The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Volume I\p=m-\Background.Second Edition.By Maison G. deNavarre. Price, $10.75. Pp. 389, with illustrations, diagrams, tables,and glossaries. D. Van Nostrand Company, Inc., 120 Alexander St., Princeton, N.J.,1962.The dermatologist is always interested in cosmetics and the publication of a new edition of a

standard reference on cosmetics science and technology should be welcome. This first volumeprovides background material and also leads to the subjects of the subsequent volumes which willbe subtitled Vol. II\p=m-\CosmeticMaterials; Vol. III\p=m-\Make-Up; and Vol. IV\p=m-\MiscellaneousCosmetics. These later volumes are scheduled to appear at six-month intervals.A listing of the contents of the first volume will indicate the broad coverage of the subject.

Chapters are titled as follows : Aerosols ; Antibiotics ; Cosmetic Colors; Emulsions ; The FederalFood, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, and the Regulation of Cosmetics ; Perfume Creation ; Toxicologyin Cosmetics; Preservation; Rancidity; Rheology Fundamentals and Applications in CosmeticIndustry, and Incompatibilities.

The physician is likely most interested in cosmetics from the standpoint of possible allergicsensitivity, and from this book he can learn the components of modern cosmetics\p=m-\colors,perfumes,preservatives, and antioxidants, etc. with the reasons for their selection and presence. The tablespresented will be very helpful in this regard. However, the precautions to prevent allergenicity,contamination, and toxicity are here too.

The techniques and practices of the cosmetic industry will be of further interest because oftheir obvious applications to the preparation of pharmaceuticals and especially because of the over¬lapping of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals in the fields of skin creams, lubricants, bath oils, soaps,and shampoos, to mention a few. Cosmetic manufacturers are also engaged in pharmaceuticalmanufacture and vice versa.

The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938 has had considerable influence on thecosmetic industry, forbidding interstate shipping of adulterated, i.e., injurious and misbrandedcosmetics, i.e., those with false or misleading labeling. The chapter covering this act also citesthe sometimes thin line separating cosmetics from drugs, as for example, if a deodorant's actionis to absorb perspiration or mask its odor it is a "cosmetic," whereas it is held to be a drug if itsaction is by affecting the sweat glands.

That there is more than meets the nose in creating a perfume is shown by steps given by theauthor. These are the mixing of the body, modifiers, fixatives, top notes, and the finishing orartistic touch. If these seem simple, there are four or more kinds of fixatives—"arbitrary," "real,""exalting," and "so-called" fixers—to be considered. For the do-it-yourself reader there are over70 formulas listing from eight to as many as 34 ingredients for a single perfume.

Many problems of preservation and rancidity necessarily concern the cosmetic chemist, andthe physician will be interested to read of the influence of bacteria and molds on cosmetics. Whileperfume oils have varying inhibitory actions, some cosmetics, such as creams, require preservatives.No universal preservative is available, but it is interesting to note that />-hydroxy benzoates(parabens) have very wide application.

The author, who has had a long and close association with the cosmetic industry and itspublications, is well versed in the changes and advances he presents. For several of his chaptershe has also drawn upon the special knowledge of other contributors, who, like himself, areassociated with the production of cosmetics.

The publisher has produced this work in an attractive book of convenient size, well indexed,and reasonable in cost. Apart from its intended usefulness to those in the cosmetic industry, itshould be a valuable reference with a wealth of information for the dermatologist, allergist,pharmacist, pharmaceutical manufacturer, and others interested in this fascinating field.

Addenda.—Vol. II of the above series is now available at the same price, although the sub¬scription price for the series is $9.25 per volume.

Vol. II covers cosmetic raw materials arranged by groups from Acetoglycerides to ZirconiumCompounds, including such groups as Botanicals, Fluorescent Brighteners, Lanolin Derivatives,Psoralens, Silicones, and Waxes to mention only a few.

William Blake Gibson, M.D.

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