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www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk A long-distance walking route using fenland rights of way linking the historic centres of Ely and Peterborough The Hereward Way F or always, from the foot of the wolds, the green flat stretched away, illimitable, to an horizon where, from the roundness of the earth, the distant trees and islands were hulled down like ships at sea. The firm horse-fen lay, bright green, along the foot of the wold; beyond it, the browner peat, or deep fen; and amongst that, dark velvet alder beds, long line of reed-round, emerald in spring; and golden under autumn sun; shining ‘eas’ or river reaches; broad metes dotted with a million fowl, while the cattle waded along their edges after the rich sedge-grass, or wallowed in the mire through the hot summer’s day. Here and there, too, upon the far horizon, rose a tall line of ashen trees, marking some island of firm rich soil. In some of them the huge ashes had disappeared before the axes of the monks; and a minster tower rose over the fen, amid orchards, gardens, cornfields, pastures, with here and there a tree left standing for shade. ‘Painted with flowers in the spring’ with ‘pleasant shores embosemed in still lakes’ as the monk-chronicler of Ramsey has it, those islands seemed to such as the monk terrestrial paradises. Overhead the arch of heaven spread more ample than elsewhere. Hereward the Wake by Charles Kingsley T he Hereward Way Long Distance Footpath runs for 110 miles between Oakham in Rutland and Thetford in Norfolk. The fenland section runs for 43 miles through some of the lowest land in England, providing an unique walking experience. Probably one of the most engineered landscapes in the country, this area has an ancient and tangible history of flooding, island communities, drainage and agricultural improvement. This walk is readily accessible by public transport. Fenland towns offer good accommodation and refreshment for the traveller. The route is signposted from the roadside, with all the signs bearing the logo or name ‘Hereward Way’. Changes of direction away from the road are marked with yellow waymarks. This leaflet provides Ordnance Survey mapping of the whole route at a scale of 1:25000, from Ordnance Survey Explorer sheets 227 and 228 Hereward the Wake was an outlawed English nobleman who, in 1071, made a final stand against William the Conquerer on the Isle of Ely. As the Normans lay siege to the island, Hereward gathered together the English barons at Ely, protected by the surrounding marsh. He held out for eight years before the Normans finally took his stronghold and Hereward vanished with his men into the marsh. Today his name is given to a long-distance footpath across the land he knew, following both ancient track through the Cambridgeshire Fens. The landscape is now quite different from that Hereward knew, but is still an exhilarating wilderness of big skies, beautiful sunsets and absolute tranquillity. Public footpaths link the Hereward Way from Peterborough to join the Viking Way at Oakham, and from Ely to the southern end of the Peddars Way near Thetford. The Hereward Way also links into two circular walks published by Cambridgeshire County Council, the Bishops Way at Ely and the Woodmans Way at March. Leaflets are available at libraries, TICs and at the County Council website www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/ countrysideandrights T he fenland section of the Hereward Way starts in Peterborough, only one mile from the railway station. The City has strong associations with Hereward the Wake who is said to have ransacked, robbed and burnt to the ground the old cathedral of Peterborough, thus making himself an outlaw and vagabond. From the Old Customs House and the Key Theatre, the Hereward Way follows the River Nene out past the rowing course into the fens. The willows which line the banks in Peterborough occur frequently over the 43 miles of the route and are native to this area. Willow and alder both tolerate wet conditions and would have covered large areas of fenland marsh in Hereward’s time. Beyond Peterborough, the Hereward Way continues along raised embankments. Good views across the washland between the Nene and Moreton’s Leam (dug in the 15th century) are seen in the distance. Lying to the north of Whittlesey, the Nene Washes comprise a large area of open land created as a result of the drainage of the surrounding fenland for agriculture in the 17th and18th centuries. The land serves as the flood storage area for the River Nene. The combination of grassland and the wetness make the Washes a great place for wildlife. Important numbers of wildfowl winter here including Bewick swans from Russia and Whooper swans from Iceland. The washes are some of the best floodplain meadows left in England and support a significant proportion of the country’s nesting black-tailed godwit and snipe. When the floodwaters freeze, this is a popular area for ice skating. In summer the washland is populated by grazing cattle and herons amongst meadows and ditches filled with lush and colourful wetland plants. At the Dog in a Doublet sluice the Hereward Way crosses the washland south into Whittlesey. The sluice controls the flow of water to and from Peterborough. Beyond the sluice gates the Nene becomes a tidal river though still 20 miles from the sea outfall at Sutton Bridge in Lincolnshire. The market town of Whittlesey with the spire of St Mary’ Church rising 150 feet into the fenland sky welcomes walkers with many opportunities for refreshment and a railway station. W hittlesey was historically an island of dry ground surrounded by marshy fen, its name deriving from Whittle’s Ea. Ea is the Anglo-Saxon for ‘island’. The town has a long history. Bronze age settlers built a kilometre-long timber causeway across the marsh between Whittlesey island and Peterborough island (remains of which can still be seen at the nearby Flag Fen centre). The Romans built a raised gravel road through the marsh north of Whittlesey (the Fen Causeway).The town is mentioned, as Whitesig, in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle. Lines of willows can again be seen on the approach roads to the town. The road from the Dog in a Doublet sluice across the washland occasionally floods and for this reason a raised bank with duck-board bridges is provided for pedestrians. Gaps have to be left in the raised walkway to allow water to flow underneath. The rivers and waterways which dominate the landscape through which the Hereward Way passes were important in transporting produce into and between the towns. Many of the public rights of way which run alongside watercourses owe their origins to the use of the tow paths by horses towing barges of goods across the fens. In Whittlesey the Hereward Way follows the Briggate River, where a handsome pair of lock gates can be seen. To the east of the town, at Anglebridge, the route crosses two waterways, the Whittlesey Dyke or Sixteen Foot River and Bevill’s Leam, or the Twenty Foot River (so-called because of their original widths). In Hereward’s time, before the construction of these artificial waterways, travellers would use stilts to cross the marsh between meandering streams and rivers. B y the time the Hereward Way rejoins the River Nene in March, the walker really is in the heart of the Cambridgeshire Fens. Here you can see some of the more highly mechanised farming methods in England. Large machinery cultivates thousands of acres of highly productive land. This land has always been productive but the food Hereward got from the land was very different from that of today. The marsh and meres were full of fish, eels and birds. Fenmen used punts (such as those seen in Cambridge) to hunt wildfowl in the marsh. Punts slide easily between reed beds without disturbing the birds. Although this unique way of life has gone and has been replaced with the specialised farming of today, the fen is still a remote and tranquil land. The visitor centre at the Wildfowl and Wetland Trust Welney centre, aswell as welcoming walkers to its restaurant, has an interesting display about the old fenland way of life. Sitting resolutely on its clay island in the fens is the market town of March. The Hereward Way follows the river past traditional fenland houses along West End up to the Clock Tower in the Market Square. The river originally flowed around the clay island, but to ensure that it could carry boats into the town a new channel was cut through the clay to divert the river. The oldest part of March lies to the south of the river where the 15th century church of St Wendreda stands. On the way to St Wendreda’s you will pass a stone cross dating from about 1450. It was probably used by friars as a preaching stone. These were usually replaced by butter or wool crosses as trading grew in importance. From March the Hereward Way goes easterly roughly following the line of the Fen Causeway. This Roman route through the Fens was carried on bundles of brushwood and can still be traced in crop patterns. W elney marks the centre of the Bedford Levels, the generic name for the area of land drained by the Old and New Bedford rivers. These two huge drainage channels were cut in the mid- seventeenth century by the Dutchman Cornelius Vermuyden who was contracted by a group of investors headed by the Duke of Bedford. The Levels receive floodwater from Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire aswell as the water pumped out of the Cambridgeshire fens. The Washes, the land between the two Bedford rivers, act as a huge inland reservoir in the winter, holding water from land at or below sea level. The very shallow gradients of this landscape mean that water cannot flow quickly out to sea and would flood all the fens if it were not contained between the massive floodbanks seen at the Washes at Welney. The flooding produced in the winter creates an internationally important wintering site for migratory birds, especially Bewick and Whooper Swans aswell as many species of duck. As floodwater recedes in the spring waders such as black-tailed Godwit, Snipe and Redshank come in to breed. As one of the most important wetland sites in Europe the Washes are protected under international conventions. The Hereward Way continues along the top of the flood banks from Welney towards Ely. From here you can see the unique landscape, the intensive arable fen, a pumping station built in 1830 and Ely Cathedral in the distance. This section of the walk really illustrates what the fens are all about, bringing alive a history spanning hundreds of year of man’s involvement on the land. Ely Cathedral, the ‘Ship of the Fens’, marks the end of the Cambridgeshire section of the Hereward Way. Ely, a former island, gave refuge to Hereward and today gives a warm welcome to the weary traveller. We recommend you stay a while to enjoy the delight of this Cathedral City. Extra information Based upon the Ordnance Survey mapping with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office © Crown. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. Cambridgeshire County Council Licence number LA 07649X This leaflet is one of a series produced by Cambridgeshire County Council to encourage the use and enjoyment of some of the many public rights of way in Cambridgeshire. We hope you have enjoyed the walks and would appreciate any comments you may have. Public Rights of Way and Access, Box CC1305, Environment Services, Cambridgeshire County Council, Castle Court, Castle Hill, Cambridge, CB3 0AP Tel 0345 045 5212 www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/ countrysideandrights © Cambridgeshire County Council. Published XX 201X. 3rd Edition. Artwork by 2dgraphic.com Follow the country code – why? Because the countryside is a place to be enjoyed by all; do protect wildlife, plants and trees, don’t leave rubbish behind don’t disturb others with unnecessary noise. Because the countryside is a place of work; do keep to paths and use stiles and gates to cross boundaries; don’t let your dogs disturb stock and don’t interfere with crops or machines. Enjoying the countryside means respecting its life and work. If you don’t, you won’t! Access for all The Cambridgeshire countryside is there to be enjoyed by EVERYONE. This route follows grassy droves which although muddy in winter are firm if uneven underfoot in summer. There are no stiles and access to sections of the route from the road is good. More information about other Access for All walks is available on the Cambridgeshire County Council website at www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/ countrysideandrights Come and enjoy it How to get there By bus Stagecoach in Peterborough 01733 554575 Stagecoach in Cambridge 01223 423578 By train Stations in Peterborough, Whittlesey, March and Ely National Rail Inquiries 08457 484950 Inquiries Cambridgeshire County Council Passenger Transport Inquiries tel. 0345 045 0675 The Hereward Way Peterborough to Ely 43 miles Peterborough to Whittlesey 8 miles Whittlesey to March 11 miles March to Welney 12 miles Welney to Ely 12 miles

The Hereward Way F - Fenland Tourism...away, illimitable, to an horizon where, from the roundness of the earth, the distant trees and islands were hulled down like ships at sea. The

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Page 1: The Hereward Way F - Fenland Tourism...away, illimitable, to an horizon where, from the roundness of the earth, the distant trees and islands were hulled down like ships at sea. The

www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk

A long-distance walking route using fenland rights of waylinking the historic centres of Ely and Peterborough

The Hereward Way For always, from the foot of the wolds, the green flat stretched

away, illimitable, to an horizon where, from the roundness of

the earth, the distant trees and islands were hulled down like ships

at sea.

The firm horse-fen lay, bright green, along the foot of the wold;

beyond it, the browner peat, or deep fen; and amongst that, dark

velvet alder beds, long line of reed-round, emerald in spring; and

golden under autumn sun; shining ‘eas’ or river reaches; broad

metes dotted with a million fowl, while the cattle waded along their

edges after the rich sedge-grass, or wallowed in the mire through

the hot summer’s day.

Here and there, too, upon the far horizon, rose a tall line of ashen

trees, marking some island of firm rich soil. In some of them the

huge ashes had disappeared before the axes of the monks; and a

minster tower rose over the fen, amid orchards, gardens, cornfields,

pastures, with here and there a tree left standing for shade.

‘Painted with flowers in the spring’ with ‘pleasant shores

embosemed in still lakes’ as the monk-chronicler of Ramsey has

it, those islands seemed to such as the monk terrestrial

paradises. Overhead the arch of heaven spread

more ample than elsewhere.

Hereward the Wakeby Charles Kingsley

The Hereward Way Long Distance Footpathruns for 110 miles between Oakham in

Rutland and Thetford in Norfolk. The fenlandsection runs for 43 miles through some of thelowest land in England, providing an uniquewalking experience. Probably one of the mostengineered landscapes in the country, this areahas an ancient and tangible history of flooding,island communities, drainage and agriculturalimprovement. This walk is readily accessible bypublic transport. Fenland towns offer goodaccommodation and refreshment for the traveller.

The route is signposted from the roadside, withall the signs bearing the logo or name ‘HerewardWay’. Changes of direction away from the roadare marked with yellow waymarks. This leafletprovides Ordnance Survey mapping of the wholeroute at a scale of 1:25000, from OrdnanceSurvey Explorer sheets 227 and 228

Hereward the Wake was an outlawed Englishnobleman who, in 1071, made a final standagainst William the Conquerer on the Isle of Ely.As the Normans lay siege to the island,

Hereward gathered together the English baronsat Ely, protected by the surrounding marsh. Heheld out for eight years before the Normansfinally took his stronghold and Herewardvanished with his men into the marsh.

Today his name is given to a long-distancefootpath across the land he knew, following bothancient track through the Cambridgeshire Fens.The landscape is now quite different from thatHereward knew, but is still an exhilaratingwilderness of big skies, beautiful sunsets andabsolute tranquillity.

Public footpaths link the Hereward Way fromPeterborough to join the Viking Way at Oakham,and from Ely to the southern end of the PeddarsWay near Thetford. The Hereward Way also links into two circular walks published byCambridgeshire County Council, the Bishops Wayat Ely and the Woodmans Way at March. Leafletsare available at libraries, TICs and at the CountyCouncil website

www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/countrysideandrights

The fenland section of the Hereward Waystarts in Peterborough, only one mile from

the railway station. The City has strongassociations with Hereward the Wake who is saidto have ransacked, robbed and burnt to theground the old cathedral of Peterborough, thusmaking himself an outlaw and vagabond.

From the Old Customs House and the KeyTheatre, the Hereward Way follows the RiverNene out past the rowing course into the fens.The willows which line the banks in Peterboroughoccur frequently over the 43 miles of the routeand are native to this area. Willow and alder bothtolerate wet conditions and would have coveredlarge areas of fenland marsh in Hereward’s time.

Beyond Peterborough, the Hereward Waycontinues along raised embankments. Goodviews across the washland between the Neneand Moreton’s Leam (dug in the 15th century)are seen in the distance. Lying to the north ofWhittlesey, the Nene Washes comprise a largearea of open land created as a result of thedrainage of the surrounding fenland foragriculture in the 17th and18th centuries. Theland serves as the flood storage area for theRiver Nene. The combination of grassland andthe wetness make the Washes a great place forwildlife. Important numbers of wildfowl winterhere including Bewick swans from Russia andWhooper swans from Iceland. The washes are

some of the best floodplain meadows left inEngland and support a significant proportion ofthe country’s nesting black-tailed godwit andsnipe. When the floodwaters freeze, this is apopular area for ice skating.

In summer the washland is populated by grazingcattle and herons amongst meadows and ditchesfilled with lush and colourful wetland plants.

At the Dog in a Doublet sluice the Hereward Waycrosses the washland south into Whittlesey. Thesluice controls the flow of water to and fromPeterborough. Beyond the sluice gates the Nenebecomes a tidal river though still 20 miles fromthe sea outfall at Sutton Bridge in Lincolnshire.The market town of Whittlesey with the spire ofSt Mary’ Church rising 150 feet into the fenlandsky welcomes walkers with many opportunitiesfor refreshment and a railway station.

Whittlesey was historically an island of dryground surrounded by marshy fen, its name

deriving from Whittle’s Ea. Ea is the Anglo-Saxonfor ‘island’. The town has a long history. Bronzeage settlers built a kilometre-long timbercauseway across the marsh between Whittleseyisland and Peterborough island (remains of whichcan still be seen at the nearby Flag Fen centre).The Romans built a raised gravel road throughthe marsh north of Whittlesey (the FenCauseway).The town is mentioned, as Whitesig,in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle.

Lines of willows can again be seen on theapproach roads to the town. The road from theDog in a Doublet sluice across the washlandoccasionally floods and for this reason a raisedbank with duck-board bridges is provided forpedestrians. Gaps have to be left in the raisedwalkway to allow water to flow underneath.

The rivers and waterways which dominate thelandscape through which the Hereward Waypasses were important in transporting produceinto and between the towns. Many of the publicrights of way which run alongside watercourses

owe their origins to the use of the tow paths byhorses towing barges of goods across the fens.In Whittlesey the Hereward Way follows theBriggate River, where a handsome pair of lockgates can be seen. To the east of the town, atAnglebridge, the route crosses two waterways,the Whittlesey Dyke or Sixteen Foot River andBevill’s Leam, or the Twenty Foot River (so-calledbecause of their original widths). In Hereward’stime, before the construction of these artificialwaterways, travellers would use stilts to cross themarsh between meandering streams and rivers.

By the time the Hereward Way rejoins the RiverNene in March, the walker really is in the

heart of the Cambridgeshire Fens. Here you cansee some of the more highly mechanised farmingmethods in England. Large machinery cultivatesthousands of acres of highly productive land. Thisland has always been productive but the foodHereward got from the land was very differentfrom that of today. The marsh and meres werefull of fish, eels and birds. Fenmen used punts(such as those seen in Cambridge) to huntwildfowl in the marsh. Punts slide easily betweenreed beds without disturbing the birds. Althoughthis unique way of life has gone and has beenreplaced with the specialised farming of today,the fen is still a remote and tranquil land. Thevisitor centre at the Wildfowl and Wetland TrustWelney centre, aswell as welcoming walkers toits restaurant, has an interesting display aboutthe old fenland way of life.

Sitting resolutely on its clay island in the fens isthe market town of March. The Hereward Wayfollows the river past traditional fenland housesalong West End up to the Clock Tower in theMarket Square. The river originally flowed aroundthe clay island, but to ensure that it could carryboats into the town a new channel was cutthrough the clay to divert the river.

The oldest part of March lies to the south of theriver where the 15th century church of StWendreda stands. On the way to St Wendreda’syou will pass a stone cross dating from about1450. It was probably used by friars as apreaching stone. These were usually replaced bybutter or wool crosses as trading grew inimportance.

From March the Hereward Way goes easterlyroughly following the line of the Fen Causeway.This Roman route through the Fens was carriedon bundles of brushwood and can still be tracedin crop patterns.

Welney marks the centre of the BedfordLevels, the generic name for the area of

land drained by the Old and New Bedford rivers.These two huge drainage channels were cut inthe mid- seventeenth century by the DutchmanCornelius Vermuyden who was contracted by agroup of investors headed by the Duke ofBedford. The Levels receive floodwater fromBedfordshire and Buckinghamshire aswell as thewater pumped out of the Cambridgeshire fens.The Washes, the land between the two Bedfordrivers, act as a huge inland reservoir in thewinter, holding water from land at or below sealevel. The very shallow gradients of thislandscape mean that water cannot flow quicklyout to sea and would flood all the fens if it werenot contained between the massive floodbanksseen at the Washes at Welney.

The flooding produced in the winter creates aninternationally important wintering site formigratory birds, especially Bewick and WhooperSwans aswell as many species of duck. Asfloodwater recedes in the spring waders such asblack-tailed Godwit, Snipe and Redshank come into breed. As one of the most important wetlandsites in Europe the Washes are protected underinternational conventions.

The Hereward Way continues along the top ofthe flood banks from Welney towards Ely. Fromhere you can see the unique landscape, theintensive arable fen, a pumping station built in1830 and Ely Cathedral in the distance. Thissection of the walk really illustrates what thefens are all about, bringing alive a historyspanning hundreds of year of man’s involvementon the land.

Ely Cathedral, the ‘Ship of the Fens’, marks theend of the Cambridgeshire section of theHereward Way. Ely, a former island, gave refugeto Hereward and today gives a warm welcome tothe weary traveller. We recommend you stay awhile to enjoy the delight of this Cathedral City.

Extra informationBased upon the Ordnance Survey mapping withthe permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’sStationery Office © Crown. Unauthorisedreproduction infringes Crown copyright and maylead to prosecution or civil proceedings.Cambridgeshire County Council Licence numberLA 07649X

This leaflet is one of a series produced byCambridgeshire County Council to encourage theuse and enjoyment of some of the many publicrights of way in Cambridgeshire. We hope youhave enjoyed the walks and would appreciateany comments you may have.

Public Rights of Way and Access, Box CC1305,Environment Services, Cambridgeshire CountyCouncil, Castle Court, Castle Hill, Cambridge,CB3 0AP Tel 0345 045 5212

www.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/countrysideandrights

© Cambridgeshire County Council. Published XX201X. 3rd Edition. Artwork by 2dgraphic.com

Follow the country code – why?Because the countryside is a place to beenjoyed by all; do protect wildlife, plants andtrees, don’t leave rubbish behind don’t disturbothers with unnecessary noise.

Because the countryside is a place of work; dokeep to paths and use stiles and gates to crossboundaries; don’t let your dogs disturb stockand don’t interfere with crops or machines.

Enjoying the countryside means respecting itslife and work. If you don’t, you won’t!

Access for allThe Cambridgeshire countryside is there to beenjoyed by EVERYONE. This route follows grassydroves which although muddy in winter are firm ifuneven underfoot in summer. There are no stilesand access to sections of the route from theroad is good. More information about otherAccess for All walks is available on theCambridgeshire County Council website atwww.cambridgeshire.gov.uk/environment/countrysideandrights

Come and enjoy it

How to get thereBy bus

Stagecoach in Peterborough 01733 554575

Stagecoach in Cambridge 01223 423578

By train

Stations in Peterborough, Whittlesey, March and Ely

National Rail Inquiries 08457 484950

Inquiries

Cambridgeshire County Council Passenger Transport Inquiries tel. 0345 045 0675

The Hereward Way

Peterborough to Ely43 miles

Peterborough to Whittlesey8 milesWhittlesey to March11 milesMarch to Welney12 milesWelney to Ely12 miles

Page 2: The Hereward Way F - Fenland Tourism...away, illimitable, to an horizon where, from the roundness of the earth, the distant trees and islands were hulled down like ships at sea. The

Brickworks

Site oflake settlement

A1139

A1139

A605

A605

A605A141

A1101

A1101

A10

A142

Whittlesey Way

A141

WWTVisitorCentre

Peterborough

Whittlesey

Turves

Christchurch

WelneyMarch

Little Downham

Ely

River Nene

Morton’s Leam

Twent

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Sixt

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PeterboroughCathedral

ElyCathedral

Cawdle Way

Bishop’s Way

Woodsman’s Way

ElyCathedral

Forehill

Back hill

PalaceGreen

River

side

River

Ous

e

Broa

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reet

Shoppingarea

RailwayStation

West Fen Road

EgremontStreet

Downham Road

Barton Road

Lynn

Roa

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Barton R

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RailwayStation

PeterboroughCathedral

KeyTheatre

Shoppingarea

ToWhittlesey

ToLittle

Downham

River Nene

Cowgate

Bridge Street

Westgate

Broa

dway

Midgate

Bishops Road

RivergateCentre

Ely City Centre

Peterborough City Centre

Bourges Boulevard

Cambridge Road

Prickwillow Road