Issue #40December 2nd 2015

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Vivian Maier's photos in Milan

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Police in the saddle with PiaggioThe new scooter has been created thanks to the partnership of two leading Italian companies pg. 4

A talent stretching from design to architecture

The eclecticism of Iosa Ghini

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Self portrait, June 1953|© Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York.

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The eclecticism of Iosa Ghini

| Issue #40 | December 2nd 2015

The founder of Bolidismo movement and member of the Memphis Group with Ettore Sottsass, the architect Massimo Iosa Ghini is one of the most influential international voices in industrial design, the planning of commercial and museum architecture, the planning of areas and facilities dedicated to public transport and the design of chair stores all over the world.His design and architecture projects have received important recognitions such as the Premio Compasso D’Oro ADI, the Good Design Award from Chicago Athenaeum, the Red Dot Award and the iF Product Design Award from Germany, the Roscoe Award from the United States, the IAI AWARD Green Design Global Award and the IAI Award, from Shanghai, China.

Where does your aesthetic vision start from? What are the elements that have influenced it the most?I come from post-modernism. Cataloguing the world in terms of style and trends was a necessity in the past when you opened an archive full of paper files. Now you go to Google, write a few words and enter a dimension that takes you gradually towards what you are looking for.I love futurism for its dynamic force and conversely everything that is harmonic and natural. Nature has its biological dynamism that is both cruel and gentle. We strive to insert ourselves between the cogs of an enormous machine that operates to strict rules but is also constantly evolving.

Your work is eclectic and ranges from industrial design to architecture including installations and interior design. What is the fil rouge of your projects?

Research, innovation and incessant substitution that all organisms are designed for. Substitution to adapt to new contexts, often to improve them.

What are the materials of the future in the world of industrial design?The materials of the future are those that can be extruded and used by a 3D printer. Industrial design will become special design, made ad hoc and to measure for each of us. Eco plastics, mortars, ceramics, all fluid materials.

You designed glasses for Silhouette in the 1990s. Can you tell us about your experience in our sector?In 1994, Arnold Schmied asked me to work with a new material, a nylon with an opalescent effect that could crate light and rarefied effects. At the time, I intended to create limited editions, not mass production. We made three models that are now classics, quintessential objects.

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Police in the saddle with Piaggio

Sama Eyewear will launch for summer 2016 a new collection for Thomas Wylde. The house of Thomas Wylde has sleek and strong, mysterious and often even androgynous, but still sexy aesthetic. Thomas Wylde Eyewear by Sama will incorporate new silhouettes, bold shapes, a flawless fit, architectural angles, proportion and materials that reflect their respective philosophy, mood and quality.Sheila Vance, foinder and designer of Sama Eyewer, looked into Thomas Wilde archives to develop and keep the true intrinsic DNA of the brand for the eyewear range, as she said: “For this collaboration it was key to dive into the brand to understand the artistic approach, avant guard nature and their materials so we could adapt elements and incorporate the right approach”.

The new Beverly 300 by Police has been created thanks to the partnership of two leading Italian companies: Police and the Piaggio Group, the main European manufacturer and international leader in the scooter sector. The two style and technology icons have developed together a scooter than combines the audacious and determined spirit of Police, always known for its metropolitan and biting verve, and the technology of Beverly, the high-wheeled scooter featured in its 300cc version. Beverly 300 by Police enters the European market with a daring black mat model, with shiny chrome-plated details and blue mirrors, just like the lenses of the Police sunglasses that have embodied an entire generation. To complete the look, Beverly by Police is offered with a special helmet that is coordinated with the scooter image.

The "Open Door" project, designed and launched in September 2015 by Vista Eyewear, producer of the Mad in Italy brand, continues with success. The project aims to explain the production phases for glasses, from design to production and distribution. Not just by words but also through opening the doors of the company to the eyes of Italian university students and specialist schools in a programme of visits and guided tastings to improve awareness of the territory in which Mad was born.Given the success to date, the company also plans to export the idea beyond Italy. Participation is upon special request by opticians.

The "Open Door" projectThomas Wylde arrives in the eyewear

| Issue #40 | December 2nd 2015

Hoya economic results

During the second quarter of 2015, the Hoya Corporation revenues totaled 130,165 million yen, increasing by 7.4% from the same period last year. Pre-tax profit for the quarter was 33,858 million yen, while profit for the quarter was 27,140 million yen; decrease of 1.2% and 0.7%, respectively from last year when foreign exchange gain was reported due to the decline in the value of yen against U.S. Dollar.For the six months ended September 30, 2015, revenues totaled 256,403 million yen, increasing by 9.4% year-on-year. Pre-tax profit posted 64,759 million yen and profit for the term was 50,790 million yen, both the best first-half profit total in the company’s history.

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Turn over

Safilens is about to take over the Brazilian market too. After being approved by the Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa), its Fusion and Open lenses can now be sold to customers and patients in Brazil. Fusion and Open will be distributed by the local Open Vista do Brasil subsidiary based in São Paulo. “We are very proud of this more-than-deserved success”, said Vincenzo Bruno, Managing Director of the company. “There are just two key words to maintaining market competitiveness: research and innovation. Our R&I investments have enabled us to introduce Fusion and Open to the Brazilian market.”

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Private healthcare company the 3fivetwo Group has paid an undisclosed sum to acquire high street eyecare retailers Sweeney Opticians. The new chain, operating under the Sweeney Opticians Eye and Hearing Care brand, will incorporate Optique Eye and Ear Care, which is already part of the 3fivetwo Group.

The move is part of a continuing programme of restructuring and expansion which inside six months has seen 3fivetwo invest £ 3.5 m in Kingsbridge Private Hospital in Belfast and acquire St Joseph’s Hospital in Sligo. The old Optique is moving out of its current location to operate out of new, larger premises with onsite parking facilities right next to the newly expanded flagship Kingsbridge hospital on the Lisburn Road. The acquisition deal will also see the rebranding of existing Sweeney optical retail units in Donaghadee, Portaferry and Newtownabbey.

3fivetwo Group acquires Sweeney Eyecare chain

The Sunglasses Workshop and Awards 2015 was one of the highlights of TFWA World Exhibition and Conference in Cannes this year. Sponsored by Luxottica, Marcolin, De Rigo, Marchon, Maui Jim and Safilo, the awards were presented by a panel of six judges: Francis Gros, head of global channels, Luxottica; Chiara Polverini, duty free & travel retail manager, Marcolin; Giles Marks, director duty free sales, Maui Jim; Elena Marconato, travel retail marketing manager, Safilo; Erwan Le Guennec, international travel retail director, Marchon; Enrico Molin, boutiques & duty free manager, De Rigo. Winners are: Best New In-store Environment for Sunglasses DFS Group (above US $2 billion) and Classic Group (below US$2 billion); Best Marketing of Sunglasses World Duty Free Group – Spanish Airports Summer 2015 (above US $2 billion) and Beirut Duty Free (below US $2 billion); Best Dedicated Sunglasses Sales Team DFS Group (above US $2 billion) and JAL-DFS (below US$2 billion); Best Off-Airport Sunglasses Retailer Lotte Duty Free (above US$2 billion) and Starboard Cruise Services (below US$2 billion); Best Airport for Sunglasses Retailer Heathrow Airport; Sunglasses Retailer of the Year Gebr Heinemann (above US$2 billion) and Kappé International (below US$2 billion).

Winners of the Sunglasses Workshop and Awards 2015

| Issue #40 | December 2nd 2015

Anvisa registration for Safilens

Silvia Azzali Head of Global Travel Retail & Master Franchise WolfordGianni Castiglioni President MarniSimon Holloway Creative Director AgnonaUbaldo Minelli CEO Marni

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Design, fashion & lifestyle

On 12 January 2016 at 12 midday during Pitti Uomo, Caruso will launch the world preview of the second episode of The Good Italian, a series of short movies (around 5 minutes) to celebrate the Italian lifestyle.The protagonist of the series is Giancarlo Giannini, a point of reference for Italian cinema, who will play the Prince of Soragna roaming between the sites of good Italian living. In the second episode the Prince goes to Milan with a roadster car symbol of made in Italy - the same used in the film Il Sorpasso (The easy life) – at the 5-star Four Seasons Hotel, once a 15th century convent. The launch of the movie in collaboration with Pitti Uomo is recognition of this event, a point of reference for the male world.

The Good Italian II

From 19 November, the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum in New York City will stage an exhibition dedicated to Jacqueline de Ribes. The French countess was the muse to many designers and a fashion icon between the '60s and the '80s, as well as creator of original collections. The garments exhibited were created by Armani, Pierre Balmain, John Galliano, Valentino, Jean-Paul Gaultier (who called her "divine Jacqueline"), Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and naturally by Jacqueline de Ribes herself. Born in 1929, Jacqueline de Ribes was considered the "supreme incarnation of Parisian elegance". Photographed by Richard Avedon and Robert Doisneau, the American Town & Country magazine named her the "most stylish woman in the world" in 1983. The exhibition will be open to the public until 21 February.

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Vivian Maier, the photographic success who conquered the world, arrives for the first time in Milan with a photography exhibition by Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia in collaboration with the Milan Chamber of Commerce and Contrasto. Curated by Anne Morin and Alessandra Mauro in collaboration with Chroma Photography, the exhibition features 120 black and white photographs from the '50s and '60s along with a selection of coloured images from the '70s. There are also a number of super 8 mm films that show Vivian Maier in action. Nanny by profession and photographer by vocation, she never abandoned her Rolleiflex, yet her photographs were never publicly displayed whilst she was alive. The majority of her rolls were undeveloped, Vivian Maier apparently photographed just for her own pleasure.

The photographs of Vivian Maier in Milan

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Pigeon boy, no date © Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York.

Pomikaki has entrusted the fashion blogger and influencer Linda Tol with the creation of a bag for the Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Glamorous as well as elegant and romantic, the model perfectly mirrors Linda’s personality.The bag is available in a delicate pastel pink and features a single handle, removable and adjustable shoulder strap, front flap, side pleats and gold metallic details. A unique feature is the saffiano effect, a special pattern of the calfskin that creates a beautiful and luxurious look. Equally sophisticated, as well as witty and simple is the charm inspired by the logo of her famous blog: a delightful emoticon caricature that captures the face and style of the blogger.

| Issue #40 | December 2nd 2015

A fashion muse at the Met

The charm of the saffiano effect