The Benefit of Palm Tocotrienols in Personal Care Products

Sime Darby Research Sdn Bhd, Malaysia

Zahariah Ismail

Composition of CPO 1

What are Tocotrienols 2

Health Benefits of Tocotrienols 3

Clinical Trials (In-vitro) on Skin Regenation and Melanin Synthesis 4

Efficacy Studies (in-vivo) 5

Overall Conclusions 6

Contents

Foot Care Cream

Diglycerides (DAG) ≈ 2-7%

Monoglycerides (MAG) ≈ <1%

Free Fatty

Acid (FFA) ≈ 3-5%

Triglycerides (TAG) > 90%

05 Phytonutrients

≈1%

Composition of Crude Palm Oil

Carotenoids

Phytostrols

Tocopherols &

Tocotrienols

Squalene

Co-enzyme Q10 & Polyphenols

Lecithin

Tocols

(Tocotrienols, Tocopherols)

600 – 1000ppm

Polyphenols (Phenolic acids ,

Flavonoids) 40 – 70 ppm

Carotenoids

(α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene,

phytoene) 500 – 1000ppm

Phytosterols

(Sitosterol,Stigmasterol,Campestrol) 300 – 620ppm

Squalene

250 – 800ppm

Lecithin (Phospholipids)

20 – 100

Co-Enzyme Q10/Ubiquinones

10-80ppm

Composition of Phytonutrients

Naturally found in palm oil, barley, wheat germ, oats, grains and rice bran

Normally not found in the body.

Tocotrienols and Tocopherols are members of the vitamin E family

supplementation and therapeutic use

and it is safe to be used

Palm Bioactives: :

Tocotrienols – rich fraction (TRF)

•75%- tocotrienols

•25% - tocopherols

What Are Tocotrienols

A

B This unique structure confers

upon the tocotrienols, impressive health effects

which have really excited the scientific community

TocotrIenols

Molecular Structure of Tocopherol vs Tocotrienols (Vitamin E Family)

HO

R1

R2

Tocotrienol molecule

CH3

CH3

α-

CH3

H

β- γ-

H

CH3

δ-

H

H

Both have the same structure but Tocotrienols differ from Tocopherols as Tocotrienols have three double

bonds in the carbon side chain

Tocopherol

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV rays (strong oxidation agent). The ROS is unstable. They attempt to; • steal electrons from neighboring

molecules (DNA, phospholipids enzymes and protein for stabilisation)

A very strong antioxidant, • able to quench singlet O2 • suppress lipid peroxidation • controls ROS formation

Tocotrienols

ROS/free radical/singlet oxygen

Mechanism of Tocotrienols as Antioxidant

BENEFITS

Reduction of DNA Damage in Older Adults and Anti Ageing Neuroprotective

Effect

Skin Protection

Healthy Heart Function and

Circulatory Systems

Powerful Antioxidant

Health Benefits of Tocotrienols

Chemo- Protective

Raw Materials

Palm based derivatices: Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl

myrisate, stearyl stearate

Palm based derivatives: glycerin, sodium lactate.

Glocose – based ; glucamate SSE 20 and glucate SS, Palm – based derivatives ; glycerol monostearate

Palm based derivaties (Tocotrienol), botanicals (biodynes, tyrostat) ; or combination both.

Emulsifiers (emulsify the oil and water) Emmolients (Skin feel)

Humectants (Moisture) Active Ingredients

Raw Materials Use in Product Development

Objectives 1.To elucidate the molecular mechanism of Biodynes,

Tocotrienols, Tocopherol in preventing skin ageing 2.To determine the expression of collage and MMPs gene and

protein levels

Effect of Biodynes, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol on Collagen Synthesis in HFC

Clinical Trials (In-Vitro) Skin Regeneration in Human Fibroblasts Cell(HFC)

Tocotrienols promotes skin regeneration in human fibroblasts cell by:- 1. Upgregulating the expression of COLI and COLIII genes 2. Increasing procollagen Type 1 and Type III synthesis 3. Downregulating the expression of MMPI, MMPII, MMPIII and

MMPIX genes 4. Decreasing the activity of MMP1, MMP2, MMP3 and MMP9

Hypothesis

Experimental Design for Skin Regeneration

Fibroblasts Cell treated

Biodynes Tocotrienol (T3)

Exposed to H2O2 to induce ageing for 2weeks

Expression COL I, COL III, MMP I, MMP II, MMP III &

MMP IX gene (Real time RT-PCR)

Rate of procollagen I & III (Western Blot)

Activity MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 & MMP-9

(SensoLyte kit)

Tocopherol(T) Untreated Control Cell

BTT

Expression of COL 1 & Procollagen 1

Effect of Biodyne , T3 and T on Collagen Synthesis R

ela

tive

exp

ress

ion

un

it

Expression of COL III & Procollagen 3

Effect of Biodyne , T3 and T on Collagen Synthesis

Re

lati

ve e

xpre

ssio

n u

nit

Expression of MMP I, MMP II Genes Genes

Expression of MMP 1, MMP 2 Activity Assay

Group of Cells

MMP-2

Re

lati

ve e

xpre

ssio

n u

nit

Re

lati

ve f

luo

resc

en

ce u

nit

Effect of Biodyne, T3 and T on Collagen Degradation

MMP-II

MMP-I

Group of Cells

Expression of MMP III, MMP IX Genes Genes

Expression of MMP3, MMP 9 Activity Assay

REV

REV MMP-3

Effect of Biodyne , T3 and T on Collagen Degradation R

ela

tive

exp

ress

ion

un

it

Re

lati

ve f

luo

resc

en

ce u

nit

Group of Cells Group of Cells

Conclusion

These findings showed that each active compounds has the potential to activate skin regeneration

Objective To elucidate the molecular mechanism of tyrostat, tocotrienols, tocopherol inhibiting melanogenesis (skin pigmentation) in human skin melanocytes

Effect of Tocotrienols on Melanin Synthesis in the HFC

Clinical Trials (In-Vitro)

Melanin Synthesis in Human Fibroblasts Cell (HFC)

Tocotrienols inhibits pigmentation process in human melanocytes cells by: 1. Down regulating the expression of TYR, TYRP1 and TYRP2 genes 2. Decreasing tyrosinase enzyme activity

Hypothesis

Experimental Design on Whitening Effect

Melanocyte cells

Tyrostat Tocotrienols Tocopherol

UVA radiation 365 nm (0.6 J/cm2 for 6 days) to induce melanogenesis

To prove secretion of tyrosinase enzyme

Expression TYR, TYRP1 & TYRP2 (Real time RT-PCR)

Tyrosinase assay Melanin content determination

Un treated Control UVA

TTT

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

control control + UVA Tyrostat + UVA Tocotrienol +UVA

Tocopherol +UVA

TTT + UVA

Melanin content (pg/cells)

Group of cells

a

a,b,e a,c

a,b a,b

Effect of UVA Irradiation on Melanin Synthesis Genes

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8

0.9

control control + UVA Tyrostat + UVA Tocotrienol +UVA

Tocopherol +UVA

TTT + UVA

Tyro

sin

ase

act

ivit

y (

u/u

g p

rote

in)

Group of cells

a a,b

a,b a,b

a

Effect of Tyrostat, T3 and T on Tyrosinase Activity Genes

012345678

Rel

ati

ve

exp

ress

ion

valu

e

Group of cells treated

TYR

a

a,b a,b a,b a,b

00.0050.01

0.0150.02

0.0250.03

0.0350.04

0.0450.05

Re

lati

ve

exp

ress

sio

n v

alu

e

Group of cells treated

TYRP1

a,b a,b a,b

a,b

a

Effect of Tyrostat, T3 and T on the Expression of TYR, TYRP 1 Genes

0

0.005

0.01

0.015

0.02

0.025

0.03

contro Control +UVA

Tyrostat +UVA

Tocotrienol +UVA

Tocopherol +UVA

TTT + UVARel

ati

ve

exp

ress

ion

va

lue

Group of Cells Treated

TYRP2

a,b a,b

b

• Effect of Tyrostat, T3 and T on the Expression of TYRP2 Gene

Conclusion

Tyrostat, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol possessed anti-melanogenic properties and might be useful in improving skin pigmentation caused by UV exposure

Efficacy Study (In-Vivo) Nano Anti-Wrinkle Lotion

Skin Whitening Lotion Foot Care Cream Slimming Lotion

Nano Anti- Wrinkle Lotion

To evaluate the anti- aging effect of the tocotrienols based product on: • Skin hydration (increase in

corneometric values

• Skin elasticity (decrease of R0 and R6 parameters, increase of R2 parameter

• Skin roughness (decrease of Ra and Rz parameters

Objective

INGREDIENTS: Palm-based derivatives (PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isostearyl Isostearated), Solubiliser gamma, Preservatives, Deionised water, Tocotrienols, Biodyne, Carbopol Ultrez-20, Perfume.

Skin Hydration Genes

T0 T6wks

41.344.8

C.U.

To T6wks Variation T6wks-To

% Variation P-level

Mean 41.3

Mean 44.8

+3.5 +8.5 P<0.01

significant increase in skin hydration values, +8.5%;

Overall Elasticity

T0 T6wks

0.5900.646

R2

To T6wks Variation T6wks-To

% Variation

P-level

Mean 0.590

Mean 0.646

+0.0565 +9.5 P<0.05

significant increase in

overall elasticity values

(R2), +9.5%;

Average Maximum Roughness

81.1877.29

0

20

40

60

80

100

grey

scale

T0 T6wks

Significant decrease in average maximum roughness values , , -4.8%;

To T6wks Variation T6wks-To

% Variation P-level

Mean 81.18

Mean 77.29

-3.89 -4.8 P<0.01

Evaluation by Panel after 6 Weeks

NANO ANTI-WRINKLE ENRICHED WITH GOLD TRI-ETM

TOCOTRIENOLS

95%75%

75%85%

95%95%

80%95%

95%

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

Skin more soft and hydrated

Skin more elastic

Reduction wrinkles and fine lines

Skin smoother

Enhancing skin protection

Spreadability

Easiness of absorption

Fragrance pleasantness

Global satisfaction

percentage of satisfaction

Evaluated by Old Japanese Lady @ 75 yr Old for 6 Months

Using Regular Cream Using Nano Anti-wrinkle

Skin Whitening Lotion Enriched with T3

• To evaluate the whitening efficacy of designated area

• 20 subject of each products, with skin type III and IV • Apply for 6 weeks • Using skin colorimetric • taken at the beginning, after 4 and 6

weeks

• For the long term moisturizing effect was monitored for 6 weeks of product applications

Objective

Long term-acute moisturizing

Long term acute moisturizing test indicates at 21% for 5 weeks and 15% for 6 weeks

Melanin Content

*

**

-9.0

-8.0

-7.0

-6.0

-5.0

-4.0

-3.0

-2.0

-1.0

0.0

T0 T4 T6

Time (weeks)

Mela

nin

In

dex

Control

Whitening Lotion**

**

0.00

0.50

1.00

1.50

2.00

2.50

3.00

T0 T4 T6

Lig

htn

es

s (

L*)

Time (Weeks)

Control

Whitening Lotion

Reduction in melanin content Increase in lightening

Skin Whitening Lotion - Testimonial

Week 3

Day 1

Week 2

The Results

Foot Care Cream Enriched with T3

To study the effect of foot care cream enriched with tocotrienols for crack heels on 20 subjects

Objective

• Creamy product has pH5.5, • Stable for 3 years • 0.5 % Tocotrienols

Percentage of Skin Roughness vs Time : Reduction in skin roughness in 4 wks compared to control

Foot Care Cream Enriched with T3

The Results

Digital Photograph of Cracked Heel from Subject No. 3 ; Before and After 4 weeks on Treated Area

Slimming Lotion Enriched with T3

To evaluate and to compare the efficacy of three formulations in treating fat bulges: S015 (A) – SL with Tocotrienols + Botanical Active S016 (B) – SL with Tocotrienols S017 (C) – Control

Objectives

Slimming & Reduction in Dermo – Hypodermal Junction Length

13.33 13.38

13.1212.93 12.91

13.3

S0159A) S016(B) S(017(C)

Mean values of dermo-hypodermal junction

length recorded before and after the treatment

T0 T 6weeks

Statistically significant differences

Product p value

S015(A) vs S016(B) p>0.05

S016(B) vs S017(C) p<0.01

S017(C) vs S017(C) P<0.01

Excess fat –bulges into dermis ( darker grey)

S015(A) S016(B) S017(C)

Skin Blood Micro - Flow

16.47 16.4817.64

19.42 19.5218.35

S0159A) S016(B) S(017(C)

Mean values of skin blood micro-flow recorded

before and after the treatment

T0 T 6weeks

Product p value S015(A) vs S016(B) p>0.05 S016(B) vs S017(C) p<0.01 S017(C) vs S017(C) P<0.01

Statically significant differences

S015(A) S016(B) S017(C)

Conclusion

Increased in skin blood micro –flow resulting in fat reduction at hyperdermal junction

Overall Conclusions

• Prevent skin ageing, improve skin elasticity by stimulating collagen synthesis.

• Promote skin whitening by reducing tyrosinase activity & decreased melanin content

OUTCOME 1 Improved cracked heels OUTCOME 2

Tocotrienols has ability to penetrate at micro – blood circulation resulting in fat reduction

OUTCOME 3

OUTCOME 4 Synergistically has greater impact with other actives

41

Thank You

www.gold-trie.com

42

References

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Sime Darby Bioganic Sdn. Bhd. (189028-K)

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