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The Best of Ireland from $80 a Day
“The modern American tourist,” wrote historian Daniel J. Boorstin, “hascome to expect both more strangeness and more familiarity than the world nat-urally offers.” That said, Ireland continues to offer more than its share of both.
At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The lan-guage is the same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recogniza-ble, the stout legendary. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience theirarrival as a kind of homecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie towear off. When it does, the other face of Ireland shows itself, and this is whenthe country becomes truly exciting.
Ireland is a place of profound contradiction and complexity. For one thing, itis at the same time both ancient and adolescent. It’s as young as it is old. Ire-land’s age is obvious to anyone with a car. Within a half-day drive of downtownDublin lie Neolithic tombs, Bronze Age forts, early Christian monastic sites,Viking walls, and Georgian estates—enough antiquity to make your head spin,all in plain sight. Centuries-old castles are as commonplace in Ireland as Wal-Mart stores are in the United States. The Irish past doesn’t exist just in books;it’s in the backyard. A shovel, digging for peat or potatoes, may well strike a5,000-year-old grave. Thousands of unexcavated ancient sites litter the country-side. Any visitor to Ireland who ventures beyond its shops and pubs will soon bestruck by how the country revels in its age.
What is less obvious is how new Ireland is as a nation. The Republic of Ire-land, with its own constitution and currency, is barely 50 years old. MaryMcAleese, the current president of Ireland, is only the eighth person to hold thatoffice. In political age, Ireland, for all its antiquity, is a mere pup. Like any ado-lescent, it’s doing many things for the first time, and at least a few of its contra-dictions make sense when you keep that fact in mind. Compounding Ireland’syouth as a nation is the youth of its people. Roughly half of the population isunder 25, and nearly a quarter is under 15. This means that, in some homes,those who once fought for Irish independence are living under the same roofwith those who have never known anything else. In these same homes, the gapbetween generations is often seismic. It is indeed curious that in a country wherewhat happened 1,000 years ago reads like yesterday’s news, it is common to feelold and outnumbered at 30.
Ireland’s past has been remarkably tumultuous, inspiring a tradition of courage,humor, and creativity. Change is nothing new to the island, yet the rate and scaleof the changes occurring in Ireland today are without precedent. And that’s wherethe contradictions become so endearing, like the old farmer in a tweed cap who isafraid of computers but rings his bookmaker on a cellphone. Like the publicanprogressive enough to have a website but traditional enough to not like seeing awoman drinking from a pint glass. (Older folks often tsk-tsk that “ladies should
1
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drink from half-pint glasses.”) Like the grocer–cum–post office, or better still, thegrocer–cum–hardware store–cum–pub, both common entities in many a ruraltown. Like the national weather forecasts, which, even with the help of a gazillionsatellites, still manage to appear so parochially informal. One radio weathermanactually offered this by way of a forecast: “It’s dry and clear across most of thecountry, and let’s hope it stays that way.” The magic of today’s Ireland lies in thesedaily slices of life.
T H E B E S T P I C T U R E - P O S T C A R D I R I S H T O W N S 5
1 The Best Websites• Irelandhotels.com (www.ireland
hotels.com): What catapults thisaccommodations database ahead ofthe raft of hotel-finding sites is its“search by facility” function. Gottahave a gym? Need to find a babysit-ter? Want an in-room modem dat-aport for checking your e-mail?No problem. Just plug in yourrequirements and it will spit out alist of hotels and guesthouses thatfit the bill.
• Ireland Consolidated (www.irelandconsolidated.com): One ofthe best bucket shops specializingin Ireland, it offers unsold ticketson major airlines at well belowpublished rates.
• Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.travel.ie): Bord Failte’s site is botheasy to navigate and extremelyinformative. An excellent place tostart gathering ideas for your trip.
• AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): Planning on driving inIreland? The route-planning fea-ture of the Irish Automobile Asso-ciation’s site is brilliantly simple.Plug in your starting point anddestination, and you’ll get a verydetailed set of directions on how toget from A to B. You can even tell
the database to avoid motorwaysand toll roads, if you so desire.
• Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie): This handy,exhaustive, searchable databaseincludes just about every eventgoing on in Ireland, from museumexhibitions to rock concerts to hotnew plays to nightclub themenights. And there are well-writtenreviews of them all, to boot.
• Irish Family History Foundation(www.irishroots.net): This brand-new, comprehensive genealogyresource contains documentationfrom all 32 counties on the island.Much of the archived informationis free for your perusal, and youcan also hire researchers to do thework for you.
• Newshound (www.nuzhound.com): Hands down, this is thebest single resource for keeping upto date on Northern Ireland. It’s asearchable library of news articlesabout developments in the North,including a terrific timeline of keyevents in “the Troubles.” In addi-tion, there’s a vast array of articleson the Republic, including traveland dining reviews.
2 The Best Picture-Postcard Irish Towns• Dalkey (County Dublin): This
charming south-coast suburb ofDublin enjoys both easy access tothe city and freedom from its snarlsand frenzy. It has a castle, an island,a mountaintop folly, and a fewparks, all in ample miniature. With
all the fine and simple restaurantsand pubs and shops anyone needsfor a brief visit or a long stay,Dalkey is a tempting town to settleinto. See “Easy Excursions fromDublin” in chapter 4.
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• Carlingford (County Louth):What a pleasant surprise, up inlackluster Louth: A charming, tinymedieval village with castle ruinsright on the bay, excellent eateries,and pedestrian-friendly lanes filledwith colorful shops, cafes, andpubs. See “County Louth: WhereCuchulainn Walked” in chapter 5.
• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nes-tled in the Nore River Valley,cupped in the soft palm of roundedhills, this idyllic riverfront villagewith two spacious greens and a col-lection of pleasant cafes and pubs isamong the most photographedIrish towns. Pronounced “In-ish-teeg,” it was the backdrop for thefilm Circle of Friends. It attractshosts of anglers, because fish invari-ably show good taste and love thisplace. See “Kilkenny City & Envi-rons” in chapter 6.
• Kilkenny (County Kilkenny):Slightly larger than a small town(locals like to think it a city, and sothat’s what we call it) but terriblypicture-postcard nonetheless, Kil-kenny may offer the best survivingIrish example of a medieval town.Its walls, the splendidly restoredcastle, and the renowned designcenter housed in the castle stablesdraw visitors from Ireland andabroad. Kilkenny, however, is nomuseum. Many regard it as per-haps the most attractive largetown in Ireland. See “KilkennyCity & Environs” in chapter 6.
• Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’snarrow streets all lead to the sea,dropping steeply from the hills thatrim the beautiful harbor. This is
undoubtedly one of Ireland’s mostpicturesque towns, but the myriadvisitors who crowd the streets everysummer attest to the fact that thesecret is out. The walk from Kin-sale through Scilly to Charles Fortand Frower Point is breathtaking.Kinsale has the added benefit ofbeing a foodie town, with no short-age of good restaurants. See “Kin-sale” in chapter 8.
• Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’redriving the Ring of Kerry, this isthe most charming base camp youcould wish for. The “little nest” hasa blessed location at the mouth ofthe River Roughty on KenmareBay, and is loaded to the gills withflower boxes, enchanting shops,and places to eat. See “The IveraghPeninsula” in chapter 9.
• Adare (County Limerick): Like aperfect little medieval town pluckedfrom a children’s book, Adare is abastion of thatched cottages, black-and-white timbered houses, lichen-covered churches, and romanticruins, all strewn along the banks ofthe River Maigue. And it’s got twoof the best hotels and one of thebest restaurants in Ireland, to boot.See “Limerick City & Environs” inchapter 10.
• Westport (County Mayo): It’snever a surprise in Ireland whensomeone says Westport is hisfavorite town—it’s small and burst-ing. Someday it might explode intoa city, but for now Westportremains a hyperactive town thatsomehow manages to be as friendlyand welcoming as a village. See“County Mayo” in chapter 10.
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3 The Best Tiny Seaside Villages• Ardmore (County Waterford):
Ardmore is best known for itscomplex of medieval ruins, includ-ing a beautiful round tower and achapel with a remarkable set of
carvings on its gable. The townitself is clustered around a sandybay between craggy headlands. See“Waterford City & County Water-ford” in chapter 6.
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• Brandon (County Kerry): Thistown is so small, you could easilymiss it if you didn’t know it washere. Grab a seat at Murphy’s Pubon the pier and enjoy a pint whileyou watch the fishermen come infrom the bay. Brandon sits in theshadow of Mt. Brandon, Ireland’ssecond-highest mountain, and justdown the road from the great oceanviews at Brandon Point. See “TheDingle Peninsula” in chapter 9.
• Dunfanaghy (County Donegal):Outstanding beaches and coastalscenery are within walking dis-tance of this resort town on Ire-land’s northern coast. Don’t missthe Horn Head Drive, or the
traditional music that bursts intospontaneous life most nights inDunfanaghy or nearby Falcarragh.See “The Atlantic Highlands” inchapter 13.
• Glencolumbkille (County Done-gal): Modern conveniences, such aselectricity, came only recently tothis village on a tiny cove amongthe mountains of southwest Done-gal, and there’s still a sense of step-ping back in time when you entersome of the local pubs and shops.Don’t miss the Folk Museum,which preserves the past in areconstructed village of thatchedcottages. See “The Donegal BayCoast” in chapter 13.
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4 The Best Free Attractions & Open Sites• National Museum of Ireland
(Dublin): This is where most ofthe nation’s archaeological treas-ures are kept—the Ardagh Chal-ice, the Tara Brooch, the Cross ofCong. There’s no better place toget in touch with Dublin’s past,from the first Viking settlement tothe Easter Rising of 1916. On thesame block are the (also free)National Gallery and Natural His-tory Museum. See p. 139.
• Trinity College (Dublin):Although you do have to pay toenter the Old Library, where therenowned Book of Kells is dis-played, the rest of this historiccampus is free and open for you toexplore. As soon as you passthrough the gates, you leave thenoises of the city behind and enteranother world. Watch a cricketmatch in the College Park, andstroll through the college’s cob-bled squares. See chapter 4.
• Kells (County Kilkenny): This pri-ory and fortified town is one of Ire-land’s most spectacular medievalruins. Because there’s no visitor cen-ter, you’re on your own to explore
and to interpret what you see; asmall book available at the townpost office offers assistance with theinterpretation. See “Kilkenny City& Environs” in chapter 6.
• Athassel Priory (County Tipper-ary): The largest medieval prioryin Ireland, Athassel is spread inruins over 1.6 hectares (4 acres).Although it’s not as well preservedas Kells, there’s still a lot here toexplore, and the picturesquestones are sure to excite yourimagination. Rarely visited, it’s inthe middle of a field, on a quietback road near Cashel. See p. 247.
• Black Fort (County Galway): Thedramatic 67m (220-ft.) long wall ofthis promontory fort cuts off accessto a small peninsula on Inishmor.Its site is spectacular and the defen-sive field of sharp stones that makesup its front yard is well worth nego-tiating. See p. 422.
• Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge(County Antrim): Each spring,local fishermen put up this openrope bridge spanning a chasm 18m(60 ft.) wide and 24m (80 ft.) abovethe sea between the mainland and a
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small island. It makes for athrilling walk if you don’t fearheights. See p. 530.
• Carrowkeel (County Sligo): Eerilyisolated atop several steep hills, andconnected by sight with nearbyMaeve’s Tomb atop Knocknarea
and the Neolithic tombs of Car-rowmore, this collection of passagetombs is among the earliest surviv-ing records of Ireland’s prehistoricpeoples. A visit here is an experi-ence not to be missed. See p. 442.
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5 The Best Active Vacations• Hiking in the Galtee Mountains:
The gentle contours of Tipperary’sGaltees offer the perfect scenicbackdrop for trail riding. You’ll beprovided with all you need for atrekking holiday at KilmaneenFarmhouse, a commodious B&Bwith an excellent hiking program.See “Easy Excursions into SouthTipperary” in chapter 6.
• Sea Kayaking in West Cork: Withhundreds of islands, numerousinviting inlets, and a plethora of seacaves, the coast of West Cork is asea kayaker’s paradise. In Castle-townbere on the Beara Peninsula,Beara Outdoor Pursuits (& 027/70692; www.seakayakingwestcork.com), specializes in accompanied
trips out and around Bere Islandand as far as Glengariff. See “WestCork” in chapter 8.
• Bicycling in the Southwest: Thepeninsulas and islands of Cork andKerry are perfect for cycling, withlow traffic and an abundance ofbeautiful places to visit. Roycroft’sStores in Skibbereen, County Cork,rent bikes that are a notch above theusual rental equipment. See chap-ters 8 and 9.
• Walking the Donegal Coast: Thecliff-rimmed headlands of Donegalare the most spectacular in Ireland,and the best way to explore them ison foot. Among the finest walks areSlieve League, Glen Head, andHorn Head. See chapter 13.
6 The Best Beaches• Raven Point (County Wexford):
The Raven Nature Reserve, justnorth of Wexford Harbour, is aplace of forested dunes anduncrowded beaches. During thewinter and spring a large popula-tion of migratory wildfowl makesthis their temporary home. See p. 227.
• Barleycove Beach (County Cork):Barleycove is an inlet at the tip ofMizen Head, a place of greatrugged beauty. Despite some devel-opment in the form of a hotel andtrailer park, the beach doesn’t gettoo crowded, and is a great place towalk or swim. See p. 304.
• Inch Strand, Kilmurray Bay, andTrabeg Beach (all County Kerry):The Dingle Peninsula delivers
some of the most drop-dead-gor-geous and unique beaches in thecountry. When David Lean filmedparts of Ryan’s Daughter on InchStrand, he said it was the mostbeautiful place he’d ever seen. Seep. 343.
• Lahinch (County Clare): Over-looking a wide-as-the-eye-can-seeexpanse of sand in a horseshoebay, there’s an old-fashionedpromenade with ice-cream stalls,surf shops, and summer vendors.In short, one of Ireland’s mostquaint seaside resorts. See p. 368.
• Portacloy (County Mayo): Witha curving crescent of white sand, atranquil bay, and a fleet of divingcormorants, this beach is a gemthat (surprisingly) doesn’t draw
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large crowds. It is strikingly ruraland shimmers a silky aquamarineamidst sheep fields and a cluster offarm cottages. Come here for aspectacular cliffside walk as well asa refreshing dip. See p. 394.
• Trabane Strand (County Done-gal): Donegal has some of themost beautiful stretches of unpop-ulated beach in Ireland, and Tra-bane Strand near Dunfanaghy is a
prime example. You have to bewilling to walk, as there isn’t roadaccess, but on a fine day a stroll onthis glorious expanse of sea sand,with the cliffs of Horn Head onthe horizon, will amply reward theeffort. As for swimming in thesechilly northern waters, it’s best toleave that to the seals and the trulycourageous. See p. 469.
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7 The Best Natural Wonders• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County
Kerry): One of several mountainranges on the Iveragh Peninsula,MacGillycuddy’s Reeks boasts Car-rantuohill, at 1,037m (3,404 ft.)the highest mountain in Ireland.Whether gazed at from afar orexplored up close on foot, theReeks are among Ireland’s greatestspectacles. See p. 333.
• The Burren (County Clare): TheBurren—from the Irish Boireann,meaning “a rocky place”—is one ofthe strangest landscapes you’re everlikely to see: a vast limestone grass-land, spread with a quilt of wild-flowers. Its inhabitants include thepine marten and nearly everyspecies of butterfly found in Ire-land. See p. 368.
• The Cliffs of Moher (CountyClare): Rising from Hag’s Head tothe south, these magnificent seacliffs reach their full height of232m (760 ft.) just north ofO’Brien’s Tower. The views of theopen sea, of the distant AranIslands, and of the Twelve Bens ofConnemara are spectacular. Awalk south along the cliff edge atsunset makes a perfect end to anyday. See p. 377.
• Croagh Patrick (County Mayo):Rising steeply 762m (2,500 ft.)above the Mayo coast, CroaghPatrick is Ireland’s holiest moun-tain, where Patrick is said to have
retreated in penance. The place isbiblically imposing. The viewfrom above can be breathtaking ornonexistent, as the summit isoften wrapped in clouds, addingto its mystery. See p. 388.
• The Twelve Bens (County Gal-way): Amid Connemara’s centralmountains, bogs, and lakes rises arugged range known as the TwelveBens, crowning a landscape that isamong the most spectacular inIreland. Among the peaks them-selves, some are bare and rockywhile others are clothed in peat.The loftiest of the Bens, Benbaun,reaches a height of 730m (2,395 ft.)and lies inside the ConnemaraNational Park. See “Connemara”in chapter 12.
• Slieve League (County Donegal):The Slieve League peninsulastretches for 48km (30 miles) intothe Atlantic and is 19km (12 miles)across at its widest point. Its won-derfully pigmented cliffs are thehighest sea cliffs in Europe, andcan either be gazed at from Carri-gan Head or walked along, if youdare. From below or from above,Slieve League serves up some of themost dazzling sights in Ireland. Seep. 464.
• The Giant’s Causeway (CountyAntrim): In case you lose count,there are roughly 40,000 tightlypacked and mostly hexagonal basalt
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columns said to comprise the giantFinn McCool’s path from theAntrim headland into the seatoward the Scottish island of Staffa.This volcanic wonder, formed 60
million years ago, can either bemarveled at from a distance ornegotiated cautiously on foot. Seep. 531.
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8 The Best Castles• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary):
One of the largest of Ireland’s cas-tles, Cahir is in an extraordinarystate of preservation. Tours explainsome fascinating features of thecastle’s military architecture, andyou’re free to roam through amaze of tiny chambers, spiralstaircases, and vertiginous battle-ments. See p. 247.
• Kilkenny Castle (County Kil-kenny): Although parts of the castledate back to the 13th century, theexisting structure has the feel of an18th-century palace. There havebeen many modifications sincemedieval times, including the addi-tion of beautiful landscaping on thegrounds. See p. 258.
• Blarney Castle (County Cork):Despite the mobs of visitors thatbesiege the castle daily, this majes-tic tower house is worth a visit.While you’re here, check out theBadger Cave and dungeons at thetower’s base, as well as the serpen-tine paths that wind through thecastle gardens, set in a picturesquerocky glen. Need we mention theStone? You sidle in under theupper wall with your head hang-ing over a 10-story drop, andthere it is. You kiss it. It’s a thingpeople do. See p. 282.
• Charles Fort (County Cork):Located on a promontory in
stunning Kinsale Harbor, thefort’s massive walls enclose a com-plex array of buildings in varyingstates of repair. At the entranceyou’re handed a map and then lefton your own to explore, discover,and almost certainly get lost in themaze of courtyards, passages,walls, and barracks. See p. 290.
• Parke’s Castle (County Leitrim):Once an important citadel in thispart of the country, the now mas-terfully restored castle commandsgreat views over Lough Gill.Exhibits demonstrate the life andactivities of castle inhabitants, andthe teashop serves up someadmirable pastries. See p. 446.
• Carrickfergus Castle (CountyAntrim): This fortress on the bankof Belfast Lough is the best-pre-served Norman castle in Ireland.It consists of an imposing towerhouse and high wall punctuatedby corner towers. See p. 521.
• Dunluce Castle (County Antrim):The castle ruins stand atop arazor-sharp promontory juttinginto the sea. This was no doubt ahighly defensible setting, and thecastle wasn’t abandoned until alarge section collapsed and fellinto the breakers one day in 1639.See p. 530.
9 The Best of Ancient Ireland• Newgrange (County Meath):
Poised atop a low hill north of theRiver Boyne, Newgrange is thecenterpiece of a dramatic mega-lithic cemetery dating from more
than 5,000 years ago. Archaeologi-cal speculation is that this massive,heart-shaped mound and passagetomb was constructed as a com-munal vault to house the cremated
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remains of the dead. The tomb’snarrow passage is so perfectlyaligned with the equinoctial sun-rise that the central chamber, deepwithin the mound, is marvelouslyilluminated at each year’s wintersolstice. See p. 206.
• Loughcrew (County Meath): Atthis little-known site, not far fromNewgrange, a series of cruciformpassage tombs crown two hills.On the east hill, a guide unlocksthe door to one of the domedtombs, answering your questionswith an individuality not possibleat the larger, more populous sites.Better yet, take a hike up the westhill to a second, more solitaryseries of tombs where the connec-tions to be made between ruinand imaginative reconstructionare your own. See p. 206.
• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Ofritual significance from the StoneAge to the Christian period, Tarahas seen it all and kept it all a secret.This was the traditional center andseat of Ireland’s high kings, whocould look out from here and sur-vey their realm. Although it’s only156m (512 ft.) above sea level,from the Tara hill you can see eachof Ireland’s four Celtic provinces ona clear day. The site is mostly unex-cavated and tells its story in whis-pers. It’s a place to be walkedslowly, with an imagination steepedin Ireland’s past. See p. 205.
• Lough Gur (County Limerick):This fascinating lakefront archae-ological site will convince you that
the Neolithic farmers of Irelandhad an estimable sense of realestate. Inhabited for more than4,000 years, this ancient farmingsettlement offers a number of pre-historic remains, the most impres-sive of which is the largestsurviving stone circle in Ireland,consisting of 113 stones. There’sfree access to the site, so bypass thelackluster museum and explore onyour own. See entry for LoughGur Visitor Centre on p. 363.
• Dun Aengus (County Galway):No one knows who built this mas-sive stone fort, or when. The emi-nent archaeologist George Petriecalled Dun Aengus “the most mag-nificent barbaric monument inEurope.” Facing the sea, where itsthree stone rings meet steep 61m(200-ft.) cliffs, Dun Aengus standsguard today over the southerncoast of the island of Inishmor, thelargest of the Arans. See p. 422.
• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel(County Sligo): Located on theCoolera Peninsula, these twomegalithic cities of the dead mayhave once contained well over200 passage tombs. The twotogether, Carrowmore in a valleyand Carrowkeel atop a nearbymountain, convey an unequaledsense of the scale and wonder ofthe ancient megalithic peoples’ rev-erence for the dead. Carrowmore iswell presented and interpreted,while Carrowkeel is left to itselfand to those who seek it out. Seep. 446 and p. 442.
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10 Remnants of the Golden Age:The Best Early Christian Ruins
• Glendalough (County Wicklow):Nestled in “the glen of the twolakes,” this important monasticsettlement was founded in the 6thcentury by St. Kevin. Its setting isdisarmingly scenic—exactly the
opposite of the harsh environmentyou’d expect ascetic medievalmonks to have sought out.Although quite remote, Glen-dalough suffered numerous assaultsby the Vikings and the English,
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and it eventually dwindled intoinsignificance. Today its pictur-esque ruins collude with the coun-tryside to create one of the loveliestspots in Ireland. See p. 182.
• The Rock of Cashel (County Tip-perary): In both appearance andname (cashel or caiseal means“fortress” in Irish), “the Rock” sug-gests a citadel, a place more familiarwith power than prayer. Physically,it is a huge outcropping—or ratherupcropping—of limestone toppedwith some of the most spectacularruins in Ireland, including whatwas once the country’s finestRomanesque chapel. Socially, theplace was in former times the seatof clerics and kings, a center to rivalTara. Now, however, the two sitesvie only for tourists. See p. 248.
• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kil-kenny): Jerpoint is perhaps thefinest representative of the manyCistercian abbeys whose ruins dotthe Irish landscape. Visitors aredrawn to Jerpoint’s splendid clois-ter, the most richly carved in Ire-land, and its impressive tombsculptures. The abbey’s tower isthe tallest of its kind in Ireland.See p. 261.
• Skellig Michael (County Kerry):This stunning crag of rock, dedi-cated to the Archangel Michael,stands 13km (8 miles) offshore ofthe Iveragh Peninsula and risessharply 218m (714 ft.) out of theAtlantic. Early Irish monks in pur-suit of self-imposed hardship and
exile chose this spot to build theiraustere hermitage. Today, thejourney to Skellig across choppyseas and the arduous climb to itssummit are challenging andunforgettable. See p. 316.
• Inishmurray (County Sligo): Thisuninhabited island nearly 6.5km(4 miles) off the Sligo coast ishome to a striking monastic com-plex, surrounded by what appearto be the walls of an even moreancient stone fort. Despite itsremoteness, this outpost of peace-seeking monks was sought out fordestruction by the Vikings in A.D.802. Today its circular ruins andthe surrounding sea present a stun-ning sight, well worth the effortrequired to reach it. See p. 444.
• Clonmacnois (County Offaly):This was once one of Ireland’s mostimportant religious, artistic, andliterary centers, a place of pilgrim-age and high culture. Founded inthe mid–5th century at the axis ofthe Shannon River and themedieval east-west thoroughfareknown as the Eiscir Riada, Clon-macnois thrived for centuries untilits prime riverfront location nearlyproved its undoing. In the 830s,Vikings sailed up the Shannonfrom Limerick and brought ahavoc that returned many times inthe ensuing centuries. Today, evenin ruins, Clonmacnois remains aplace of peculiar beauty and seren-ity. See p. 491.
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11 The Best Literary Spots• Newman House (Dublin): Cardi-
nal John Henry Newman was thefirst rector of the Catholic Univer-sity in Dublin, housed in twobuildings on St. Stephen’s Greenin the center of the city’s southside, and worked in this capacityfrom 1852 to his retirement in
1859. The Catholic Universitylater became University CollegeDublin, and it is to this institutionthat Gerard Manley Hopkins wassent in 1884, as a professor ofGreek; after 5 years of teachinghere, Hopkins died at the age of
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44. James Joyce studied here from1899 to 1902. See p. 144.
• Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin):Besides being the setting for part ofthe sixth episode of Ulysses, this isthe resting place of Joyce’s parentsand several other members of hisfamily. The English-born poet Ger-ard Manley Hopkins is also buriedhere, in the Jesuit plot. MaudGonne, the Irish nationalist andlongtime Dublin resident who issaid to have inspired Yeats’s playCathleen ní Houlihan, is buried inthe Republican plot. See p. 146.
• North Dublin: The streets northof the Liffey are home to many ofthe characters in James Joyce’s sto-ries and novels; this is a part ofDublin in which Joyce himselflived and for which he had a specialaffinity. Much has changed sinceJoyce’s time, and Bloom’s house at7 Eccles Street has been replaced bya new wing of the Mater PrivateHospital, but there are still manymementos of the city as it was in1904. Tours of the area begin fromthe James Joyce Centre. See “See-ing the Sights” in chapter 4.
• County Sligo: It seems at timesthat every hill, house, and lake inthe county is signposted to noteits relation to the poet W. B. Yeats,
whose writing was informed bythe landscape, mythology, andpeople of this region. Many of thenatural and historic monumentsof Sligo appear in Yeats’s poetry,including Lough Gill, GlencarLake, Benbulben Mountain, andMaeve’s tomb atop KnocknareaMountain. There are also severalmuseums housing first editions,photographs, and other memora-bilia, and of course Yeats’s grave inDrumcliffe. See “Sligo & YeatsCountry” in chapter 13.
• The Aran Islands: John Milling-ton Synge set his play Riders to theSea on Inishmaan, and wrote anaccount of life on the islands,titled simply The Aran Islands.Native islander Liam O’Flaherty,known for his novel Famine, isfrom the island of Inishmor. See“The Aran Islands: Inishmor &Inisheer” in chapter 12.
• Legananny Dolmen (CountyDown): This renowned, impressivegranite dolmen (Neolithic tomb)on the southern slope of SlieveCroob is one of the most pho-tographed dolmens in Ireland. Themassive capstone seems almostweightlessly poised on its threesupporting uprights. See p. 523.
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12 The Best Gardens• Powerscourt Gardens (County
Wicklow): This is one of the mostgrandiose of Irish gardens, setamidst the natural splendor of thenorthern Wicklow Hills, yet it’sonly 19km (12 miles) from Dublin.The gardens and nearby waterfallmake a great day’s outing and a wel-come respite from the noise andcongestion of the city. See p. 187.
• Kilruddery House & Gardens(County Wicklow): A grandioseformal garden whose initial plan
was laid out in the 17th century,Killruddery’s appeal lies in placeslike the beech hedge pond and theornamental dairy. The house is alsofull of curious treasures. See p. 187.
• Butterstream Gardens (CountyMeath): Butterstream is renownedfor its splendor, spring and sum-mer. It is a series of delightful gar-den compartments whose varietyattests to the skill of its designer,Jim Reynolds. His manipulationof floral color and texture yields
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spectacular results, from an aus-tere white garden to the floral fire-works of brilliant herbaceousborders. See p. 205.
• Altamount Gardens (CountyCarlow): Altamount is a sumptu-ous garden. Lush plantings set upa sequence leading from a formalgarden to a rugged forest, rock-walled glen, and riverbank walk.See p. 185.
• Creagh Gardens (County Cork):Meandering paths lead the visitorpast a sequence of exquisite vistas,with many hidden corners toexplore. The garden is situated ona beautiful estuary. See p. 301.
• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferryconveys visitors from a lovely, rho-dodendron-rimmed bay in thetown of Glangarriff to GarinishIsland, the unlikely site of a fineItalianate garden. The formal garden, with the Casita at its cen-ter, is linked to a “wild garden”that showcases a collection of
rhododendrons, azaleas, and raretrees. See p. 302.
• Heywood Garden (CountyLaois): Heywood is one of justfour gardens in Ireland designedby English architect EdwardLutyens. Its rows of lime trees,tall iron fountain, and walledgarden create a tranquil enclavein a countryside that is alreadycalm, green, and soft. The housefor which Heywood was built hasburned down; nevertheless, thegarden recalls its elegance. See p. 494.
• Mount Stewart House (CountyDown): This 18th-century houseon the eastern shore of StrangfordLough may be noteworthy for itsart collection, but it’s the world-class gardens, with their unrivaledcollection of rare and unusualplants, that has earned it a nomi-nation as a potential World Her-itage Site. See p. 524.
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13 The Best Attractions for the Whole Family• The Ark: A Cultural Centre for
Children (County Dublin): Aunique chance for kids to have ahands-on learning experience ofart, music, and theater in work-shop sessions with artists. Thereare also excellent theater produc-tions for families. See p. 147.
• Dublin’s Viking Adventure(County Dublin): This is a funlearning experience where kidscan travel back in time and be partof Viking life with “real Vikings,”while working and interacting in amodel Norse town on the actualsite where the Vikings made theirhome in Dublin. See p. 148.
• Dublin Zoo (County Dublin):Kids love this 12-hectare (30-acre)zoo with its array of creatures, ani-mal-petting corner, and train ride.
The surrounding park has roomto run, picnic, and explore forhours (or days!). See p. 149.
• Irish National Heritage Park(County Wexford): Nearly 9,000years of Irish history come alivehere in ways that will fascinate vis-itors of every age. The whole fam-ily will be captivated by the storyof ancient Ireland, from its firstinhabitants to its Norman con-querors. See p. 219.
• Fota Island Wildlife Park &Arboretum (County Cork): Thisisn’t any ordinary zoo. Whereverpossible the animals roam free withno obvious barriers, while mixedwith other species and with ushuman visitors. Rare and endan-gered animals have the run of 16hectares (40 acres) of grassland. A
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coffee shop, a small amusementpark for young children, a tourtrain, picnic tables, and a gift shopare on the grounds. See p. 298.
• Muckross House & Gardens(County Kerry): This stunningVictorian mansion with exquisitegardens is also home to skilledartisans at their work. Nearby is aseries of reconstructed traditionalfarms, complete with animals anddocents, providing a gateway torural Ireland as it was for cen-turies. See p. 329.
• Fungie the Dolphin Tours(County Kerry): Every day, fishingboats ferry visitors out into DingleBay to see Fungie, the friendliestdolphin you’re ever likely to meet.
Fungie really does swim up to theboat, and the boatmen stay outlong enough for ample sightings.You can even arrange an early-morning dolphin swim. See p. 342.
• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): Kids are enthralledby this great restored medieval cas-tle and re-created 19th-century vil-lage. It’s complete with a schooland loaded with active craftspeople.See p. 371.
• Marble Arch Caves (County Fer-managh): Adventurous familiesare guided by boat through well-lit underground waterways toexplore caves and view amazingstone formations. See p. 559.
T H E B E S T P U B S 17
14 The Best Pubs• Abbey Tavern (County Dublin):
A short outing from Dublin cen-ter, the Abbey Tavern is the per-fect place to recover and refuelafter exploring Howth Head, Ire-land’s Eye, and the attractive fish-ing and yachting village of Howthon the northern tip of DublinBay. The Abbey is known far andwide for its ballads as well as itsbrew. See p. 170.
• Brazen Head (County Dublin):Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’sancient sites, the Brazen Head,commissioned by Charles II, ismore than 300 years old, and itsstout is as fresh as it comes. Amongits illustrious alums are Wolfe Tone,Daniel O’Connell, and RobertEmmet, who planned the Dublinrising of 1803 under the Head’s lowtimbers. In fact, he was hanged notfar from here when everything wentwrong. See p. 165.
• The Long Valley (County Cork):For anyone who knows and lovesCork, this is a place of pilgrimage.One endless, low-slung room witha bar running its full length, doors
taken from an ocean liner, barmenin white butchers’ coats, and aselection of delectable sandwiches.A little slice of heaven. See p. 286.
• An Bodhran (County Cork): Ahangout for UCC (University Col-lege Cork) students serious abouttheir traditional music and stout,An Bodhran has a lot of old-stylecharacter, which recent renovationshave only enhanced. See p. 285.
• McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin,a dot of a town on the Clare Coast,is a magnet for traditional Irishmusicians—and is consequently awonderful spot to hear impromptusessions of Irish music. Gus O’Con-nor’s, down the road, is morefamous (but also thicker withtourists); McGann’s remains thegenuine article without the hype.See p. 382.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway): Famed for its seafood,this centuries-old thatched-cottagepub on the weir also draws a per-fect pint. This may well be the oys-ter capitol of Ireland. It’s 19km(12 miles) out of Galway and well
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worth the drive—or the walk, forthat matter. See p. 419.
• Smuggler’s Creek (County Done-gal): This place would be worth a stop if only for its spectacularcliff-top views of Donegal Bay.Stone walls, beamed ceilings, openfires, excellent fare, and the brewthat’s true are among the charmsproprietor Conor Britton has ontap. See p. 462.
• Hargadon’s (County Sligo): This isthe epitome of the Irish pub. Con-versation and the gentle sipping
of Guinness reign supreme here: notelevisions, radios, or stereos disruptan atmosphere of quiet enjoymenthoned over more than 100 yearsof pulling pints. See p. 450.
• Crown Liquor Saloon (CountyAntrim): This National Trust pub,across from the Grand OperaHouse in Belfast, is a Victoriangem. Your mouth will drop openat its antique publican splendoreven before you lift your first pint.See p. 519.
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15 The Best Restaurants You Can Afford• Aya @ Brown Thomas (County
Dublin; & 01/677-1544): Thisbuzzy, fashionable annex toDublin’s poshest department store(actually, it’s just across the streeton Clarendon St.) is very much agood-time destination for chicDubliners, with its conveyor-beltsushi bar. Bypass the table seating(where the a la carte menu ispricier) and head straight for thebar for afternoon “Happy Time”specials. See p. 123.
• Mimo Cafe (County Dublin;& 01/674-6712): This chic littlecafe in the tony PowerscourtTownhouse shopping minimall isa wonderfully classy and surpris-ingly budget-minded place to stopfor terrific salads, pasta dishes, andinventive sandwiches. A pianoplayer is a civilized touch onThursday and Friday afternoons.See p. 126.
• Adele’s (County Cork; & 028/28459): This unassuming eatery onMain Street in Schull is a bakeryduring the day, serving great sand-wiches of herbed Italian bread anddelicious local cheese. The real rev-elation comes in the evening, whenyou can come here for meals thatare simple and astonishingly good.See p. 311.
• Purple Heather (County Kerry;& 064/41016): This lovely littleeatery is the place to lunch incharming Kenmare. The food is allabout tearoom classics with a gour-met twist—wild smoked salmonor prawn salad, smoked trout pâté,vegetarian omelets, and Irishcheese platters, as well as home-made soups. See p. 324.
• Da Tang Noodle House (CountyGalway; & 091/561443): Spicy,Spicy, spicy. This is where the localsslip in if they want a quick bite inGalway. Steaming bowls of noodlesare spiked with cilantro and chile,and you won’t want to put downyour chopsticks until you’veslurped up every bit. See p. 407.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway; & 091/796113): A shortdrive from Galway center, thisseafood mecca is worth a drivefrom Dublin. For six generations,the Morans have focused on whatthey know and do best, and have amenu—the same menu, all dayand every day, featuring seafoodand nothing but—that brings thepoint home. You may not findbetter oysters and salmon any-where, and surely not at theseprices. See p. 419.
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16 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Eat• One Pico (County Dublin; & 01/
676-0300): Eamonn O’Reilly’sflagship venture is a sophisticated,grown-up, classy place, with excel-lent service and fantastic food.Expect surprising combinations oftastes and textures, and a verymemorable meal. See p. 129.
• The Motte (County Kilkenny):Slow delectation is the requirementat the Motte. Everything demandsit—from the dimly glowing diningroom to the thoughtful staff andthe exquisitely prepared food. ChefAlan Walton’s concoctions of creamand fresh herbs and rich darkchocolate desserts defy speed, mak-ing a delicious, lingering eveningthe only real possibility. See p. 267.
• Jacob’s On the Mall (County Cork; & 021/425-1530): Housedin what was once the city’s old Turk-ish bathhouse, this eatery, showcas-ing Mercy Fenton’s confident,harmonious cooking, is the talk ofthe town. The place is truly lovely,with tall windows flooding the din-ing room with light. See p. 279.
• Lettercollum House (CountyCork): The emphasis here is on
fresh, local, and organic ingredi-ents; a walled garden provides thevegetables, and pigs are raised onthe premises. With these finematerials, chef Con McLoughlinconcocts dishes of pure delight,simple yet surprising. There’salways a vegetarian entree, too.See p. 313.
• The Chart House (CountyKerry; & 066/915-2255): In thisinviting bistro, everyone comesfor Laura Boyce’s confident, sim-ple cooking. Think wonderfulcomfort food with a flair—thekind of food you never tire of.And the service is, as the Irishwould say, “spot on.” See p. 349.
• Brown’s Bar and Brasserie(County Derry; & 028/7134-5180): Behind the unassumingexterior of this Waterside-area rowhouse, you will find some of thefinest food in Derry City. Theinnovative menu blends the bestof modern Irish, Italian, and Thaiinfluences with an emphasis onfresh and, when possible, organicingredients. See p. 550.
17 The Best B&Bs• Lennoxbrook Country House
(County Meath; & 046/45902):Lennoxbrook is a thoughtful, well-crafted place. The rooms are beauti-ful, with bay windows overlookinga tangled forest and a magnificentbeech tree. Guests are invited topull up a chair in the Mullan familysitting room. See p. 208.
• Buggy’s Glencairn Inn (CountyWaterford; & 058/56232): Kenand Cathleen Buggy have anincredible talent for getting thedetails right. Their guest roomsare chock-full of covetable auc-tion finds, the beds are like some-thing out of a fairy tale, and the
restaurant is a foodie’s destinationin itself. See p. 243.
• Seven North Mall Guesthouse(County Cork; & 021/439-7191):This lovely waterside town houseguesthouse has attained cult statusamong travelers who know CorkCity well. It dates from 1750exudes an atmosphere of relaxationand elegant understatement. Seep. 276.
• Ballinatona Farm (County Cork):Set in a quiet and underrated cor-ner of West Cork, this modernfarmhouse commands astonishingviews of the surrounding hills. JytteStorm and Tim Lane, the energetic
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and outgoing hosts, will directyou to the Coomeenatrush Water-fall and other beautiful spotswithin walking distance of thehouse. See p. 306.
• The Captain’s House (CountyKerry; & 066/915-1531): Youwon’t get better value for themoney in Dingle. Jim and MaryMilhench own and run thisfriendly, dapper little B&B rightsmack in the middle of town.Everything here is done with aneye for orderly, shipshape detailand the breakfasts are outstand-ing. See p. 346.
• Rosturk Woods (County Mayo;& 098/36264): Though it’s well-located on the road between New-port and Achill Island, you won’trealize how close it is to the seauntil you reach the end of the longdriveway. Rooms are spacious,prettily decorated, and very com-fortable, with king-size beds andpower showers in the bathrooms.See p. 394.
• Bruckless House (County Done-gal; & 074/973-7071): This mid-18th-century farmhouse, restoredwith impeccable taste, has manycharms, including award-winninggardens and a stable of Connemaraponies. Spacious, welcoming, andcomfortable, Bruckless House feels
like home (or better) after only avery short time. See p. 467.
• Rhu-Gorse (County Donegal;& 074/972-1685): The views ofLough Eske from this eminentlycomfortable modern guesthouseare not to be believed. If you havethe makings of a convert to Done-gal, it will happen here. See p. 457.
• Ross Castle and House (CountyCavan; & 049/854-0237): Atower room in a centrally heatedhaunted castle—with what’s likelythe longest bathtub you’ve everseen—awaits you at Ross Castle.It won’t take too big a bite out ofyour wallet, either. It might not beelegance, but it is unquestionablymemorable. Warm, comfortableRoss Castle and nearby RossHouse are great places to relaxbeside Lough Sheelin, a notewor-thy source of trout and pike. Seep. 499.
• Slieve Croob Inn (County Down;& 028/4377-1412): Whether youwant to drop anchor and set up ahome away from home in a self-catering cottage or just spend anight in a magically stunning land-scape, it doesn’t get much betterthan this perfectly tasteful hide-away in the magical Mournes. Seep. 539.
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18 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Stay• Molesworth Court Suites (County
Dublin; & 01/676-4799): Hatehotels? Then consider an apart-ment. Tucked away behind Man-sion House, Molesworth Courts is5 minutes on foot to StephensGreen and yet is country quiet.These tastefully decorated, verycomfortable apartments offereverything you need to set up yourown base in Dublin, whether for anight or a week. See p. 115.
• Ballinkeele House (County Wex-ford; & 053/38105): This grandIrish manor B&B, built in 1840and in the Maher family for fourgenerations now, is a wonderfulplace to appreciate Irish country-house living. Rooms are old fash-ioned in the grandest sort of way,with four-poster or half-testerbeds and period touches every-where. See p. 229.
• Iskeroon (County Kerry; 066/947-5119): David and Geraldine
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Hare’s wonderfully light, CapeCod–style B&B has an arrestinglybeautiful setting in a 1.8-hectare(41⁄2-acre) tropical garden overlook-ing the sailboats of DerrynaneHarbour and the Skelligs beyond.It’s got the best of both worlds:tranquil and yet just short walkaway to the beach or a lovely pubor the pier, for island cruises.Breakfasts are excellent, here, too.See p. 321.
• Delphi Lodge (County Galway;& 095/42222): This was once thecountry hideaway for the marquisof Sligo, and now it can be yours,too. Inside, the emphasis is onclean, bright simplicity in perfecttaste, while outside the grounds andenvirons are among the most beau-tiful in Ireland. Tranquillity, com-fort, and fishing are the operative
words here. By renting one of thecottages for a week or more, youcan make this indulgence moreaffordable. See p. 435.
• Temple House (County Sligo;& 071/918-3329): The house isset on the shores of Temple HouseLake, on an estate of some 400hectares (1,000 acres), with a gor-geous walled garden and elaboratecoach houses. Sandy Percival’sfamily has lived in Temple Housefor more than 300 years, andSandy has many a story to tell oftheir exploits. The evening meal,prepared by Deborah Percival, is amemorable experience. The atmos-phere of casual elegance and affableunpretentiousness is truly seduc-tive, and chances are you’ll wantto spend more than one night. Seep. 450.
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