The Garden Spade - University of Missouriextension.missouri.edu/butler/documents/mg/Garden... · The Garden Spade however they are well aware of the damage caused to lawns and ornamental

How To Contro l Moles

b y B r a d F r e s e n b u r g , E x t e n s i o n T u r f g r a s s S p e c i a l i s t

In this issue:

How To Control

Moles

1,

2, 6

April Gardening

Calendar

3

Easy Varieties For

Beginning

Gardeners

3

Plant Families -

Catalpa Family

4

Pest of the Month 5

Organic Pesticide:

Spinosad

5

Missouri Urban

Trees

6

Myth “Organic =

No Spray”

7

Drying Flowers 8

Upcoming Events 9

Editor’s Corner 10

A monthly gardening publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions

April 2015

The Garden Spade

however they are well aware of the

damage caused to lawns and

ornamental beds. Mounds of soil

(molehills) and surface tunnels (feeding

runways) are the common signs of

mole presence. Learning to use

repellents, traps,

and baits and

making use of a

broom handle or

similar stick can

greatly reduce mole

activity in as little as

three hours. The

following

information will

provide you the

most efficient

methods of mole

control.

Moles live most of their life

underground and are highly specialized

animals for their subterranean way of

life. The Eastern Mole is a small, sturdy

animal, 5 ½ to 8 inches long, with a

somewhat cylindrical body and

elongated head. The Eastern Mole is

grayish-brown on the back to pale or

more brown on the belly. Their

velvety fur often has a silvery sheen.

Occasionally bright orange or

cinnamon-yellow marking will occur.

Their fleshy snout serves as a highly

sensitive organ of touch and smell to

seek out numerous food sources.

University of Missouri, Lincoln

University, U.S. Department of

Agriculture & Local University

Extension Councils Cooperating

equal opportunity/ADA

institutions

Will they ever go away? It seems much

worse this year than ever before and

with the mild winter; did they ever

hibernate? Most individuals will say,

“No”. Feeding runways were observed

being pushed up even under what snow

we did get. As long

as the soil remains

wet and unfrozen,

we will see activity.

Many turfgrass

managers, gardeners

and homeowners

feel that the

presence of moles is

due to the presence

of white grubs.

Their first reaction

is to apply a grub

insecticide when mole activity begins in

spring. While moles do feed on white

grubs, grubs are not present at this

time of year (late winter to early

spring). Their primary food source is

earthworms and many grub insecticides

applied now, are known to reduce

beneficial earthworm populations up to

70%. Mole activity decreases due only

to the depletion of their primary food

source, so they leave the area. In time,

earthworms and moles will return.

Therefore, grub insecticides should not

be used for mole control.

Most people have never seen a mole;

Moles will feed and rest on two-hour cycles daily in

search of earthworms and other insects. This high

activity makes trapping and baiting effective

methods for mole control. The key to successful

trapping and baiting is locating active feeding

runways.

The Garden Spade Page 2

Secondar y Stor y Head l ine

Their tiny eyes are concealed in fur and covered by

fused eyelids; sight is limited to distinguishing light

from dark. The greatly enlarged front feet are

normally held with the soles vertical and pointing

outward. They possess well-

developed claws that have a

specialized bone attached to the

wrist, which aids in digging.

Moles construct networks of

tunnels in the soil surface. Many

of these are built after rains when

the mole is in search of new

sources of food and are usually

not re-used from day to day.

Digging of surface tunnels normally proceeds at a

rate of 1 foot per minute. They tend to feed and

rest on two-hour cycles, 24 hours a day. They are

carnivores and living organisms constitute about 85

percent of their diet. This

includes earthworms (their main

source of water) and grubs,

primarily; however millipedes,

centipedes, spiders, sow bugs,

snails and slugs are taken in

considerable amounts. Moles are

insatiable eaters and can consume

70 to 80 percent of their body

weight daily. Moles generally

move up or down within the soil

profile to follow food sources

such as earthworms, which move

with soil moisture.

Moles also create mounds (called

molehills) of soil in the lawn by

pushing up soil developing deeper, permanent

tunnels and nesting cavities. Mating occurs in the

spring with a single annual litter of 2 to 5 young

being produced in March, April or the first week of

May. High infestations consist of 2 to 3 moles per

acre.



Repellents usually contain castor bean oil as the

active ingredient. Repellents need to be applied on

a regular basis as a spray or granular application.

They can be effective if application rates, frequency

and techniques are strictly followed

according to the label. Several

brands of mole repellents include

Chase, Liquid Fence, Molemax, Mole

Out, Mole Scram, and Scoot Mole.

Trapping and baiting become the

best methods for mole control due

to the feeding habits of moles. Their

frequent feeding activity allows for

effective trapping and baiting in just

a few hours. The following steps will increase your

success for controlling moles:

1. Use of a broom handle or similar stick to poke

holes through the top of feeding tunnels at random

throughout the tunnel

network.

2. Re-visit those holes in

two to three hours and

inspect. A hole re-plugged

with soil indicates a mole

passed through that feeding

tunnel making it an active

feeding tunnel for that day. Not

all feeding tunnels are used

daily.

3. Set traps on or insert baits

into active feeding tunnels. Use

rubber gloves to set traps or

insert baits to reduce human

scent.

Continue to trap and bait until activity ceases.

Controlling a few moles in an average size lawn

(5000 square feet) will greatly reduce mole activity.

Effective traps include: “Easy Set” Mole Eliminator

scissor trap, the “Victor” and “Sweeney”.

Mole Runs

Possible controls options consist of repellents,

baits, Traps and poisons.

Apri l Gardening Ca lendar

B y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t

Page 3 The Garden Spade

Easy Varieties for

Beginning

Gardeners

Vegetables

Lettuce

Tomatoes

Spinach

Radish

Zucchini

Onions

Green Beans

Perennials

Daylily

Coreopsis

Echinacea

Peony

Rudbeckia

Annuals

Zinnia

Marigold

Sunflowers

Petunias

Herbs

Basil

Oregano

Sage

Dill

Outdoor Plants and Ornamentals

Winter mulches should be removed from roses.

Ornamental grasses can be cut back and divided right now.

Plants bought out of greenhouses need to be hardened off before planting.

Lift, divide, and replant mums as soon as new shoots appear.

Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds need no

covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful flowers in early

summer.

Cut back blooming shrubs right after they have

bloomed.

Vegetable Gardening

Start cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash, and

watermelon seed indoors in peat pots.

Plants started indoors should be hardened off outdoors

before being transplanted into the garden.

Plastic jugs make inexpensive, easy-to-use “hot caps” for vegetable seedlings.

Plant warm season vegetables after the chance of frost has passed.

Flower stalks should be removed from rhubarb plants, if they develop.

Fruits and Nuts

Pull mulches off the strawberry beds after last frost. Row covers can be

kept on until bloom.

Plant bare-root or potted fruits as soon as the soil can be worked.

Remove tree wraps from fruit trees now.

Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit

trees that are blooming.

Indoor plants

Prevent stem rot of house plants by potting up plants on a slight mound with

the soil sloping 1/4 inch lower at the edge of the pot.

Don’t be too anxious to move your house plants outdoors. Even a good

chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.

Turfgrass

Start mowing cool season grasses at recommended heights.

Aerate turf if thatch is heavy or if soil is compacted.

Apply crabgrass preventers before April 15. Do no apply to areas that will

be seeded.



The family, Bignoniaceae, is a plant family with 110

genera and over 800 species of woody plants.

Many of these species are from the tropics sporting

common names that include Pink Trumpet Vine,

Trumpet Tree, Cat’s Claw Vine, Sausage Tree,

Flame Vine, and Cape

Honeysuckle.

Leaves in this family are

usually opposite or

bicompound with flowers

containing a five-lobed

calyx. This is not the case

for all plants in the family. Many plants produce

flat, winged seeds inside a capsuled fruit.

Common species from this family found in zones 4

to 8 include:

Catalpa bignonoides is a late spring or early summer

flowering tree, displaying white flowers with purple

and yellow interior spots. This tree easily reaches

70 feet in height. It was extensively planted for

wood in the 1700’s but is now planted for shade.

The large, heart shaped leaves provide a protective

cover for birds and other animals during rain or

storm. This tree prefers a moist, fertile loam soil

and medium to wet conditions but tolerates

drought, making it a possible candidate for a large

rain garden.

Plant Fami l ies - Cata lpa Fami ly

b y S a r a h D e n k l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t

Campsis radicans, Trumpet Creeper, is found vining

on trees, fence posts and electric posts. It will

attach to structures and grows densely, easily

reaching 40 feet. Some find the leaves and flowers

to be an irritant to the skin. This plant is easily

affected by overspray from chemicals showing leaf

curl or discoloration. This plant is tolerant of wind

and can be neglected. Hummingbirds love these

July blooming flowers.

Wild Crossvine, Bignonia capreolata, is a vine

bearing unscented flowers in May. Reaching 50 feet

it is found in forests. The name comes from the

cross shape of the stem when cut. It has been

cultivated as in the variety ‘Tangerine Beauty’ but

hummingbirds love each variety.

Berlin Botanical Gardens

Cambridge University Botanical Gardens

calyx



Greenbrier, catbrier, bullbrier, tramp’s trouble, and

biscuit-leaves are all common names for Smilax sp.

As most of these names imply, this is a plant I pre-

fer not to tangle with. Some

varieties are covered in wicked

thorns that will go through

clothing and heavy leather

gloves. These vining plants can

be found in all areas of the state

and we have four common spe-

cies. They have tendrils that

allow them to climb to 25 feet

or cover the ground. They flower in May to June

with separate male and female flowers, pollinated

by insects. The fruit is a dark colored berry that is

Pest o f the Month : Greenbr ier

b y K a t i e K a m m l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t

enjoyed by wildlife. The leaves are glossy and can

vary in shape from hearts, triangles, and eggs. This

plant can form dense thickets and be very hard to

control once established. In the

spring, tender new growth can

be eaten as fresh greens. The

roots of these species can be

used in making a drink like root

beer, in which molasses and sas-

safras are added. Boiling the

roots and adding sugar can make

an amber-colored sweet jelly

and this can be mixed with water to make a sweet

drink.

Organic Pest ic ide : Sp inosad

b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t

Spinosad is an insect killer that quickly kills a variety

of pests. It was discovered from soil in an

abandoned rum distillery in 1982. It is derived

from the fermentation of a bacteria call

Sacharopolyspora spinosa (a

naturally occurring soil

microorganism). It was developed in

the mid-1990s to be an insecticide.

Spinosad is a nerve and stomach

poison that must be ingested by

insects to kill them. Paralysis and

death occur within minutes although

insects may remain on the plant for

up to two days. Spinosad has limited

translaminar activity, meaning it can move

somewhat into leaf tissue. This makes it effective

against leafminers that feed within leaves.

Spinosad will control caterpillars and borers, thrips,

leafminers, sawflies, Colorado potato beetle. It is

not effective against sucking insect pests such as

bugs and aphids. It has very low toxicity to non-

target organisms including pollinators and other

beneficial insects.

The best thing about this spinosad products is the

safety for people, birds, fish and

beneficial insects. It is even safe for

adult butterflies and many insect

predators and parasites. However,

it is still toxic to bees so be careful

when applying to plants in flower.

Spinosad is listed by the Organic

Materials Review Institute (OMRI) as

acceptable for use during organic

farming and gardening and any use

where toxic chemicals are to be

avoided. Only a small amount per gallon is

required- about 4 tablespoons per gallon of water.

It’s very important not to spray spinosad more than

2 - 3 times per growing season to reduce the risk

of pests developing resistance to the active

ingredients.

Picture of Colorado Potato Beetle

courtesy of NC Cooperative Extension.



harpoon traps, and the “Nash”

hoop trap. Available baits include

Kaput Mole Control (syringe

applicator), Moletox Baited Gel

(syringe applicator), Talpirid

(earthworm shaped bait), Motomco

Mole Bait (earthworm and grub

shaped baits), and TomCat Mole

Killer (earthworm and grub shaped baits). Baits can

be up to 95% effective if used correctly. Always



wear latex gloves when handling traps and bait to

avoid human scent contamination.

Keep in mind that moles are a

perennial problem. When a void in

the carrying capacity (number of

moles a given area can support) of a

given area is realized, more moles will move in

searching for earthworms and other insects. For

this reason, trapping is the most economical

method of mole control.

Missour i Urban Trees

b y P e n n y S i t z e s , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r T r a i n e e , P o p l a r B l u f f , M O

V R M A S D F G S H J K L Z X C V B Q S

Z I U B Q M P Y Z W N O X E B U C Y W N

T W L Z M X C U C U M B E R T R E E N C

X O B T U A R Y A L H I S K D J E F H G

B C E B M H A W T H O R N Q P T W O E I

S Y R O S L B D K U L C F J G I N K G O

Q K R X N R A A B E L H R U V H U C I B

N E Y E S Z P Q L M Y I M I M O S A E E

A T E L J N P M H D B G P V F R C D Y X

G L H D E F L A E O C D W S Q S A E L M

P V Z E O D E G U G K Y Y J T E K H R G

I A X R Q M U N B W I N P O M C P K I L

E T W U A O A O D O G J E R U H P L X V

N Q E P T W I L L O W U C B E E E O A D

G J L L A X V I N D W R A Y I S R P S F

H E K Z C W B A M E T U N O S T S F H K

H O N E Y L O C U S T Z C B M N I W R Y

I P S F H K Z C B M N V X L J U M G D A

O U T E Q N V X L J G D A O U T M T E Q

B C Z K H F S P I Y R W V Y U B O I N O

W Z E X R C T V Y M O U N T A I N A S H

BALDCYPRESS CUCUMBERTREE HOLLY MIMOSA PERSIMMON

BIRCH DOGWOOD HONEYLOCUST MOUTAINASH SWEETGUM

BOXELDER ELM HORSECHESTNUT MULBERRY SYCAMORE

BUCKEYE GINKGO MAGNOLIA PAWPAW TULIP

CRABAPPLE HAWTHORN MAPLE PECAN WILLOW

A mole eating bait

(Top) and Easy Set

Mole trap (Right).



When people are asked to explain the term organic

they may either search their knowledge for a few

seconds to find an answer or immediately blurt out,

“organic means no chemicals are used.”

How many of you can truly explain organic or

really know what it means?

The USDA provides an organic certification

and label for foods grown by their organic

standards. These

standards state

farms must

demonstrate that

they are protecting

natural resources,

conserving

biodiversity and

using only approved

substances. The

certification verifies that irradiation, sewage sludge,

synthetic fertilizers, prohibited pesticides,

antibiotics, growth hormones and genetically

modified organisms are not used.

Notice that some pesticides are not prohibited and

composted manure can be used as can natural

fertilizers.

Looking beyond organic certification

‘organic’ is defined as anything made of

carbon or derived from living matter.

In general practice, organic gardening uses less

petroleum based products, returns as many organic

materials (such as crop residue or sewage sludge)

back to the soil as possible and utilizes crop

rotation and diversity in plant species to sustain

what is grown.

For some, organic gardening is a continuous

practice of gardening that promotes sustainability.

This means practices that maintain soil health with

minimal inputs for future growth, lowering the cost

of gardening.

Myth “Organ ic = No Spray”

b y S a r a h D e n k l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t

In reality, any practice related to growing plants

should be done correctly, whether it is

conventional or done with minimal inputs.

Do not save or compost disease tissue, this

perpetuates the problem.

If 1 pound of nitrogen is what is needed then

do not apply 2 pounds, this is wasteful, costs

more and may end up in the water supply.

Identify a problem before attempting to control

it and then only apply what is necessary - when

it is necessary as control; applying a fungicide to

control a disease after the disease is present

does not control the disease.

Apply the correct amount; whether synthetic

or natural, if too much is applied it can

accumulate in soils.

Do not grow monocultures (a single plant

species in a given area). Even in landscaping a

monoculture will statistically succumb to

disease or insect pressure faster than a diverse

mix of species planted in a given area.

There are those who can argue passionately on

both sides of the issue. Develop an understanding

of the terms and what they truly mean. Organic

does not mean that no chemicals are being used.

There are natural chemicals available and some

natural chemicals that are prohibited on a certified

farm. There are man made chemicals that can be

used on certified organic farms.

In your own yard, what works best for you? If it is

your desire to do everything you can to minimize

your footprint on the environment do your part.

Examples include: building organic matter in the

soil, recycle everything possible from the trash, not

using chemicals. What examples can you think of?



It's that time again! As we plant our flower beds

and plan that special day for the Bride and Groom,

we wonder; "How can I preserve this memory and

all the beauty the blossoms provide?" Perhaps,

"Drying" is the answer for you. You will want to

decide how long you want the process to take and

how much money you want to spend. A few

examples you can choose from are: Air drying,

using desiccants, freeze drying, or using a glycerin

method. Some methods are

better for particular blooms than

others, so it is important you look

at each method before you begin a

project.

If it is important to you to

preserve the color of your blooms

you may consider the drying

method using desiccants. One

method uses oolitic sand which has a higher pH

level and will best preserve colors and shape. For

this method you will need the following supplies, all

of which can be purchased at a

craft store or online:

plastic box with airtight lid

oolitic sand

silica gel

Scissors

silicone spray

Here is the process:

1. Line the bottom of the box with a mixture of

(4) four parts oolitic sand and (1) one part silica

gel.

2. Cut the stem as close to the bloom as

possible. You will attach an artificial stem later.

3. Lay blossom face down in mixture. Adding

more mix to cover bloom. Do not let blooms

touch.

4. Place lid on box and store in a cool, dry,

dark place for 4-6 weeks. Do not leave more

than 8 weeks. Check blooms after 4 weeks to

see if process is complete. If so, gently brush

excess mixture from bloom and spray with

clear silicone. You may then add stems for your

project.

If you want to speed up the process you may use

the microwave to dry the blooms. Using the above

method, this is what you do. After placing blooms

in the box with the mixture, place the box in the

microwave (without the lid) and microwave on low

2-3 minutes and then check the

blooms. Roses like high heat while

daisies prefer low temperatures. It

may take longer depending on the

number of blooms in the box.

Other options:

Depending on your project,

you may consider pressing the

flowers for other craft uses. It is a

simple method using weight to flatten the

blossoms.

If you have an abundance of

blooms to be used for arrangements

and don't want the expense of

desiccants, you may choose to air dry

in bunches.

If you prefer a more natural, less

expensive process, equal parts of

borax and white cornmeal may be used

in the process described previously.

Silica gel is a popular method since it can be

used repeatedly for several years if instructions

are followed.

References:

HGIC 1151 Drying Flowers. Clemson Cooperative

Extension

Archive - Drying Flowers. Texas A&M University.

Also see MU Extension Guide G6540 Drying

Flowers and Foliage for Arrangements

http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6540

Dr y ing F lowers

b y K a t h y T a y l o r , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r i n T r a i n i n g

Upcoming Events The following Master Gardener meetings are held each month. All

are welcome to attend. Please contact the local extension office to

confirm location if you did not attend the previous meeting.

Parkland MGs - 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Memorial United Methodist, Farmington,

MO

Poplar Bluff MGs - 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm at Holy Cross Church in Poplar Bluff,

MO (Do not meet in January)

Ste. Genevieve MGs - 2nd Thursday, at 6:30pm, Ste. Gen. County Extension.

Center

Cape Girardeau MGs - 3rd Thursday at 7:00pm, Cape County Extension. Center

Perry MGs - 4th Monday at 6:30pm, Perry County Extension. Center

Jackson Beekeepers - 4th Tuesday @ 7:00pm, First Presbyterian Church, 206 E

Washington, Jackson, MO

SEMO Honey Producers - 2nd Thursday @ 6:30pm, Church of Christ, Poplar

Bluff, MO (Do not meet in December or January)

Parkland Beekeepers - 3rd Tuesday @7:00pm, North College Center, Mineral

Area College, Park Hills, MO

South Central MO Beekeepers - 1st Friday, Howell Electric Coop, West Plains,

MO

April

9, 16, 23, 30 - Lunch and Learn Series, University of Missouri Extension

Center in Poplar Bluff, MO at noon. Fee $10.00. To register call

573-686-8064.

15 - Garden Workshop, Howell County Health Department, 180

Kentucky Street in West Plains, MO. To register call 417-256-

7078.

16 - Mushrooms and Herbs, Mineral Area College Continuing Education

16 to 19 - Dogwood Azalea Festival in Charleston, MO

25 - Society Annual Herb Sale from 8:30am to 2pm. www.wgherbs.org

25 - Cape County Master Gardeners Spring Garden Festival and Plant

Sale, Arena Park in Cape Girardeau from 8 am to 2 pm.

May

1 to 3 - Azalea Festival in Fredericktown, MO

14 - What’s Wrong with My Plant, Mineral Area College Continuing

Education

16 & 17 - Ste. Genevieve Garden Walk, Ste. Genevieve Welcome

Center

If you have a horticultural related event for the calendar call 573-686-8064 or email it to

[email protected].


“Green Thumb” Garden Workshop Series

At the Shawnee Park Center in Cape

Girardeau, MO from 6 to 8 p.m.

April 7 Organic Gardening

April 21 Design Your Garden -

Raised Beds, Container and

Lasagna Gardening

May 5 Growing and Using Herbs

May 19 Fruit Production

June 9 Compost and Improving

Your Soil

July 7 Save Your Harvest - Canning

and Freezing Techniques

For more information or to register for

these free workshops, call 573-339-6340.

Sponsored by the University of Missouri

Extension Service, The Cape Girardeau

County Public Health Department and the

Cape Girardeau Parks & Recreation

Department.

Interested in beekeeping. Follow

the Missouri State Beekeepers

Association on Facebook or go to

scientificbeekeeping.com to connect

with knowledgeable groups.

The Garden Spade is published monthly by University of Missouri

Extension staff for individuals and families living in Southeast

and East Central Missouri. This newsletter is provided by your

local extension council.

Editors:

Katie Kammler, Plant Science Specialist

255 Market St., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

573-883-3548

Sarah Denkler, Horticulture Specialist

222 North Broadway Street, Poplar Bluff, MO 63901

573-686-8064

Donna Aufdenberg, Horticulture Specialist

304 High Street, PO Box 19, Marble Hill, MO 63764

573-238-2420

Editor ’s Corner

We welcome and encourage Master Gardener groups

and individuals to submit items to the newsletter. We

encourage the submission of any news such as

upcoming volunteer opportunities, community events

related to gardening, warm wishes or congratulations to

fellow gardeners. We also encourage Master

Gardeners sharing experiences and writing articles on

timely topics.

All entries into the group news sections must be

received by 4:30 on the15th of each month for the

following months news.

Email news to: [email protected],

[email protected], or [email protected]

Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned

products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar

products not mentioned.

University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating equal opportunity/ADA institutions

Butler County Extension

222 North Broadway

Poplar Bluff, MO 63901

April 2015 Garden Spade

Documents

The Garden Spade - University of Missouriextension.missouri.edu/butler/documents/mg/Garden... · The Garden Spade however they are well aware of the damage caused to lawns and ornamental