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The Best of Alaska
As a child, when my family traveled outside Alaska for vacations, I often metother children who asked, “Wow, you live in Alaska? What’s it like?” I never didwell with that question. To me, the place I was visiting was far simpler and eas-ier to describe than the one I was from. The Lower 48 seemed a fairly homoge-neous land of freeways and fast food, a well-mapped network of establishedplaces. Alaska, on the other hand, wasn’t even completely explored. Naturalforces of vast scale and subtlety were still shaping the land in their own way,inscribing a different story on each of an infinite number of unexpected places.Each region, whether populated or not, was unique far beyond my ability toexplain. Alaska was so large and new, so unconquered and exquisitely real, as todefy summation.
In contrast to many places you might choose to visit, it’s Alaska’s unformednewness that makes it so interesting and fun. Despite the best efforts of tourplanners, the most memorable parts of a visit are unpredictable and often unex-pected: a humpback whale leaping clear of the water, the face of a glacier releas-ing huge ice chunks, a bear feasting on salmon in a river, a huge salmonchomping onto your line. You can look at totem poles and see Alaska Native cultural demonstrations, and you can also get to know indigenous people whostill live by traditional ways. And sometimes grand, quiet moments come, andthose are the ones that endure most deeply.
As the writer of this guidebook, I aim to help you get to places where you mayencounter what’s new, real, and unexpected. Opening yourself to those experi-ences is your job, but it’s an effort that’s likely to pay off. Although I have livedhere all my life, I often envy the stories visitors tell me about the Alaskan placesthey have gone to and what happened there. No one owns Alaska, and most ofus are newcomers here. In all this immensity, a visitor fresh off the boat is justas likely as a lifelong resident to see or do something amazing.
1 The Best Views
1
• A First Sight of Alaska: Flyingnorth from Seattle, you’re inclouds, so you concentrate on abook. When you look up, thelight from the window haschanged. Down below, the cloudsare gone, and under the wing,where you’re used to seeing roads,cities, and farms on most flights,you see instead only high, snowymountain peaks, without theslightest mark of human presence,
stretching as far as the horizon.Welcome to Alaska.
• Punchbowl Cove (Misty FjordsNational Monument): A sheergranite cliff rises smooth andimplacable 3,150 feet straight upfrom the water. A pair of baldeagles wheels and soars across itsface, providing the only sense ofscale. They look the size of gnats.See p. 104.
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COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
• From the Chugach MountainsOver Anchorage, at Sunset: Thecity sparkles below, on the edge ofan orange-reflecting Cook Inlet,far below the mountainside whereyou stand. Beyond the pink andpurple silhouettes of mountainson the other side of the inlet, thesun is spraying warm, dying lightinto puffs of clouds. And yet it’smidnight. See “Getting Outside”in chapter 6.
• Mount McKinley from the Air(Denali National Park): Your bushpilot guides his plane up from theflatlands of Talkeetna into a realmof eternal white, where a profu-sion of insanely rugged peaks risesin higher relief than any otherspot on earth. After circling a 3-mile-high wall and slipping
through a mile-deep canyon, youland on a glacier, get out of theplane, and for the first time realizethe overwhelming scale of it all.See “Attractions & Activities Out-side the Park” and “Talkeetna:Back Door to Denali” in chapter 8.
• The Northern Lights (Alaska’sInterior): Blue, purple, green, andred lines spin from the center ofthe sky, draping long tendrils ofslow-moving light. Bright, flash-ing, sky-covering waves washacross the dome of stars like rip-ples driven by a gust of wind on apond. Looking around, you seethat your companions’ faces arerosy in a silver, snowy night, allgazing straight up with theirmouths open. See p. 364.
T H E B E S T A L A S K A C R U I S E S 5
2 The Best Alaska CruisesCruises provide comfortable, leisurelyaccess to the Inside Passage and theGulf of Alaska. Here are some of thebest bets. See chapter 4 for details.
• Best Up-Close Alaska Experi-ence: Glacier Bay Cruiseline’sWilderness Adventurer and Wilder-ness Explorer sail itineraries thatshun overcrowded port towns infavor of wilderness areas and smallfishing villages. Both carry seakayaks for off-ship exploration,and both feature naturalist-ledhikes as central features of theexperience. The line is owned byan Alaska Native corporation andthe ships are small (carrying 74and 36 passengers, respectively)and very casual. They’re not fancy,but that’s the point—it’s wherethey take you that counts.
• Most Comfortable Small Ships:Cruise West’s Spirit of Endeavorand Spirit of ’98 (a 19th-c. coastalsteamer re-creation) and Clipper’sYorktown Clipper offer a higherlevel of comfort than the other
small ships in Alaska while stillgiving you an intimate, casual, up-close small-ship experience.
• Most Luxurious Big Ships: Crys-tal Harmony is the top-of-the-lineship in the Alaska market, withsuperb cuisine, elegant service,lovely surroundings, great cabins,and sparkling entertainment. Ifyou want a more casual kind ofluxury, Radisson Seven Seas’ SevenSeas Mariner (which is slightlysmaller than the Harmony) offersjust that. Among the mainstreamcruise ships, Celebrity’s Mercury,Infinity, and Summit are the bigwinners, offering cutting-edgemodern ships with great service,dining, and design.
• Best Cruisetours: Holland Amer-ica Line and Princess are the lead-ers in linking cruises with landtours into the Interior, eitherbefore or after your cruise. Theyown their own hotels, deluxemotor coaches, and railcars, andafter many years in the business,
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A6
KenaiANCHORAGE
Juneau
Wrangell
Skagway
Petersburg
Haines
Whitehorse,Yukon
Cordova
Kodiak
Whittier
PalmerWasilla
Tok
DeltaJunction
ManleyHot Springs
Nenana
Talkeetna
Willow
Bettles
Soldotna
Seward
Kotzebue
Dillingham
KingSalmon
Unalakleet
Galena
McGrath
YUKON
BRITISHCOLUMBIA
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
a
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
a
Admiralty IslandNational Monument
Kenai FjordsNational Park
Cape KrusensternNational Monument
Arctic NationalWildlife Refuge
Nome
ColdBay
DutchHarbor
Atka
Adak
Bering Sea
Attu Island
Adak IslandAtka Island
UnimakIsland
Rat IslandsCapeSt. Stephen
sdnalsInaituelA
NunivakIsland
PribilofIslands
ChukchiSea
NortonSound
BristolBay
A l a s k a
P e n i n s u l a
BethelBethelBethel
Eagle
Coldfoot
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
elcriCcitcrA
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
Fort GlenFort Glen
P A C I F I C
AnaktuvukPass
Dal
ton
Hw
y.
364
619
Uni
ted
Stat
es
Anchorage
Circle
Eagle
Fairbanks
Haines
Homer
Prudhoe Bay
Seward
Skagway
Tok
An
cho
rag
e
Cir
cle
Eag
le
Fair
ban
ks
Daw
son
Cit
y
Hai
nes
Ho
mer
Pru
dh
oe
Bay
Sew
ard
Seat
tle
Skag
way
Tok
Val
dez
MILEAGECHART
520
501
358
775
226
847
126
832
328
304
520
541
162
815
746
1972
646
872
368
526
501
541
379
620
727
868
627
579
173
427
358
162
379
653
584
489
484
710
206
364
775
815
620
653
1001
1142
901
359
447
701
226
746
727
584
1001
1073
173
1058
554
530
847
1972
868
489
1142
1843
2271
1073
973
1199
695
853
126
646
627
484
901
173
973
958
454
2169
872
758
328
368
173
206
447
554
695
454
504
304
526
427
Dawson City 494 530 379131 548 713 868 619 430 189 428
701
530
853
430
430
Seattle 2243 2271 1974
494
530
379
548
713
868
430
189
428
131
1843 2121 1774 2455 2610 2493
832
579
710
359
1058
1199
958
504
254
1577
1577
2234
1974
2121
1774
2455
2610
2493
1931
1931 2169
758
254
Approximate driving distances in miles
between cities.
Valdez
Halibut CoveHomer
Katmai NationalPark and Preserve
UnalaskaUnalaska
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Prince Rupert,B.C.
Misty FjordsNational Monument
KetchikanCraig
Sitka
Gustavus
LittleDiomedeIsland
Lake Clark NationalPark and Preserve
Mt. McKinley
DenaliNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeNational Preserve
Noatak NationalPreserve
Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Fort Yukon
Circle
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
Refuge
FairbanksNorth Pole
McCarthyWrangell–St. EliasNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenWrangell Mts.
Kobuk ValleyNational Park
C A N A D A
Valdez
Dawson City,Yukon
ChenaHot Springs Yukon-Charley Rivers
National Preserve
Dempste
r Hw
y.
Unalaska
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Alaska
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T H E B E S T A L A S K A C R U I S E S 7
Coo
kIn
let
�
�Yakutat
KenaiKenaiANCHORAGEANCHORAGE
JuneauJuneau
WrangellWrangell
SkagwaySkagway
PetersburgPetersburg
HainesHaines
Whitehorse,Whitehorse,YukonYukon
CordovaCordova
KodiakKodiak
WhittierWhittier
PalmerPalmerWasillaWasilla
TokTok
DeltaDeltaJunctionJunction
ManleyManleyHot SpringsHot Springs
NenanaNenana
TalkeetnaTalkeetna
WillowWillow
BettlesBettles
SoldotnaSoldotna
SewardSeward
KotzebueKotzebue
DillinghamDillingham
KingKingSalmonSalmon
UnalakleetUnalakleet
GalenaGalena
McGrathMcGrath
YUKONYUKONYUKON
BRITISHBRITISHCOLUMBIACOLUMBIA
BRITISHCOLUMBIA
Uni
ted
Stat
esU
nite
d St
ates
Can
ada
Can
ada
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
a
Uni
ted
Stat
esU
nite
d St
ates
Can
ada
Can
ada
Can
ada
Admiralty IslandAdmiralty IslandNational MonumentNational Monument
Kenai FjordsKenai FjordsNational ParkNational Park
Cape KrusensternCape KrusensternNational MonumentNational Monument
Arctic NationalArctic NationalWildlife RefugeWildlife Refuge
Deadhorse
Barrow
Kodiak Island
Admiralty IslandBaranof Island
Chichagof Island
Prince of Wales Island
Arctic Ocean
Gulf of Alaska
PrinceWilliamSound
PrudhoeBay
Beaufort Sea
To Seattle
Glacier Bay NationalPark and Preserve
Aniakchak NationalMonument and Preserve
7
2
46
4
11
1
1Bethel
Juneau
Wrangell
Skagway
Petersburg
Haines
Whitehorse,Yukon
PalmerWasilla
Tok
DeltaJunction
EagleEagleEagleManley
Hot SpringsNenana
Talkeetna
Willow
BettlesColdfootColdfootColdfoot
Kotzebue
Dillingham
KingSalmon
Unalakleet
Galena
McGrath
Admiralty IslandNational Monument
Kenai FjordsNational Park
Cape KrusensternNational Monument
Arctic NationalWildlife Refuge
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
elcriCcitcrA
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
elcriCcitcrA
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
Fort Glen
Alaska MarineHighway
O C E A N
AnaktuvukAnaktuvukPassPass
Dal
ton
Hw
y.D
alto
n H
wy.
Dal
ton
Hw
y.
AnaktuvukPass
Uni
ted
Stat
esU
nite
d St
ates
Uni
ted
Stat
esU
nite
d St
ates
100 Mi0
0 100 KmN
1
Paved RoadState or Provincial Route
Unpaved RoadFerry
KenaiANCHORAGE
Soldotna
Halibut CoveHalibut CoveHomerHomer
Katmai NationalKatmai NationalPark and PreservePark and Preserve
Unalaska
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Prince Rupert,Prince Rupert,B.C.B.C.
Misty FjordsMisty FjordsNational MonumentNational Monument
KetchikanKetchikanCraigCraig
SitkaSitka
GustavusGustavus
Lake Clark NationalLake Clark NationalPark and PreservePark and Preserve
Mt. McKinleyMt. McKinley
DenaliDenaliNational ParkNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeBering Land BridgeNational PreserveNational Preserve
Noatak NationalNoatak NationalPreservePreserve
Gates of the ArcticGates of the ArcticNational Park and PreserveNational Park and Preserve
Fort YukonFort Yukon
CircleCircle
Yukon FlatsYukon FlatsNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
FairbanksFairbanksNorth PoleNorth Pole
1
McCarthyMcCarthyWrangellWrangell–St. EliasSt. EliasNational Park and PreserveNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenGlennallenWrangell Mts.
Kobuk ValleyKobuk ValleyNational ParkNational Park
C A N A D AC A N A D A
ValdezValdez10
8
2
5
Dawson City,Dawson City,YukonYukon
ChenaChenaHot SpringsHot Springs
9
34
8
Yukon-Charley RiversYukon-Charley RiversNational PreserveNational Preserve
6
Dempste
r Hw
y.
Dempste
r Hw
y.
5
Prince Rupert,B.C.
KetchikanCraig
Misty FjordsNational Monument
Sitka
Gustavus
CordovaWhittier
Seldovia
Seward
Halibut CoveHomer
Kodiak
Katmai NationalPark and Preserve
Lake Clark NationalPark and Preserve
Mt. McKinley
DenaliNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeNational Preserve
Kobuk ValleyNational Park
Noatak NationalPreserve
Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Fort Yukon
ChenaHot Springs
Circle
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
Refuge
FairbanksNorth Pole
McCarthyWrangell–St. EliasNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenWrangell Mts.
C A N A D AYukon-Charley RiversNational Preserve
Valdez
Dawson City,Yukon
Dempste
r Hw
y.
05_57146x ch01.qxd 10/22/04 9:28 AM Page 7
they both really know what they’redoing. Princess concentrates more on the Anchorage/Denali/Fairbanks routes, while Holland
America has many itineraries thatget you to the Yukon Territory’sDawson City and Whitehorse.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A8
3 The Best GlaciersMore of Alaska—more than 100 timesmore—is covered by glacier ice than issettled by human beings.
• Grand Pacific Glacier (GlacierBay National Park): Two vast gla-ciers of deep blue meet at the topof an utterly barren fjord. Theyrubbed and creased the gray rockbelow for thousands of yearsbefore just recently releasing it tothe air again. Three intimidatingwalls of ice surround boats thatpull close to the glaciers. See“Glacier Bay National Park” inchapter 5.
• Childs Glacier (Cordova): Outthe Copper River Highway fromCordova, this is a participatoryglacier-viewing experience. Theglacier is cut by the Copper River,which is 1⁄4 mile broad; standing onthe opposite shore (unless you’reup in the viewing tower), you haveto be ready to run like hell whenthe creaking, popping ice gives
way and a huge berg falls into theriver, potentially swamping thepicnic area. Even when the glacierisn’t calving, you can feel the ice groaning in your gut. See“Cordova: Hidden Treasure” inchapter 7.
• Exit Glacier (Seward): You candrive near the glacier and walk therest of the way on a gravel path. Ittowers above like a huge bluesculpture, the spires of broken iceclose enough to breathe a freezer-door chill down on watchers. See“Exit Glacier” in section 6 ofchapter 7.
• Western Prince William Sound:On a boat from Whittier, you cansee a couple dozen glaciers in aday. Some of these are the amaz-ing tidewater glaciers that dumphuge, office-building-size spires ofice into the ocean, each setting offa terrific splash and outward-radiating sea wave. See “Whittier:Dock on the Sound” in chapter 7.
4 The Most Beautiful Drives & Train RidesYou’ll find a description of each roadin “Alaska’s Highways a la Carte” on p. 358. Here are some highlights:
• White Pass and Yukon RouteRailway (Skagway to Summit):The narrow-gauge excursion train,sometimes pulled by vintagesteam engines, climbs the steepgrade that was chiseled into thegranite mountains by stampedersto the Klondike gold rush. Thetrain is a sort of mechanicalmountain goat, balancing on tres-tles and steep rock walls far abovedeep gorges. See p. 187.
• Seward Highway/Alaska Rail-road (Anchorage to Seward): Justsouth of Anchorage, the highwayand rail line have been chippedinto the side of the ChugachMountains over the surging graywater of Turnagain Arm. Above,Dall sheep and mountain goatspick their way along the cliffs,within easy sight. Below, whitebeluga whales chase salmonthrough the turbid water. Farthersouth, the route splits and climbsthrough the mountain passes ofthe Kenai Peninsula. See “The
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Seward Highway: A Road Guide”in Chapter 7 for information onthe highway, and p. 258 for infor-mation on this Alaska Railroadroute.
• Denali Highway: Leading east-west through the Alaska Range,the highway crosses terrain thatcould be another Denali NationalPark, full of wildlife and withviews so huge and grand theyseem impossible. See p. 322.
• Richardson Highway: Just out ofValdez heading north, the Richard-son Highway rises quickly fromsea level to more than 2,600 feet,switching back and forth on theside of a mountain. With eachturn, the drop down the impassa-ble slope becomes more amazing.North of Glennallen, the highwayrises again, bursting through thetree line between a series of
mountains and tracing the edgesof long alpine lakes, beforedescending, parallel with the silverskein of the Alaska pipeline, toDelta Junction. See “The Richard-son Highway & Copper Center,”in chapter 9.
• The Roads Around Nome: Youcan’t drive to Nome, but 250miles of gravel roads radiate fromthe Arctic community into tundrathat’s populated only by muskoxen, bear, reindeer, birds, andother wildlife. See p. 428.
• The Dalton Highway: Whenyou’re ready for an expedition—areal wilderness trip by road—theDalton Highway leads from Fair-banks across northern Alaska tothe Arctic Ocean, a mind-blowingdrive through 500 miles of spec-tacular virgin country. See “TheDalton Highway” in chapter 9.
T H E B E S T T I P S F O R C O O K I N G S A L M O N 9
5 The Best FishingThe quality of salmon fishing inAlaska isn’t so much a function ofplace as of time. See p. 39 for infor-mation on how to find the fish whenyou arrive.
• Bristol Bay: This is the world’srichest salmon fishery; lodges onthe remote rivers of the region arean angler’s paradise. See p. 40.
• Copper River Delta, Cordova:The Copper itself is silty with gla-cial runoff, but feeder streams andrivers are rich with trout, DollyVarden, and salmon, with fewother anglers in evidence. See p. 314.
• The Kenai River: The biggestking salmon—up to 98 pounds—come from the swift Kenai River.Big fish are so common in the
second run of kings that there’s aspecial, higher standard for whatmakes a trophy. Silvers and redsadd to a mad, summer-long fish-ing frenzy. See p. 275.
• Homer: Alaska’s largest charter-fishing fleet goes for halibut rang-ing into the hundreds of pounds.See p. 291.
• Unalaska: Beyond the road sys-tem, Unalaska has the biggest hal-ibut. See p. 421.
• Kodiak Island: The bears are sobig here because they live on anisland that’s crammed with spawn-ing salmon in the summer. Kodiakhas the best roadside salmon fish-ing in Alaska, and the remote fishing, at lodges or fly-in streambanks, is legendary. See p. 413.
6 The Best Tips for Cooking SalmonNow that you’ve caught a Pacificsalmon, you need to know how to cookit—or order it in a restaurant—to
avoid spoiling the rich flavor. Tips forgetting your fish home are on p. 292.
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• Freeze As Little As Possible: It’s asad fact that salmon loses some ofits richness and gets more “fishy”as soon as it’s frozen. Eat as muchas you can fresh, because it’ll neverbe better. Ask if the salmon isfresh when you order it in arestaurant. Don’t overlook smok-ing, the traditional Native way ofpreserving fish for the winter. Seep. 292 for information on whereto get your salmon frozen andsmoked.
• Choose the Best Fish: The bestrestaurants advertise where theirsalmon comes from on the menu.In early summer, Copper Riverkings and reds are the richest inflavor; later in the summer, YukonRiver salmon are best. The oil inthe salmon gives it the rich, meatyflavor; the fish from the Copperand Yukon are high in oil content.King, red, and silver salmon arethe only species you should find ina restaurant. Avoid farm-rearedsalmon, which is mushy and fla-vorless compared with wild Alaskasalmon.
• Keep It Simple: When orderingsalmon or halibut in a restaurant,avoid anything with cheese orheavy sauces. When salmon isfresh, it’s best with light seasoning,
perhaps just a little lemon, dillweed, and pepper and salt, orbasted with soy sauce; or withoutanything on it at all, grilled overalder coals.
• Don’t Overcook It: Salmonshould be cooked just until themoment the meat changes colorand becomes flaky through to thebone, or slightly before. A minutemore, and some of the texture andflavor are lost. That’s why thosehuge barbecue salmon bakes oftenare not as good as they shouldbe—it’s too hard to cook hun-dreds of pieces of fish just rightand serve them all hot.
• Fillets, Not Steaks: Salmon is cuttwo ways in Alaska: lengthwise fil-lets or crosswise steaks. The filletis cut with the grain of the flesh,keeping the oil and moisture inthe fish. Do not remove the skinbefore cooking—it holds in theoils, and will fall off easily whenthe fish is done. If you have a largegroup, consider cooking thesalmon bone-in (sometimes calleda roast), stuffing seasonings in thebody cavity. When it’s done, theskin easily peels off and, after eat-ing the first side, you can effort-lessly lift out the skeleton.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A10
7 The Best Bear ViewingThere are many places to see bears inAlaska, but if your goal is to make sureyou see a bear—and potentially lots ofbears—these are the best places:
• Anan Wildlife Observatory:When the fish are running, youcan see many dozens of black bearfeeding in a salmon stream fromclose at hand. Access is easiestfrom Wrangell. See p. 112.
• Pack Creek (Admiralty Island):The brown bears of the island,which is more thickly populatedwith them than anywhere else on
earth, have learned to ignore thedaily visitors who stand on theplatforms at Pack Creek. Access isby air from Juneau. See p. 156.
• Katmai National Park: Duringthe July and September salmonruns, dozens of giant brown bearscongregate around Brooks Camp,where, from wooden platforms afew yards away, you can watch thefull range of their behaviors. Flightservices from Kodiak also bringguests at any time of the summerto see bears dig clams on the park’s
05_57146x ch01.qxd 10/22/04 9:28 AM Page 10
eastern seashore. See “KatmaiNational Park” and “Kodiak: WildIsland” in chapter 10.
• Kodiak Island: The island’sincredible salmon runs nourishthe world’s largest bears, Kodiakbrown bears; pilots know where tofind them week to week, landingfloatplanes as near as possible. Seep. 412.
• Denali National Park: The parkoffers the best and least expensivewildlife-viewing safari in the state.Passengers on the buses that drive
the park road as far as the EielsonVisitor Center usually see at leastsome grizzlies. See chapter 8.
• Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary(Ketchikan): A creek south oftown where black bear come tofeed on salmon coming back to ahatchery has been developed withboardwalks and facilities for tourbuses. It remains to be seen if thebears will stay with all those peo-ple around, but if they do, thismay become Alaska’s most popu-lar bear viewing site. See p. 98.
T H E B E S T E N C O U N T E R S W I T H N AT I V E C U LT U R E 11
8 The Best Marine Mammal ViewingYou’ve got a good chance of seeingmarine mammals almost anywhereyou go boating in Alaska, but in someplaces it’s almost guaranteed.
• Frederick Sound (Petersburg): Ahumpback jumped right into theboat with whale-watchers here in1995. Petersburg boats also seeotters and baby seals sitting onicebergs floating in front ofLeConte Glacier. See p. 121.
• Icy Strait (Gustavus) and BartlettCove (Glacier Bay National Park):Humpback whales show up offPoint Adolphus, in Icy Strait, justa few miles from little Gustavus, atown of luxurious country inns,and in Bartlett Cove within Glacier Bay National Park. See“Glacier Bay National Park” and“Gustavus: Country Inns &Quiet” in chapter 5.
• Sitka Sound: Lots of otters andhumpback whales show up in the
waters near Sitka. In fall, when thetown holds its Whale Fest, youcan spot them from a city parkbuilt for the purpose. See “Sitka:Rich Prize of Russian Conquest”in chapter 5.
• Kenai Fjords National Park(near Seward): You don’t have togo all the way into the park—you’re pretty well assured of seaotters and sea lions in Resurrec-tion Bay, near Seward, and hump-backs and killer whales often show up, too. See “Kenai FjordsNational Park” in chapter 7.
• Prince William Sound: Otters,seals, and sea lions are easy—you’llsee them on most trips out ofValdez, Whittier, or Cordova—but you also have a chance ofspotting both humpback andkiller whales in the Sound. Seechapter 7.
9 The Best Encounters with Native Culture• Ketchikan Totem Poles: This
Tlingit homeland has threeunique places to see totem poles:historic poles indoors at theTotem Heritage Center, faithfulreproductions outdoors in a natu-ral setting at Totem Bight State
Park, and brand new poles as theyare created in a workshop at theSaxman Native Village Totem PolePark. See p. 96.
• Alaska Native Heritage Center(Anchorage): All of Alaska’sNative groups joined together to
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build this grand living museumand gathering place, where danceand music performances, story-telling, art and craft demonstra-tions, and simple meetings ofpeople happen every day. See p. 219.
• Alutiiq Museum (Kodiak): TheKoniag people are recovering theirculture from the ground and fromartifacts repatriated from the
world’s museums. Visitors caneven join in archaeological field-work. See p. 411.
• Iñupiat Heritage Center (Bar-row): A living museum, this is aplace to meet and enjoy perform-ances by the Native people whobuilt it, and to see extraordinaryartifacts they have made andrecovered from digs in frozenground. See p. 436.
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10 The Best Museums & Historic Sites• Sitka National Historic Park:
The site of the 1804 battlebetween the Tlingits and Rus-sians, in a totem pole park andseaside stand of old-growth forest,allows you to really appreciatewhat the Native people were fight-ing for. Inside the visitor center,some of the best historic totempoles are on display while Nativecraftspeople create new ones anddemonstrate other traditional artsand talk with visitors. See p. 129.
• Alaska State Museum (Juneau):This richly endowed museumdoesn’t just show off its wealth ofobjects—it also uses them to teachabout the state. A visit will putAlaska’s Native cultures and pio-neer history entirely in context.See p. 143.
• Anchorage Museum of Historyand Art: Alaska’s largest museum
has the room and expertise to tellthe story of Native and white history in Alaska, and to showcasecontemporary Alaskan art andculture. See p. 217.
• Pratt Museum (Homer): ThePratt explains natural history(especially the life of the ocean) inan intimate and clear way you’llfind nowhere else in Alaska. See p. 287.
• UAF Museum of the North(Fairbanks): This universitymuseum is undergoing a spectacu-lar renovation, with a swoopingnew gallery to present Alaska’s artdue for completion in 2005. Itsexisting galley contained anextraordinary natural history col-lection, presented with the help ofsome of the world’s top scientistson Alaskan subjects. See p. 366.
11 The Best Winter Destinations• Anchorage: Anyone can enjoy the
Fur Rendezvous and Iditarod sleddog races, which keep a winter-carnival atmosphere going throughmuch of February and March, butwinter sports enthusiasts get themost out of winter here. The cityhas some of the best Nordic andtelemark skiing anywhere, closeaccess to three downhill skiingareas, dog mushing, and lake skat-ing. See chapter 6.
• Alyeska Resort (Girdwood):Alaska’s premier downhill skiingarea has lots of snow over a longseason, fantastic views, few liftlines, and a luxurious hotel. See“The Best Hotels,” below, and p. 237.
• Chena Hot Springs Resort: A90-minute ride from Fairbanksand you’re out in the country,where the northern lights are clearon a starry winter afternoon and
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night. The resort has lots of activ-ities to get you out into the snowycountryside, or you can just relaxin the hot mineral springs. See p. 384.
• Sitka: Much of historic Sitka is asavailable in winter as at any othertime of year, but with fewercrowds and lower prices. Thehumpback whale-watching isexceptional in the late fall andearly winter, as the whales stop offhere on their migration. See
“Sitka: Rich Prize of Russian Con-quest” in chapter 5.
• Barrow: Go to the shore of thefrozen Arctic Ocean and you havea chance to experience the mostextreme winter conditions in theworld. It’s dark for 65 days, whenthe aurora blasts across the sky.There’s not much to do, but youcould run into a polar bear in thestreet. See “Barrow: Way North”in chapter 10.
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12 The Strangest Community Events• Cordova Ice Worm Festival
(Cordova): The truth is, ice wormsdo exist. Really. This winter carni-val celebrates them in February.The highlight is the traditionalannual march of the ice worm (acostume with dozens of feet stick-ing out) down the main street. Seep. 310.
• Midnight Sun Baseball Game(Fairbanks): The semipro baseballgame, played without lights, doesn’t begin until 10:30pm onthe longest day of the year. See p. 363.
• Bering Sea Ice Golf Classic(Nome): The greens are Astroturf,as the sea ice won’t support adecent lawn in mid-March. Hooka drive and you could end upspending hours wandering amongthe pressure ridges, but you mustplay the ball as it lies. See p. 427.
• Polar Bear Swim (Nome): Thisswim in the frigid Bering Sea takesplace in late June, but only if thesea ice has opened up sufficientlyto provide enough liquid water.See p. 427.
• Pillar Mountain Golf Classic(Kodiak): The course is one hole,par is 70, and elevation gain is1,400 feet. Having a spotter in thedeep snow of late March is help-ful, but use of two-way radios,dogs, and chain saws is prohib-ited. Also, there’s no cutting downof power poles, and cursing tour-nament officials carries a $25 fine.See p. 411.
• Tea-Making Contest (Barrow):Part of the April Piuraagiaqt festi-val, the contest sets couplesagainst each other in a race to setup a camp stove, gather a piece ofice, and brew a good cup of tea.Or the community may havecome up with some other sillycontest this year. See p. 435.
• Mountain Mother Contest (Tal-keetna): In this event in the JulyMoose Dropping Festival, moth-ers compete in a test of Bush skills,including splitting wood, balanc-ing on rocks to cross a stream, car-rying water, and diapering a baby.See p. 350.
13 The Best Hotels• Westcoast Cape Fox Lodge
(Ketchikan; & 800/325-4000):Standing in its own little forestatop a rocky promontory that
dominates downtown Ketchikan,this cleanly luxurious hotel has thefeel of a mountain lodge or resort.A funicular tram carries visitors to
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the Creek Street boardwalks, oryou can take the wooded cliff-sidepath. The rooms and commonareas, accented with masterpiecesof Tlingit art, have exceptionalviews of the city and Tongass Nar-rows through the trees. See p. 101.
• Hotel Captain Cook (Anchor-age; & 800/843-1950): This isthe grand old hotel of downtownAnchorage, with a heavy nauticaltheme, teak paneling, and everypossible amenity. It remains thestate’s standard of service and lux-ury. See p. 201.
• Alyeska Prince Hotel (Gird-wood; & 800/880-3880): Thefirst sight of this ski resort hotel—designed in a château style andstanding in an undevelopedmountain valley—will make youcatch your breath. Wait till youget inside and see the starscapeand polar bear diorama in thelobby atrium, or the swimmingpool, with its high-beamed ceilingand windows, looking out on the
mountain. A tram carries skiersand diners to the mountaintop.See p. 237.
• Land’s End Resort (Homer; & 800/478-0400): It’s the loca-tion: right on the end of HomerSpit, five miles out in the middleof Kachemak Bay, where you canfish for salmon from the beachright in front of your room, orwatch otters drifting by. The hotelitself is excellent, too, with atremendous variety of rooms,some extraordinarily luxurious,and a complete spa. See p. 295.
• Westmark Fairbanks Hotel &Conference Center (Fairbanks;& 800/544-0970): A new towerrises over the flat river city of Fair-banks, a stylish and charming newwing of the city’s oldest modernhotel. The owners, the HollandAmerica cruise line, demolishedmuch of the original building,leaping decades from the past tojust a little into the future. See p. 374.
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14 The Best WebsitesMany useful websites are listedthroughout the book; some of the bestare under “Visitor Information” nearthe beginning of each town section.
• www.trollart.com. Ketchikan art-ist Ray Troll has created a websitethat carries you deep into hismind, which is full of odd and res-onant humor about the evolutionof fish, man, and our commonrelations. His vibrantly colored artmakes it an aesthetic journey.
• www.alaska.gov/adfg. The AlaskaDepartment of Fish and Gameposts valuable information foranyone interested in fishing, hunt-ing, wildlife-watching, or justlearning about creatures. Everyonefrom children to wildlife biologistswill find something at his or herlevel.
• www.alaska.com. Operated byAlaska’s largest newspaper, theAnchorage Daily News, this site isso full of information for visitorsthat it’s a bit overwhelming. Lookhere for a deep mine of informa-tion from an authoritative source.
• www.awrta.org. The Alaska Wil-derness Recreation and Tour-ism Association unites hundredsof small eco-tourism operators.Authentic local guides and lodgescan be hard to find, but they arelisted here on a comprehensiveand easy to use site.
• www.gi.alaska.edu. The Geo-physical Institute at the Universityof Alaska Fairbanks maintains afascinating and cool site filledwith real-time earth science infor-mation about Alaska, such as
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aurora predictions, volcanowatches, earthquake and tsunamiupdates, rocketry, and space science.
• www.wohlforth.net. A bit of self-promotion here, but readers canget something out of it. I answerreader questions on a discussionboard on my own website. Readanswers to scores of other readers’questions and, if you like, ask yourown. I supply answers on theentirely free service as soon as Ihave time. You will also find linksto many of the establishmentslisted in this book, and some ofmy other writings on Alaska andother subjects.
• Favorite Small-Town Sites:Small-town Alaska newspapers,and people in communities toosmall to have a newspaper, arecommunicating through theInternet; visitors to these sites canvicariously experience the pleas-ures and pitfalls of remote living,which can be touching and hilari-ous. The best I’ve found are: Seldovia’s www.seldovia.com;McCarthy and Kennecott’s www.mcca r thy -kenn i co t t . com/WSEN.htm; Nome’s www.nomenugget.com; Kotzebue’s www.cityofkotzebue.com; and Tal-keetna’s www.talkeetnanews.com.
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