPTER IV

Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States 71

Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 75

Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014 78

1

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

I.1. Background of Study

Maintaining international relations is an important factor for fostering mutual

understanding among nations, working together to achieve the nation’s interests and

creating prosperity of the nation. The post-cold war era has given more dimensions to

international realm, which can be seen through the expanded actors within the

practice of international relations. 1 Aware of the existence of non-state actors in

international relations, countries then have to provide different approaches to engage

with various actors. Engaging with varies of actors itself is needed to support the

achievement of national interest. Soft power then becomes an important factor for

countries to approach non-state actors since it is believed that the use of hard power is

not suitable for this attempt. The use of attraction through a country’s soft power is

believed to be more effective to approach those actors compared to the use of

coercion and inducement through hard power that is also identic with economic and

military might.2

As Joseph Nye wrote on his book Soft power: The means to success in world

politics, he defined soft power as "The ability to have an impact on the behavior of

other actors - to affect the opportunities available to others and their willingness to

choose particular courses of action."3 There are three sources of soft power which

are culture when it is attractive to others, political values which is getting lived up by

1 Wadlow, R. (n.d.). Reviewed Work: Non-state Actors in International Relations by Bas Arts, Math.

International Journal on World Peace, 19(3), 97–100. 2 Nye, J. S. (2004). Soft power: The means to success in world politics. New York: Public Affairs. 3 Ibid.,

2

the people domestically and abroad, and the other one is foreign policies there are

seen to be legitimate.4 Soft power definition can be concluded as a superior national

resource as the ability of the state that can be used to influence other countries in

order to achieve the desired results or interests. Soft power is applied as a foreign

policy instrument that is run by a state.

In adapting to international dynamics, a state will continuously conduct

diplomacy to maintain relationship towards other countries. Diplomacy is usually

associated with a peace mission, in addition diplomacy is also used as a means in

promoting important sectors of a country to achieve the national interest through

public diplomacy at the international level. Public diplomacy is a form of diplomacy

that changes and evolves along with the development of increasingly complex

international relations.5 The term of public diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by

Edmund Gullion as an interaction by the government and interest groups by

promoting soft power sources aimed in shaping public opinion in order to generate

awareness or create a positive nation image.6

In addition, that may have been regarded of a culture as only a complement,

but actually might be very powerful and potentially affects many people in the

simplest way; i.e. using food. Closely linked to culture, food that is considered as "the

oldest diplomatic instrument"7, it has been used by many countries to create a cross-

cultural understanding, which aims to enhance interaction and cooperation in

4 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of

Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 5 Szondi, G. (2008). Public Diplomacy and Nation Branding: Conceptual Similarities and

Differences. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy.

Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’ 6 "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC Center on Public Diplomacy.

(2006, June 9). Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy-gullion-

evolution-phrase

7 Mentioned by Hillary Clinton, former Secretary of State, Senator of New York State

3

international relations.8 Food has the ability in representing the history, traditions and

culture of a country, as Brillat-Savarin said, national cuisine is an important way in

which countries can define themselves. On his famous quotation, Brillat-Savarin

stated that “The destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed. Tell

me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are”.9

The widening role of food utilization in diplomacy gave birth to the term

Gastrodiplomacy. It first appeared in The Economist article in 2002 which contains a

systematic Thai government policy to present Thai restaurants all around the world,

the government also claims that the international community has an interest in the

taste of the country. 10 Since then, gastrodiplomacy became a phenomenon that

develops in international relations. It is called gastrodiplomacy when diplomacy

combines with ethnic food of a nation intended to invite foreign audience to taste and

consume the cuisine as part of their life.11 In a simple definition, Paul Rockower

believe that gastrodiplomacy is “the act of winning hearts and mind through

stomach”.12 A nation cuisine becomes a mean to implement public diplomacy and

cultural diplomacy for highlighting the unique agricultural, culinary heritage, cultural

traditions, and national brand of the nation.13 It is a more effective way of becoming

an intermediary of non-verbal communication that can unite all dimension of

8 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. Retrieved from http://culinarydiplomacy.com/wp-

content/uploads/2013/09/breaking-bread-to-win-hearts-and-minds.pdf

9 Ibid., 10 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from

https://www.economist.com/node/999687 11 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3),

235-246. Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1057/pb.2012.17

12 Ibid., 13 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at

TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4

4

community, it can provide many important roles in connecting people-to-people, as

well as state-to-public.14

Gastrodiplomacy is an official activity organized by the government of a

country that includes the exchange of food culture between individuals, either

through migrant ethnic restaurant around the globe. 15 Gastrodiplomacy should be

easily accessible and rely on the world community because it is important for cultural

exchange in globalized world and it has a more real impact in daily life.

Gastrodiplomacy is expected to create a better image of a country and might be able

to strengthen the identity of the nation in international relations.

Thailand is the first nation which discovered its potential in gastrodiplomacy

and introduce it to the global stage since 2002 by using the restaurant as the pioneer

in cultural diplomacy. 16 The success of Thai government implements its

gastrodiplomacy is followed by other countries such as Japan, South Korea,

Malaysia, Peru, Taiwan and the United States. Japan’s UNESCO Washoku campaign

has launched in 2013 well known with its Sushi Diplomacy17, Peru with Cocina

Peruana Para El Mundo and the program aims to register the cuisine and culture of

Peru to UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity to be recognized by

the world community.18 South Korea with Korean Cuisine to the World in 2009 and it

seriously promotes kimchi to the whole world19, Malaysia with Malaysian Kitchen

for The World campaign in 2010, Taiwan government initiate the All in Good Taste:

14 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved

from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 15 Badan Pengkajian dan Pengembangan Kebijakan. (2016). Gastrodiplomasi Sebagai Penjuru

Diplomacy Ekonomi Indonesia. Kementerian Luar Negeri Republik Indonesia. 16 Rockower, P. S. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrieved from

https://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html 17 Bestor, T. C. (2014). Most F(l)avored Nation Status: The Gastrodiplomacy of Japan’s Global

Promotion of Cuisine | Public Diplomacy Magazine. Retrieved from

http://www.publicdiplomacymagazine.com/most-flavored-nation-status-the-gastrodiplomacy-of-

japans-global-promotion-of-cuisine/ 18 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand,

and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20.

Retrieved from https://surface.syr.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1014&context=exchange

19 Ibid.,

5

Savor and Flavors of Taiwan but better known as Dim Sum Diplomacy since 2010 as

the President Ma Ying-jeou said “taking Taiwan’s food to the world” 20, and the

United States government officially launched their program in 2012 named Culinary

Diplomacy Partnership Initiative, as well as Australia with its global campaign

There’s Nothing Like Australia include the gastrodiplomacy program Restaurant

Australia in 2014 aims to promote its cuisine at 12 international markets.21

Thailand gastrodiplomacy program first launched in 2002 which was initiated

and supported under prior Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra who pay attention

to the country’s competitiveness ranking.22 The program named “Global Thai” was

aimed to increase the number of restaurants in a year, then in October 2003 the

government launched “Thailand Kitchen of the World” in order to further promote

Thai cuisine abroad with a wider scope.23 By continuing the previous policy, the Thai

government under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra has a policy to promote the

"Kitchen to the World” program by supporting Thai restaurant entrepreneurs abroad

while opened the door to the export of raw materials and Thai food product, which

aims for Thailand to be a major food exporter, and raising awareness of food security

under changing world condition that may lead to food shortage.24 The government’s

first step was through establishing Thai restaurants as much as possible in all over the

world to encourage more people to eat authentic Thai cuisine.25 An eBook published

to promote the Thailand: Kitchen to the World program states the following:

20 Booth, R. (2017, November 26). Taiwan launches 'gastro-diplomacy' drive. Retrieved from

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/aug/08/taiwan-launches-gasto-diplomacy-drive

21 There's Nothing Like Australia - Corporate - Tourism Australia. Retrieved from

http://www.tourism.australia.com/en/about/our-campaigns/theres-nothing-like-australia.html 22 Andrews, T. G., & Sununta, S. (2009). The changing face of management in Thailand. Milton Park,

Abingdon: Routledge. 23 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

24 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck

Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 25 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

6

“Thai cuisine from the past to the present is a proud heritage of the Thai

people that they believe is second to none, and it has been handed down through

generations. At the same time, Thai food and Thai cooking reflect the wisdom and

culture of the Thai nation. Today, Thai food and Thai cuisine stand ready to make

Thailand a proud Kitchen of the World”.26

In the first year of the program there were 5500 Thai restaurants around the

world, with an ambition, Thai government initiative wanting to raise the number to

8000 restaurants in 2003.27 Currently there are approximately 20,000 Thai restaurants

in every corner of the globe.28 This rapid increase is achieved by various strategies,

run in parallel by various ministries, government departments and collaborations with

private sectors.29 EXIM Bank of Thailand supported with an annual budget of 500

million Bath to support Thai investors who intend to open Thai restaurants in foreign

countries.30 To maintain the authenticity of Thai cuisine at least 60%, the Royal Thai

government, Ministry of Commerce established “Thai Select” as identification

certificate program which encouraged foreign audiences awareness towards authentic

Thai cuisine.31 Moreover, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce,

the Ministry of Labour, , the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the Ministry of Industry,

Kasetsart University, the Thailand National Food Institute and many more are also

involved in encouraging Thai food globalization overseas by provides professional

Thai cooks and entrepreneurship training, conducting Thai food festival overseas,

26 Ibid 27 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department,. “Thai Restaurants All Over the

World. (2006, July 26) Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/. 28 http://thaiembdc.org/2017/10/24/fifty-percent-of-thai-restaurants-are-in-the-us-and-canada/ 29 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN 30 Thai Food To World. Financial Loan. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/financial-detail.php?cms_id=8 31 Thai Select. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=policy

7

monitoring and coordinating Thai restaurants overseas, inspecting exports and be the

mediator on any agreement between related countries.32

Aims set out by Thai government from the Kitchen to the World program are:33

To support the increase of Thai restaurant business overseas with the real

Thailand's high standard of service and tastes.

Making Thai restaurant as a leading substation and information center for

foreign public as well as marketing ”One Tambon One Product”

Thailand to become one of the world's leading food exporters with the highest

credibility and competitive prices

To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai

recipes

Thai restaurants abroad were originally established to accommodate Thai

migrants and bring them closer to home. Thai migrants needed a way to make money

and opened a restaurant. At first, they catered to people in their own community and

apparently, most customers not only Thais, but also the western find out how good

the food was and consume Thai food and cuisine on as regular basis.34 This is one of

the factors that driving the government's initiative to undertake gastronomic

approaches at the global level.

Thailand government have been continuously implement the kitchen to the

world program in various countries all around the world. The United States (US), is

not an exception. Relations between Thailand and US as diplomatic partners have

been established since early 19th century.35 Both countries have fought shoulder to

shoulder in every major conflict since World War II. As the first ally in Southeast

32 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

33 Ibid., 34 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press.

35 Ibid.,

8

Asia, Thailand became the prime base of the United States during Vietnam War, also

a prime Rest & Recuperation hub for American soldiers.36 Up into recent times, Thai

and US developed close relations and redefined their partnership to meet modern

global challenges.37 The cooperation between these countries took place in various

fields such as military, economy, trade, science and technology. In economic, the

main bilateral arrangement is Treaty of Amity and Economic Relations signed in

1966 which regulates the ease of Thai and US economic access.38

The close relationship between Thailand and US has brought Thai people to

migrate to US especially to Los Angeles and bring ethnic cuisine across the

continent. 39 Thai cuisine is one of the Asian cuisines that has attracted many

Americans. 40 The government saw it as one of the opportunities to develop

gastrodiplomacy to the US. The Thai government looks at the popularity of Thai

cuisine in Los Angeles before developing the political economy program. 41 As a

testing site of Kitchen of the World, the response of the food festivals and Thai

restaurants in LA has provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai

government about the potential of Thai cuisine to succeed in the United States and

worldwide.42

I.2 Problem Identification

Thailand is a rich country with various unique traditions, cultural heritages

and plenty of natural resources. Food is the face of Thailand, the cuisine relies on

36 Ibid., 37 Tow, W. T., & Stuart, D. (2014). The New US Strategy Towards Asia: Adapting to the American

Pivot. Routledge Security in Asia Pacific Series. 38 Thailand US Amity Treaty. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thailawforum.com/database1/amity.html 39 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian

Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.

40 Ibid., 41 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press.

42 Ibid.,

9

herbs and spices to give a varied in appearance, aroma, color and tastes. Prime

Minister Yingluck stated that the Thai people are proud of the rich tradition and

popularity of Thai cuisine on a global level. The popularity of Thai cuisine in

America is utilized by the Thai government as an opportunity to hold public

diplomacy to enhance the competitiveness of the country.

The gastrodiplomacy program presents as one of the instruments of public

diplomacy conducted by Thailand government in shaping the country's image, greater

recognition and enhanced economic cooperation. Beginning with the Global Thai

program in 2002, the government tried to design several programs to introduce Thai

cuisine to be recognized by the world community to get the image as a country with a

wealth of diverse culinary. This effort continues with the Kitchen to the World policy

under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra as a form of sustainability of the

gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken.

Thailand has implement its gastrodiplomacy in various of countries including

United States. Thai gastrodiplomacy program implemented in the US can be assumed

to have a positive result, this can be seen from the Thai restaurant industry that has

exploded in large numbers in a short time in US. The beginning of 1990s there were

around 200 Thai restaurants located only in Los Angeles to accommodate Thai

immigrants and to bring them closer to home.43 By the end of 2017 there are 5,269

Thai restaurants all over the USA. 44 Although Thailand is facing political instability,

the government initiative in cultural diplomacy lives on. The popularity of Thai

cuisine has created a significant identity for Thailand, Thai cuisine has the potential

to promote its soft power. Thus, gastrodiplomacy activities can enhance the positive

image of Thailand through its cuisine uniqueness so that it plays an important role to

promote awareness and understanding of Thai cuisine culture.

43 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's: Thai cuisine in transition. Food and

Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. 44 Thai Restaurant Index - ThaiCuisine.com. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://thaicuisine.com/list.html

10

The objectives of this research are to study and analyze the implementation of

Kitchen to the World policy limited to 2014 and started from 2011 which was the

launch time of this program under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra. Here will be

seen from the time range what efforts have been done by Thailand in the

implementation of the program, especially in the United States. Furthermore, this

research also aims to analyze how Thai cuisine used as a soft power tool has the

possibility to enhance Thailand reputation in the United States. Therefore, this thesis

is entitled “The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen

to the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014”

I.3 Statement of Problem

Based on the explanation of the background of the problem, then can be drawn the

following problem question:

“How was the implementation of Thailand gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of

the World program in the United States on the period of 2011 - 2014? ”

I.4 Research Objective

To know Thai gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of the World program that

conducted by Thai government

To examine the implementation of Thai gastrodiplomacy in the United States

I.5 Significance of Study

Contributing in the study of International Relations related to gastrodiplomacy

which is a new study in IR, especially those implemented by Thailand

Highlight of the use of nation cuisine as Thailand’s cultural heritage as one of

the effective tools to promote the country

11

I.6 Theoretical Framework

In answering the question, the writer uses four concepts to discover, describe

and explain the object of research as well as being point of view of the research. The

concepts are Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy and

Gastrodiplomacy. The theory's approach is relevant to explain how Thailand is using

the Kitchen of The World program in an effort to build a culinary image of Thailand.

I.6.1 Soft Power

The concept of soft power was first introduced by Joseph S, Nye an American

political scientist of Harvard University in 1990. The concept of power or sometimes

called co-optive power itself according to Nye is “the ability to attract or repel other

actors to want what you want”. 45 This applies in the context of the current diplomacy

which prioritizes non-state actors in negotiating with others to get the desired interest

as well as the absence of violence and coercion. Can be seen in the activities as seen

in the form of public diplomacy, economic diplomacy, cultural diplomacy, sports

diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy.

According to Nye, the use of soft power can be used in capacities that cannot

be identified by hard power. What Nye means is that when the era of globalization is

very easy to touch the level of society using a communication strategy (example: the

internet). Soft power can also build peace relations between countries.

Many times, though not always, which serve as identifiers to designate the

uniqueness of a particular place is the culinary of the area. For example, Thailand

identic with Tom Yam, South Korea is identical with Kimchi, Taiwan identic with

Dim Sum and so on. This means that food is one way to look at cultural identity.

Kitchen of the World is one form of soft power owned by the Thai government.

Where through its gastrodiplomacy program invites foreign public to get tasting and

45 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.

12

recognize the Thai cuisine by coming to Thai ethnic restaurants and indirectly make

the global community want to come directly to Thailand to witness the unique and

diverse culture of Thailand.

I.6.2 Public Diplomacy

The term of Public Diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by Dean Edmund

Gullion of Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, Tufts University. He defines

public diplomacy as follows:

"the influence of public attitudes on the formation and execution of foreign

policies. It encompasses dimensions of international relations beyond

traditional diplomacy (including) the cultivation by governments of public

opinion in other countries; the interaction of private groups and interests in

one country with those of another (and) the transnational flow of information

and ideas.46

According to the US Department of State, public diplomacy is a government-

sponsored program intended to inform or influence public opinion in other countries

through publication, films, cultural exchange, radio, television, etc. 47 In general,

public diplomacy is defined as an activity of communication relations that occurs

between the government and the foreign public. The relationship through public

diplomacy is then expected to create a good environment for people across countries

to work together and promote the growth of transactions between them. Public

diplomacy is a method to improve soft power and the interests of a country as soft

power itself gives a significant influence on the diplomatic achievements of a

46 Cull, N. J. (2006, June 9). "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC

Center on Public Diplomacy. Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy-

gullion-evolution-phrase 47 U.S. Department of State, Dictionary of International Relations Terms, 1987, p. 85

13

country.48 In his writing, Jay Wang sees public diplomacy as a country's endeavor to

improve the quality of communication between the state and society in which the

implementation of public diplomacy does not make the government a single actor,

but also with community participation the country concerned.49

By shaping the perceptions of others (tends to be related to intangible assets)

such as cultures, interesting personalities of a country, and political and policy values

that have moral authority. The main purpose of this diplomacy is to generate interest

and also mutual respect between countries. 50 Public diplomacy conducted by

Thailand is government-sponsored program which is intended to influence public

opinion in other countries related to Thailand's own image. The main instrument used

by the Thai government in this research is the use of Gastrodiplomacy as a cultural

exchange.

I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy

Culture in the study of social science is often identified with the values of

tradition, customs and characters of society that then form the civilization. Cultural

diplomacy is a diplomacy that utilizes the cultural aspect to meet its national interests

in the international community. This is the way a country demonstrates the degree of

civilization of a nation to influence or improve the attitudes and opinion of the

foreign community towards a country.

The concept of cultural diplomacy is the use of a country's culture by

exchanging ideas, information, art, to influence or inspire the international

community and foster a mutual understanding. Milton C. argues that ‘ it can also be

more of a one-way street than a two-way exchange, as when one nation concentrates

48 Dewangga, T. A. (2017). Meningkatkan Branding Negara Melalui “Gastro Diplomacy”. Retrieved

from http://setkab.go.id/meningkatkan-branding-negara-melalui-gastro-diplomacy/ 49 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41-49.

doi:10.1108/02756660610663826 50 Taylor, H. (2007). The Not-So-Black Art of Public Diplomacy. World Policy Journal, 24(4), 51-59.

doi:10.1162/wopj.2008.24.4.51

14

its efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies and point of

view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.51 Furthermore, as stated by Erik

Pajtinca in his journal “aimed at the promotion of foreign policy interests of this state

in the realm of cultural policy primarily by means of fostering its cultural exchange

with other (foreign) states”52

Basically, cultural diplomacy is a process of approach, relationship building

and increase mutual understanding.53 The term culture itself has such a broad aspect,

such as history, languages, customs, traditions, music, lifestyle, literature and social

relationships. But cultural diplomacy is not always about ancient or traditional

cultures because cultural diplomacy is an effort undertaken by a country in an effort

through cultural expression including utilization of ideological, technological,

political, economic, military, educational, socio-cultural and other fields that attract

and enjoyed by foreign audiences.54

Actors in cultural diplomacy are varies, although it is the government that

leads the initiative, cultural diplomacy not only done by government agencies and

private sector which is officially under the coordination of the Department of Foreign

Affairs, it can also be conducted by other government agencies, private institutions,

and even by individuals such as scholars, art performer, chef, academics, students,

etc.55 Cultural diplomacy can overcome differences in policy between countries and

another and form a neutral platform for interpersonal relations. When diplomatic

51 Cummings, M. C. (2003). Cultural diplomacy and the United States government: A survey.

Washington: Center for arts and culture. 52 Pajtinka, E. (2014). Cultural Diplomacy in Theory and Practice in Contemporary International

Relations. POLITICKÉ VEDY. Retrieved from

http://www.politickevedy.fpvmv.umb.sk/userfiles/file/4_2014/PAJTINKA2.pdf 53 Rosendorf, N. M. (2009). Chapter Nine A cultural public diplomacy strategy. In Toward a new

public diplomacy: Redirecting U.S. foreign policy (p. 173). New York, NY: Palgrave MacMillan. 54 Mark, S. (2014). A Greater Role for Cultural Diplomacy. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy.

Retrieved from Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’

55 Ibid.,

15

relations are being disrupted, then cultural diplomacy acts as a flexible and acceptable

means to all parties.56

I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy

Basically, gastrodiplomacy is a form of public diplomacy that combines

cultural diplomacy, culinary, and nation branding. It is one of nation’s effort to

communicate with the foreign public by offering culinary heritage and tradition. This

activity is sponsored by the state government through campaigns and activities

abroad that work together with non-state actors such as government agency, private

stakeholders, individuals and societies like chef or diaspora. The terminology of

gastrodiplomacy is a new phenomenon that is developing in the field of International

Relations. This term is expressed from The Economist magazine in 2002 and

popularized by Paul Rockower, a gastronomist graduated from Southern California

University and a leading expert in the burgeoning public diplomacy field of

gastrodiplomacy.57

Gastrodiplomacy on restriction is the use of food in international relations to

create peace and cultural understanding. 58 Rockower believe that gastrodiplomacy is

“the act of winning hearts and minds through stomach indirect emotional

connection”59 On the other hand, Samuel Chapple Sokol believes that the use of

cuisine as an instrument for creating cross-cultural understanding aims to enhance

56 Arndt, R. T. (2011). The First Resort of Kings: American Cultural Diplomacy in the Twentieth

Century. Herndon: Potomac Books.

57 Paul Rockower | USC Center on Public Diplomacy. (n.d.). Retrieved from

https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/users/paul_rockower 58 Bradley, C. (2014). Gastrodiplomacy: Eating for Understanding – Food Politics Field Notes.

Retrieved from http://foodfieldnotes.uoregon.edu/article/gastrodiplomacy-eating-for-understanding/ 59 Rockower, P. S. (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues and

Studies, 43(1), 107-152.

16

interaction and cooperation. Not only interaction between government to government

at the high level but also government to public.60

In practice, gastrodiplomacy done by sharing cultures between countries

through food. Gastrodiplomacy offers the opportunity to engage in the culture of a

country through food to the foreign public from long distance. As Rockower wrote on

the journal Recipes for Gastrodiplomacy that “Gastrodiplomacy helps familiarize the

foreign public especially for certain publics who are more reluctant to travel”.61

Through gastrodiplomacy foreign public can learn new cultures from the other side of

the world through culinary experiences.

Gastrodiplomacy is considered a popular strategy for public diplomacy and

nation branding. 62 Gastrodiplomacy is about how a country conducts cultural

diplomacy by promoting the distinctive cuisine, so as to raise public awareness of the

nation-brand of a country, as well as assisting foreign public.

Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that determine whether the process

belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of the gastrodiplomacy according to

Rokcower's view is as follows:63

a. Communicate about culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way,

more than high-level elites.

b. Enhance the nation brand through cultural diplomacy by creating awareness

and understanding of foreign public towards national culinary culture

c. Transcends the realm of state-to-public communication and increasingly

includes people-to-people engagement,

60 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. 61 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3),

235-246.

62 Ibid., 63 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.

17

Thailand Kitchen of the World seeks to improve the national image by using

food as a tool to change public perception and promote itself on the global stage.

While there are many ways for a nation to define and visualize its identity, food is

one of the most obvious instruments in reinforcing a country's identity. The

government uses food as part of a strategy of broader cultural diplomacy. This

strategy seeks to export its ethnic food and ingredients and culture to a wider world in

the form of national cuisine.64

In this research, the writer will use research framework as;

Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer

64 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand,

and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20.

18

Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer

In analyzing how the gastrodiplomacy efforts conducted by the Thai government

in introducing Thai food as part of its country identity is an instrument of soft power

owned by Thailand. Then, writer will use the concept of public diplomacy which,

according to Jay Wang as a form of government communication of a state by

involving non-state actors to foreign communities in order to invite foreign

communities to be attracted to the culture of a country.65 Thailand as a middle-power

country, the Thai government is keenly aware of winning the hearts and minds of the

65 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41-

49.

19

public by exploiting its cultural wealth. The use of food as an instrument of cultural

diplomacy is believed to enhance the intercultural communication of people in the

world. The relationship between public diplomacy and cultural diplomacy is linked in

the concept of soft power. In particular, the significance of public diplomacy since

soft power grows out of culture, domestic values and policies as well as foreign

policy.66 It is critical to be aware of how soft power can be used as a means of public

diplomacy. Furthermore, the concept of cultural diplomacy itself has become a

linchpin of public diplomacy.67 Based on the use of national cuisine as a means of

communication to foreign public in Thai government policy the writer uses the

concept of Gastrodiplomacy. Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that

determine whether the process belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of

the gastrodiplomacy according to Rokcower's view is as follows:68

a. gastrodiplomacy is a public diplomacy effort that tries to communicate about

culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way, more than high-level

elites.

b. The practice of gastrodiplomacy seeks to enhance the nation brand through

cultural diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public

towards national culinary culture

c. Gastrodiplomacy as public diplomacy in the globalization era beyond state-to-

public relations and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement

In summary, if sorted backward from Gastrodiplomacy concept, in the journal of

Riski Baskoro believed that this concept is part of cultural diplomacy, as cultural

66 Kim, H. (2017). Bridging the Theoretical Gap between Public Diplomacy and Cultural

Diplomacy. The Korean Journal of International Studies, 15(1). 67 Cultural Diplomacy the Linchpin of Public Diplomacy. (2005). Retrieved from Report of the

Advisory Committeeon Cultural Diplomacy website:

https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 68 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.

20

diplomacy is considered as a sub of public diplomacy. 69 Then the three concepts

connected to the soft power of a nation. By using these concepts, the authors will see

the activities that have been carried out by the Thai government and non-state actors

in the implementation of gastrodiplomacy efforts in introducing Thai cuisine to the

world as seen from the years 2011 to 2014 under the leadership of Prime Minister

Yingluck Shinawatra.

I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study

The scope and limitation of this research will be based on the use of food in

the form of public diplomacy efforts conducted by Royal Thai government through

the gastrodiplomacy strategy “Kitchen to the World” in promoting the cuisine culture

in the global stage. Therefore, in order to topics that will be analyze can be more

specific need to explain some limitations that will show the significance of the

problem.

This research will explore what forms of gastrodiplomacy activities have been

done by the Thai government. The writer takes restrictions from 2011 to 2014, this

limitation is taken based on the inauguration of Kitchen to the World policy under

Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra in 2011 as a continuation of Thailand's

gastrodiplomacy program which began in 2002 as an effort in disseminating Thai

cuisine through the establishment of restaurants abroad and maintain the authenticity

of cuisine that served all over the world, especially the United States. Furthermore,

the study will explore the gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken by Thai governments

abroad in cooperation with non-state actors through the marketing of food products,

the organization of events, cooking school and education, etc. These limits will help

explain how was the implementation of Kitchen to the World as the gastrodiplomacy

program to promote Thai cuisine in the United States on the period of 2011 – 2014.

69 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer

dalam Hubungan Internasional. Jurnal INSIGNA, 4, 35-48. Retrieved from

http://jos.unsoed.ac.id/index.php/insignia/article/download/666/496/

21

I.8 Research Methodology

In this analysis, the writer used qualitative methodology. Defensively, Bodgan

and Taylor explain that qualitative methodology is a methodological form that has

descriptive data output based on written or oral words of the observed object.

Besides, Kirk and Miller also explained that qualitative research is a form of research

that depends on human observation which will be termed its own terminology.

The research method used by writer in getting and describing data that is

using descriptive research method. The existing data collected from the literature and

articles that exist in journals and other scientific publications, both in print and

electronic form such as e-books and websites that serve as the main source in looking

at the issues raised. The author will also conduct online interviews with stakeholders

such as government offices on issues raised to obtain additional data. In other words,

qualitative methodology is a methodology that can be applied in a descriptive output

in a scientific study.

Later that will be seen here is a form of gastrodiplomacy strategy

implemented by the Thai government in globalize the Thai Cuisine to change the

perception of the world. Then the form of strategy that has been applied will be

analyzed using a public diplomacy approach, where this approach sees that

gastrodiplomacy is one form of public diplomacy.

I.9 Research Instrument

I.9.1 Book

The writer uses several books to further understand in detail the theoretical

framework in terms of soft power, public diplomacy, cultural diplomacy. Moreover,

the writer also uses a book that discusses the development of Thai cuisine in the US.

22

I.9.2 Academic Journal and Article

Gastrodiplomacy studies still relatively new in international relations, there are not

many books on gastrodiplomacy. However, the writer found several academic

journals related to gastrodiplomacy study that can be used as a guide in conducting

research. Those academic journals help the writer gain more understanding and

different idea opinion to see gastrodiplomacy from wider side.

I.9.3 Media Online

Advances in technology has been able to answer the various needs of today's

society. Online media such as the Internet as one of the most useful medium for

writers in the search for various information, ranging from theoretical information,

primary data or secondary data for research needs. Internet provide information from

many official website, document and reports. Some resources that used for this

research are;

a) The Thai Government Public Relations Department

http://thailand.prd.go.th

b) Thailand Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen of the World E-book

http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

c) Royal Thai Embassy official website

http://thaiembdc.org/

d) The Department of International Trade Promotion and Thai Select

http://www.thaiselect.com

23

I.10 Structure of Thesis

CHAPTER I Chapter I is the introductory chapter that will discuss the

background of study, identification of the problem, statement of

the problem, determine the research objectives, significance of

study and describe the theoretical framework that used in this

writing.

CHAPTER II Chapter will contain literature review of the main sources that

will help the writer on doing the research. A summary of books,

journals, articles related to the topic of this thesis will be

reviewed in this chapter. The writer will use sources related to

public diplomacy, gastrodiplomacy program and Thailand

tourism to support the writer on finishing the research.

CHAPTER III Chapter III contains an overview of the gastrodiplomacy

program that implement by Thailand government through

Kitchen to the World program that contains a brief description

and information about the profile of Kitchen of the World.

Moreover, this chapter also contains the history between

Thailand and US bilateral relations and brief explanation about

how Thai cuisine can be accepted by American citizens.

CHAPTER IV This chapter will explain the writer's analysis in view of

Thailand's public diplomacy efforts to globalize Thai Cuisine

that has persisted until 2014. This chapter will also include data

and findings that have been researched to see the efforts that

have been made by the Thai government.

CHAPTER V Chapter V will contain the conclusions of the study and end with

a recommendation from the writer.

24

CHAPTER II

LITERATURE REVIEW

In conducting this research, the writer has tried to find some reliable references as the

guidance and comparison in view of existing problems. The writer will review the

sources such as books, journals, academic articles, publications, reports that the writer

uses according to the topic of research. The writer will summarize and review things

which is important for the writer to be the source of this research. Some of these

references include:

II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World

Politics”, Public Affairs

Joseph S. Nye Jr. is a former US political scientist, professor and former dean

of the Kennedy School of Government, Harvard University.70 The concept of soft

power began popularized by Nye since 1980, but in his book Soft Power: The Means

to Success in Worlds Politics (2004), Nye began to explore in detail and redefine his

soft power concept. Through this book Nye defines soft power as the ability attract or

co-opting the other nations to share its objectives or desired outcomes. Nye also

stressed that soft power is more using Attraction than Coercion and Payment. Soft

Power's definition according to Nye is:

“Soft power is the ability to get what you want through attraction rather than

coercion or payments. It arises from the attractiveness of a country’s culture,

political ideals and policies” 71

70 Joseph Nye | Harvard Kennedy School. (n.d.). Retrieved from

https://www.hks.harvard.edu/faculty/joseph-nye 71 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.

25

In his book, Nye argues that soft power depends on the ability of the state to

organize the political agenda in a way that can be preference for other countries. One

way to give preference to other countries is through attractive cultural attractions,

ideologies and institutions. Unlike the Hard Power (military force or economic

power) used to "coercion" other nations to change their views or opinions, Nye says

that the soft power of a country exists primarily in three sources: Culture, Political

Values, and Foreign Policy.

As stated by Nye, the thing that makes a nation fulfilling its national interest

is how to make others admire its values, the things that exist within the country that

inspire other countries. This admiration comes from an interest generated by a state

without coercion so that soft power is not just persuasion or the ability to move

people with arguments, but to make others fulfill what we want without being asked,

including the ability to attract, and attraction often leads to acquiescence.72

From this book the writer helped in understanding the concept of soft power

and explained that to achieve the goal is not merely using coercion or hard power and

how to build the potential of soft power to hold power. The culture that Nye says is

one of sources of soft power, gives understanding to the writer and justifies the topic

of research where culture is being used as an instrument of state diplomacy.

According to Joseph S. Nye that culture allows a country to convey more

value and message to become a preference for other countries, then through Kitchen

of the World which makes Thai cuisine which is one of the pride of Thai people,

giving Thailand a chance to deliver hospitality and friendly messages. Government

efforts to ensure that Thai restaurants around the world must have distinctive Thai

interiors and use raw materials from Thailand to make its cultural information center

abroad, to convey Thailand's message about the beauty and natural wealth of the

country as well as the importance of the environment there. The hospitality that

72 Ibid.,

26

Thailand has can also convey the Thai message of friendship to be in order to support

Thai cooperation with other countries.

II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing

(2002), Public Diplomacy

Mark Leonard is a British political scientist and foreign policy adviser,

stresses that public diplomacy is not just about delivering one-way messages or

propaganda. On his book, Leonard define public diplomacy that is about building

relationships: understanding the needs of other countries, cultures and peoples;

communicating our points of view; correcting misperceptions; looking for areas

where we can find common cause.73

With the existence of public diplomacy activities, it is expected to generate

good relations and environment for the people of the State, to work together and

improve cooperation between them. Mark believes that public diplomacy aims to

foster positive public opinion in other countries through the interaction of

government and interest groups. Therefore, public diplomacy requires intercultural

communication skills as they relate to changing people's attitudes, mutual

understanding in looking at foreign policy issues.

Figure 2.1: Mark Leonard’s circle of public diplomacy

73 Leonard, M., Stead, C., & Smewing, C. (2002). Public diplomacy. London: Foreign Policy Centre.

IssueImag

e

27

Mark mentioned that there are at least some goals that can be achieved with the

existence of public diplomacy74

1. Increasing the familiarity of foreign public with the state makes them think

about this country, forming a good perspective with a positive image and and

eliminating unwanted opinions

2. Enhance the appreciation of the foreign public with the state and making them

look at a global issue with the same point of view

3. Engaging foreign public in collaboration with the state (strengthening the ties

of educational reform into scientific cooperation, convincing people in foreign

country to visit a country as a tourism destination, to be a consumer of local

products and to expand export destinations, getting foreign public to

understand and embrace the value of the state which held public diplomacy.

4. Influence people in other countries to invest and become partners in political

relations.

Seeing Mark's public diplomacy purpose, then it can be seen that public

diplomacy requires two-way communication to create good communication so that

the value and message given can be received without any misunderstanding. It also

shows that public diplomacy is different from propaganda. Propaganda is often

considered to have the same understanding with public diplomacy because

propaganda also serves to influence others to have the same thoughts we want. In

public diplomacy it is emphasized that in the process and cannot be coercive.

In the implementation, Mark divides public diplomacy into two: Competitive

and Co-operative public diplomacy. 75 Co-operative public diplomacy is a form of

public diplomacy that is aimed broadly without a specific target country. Usually this

kind of public diplomacy aims to promote democracy, human rights and law. In

spreading these values, a state cooperates with other countries or organizations both

74 Ibid., P:9 75 Ibid., P: 22

28

government and non-government in order to avoid paradox in the delivery of

values. While Competitive public diplomacy done with the target country that made a

priority in the implementation of public diplomacy. Thus, public diplomacy is done

more with emphasis in bilateral relations in certain areas, such as political influence,

military cooperation, trade, investment, tourism, policy exchanges and coalitions in

international organization.

From Mark's writing it is clear that public diplomacy is a planned effort by the

government to shape positive perceptions among other countries through information

dissemination, information extension and other forms of activity that directly touch

the activities of non-governmental actors. the establishment of public diplomacy

activities by involving the domestic public is caused by the assumption that public

diplomacy is a public product in shaping the image and reputation to create an

enabling environment for the realization of a country's interests together with

individual transactions.

II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of

Culture”

This writing is a chapter in the. book titled International Cultural Policies and

Power edited by J Singh. 76 It explained the studies of government-sponsored cultural

programming and state promotion of heritage and regulation of artistic expression

which demonstrate the joining of culture with power, where cultural beliefs and

values explain about why and to what extend human nature demands governing and

what counts as private as opposed to public and legitimately governable. The writer

believe that culture is political as well, but it just not better recognize and explored.

This study gives an understanding about culture as political by adopt more

sophisticated and nuanced notion of culture. In this chapter also describes that culture

76 Rosestein, C. (2010). Cultural Policy and the Political Nature of Culture. In International Cultural

Policies and Power.

29

is taken for granted in contexts and negotiation, and sometimes it makes culture loses

its transparency that is why culture has come to prominence during critical shifts in

globalization.

The policies making sometimes give an impact to the distribution of cultural

resources, the policy maker shape the way to make people can access where the

culture are created and also provide opportunities for people to develop their

capabilities to comment with their own experiences. Policy also impacts culture

through regulation of the public sphere in its material as opposed to its virtual

manifestations.

This writing explain about the cultural policies in some countries which

explained by the expert, so this study in this chapter gives a image and understanding

about how a policy conducted by the government towards host country can influence

to the culture and value.

II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue:

Gastrodiplomacy

Public Diplomacy Magazine is a publication of the Association of Public

Diplomacy Scholar (APDS) at the University of Southern California. In this

edition, Public Diplomacy Magazine rise an emerging theme on Gastrodiplomacy and

discuss the development of its role in public diplomacy. 77 This edition creates a

theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various

contexts.

This book summarizes the journals and explores gastrodiplomacy from

historical explanations the use of food in international relations, the definition of

gastrodiplomacy according to experts, the perspective of scholars obtained from the

results of research and interviews about the practice of gastrodiplomacy. According

to Paul Rockower, Gastrodiplomacy is the way a country conducts its public

77 Association of Public Diplomacy Scholar (APDS), University of Southern California, (Winter

2014), Gastrodiplomacy, Public Diplomacy Magazine, (issue 11).

30

diplomacy to communicate the culture of country cuisine to foreign public and it can

be a dynamic new tactic in the practice of public and culture diplomacy to raise

foreign public awareness and understanding. 78 The book also presents analytical

results, interviews with gastrodiplomacy experts and also presents case studies in

some countries that have practiced gastrodiplomacy. Therefore, the book creates a

theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various

contexts.

This book explains the concept of Gastrodiplomacy that Paul Rockower

reveals by explaining that gastrodiplomacy has a difference scope with culinary and

food diplomacy. The practice is used as the main instrument to raise awareness and

understanding of national culture through its culinary abroad to foreign public. While

food diplomacy which involves the use of food aid and food relief in a crisis, it is not

a holistic use of cuisine as an avenue to communicate culture through public

diplomacy. 79 According to Rockower, gastrodiplomacy create a non-verbal

communication for different audiences,

The book also explains the relations of a country's cuisine and its national

image from the research of Braden Ruddy. He indicated that the promotion of food

has the potential to change public perception of national image and become the

gateway of cultural exports of other countries such as art, sport and most significantly

increase tourism benefits the country.80 In another journal, this book also explains the

perspective of Osipova about how the position of gastrodiplomacy in the seizure of

food or so-called here with Gastronationalism which raged between the border of

Armenia and Azerbaijan. This paper gives a new view that gastrodiplomacy cannot

always play a major role.81

78 Ibid., P: 14 79 Rockower, P. (2014) The State of Gastrodiplomacy. on Public Diplomacy magazine, p: 12.

80 Hearts, Minds, and Stomachs: Gastrodiplomacy and the Potential of National Cuisine in Changing

Public Perception of National Image by Braden Rudy p: 27-30 81 Osipova, Y. (2014). From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of

the Dolma in the South Caucasus. In Public Diplomacy Magazine. P: 16-20

31

However, not all forms of promotion of food products overseas means

gastrodiplomacy. In contrast, gastrodiplomacy is a more effective approach to

increase national awareness of a country through the promotion of culinary and

cultural heritage. This book is suitable to be the source to understand in advance

about the portion of gastrodiplomacy from wide perspective. This book can be used

as a comparison of research because it explains gastrodiplomacy in detail about the

definition of explanation from various analytical perspectives, as well as various case

studies that enrich the writer’s knowledge to begin this research.

II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts

and Minds”82

Chapple-Sokol claims that all things related to food in the study of

international relations is called culinary diplomacy, although he tries to divide into

two domains, namely private culinary diplomacy and public culinary diplomacy

which the difference is the target audience. Private culinary diplomacy is the

diplomacy done at the government level, while public culinary diplomacy has a close

definition to gastrodiplomacy, the use of food as a tool of public diplomacy aimed at

introducing and promoting the cuisine of a country to the public of other countries

widely. Sam Chapple Sokol define gastrodiplomacy as “The use of food and cuisine

as an instrument to create a cross-cultural understanding in the hopes of improving

interactions and cooperation”.

In his writing, Sokol explains that the nation branding effort is government

efforts to promote a country's good reputation and this is highly dependent on

marketing efforts and nationalism owned by citizens who do gastrodiplomacy itself.

Sokol sees the concept of nation branding as a government effort to engage in

gastrodiplomacy strategies by promoting the cuisine globally to get recognition by

82 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183.

32

other countries. He stressed that if this process occurs when a tourist tastes the

cuisine, then he will be able to recognize where it came from. Chapple Sokol also

mentioned that the food philosophy and how to cook the food can be a

gastrodiplomacy strategy that the image of a country can be recognized by

performing a holistic way as an effort to build the culinary image of the country.

Chapple Sokol emphasizes that gastrodiplomacy can work well when a

foreigner eats an ethnic cuisine, so the person is able to recognize where the cuisine

came from. it can also be introduced through the philosophy, the way of cooking and

also the typical ingredients of a country where it can be a tactic that can be included

in the gastrodiplomacy part that the introduction of a country can be done holistically

from the way cooking, materials and philosophy that can be exported to other

countries as an effort to introduce the image of a country.

The Royal Thai government has undertaken a strategy to build a nation brand

by promoting Thai cuisine on the international stage through the efforts of public

diplomacy, cultural diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy. Public diplomacy provides an

opportunity to increase influence and shape an international agenda that can have

enormous impacts with limited resources.

II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and

Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign83

This journal describes how a gastrodiplomacy campaign can be implemented

with strategic communication planning. This journal is the result of Zhang's research

by comparing gastrodiplomacy campaigns conducted by several countries such as

Japan, Malaysia, Peru, Taiwan, South Korea and Thailand. This analysis describes

the results that a campaign can be seen from healthiness, diversity, exoticism,

83 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary

Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 9, 568-591. Retrieved from

http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/viewFile/2847/1316

33

naturalness, nationalism, and naturalness. This journal reveals that the

gastrodiplomacy campaign characterized by communication that combines product

marketing, advertising, public relations and public affairs, the use of opinion leaders

strategy, make a good relations with media and building coalitions with other

countries is also another strategy to look for synergistic effects.

Food and drink are often described as a means of communication between

nations as both are able to represent the value and cultural identity of a nation and

create a relationship between brand and consumer behavior. In his writing, Juyan

Zhang quotes Kotler and Gertner (2002) who argue that the image of a country can

affect a positive reputation for a country like the "Café de Colombia" campaign in

which the country is made a brand of coffee. His influence succeeds in convincing

many US consumers that Café de Colombia its a quality coffee. In addition,

Nuttavuthisist (2006) cited by Juyan Zhang observed that the diplomatic

gastrodiplomacy policy is an attempt to improve the negative image of Thailand as a

destination for sex tourism and try to position itself as a kitchen to the world by

promoting good quality Thai food and cuisine.

II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the

Making of Thai America”

Mark Padoongpatt is a second-generation Thai American born and raised in Los

Angeles, He is Assistant Professor of Asian and Asian American Studies at the

University of Nevada, Las Vegas.

In general, the book explores how Thai food has shaped the Thai-American

community and identity since World War II and became popular in America and

globally. Mark Padoongpatt explores the historical roots of the relationship between

Thai food, politics, empire, race, immigration, politics and the formation of Thai

communities in America especially Los Angeles. The history of the US intervention

in post-cold war in Southeast Asia brought Thai cuisine into America in the early

1960s, Mark Padoongpatt traces how a US citizen in Thailand exposes the uniqueness

34

of Thai cuisine for the first time and introduces it to the United States. When Thai

immigrants arrived in Los Angeles, they repackaged Thai cuisine to increase its

popularity.

According to him, the practice of food as an inherent political act is very

important, because it shows to people that food is a daily necessity, providing an

understanding of their relationship with the world around them. Padoongpatt believes

that Thai food is one of the best ways to provide the transnational experience of

Americans and Thai-Americans while understanding the informal empire of US in the

post-World War II era has transformed foodways into a critical site of racial and

ethnic identity formation.84

Padoongpatt shows on his book how the origins of Thai culinary and cuisine

in Los Angeles did not emerge from the arrival of Thai immigrants to the US, but

from US intervention in Thailand and the first spike of Thai international tourism

during the Vietnam War. Then he also traces Thai immigrants especially in Los

Angeles who open Thai restaurants to support the economic growth and obstacles

they face when it is difficult to get ingredients for Thai cuisine. The subsequent

migration and settlement in LA encouraged the explosion of Thai restaurants in the

1970s and 1980s. His latest analysis Padoongpatt explains the Thai government's

policy of seeing the potential popularity of Thai cuisine amidst US society taking

advantage of the multicultural politics initiatives that have emerged by making Thai

cuisine as the focus of Thai political activity.

This book answers the author's question about the origins of Thai food in the United

States and what makes it so popular today. Through this book the author gets a

picture of the historical relationship between food and identity.

84 Press Conference Mark Padoongpatt, “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America”

(U of California Press, 2017). (2018, February 13). Retrieved from http://newbooksnetwork.com/mark-

padoongpatt-flavors-of-empire-food-and-the-making-of-thai-america-u-of-california-press-2017/

35

CHAPTER III

THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH

KITCHEN TO THE WORLD

Thailand is a country that is blessed by rich agricultural and food culture

heritage. The uniqueness also can be found on the authentic cuisine as part of the

country’s culture, which has become the pride of Thailand as a country, as well as its

people.85 Thailand cuisine, which is identic with the balance combination of sweet,

sour, spicy, and salty, has the ability to spoil and gives satisfaction to those who tastes

it. Thailand cuisine also supported by the diverse agriculture and natural resources

exist within the country that being used to develop the cuisine itself.86

Aware of the potential of the country’s authentic cuisine, the government

continuously conducted efforts in promoting the country’s cuisine to the world,

through the practice of gastrodiplomacy. The practice of gastrodiplomacy aims to

promote Thai cuisine all over the world, as the cuisine itself is believed to be able to

represent the country in global level through its unique taste that strongly represent

Thailand’s characteristic. 87 Thailand’s government first initiative to conduct

gastrodiplomacy was done in PM Thaksin administration, with a program called

“Global Thai” the government aims to boost the number of Thai restaurant abroad.88

85 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

86 Ibid., 87 Timothy, D. J., & Ron, A. S. (2013). Understanding heritage cuisines and tourism: identity, image,

authenticity, and change. Journal of Heritage Tourism, 8(2-3), 99-104.

doi:10.1080/1743873x.2013.767818 88 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from

https://www.economist.com/node/999687

36

The changing of administration in the country did not stop the conduct of

gastrodiplomacy, which can be seen through the continuation of gastrodiplomacy

through various programs called “Kitchen of the World” in 2002 until the ongoing

“Kitchen to the World” program under PM Yingluck Shinawatra that has been

implemented from the year of 2011.89

III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine

Most of the Asian cuisine evolved from the high palace, the royal members

have encouraged the revolution of authentic and fancy Thai cuisine.90 Like many of

the world's leading cuisines, the cuisine culture of Thailand also boasts of its ancient

history. Thai cuisine is a product of the transnational interactions for centuries, it is a

great balanced combination influenced by Eastern and Western. 91 Throughout the

history of Thailand, varied influences have added some other ingredients into Thai

cuisine which created a unique flavor of food.

III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine

The history of Thai food dates back between the 6th to 13th centuries

when Tiê-Chiu individuals originally migrated from southwest China or today known

as Yunnan. 92 Most Thai food is an adaptation of Chinese cuisine introduced to

Thailand by an ancient Chinese tribe named Tai Lü who are currently known as Laos

and live in the northern regions of Thailand, Vietnam, and Myanmar. Chinese

immigrants inherited a reach variety of ingredients and food source, they raised and

farmed like cows, chickens, ducks, pigs, vegetables and fruits. Many natural spices

are mixed in Thai cuisine such as fish sauce, ginger, garlic, onion, cilantro,

89 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck

Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 90 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press 91 Ibid 92 Thai Foodie. (2013). History of Thai Food. Retrieved from http://whatisthaifood.com/history-of-

thai-food/

37

lemongrass, shrimp paste and tamarind. Chinese people also introduced how to make

noodles, but since Thailand is a rice-producing country, Thai people start making rice

noodles. The Thai cuisine originally came from China such as rad na, khao kha moo

and khao mun gai using fresh herbs and spices.

In the Sukhothai Kingdom era around 1238-1448, people learned the food

preservation.93 They began to preserve excess foods such as fish, meat, vegetables

were dried, fermented and salted for consumption when needed. In the rise of

Ayutthaya Kingdom, the Silk Road helped connect Asia to the European countries.94

Arab, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Persians, European countries and closed neighbors

to exchanged goods and services.

In the 13th century, foreign trade brought even greater influence on Thai

cuisine. Unlike most other ancient cultures, Thailand did not close themselves of the

borders. Thailand was very receptive to change, increasing trade with other countries

that brought in foreign ideas in cooking style, spices, ingredients and cooking

utensils.95 The location of Thailand, formerly called Siam, on ancient East-West trade

crossroads and various shipping routes carried the heavily influenced by Persian and

Arab culture on religion, culture and cuisine. In the 15th century, Buddhist monks

who introduced curry from India and Khmer cooks teached Royal Thai cooks to make

Indian food to Ayutthaya cooks with turmeric, chili, coriander, cumin and other

Indian spices. India's strong influence on Thai cuisine is on yellow curry and

Massaman curry.96

During the reign of Ayutthaya, the authorities allow foreigners flocked and

stayed in Siam. The western influence in Thailand began in the early of 16th century

93 Higham, C., & Thosarat, R. (1998). Prehistoric Thailand: From early settlement to Sukhothai.

London: Thames and Hudson. 94 Ibid., 95 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.

Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf

96 Ibid.,

38

with the arrival of the Portuguese, then entered the British, Dutch, French and

Spanish expansionists. 97 Thai cuisine is also known for its spicy blend between

sweetness and red chilies introduced by Portuguese missionaries. Though not all Thai

dishes use chili, this is the most influential Thai cuisine introduction that global

people know today. While other Western countries in 17th century brought some other

important ingredients such as saffron, cumin and turmeric precisely during the fall of

spice trade.98

In every foreign influence, at the same time, it has kept its cuisine arts

distinctive. The Thai people added a pinch of their own originality by using local

ingredients such as galangal (Thai ginger), lemongrass and Thai holy basil which

gives a special flavor to any Thai cuisine. Now all the transformations and good

improvements of the culinary culture over the years have resulted in what is today

regarded as one of the best cuisines in the world. Thai cuisine has never been brought

out of the border before, in 1960s at the beginning of the explosion of Thailand's

tourism industry, foreign people come in large numbers and expose the richness of

Thai culture.99 At the moment, foreign tourist exposed Thai cuisine that offers a taste

symphony for the first time.

The beginning of the globalization of Thai food began with US intervention in

Southeast Asia on the post-World War II.100 The American considered themselves as

members of a global community that tried to build good relationships through cultural

exchange and understanding.101 The US made a global expansion to build political,

economic, social and cultural relationships to influence the daily life of other

countries. To this day, Thailand is proud to be a distinctive country in Southeast Asia,

97 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.

Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 98 L Punyaratabandhu, L. (2017). Bangkok: Stories and recipes from the heart of Thailand. 99 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press.

100 Ibid., 101 Ibid.,

39

the only country that avoids Western colonization. 102 As the new global leader,

Thailand became a major potential base for the US to combat US’ global free-market

capitalist aspirations at that time. The US has made a great deal of effort through

cultural exchange, economic and military aid solely to win the hearts of Thai

society.103

III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine

The Vietnam War era is the significant period in the close relations history

between Thailand and United States. Both of countries fought together the

Communism threats that spread in Southeast Asia.104 For Thailand, the US provided

protection from the communist external threats that were heating up in neighboring

countries, while for the US, Thailand was a stronghold of anti-communism and

became the US prime base during the Vietnam war. Thai and US interactions

increased when American soldiers came for vacation during Vietnam War and

became the Rest and Recuperation (R & R) for US soldiers in Bangkok. The

Americans were accustomed to products such as Coca-Cola or other fast-food

products, at this level enabling many Americans to have new experiences when

discover exotic Thai cuisine for the first time.105 When Americans eat Thai cuisine,

they also eat relations of power, devouring the representation of Thai culture

richness.106

US military operations overseas always lead to numbers of US immigration.

The American soldiers formed relationship with Thai women, whether it be for

102 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.

Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 103 The United States and Thailand, Alliance Dynamics, 1950-1985 by R. Sean Randolph. Institute of

East Asian Studies University of California, Berkeley.

http://digitalassets.lib.berkeley.edu/ieas/IEAS_12_0002.pdf 104 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 105 Ibid., 106 Ibid.,

40

friendship, sex but also many of them ended in cross-cultural marriage.107 The Thai

immigration began with a group of wives of the American soldiers to Los Angeles

and brought their food practices with them.108 At that time, Thai immigrants cook to

meet their daily needs. Then they started building small Thai restaurants to meet the

needs of other Thai immigrants and bring them closer to home, also wives cooking

Thai cuisine as a way to make money.109

But since the 1965 Amendment to the US Immigration and Nationality Act,

immigration from Asia especially Thailand increased tripled.110 The 70s to the 80s is

when the Thai culinary culture really flourish in the US, precisely Los Angeles. The

interaction between Thai food, identity and community is getting stronger in the US.

Thai cuisine was attracted American as a healthy, non-fattening diet and very tasty at

the same time. Thai food appears a powerful medium to spread knowledge about

Thailand country, the people and Thai culture in the US.

The art of Thai cuisine that shows multiculturalism benefits the Thai people in

Los Angeles. The exoticism in the cuisine gives a positive presentation. Ethnic

restaurants are the only means for Americans to interact significantly with the

cultures of other countries. The culinary industry in US is profitable because the

people are very enthusiastic about the growth of culture and try new foods, especially

if the food can give a deep impression.111 As time goes by Thai cuisine became more

popular and Thai restaurants began to grow. Thai food has become one of America’s

107 Yoo, D., & Azuma, E. (2016). The Oxford handbook of Asian American history. New York, NY:

Oxford University Press. 108 Ibid.,

109 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 110 Chia, J. (2017, October). True 'Larb', The Food Delights US. Retrieved from

https://www.pressreader.com/thailand/bangkok-post/20171015/281505046446020 111 Ray, K. (2016). The Ethnic Restaurateur. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of

Bloomsbury Publishing, Plc.

41

fastest growing cuisines along with the Indian, Vietnam. Driven by a wave of

immigrants and the more daring tastes of young diners.

In the early 1990s there were over 200 Thai restaurants just located in Los

Angeles.112 During that time the Thai government has always kept an eye on the

growing popularity of Thai food sales in US. In the early 2000s the marketing of Thai

food sales began to echoed globally as Thailand's economic and political strategy

through campaigning.113 Los Angeles was the first trial location to authenticate the

people interest towards Thai cuisine, the response from LA people at Thai restaurant

and food festivals might have provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai

government that Thai cuisine has the potential for success worldwide.114

According to Mr. Goanpot Asvinchit Thailand’s deputy commerce minister

told to the Wall Street Journal, Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America, but

it's already distorted and not traditional anymore.115 To improve the distortions and

meet the demands of Americans, the government will launch a food approach through

the spread of Thai restaurants in America and send dozens of trained Thai chefs

abroad, help launch a culinary training center, form a large network of food and

tableware suppliers, and hold many cooking and food fairs around the world. 116

Finally, the Royal Thai government took steps to formalize the policies of Global

Thai in 2002 to introduce people in the US to authentic Thai cuisine and improve its

quality. In the implementation of the policy, the government began to promote the

procurement, production and consumption of authentic Thai food to provide a deeper

understanding of the Thai people philosophy. According to the Royal Thai Consul

General in LA, Thai cuisine is increasingly popular and spread to California as well

112 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.

Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf. 113 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 114 Ibid., 115 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to

Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865

116 Ibid.,

42

as western states. In 2003, restaurants spread throughout the world of 6,873,

including 49% in the US and Canada, 20% in Europe, 15% in Australia and New

Zealand, 14% in Asia and 2% in other countries.117

III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck

Administration 2011-2014

Thai restaurants are spreading all over the world today, this globalization of

Thai cuisine in recent decades has also been initiated by the government's role.

Policies on preserving ancient cultures including a country's culinary culture and

promoting them abroad are essential part of economic and political development. The

food industry is one of Thailand's main sectors driving the nation's economic growth.

In 2002 the Thai government formally adopted Gastrodiplomacy which can be seen

through The Economist article with the launching of “Global Thai” program in 2002

and “Kitchen of the World” initiative as the development of the initial program.118

The aim is to promote Thai culture to the foreign community and is expected to

stimulate the growth of tourism and enhance diplomatic relations with other nations.

Continuing the previous government policy of Global Thai, stated in Policy

Statement under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra, a program called “Thai

Kitchen to the World” is released to promote Thai food culture and Thai food

products all over the globe. In addition to introducing Thai culture, this project aims

to significantly and sustainably increase food safety awareness under changing world

condition and produces high quality food that complies with international standards at

competitive prices. 119 As the main target of this policy, the government plans to

117 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian

Studies Conference, York University, Toronto. 118 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from

https://www.economist.com/node/999687 119 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the

World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

43

increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas which will boost the annual export

of the Thai food industry as stated in the policy statement 2011:120

Support Thai investment overseas in areas where Thai entrepreneurs have

potential opening of branches abroad and fostering relationships with foreign

agents and partners in order to establish strong Thai business networks

overseas; promote and support setting up of Thai restaurants by Thai

nationals abroad, in line with the ‘Thai Kitchen to the World’ and ‘Thailand:

Kitchen of the World’ policies.121

During the working visit to the United States on 2012, Prime Minister

Yingluck Shinawatra opened Thai Restaurant Week in New York to promote Thai

food in the US and the program of Kitchen to the World. PM Yingluck said it aimed

to produce and export more food for the world market in order to contribute to global

food security. This program would be a major contribution to a world facing food

challenges due to climate change. 122 The government is scheduling long-term

promotion of Kitchen to the World project and demonstrating Thai cuisine by Thai

chefs to educate foreign audiences about raw materials and Thai cooking culture, as

there is no secret to Thai cuisine. In her speech the PM also said “The correct cooking

process and the way to eat authentic Thai food will create a good image for Thai food

and stimulate foreign consumption of Thai cuisine.”

Recovery from the 1997 crisis made Thailand's economy highly export-

dependent.123 From 51.31 million ha total area of Thailand, almost half of that is for

120 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food

industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-

kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105 121 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck

Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 122 Thai E-Newsletter. (2012). Thailand Wants to be the Kitchen for a Hungry World, PM Yingluck

says in USA. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/archives/2458#more-2458 123 Somchai Jitsuchon, & Chalongphob Susangkarn. (2010). ADBI Working Paper Series: Thailand's Growth Rebalancing, (154). Retrieved from Asian Development Bank Institute website:

https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/156009/adbi-wp154.pdf

44

agricultural production area.124 The abundant natural resources and raw materials, the

year-round planting season, the cultural prosperity of the cuisine made Thailand

known as “The Food Basket of Asia” and the relatively low cost labor but skilled and

well-educated labor provide Thailand with competitive advantages in the food

industry.125 The food industry is an important contributor to Thailand’s economy and

has earned the country the sobriquet “Kitchen of the World”. Through the Kitchen to

the Word program, the government wants to accelerate the growth of the food

industry and ensure that Thai food served around the world is authentic.126

The strategies to lead Thailand as the “Kitchen of the World” are promoting

the exports of raw materials, processed foods (Ready-to-cook, Ready-to-eat, sauces or

seasoning) and non-food products such as tableware and decorations for Thai

restaurants and skilled labors for working overseas, as the first target of the policy,

the government plans to increase the number of Thai restaurant overseas, which could

help to boost the annual export of Thai food industry.127 The most important mission

of Thai Kitchen to the World strategy is to ensure Thai food products to meet the

safety and hygiene standards required by international regulations. Throughout these

strategies, Thailand aims to act as a real “kitchen” to serve for the world food

consumption.128 Therefore, the issues of food safety and authentic Thai food are very

important for Thai food industries to go to the world level.

The government's efforts in officially facilitating Thai culture representation

abroad by making the restaurant as an informal embassy or a center of Thai culture.

The government do not run the day-to-day operations of the company, leaving that to

the more experienced partner and department in each country. The government will

124 Ibid., 125 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 126 The Government Public Relations Department. Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants

Worldwide. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index 127 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the

World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

128 Ibid.,

45

play a “strong role” in drawing up the menus, enforcing “genuine” quality and

making sure the restaurants buy at least 60% of their supplies from Thailand.

III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy

Thailand is currently the single largest food exporter in Asia and is known as

the “Kitchen of the World”. The abundance of resources, specialization,

diversification, R&D, and technological advancements have increased productivity

and have established Thailand’s reputation. 129 The scientific blending of spices,

ginger, galangal, lemongrass, and vegetables is remarkable. Thai cuisine is

considered a proud heritage of the Thai people handed down through generations,

they rightly believe it is second to none.130 Thai eating culture, the promotion of

“Thai Kitchen to the World” was one of important part of socio-economic

development in Thailand. The Kitchen of the World program began in 2002 and aims

129 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from

https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U

S%20embassy.pdf 130 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

Figure 3.1: Kitchen of the World logo

46

to promote Thai food products. By creating awareness about food safety and

producing high quality food at competitive prices. Government’s strategies are

covering the whole process from finding materials to adding product value and

assisting distribution. One step towards achieving this program's promotion is to

increase the number of Thai restaurants globally by providing soft loans, overseeing

restaurant establishment, creating business relationships between Thai restaurants and

Thai food industries and helping to set up a Thai cooking school to train and supply

trained Thai chefs.131 The main strategies of Thai Kitchen to the World include:132

1. Expanding agriculture and food business

2. Adding value to agricultural produce with high-technology production

processes

3. Supporting cooperation at regional and international levels

4. Supporting Thai investments abroad, especially in building a network of a

Thai restaurants and food markets overseas

5. Conducting Thai Food Festivals overseas.

The Yingluck administration’s has set up objectives for Kitchen to the World

include:133

1. To be the leader of world food exporters with the highest creditability in

safety, health and sanitation,

2. To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai

recipes,

131 Ibid., 132 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the

World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.

133 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN&language=TH

47

3. To encourage Thai restaurants abroad to be tourist information centres

together with the marketing of One Tambon One Product

4. To support the increase of Thai restaurant businesses abroad and push Thai

restaurant to serve authentic Thai food and international standard.

Promoting the establishment of Thai restaurants abroad is an important

agenda of the Thai government to launch a gastrodiplomacy program through the

Kitchen to the World. The government wants Thai restaurants abroad to present

authentic Thai traditional menus such as Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong, Som Tum,

Gaeng Keow Wan Kai, or those listed in government regulations. In addition, the

restaurant is also expected to give the impression of Thai culture. Thai ethnic theming

is the way of using ethnic art, interior decor, waiter costume, goods, music, service,

name and various stereotypes to create a characterized setting which imitates Thai

exotic culture so as to represent Thailand both geographically and the culture of the

Thai people. The government hopes Thai restaurants can attract various customers for

several reasons, it can be a way to interact with Thai cultures, to experience

uniqueness or to connect with their own ethnicity for Thai visitor. Through this way,

the government hopes that visitors who come to Thai restaurants really feel the

experience of being in Thailand.

The international community's appreciation of Thai cuisine has boosted Thai

food exports and boosted Thailand's competitiveness on the international stage. This

program might be said to have good results because after the program declared the

restaurant becomes increasing every year. The positive image of Thai food has

boosted Thai restaurant business in many countries. Thai restaurants, ranging from

premium outlets to fast food, were set up by Thai people living abroad, Thai

expatriate’s wives, and former students, as well as foreigner who just fell in love with

48

Thai food.134 Currently, according to Thai Trade Center, there are about 20,000 Thai

restaurants around the world.135

III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry

With the goal of preparing Thailand to become the world’s "Kitchen," it is

developing a one-stop service to produce and export Thai food and produce to the rest

of the world. This strategy is carried out in a variety of ways, run in parallel by

various government departments and collaborating with relevant public and private

sectors.136 The units that contribute to Thai Kitchen to the World are the Ministry of

Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce (Department of International Trade

Promotion), the Ministry of Labour (Department of Skills Development and

Department of Employment), the Ministry of Industry, the Ministry of Science and

Technology, the Ministry of Health, the Export-Import Bank of Thailand, the

Thailand National Food Institute, Kasetsart University.

a.) Ministry of Foreign Affairs

For public diplomacy, the Foreign Ministry is adamant about vigorously

supporting its foreign interests and citizens abroad. 137 The Thailand Ministry of

Foreign Affairs is directly involved and played an active role in promoting Thai

cuisine globally as a leading sector and facilitator in the implementation of

gastrodiplomacy.138 The Ministry seeks to establish a harmonious and constructive

relationship in conducting gastrodiplomacy activities between government as state

actors with non-state actors starting from chef, diaspora, private sector, media,

university and public layers as a whole. Each Thai embassy gets a target to keep

134 Thailand’s Best Practices and Lessons Learned in Development (Volume 1). (n.d.). Retrieved from

UNDP | Thailand International Development Cooperation Agency (TICA) website:

http://www.th.undp.org/content/dam/thailand/docs/TICAUNDPbpVol1.pdf 135 About Us: To identify Thai restaurants with authentic Thai foods. Retrieved from

http://thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=about_us

136 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 137 Ibid 138 Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from

http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en

49

increasing the number of Thai restaurants in foreign country where they are on

duty.139

The Ministry annually allocates THB 20 million or US$ 1 million budget for

promotion of Thai food and agricultural products overseas. 140 Thai Embassy

organizing Thai Food Exhibitions such as cultural events, conduct cooking demos,

establishing cooperation to forcefully promote the true Thai food culture to foreign

public. The Ministry works together with Thailand Tourism Authority, Ministry of

Culture in organizing Thai Food Exhibitions overseas. To make the exhibitions more

attractive, the local chefs in respective countries are involved to take part in the

events and conduct cooking demos. 141 The Ministry also utilizes this event to

promote Thai culture by inviting Thai Dancers to perform traditional cultural shows.

b.) Ministry of Commerce

The ministry is in charge of trade, prices of important agricultural goods, consumer

protection, entrepreneurship, insurance, intellectual property protection, exports. The

Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) was established under the

Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, to assist in building the

competitiveness and marketing to increase the potential of Thai manufacturers and

exporters.142 The Ministry of Commerce has worked extensively on such strategies in

many countries, providing network of 61 offices world-wide (Thai Trade Centers),

including the United States, in order for Thai cuisine to be well known through Thai

restaurants selling Thai food products worldwide. In the view of the Export

Promotion Department, Thai restaurants have a good business potential that can be

139 Pujayanti, A. (2017). Gastrodiplomasi - Upaya Memperkuat Diplomasi Indonesia. Pusat Penelitian

Masalah-masalah Hubungan Internasional, Pusat Penelitian Badan Keahlian DPR, 8(1), 38-56. An

interview with Prof. Dr. Ir. Eni Harmayani, S.T.P., M.Sc. from Pusat Studi Pangan dan Gizi UGM

141 Social & Cultural Diplomatic News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from

http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 142 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

50

developed to maintain a high level of international recognition.143 To achieve that

goal, the department is carrying out a public relations campaign to build up a good

image of the country through Thai restaurants worldwide. Thai restaurants are also

used as a channel to export Thai food and products such as dining utensils, furniture,

and handmade products.

The Department of Export Promotion (DITP), Ministry of Commerce has already

issued "Thai Select" certificates with the approval of the Ministry of Commerce to the

overseas Thai restaurants that meet the criteria of the department. It is aim to raise

international awareness and recognition of Thai food while also driving Thai

restaurants overseas and food manufacturers to step up and maintain exceptional Thai

tastes and quality for a global audience under the government’s "Kitchen of the

World” policy. The department has sought cooperation from Foreign Trade

Promotion Offices and Thai embassies in foreign countries to select restaurants

meeting the standard by enabling them to team up with a selection panel to inspect

the quality of the restaurants.144 Experienced restaurateurs will run the restaurants on

a day to day basis, but according to Thailand's deputy commerce minister, Goanpot

Asvinvichit, the government will be playing a "strong role" in the conception of the

menus, and overseeing quality.145

c.) Ministry of Labor

The Department of Skill Development, the Ministry of Labor has an

enormous role to play in advancing the Kitchen to the World project, the ministry

is responsible for coordinating and enhancing the workforce's potential to

maintain competence standards to gain international recognition and compete in

143 Ibid., 144 The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP). About DITP. Retrieved from

https://www.thaitradefair.com/about-ditp/

145 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27, 2018.

51

world markets. 146 The ministry cooperates with several institutions in the

development of courses for workers, training equipment development, and

training pattern development. Furthermore, the department sets guidelines

appropriate for the labor development of different groups; it also sets the standard

for labor development, and it controls and carries out tests for workers. The

department acts as an information center about staff development, vocational

training, labor development, and industry technology development as well. For

courses to train Thai cooks, it expects trainees to gain knowledge, skills, and good

attitudes towards Thai cooking.147 They also learn how to purchase raw materials,

store and preserve them correctly, cook food and desserts, and serve them

properly.

The labor development center provides three theoretical and practical courses.

The first course covers basic knowledge and capacity (38 hours), which is made

up of work safety, principles of food sanitation and basic knowledge about

nutrition; the second teaches key knowledge and capacity (165 hours), comprising

the purchase of raw materials and storing them, cooking equipment, and Thai

cooking; and the third course covers supportive knowledge and capacity (77

hours), which consists of introduction to computer, English at work, and readiness

for running a business.

The program totals 280 hours (two months), and after that trainees are sent to

undergo training in operational institutes for two more months. Those who can

pass the evaluation are awarded a certificate of labor development expertise in the

field of Thai cooking, and they receive a recommendation letter from the

operational institutes where they went for their extra training.

146 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 147 Ibid.,

52

III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States

As stated by history, American soldiers first discovered Thai food in the

1960s where they perceived an exotic culture that they borrowed freely and out of

takes off in Los Angeles.148 A wave of Thai migration to America brings Thai food

into a part of the culture there. Starting from meeting the needs of immigrants, it

becomes an alternative for saturated Americans food because they were consistently

seeking healthy alternatives for dining by eating Thai food as a healthy diet and made

Thai food has a strong position while creating an identity for Thai-American.149 Los

Angeles as the largest Thai population outside Thailand itself made the government

launch a program that known as Gastrodiplomacy with the initiative to increase the

number of restaurants there.150 Moreover, Diplomats in Washington point out that

restaurants are often the only contact that most Americans have with foreign

cultures.151 The response and interest of Americans to the growth of Thai restaurants

in the US has caused an explosion in the number of restaurants since 2002. With the

growing number of Thai restaurants, it has indirectly increased the number of Thai

food exports to the US.

Like many other countries that do business with the US, Thailand has

recognized the importance of this growing market. Thailand is currently the single

largest food exporter in Asia, for the past 10 years, Thailand has been America’s

largest supplier of shrimp and its fourth largest global supplier of fish and seafood

and US imports more food products from Thailand than from other trading

partners.152 US are also one of the top export destinations for raw materials and Thai

148 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.

Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 149 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press 150 Ibid 151 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from

https://www.economist.com/node/999687 152 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from

https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U

S%20embassy.pdf

53

food products.153 According to the commerce minister at the time, Mr. Boonsong

Teriyapirom, Thailand has many opportunities, and if supported will increase the

opportunity to export more raw ingredients and food product.154 The minister has

instructed the Office of Foreign Trade Promotion in USA to encourage Thai chefs to

be hired.155 This will help Thailand's export revenue from the service sector and help

promote Thai Kitchen to the World policy success.

The Royal Thai Government through the tactics Gastrodiplomacy

intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine abroad through the establishment

of Thai restaurants to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's existence and

the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its prominence on the

cultural and diplomatic stages. Thailand governments in foreign countries such as the

Thai embassies around the world, especially in the United States also accept the task

of promoting the "Kitchen to the World" program as one of Thailand's interests.

Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and Royal Thai Consulate-General in Los

Angeles, New York and Chicago collaborate with Thai agencies and Thai community

regularly organizes Thai food culture promotional events in line with Thai

Government policy "Kithen to the World" to make Thailand a "Kitchen of the

World", the Thai Embassy consistently undertakes activities to improve

understanding of Thai cuisine throughout the US.

People-to-people relations have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. good

relations. The Thai Embassy has made efforts to promote ties between Americans and

Thailand and to promote understanding about Thailand and its rich culture among

153 Thailand: Feeding the World. (2014). Retrieved from Board of Investment of Thailand website:

http://www.boi.go.th/tir/issue/201408_24_8/42.htm 154 Srivalo, P. (2013). Thai-EU FTA deal within two years - The Nation. Retrieved from

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/business/Thai-EU-FTA-deal-within-two-years-30201423.html 155 Another Step towards making Thailand “Kitchen of the World”: Inauguration of International Thai

Chef Association | Royal Thai Embassy. (n.d.). Retrieved from

https://www.thaiembassy.sg/activities/another-step-towards-making-thailand-“kitchen-of-the-world”-

inauguration-of-international

54

Americans. The Thai cuisine promotion activity is an agenda of the Embassy which

aims to increase the popularity of Thai cuisine, Thai artistic arts and Thai culture

among Americans. As stated by the ambassador of Thailand, Mr Bhakavat Tanskul:

We strongly believe that people-to-people contact is one of the

effective ways to promote closer relationship between two countries. Food is a

part of our culture. The better you know about Thai food means the better you

know about us, your Thai friend. Or we can call that this is our Thai Food

Diplomacy. 156

Establishment of Thai restaurant abroad is one of the Thai government's

strategies to promote its cooking culture. The Ministry of Labor is responsible for

preparing the Thai chef to be sent abroad. By 2014, 516 Thai chefs have been

promoted to work abroad through national labour skills assessments.157 Thai chefs are

prepared by attend Thai national cooking school, training on restaurant management,

and also equipped with skills, knowledge, international standards and language skills

of each country. This effort will also provide an enhanced standard in Thai cuisine. In

2011, through the Thai Chef to the World event, Lost Angeles first hosts five of the

best Thai chefs in the world to host cooking classes for both Thai and non Thai

communities.158 This agenda features Thai cuisine creativity through cooking classes

and serves Thai flavors around the world. In addition to promoting Thai cuisine, this

activity also aims to enhance the skills of professional chefs and increase the number

of authentic Thai restaurants abroad.

III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote

Thailand Identity

Thai culinary culture is very complex with a tremendous diversity. The label

of "Thai cuisine" reflects the way other people realize that it belongs to the culinary

156 Social & Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from

http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 157 Ministry of Labour. Thailand and English Promote Standards of Thai Chefs |

กกกกกกกกกกกกก. Retrieved from http://www.mol.go.th/en/content/52363/1470586525 158 Thai Trade Center USA. Five Top Thai Chefs of the World Will Demonstrate their Skills in USA in

July. Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=2478

55

identity of Thai society in a broader cultural context. Evolved by the royal palace, the

development of Thai culinary culture reflects how Thai society views themselves in

terms of social class, community relations and its national identity.159 The influence

of transnational interactions in the formation of Thai gastronomy culture also reflects

how Thai society interacts with the outside world and modernity.160 Thai cuisine is

based on attention to detail, texture, color, taste and use of materials with medical

benefits also appearance and aroma. Authenticity is the key to a delicious Thai

cuisine that many locals are passionate that s now known worldwide and has grown

rapidly around the world over the last years. As the PM Yingluck too often found that

the food he tasted in Thai restaurants abroad did not deserve to be called as genuine

Thai cuisine, she fed up with poor Thai food so as to raise it in the cabinet meeting.

The predominant motivation for the program, according to the government is the

frustration caused by the fact that people cooking Thai food abroad just are not doing

it right. There are too many western distortions in what purports to be Thai cuisine

which is potentially damage the reputation of Thai cuisine against foreigners. In a

local newspaper columnist Thairath expressed his concern about Thai food abroad

and his support for the Kitchen of the World project:

The biggest problem of Thai food overseas today is the fact that there

are numerous Thai restaurants run by non-Thai owners that produce the

imitation of Thai food. Foreigners who eat in these restaurants misunderstand

that the pseudo Thai food is actually the Thai taste and the real Thai taste (in

a real Thai restaurant) is not authentic. It’s time to let the world experience

real authentic Thai food. 161

159 Wongcha-Um, P. (2010). What is Thai Cuisine? Thai Culinary Identity Construction From The

Rise of the Bangkok Dynasty to Its Revival (Master's thesis, National University of Singapore).

Retrieved from https://thaifoodmaster.com/what-is-thai-cuisine#.Wt861duB3MI

160 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 161 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian

Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.

56

It is important for Thailand to maintain the authenticity of the Kingdom’s cuisine;

authenticity not just on how the food tastes and is presented but also in maintaining

the traditions in the way it is cooked, and the ingredients used.

III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States

The growth of Thai restaurants in America has always been a benchmark for the

Thai government. Los Angeles is a center for the development of Thai cuisine

overseas as well as a trial site in the Thai Gastrodiplomacy campaign through Global

Thai in the 2000s.162 In addition, the United States is the country with the largest Thai

restaurant population in the world. Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America,

but what served in the US is inauthentic and distorted, it does not represent the

cultural value in Thai cuisine.163 The tastes may also differ because of preparation

techniques and using slightly different ingredients, either because the Thai ingredient

is not available, too expensive, or the cooks did not know any better.164

Thai cuisine uses distinctive ingredients, moreover some dishes require the spices

and seasoning that not always available in the US. For example, Thai Holy basil is

very important for Thai cuisine is also not widely grown in the US and restaurants

should be replaced with other types. Furthermore, fish sauce (nam plaa) is an

extremely important ingredient in Thai cooking and is used generously in almost

every dish. In addition, expensive import costs may only use local or cheaper

materials and ultimately serve less authentic foods.

In America, often, traditional Thai food becomes Americanized.165 Thai recipes in

the US tend to be modified because the restaurant adjust cooking with what they

162 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 163 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to

Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865 164 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 165 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press.

57

believe that Americans prefer. For example, Thai food has spicy flavor specialties but

Americans are not familiar with the spicy flavor and the use of strong spices so they

add a lot of sugar or replace chili with peppers or eliminate it, of course it will be

different. only a few Americans have a deep understanding of it, perhaps only those

who have traveled to Thailand are aware of it.

Most of the cooks of Thai cuisine in US have no enough skill to meet the Royal

Thai cooks standard, most of them are not Thai and have not necessarily studied Thai

cuisine directly and it is crucial to serve Thai food to many people. A great Thai chef

is in Thailand, according to Blue Elephant restaurant owners at the time, not many

Thai workers are eligible or have work visa permits that can be employed. Finally, in

general, most cuisines in America are less appreciated.166

Thailand’s have complex cooking styles, flavours and unique dishes. The Thai have a

saying, “Gan gin gan yu” “as you eat, so you are”, which is reflective of how

166 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press.

Figure 3.2 Som Tam (Left) and Pad Thai (Right) – Thailand Thai food and American

Thai food

58

integral food is to Thai culture and identity. It is perfectly encapsulates their approach

to food.167

III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select”

Thai food has grown rapidly among foreign consumers and makes it one of

the world's most popular. Exotic, delicious and healthy Thai food is not just a meal,

but a culinary experience. To achieve this and further promote the Thai food industry

for the sustainable growth, Thai Select is established. 168 It is a seal of approval

granted to Thai restaurants overseas that serve authentic Thai food, and processed

Thai food products. The objective is to increase the recognition of quality Thai

restaurants and processed Thai food products as well as to encourage Thai

restauranteurs and food producers to raise their quality while maintaining

authenticity.169 Thai Select is part of the government’s “Thai Kitchen to the World”

project, first introduced in 2006 and re-launched by Prime Minister Yingluck in 2011

to boost the cuisine’s international appeal, educate and enhance the popularity of

authentic Thai cuisines around the world. To maintain the image and identity of Thai

food in the local and global market;170

“The “Thai Select” project was originated from the Prime Minister wishing

to have authentic taste of Thai food and to promote Thai food in both food

service business and industry sectors to the international arena. Supported by

the international principles such as standard certification and scientific

methods, Thai flavors will develop its credibility and assure its identity. To

promote the real tastes of Thai food, scientific data and senses of Thai flavor

are used to set standard in a range of acceptable values. Because consumers

167 Tsai, M., Liew, C., & Ling, K. F. (2002). The food of Asia: Featuring authentic recipes from master

chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Sri

Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam. Singapore: Periplus. 168 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade

Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384

169 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 170 “Authentic Thai Food for the World” to Upgrade “Rod Thai Tae” Food Standard Worldwide. Retrieved from http://www.travelthaiculture.com/authentic-thai-food-for-the-worldto-upgrade-rod-

thai-tae-food-standard-worldwide/

59

in different countries may have different preferences of flavors, it can be

adapted accordingly if it is in the range of standard.”171

Under the DITP, Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, awarded

Thai Select certificates to Thai restaurants abroad serving authentic Thai cuisine in a

pleasant atmosphere, and with renowned Thai hospitality. Under the Thai Select

project, a Thai restaurant that meets Ministry standards will be supported by a

certificate to ensure quality food and quality service. The objective of Thai Select are

to recognize an endorse quality Thai restaurants and increase the recognition of

quality Thai restaurant. Moreover, Thai Select aims to encourage Thai restaurateurs

to raise their quality standards so that they are at an international level. 172 The

program is also expected to provide understanding to foreign public about the real

Thai cuisine culture which become the identity and pride of Thailand.173

“To enjoy the real Thai dining, you don’t actually need to be in Thailand. But

how can you ensure that you get the real experience? Simply look for the

“Thai Select” logo from Royal Thai Government. It assures you that delicious

Thai cuisine is being served in a pleasant atmosphere, and with a famous Thai

smile. It's not just a meal ; it's a journey into Thai culture.”174

The certification of Thai SELECT restaurant is divided into two categories based on

decoration and service excellence :175

171 Ibid., 172 Interview with Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy. Washington D.C. Wednesday,

11 April 2018

173 Ibid., 174 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 175 Thai Select Aplication Process. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaiselect.com/DITP_THAISELECT/program/file_upload/document/Application_form_ba

dge.pdf

60

Thai SELECT PREMIUM indicates a degree of excellence of 5-star or higher.

The label is granted to restaurants that offer authentic Thai food of premium

quality with luxury decorations and outstanding services.

Thai SELECT indicates a degree of excellence of 3 to 4-stars, awarded to

restaurants serving fine authentic Thai foods.

Figure 3.3: "Thai Select Premium" and "Thai Select" Logo

According to the Thai DITP, which run the Thai Select program, there are 568

Thai Select restaurant all over the US. Underlying these efforts is a brand of cultural

identity that has come to define Thai nationalism today. Thailand has given an

important role to restaurant owners, chefs and diaspora as non-state actors and make

Thai restaurant as an unofficial embassy, where Thailand becomes more

represented.176 The restaurant can provide the possibility for cultural interaction as

the information center for foreign public and this is where the opportunity for public

culinary diplomacy is established.177

176 Thailand, Asia’s New Culinary Crown. (2016, March 4). Retrieved from

http://thaiembdc.org/2016/03/04/thailand-asias-new-culinary-crown/

177 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.

61

To obtain a Thai Select certificate, the government has set several qualifications.178

To be eligible for certification, restaurants must meet the following criteria:

• Restaurant must have been in operation at least six months prior to the date of

application.

• At least 60 percent of dishes offered on the menu must be authentic Thai cuisine

and the cooking methods must be the same or very similar to those in Thailand.

• Head chefs may be either Thai or other nationalities. In case of non-Thai Head

Chefs, the chefs must produce proof of at least a 2-year experience in cooking

Thai foods or possess a Thai cuisine training certificate from an accredited

institution.

As stated by Chef Jet Tila, the first Ambassador of Thai Cuisine in Los Angeles,

"Having something like Thai Select program makes it straightforward: we have the

Thai government backing our claim".179 In some Thai Select restaurant assessments,

DITP also sets non-food requirements to create an authentic atmosphere inside a

restaurant. Thailand is often called the “Land of Smiles,” not only its natural beauty

and historical riches, but also because of the country’s friendly people and fascinating

culture.180

By emphasizing service and decoration, restaurateurs organize their waitresses

wear Thai style uniform such as silk dresses, Thai style menu design using Thai

language, traditional Thai greeting. Thai style tableware/silverware, authentic Thai

music, and real authentic Thai exterior and interior design. Restaurateurs usually

178 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade

Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384

179 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 180 Tourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand - Land Of SmilesTourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand.

(n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.tourismthailand.com

62

prepare their employee the knowledge regarding Thai food and culture and

communication skills since Thai people believe that storytelling would increase

multicultural awareness and diversity respect among their culture. Moreover, in some

big Thai restaurants, within a certain time, the restaurant will feature traditional

performances such as dance, theater and traditional music performances.

With an emphasis on authenticity of cuisine and atmosphere, it is the Thai people

way to boast and preserve its culture. Through the restaurant, the government seeks to

bring parts of Thailand into restaurants abroad beyond geographical boundaries, this

is the core of Thai gastrodiplomacy.

63

Figure 3.5: Authentic Thai restaurant interior design

Figure 3.4: Authentic Thai restaurant service

Figure 3.6: Traditional Performance in Thai Restaurant

64

III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating

Habit

Fast food is part of the American lifestyle, but eating too much fast food can

have health consequences. A number of studies have linked fast food to health

problems, including an increased risk of obesity, poor nutrition, diabetes, heart

disease, and stroke. Currently, eating habits trend in US has turned to healthy food

consumption. This change has given rise to an increasing public awareness of healthy

issues. Poor diet causes nearly half of all US deaths due to heart disease, stroke and

diabetes. The research is based on U.S. government data showing there are almost

1,000 deaths from these causes alone, every day and on an analysis of national health

surveys that asked participants about their eating habits.181 Along with awareness of

disease has come public education about dietary trend. The United States Department

of Agriculture (USDA) recommends consumers maintain a nutritious and balanced

diet. however, US consumers have made an effort to eat more fruits and vegetables

and made small changes to achieve an overall healthy diet.182

At one level, this meant a saturation of American food products on fast food

into diets of Thai population. America needs to a healthy diet, these are consistent

with the traditional Thai eating pattern. Thai eating customs do not share many

similarities with the American customs, in most respects the eating style is quite

different. A CNN report notes that Thai cuisine ranks in the top 10 of healthy diets.183

Thai food popularity among millennials, one of the fastest growing segments of the

181 Davis, D. R., Epp, M. D., & Riordan, H. D. (2004). Changes in USDA Food Composition Data for

43 Garden Crops, 1950 to 1999. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 23(6), 669-682.

doi:10.1080/07315724.2004.10719409 182 U.S. Department of Agriculture, & U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.

(2010). Dietary Guidelines for Americans. Retrieved from USDA website:

https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/dga2010/DietaryGuidelines2010.pdf 183 The 10 healthiest ethnic cuisines - CNN.com. (2010). Retrieved from

http://edition.cnn.com/2010/HEALTH/08/25/healthiest.ethnic.cuisines/index.html

65

restaurant market. According to Edelman Digital, some 23% of millennials say they

eat Thai food regularly.184

The special quality of Thai food is its ability to reflect three key values –

nutritional, cultural, and medical with the use of fresh ingredients, well-trained

natural talent in cooking methods and presentation techniques, and the generous use

of herbs and spices. Thai food is a harmonious combination of tastes and medicinal

qualities, as the ingredients are mainly vegetables and herbs. According to Health,

traditional Thai food is not only abundant in spice, it's also got some benefits: spicy

food can help slow down the eating process, causing you to eat more slowly and feel

fuller more quickly.185

It is rather interesting to note that amongst all the world cuisines available in

the US, it is indeed the Thai cuisine that renders consistency in form of a healthy and

well balanced diet.186 This is certainly because Thai food is an amalgamation of

numerous varying elements from across the continents by including all the best and

healthy options and leaving out the not so healthy ones.187 Not only that but Thai

cuisine comprises of a flurry of seafood, fish, salads which are all brilliant

alternatives to red meat dishes. Overall Thai cuisine offers meals which are pretty

much balanced for a healthy diet. Another enormous selling point for Thai food is its

healthy approach to ingredients, providing a welcome choice for consumers who

desire improved nutrition. Health professionals have long stressed the advantages of a

plant-derived diet, with a reduced focus on meats, in producing lower incidence of

heart disease and cancer. Herbs play an important role in Thai cooking and the health-

184 Why is Thai food so popular? (n.d.). Retrieved from https://thaiexpressfranchise.com/research/why-

is-thai-food-popular/ 185 HEALTH. (2013, May 7). World's Best Superfoods. Retrieved from

http://www.health.com/health/article/0,,20429860,00.html 186 In Farrer, J. (2015). The globalization of Asian cuisines: Transnational networks and culinary

contact zones.

187 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html

66

giving properties of plants such as garlic (Krat-thiam), holy basil (Ka-phrao), mint

(Sa-ra-nae) and lemongrass (Takhrai) is often stressed.188

Eating Thai food in a restaurant does not necessarily serve traditional foods

that prioritize nutrition and ingredients, but Thai Select restaurant is sure to serve a

healthy, traditional Thai cuisine menu. The Thai Select is a seal of approval from

Thailand's Ministry of Commerce that ensures authenticity and quality Thai cuisine

around the world. It is based on a vigorous assessment of health and food safety,

proportion of Thailand-imported ingredients, dish characteristics, and finally, the

Chef's background.189 Thai Select strives to serve a healthy, traditional Thai cuisine

menu. The healthy menu is where everything is gluten free, no MSG and no saturated

fats, and which highlights the health benefits of various Thai herbs and ingredients.190

Authentic Thai food has unique spices, and sauces that seem to please many people,

offering a new flavor, less saturated fat. Healthy yet delicious food, that's why Thai

restaurants are so popular everywhere, all over the world, including the US.

188 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 189 Sornsaruht, P., & Sawmong, S. (2017). Antecedents of Thai Select restaurant loyalty in the United

Kingdom. Retrieved from

190 Ibid.,

67

CHAPTER IV

THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE

WORLD PROGRAM IN THE UNITED STATES

IV.1 Food and Diplomacy

Food is always present in everyday of human life as a necessity and being

developed through human creativity that includes cross-cultural activity. One that

Koentjaraningrat conveys as one of the cultural systems is livelihood systems to get

the goods and services. In other words, the economic system is to produce, and to

distribute by collecting food, farming, raising, hunting, trading and others. 191

Therefore, food has taken part of the cultural aspects of a community group, because

each group or more broadly, a nation has its peculiarity to its cuisine that makes every

food has its own historical and philosophical value. 192 The diversity and

distinctiveness of food or culinary of any ethnics or communities is closely related to

the environment and social conditions. Food, cuisine, traditions, values and practices

serve as a marker of the cultural and social aspects of individual and community

identity.193 Throughout history, food has become a part of community or group that

belongs to different culture and ethnic. It makes variety of food that belongs to varies

communities exist and both created and served based on their own characteristic.

Such thing is connected with the term gastronomy. According to Fossali, gastronomy

is an appreciation of “the art of good eating” that studies on the relationship between

culture and eating, it also studies various cultural components with food as its

191 Kuncaraningrat. (2000). Kebudayaan, mentalitas dan pembangunan: Bunga rampai (p. 16). 192 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer

dalam Hubungan Internasional. 193 Parasecoli, F. (2014). Food, Identity, and Cultural Reproduction in Immigrant Communities.

68

object. 194 The role of gastronomy is the basis for understanding how food and

beverage are used in certain situations. Universally gastronomy makes it possible to

construct an overview of approaches or behaviors to foods and beverages used in

different countries and cultures.195

“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are” that phrase from a

French gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, can be interpreted from

someone's eating habits and the type of food they eat, that will resulted prediction of

where they come from. Food is the cultural identity that has the ability to represent a

nation. Such thing can be recognized very easily as it relates to lifestyle elements. For

instance, when people hear Tom Yam, the first picture that came to their mind is a

soup that tasted sour, spicy, and a country that is famous for pagodas and elephants.

Resulting the idea that Tom Yam is Thailand. Similarly when people hear dumpling,

sushi, spaghetti, ceviche, etc. From culinary we also know the habits of Chinese or

Japanese eating with chopsticks, as well pasta is the Italian traditional cuisine and

Peruvian like to put citrus juice on their dish.

Since 1900, academics began studying food to see its contribution, especially

to the political disciplines that began introducing food issues as the basis of political

science for the sustainability and proliferation of a modern nation state. 196

Morgenthau proposed the idea of a state's "Power of Prestige", which is a proto-

conceptualization of how political elites use cultural diplomacy and soft power in

diplomacy to achieve their goals.197 One example of the power of prestige is food as a

194 Fossali, P. B. (2008). Seven Conditions for the Gastronomic Sciences. Gastronomic Sci, 4(8), 54-

86.

195 Blood, A.J., Zatorre, R.J. (2001). Intensely pleasurable responses to music correlate with activity in

brain regions implicated in reward and emotion. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,

USA, 98

196 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy, an interview with Samuel Chapple

https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and-diplomacy 197 Morgenthau 1985, Retrieved from Reynolds, Christian, Diplomatic Gastronomy: The Convivial

Nature of the Power of Prestige, Cultural Diplomacy and Soft Power (February 21, 2012). The

69

part of culture, or national cuisines to be precise, which can be used by actors and

political elites as an instrument in conducting the country’s diplomacy.

National cuisines have spread through migration, trade and globalization.

When promoting national cuisine, it can be assumed that a country is also expressing

their cultures and values.198 These forms of cultural diplomacy whether deliberate or

unintentional has been coined as Gastrodiplomacy. The terms gastrodiplomacy was

first coined in the early 2000s initiated by the Royal Thai Government with its

“Global Thai” initiative to promote the Thai cuisine globally.199 Since the year of

2008, scholars such as Paul Rockower and Sam Chappel-Sokol were starting to study

gastrodiplomacy resulting the concept becoming increasingly popular. The term

gastrodiplomacy is also familiar and supported by a statement of “the best way to win

hearts and mind is through the stomach”.200 Through the use of food in diplomacy,

cross-cultural understanding aims to be achieved to enhance national brand

awareness, interactions and cooperation in international level.201 Food is a symbol

used to communicate ideas, values, identities, attitudes, and social classes, which

makes food as an important part diplomacy for a long time.202 The utilization of food

in gastrodiplomacy is a continuation of the use of the "oldest diplomacy instrument"

as food has been used for cross-cultural understanding in the hope of enhancing

interaction in bilateral and multilateral cooperation since a long time ago.203

International Conference on Cultural Diplomacy & the UN "Cultural Diplomacy & Soft Power in an

Interdependent World: The Opportunities for Global Governance" NYC & Washington DC, February

21st - 24th, 2012.. Available at SSRN: https://ssrn.com/abstract=2603310

199 Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002, February). Retrieved from

http://www.economist.com/node/999687 200 Rockower, P. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrivied from

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html. 201 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183. 202 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary

Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 568-591. 203 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague

Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.

70

Practically, gastrodiplomacy is believed to be a practice under the umbrella of

public diplomacy where government can promote the country’s soft power.204 The

practice of gastrodiplomacy offers foreign publics the opportunity to engage with

other culture through food. 205 For many foreign public who do not have the

opportunity to visit other countries directly, gastrodiplomacy initiatives or program

open up more opportunity to foreign public to ‘have a taste’ of the country by tasting

the authentic food that belongs to the country itself.206 Not only tasting the food,

gastrodiplomacy initiatives and programs also gives opportunity for foreign public to

know the philosophy and the process behind the making of the cuisine, as well as a

chance to study the culture of the country. Rockower explains that gastrodiplomacy is

mostly used by middle power states such as Thailand, Peru, South Korea.207

As a country that is blessed by rich agricultural roots and resources, combined

with unique culture, Thailand has run the most active gastrodiplomacy to improve its

reputation in global level. Since 2002, the Thai government has declared the use of its

national cuisine in the practice of diplomacy under a program named of ‘Global

Thai’, which continuously renewed to Kitchen to the World under different

administrations.208 The agenda is to introduce Thai culture through national cuisine

by government sponsored program, practiced by increasing the number of Thai

restaurants abroad.209 Through Thai restaurants, it is expected that visitors will enter

another dimensions to experience the real Thailand, through the taste of authentic

food, friendly service, as Thailand is famously known as "Land of Smile", and real

204 Ibid., 205 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved

from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/gastrodiplomacy.pdf

206 Ibid., 207 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved

from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 208 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from

https://www.economist.com/node/999687 209 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food

industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-

kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105

71

atmosphere that identic to the country through the restaurant decoration. 210 Thai

restaurant will also shows the relationship between authenticity, tourism, and

tradition.211 As Chappel-Sokol said “you can go to a Thai restaurant and eat Thai

food and meet Thai people and understand more of what that culture is about”.212

The culinary approach undertaken by the Thai government is not just a

temporary event aiming for short-term outcomes, this strategy has been

systematically prepared as a sustainable programs.213 Every Thai embassy has a target

in increasing the number of Thai restaurants. In addition, Royal Thai embassy and

consulate along with Thai communities abroad routinely organize Thai cultural

events such as commemorating the Songkran festival (Thai New Year celebrations),

Thai Festival as well as events to promote Thai cuisine through Restaurant Week.

IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of

the World 2011-2014

Thai food had their characteristic worth for purchasing and learning. As Thai

food has a good reputation in Thai culture, the government wants to introduce to the

world the pleasures of Thai cuisine and to capitalize on a rapidly expanding ethic

foods sector in the US. This research will focus on government strategy in promoting

Thailand as Kitchen of the World for US. The Thai government seeks to educate,

attract the attention and interest of the American community in recognizing the

culture of Thai cuisine. This promotion is believed to have an impact in the social

development of Thailand's economic because the food industry has become an

210 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 211 Molz, J. G. (2004). Tasting an imagined Thailand: Authenticity and culinary tourism in Thai

restaurants. Culinary Tourism, 2, 54-75. 212 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy. The interview with Sam Chappel-Sokol

(n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and-

diplomacy

213 Thai PM opens “Thai Kitchen to the World” event to promote Thai food industry.

http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-

thai-food-industry-13105

72

important part to bring Thailand's economic growth. Through some strategies the

government tried to introduce Thai food.

IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School

The ambitious initiative of Thai government aims to establish thousands Thai

restaurants abroad makes a high demand for more Thai cooks and chef to hire

abroad, such thing is needed not only to serve authentic Thai food but also the

creation of authentic Thai experience. As part of the Thai Kitchen to the World

project, the Thailand Ministry of Labour support in promoting Thai professional

workforce in culinary field.214

Still under the umbrella of Thai Kitchen to the World, for the first time the

Royal Thai government pointed a Thai-American chef and gastronomy storyteller, Jet

Tilakamonkul as the first Cuisine Ambassador. 215 He was assigned to travel in the

United States to increase national awareness and promote Thai cuisine and culture.

The commitment of Thailand government in running gastrodiplomacy strategy

towards the United States is also become stronger through the appointment of the

cuisine ambassador.216 Chef Jet Tila duties includes a tour in the United States on

behalf of the Thai government to provide food demonstrations, making media

appearances and coordinating events.217 He has appeared on several major television

programs such as CBS, NBC, Iron Chef America, Rachael vs. Guy Celebrity Cook-

Off; and holds six culinary Guinness World Records, and other cooking TV programs

to talk about the history of Thai food in the United States.218

214 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). : Thailand : Kitchen of the

World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 215 Interview DITP 216 Ibid., 217 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 218 Jet Tila Appointed Thai Cuisine Ambassador. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/jet-tila-appointed-thai-cuisine-ambassador-2897096

73

The government also encourages Americans to learn about Thai cuisine

through the establishment of Thai cooking school and courses, where people will not

only learn how to prepare food, but also the philosophy behind that. Most of the

schools and courses offered in America are mostly lead by Thai Chef living in the US

or guest chef that came all the way from Thailand. Here some most-known schools

and courses across US:

No. Thai Cooking School / Course Location

1. Thai Fresh 909 West Mary Street Unit B

Texas, Austin, 78704

512-494-6436

thai-fresh.com

Short, recreational courses

2. Blue Ribbon Culinary Center 2501 Fairview Avenue E.

Washington, Seattle, 98102

blueribboncooking.com

3. Supatra 967 West 7th Street

Minnesota, St. Paul, 55102

651-222-5859

supatra.com

4. Sawatdee Thai Cooking School 607 Washington Avenue S.

Minnesota, Minneapolis, 55415

612-338-6415

sawatdee.com

5. Fantastic Thai 12 Reagan Street

New Jersey, Old Bridge, 08857

74

732-277-5902

fantastic-thai.com

One day classes

Four day courses

Chef courses individually designed to

the chef

6. Thai Gourmet House 8313 East Monterosa Street

Arizona, Scottsdale, 85251

408-947-1258

thaigourmethouse.com

Recreational classes

culinarycenterofmonterey.com

7. Culinary Center of Monterey Creative Thai Cooking

625 Cannery row

Monterey, CA 93940

831-333-2133

8. Thai Food and Travel Thai Food and Travel

California, Oakland, 94620

thaifoodandtravel.com

Four-day beginner’s course

Eight-day advanced course

Optional travel to Thailand

Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States

75

IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the

United States

Along with the increasing popularity of Thai cuisine since more than a decade

ago, it is no wonder that the taste in Thai dishes becomes ‘Americanized’ with

adjusted tastes for the American.219 The Thai Trade Center (TTC) in USA under

supervision of Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), Ministry of

Commerce, Royal Thai Government, are responsible for promoting trade and services

between Thailand and United States.220

In support of Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Government

has launched the "Thai Select” program to certify and promote authentic Thai cuisine

around the world. The government wants to create more awareness among American

towards Thai restaurants that serve authentic Thai cuisine so people appreciate the

real taste in food, taste the exotic ingredients that complement each dish. Its main

purpose is to provide opportunities for people to taste the same food they would eat in

Thailand. The program is also intended to encourage Thai restaurateurs and food

producers to raise the quality of their products and services while maintaining the

authenticity.

The Thai Select certificate is designed as the official recognition that

identifies restaurants to properly use correct ingredients in their dishes with no

substitutes, preparing the food in the traditional Thai style of cooking and overall

taste.221 TTC, DITP and the Royal Thai Government decide on the standards and

judge the restaurant's food. From approximately 20,000 of Thai restaurants spread

throughout the world, at this time there are only 1,652 or 10 percent out of the

219 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,

California: University of California Press. 220 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018

221 Ibid.,

76

number, that have become Thai Select–certified. Commerce Minister Apiradi

Tantraporn in 2016 said out that the government has set a target to increase the

number of Thai restaurants that have earned the Thai Select logo by 100 percent to

3,000 by 2020.222

Thai restaurant operators that have been awarded with Thai Select logo will

receive several privileges. For example, they will be selected to join various trade

fairs in Thailand and abroad and will be invited to participate in seminars organized

by the Department of International Trade Promotion. 223 The Thai government is

proud to share the diversity of taste in Thai food with the United States, through one

of the most prestigious events, Thailand Restaurant Week in major American cities

every year.224 Thailand Restaurant Week is a Thai cultural event to showcase the

variety of Thai cuisine that involve many Thai Select restaurants in US. 225 The

222 Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants Worldwide. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index

223 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018 224 Thai Restaurant Week: A Month to Celebrate Thai Cuisine http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=15286 225 LLC, I. (n.d.). Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy in Washington, DC – News

Category – EVENTS. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/news_cat/events

Figure 4.1 Former Prime Minister Yingluck awarded "Thai

Select" certification to the Thai restaurateurs

77

participating restaurants will offer special menu as well as exhibiting their Chef’s

cooking skill.226 Still in this event, DITP present Thai Select certification awards to

the qualified restaurants.

Figure 4.2: Thai Select restaurant growth graphic

Thai food is booming in the US due to the explosion in the number of Thai

ethnic restaurants. Over the past 16 years, since the Thai government initiated an

initiative using gastrodiplomacy in 2002 by increasing the quantity of Thai

restaurants around the world have a rapid development. At the time, there were 5,500

Thai restaurants worldwide and increased to fourfold today.227 Since the launch of the

Thai Select certification program under the administration of PM Yingluck also

showed a rapidly increasing the awareness of authentic traditional Thai food around

the world. Currently, Thai Select restaurants have increased threefold since 2011 to

226 Ibid., 227 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved

from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf

2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

Worldwide 508 720 980 1200 1360 1443 1625

United States 81 195 270 325 380 470 568

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

1800

Thai Select Restaurant Growth

78

1652 in 2017. 228 The United States has the largest number of Thai restaurant

population outside Thailand. According to Thai Trade for USA under DIPT North

America, in 2011 US have 81 Thai Select-certified restaurants, 195 restaurants in

2012, 270 restaurants in 2013 and 325 in 2014.229 The program continues until today

and US have more than 568 Thai Select-certified restaurants all over the country.230

Figure 4.2: Thai Select Restaurant in the United States231

Alabama 7 Indiana 9 Nebraska 3 South

Calorina

11

Alaska 0 Lowa 1 Nevada 3 South

Dakota

0

228 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of

International Trade Promotion (DITP) 229 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade

Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue

Service (IRS) 230 Ibid., 231 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of

International Trade Promotion (DITP)

THE WEST

THE

NORTH-

EAST THE MIDWEST

THE SOUTH

79

Arizona 2 Kansas 2 New

Hampshire

0 Tennessee 12

Arkansas 0 Kentucky 5 New Jersey 17 Texas 15

California 70 Louisiana 4 New Mexico 2 Utah 1

Colorado 6 Maine New York 61 Vermont 1

Connecticut 7 Maryland 11 North

Carolina

Virginia 5

Delaware 2 Massachusetts 4 North Dakota Washington 42

Florida 119 Michigan 9 Ohio 11 West

Virginia

0

Georgia 12 Minnesota 10 Oklahoma 0 Wisconsin 3

Hawaii 5 Mississippi 2 Oregon 10 Washington

D.C

1

Idaho 2 Missouri 12 Pennsylvania 9 Wyoming 1

Illionis 53 Montana 3 Rodhe Island 3

Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States

To ensure that Americans can have authentic Thai culinary experience, DIPT

support the endorsement of Thai Select certification that guarantees the authenticity

of the Thai food being served. Currently the United States has about 5,500 Thai

restaurants, or more than one-third of all that are outside Thailand.232 There are 568

restaurants in all over US that have been awarded Thai Select logo as an excellent

way to introduce foodie to the Thai culture in an authentic manner.233 The number of

Thai Select restaurant and the Thai food has become immensely popular in US with

the American customers awareness of Thai authentic dish. According to the Thai

Select USA, most of Thai Select restaurant population is on The South with 42%,

232 Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce 233 Data is processed from Thai Select Restaurant in the United States. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaiselectusa.info//pages/restauranthome/#.Wt6a29uB3MI

80

following by The Midwest 35%, The West 14% and The North East 9%.234 Lot of

Thai restaurants can be found in every major US city like New York, Las Angeles,

etc. Even in the smaller cities like Alabama, Delaware, Virginia the interest in Thai

food is increasing.235

IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States

In order to create better awareness of Thai cuisine heritage and support the

Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and

Royal Thai Consulate-General offices in collaboration with the Ministry of Culture of

Thailand undertaken various project to promote their culture including Thai cooking

and food, traditional product, massage, art and cultural performance to the

American.236 In a broader context, the events have been implemented in line with

Thailand’s public and cultural diplomacy policy that aims to strengthen relationship

and enhance better understanding between Thailand and foreign countries as well as

among their peoples.237 Since 2011-2014 Thai government abroad organized series of

cultural activities and event to showcase the best of Thai culture. The annual cultural

event and food festival serves as a bridge connecting Thais and American.

No. Event Location and Date

1. The 8th Annual Songkran Thai Festival Washington D.C.

April 11th -17th , 2011

234 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade

Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue

Service (IRS) 235 Ibid., 236 Social & Cultural News - Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Kingdom of Thailand. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.mfa.go.th/main/en/media-center/30/page-52.html 237 Royal Thai Embassy News: Thai cultural Performance. (2015). Retrieved from

https://www.thaiembassylima.com/news/2015-07-16.php

81

2. Taste of Siam Road Show Los Angeles

December 22nd -24th , 2011

3. The 9th Annual Songkran Thai

Festival 2012

Thai Town, Los Angeles USA

April 1st, 2012

4. New York “Thai Select” Restaurant

Week

New York

September 2012

Songkran & Thai Restaurant Week

Washington D.C.

April 10th -17th , 2013

5. Thai Food Festival with Celebrity

Chefs

Los Angeles

September 29th, 2013

6. Thai Select Restaurants Week Chicagoland

September 1st -30th, 2013

82

7. Thai Restaurant Week

New York, Pennyslvania, New Jersey

September 16th – 22nd , 2013

8. Thai Restaurant Week

Los Angeles – Western U.S.

September 23rd – 29th , 2013

83

8. Songkran Thai Restaurant Week

Washington, DC

April 10th -17th , 2014

10. Thai Culture and Food Festival

The Buddhist Temple

Dallas, Texas

May 24th -25th , 2014

11. Thailand Week: Thai Food for Health

California Center for the Arts

Escondido in San Diego.

September 1st – 7th 2014

84

12. Hom Mali Rice Thai Restaurant Week

DC Metro Area

September 25th – October 3rd 2015

13. Thai Food Day

Public Schools in Washington D.C.

November 6th, 2014

Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014238

Annually, Thai foreign government celebrates Songkran Festival, the most

famous festival in Thailand, which marks the Thai New Year. The Songkran

celebration is rich with symbolic traditions. Thai embassy with the Thai community

in US inviting all the Americans to celebrate the day with varieties of activities at the

Festival namely religious ceremony such as a water blessing at the Buddha statue by

the monks, traditional Thai music and dances, Muay Thai demonstration, the

238 Data processed from Royal Thai Embassy, Washington D.C., Royal Thai Consulate General of Los

Angeles, Royal Thai Consulate General of New York and Thai Trade USA

85

Songkran Festival Queen beauty pageant contest and many more. There was also an

exhibition zone where Thai handicrafts, vegetables and fruits crafting, and making of

Thai desserts were demonstrated. A special cooking demonstration the top Thai

Cuisine Chef and Celebrity Chef was attracted huge interest of the audience. In

addition, there were many stalls serving favourite Thai dishes and desserts.

Approximately more than 30,000 people participated in every events.239

The Thai embassy also sponsored annual event called Thai Restaurant Week

since 2010 in the United States to promote Thai culture through the distinctively

delicious Thai cuisine.240 The National Thai Restaurant Week, made Americans get

good deals at dozens of local Thai restaurants that have been certified through Thai

Select. The restaurants are fulfilling the standard preparation of Thai cuisine to make

sure authentic Thai cuisines are getting served.241 The Embassy invited a group of

Thai chefs from famous International Culinary School or Celebrity Chef to prepare

authentic Thai dinner and perform cooking demonstration.242 Thai Restaurant Week

is a project of Thailand's Department of International Trade Promotion and the Thai

Trade Center, this is the only event in the States where Thai chefs and celeb non-Thai

chefs are coming together to celebrate Thai culture.243 The people will be able to

enjoy the food festival which will feature the best of Thai cuisine prepared from the

finest and freshest ingredients to create an exotic menu that combines a refined

palette with native flavours to serve the most authentic dishes to all Thai food

enthusiast.

239 Thai Trade USA. (2013). Thai Restaurant Week Press Release [Video file]. Retrieved from

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEn0e62kr2s 240 Ibid.,

241 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved

from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 242 Ibid., 243 DC's Thai embassy hosting food, culture festival. (2012, June 23). Retrieved from

https://www.washingtonexaminer.com/dcs-thai-embassy-hosting-food-culture-festival

86

The event has successfully raised awareness about Thai food and culture

among Americans. The establishment of those events is believed to support the

increase popularity of Thai cuisine in US, which is also supported by the presence of

Thai Select-certified restaurants featured in the events that serve authentic cuisine

with genuine cooking procedures. Cultural events are also expected to enhance the

Thai and US cultural relations and increase foreign tourist arrival. According to

Ambassador of Thailand to the United States, Vijavat Isarabhakdi in 2014, every year

Thai Restaurant Week has been very successful to gained greater interest and have

been a larger number of people and restaurant participating in the event.244

On another occasion, Thai embassy also cooperates with various agencies in

the US to establish relationships with US students by promoting knowledge about

Thailand and its rich culture. One of them is Thai embassy cooperation with DC

Public School by holding “Thai Food Day” where about 45,000 students in more than

100 public schools in D.C. has Thai food for breakfast and lunch.245 The students

were also treated to performances of Thai culture such as dance, also the art of fruit

and vegetable carving from a chef at the Ambassador's Residence. This approach is

necessary because People-to-people relations, especially among children and youth,

have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. relations.

244 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved

from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 245 Royal Thai Embasy, Washington D.C. (2014). Youth and Education. Embassy Adoption Program

(EAP) on Thai Food Day. Retrieved from http://thaiembdc.org/youth-and-education/

87

IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the

United States of America 2011 – 2014

Figure 4.3: Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer

Soft power often described as the ability to influence the preferences of others

to make other to want the same things the actor wants.246 According to Joseph S. Nye,

there are three sources of soft power, such as “culture, values and policies” that serve

as tools within the practice of public diplomacy.247 Public diplomacy mostly known

as the government’s effort in “winning the hearts and minds” of targeted public to

make them understand, support, and follow one’s policies, goals, cultural traditions or

246 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of

Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 247 Ibid.,

88

way of life.248 Tuch describes that public diplomacy is “a government’s process of

communicating with foreign publics in an attempt to bring about understanding for

its nation’s ideas and ideals, its institutions and cultures, as well as its national goals

and current policies.”249 Public diplomacy highlights the interactive communication,

public relations and cultural exchanges between fellow countrymen, foreigners and

global citizens.

Joseph Nye believes that a country's culture comprises a core component of a

country’s soft power if it is perceived attractive by others. Culture is a set of values

and practices that create meaning for society. This is what makes culture can be

utilized in the practice of diplomacy to engage with public, which then gave birth to

the term cultural diplomacy. According to Milton Cummings what is called as

cultural diplomacy refers to: “The exchange of ideas, information, art and other

aspects of culture among nations and their peoples in order to foster mutual

understanding’ in efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies

and point of view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.” 250 Cultural

diplomacy believes as a linchpin of public diplomacy because cultural activities have

the ability to demonstrate the identity of a nation. 251 Simultaneously, public

diplomacy helps to amplify and advertise a society and culture to the world at

large.252 In this connection, cultural diplomacy and public diplomacy become in line

to complement each other as a mean of mutual understanding.

248 Signitzer, B. (2013). Public Relations and Public Diplomacy: Some Conceptual

Explorations. Benno Signitzer, 205-218. Retrieved from https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-

3-531-90918-9_13 249 Hopkins, A. E. (2015). Government Public Relations: Public Diplomacy or Propaganda? Social

Science, Arts & Humanities Journal, 7(3). Retrieved from

http://www.inquiriesjournal.com/articles/1012/government-public-relations-public-diplomacy-or-

propaganda

250 C. Cummings, M. (2003). Cultural Diplomacy and the United States Government: A Survey. Center

for arts and culture. 251 https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 252 Carnes Lord, Losing Hearts and Minds?: Public Diplomacy and Strategic Influence in the Age of

Terror (Westport, CT: Praeger Security International, 2006), 15.

89

In conducting diplomacy, there are varieties of culture that can be utilized by

government to achieve its goals. Samuel Chapple-Sokol emphasize that cuisine, as a

part of a country’s culture, can be utilized as an instrument for creating cross-cultural

understanding aims to enhance interaction and cooperation.253 The use of a country’s

cuisine then also identic with the term gastrodiplomacy, which Rockower believed

that gastrodiplomacy is “using a country’s culinary delight as a way to conduct

public diplomacy and a way to raise nation-brand awareness”.254 Gastrodiplomacy

also refers to a method of governments in highlighting the unique agricultural,

culinary heritage, cultural traditions to build the reputation of a country through

promoting its national cuisine, which go in line with the concept of public diplomacy

as well as cultural diplomacy that also includes the involvement of non-state

actors.255

Thailand is famously known as the pioneer in the practice of gastrodiplomacy

where the government of Thailand has intentionally bolstered the presence of Thai

cuisine outside the country whose resulted can be felt today. The Royal Thai

government first launched the initiative in 2002 called "Global Thai" and “Kitchen of

the World” in 2003 to sponsor the establishment of hundreds of Thai restaurants to all

over the globe.256 Under Yingluck administration in 2011, Thai government launched

“Kitchen to the World” program. Thailand government intensively introduce and

promotes the unique of Thailand traditional food worldwide, and softly

communicates about taste, history, culture, and value. Such thing is done under

various of programs, from encouraging the establishment of Thailand restaurant

253 Sokol, S. C. (2013). The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8. Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to

Win Hearts and Minds, 161-183. 254 Rockower PS (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues & Studies,

47(1), 107–152. 255 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at

TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4

256 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php

90

abroad, regulating standard and criteria for authentic Thailand cuisine to be served in

restaurants, and appointing Cuisine Ambassador.

According to Paul Rockower, there are several characteristic of

gastrodiplomacy, which are:257 Communicate culinary culture with foreign public in

a broader way, more than high-level elites, enhancing nation brand through cultural

diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public towards

national cuisine culture, and transcends the realm of state-to-public communication

and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement. Thailand government in

conducting its gastrodiplomacy program, especially through the Kitchen to the World

program, has met those characteristic that justifies the effort of Thailand government

in promoting its cuisine is under the framework of gastrodiplomacy.

Basically, Thai government have met those characteristic when it decided to

promote Thai cuisine through quantitatively rising the number of Thai restaurant

abroad through the creating of Kitchen to the World program. Thai government seeks

to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine in order to introduce Thai culinary culture

abroad to educate the global communities. Through the Kitchen to the World program

the government wants to enhance Thai restaurant business worldwide and make it as

an informal embassy and information center to foreign public. The Thai government

also organizes extensive food promotion events such as the festival and advertisement

to attract a large number of people. Each event in the representative country also aims

to strengthen Thailand and other countries bilateral relations, especially at people-to-

people level.

Taking example from the implementation of Kitchen to the World in the

United States, The Thai government set up a restaurant in American cities and

suburbs. Now that the restaurants are opened, the government is concerned with

maintaining their quality and their value as export channels. The Government

257 Rockower,Paul 2014. “The State of Gastrodiplomacy” Public Diplomacy Magazine.

http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf

91

promotes Thai Select to ensure that the food served abroad is authentic as a

representation of Thai culture to the foreign community. The restaurants participate in

a large number of foreign public events such as cultural events, Thai Restaurant

Week aims to attract foreign interests to taste, know and love Thai cuisine. The Thai

Embassy also held a Thai Food Day at several public schools in the D.C. area by

engaging American students to expand their knowledge of Thailand culture.

Moreover, the Thai government's commitment in carrying out the gastrodiplomacy

strategy towards the US is getting stronger by appointing a Thai Cuisine Ambassador

and establishment of Thai schools and courses to spread a wider awareness of Thai

cuisine culture towards American. Arranging these kinds of agendas attracted a large

number of people to participate in Thai government’s gastrodiplomacy strategies.

As the gastrodiplomacy that conduct by Thai government show, several

impacts on the economic sector can be seen from the increase in Thai restaurant

demand and the growing popularity of the respective cuisine from Thailand as the

objectives of establishing the Kitchen to the Word program. This gastrodiplomacy

cannot be denied that the program has work because after the program declared the

restaurant becomes increasing every year. There are around 20,000 Thai restaurants

overseas, an impressive increase from more than 6,000 recorded in 2003. The United

States has almost 50 percent Thai restaurant of the whole world, there are 508 Thai

restaurants in 2011 and increased annually to more than 1,600 by 2017. As well as

the results shown after PM Yingluck administration promote the Thai Select

certification to ensure the authenticity and quality of Thai food. Since then the

number of Thai Select restaurant increased from roughly 81 in 2011 to more than 568

in 2017 that spread across the American cities and suburbs. The knowledge of the

cuisine culture of Thailand is definitely growing in the United States.

Thailand utilizes their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food

cultural heritage in the global stage. The government has leveraging of unique

medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through cultural events that

92

highlights the Thai cuisine culture. Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and

events, Thailand offers to foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture.

Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power is connected, and

the gastrodiplomacy into the wider fields of cultural and public diplomacy of

Thailand.

Based on the data and information served and analyzed in this research,

Thailand utilize their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food cultural

heritage in the global stage especially in the United States. The government has

leveraging of unique medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through

cultural events that highlights the Thai cuisine culture through various initiatives that

have been done under the Kitchen to The World program in the United States,

starting from the conduct of Thai Select certification, appointment of cuisine

ambassadors, cooking school and courses, variety of activities and events conducted

to promote Thai cuisine has contribute to the rising number of Thai restaurant in the

country.

Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and events, Thailand offers to

foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture. In this case, the Thai

government used the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice.

First, an overseas Thai restaurant is America's first place to know and learn about

Thai culture. Second, the government set a strategy on how to bring Thai atmosphere

into a restaurant abroad such as service, decoration and architecture. Third, through

the "Thai Select" program it is certain that the Thai dishes presented to the American

is authentic as it is served in Thailand so that foreign customers will also get the real

experience in Thai cuisine. In the end, through the establishment of cooking schools

and courses as well as promotional activities resulted in the sharing of ideas as a way

to promote better understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.

Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power, public

diplomacy and cultural diplomacy are connected. Such thing justified that the

93

implementation of Kitchen to The World program in the United States have met the

objective of the country’s gastrodiplomacy as well as the objective of the program

itself, because, it can be assumed that the implementation of the program was

successful.

94

CHAPTER V

CONCLUSION

It is important for a country to highlight its strengths in order to build a

stronger identity and competitiveness in the global stage. Thai cuisine has become a

pride for the nation, perceived as a culture and handed down from generation to

generation. Thailand has a strong basic to conduct what is called as gastrodiplomacy,

through the excellence of unique taste, positive perception of foreign audiences on

its authentic food. Thai cuisine offers healthy food trends that is full of cultural

values exist in every dishes. To achieve its campaign to become the "World’s

Kitchen", Thai government then took the initiative to practice gastrodiplomacy

program.

The existence of Thai cuisine in the global market is a long process involving

various actors that interacting on different levels. Initiated by the Thai government,

the first gastrodiplomacy program was conceptualized in 2002 titled Global Thai and

Kitchen of the World in 2003 to increase the establishment number of Thai

restaurants abroad. Thai food and cuisine has grown in popularity, but the problem is

that Thai food served abroad has been distorted. This will certainly affect Thailand's

reputation and cultural identity. As a continuation and program development from

the previous leadership, Prime Minister Yingluck launched Kitchen of the World in

2011 aims not only to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine through increasing the

quantity of Thai restaurants abroad, but also to promote foreign public awareness of

authentic Thai culture by highlighting the authentic Thai cuisine.

The Thai government emphasizes the promotion of an authentic Thai cuisine

culture by encouraging standardization and quality control by labeling "The Select"

to qualify Thai restaurants abroad. This program is a real effort from the government

in preparing Thai cuisine to be able to compete on the global stage. In addition, it

95

can be analyzed from the gastrodiplomacy strategy in Thailand, the government has

always been actively involved and play a strong role in promoting Thai cuisine

abroad, as well as how to ensure that the Thai national cuisine spread in all the

restaurants in many countries around the world is a truly authentic as in Thailand.

Thailand government have been continuously implement the Kitchen to the

World program as Thailand gastrodiplomacy in various countries all around the

world, including the United States. The Thai government has a strong reason to run

its gastrodiplomacy in the US since the relationship between Thailand and the US

has long been established. Moreover, the need of diet eating habit and strong cultural

diversity in the US advances the popularity Thai cuisine. The role of the government

in devising a strategy of gastrodiplomacy to introduce Thai cuisine has been done in

various ways. Thai government intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine

abroad through the establishment of Thai restaurants with the real Thailand's high

standard of service and tastes to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's

existence and the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its

prominence on the cultural and diplomatic stages. Thai government in the United

States has several additional agendas to promote Kitchen to the World program in

this country by involving restaurateurs and diaspora chefs such as several

international cultural and food festivals, appointment Thai Cuisine Tour by Thai

Cuisine Ambassador, Thai cooking school and courses and Thai Restaurant Week

which attracts huge number of foreign public in America to share ideas and improve

mutual understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.

In this research, the writer has seen the strategy of The Thai government used

the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice. Every year since the

implementation of Kitchen to the World, Thai restaurants have increased

significantly, as well as Thai Select restaurants. Of the number of Thai restaurants in

the world, the US has almost half of the total. The number of Thai restaurant

requests in America proves that the program is going well and the popularity of

96

authentic Thai cuisine is increasing as well as Thailand's position on the global

stage. In terms of gastrodiplomacy, Thailand is known as one of the world's best

practices seen from its phenomenal achievements.

97

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APPENDICES

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APPENDIX II. Transcript of Interview with Royal Thai Consulate-

General for Los Angeles March 26th, 2018

Interviewer : Nisrini Khairani

Interviewee : Gena Saranya Thangsattayapirom, Information Social and

Culture of Royal Thai Consulate-General for Los Angeles

Nisrini : What is Thai Kitchen to the World Program?

Gena : “Kitchen to the World” is the Thai Government’s policy to promote Thai

food and Thai agricultural products to international markets and consumers.

Since the food industry is very important to the Thai economy.

Conceptualized in 2002 under PM Thaksin Sinawatra. This policy is made

into a very broad program focus, essentially we want to promote Thai food

and agricultural products. The program has also been developed and

renamed under different governments, such as Global Thai, Kitchen of the

World or Thai Cuisine to the World, Kitchen to the World and the latest is

the development between Kitchen to the world and 4.0 in technology-based

agriculture. The most recent version is the 2016 – 2021 Kitchen of the World

Strategy, under PM Prayuth Chan-o-cha.

Nisrini : What distinguishes one program from another?

Gena : Actually the programs have the same objectives, but the government also

conducts research and supervision, therefore government always do the

development, as we improve our focus and strategy. This was partly due to

the changes as the ruling party / administration changed – the old

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administration left and the new one came in – which also caused a shifting in

policy objectives as a whole (not just trade promotion related) from the

administration that came before.

Nisrini : Is there any organizational structure or committee in the kitchen to the world

since this policy run in parallel by various governments department?

Gena : The implementation of Kitchen of the World Strategy is a collaboration

between various Thai agencies, both inside and outside the country.

Domestic agencies include National Economics and Social Development

Board (NESDB), Ministry of Commerce, Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry

of Industry, Ministry of Labor, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), etc.

Overseas agencies include the Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade

Centers), TAT Offices, the Offices of Agricultural Affairs, and the Royal

Thai Embassies and Consulates-General around the world. Each agency has

its own budgets and runs its own programs, but still answer to the same

“supervisor,” the Thai Cabinet. Nevertheless, sometimes, there are joint

projects among various agencies.

Nisrini : How about the program under the former Prime Minister Yingluck

Shinawatra Kitchen to the World? What makes this series of programs

considered the strategy of Thai Gastrodiplomacy?

Gena : Prime Minister Yingluck launched the Kitchen to the World program at the

beginning of her leadership in 2011 to boost trade and investment while

promoting safety food awareness. Of course this is part of the Thai public

diplomacy, Thailand gastrodiplomacy in Kitchen to The World project helps

the promotion of Thailand diverse culture and its cuisine in U.S. to enhance

Thailand reputation, you cant found it in other countries. There are thousands

of Thai restaurants abroad, each of them are unofficial embassy. Restaurant

is our weapon, while the food and cooking talent is ammunition. The

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restaurant has become a strategy as well as objective, it aims to attract the

attention of foreign public towards Thailand. Actually the establishment of

restaurants abroad has been done since 2002 under the Global Thai program.

PM Yingluck’s program develops to improve the quality of food by creating

new image of Thai food. Authenticity and quality assurance is in line with

the needs of consumers in the global stage, and Thai food industry is in

competition. The government uses “Thai Select” as a supervisor, this is to

ensure that Thai food served to foreign public is authentic as in Thailand, it

is very important for our culture. This program is under the commerce

ministry, you can directly visit the website under Ministry of Commerce

government agency.

Nisrini : In promoting the Kitchen to the World program, how is the role of the

foreign ministry or the Thai government abroad?

Gena : Since 2002, the Royal Thai Embassy and Consulates-General in the U.S.

have undertaken various projects to promote Kitchen to the World Strategy.

Examples are an organization of Thai cooking demonstration (shows and

classes), cultural event, Thai Restaurant Festival and in-store promotion

events to promote Thai ingredients. There are official reports on these

projects, but they are in Thai language, and mostly for internal use. You can

also find PR in the United States of America Royal Embassy and Consulates-

General in the U.S., but unfortunately it is limited to documents.

Nisrini : How many Thai restaurant or Thai Select restaurant in the United States?

How was the growth?

Gena : The number of Thai restaurants in the U.S., regardless of the nationalities of

the owners, can fluctuate due to the economic situations. The U.S. agency

who may have the exact number is the Internal Revenue Service (IRS).

Certainly the increase in the number of restaurants here is very significant,

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Americans are enthusiastic with the presence of Thai restaurants, I think the

ethnic restaurant market here is very popular, especially for Asian cuisine.

As for the Thai Select restaurants abroad, the agencies responsible are the

Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade Centers) in the U.S. and the

Department of International Trade Promotion, Ministry of Commerce in

Thailand. You might want to check out their websites.

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APPENDIX III. Eligibelity of Thai Select Badge

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Thailand’s gastrodiplomacy program also supported by the blue print presented in

the form of an e-book on Thai Kitchen of The World that can be accessed directly in

the official website of Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department,

Thailand.

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APPENDIX V. Financial Loan for Thai Restaurant Establishment