Contents

clupr.r r0 QuLrrN. rot

Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e

urNc DARrs . .. .. ..267

M'xEp M^--'rur ̂ IDN5

-coMBrr.'AnoNs

APP!NDIX

IND.X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 04

FORCNORD

PREhcr . . ......... .. .. .. .rri

CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoMTHrs Boo( . . . . . l f i

chap rc r l G^ l [R rNc . . . 3

. opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g

Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9

slPPrE\rENr RY FuLNrss

MiKr_G R!.tsl|l

. cdh&ld shsh Edged ]lu t.

. ciLh(d Double Edscd Rulll.

M^(Nc FLorN.Es 67

-MrKNc GoDcrs . .. .. .. 31

ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt

chiprrg-{orDrNc .. ..la7

. Hard,s$! Cord.d Qundrg

. udrines.{n codtd auirdng

ControlledCrushing

A R T $ f * . i r

c i r r ' dngMerhods . . . . . . . . . . l

luomdiccnh.nng .. .. 5

sRb'lL'4 cdhEed sdrct ng..6

f Gathenng

GATHERTNGBAsrcsG.1TI'EIING MrlrioDs

F r t L n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Run.d Eds.

garhd'ng

8alhdins.. ... . .... l l

snhdns.. ..

Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dhMsrcs. indn.r.d by r 8ny bandLo$rd uDd@ad dr i.t.vant

rhrousL channels H,trd, milure,itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!.gilne'ng ar nanda.d. stfth.d

*ine irc sPelhxy qriarions d'ar

Thud bscd h,nd rnd nachineedhedDs invorvs rwo pioaduits:(1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrdcdg. dr rhc fihn. thinrlr.smallo$lDei(2) puljng d! lnE loo*'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh..M or Lhc nikhiDg winr ont hand$r,ilc unn8 ,he o,ns hrnd ro pushthe rabn. nb,bdf,long rh€ hdlyhdd rlread Th. spesny oi d.nsntof ,r. eDi.rords c&d by rgdnubg. h.ombharioD qi$

{hih G 'hc nnoum and d$in orli.Iold! libcckd tron rhr nirdrs.LmB nrd$ '13h'\ salnq€d

nad 8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds on nn,n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dudn vuhdrblc ro bicak undq hsion, u* doubl.d or exh-shrsrhrad i! th€ rcdt. ltrchdr ln(nd snrh rlh a sood-siz.d tTor Rr

Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh. updnb dc 'hrcad ofr si,,sh bw ol$m running nnch6 (Fis. l l)

l r ! ] r ] . d l g i l ] r t r i r i ] . ] t r { . , f

, ,! r! ,![ L]f hrru! ,ru! rr! qhnL

tr\i

I

i h . r a r L h ! f ) r r h o d

r f r L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) l l u r r t r !

LN.trIn !\rs) i 'rl nx &!

itT'.

arowances: ta) Nd.b ,D s#ratawanees n ad2rce tb) htq pl

u r i { & b i r n r r r r ( 3 4 ' n

ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd |n rrbn.

lLr o{dtr rt Tr,! rurLcs ! {trl1

ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch

Sr4Bruzr\6 (;4r Hrfifi)

L ! l g ! D l L l ' ! | , i , I ] l ! [ L l ( ! l u

nrs, tn rhr bhirtrs I Lrl j. ui!

, 1 , . , ; . F

i 0 r I 0 ! ! $ B

r r 0 , i i o i r i i q r 5 b t s h / @ d

() Mr T thedn.h lrchrnq rtdder

r.iddrr r\lrtrN( uLtr' 1r) {\

r n . I s u i j j ! { i l D . ( L ] d l : )

Ftsln2eah'l irgskbl,edb'3bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD

r/ouadihtr n6 luqDtr.t !r

mlhurr ba [r ,fr3 I rr)

wh l2) eds$rbhhe aDd tb) bhd.

!" iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bL n ft!o !I

o r i n { i r l s r r r t d f L g L l + j

la) sthd3tibh an ,cdse qalreted drnachh,F trching tb)FrtE ar edse

Flutin8 is a hand.a0pliqu. r!ch.

groovg heNen naDdiru fol,ls.

Lh. rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quilyk.d runnins nirdrs lthe lar8{

'nur.) D6ribuL. 'h. ga'hds

rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds oldr lrbn. Ln $. n&dlc lidbrc tubbhs n threush rh. ourlhe on rherduodn'dn Ding(hrn{dl.$in

ueGee(b) in Fis r-ra) Rlmove'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h.

An innsiblc iar nan nndclini,3 rhl .onroG 8rdEi,8 Lefor ir

'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML*r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc

sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika

dre qhil! fqinsbro z curourrndr I rourddion i4 1Fjs. r.rt)w[or ft ta]c oL libnc addcd br,Penaned n,y is uodEnrbh. u$ ,

ru'ros 'hich can be rom Nay

T[. rurLd.ng. is r deordr,hlt finish to. rhesarhftd ldgr$hc! r{ {n.hh8 Lo b. g h*d

labnr! edge rhe!.ip or tubr!

bre*s 'nLd a ntu rftd sdlo bgTonRlnLi:r ( L) \!rh rlre ldBc or ri.xrnsion dipn€d berqrh 'he CIh

g .ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them

appliqr or bpillh ndt h tht

ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcL lopnrdri,*(r) s€! a rar ofhpe b Lhc bkk.r'lE srhenrs 5drch6 lhdndng rh.

srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnlG) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon.hp€, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {-hsnnchB h ftri ' (F1g I 17).lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor

Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tat aeattured swa€ lb) ||hich h sbyed

A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe

srhere,l ed!e. s$n ro rhe sdhred

i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr

h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse

ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq.hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs

Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitivi@ a saMd edse (b) Gathercdedqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aalaaetszd bchs betate lc) tuhirstbht tide aut rftush a stash in tha

FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe:(a) wth tu .xtensiar stipped uhdern*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinqsrbh$. (b) wk a b@ han'tsewn b|hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6(c) wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the

rh an d rrhdnh; hfk

hrir ro rr! snbocd.rnd au. r\&r

] ! L ] ( u l d . i P c l n u d m ] 1 . |

F9 t 1e ta) Ftnwhe a p'ry oath.e|ed2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rads

'I

SNGLE-EDGEGATHFRlNG

"aa'nenrs Me'nods" o! page l).

t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB (rcrei !o.smbnrfe 6athd.d sfi .hn's

Norls & YARrArroNs

dredih6s - 0ai@! r i1+no'o

PRocrDrrxEsr. Drttdc how muth fuuns llr

&bdc brlo$ fte sarhsed edseshNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq.

n€nr Ior tnc Ea'neEd edge ro6rihdc fteleigrh or ung{h

rh. dsird rullDcs in the srh-eFd rabn., huhlply fi. hE rf*urchrnl bl rhc xnounrindr cd in d. Iolloving cha :

rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edgegalhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.ro! 'ne {cigh'gdn of worn f.cbn.i skbildc hodonaly endnnish(' Al'. \rirchins on die.ft$gfh G piddnd ovd fl.lins on Ac lcncd'gnf br€u$ ln.Iolls rcl€6.d rrcm crcss8Ei! sarh.Fiog}2agnqedh-n)' 'r1aifol& Ibn lcnerhsnb g,ti.rbg.'

Drup.A sinq, -.d* Eathrnnz.xrends b rs adFced .dg6 of ,lqdmd pr.. or rib.. Aslie!trIr,tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid drcmd. and 'l]. no.dns €d8e. sith-

nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrnds to. poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0).

anglc dghrr or frdd lhin rhc odsin,l rngle aheB rh. .urc of $c,lEprns and $c lm$h ol dc poinr.

Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtnenig, rhe grneFd edgr kea r6mlh. staighr and ho*onel whnrrchinin3 , noadq alse rh* t)pl6

dc. my bc *bilL.d b diht trpor dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfrbilitytocuNeo!anglew]lenasarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed

al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebi-Ittig d*p.n and $vell, anl the sil-houdte or tht notung .dge fthrs

G.c (b) h FB l-20). s'EEh'mins'h. nd'ins drge by 6Eiqs

rig,4'sine]€€dga7ah.rngBd.ahB (a) Fatu re@se tun adta-

lb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDedat an 4et . lc) statahl; @th*dedse sbhirat b tuNe (d) stdi6'h,

srbili:ins a nBishr. sain<cdedse b dip in a .uNe nrcth6{old5 @' orthe tro n3rdgc, norcso a lhc d.pd ol |hc curc inse6.$, unl€$ O) rhe hbri. is l.ng|hy

lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8,or (2) the sitl.ning silhoudte oIIh€nm'tn3€dge15@dd{Edb.deln& G< G) tn Ftg l 20).lBrsd or rh. salneftd44r hsermeanne , !s rh. slhouck oIrhe flo hg edge as rhe Ei€a

1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcdto rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s inaflottlgldg€ha$tngf@Eoi'

As ft. difierence bdween dre

lcnstf, dl r fibfu gd&rl ton*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr

l.Dsrh for rh. ursdrrcd Lbric,.nd cur $e hhnc. rr nec.$arypi.rt rh.fibi. ro r.hrde thr

Divi le rhe alse 6 h€ 8*hqed

and m,ik lh. divr0B bctwenwh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s

{nighr. on-gnin, nortins cd8cvirh rhc d*iEd fullis b,ngtnS

tdmourtd gdhenng tds. dc trb-n. needs to be cut fmn a pruernO) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n'

shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabric is ronrch (2) sbsh a @P) or inat pi.un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.trion thr fords sin hmg (l) Trp.

rhc {op5 b rndhs nic( oL pip.irDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rhe rrrn ' :dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs-:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc.,+) conn.ditrg dc s.oaErd nnlI

q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dchbn. Lo bc g{htrtd v idionl

'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih€ sithcred.dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aErlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh

FonPPlicanons so r.,€. ,rrat

rn ts inp tutir, i.d!c rhe hller

$lc sqle Io! prEn drathg pur

not o! llt $rcd doND sa&q-D s F n m m d a p p l y ' h d . m d '

sr4r.d r4r?.z/ge 8drrrlgdo6tr har a nortne cdgr rhedrmrnndnrr folds ftLr6.d rbn &csrhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drsrrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich5nrcrhed smoo and $cd ni

ro oainutu a naq rhishl, sb]€d

'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouchc{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr

naled jr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik.

.u'otrl'na rouiddion. thr oppsft

.ds. rjghdygrhrftd. do*s rtr

RJkr rrom r.€ndsl poim-prc.lid€d rhr vd,h of In€ d). cquL,bE Edius ot rhc drtul,. curour.Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirssunonndtd hy satneF: Mon l}rn'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui

Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|rdQ||ingh|MtadgawdMadnt@red adoa: la) ared d tu

(a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 Nhnh

patln (c) a'*tirc @titu tEtd b

Fs 1e2 la) cath€ine rtud by heappNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|laland stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a

ered. @ rube tuyed oE;, isit

Frs t23 FM tbhty sat\sedst@'hg at the bp, utness tft@4ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.

FDlln6 muldplirsfrlh s(hrddrron 10 a buirdup ot ri.ft/dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8 bmus rtrungdhered .d3. ol one ds n,bi-ria thc sathqcd .d8c of d. idr'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh.nrip *l is scm ro rhe uDsrhnedcdg. or nnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is*wn rd ftc ung{hercd eds. otfti!l ?nd so on Ekh rifl inc(6srhc lensd of ft salhdcd cdse forlLc n.x' irt (FE. l 2r).lr lhrlishhs or Lhc grhFins is alsoirqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luuDca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}

q G j o p r n ( n n n ) r o n r [ .

e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren Alb) .|ashed br hised at the @osEedqebrredadar|dded

e'par$d edse re dtawn (c)Paten

.edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh

d

Iii

*

Opposrrp-EnctGATHERING

made sna trwhen (6hed omo

'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*

PRocEDURESro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI ahns'h ot faLnic adip, $e Ploe-dtrftsd.slnb€dIol.shglt.Jg.

NorEs €r VARTATToN5

dpposi.edse n:biltin8 ro archorborr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal

lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc

pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnzrion dfrhe {u I rd tokLr rh{ arl$ddld bd!.en rhe sdhd.dLdls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl

whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs

dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q.lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi...ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds

tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishrN m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih.licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r.

Fq Pufed owstu 4e e!a9ng.lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln.trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcad rds*of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d ordnPing. rh. rords ,bsr wvrld

brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'dpsk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd orpurld .Jrd so\* Nort p@reun..da5 rhe nry btunes $rallc !nhk.&!FnTpos {u.suLherins.p''Ilrd opr$iL. eds. garh|rns on b.

Fg l ,6sn ipo |kh .g2beQdanc'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\

Ii6 dr Idkls hk ! dnsorat retxrbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir)ri:lng,hc L€ft.dg. b\ br{ids 'h.gadrufs n(ches ro : nar pdl lherrshr edg. down$2rd fo(rtu11fbeIoE bAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro

oi.h r|r dgr r, r suid.line'fulNld on lh nq (83 r.,7)

Fig127,opp@ib.ad@galhe,ia

ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s

Dr sdtrenngasgm{lron on€ sid.or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns.trrvd. Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo.sir€ rishrly (G{ ourid. cuN), aMsbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf

Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?rii3, c cn& of a fabric rnp *e

i.sid. cdg. nccds vay rghr garh,4hson rarye nitchs (th.l,qetht nn.ha, 'he sEall€r thc (nt,1op.nins) Th. oppolne .dgt-rh.outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y$ sed rhe sathccd nrip.rtr b.m,nipulft.d rnd a n4, qheel-lik.

6 ddemircd b), rllc,ndmrols:rhsine on th. oubide edse.srh hrv€ dep fords, .ollkEd1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimhLh a lrn ndDre 1owaid rheoutr edsc (rjs 1 29). ro sathq'hr ouEr cdsc, $c srip nur b.ronsd rhrn rhe circunfercnrt or

.dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued

rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq xI r4) as $c hrgd n.aslrem.nr*h€n srimarjDg rh. r.4'h leed€db g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a!aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsidEuL,r ourrint wir g,,hs rLr

'hzn 'h. idi$ oI 'he inEnded cirQbrourLinr. qho SdhdEd o!oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh€

Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand.

edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbega|heredMonaneedge|h4|heohe|andsla|d|aadanob'

whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i,noD, dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhstor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins.Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pe coveEdwtrh rold5 thar -os Ircn I ds{lygdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttledse (Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r€

lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcdviln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edge ro.d8e (ris I rr), nr.d P€nmssl'sh a copy ot Ge elcd shlpc$B'stu a.b$ Ircn edge ro cdge inrh. diftcrion or ,he fordsr 'PErd'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoIp{pci to .nrr3e rhe edgs tor $rh

ns outtinc rhar fib h d. 3prt6Add n,r alloMncs afti dnfting

Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd.dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns.

*rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b, padded bdrd iI n*ded srsnwnh ,n ion herd abov. th€ gnhc-ins allow b .odl and d4 brfoc

= i l r t

' l

f i * *, . : . " - - - " - .

\ \,-:

s.\1";;7/:.

: i l :

r:..-,d..-*1

]%._:

1,r'.;$$

i

ALL-SIDESGATHERINc

PRocEDr,rRrsr. sd.d ,irgq shaP6 $ih sinph.

N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmtio all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn

Fn by xn {Lual anou{ nl

bhad rtrl*ot rumb cdixr lh.rgh, for Lhc irnftd rulncsrnd.nlirgr by 'n rFourr G{Fis r r2). Dividt rh. .(rved

ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark

Diude lons *Dishr cds.s rh

Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd

2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg! or fab.nc lur lDm rh€ sarknng F\({!,mdlq fte gathend lctrgrlrber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lo theItn$h betr\en ftLRrd iokha q

suy lur or oudhed frern dre rF

smlr (ndd ro crdNins

3. shbiltt thc 8a'hocd edgs ,nd5haP.. choonng a Nrhdd rhdsrns ft i equn.nd6 or LhriPpliqdon Gcfe ro.subnlivGnh.nd nn.hhs on Page 6)

NorEs & VARrafioNsrhc nrndrid fdr all sid6 sdh

dLng is , {une 8arrr.rtd 10 Isnxll.rsquaE, an olrlsdhd.d rdr smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grhered to

rh*.or, Nirh,n€ cds6 ndtr:cJ

rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$trp benE€n rrr .&cs a prn df rhrappsldfan sids srheri|s An:ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds

Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhdro ilsid6 sdhcing, uiriins necdh and 'ln*d ro .orrrp* rhE pulqummd) folds d€Libcurl! Fu.Dwi,u .dnv&s rhe baloorins hbic besftn rh. {,b ned cdssinb i mac.riL. rc1il dlridEs and

(rds ro.Furto$rry on lx8c 9)

l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil.

sids slhfhs Lo,n drct.s

hui.h.d srhrE on lourdinon falr

oul rhebundled hbn. rbor. ,h.$'heE b Dak€ , purl rrd loolssoDrdn4 hk. r qud,r rodnoot(Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l)l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.l c'rtu

JW)

9eThc run.d rtrrrdds lhe Puf

corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hcpufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc ofrabr!. nn.h oi rbe ourtiiE otrhtp{fl dnk and 8i,her findins rh3

grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcard rt(Pur ro I louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)

b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb

ebp ftu nusltered jnctid.s

I

usi4 fte scnril, kft ih€ PdEhonb rhe ngh side oI rh. Iahnc.sdrh and salns rich druler ou!line tishlly Push th. pufis w mdsFEd odr rhe bmched pur labnr{th th poinr o{ the IEde Gsrh*rhe edsB of dr r,bric b Mth 6€nssu(nenB of &e puFgarh€ndink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshrlinins hcked ro rh€ g'thabgbchild the purs $mdi6 rhe rabn.o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ingthi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas

sh s hering d6dib6 .h€rvc6. sd€ oI pufl sdh{in8 shtnn beohA lie nglt side Dinplelik poin6 suroundcd by nli6sIolds replace rh. pufis Tne ft.cinultr ontlbs on the back ol rh.rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!pnfg{h€nns roi Pi.ned nirgrftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro

einc rencils harE ciilrs * 1161Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hrgd opoings rrd g*h.rlng curour on rhc cinlrr oulljra tr*edon $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh rsenry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.d andNrned undd vbil. si!9, gnthq

pnll.d dsht {odnd x rmovabL.seuse lire , Pcncil or dorel Usnrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdlertd sdicbins sell to dtd rutuE

FE Fur gdh.ring and i6 virario6. rh. $nncdbs roLcr nk6.dby th. s*hainsh<omt longd 6

inq66. ind depd s rhE .rcks

Ma$d rund pulE citnd dtcovcng. ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcdputrs ro n r@ denne'l by theNnber or rumcd pufls rbchcd 'drhe rolndation The kiclraud30 .lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'le'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh€ DI'ned Plfi on r hE snug8k tncpufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*dnom e cushion dlgrlh6. outliG.vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed ,botrt,a" (l.rd),Fn, od.d insidt Il,rgq circle of hbn.. M& worhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhe du!ItG. calhd bolh Iw5 bgh l shilepNhiu lhe pufi drL in &. cnrFup. ald dre gdhs.d labric ber$en|h. bs down ro rom i b,* und{$c puftrnd rum. s€w lnc basc ro alound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to'Edge rtnGhbg for Rum6" @

w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufisrnd lhe folds .onncdng lllc puffsc@Ehd r])c hbnc inro a parEn.d rtllcl Puff srhFing sbnssirh a sEncil of cr ou cid6amDgEd on i Bnd (Fig. I r5).

Q-"r .-o

J#as;-:tQ\i*_pt-o.

i \

- : r i r a n a ^ c a y o y a \ t ) s h . r t b ) 6 a h e t t e h | ,-?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb a rcw at ya ws Mbh.. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an

, {,,9!'i '3 . ho Li(hrL' nrd

- :: : : l

. !3

./-,

'=,?a

)hei.

.i 11rY.€i.'fLn

) Shirring

SHRRING

whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol* &hing sM *nisht eds rhed*Emsd ,a h PqErhr ow5

PRocEDLTRES

nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcdfsbri. to n ch. D.cide how

gnhenng *ir.h.s should dB'puy-slisLr, modmt, s.ndos. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh otnnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro'du.c th. desind lullncs b d.shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.g.' dc*ultEmr by 'ne aEouDr

dqh t i l rK . l bod l r r t r

@renmirh6.: s4dl r 3 (lnoE)

2. Adding a $cona basurcnem lorft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th.hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn.shriir<r s4hdy d.K 'n€ e h'ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. iD" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o6" (15tb) my shhnr< r (5nr)rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm)bs'n As :he nunber ot sarhcrd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e

,Iel nrrcling lin6 sp1ad ouLovd rh. shidng srcR Mark the

.hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ideot $e fabric wirh a hbricrar.hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds,or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc

halv6. qmir.r'nat * lbrmdched to coresponding ses

ro PrePaE rh€ tabrn lor gdhd-'nB, .oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh

srikhs. n.chin+seM *nishtsdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd

''6*hering Merhodc on pss. r).

thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc .nd

(nrhinc *wing) oI mch snnc*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a

ach ov ro a nn surfaa mrk€d

tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or.ords r lhc cnds of wo or nonadjaenr rcNs of nidrins in one

trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh.hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h

.

4#

,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded

ridaiDah rbt ra.iad ar rhe .enrar

r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!

Lh , h r r F , r r r t . r rL r , f i \

. i ' L , . . r i r i - , r i J . I L l r r j t r ! !riiijxrF-'if jrtll+riir

.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr

lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr.b ? 5 srn4 !a!r*r dh rale

Norr5 a- VARiArroNs

tar siry tandsid./red o' ona sde

sides ib) sby h;id ri.h.d ro ri'

::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a

, i { r g (F ,B l r and ( f r rb

- | ] r l r ( s ' t | f f l b n ! l ] t G

i:,, rr !.d, Fr i5 !r,lunl rio{r

L r L h t r o $ \ n l i r L r e d o l 0 l

\trh radnntrg rul!15 !Drorr{rrr)

!.nhuD8 on Pag! L7) 9N(d I!h-

.{0\ a r*nrrrribur! rornru.

{rudurr (rcir o crhsirn

{(h nr.h (rft. b _(;rh.ug

\LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind

dutuE! \1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s

nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh. hbnr L! lrh

ro u,/l(,r rur^s rh| h6. htdr

i i . drrEd in'o rjunbl! of$\rl og

'hc iish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

Fie. 23. dsq heaw 2pdb{6 al

ireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd

sr.v.d slii,irs rq 5asdt

'nc$uRd ad$ 'n 3arhrtd b\s.hut longs dm ihc rc{s o .[ovsp{€ ror rngling. (lI $. nry hbnc tr

Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n )Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhe lld row b thetir pul 'hc lolds El€ed tsom lnc

Iulr and hold i| rhd srinkd posnronu'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo|gadr.nd sltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp

shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previous I\M (Fis. z r0) sr.vh8 shon-ens ft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI

ct@d J,irn,s i5 sr End on

Ntrhodt on Fse 6) lht foldsRi.rl.s.d bcNe! qns sdrh€d in

sns a 4, and 5 ae *e@t ean 6

|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangbfuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@sfuingafuysnaww'mwng|hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed

No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l

Lalti (Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrs th.6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd .ods neds,noFd 'h. !nd5 oI rht sds o.mds ph.nl tb. SiLhd'ng fbn .orhg uDdonc bur auow dr gnhcnfs

A v,iiahn dl puff.d 3hnnngI,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds

Iabri.: (1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{-anG on rl'c long elgs undsncarh (2) r mesurd NcNrlssF.!d dd alone rh! l.nsrh or rhetnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.ndsrhcr dghrlr: (r) Rcducnu ft drbncldwro rhe sdh.Rd inFrs.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!shLft,blnr&dch r Iold.d dg.sF a foundarion, shapi,,EscsLLorcd

(FiB 2.3) shonen rhe djshnE

Fo! shidng ro putl, $. dishtr(b{u rD 'hc sarhercd o\5 inur h.

alorr Nh$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r'h. dinaDc! berqEn sdh*d m$

b drca 'Nmd dr pdl $ho adjartd rcws ,c rorc.d dos and.e{{&l\ rons{ fords dEPc of

b pufial shiniDs in coinrudion,

p,iedvdy laEc (Fig 2 s) DruP.d

elknls. wh{6 Pured shinrg

Th. rcladonshLp b{we! roldsand reNs o{ gadcred nndngthangG fmo PrPlndiculai h dirgona| {htn shtn4 G sk$lrd

:=

aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an

:<: ;' -

-Ee

r€irt i n1:r{3,1!'r i i aL nF irsii i € rFdrt ie /r ' oi,€rf f! t i i !d n ri l d - ? r i . ' n i . G ' r ' l q r . . 4 o t : ' g i l , t €

ir , E rlf 1a,r 0 r: i.1. i j . rf i lr lnr€o

rr ao!.rrr,{!.r!..rx.,"(r* '! !r-r <rrr€df @ ,r!44 j(r r4 F.! t an Ir ia:lni r ar I

ri trrcd(l i tr i i ,).!r!d bl f nq, !] t l ] ( i b r / ( a d d j u | n ( i l r ! d

{i! oillcr f, f,-ir i4, fry ilrr h E c i l ! o r j : I d ! o r e A ] ] ! ]

l i a @ ' [ t l ! L : d e ! l l ] x r ] f i '

H T ( , N C

PATTERNSHTRRTNG-6brn automr a t 3hh€d wnhthe sathedng rod IonN ry a dsisn

PRoclDURES

sidc ot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{

2. rEce tne daign onro rhc rmns3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc

]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc$. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn'sMdnods on pqqc t), sdrh ands,$.r e.h ih€ o{ d; d6isn sqvslo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plssIoound pivor ihc hbric on $enedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon€quiE ddj6'frd' h e6.d.lishL 'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib

,. srekhhc s.ndr pin rhc ccsor lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b rpdd.dsu reaDd non\tuhm non hdd abd{€ fi. shtiins.

sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.Bubnnsh r stithing Paln Pmdua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn'dd shtring sftdr lcnsth ud kn-$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftclqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhe githdns,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\gaLh.iing ktion .an b€ maDuallynnucd by inhihidns l!. hbftfron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m.de Io inft* fu1ln6s. Fm th.frbrc by holding it do\r Nr'h i6nss a ir emel36 behind &r

dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the

Bcrusc or tlre d€dry nd .onpl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,pikrn- and mrandsjhired rab-hc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,tnor r4d prcredion rDm sR$.nd

rtittr ssbilizin8 may te quiftilBsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc

funak ro tiE sarhered nirhrie

NoEs & YARTATToN5rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds!

on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd labdto ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nithlmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b'ndc ssrhering and ro 6sc d.i,lld.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .nn,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth.dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lcd6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk 'h.

.ihc appli€ton, msure : eFpleoI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{shirrins of rh. pircm and .quibqd 'hc hqd n*sumenb

M.4zln inirg is inrrededlns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hcd€d8n EDd{s rr!.\ ron.id mdh,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aMriound,,ivdoping conlisurarioneot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

i )r irit qqqli, rt.rr.

P A T T E R N S H i R R N 6

rirj .icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,4 d€'otr. E$!Ei i i i r r i f f ' fcrci i !n$roioonoi@ l / F 0 ! [ d h s o E @ n r t r f u r d g @ E r n ! l ! e

SupplementaryFullness

mIry *g; * , , .

J Mahingk"tfJles

nune desigrE . .. 56

b)€cddoublctdg.J n8s7rull.d doubh.e4ed rurl]c. t7

RUFFLE BAslcs

EDGE FrNrsHtN6 FoRRurFrEs

D o $ l e d . ? b n . . . . . . . + 4

shrll Hm

s LDtsh (h..dge lhetnqftaLr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhqlxr{ of fahnc, nor onlyp}orc6 d.rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lso rfi.cr dr

$duooleofrh.lu l.i noN r[k!G sdheRd or pl.dcd I sdfru,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh has rh.l.dcfcd or rrr." foRr: , nm. LrGd

onrrmktd [dg.Ronqr o{rro.ked Ed$ng .+e

sinslc.srdt nLm.Lnltitd sidslrcdscd run6 .51Pufird singledg.drume 52

Nors rhis chaprr b.gins frrhBASTCS, hdEred by a snr bhd

pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

rppsmc s{fl1s trs trrpkldnrh .non rh . r ins [onbcnnfmnrd G 5dytdgt f douhlLd fab.n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringdor doubt d rid ptrIl.d nLllt.), orftaud ir G $rin nnch.d o' corLdu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse

Lrnc ol sdrhtd rhread ri. obviorson borl, sid.s orrh. rum.r wrl, orlj

cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rsm,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rlR l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's orPJdir{, ,fti 'Jr Pr i.ft?l rit4irij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu dnor edsr finrhB or a nrap ol rlr

ins tu,xmc alH$ f,nsh rht

A frft nn ed3e. aPPrePrhr for

on rll ord rJd ndl,is b LhrdethnioD oI rhe rufie! .d8t cnt

llnishbg quickly nnc ro nnwd

't|E piri.d cdg. ol a wdrn Iabncrum!.orulli lur6 ou, btrlksnG nYtlrrns Pinrrhs do6n\

whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLc hbri.t ss .ds r ] ' . ! i l g !o l . f l f f l c . ' h .edse is dffinrhd. Tht $nbiF

and hbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn.

ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP ,hL rlod ot ,

rheson. ird.l'mt qu|nr or!rum! !trh a frh8.d {+r insq*s

!r,l,c 3{h{n3rht a n,m€ rfih a

hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh.&h. r. (no!rd. one br one. rrom

frhshs drPcns. ,!oid snrss .nd

row z!?a8 eDs tu bF or 'h.

non unnnll,ng runhd wnh.urror.,dnuh, 1o rhc.dsc. r snip

lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiqd{plr frinsd nm6 rm,l ro str

Fie 3 2. (a) stutdy ne eatadhs

(b) snhped hi@e tinish s6hed al

ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng t6en

hndd {rh insid. a shsh fotd

ldsdhtr vih rho';or (Fis. r ,.

rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar

Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edsetinish: la) P'wte the tufltd lip asshawn lb) Fad at he tus e@ al

A lold turish$ rlt flo nsd$

ddrbhdJar' ir Doublne dn5 bodyh rht rlFk rumt Rnd hnLk io rlrhuDch.d snrr o'pl.n lolds ! rhc

LhL lms nls$ h doubh rh. run({ip c( Lh( shp Io! a rume wrlo sid!\ (i ddubl!-L(ig.d nndrwift N nide * horh n fs rLus

d€d nndins Lin. ro douL . ft rur.lL {nP (ng r4) Edst n H5 aD bc

soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a

- l ,

: , . ,

tns edses: (a) sinde4d@n tufte.tip (b) Dalbled@d ruttb skp

b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5

id.is!, ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.

l-r-- J

rr t

T\t lv * ,

.ach 'tu at (a) a eEte &9& turb,it lb) a daMcdsed tutu, b the riehl

nnP m6LnL \ ih i i d . r f bu

firdns n dtr Lh! aon iur \r[n!

Lr'! dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr

Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k

tu,h a eantaured and edaes chej|fulngedgeslllxuchedinba&(d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6

ntrtuLJd rdsr .r rhr binLlD( b 'L-qmennf lrl !,( !tritr,sdr

dtbnrdir*ro1rr (Lll. ifis J i)

ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)ne lbh thedrdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bobrdededge|olhe]ah|ngseannba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabededse beydnd thc hhhs scan h

'in th,c ttibn td) sew th,a dndrng

\!tr,, [Nrs lo.r Mkr]d ro rrf

bolL' lqLd5 (fLs l3) \i!a'iri

Ih. r no.r oldNhl. t0ld

tr' (5Nnr h iu{n€ \1d'h Iu Lh

dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor

trdt u'ollrr r.!" o,nnrl and p(!

r d b n G i n o t h . r o r d t ( { f ?

i lgli€rcd inlh 'hn*ng!or.

pr$Lng r do!bL€ Iold htn' uo rh.

lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro ,rk lord

L1tt

atlaErce down \' l3nn). rakeaa (6nn) sfueh n tre hen atb\|

hteae at tna h6nc jtst bchw the

snothet ,' lhn) srbr n he hen

ta, I 12 scn) slrptrs atuet 2stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc) pltrhe

Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shenh3n lb) Daubb lda hn zxawan.eantt ptes lc) fhe slitehtto q'ry the

B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb|tl l6m); p6h t thtaDeh the )rnelh@ takJ and oi h bact td) c{ry

hpe avet the hen le) Pu te tread

Fs ?12 la) stniEhtstw)@ a tutbbrabhen u apndaten@rbh na

r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-

cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd wheDtud vrh a Mn reedtc aDd u)

la) staishtnibhe Men ctt wh a p)nredth3 ,etJc-e E sdsht cDt (c) gded Lah he

l rd r {r!h{rtd r0'. r i m r s \ t r h o f t $ i n r l i s i k

. l { t J J b ! b l n ( l . l h . . i g l .

P(*( Lqd !, LruL,h, o, r.j,sr .q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof

'ir ihDA ro.n€|ot i+r rr

't,-*

ItE

i!=

{d) G)F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a) se\|n dturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewnotet an enee hnned ah{ 2iszas srbhed ptIatztior tr) sewh are, ) ktdededqe wth the tuaste stbwarce thned aro sth sribhinq. td) se,n avet anenqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfustbhi@. te) s,.wn ow a try, stashtsrbh,ed sinsretdd hen tut dk:!p.4

th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound!d*h$. iLre JKi/h..dsrrs. r rhlr

rrr (ris r-r6) ro Prs.d Ir Qr

, ,u !$eLLh{$ r ( i $ fod w t rhLh . ( f t Ln r i rNo ,ss id iu .rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB r ri) $! N'h 1lt u{dre jun Dcqu*

N-€{s 1 si,sre roLd hinrnx

pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v lrin,

1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'

srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\:

rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of

|f,. n..iil. hd dthg rhe f'bnc

9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'he seuon

rr. zisas srirh.d edsr dnit u! wh.n r beom6 rec*

Fs.3.m (a) LdM.dsirc M at#t\dt tb) wq sdsitg n tias.

an ov.rr@r.d .d3. requiE anrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrpiBid. ' l'dd.rcd chain of loayftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicbbsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad.@ge. fie erin stibhed .dsbssddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ouslyc.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochnssrrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf€ .rin-

GerrrnroSINGLE-EDGEDRUFFLE+

"dp of ftb.k virh on. hn!

ldge sthered b a $ora aE4n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht6brr.,-Ihe oppgne edle floc h

PRocEDtrusL cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llk-

tiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile(EIer b "Edgc F tshing fqRums' on lqse 4r). ro $r,sidln foi rhe nfile saip, dd r$,m dloHnce b lhe cdshedddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahdtndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-

LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv*rss rftion of ho ine.dsins. !l.dgas 6ni5h d*dbed pF:oslyMrh i Prcc.duBr dirhrnc As[.daqlo.k d €ds€ is srich.d uti &.nsht sid. oI l]1. Lld. !p. on a ssa frIn a 3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ldrosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptrroopd rbEd @ 6ll ,mnd b rh.back oI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe .+.

r. Deidc how nu.h rullnG theSarheEd rome should dcplr-slighq Dods:te, s.n.ms,

u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh,sing hry.r n*uco€Dt fq rh.am. To Erimtr rh. ldgrh oIln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lned6ir.d rulrnds h &. rum.,Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunrt'y rhe amounr indi. edince

Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[teted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua

|!||bddhahdasenalbwMb6dekogdhlings@whh

edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;

dldNilrix= lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum.fabdc, idendcrl in frdrh ,nd fin

. Aricn dr dcc of sriF.r dnlhe sMighigEin ol th. hbn.d,h rnErds i! th. \qvc. To.xrnd ,h. lcq,h df a rum.snip, ss rhc shon edgs offu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl{rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh.

open (Iic. '2r) (ro condnbB rff! ndp cur on rh.shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi

Fis 323. c6stah tuke *aB rohawasfudgeedqefu''large||fustip'dndextahb|bfrnne:4elfidhqakru|||e

. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh€hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln.

.xdd rh. lcngrh dl a rfi.. nnp, ss the angl.d edgs oI

M5dP5egethd!i']righlsd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE

the *rn ilowanc€ open(Fig r,r4) (Fo! a co,rinuoNru 1. nnp dr d! n\e ln6,Ers 6 Fis. e 13 on plge 200.)

4. Appll 'h. seleded finnh b oneroig e+e dr rhe rome nnp.

arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh

rhe hrsd m*surme{ (Efc ro"6aihei3Me,nod on pasc 3),scung bside ih€ dslgDadsanline inside th. *m .Uo*arcE ro d€rr dth I lengdy rufnc nhp g{h.rd on Pulled-rftsd nitching, divide &e de.b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,irE. or.iqh$s; ru rhe dnisons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h

Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r

Dtsrnhr 'nE sa'nec dmlr6. Pd rn. g,rh,red edse of lhe ruI

lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r!b bc applicd; bsr dtedy ov.rlne g{h{ins nfths Machine

b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng$tcn6, hidins rll .onnndionnn.rils ard the 3afidcd $mallowana in 'n. prcc*s of

Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa,@n (a) Basb uE tufltd b tabic*1. lb) Ph ttbk 12 ow he tuttb,

bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r

. As, hcn ru(1c tlEr lis onbp of rhe hbnc 6 which ir

Irom $c f,bft to whrh Iis dkched For top nfis,

Fis I ll on pag. i) For

loi rarins *,n allowancsinchd., (l) ziszas sdrhirs

(Fis. 3 16); (2) c6€nne wirh, litus o! ildsibre hchs(nld b rE 4.9 on page 70);G) coanng sth a d{ohlRIacins (w thc rmc dshrnd. up b rh. wrons eide oIrh. hbnc {d run rhe ri.ug6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[

M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE.dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n.ab$nee ds* tb) Fuiaa han

rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). Then@rins als€ of ln. rumE$$t oEilPs :covo$ ft.appl'udon d.bils of rh€ nft.bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc orrhe Dm€ r ln. bp ml be

5io! or ralfic Tl[ nm. r rh!

,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.anb. gdh.rcd muchnon dch+ lna!

B@!a r rurnc or on dre bnstn& b zb6orb sarhds r 'h{nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,ybc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsna rume dr o rhc sn$hqEh ofrh. ene fabnc To pftduurtrac-dc runns a, rhe noadrs cdge. rwide rume necds ughE! sadenng

Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o!rhEd nn.rd by hard or shichtq zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on.

!rip! sathqed lid trsft b nod<-r€ ddTry br shk. s*henng rnor ssily omrcned sth fr!nvsorsdahing.wltny &or

i

ae. 323 (a) Funb *sbd b tuedsa ot a circte betaE tb) edse.

NorEs €r VARTATToN5

rumc {ips nrtd earh.nDs. auro-maic sdhdns urng ft. Srdennsfool or Bm{ rhdnnor ts s hnand .rrd.nt irrfn{i.. (Refer ro'Gafi"ins Mdhods' on plg. t)

as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,

(1) !rus , n'neB *n dlo{aDc(onlr rhe $:n aLlovnrt). ldmnglrqkl on &e noq (2) msh dr sunrr]owan.c,kunul,tidn uod(nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEdldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh alllry.B iftd aPPlyiru rhe nmq(a) or ,ry .onbimuon or n\e abweBulrg sm allowrnG tdnribunnundrtl) in8 limn6 ro Rpdtinonslrh b* of galnsed sinsrc.€d8.d

The s,thcd ed$ or a shsle.edsEd nft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE.un.d ind rye Dsted appticl

ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[mdluil d 'he nodins eds. unk$ r tgarhend ah ichdv r rlrc $urc.Add ldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip roalio{ Ior rhe dcn* sdh.ing.ur!.d ud anslcd apPrjGrons

insid. a cun.,.irck. or rngle rulrbulge ri$ squekd tolds { $.no:us Mgc unlc$ the srhenns nlishEDed For. nLmc appltd

g{hdin$ ror a irmcsppltd bd.

Fb 3.27. neted tufit s 4died ta 2

tu edthacd 4tuni. md lqzissLbhhE avet the edse at th tuhteE

. A, ,he edee oI sD rrelftr lnlill b. rPPliqu€d to a toundi

rhc ends ol rufi6 rla mdrk

loo* ends The flrdsolnm6lhrnop d { cdse or rh€ {oundadonI{bi. wilrb. duehr id Lhc $m

rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widinrl'.Idundarod rab.ic slould rpaor &n ,nro rlr. $pktuo! sEn

ns.3-34. (a) Ruties Mk sta,aht ul*ds anetued h a Mhs (b) ro

8n|a|heedga:tih'gaw'and.|Ech|hefofljel'enfubbpe|ed@d. (c) ra tan ad: PDn he staioht

wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\'

wh€n a rufr]c 6lfd d rar.d(dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.!on pase ti), .onou!ry lne floding.d8E. a! oPdon. shilc rltc .4. silhoudlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.dourrim dmr .ngrs ed curus rt 'Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't burr shDll codourcd noRnne.dge Lrrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft gdry €d3€. w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edseldnbmd. Lhe ooadng cdgt or 'herum€ sdp ntuE shighl tor ssyrPPftrion ot rhc dc'ftd .d3. {innh

bffi6€kegalhaingedgea|ke

A nsr.,nrrr ru.t . hn . g uing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloP Prrm carlrnng inighrns our lhe

{i.hhyaPPLnrion rine nn'ghr

loped ro rnd |l[ ilhdud| onsinill!.ur inr rhe grhftrng.de.(Fis r-12). rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd.n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro'Edse Finishing foi Ru r.r' o!prgc {4), rh€ 5tu[s.ar bc pultd

FA 83. rwo na, the uppet iunb

applhdasfub|he|abicbedge

rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii3r(.€d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in '

rull1c shru $nh a dorhlrd.frbrirumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$fo! Rufi6" o! rasc 11) Xrh.. ' l g . sd ld ' ! n ' n .n r iP {cU loD

nnlhing,h. cdss bsdher fo!s.dc.ng lr rhe rune 5dp L cut

Don l r r t s$e IoLdarh r f i oa . i e|dg. Af,{ sih€nng ald aPnLi'-rion. pull r. rwo hltE dfrhe ruf.ne ap* ro poulrh.body orlh.En€ (.ja 3-3t). Ruf[6lcs unf,(2 t.b) wid. frunclE effods r*pan.ng dr. h)rs Doubled nJ.116 ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r

hrdly pufid'll. b ftb i. Lh.pull. uck th€ spEadi,s rufil. hbncr intrryd5 ro sch 5idc or rh..ppl'driotr n,m ForPumnss rhrnor Nhrft ftt fodndiro! Iabic

oP!nid3. flj 'ro and b*r $ rhe

Fie. e. (a) DaMhbrc itr.s|np.0|he'highlganan|l

pLqins. lb) s@tatins the s2thercdtaFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.

(b)

ris. e t4 strate.sndn ,!flte pat

donqabd ve6b6 tb) at the 2ad-

{| aPdndb! or r4)..d rngt.rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rh€ dmnNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo {i,oft rums. srhscd *piiard), baYoid nsrl.d tdl& a' thl sdhered

rh. orhtr \idr sarrrrd &g!5,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi

norug cdg. ofrhe upFinft 16

I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r D i , j n

rir b d: td !I fie !ll5

r e i F i } : o a d l a J f o ! l t c i ! , i l i ' : n l l ! i ' j . *

4ie"-! ' lr rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b].., ldE ! 1 ,- ri- M+ q.r :," rri.i/ i,i€--

, ! T T P E ' \ , L E : D : ! L ]

. F

GATHEREDDoUBLE-EDGEDRUFFLErnripo|hbrtFthered6a

s d b m e d s 4 f E F a d t h

add{nd sarhered nkhrns i the

PRoctDLrxrsr. choo* m rPPrcPnnc a .IIc

rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds*of,hc rume Eld edg. nay hlYe,hr *ft or a dif6e finish(R.t( 0 .Eds. Fidnhine forRur06" oD pige 1l ) ro d{s.oine rh€ dd,rr oI d. rum.nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for thtrulle on s.h sid. oI rh€ cm-rred sdkhins linq hdud., fo!dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh.*kcGd.dge hnbh: robl nLn4surndas (Fie r rj)

r .ollo{ rhe prceduns ds.nbEdfor .gRih.ftd sbsk{dscd nn. ,n€Ps :r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0

r AnrLr rh. *rcdrd hdh b borhrons edss or rhc nn. snp

(ft.rcd nn.hi4 rinc pilh 'hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d

toll, fr gausr lh. nrlhbs dG.bre Ircn llt iighr cdg. or rh.sdp enh a delne on the bcd otthe $nns nkhirE Follodng

g{h{ b rhe hl8er nGurchenl(r.ki ,o .cadenns Merhodcon pasc r) To ddvd alensfty nmt nnp ealhd.d drpnned ,hEad nitching. diudcrh.lhc to b. $,hecd inrohalvs. qurtn, d .'8h,hs;hrk rh€ dnisiom bds(n ngn.nG {nh pinsor dElk EquRr.

n. by *3nHr ro rhe iargd

t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru*

st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi.aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie!gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr,n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh.4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edse of tht rul:ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor'ng p€!. a row or p'ns or r r.n.ponry lichq F€$cd lold)Makljns $. na. b the suiderd€. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8srirl'c b ibch th€ run. b llcround,don. un nEishr or apprc

s{ds by m{hinc c's r 36)u$ $. birr b,ckir.h for hind

Fb 3.36. ropsM appbran tutuubb edeed tudtee: (a) staiihl

ftnaftd a@tu. lb) za2as

srbhine. le) sah stuchind and td)e.o@|ift9lilchi@ew||haga|he|

NoTEs & VAru{TioNsEdsc fndr, erlhcnns dr6i):

hbnc dundcnsics, rnd nne

dinduonilry or Lh€ 0odiD3 €dssr fie sids ol doubl.{dged ruff6Ih€ sbndard doubtc.dscd nft E$dertd wnh hrnd nirchjns. nrhsnaight or z'3ilgg.d n&hire

nrthbe saftenDs using rh. $'hd-ing loor o!run{rb.hncnr (nltrb crhcing Mdndds dd Pasc r).and ir is snh€d on s nnEhr bwof nr.hins (lered bcrwcn dre

Drqsdng ltuE lne sbndard &ft€nru.r?rndel b No. rhe.. o! moEpdEnel rc{s olsiirching tulP7ed.$dn or t'iftd 'xj'rFinrodu.6 id(on!!c bdd df coDrlnal foldsbdwmthe]oo*loldsEl€5eddd!nd6 (Fi& 3-r7). o,rn dddoB ,!nmc 8,,heEd a lide of{fltrtr or ona srirhing rrtu dEr oFE Appli.d ba bundnion u& ln. garhsed nirh-be shishrned out. rlr a'ning fld.

sdrhin3 lnc bclotr 8a'n.dnB rErdr'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6

s-:,a,1

I

. sdo1, hs renzrcd sernr B

Fb. 3.s7 s$*d ean nrne whh

gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe

It rh. snrhins 6 be sdhertdveE Ircm cdgc b edse blr s Cdhsed unril rh€ ft.hins s sdghr,lne nofng eds* ssume shdl'lik.formrions. Pann5 Ior the BIhdins thd prcduca i donbl.jJ'sllrufl€ hir !pd.€ oclo*d by stith.tnc ld6 Ald mrkins 'he stuInrsIine on $e back of fte tuft n.p.8:lh.adoubl.rhe[nmebyhsndb reul c dr shiprs oI r]t slEusB..aus oI i6 unEual ehaoing, idoublc{hdl am€ ror b. .ri.r ro

ins fiey nesotiarc rr8hL.trRa wilhunobhdve sr,fing ind squ*:hc d oppsr. .dsc. Rumc d€deE*Tloit the conud ter{ei {rding bands of rofils urh rjpPliDSedg6 ind smooln b,&grcundxrc$ A scmlled rofiI. d6isn .ontoim ro . plaNed, Ep6dlg p.1(Fm of lin* rk.d on ih ngh'sid.or ln. rodnd.ron hbnc (Fig. 3 r9)

Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoLfiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs

An .llovd mfilc design pnEGthe surfae Nirh a d.,nddbg.urpl,n!.d ipplmrion of nms

Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut

Fg'341'D@ble.adeedfuMlcp.sli|tfuwih€d94bL.Jr|@lfuw@@M h6 spad a Mtuel

tur high ma$ed nm6. mws drdoubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhedbgeLhd $ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur.n d dg6 arc foNd up\2,n to nm',bour olc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Ioundarion lsd, bu41ng d. bpsrithed-ad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig. 3Jr)

tu. 342 Dtubta4ds.n ffia bp-sdch,|lhCon$*dfu@re&naEfueM|abic|it)9w|1hg3nga,ak'aledfusbfuqdephs

Fis. 3.se. @ stith ne e0 des@

t6i, sathu nd he tn<kd 3n +'hsnne4Elghlens'gu|eand@nhleb ho re dnqte (b) cah1e dN-breshet tufi|a. lc) ctry vedon al@. Fuhts @theren t@ Petuftld) ard le) tuve u@ht side tffi.

rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d

nmb. cnwing rhe rume altG rh.nort of both €dss rhe aordngIold5 o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh..une ina*rt l+il. ihr folds on$c ouside cdge deqese { 'ne

nep. '1. floding ede. lo€td onrh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out mdrurn uP unl.$ rh! gdharng ar rh.srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lichwill dus th. lullDss ded€d o!rh€ inside of rha.urv. 6 swdl in.obuhds rolds only nno* ium6r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc rotdse are ued ror afl. /.ri!E.

rI@d tu ]a For rd* ffitd nrfl6, $ni+t d odiDs rc$ or doubl}dsea rumc ar appli€d b aIound:rio! drh nodhs !dg6 rou.hbg The 8'&ri.d md ropsdth.ds,s f r vdblc componctu or drcc d$isDed surtu. (Fis. ral )

shiqht d slighdy s^ts 6* or

bl rkhn w picviouly a@hEdrum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6dIoo! hold $c .dg€ or i\e ddd nIne ar€) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r rulswbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. Aond rpphdton $ll nccd band

E d!'ddon. n fti rhc loundnionGbft $LtL e tnpoFry sbbiltel

bteEd ao'bte..ds.a 14116 e'b(kd on€ o!rt 'hc drh* qfid.! snhrnns nii.hs mdchcdj

F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso|

bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@

1 put d ,]odl..cds.d 'afe mu" bcft, and nndrd fmh doubr.d rabnc$nh trnpto*rd lolds (* "Eds.F,lnhins ror Rum$, rn pase r4).rkr gdhdn8 ind ,ppli.rio!. pun,h. nd. ru[l$ by pullde r|r 1iy.6apJn {nL} b 'Iufrd single edg.ddn. on p'gr52) v,narb!:Doubr$dged ntu qi$ ont sid.pured md lhe odE sd. ' sEnd*d,ndhe..ds.d flme (Fis 3.44).

Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d

fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq

raPq oL lin rhe ends or douSlc.dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhrIounddion rabrn rapenrg involvcldldins dr cid of rh. rumc sdtj onr[c {n.hing ]inc drh rjabr sidskcing ud*wi[g, * lhd grad

mrh.d e+.! rdn G. dc*s.

rnd bpsurrh ro rhr foundalon rohD rhc.nd ofa rurnc $w thr rhdsd rht side rufi$ bsnhd rdth

ogd.i oprn, pull do*n, and ri.k

entd rLlte t4 r@ the tu d tud@ tb) bern sdtsry. t )ah6@r

ld) and th daM b tafidatd bvel

. r tu.ri&t 4)r. h4 lhrt. n@dns

oYcE[ wid'h oI thr rume nrjpincluds rtn. rumc widrhs. $,o {rhe sidG ofonc dotrbled hbnc nrn in nr &nEr lFis r.46). Ttrnoadis edar oI thc m. in rhrftnt( G nMys on rhe lold rheSabcnns nam is nrchcd $ioughrwo lay.6 of rabric I nme! lidrhhon &.Iotd wirh th. finnhcd€dsc t.lo$ rh. sadcnd rLrchinglpread our inb sidr tufns. rh. rur.

:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl

ro dh.h ld a fou'i!oo. lo|'i i.hn.i 6 dr ga,heEd srn rith rlrcsid. dr a zrDpd rod up .gdin rhe

n* ro $. drhersidt ortne gnlrdtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie8:th.r.d qn {trh rirh6 ftlr

side a,d i nkh on rI. d'hssid.oI$€.cnrrnmi tu.k d ruta.oploB iodud..nla€ing or ddsD3 rh. $id'h o{ rhc (irr ruint jsn'P.hnsi4 or Pumns rhe c{dn,m.. hd garh&irs &c cmd rum€Nq i .od instrlt hsik ih. lold

I_ir.!rloai4 ^rq!!rs lt! 4.!d) _ _ -,/ in;a;;;

' l l d r L \ t r L l l l . f i ( l n D i n d l

Hn'd.d,4bs '1a I r.ded

: l

i€

ffi

- . -1*; ,€r .

i!

:.-t:16.-?i!

\'1.e.q4i

il!

, , f ,

:

PLEATED SINGLE-OR DOUBLE-EDGED RUFFLE- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrhry sl*mdc roldins aidorud wid'dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de.4kin'e €dse or ed8* of i dacen rufre fdr h Esuhi oderry toldr

PRocEDtRrsr. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr

Ior li. mc Gig 3.aq) DKidewherher fte lolds wttl be pN.d

z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntsh L\at {ill a{{,lh. to16 ar fte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'Idrc ple6 a to bE pK.d, in€dse llirsh tnit wilL aaept shsacr.ig (nra b "Edge Finishins

rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4.Iinish: For a nneb.dg.n rufilc,Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psge J9: lorr doublc edscd rumq afF b

,+. To clcula& the lmglh nqnncdtor a rum. sdp plcd.d ro rh.b4d nssunnmr Mzk. ,lolding gau8e lioE a 5hdi, nripof paper ha*€d M'n dob

(l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioipl.rtins dePrh and Inpl.ncnkdo! rh. doB indi.at plarfolds: lnc d$rr. bcNEn doBequ,ls ple* d.pr\ count ddE toagular plEtsprtg. Mrtchinsdo6. told ino ]Ic chcm rL€nm,ngcnenr Apply the follo{

shighrgnh or dle r,bh., Ftcinssdir6 ro€.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'oFl& I2r onlege 50) For, sngh.ds.d rulle, aplt &e *lddds. llnish o on. long t4c or &erume sbs ror r dNble-d3ed nr

M,ikinsfirh r disaPp€fbg p.nor dElk o! tnc nghr dde of th.

(6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, aspn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfinished edge roi i single .d8€d ro{.

ph* rhe rume nnp. *cuing

nrthin. strhins. II the dfllrrdp it side or rh. iibht ldp,hanl to@. pin dd hind bsterhe lolds bcrorc hachin. sri&h.

shps oI man4€able {idrh and

Eehin nitching (Fis. r-50)Fu . ptstd rume qrh sh,QlYds*d Iolds, Pr$ fir lolt

(top Fow unlca3ed; Bononhow P!...!d)

n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola

Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire

sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil

crip xE je tattud tatd "tk

thepdnbd|ip4|he|abic'li,eunde|

Fig949Pl.abdfufuarhgemnb'

I-llJ l.

7. ro atx.h r Pleftd dnglc.cdsrdn'mc rc nd rrbn!, tddrti rhc

n .n . r I hEa ,o rGrh5u i rb t csudrc apprr.addn (rtLr .o FiBs

Pas$5o-rt) roPnidr a pleLcd doubl. .d8cd ru[]. ro (oundrion rabrn {{'n3 olq lhErurfl€! *anLh. Mrch rhc nanli n,nrln. o. rhe n8h alge oI

on thc fabn. (rcfci b Fis ] 36

NoDs €- V,4fi-arroNsBfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan.

pLered rufis arc srodh filn d6..iPlined rords,nd unddtaycre.conp,id ,o sdhercd sirrsk dsrd

Prcncd singlc cdgur n ma (em.Lns'n. eme bllet e k$ bnlkyAt rhc nod. Pl.rkd oms rcll inb

ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.drtfcds dr ddn idvrkd pleu 6

lhirc box Plear er$!r Pt.nrgar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roaliedfullD$-e*5 isolat.d in bdw{!mPl&rd $sne!6 oI rh. nmtnnp<onu,$ bu6c of folded ful

Pklt d.prh b6ed on a Iotdingsruge ol do6 spard !o EorE lna!, ( L 3 o n ) a p s i r n l , r s p b p d rriomuy b ndn rufne lidrhs rnd:ppLi.inds. Fd pt!i' Iomadm,

Idld. rhe inn* lold an,l rhr ourrford n,r.h Poirr of one rr€ . rnd,

deu. ro Pbn ddc rumc {ipiPa(rubrly iI lhc plt& aa ro beprEsed mnk rbe.dgt d eds$dtn a duplicrc ot lh. do6 on rh.s€nlinq mfth all rh. nisned do6{hn rordins and pftins schpl€d; and bsr d lh. .dsc or cdgas scll 6 on rhe smliiE. Lo.ar

'ne Lbnc. Fns lighrry b hdrd rh.

.dge d! eds$, and n€mr pi.srholougbly rd prodtr& a rumewirhqnp rolds (donrrnovr uDril.ool

d dr}) ro @inhh llt inrgtuyotlh. toldr, ippl) arased. Plare,:l ruIfl. ro rhc lounddid! i a

Likt sdheBl rufil$. epDlt,doDs oluipft sed Pl€red ru{n6

bg will aftpr sEcefutl]l The foldsor s mrc! bdviiEn.d Pr'4 ,uj[.

or nrllld or allo!* nfil. lrcn(B

4mc, bw mesd dmcs. rndldd€d ruflI$, qndions d*.nbedlor g{tund fgr.- Dd dable.cds.d run€ pttuin o p1.a€d ruln$ 6wdl. For appli.ario.s dmrrtqune quandrrs of Plc&d rurn6.u$lltn fldi(rthrcnrrd.on-veft nme nnps ,nro aronaftrlltklirFplered ,nd nRishr srdrdiinsl. or ddubre.edsed .urn6sinph sdju$nmr .hrn$ rh.duchnetu Ircm cdluing b p1.ding mode arl rcsulat thr $pail

Fb. 3.@. fhs tufle. a ge\9i@

lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly

iEitu as r n@h@ n iaht curc.

-

- i = .

.:t=;

4€-

( MahingFlounces

CTRCULARFLouNcE

inne4 !ho@* edge.The ronsEte d g e n d t h 9 v * h d f o & '

PRocEDURES

cnd,njnda-'he dNde

Diond'-any n€i8hr Liie

Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@

cu@ bat hecffi4 the tuttdened edse at he raw

R4nrlra nEi+r lh. dudng

Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /

2, choo* beseo a nource firh

narc ss .onnolled by rhe €diusor th€ rcund cu6ut in th€ oid'

md rht hnglh ol rlr flouna. Thc smuu lhc ndius of rh.

cmesl curout. rhe snrr rhe

-

rhe ,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n

ofrhe loanng.dgt h.rsa,

funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14'

ro slun. a llouc, smpL In.cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry

'he sn. in d.pdr and shghkn€dhng'n fieappli€rim sn

I To d6ft a d(uLr noun( psc

nen6, onc Ior rh. n&!! oI lne..nkl cnde and : *cond tor

3urehenr (a) in Fis +r)addi4 ' Ee6llnsr forflounc neFr b lne r4lius.

s.ond lidE ouEide ftc liBl

dEw a sml€r cirte ffid.ft onh.ircl. To include shen allovsic ldr a frllhaPPriebrcJo I cunj4 cdgr(d* ro .rds. FinisLins IorRums" on pagt 4]). Enr{se

b, mdiG olrheou ined ciicks (G) in F8. 4'3). cut ourthe cinhr noun.. p{rcn

4. ro srin{e rhe febnc nquinne ror a Prdcurar cirdhrnoun . applidddn (Fis +4):

c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir.urar fnrine on the Pdrem:

R"b'applfufuMnred6ek.dbdfunganngffifitand|tglclrcwn

rltr guL,rcriNr ja,shr nir.h

Fis. I 5 Ftmh sear ta) Mh

tb) rin the sean atavrc n,ax bhesean t )Fotdhsntusm,funireid'ul||ih|ighl9d8lrylh'

Faudt sean: td) wih r shl s das

toh6d and sew the :lnchina tines

nhnd sdn abB cd 0 open

edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan

our|nrc Loq,! ,h! sift oP.ni!:

qnl]rh'Fi]d'htrL.n{t$

. nou( Fitr {id, ! ar6ihr.

] f u N n g o | ' h t n 6 r i g . d g l d

(F1g + 6) .oDRr rhr nouc!. lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'

Fis. I 7 ra apet a laune ta a tD6datbn ta) wh* rcrc af tatnes

tbunce ieht s@ q tb) sew arotnce @ se up 'nd nb t ove'b *an dowhcc b) sew nshl

.,lses, bosk rhc 0oume, dghrside trp, ro l!. nght snL or fibiic #t. wift dehL sid6 rq.ln.q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolh andsuv rriFueh an hYG !q' 'o

Mnd cdse oI rxbn. *z o!{

n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn

. In :h . f r t d tnen t {d B indrhe ldge when a floune ltson top ol dr rabnc b wnichitn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{

ddc down, ovF 'ne uounc.lrm rhelindrng ovd sll $,oJloNbes ro the b{k. rnd

*e fsbnc under d* nounc

s€se he 4F\ n.oa a 6 ̂ ary l.)tabti, etur*n \cn krc@ an id/ \,

Fig'4lh+@.epMfu|a|atuthE (a) attd tud1tudins thetbum b kbto 81, M ptn tdbtu *2ed both wtth dqht stu bgetha4

d (c) ph amt sde$ttdh the lutued@d|26fuPove|d]*dm

I*n. to which it G la.bedscs a facin8, ngh nd. doq,

lacins to lnE bi.k 0f the fab'ric dd lb. nou..e nshr 5ide

sidc dM, ovcr rh. lbm ol a

noun( ippljetro! lEds gninlineb8lin€il E 'o hang &c eoe rdYon.ithqsful.oficmd|PdiilPh(rhe ni,ghleub ol r nru(. in tlt

tu. biai of &. noune in tu anrs.Fn ltom.6 snpli.d h fttrldph

[Nrc L mNdnrLy chaiging, i

Ldg rcws dd muldpl. dc oIoounc.s GquR $c chrinins bgcdts ofm,iv rhl6 For shqt sws orfloufts frrh nodeof b tum.lnrq . *gnnt ol tu entiE cidlarfldna Pakn my ]le :ll Lha'!naded Ior oft roq To balane 'llc

sEiilin. on all roE Dd $v. m hb.ft s {dl, ,lisn thc *sm.ns i!io\s on 'h€ rabhc whm ouhg dr

NorEs & VARIATIoN5A circuh noune go.aE ndt

hg rdln6 by m@ulag,ng n,n, ,nddc n {fthdt bltrig trp rht *:mline Th. citulrhty ind dcpd oI 'neflouE. pdtn, rhe hbd. @mpdmnq ind $. olse ffdh Et ftlRt

oidnal wYds d 6e luins.dgc. bur a smooth b{ oI noun.chbnc 4 th. sanlin. B, toBknr.

Fb 41o cdire sutue hat rcpeaE

f N { q D ' d { € * o l i p p l d b q

rt p.'l|+l) | hrh d$orrh.

]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug

\rh, r num( \ lrtrsrN tiu{an h hor rin6h ,he cdse t0

lounc iFid. ar rHd a$!

lFig 4 r2) rf Lhl dsi or L(\!dr

((h) tr ' [3 {f2) dipptrBll( 5qn

slishL ((O h ris + 1.1). du!h,hr

i Nr,r bdf! md mn. rictorl

.rrdo /rourd b&ub r$5 n

d.prh or rLrc foufr rprr Glisl,rLi

f

t Afret lnishlne ths lsrre edee dus

(r€ I xn s.! rk Lnua t 'hr

lE{oc rsEs ri+, i . o(r irFl

1 | q ( [ i o i d t l n r l 0 u ( ( q l j J

arot0'0( 'rr|lfus !]) rorLl

qPrad !4c of dE nouc beLo\:

(2t rrr re\5 o{ noun$ ue loo

^ r,,,r. dsar .tu ,h lr. d(

Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.as,ewr bseths lb) aDd a?Pte wth

.{ a r4}o(d io,,bJ( .,lgnr .rtrla,,ldn!(.1!{! rl,! 5!ntnn.s or

nr[{ 6 onr i .]hr( .r (a Ll'!,rp

. r . : r r i n | a i ! i , r

t-

CoNTRoLLEDFLouNcE

PRCJcEDUtE5

- \ -

ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb

(, ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid

Fe. I 13 ta) ra,sel Pabn wth tiresind.atirs tad tdrore @) lashedzrd equdry spread lc) Frat p.tdn

ld) cqta@ tome hade ttan

L o n i h € { J j ' L [ ! ! d 4 . f

rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m( | ha Ddr

Is slrl involeG inlom.d gucarclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine

fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs,node€k w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i!dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd r

sln.hhriHln c, r vholc lot.sonsh4e in berw{n addiionrlly, rh. chanden{ns of thcinknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnhapplid ro rh. no:dns.+.lil lafccr rh€ rypEErc dI iny sn'ounrot flared rulln6! Id bdoi€ final.nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr

nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgclh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse ioEfl<r $. inrcn'idns oI rhc pnkr{hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. drdrau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt

Nolfs €. VAR,ATToN5

Lik chuhi 00urc6. confrndfoun.6 rnay te ldrd.d (*d or

oI th. dlhd) and /.rrk{ds.d (tuonounfts fisnns our b dre sid6Apply rhc $lecEd Iinish b $e

Finislrhg l.r fum.d,on pict 4:]J,hur if rhe noune is l.ng ry lron

alEr $. ndun c L ,ppltd Ld nhrng lor 1t houE b allo! rhepodoN lo.atd m the bus b

drcoPs. dh n dm\ md d'm

nouncc wonr Nork,a corhlled

olr ptrricuLr applioibn unnsihe slshrDd.prtd €.hniquc ofpatrr dncLdph?m. i connollednounrc cn bc !*irbly nrEd dthdrtp loL'ls lor one p:n of rh. noitin8 €4e and delilde nppl.s cke{hd. wnh a onhlbd nouncc,

hrd to spdfic l]ordoc oI 'h.noari*edse rh. sparins b.rwmn

rceul.trY| A conhll.d floun.e canb. devi*d 6 hll wih equ,l n,n

t. s.q the flounce b nd hbrn,

*h.ft lhc piurn hdlats b l.trhc nounft *anline nfth the

(d) h Fiss +r3.4rs. +20).

E nounc in r nann( 1Prrc.pnde for rh. lppltidon Gdd'd F1g!. r'7. 4 3, and r 9 on

- - ^ - . \ / " - - - \ - - " . -

\

-

J MahingGode*

Hmdhfthi.f cdgt .... .... .... .31

lb) sen qenirs, kb dtich (c)

Goorrobioun.ed 3cd4l- sedon ot

the foedis edse r ttli p re. A

L{1ll< rh. pdcn, fim nrwrcnesid. oI r rabic$$

gdin, dr m& dt dly on tlrc

rlon rh.poinr on rh€ *n.

lowq .dgc lbr sodd i6€don

r. udns a l)Ebtud or srdg.omprs nt ro tf,. lmglh ol Gcsond. drslt the so,ld p*tem.

.ircle. Esdhac how hu.h 0f dr

.imnfercncc rh. godd shouldadd ro dr algc whcE tr trll bEinined rc achrd. rh. dairtd

snaisht lb6. EbHGbEg 'Lwtd'h or lnc godd at ln. low.'lse (nor thd sld hnrnin8th.ddrL dlloauEeE.{ba 16). Add , ah ,lldwina ro th. {nl8hr sids ol ihr.ftulnscgmbl ((cJ s (d) inFis. 5 l). The p*Em is Eady ro

PRocEDURESl For ech sodd, shd . poinr

icide tne pdh or 'ne labnc$h.n fi. Cdda MII b.gtn i6srnd. The dndne fmn poinrto lo{s .dsc .quels thc lmghor $. god.r aid inclld6 , h€m

. lt ll.I ic b uBemca, con-nd sch point b the lower€dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh.pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,

3. Cur our llc sodd f@n &r'i.lolobs ft. pd.d of .heparm or ic turtd ddin . Irrc@ts ais of a sodet is slwelsmrhcd b ln. nFrghqrain offte Lbric. on ft. goddl vbngddE, ryk 6e poinr sLc lh.sid. rannn6 mer ar rhe dp.

the sid! sntinB 5 u.u.

. Inb a 5€a oF€ned 6 soddbng'nwi'nnghdd6toS.thq and .dse nrtchjng,ph E*ch dr |ast nncf, oIll. sb ,b.r fte op.nh8ro rhe poim ol rh. godd, ,!dph oe sidc ot dc god.r bon std. of lh. op.nin& ses

dr! lowr eds., bscksdrhbg{ rh. polnl Arkh rhe o$dsidc ot lne godd b lhe oth(side of dc op.ni4 wh.nfrnGh€d, fte brcrk b.N.mrhe godcr slu ald th. snabov. shotrld b. tnpftAdbl.((a) and O) in ru. t 1)

angl. f6n th. lqs edsero th. SDdetl p.dt d Bchside ot rh. slshlim ltund

(7.t.n) squue or olE|ea

fte squrE, nrchin. snGn

sw down fte o$s sid. ro

b. slill trp @ lh. honanblstircl 3t rh. poinr. Rend.rh. bctinsipull dr nin-forciq nu.r b the b€ck;

,llo*mQ. Mrh nght std663.thq])inmgthdr.

porh! of rle ErntodnSsm b th. goddl point.

and bGG one sid. oI fiegod.r b dr dd. dl &.op.tus!pbddbdn &.oths sid. of fie soAd b

dhh ,nd @* lh. bas!ing {(c) rM (d) in Fi& t 3)

rrc $. god.rb s.m auow.nc.bwlrd fte frhnc 4 ln. 6p of'h. sddd. ,$out y (2.rcn) 62" (5d) b.td Ac pdbt, dtp

op@ (d Dd c) i! Fis. 5-3).

sodd md rL f,bn. on rhc sid.s.

NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNsalrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r

Eul. godeG a wide 6 r nru cirle.nd 6 lar8e a a tull orre {e I*ibl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh, ltu

wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@tUy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh

nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3ded whodr sodd E ddsld (Ftg. t4).

lflhdgodd t wld. and long,brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdEb.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oIrle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc teeii and loosrry MYa &e eodd islhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6alov.d & sftGh out h€torc ln*!don rLry tn. sodd rloE Ib p.brfor 2,+ ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th.

aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld

wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudtfdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se ofcuse at fte ll@dns edsd oI fi.soda de che.tsttu o{ th. lib'n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finishon dr. swe.p oI fie no*. "EdAehrshjls rE Run6' @ page 4ldc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc.sle sodes. dd b thse choicc ade.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6€d.rclnd rhe oft, p.rh.p6 Mth 'slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe

rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B pan-lir to sod€6. !t s@ E a squd,!$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. oncomft or the qure b{on6 rhepoi ol th. sod.q.:ch side o{ theq@re .qu'b rhe ld$h oI ft.gddet. Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre,$l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF asofi, nuid no.r (F8.5-5). Afrer

A. squd l(F3 to r floatins pobt

*lI€re golld. on. h,lf rhr hbdtd

'hc sdn JFE Gis t0) Al'ludrJ nod{ sodd iumlida rurngrod{rhe pftdutrs. r hsxdd strusc Borh ndc ota mocLt

sodd tJll oo thc bhs or th( rabrn.Ihl!.Ir nq h{siq b !4 Ituh 'h.

F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t

nr *Rnlrns lxiihe .!xr ItuE lhe

u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn

poi brr plic bddrslish mJAodd rmli,$ on dircor slrn6

sd{ring rris.p.on (rrg i6)

arl,.d.ubu, add rcundhs drPoi ol rrr sodd rqmrLas r{aaD arLo\2n..-s r dr! rdp, bur rt5d

is i dnririvt h{nR of'ht h!!.

tun. dh! lodd oPfl,i"ss d rhr

aunNs bN:rd Ni pa !n6 ifr.sl,npsr sqld hh,j. l ion slidrngbtliirl rhe i6{do! rdrs (rig 5j)

the pdht at a skh, @) nave the

slashkredhelowgellge'il(b) tMte the setun* tude a

need d6e dirpns to acemndateeaet hsetlifi fhe bunded th al

Fb 5.s. a ctu 2'nack sa'tet Ftuth

dde l.) tn&dt6 the paht whete a

c . l : a T 9

SystematicFolding

, ,\

Prtsing Prlats ............ 39sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l

fleG ... . . .......... .............s0

$ Pleating

. Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion

. MiniA(ordron Pledns... lll

Nor6 & \'.riarioB.. . .. . ....112

N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns

elefuqg',..'.'.'' ' ' ' ',','',',tt3

Nob rhis ch,prr bqrB vithB,ASI(J, hdietd by r gray bmdloskd undqEdr d. nl.v.nr

. (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6

Prcclduro...... .......... . .. . S1

Pl6r bpnikhinc . ........ . 9,

pka.ng . .......... ........ 9,tundd lays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94PeiL.r P1a8.... .............94

' se.In Pl.a6 .'.' '. '.' '. ' ' ', ',' ', ',' ',s3

. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold

. Rorrb{k cdddce Pl46r carridc. Pkac.. . .... ..... ...r03

Prc@durs for b4 Pinch,

ertridSr PlE6... .... ..... ....101

cobtet plas.. .. . .......... 106

s.h.rddge Ple6........107

Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07

PLEAT BAsrcsPRrssNc hEAr5

6€ntid toor sonerrmB het,nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 much spsi dl plar prpennon * n*dlemd rhnd ai othd dna, 3rah-bs rinishd 'n. Jdb, Pr6dins IdErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds.

Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltlsoI n't

"nd plnial ])leb db dElP,

lsrins .Ma dran pDpd $hs dfdE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdnslh. plar amnsmenr, , gddeprusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE,lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrdpr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE.m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd$e ffiw surtc of r nguLr h-in8 bqd. PhpaE a abl. rop Md1p./r,-g-hy6 of btihk r d brelscovmd \1lh shding, undqDrdsirh dutuun roir. lI sing i ngu-re rDrins bofld. hick ir w ssii${i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns

ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN.,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcdrhe fi6i snup of plac b b.p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr

'dshrnins. and ,rEnlry into c.oftr posirion. To pnYEll th!oucr rolds rioE revins ,n rnpn.,i! on dc r,bic benuth, phrt rsdD orhrcm !sp.i .!t slishrrvidd rbn Prar dcprf, dd lohgdih:n plst r.ngr\ iBide rhe nnd*,lold of dch pl€L b he rEed

!tus ir our, aDd 5prsd 'h. drfrp.ldh Nd 'hr pk$. Pi.$ widr ahor ron und rn! dol|l ts dry holl-ins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$Jn$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds

tum 'h.Irbn. to r]t o1h{3i r

p($ ddh '!Lo x solurion doar

u ( rl[rLerG Dddnr on top

unpE$ed pllrb, Ng t]t folds h'o

hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL€phd,g rh€ €ds$ ro x P.dd.dLoad iab pLnn'ng raclor rolds, ir!ed!r( sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b!

Novd sloq4l aborc 'h. sunmc dnE Iabln Aro{ ro cool rnd drr

HfMMiNG F!,4T IP,4nrrAr PrE4rs

whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc,

Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh'sivdr uDle$ rb.xppln{on rndI l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmke iruDrvonLibr., Nc rosr joinie

ronnirr nn PhaG, plRrt joininsssn dn rsu Iolds, or cmrtEd

Rnd fdi,l pldr prt{m piobl.ix! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s!op r ion r$h .nnd l f su , rh . *aorlto{rie (l) Pre$ thc hnlrft,ld{an rlloNrnc opcD and nr Im'nrh. loN( eds. h,hc d.pd oL rlrhcn Iur up Lh. h.n and nith.

ofrh. h€m ro tree it rrom cdnhtr.

(2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{.' lD*Ns€I!(sbge'heimrchhs 'h. h.n ldlds .srdrFom 'h. plg,s Nrh ihc joi,rins

h disn.d ro in i,rs rold Innrht *nn allolanes d Lsd drur

cdL.dgc ottu *nrllownrs brlr dqnh oI rhe hem (Fis 6 z)

rh a{ d ifipdrh! hsh

on ro rht n.xt sroup oI pl€u.

{r0.t0n) long, to tFund fte Iolds

Lhcy cool \14rco,ll rht Pl.ac hav.

fLA T TLEAIS

lRersb"PhaPrcis on Pale e0 )

.ea .^d tb) dip abave he hen.

i.rrs, 'h.r pl{6 \l,fr hnrircr'r,rtroa q! i| run ir! l i l)L tr.n 'r'fr iacddr LlL. fhrs

L ! i n L n L d h n r h n L l f f h r j

I i in D) o rttr.il ir Lh! rlNu

t

E-ilri

Fit 6 3 la) Anatnnr at a tat Dteattb) rwes at ibt prats. Aran@nenE

q , f rd ia r . r r . 01 , rn

Fb 64 ta) rwa ba' da6 srh aDtet and hn{ rattu ede*tfthedtb) tnvetud deal with Btaase paht bMlc) tuite pteab k rcteas€ painb taweted tndsidy

lirlr rosdhrL b.'!.k (ri)

5 u r l g N d g r j ' n f , [ u o u t '

{!h pler (hE DW rold L a oodd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip

btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts

soir divo (t rr rrs 6t

Mo larc!.1hbf. ' lnD,lr

sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r rL

adjalor pLlaG Logu D , eu

dr d6ieirl rl.A! poN'

oIlh. ri nn. told {!h pltr

nn.h l.nldN ((b) r Fis 6 u

Fs. 61 F enonde pbd natkhgs la)td tulet tatds, btuker tihes td ptacnent ha lb) Fd nteed platshs

bd[ (Rdf h xrnDlrs

o) F,rs+rir.h (d, rkar roLd.

(.1) E(itssrrl, Lun 'ht tup

'a{ 0 sm) t@n ttu tdlts thrctsh

pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a.@se the pte'l tde penaDedt

qq\!r tl|f n, | $'Ds tsh,

f1)ld fli. h.n nro rh. fioarns

d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. solmcs as h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of

.s cl tD'oo (( L b shhi i f , trg

Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr 6

Noffs €t VARTATTcJN5

[nr. box ,i DwFd ohr!{.

pl.rc 6Pleic lt ir i!o) d{P

," (r i.n) n,drlftf (ar

ror lrh.orci loLd) \rh.irr

naLh ('h! mn{ rold) dtd{ma

d s n n r n D ' k n g r h r { ,

a a.nent tha tusted losethet lb) hEred pteal eenteted and ptnred ahelr) badins the taa hes toselhet znd b

I

hon:onhLro\s otpl?,n or tanqlo|(ncLrb( (Iin 6trr) ro prcvon

,\klL hpnnfnDs. .nn r]I ta!

sndurus rlfr si. \[h ,hc \mulld oD rop (.i* 6 tol Do,blrtl dil IPh'rl ls'!341,|sLl(LLLIIlol

UnI.,lar 'L ov .lEnse ir drhLflt !i'H. r Lhr brd! or h\ {trJ

b4(o is idF(r Dftr fold5

olrh. rMsloLds (nod ldN{o

fs-rr+i,srh| t h'i! Db h!lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df

plurds \nL 6'n codi,uou' pLlia

rt" (^.nn 22" (56on) drli163lu) lnlLl' ol i plctr( n,i 'srh. Mdrh olrrhL,n f lrD qr\c

pla, dt|Lhbr'r'(Lod q 111"o 5.n) \fnr,n 'hR rtrnrdi$.

F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|

Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro

F a 6 1 1 | , a h E d e | l F f u b l h

rrt Pd ter rhdq r a 5iiPh

lo{ pktrB No a kns,h ofhhr.N n h o u l P i o ] D a n d r g r | j f l f i A

Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa

fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'

Ittt

E:

h--a

rnr€ or bd p *E rorm.d b/kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* senriotr roedheii Inve*ed p sEIom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen5pa.1 y dsiqned ple! *ctio6

PARTIAL PLEATS

p.inB.There ,rc eo kbds of Pdia

PRocEDUREs

En,blish the folowhs s6urc

b<nve.n pl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi pls

qrrced. ild61ftd) (r) tngrh or

edg. ({) r.ngd oI i dd lloE

Ad,l r $onl pd(.d rohn md(lay tb:t dupliln6 tu und.dold.rEEid al dr sid6 or adjoinn'epler *.dons ((t) in Fie 6ll)

I(l) D€fi e panrn ro! th. shap.

d,gh y longd.nd much widd$rn rh€ cltour 5h,p., 'mo an'iEqS.nc dfknil], bo:, orirvtrtrd plrib (3) PGirion thertrroutovd $c told€d plerE,

oFn ind pmdl Iol'rins guid&

(Fig.6 r4). Avoid lo.idng plerun,l.t{olds bo dd* ro thc sid6

(t) cur s n$rpld{dtusrequircd, curhg abund the ou!lirE oI 'he p,,rn or lolLqin3 arm.ine df & patrcn. (2) Mln4ht sid6 h.ins. 5N 'hc pl6'dioE bgei\{ oP.n xndsprad our o) M6uic 'lrc dePthor s.h pt€r ro lsrc : mdchwh.n folding md uniry seDleb in $e d6iEd rlfrrtonlzsE sch pkd dibugh sll la]es(4) Ar,$ t[ppng sn' a[ov@.6blrtrLsepoi'6.Pr6lhcsim sl(Mnc6 lbsr ln. Plstqresioc opcn and [aL ItrshtlrPEs ln. pl.r' rards (Fig 6 r5).

(.) (b)

Fis. 6n3 la) PaM tor a Bdiatl'..atat bax+teat mdenfu. @) Patun td m invetud preat unddtay uDt dupt

:

rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr

NoIIs €t VATiJIT]o\5

0 ar! or rfr rLPlord (tr5

nta a cttort tsee Fs 611tat lhe

I

nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry

h]D.\ronsnJ. ur hx{.,lr

of Lh! oi&ls(rois &Ddnr(Lr

{d] P|d !\LtDsjdi l lrB d ]!)

ltr urd.{o d' ?Lrcidf fuudDn ri Ll

I

l!.1

i {

r , ji:t

PLr.A.TsPRocTDUREs FoR Bor.PrNcH, PiPr Olt6aN,AND ROIA/1CKC,{RTRD6E PrrArs

l L e r l d 1 3 { L . L ! d u d ] r L l L ! t r ] P

r d r c . r p r r 5 , r ! s l i L q

a -.'l'

Fi1.6.2d la) t@dins tu'ted tu@h$a|hesilao|echp14|atawm. (b) senln$ dtugdtue9thet s6N 'tq i6t atu he

b.r rlr plcxr uid{folds virhhllrd endrhs iridble o! 'dp

pt@t: (d) erd be seIndary seanlb) Re.brd h. pteat atta@rce, cs

\

(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!

(2) rops'n.r straishr :m$ rh.h,* dr lht p1d {h.c inE p.itury *R,n ods, o. hcr 'h. mil(tolds b fte lrb!. b.hind xnh

b. ol, ft ngh sidc or lhc 6hn!,dnide re hudhs nrd$ 'l'!bp Db pl.{ allo{R,res scnarukrl by spr.6 bdw..f pl€*

lin6 on tnher side oI u.h

c{rD& nnLgl,t ilNn toN dr,op ro R point nishny rb0! $rlo{s .dgc ot rhe |kn hadrog

c l v l h t h t I l 8 h l s i l t d l s j d . .

s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. dfoch pldallo\d& rogdhs

rhr lolds rhar \ill be eruc-rcd hb Prei&'he Pki,s

{l) Forach pkRr. suhdivide

ldng r! rtul prnlkl ro, rh. pn

(2) collapi. Lh! phd allqsrtqcrrlng 'h. *.oidr\ *an'

Fp dse. ucr thc Lwo sJFsrsdhr G) ceruEg 'h. loo*

nikhir8 nnislr (ro'r all rolds

(r) Ftr alh p1.a, diidc thc

p{rl.l,h.lold (2) Pushins 'h.

tqnal plers. rq! on .nhd itl.o f i n e C d c [ P l g t d . l m c d b y l h e

|jlB n' dr.lop.dsc, radi theloldtd smngan.nl ro tht Pdn.

or Lhc rhr.c phic b.Iorc rcnoeiq8 Lht pins. G) Ai tu b*qsr.ur rl[ lbldin8 rilh nuchhrnrchjns Lhar ro$! <h1ghr our

em o ln. frrrchcddd {olds,or hand h.k r lolds ksdh.r

inia th€e pbats ad Enaw he pins. lc)ptaatina at ld) hand ta.l 2t the x pasron.

la) Estabtith a pn s8n lb) k dd

F i g 6 . ^ t " a w e d q d r p | @ 6 '

'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|, ori"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc arclL ot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins

Ite. u.k dE qlildr. at rLc roprnd bs.. b 'ht rabnc b.hird ir

ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)

{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu*

'hnds, ndk rhc L\iid dlBr b lnE

fi{ pann.l &r s€4 (2) Holdins

nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii

dn.hinc r]]c 0ngd{n6.d 6E rorhe Pin.*am. Fingc Pns tu ,qyrolds d dre dd6. (3) tuDor dcPns, rr6ng No inrrio. ptebrrh rom I suPpod fd! 'h€ ddeq'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und

folds ol dr strftundiq Pr€d ro

Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd pir* pteat: ta) centu aN hnon thd phar tadcrease at he sides. tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstda b k3 qimry ean

t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t ̂ a^d

,,_i

,4b b@ heqer pbeE dnd 4.o,e ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4 at Fa -

( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc

'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmryrtam. ['ng{ q4* thc rNo nev

(2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66

.rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6

$de {olds b rh. pim,rji €m.F,ncs prt* ,he Dew ourr tokls(r) s€dr E d.{nbed Ior rhe

(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold

Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft!{old. c) PBh fic Pin-sm doM@ $e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhcpratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni Pi!-*rm dd d. Pnmlry sn dr ro'he sjds. Thr Pl.r6 rom.d ar &.nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e

corr pld h rh. rop .4q hcke rro inns rbrds re &. ptur)ssn. Fis{ ct!€ il lotds bdoftremvins rh. pins o) Ar the ba*,haDd s.k rhmugl ,n $ne pl€a6,ddbs rhc told ol $e 3mlbrplet d ,ir€ @Er (r) runinsrh. lolds of ln. dd€ Pla6 dosrb lne hednr& b& a.h ouErlold ro rhe pdmry san ar d.

sean, tnd tb) stand the pteat rhih E.tab@ be @ ateat atbwarclc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aadstEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha' sean.

t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc

lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch

LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.

b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt

Norls & VAxL{TroNscon,parins rhr prcj(rng rleas

snul. bo: pl.eb rn $.1.*r,l imensionrl Nilh doubled boi

hny it doelr spaced. prc$nr 1hc

Rdlbr.kdnii' lg.plu6.whnhlook like snall. rsr. pipe o,Ean

pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull.o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc

j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbined inrhe sme h.a,lins ro Er) d. nruc-

d.pdloL lh. lotds nl.adb) rc

Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdiidcd inro 6 ,nmy roLds as r|r rab-ft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be!a&d Ln dtp'h a \dl s'lmngduDs6 rhr. fold pinch pls6 inro3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!,Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhedd rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n forarhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh

orsan pLca6 oar Dccd a,ldiioulhlkins x' 'hc rop. b$id. rhe prima'q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iormion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mbblhs froo sid. ro sjde Fjns,PEs'4 rd iqtr!8 lne 5hcMdIolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr

pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro.j.dingpr.,r hLr unnEsed fton

rh. spnid ol rh. folds, rg rd$rckc r lol(G bdq(D h.adinsrnd hem inlo fl o{iru rcsdarnrgou 'ne anngene kEPddli\

loo$ly wapped an,l pinled rcundt h e h m g l g l J b d c s 6 E w h d

ro bc hompnuos, sams Fh-ins lenghs of Lbric shoul l hll oo

PRoCEDURES FoRCARTrrDGa Pr,EATs(rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, drro"Prcftdurcs or plgt l0r)

hbn. b mnch aller ir js plakd

Intte nl.Ris phnnd for rht hr

.u*ing ptujr.lon for ach

oI hbric oi parq ro a plar

nid'h spi.c The lm31h of th.,fthd hbrn b€tur! 'h.

l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE

vidrl, rcquncd lor rlenlng

oeJ l!bn. { long 6 rht ta'$r

cho*n dqnh ol rlre pl.d hcd

r h6dLn3 s {i,lc s $. sby br_'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backr reisslfcr drc rmL'.k drh inkt{r'

lidrh srre or the narr *!{drd

mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq! pln

p.rpcndicuhr innlin$ on dEnay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxr nnlhLne

lo{s cdgc or iht tunlrck (u*

sBh) (t od (h) h r,e 6 2q)AlisnDB Lht rop ?dgr or rlr hbIir 0 th! rop .dgc oL $. nrtiI)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS

plene,l hbric wnh a ,loublt- orstqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b

.i.x,in3 , Packcd m6 or fords drt): rln.k .dgc (t) in Fie cro)

lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun(pld a br suip dr tubri. 6 dneredjn dE lolloMng, xnd du.h ro r a.

n.sur ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6

aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.0 ) md rhe la oI dr fsbri. on th.hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironrs$ ol lrrridR'anrly ,Fted do6.The tlishre bd{en rnc doE ets&E d€pln oI r]t plsb {2) tun{udy 'nud ii and our of $. do6 inech w Gig. ell) md saftci Fd!ins $c tabnc do J.ely r,y.rtdrolds G) sunding rh€ pke6 on tntlsri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'he Enot och loll rd ,rE 3ry 116r aroos rheroP. rhen I tht borcn Gig er2)

lNorEs I VairATloNs

rs,sd or a n4i atigntd b $.rop or rh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,yh. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbncdu' c{.nds abs€ dr plrd{d hb.

d6isn.d 1o ptu}d i lirle o. : lor

dder PleaE sby hbnc stbtrld hcdromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni .

soJr ernils. Prcds rarL hb ,dEpe iGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l.

rords ol rhr dhP. ro doP.. $chbnc NaDe pu pl€' nui bentrlh widd $an rhc $kMllokdp.r pl.{ o! lh€ sbr Tl[ $rrshou d b. rpprupii,crr drP eid

rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne\!id$ ot oft *in L\nr lurs a dEp{ne} beMcn rhc bulging .!16 on

agehdndg .e l * | p rces

adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like' dsfiL ii rhe anndgc drSor):The plcr6 xn fo@Ed on g:uscd

"Ga'hcdns Merhods on Plse 4).

rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud.adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m

To uru.rh ,h. sP4ins oI $e lotds,n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dorted suid€-[D6. a dor iDr $$y idrh jnb ardld Gnridse pknrd hbnc bm.do I sq Prcj4s ous?'d bdorctallhc in rivLh for& ro rh. floniDsqte. rh. drhade G bcn.r,e Nhm,ht 5br erdEhs : solid lom. I drhbnt ts kB ninand rh. pteb hntydep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaa m *lI.5qPorirga shd upnghr or.xhd rikc a shdf hor rh. ray

J'_v--!/__\f--]-^

1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\

I

t',1-

t! 't!'i:

T*

1f

I!It

a-t : I t - - - : -7-

!

AccoRDroNPI EATS

d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$

ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)

BmF) rrr mc.h s y formed

HAND-FoI|I{IDAccoRDroN PrEArs

.uLstrlul!,hf rmuDr of hhn.

,h. str?,ghr r!!:. dl r iifi inP oI

q a { l h . | o L d l t h l j l u o

form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.

rords L sb.rPlf qrrel (b)

spreid ofor. n.o'nir plc{

Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d rai-

nkhr. m.h o{r sch h&k

j | 3 1 | E L o w { r d a l d I t h t n a v

NorEs €r VARTATToNS

r/ (1r..t or sulL.r D dtp(h s

f.n m,Lr helt @rc nid noni

o lJgrr. or lbld md ss 'hE hldRlrr tj.ssnrs lid cslh plq'sroLds nat be pdmorLr rix.d

!(d on pld.d hbrf n l]ql

rh.in ?nd on, roldhB Lmptrb {I

n. ts accordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n

foLd r. rht nar wrh rqudDudlspd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi

rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql,rhc folds. rrk thE plcrtr 'n'o .

Ld'!, sdr jdnns rnn |tcs

cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanbackcBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay

o p l m D r \ . l h € L o \ ' f l e J F d |

Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly

PRoaEDURE5 FoR MI 'r-

AccoRDIoN Pr E,{TTNG

'h! tuLfr (R.r. h 'r!n'a xnloddns PL€iter od pagt 126)

ai,lt hp eJse ill.qt h)

rhtad vakf i,h\ ' loublllold rD rhd LB insid. rh.

pldinsrhr.d (Fis 6i6i

riqnmqr gf (F.rrins[Dg

b 4 (I) cu,a iDpe,)

lEr rrl (ur plrr hbn! Iq

.rrnd ribn. o! Pra. 6 )

Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l

of rh . r l , r ! l r r rn rn r r

rrl F0[,-i ic d]! L?{ rtr\

' lKiJ q trol ']h..\|nd

s F . | ] . ! l ] ' l ' 1 \ l u L r L ] s 'rfd cr rlr df N.r

Nrorls €t VARJArro\'s

'h€|old'r]IDfi l]][\ l l l ld||p(

Lh. r!rJs orr(hinm h tonn.d

rl.i h\ hind foli$i,sagrrdor

t ! I ( b . [ o A l s h s m d k h g . o o

--

l :

{

I

Ii

WRINKLEDPLEATING

PRocEDLTRES

\!r rib( hps f ir n0)n l'iir) \ijd! \rnd 'rrr

fi.( unl rLre,. .d hbrr (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)

|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml&

Ddlod) nur he onnft.n

sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

t ro irbilie brcoinnick phring.

dbr requics (F0 aPnrnrne

dion rk{i 34. on pr8q Lrl )

innft' ofirs PrePJcarnN Modiricnors.l.ng.lhrtosul' Fdr

ric fo! hroomnick pl. ng: EnhE.

ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g

hbn. imnnd a a..h trLm!.{rdoN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd.hnsd ofbindrDs. ft t|t rorltd

Add qins tshrLy dh .ord ro rlrraldlE rnd nnring I rcc.du{s ol

llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son

Lod{lr ind kccP h a dntrs o.

\i ru o $c rtasa or wn r.!iphrhs. bu1 rhc pllas cn l,e EsrN rtphLri lhe p(paErh and

NoTEs & VARra oNs

such n5 .hnu sirr( and iishrNoglir!non. rrtc bci Lo qrhlr.dpl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI

rld rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[

ait{ PL€di,s. rhc sids othmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor

tunnflbn pr.arcd fabic \!i n| tls

Pre'i3 rh. LIooNftk ndhcdpioduc .i4E5 rod cnss rhn

coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foudlar.nD8-bu subsequ€nr N!*$

DoUBLE-CoNTRoLLEDPLEATS

PRocrDL'RESl. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiB d'.

iir sids of rhd labdc, tbloqngdE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd9?. orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir

2. sFLiliI r pktu d hoth odsEirh{ udslhrnar 'he pk,,td

$!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPiceof hbnc, or nrbilic rirhduru sLus befoth"nd, a rpprcpni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[crquiEmms of ft parricular

sire e,r,ls Nhame Plerd 6bnc is

shtldd ow. sdlunddlbiru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr

in oic din.don or one .dgc si

01 ds6. or thc alc or plst.

rhEloldsithec{E!€t${dr+eo l ' n d M { . i g h ' d K l p h b

kNs thc €ds of rhc Plols c

To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I.aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl

$rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lheplscoism@sbbiledr* I,fte hlds or rdl<dc ,pplrotu'spL'I $nh rh..ooFntion or llmthbtu m LskJ 'o a tul 5hr

ndmmg* mirc|no\'tdslowly ibo\t rhc surl&e of rhehbnc AlloN b @ol ud dry

Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5

Prd4 $tu'b6 trDt rcquiE F,td6 (ll PkaG ronned on adiacltalsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh. roldcb lmEl8e { d hgk D rh. ftnre(1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,hehbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'dndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh.

hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d alpl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th€ ilEnd'd diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg.,d rd+, and spread ro dlow lor iptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h GqdiRdior adrptable ro pl.ahs.dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,

and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag. 17 )Pnlscd foldr, .cr!ftiion plcft, and

Th. folds oI @5vd pLd6 pufi w

tlrlplsb nduc uch sidc of asqua€ oi tian8le of hbnc virh rhtrords. thm brst $e PrerEd e+6 b x

s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bncmyb . l c f t n i s ,o r ranb . tdcddoM hh r @rirE s{d dr (acand grco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b'Furu\line or pogc q). or nutrcdinb bi{uib (rcLr b "Bscuirt ooPase 2r3) vdtuli us Pdlh Pre'sfor labnc duddn i blsdldrrlrc

rhc rolrs olfd.d pr.a6 ft 5hbiItred hb prmaDcd. immoshlc

or l(N tolds, lxing pushs pLaG inrcn-pler lik djrcdioc.Forqam.

,u.k wh.n rh br.k lolds o{.a.ddst 0 h?nd lonfd erodidiplos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim

pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB.

dim brcorudct, o .dirddn plu!

srrlu spRd our aid buncd i! L\c.om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de$niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhe d!&non ol|ht|oldldr\nnk|6aid[u!rlt

N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs t !!iqur,

e! $iho pidous narkinss ordns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligtol rhr dFLhs rah.n b dr bp .dccolx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*wdrkins tum rtu top do\r. pull upa lold Nirh $e poin' of 'h! n .dlr.

8lotrid rlr IohL to rlrc sq srh dnrl{pRiakd bkksiithes Pusb rnd pdlL

rlrc lolds. r-inn rl,c lmsln od

pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a

rcnnrN6 hhnc inlo a Jirr(tdL.fro Exdle 6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m

Mln ror plctud lcngin or {abdcundl it rcrch6 Lhc bl!c' mcisrir

t.xnlr lor s.un!: l'onddirionrl

rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,tsr sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)

D O I J B L E C O N T R O L L E DP L F A T S

III

'1S<-:-

- - i

i-- '

1r\\\\!r\ti.

?:

/ Smoching

SMOCKTNG BAsrcs

FAaruc REeurED FoRSMocxrNc

hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs proj.. rh'! a hi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr

sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc

dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr sori hli,jcli|(cfnisr phn snL

hLn..{nar nnrMd nn rrr

DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.

nrs vor[id on a sni]r gnd

iLons rr r.rsrh ofrhr rr.rsr|t rulri dn(lioul pull oL

rtv i 0, i silur! of rlt .hD

ird MmN. rht rtrbi. DbdhJrEdi6 he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr

r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr

UsrNG A SMocKrNcPIIATER

(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll, or

] h I f h ! l g $ ' ' o ] | l ] r ' a L n . J l n n d

,hl h rdle b,no!e rrr fab,i.

,1" GDn) d<p. rlDr,rr hrdkr,

dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrqorlk Prar. Al,o drlr.,dFgon

01!F) b rr" (r0r.n) r {.ond

trl P{rb! oI rhe fabr n of 6

rrNrd5 (l$d o,E od o{ rLrc rLrr6d5l

$hq or. fr( 0r hhn. Nr

|l 'kPllrq'hNl5aos:'ht

llr dlttr.r Ld\!q' No r(ttlun

SMoakrN6 EMsRotDERy5,, r ( HE5

(moFd. rh! nndE hold tu Iold:

is$orfllhn3 Elrrr nr.h totinF rs osi pltrh (rh! o,\ |

! Lrfibdor ord uDd. Lhr !p ol

hdcrL(hd nrdrs 'rr' [n rdtm' rL6$ bsdh{ (.ie 7 $l

6

Fb 7-3. la) Mavire tuM lrlde 2tuae tb) strch)ng taa ttb6 toeethet.and murs q t ) to rcde rcrc al

{

Foqr@,mqo,r,. rhl,h d

v 4r( in!hi!* wqr or ! 'h!

t r i G h o n € r o N | j ! ! M ! N . !s $ l l ( r e . j 3 h L b l t l ] ] h . ] i d m g

$or / .d , , , n i l rNsq {h { -

nn I pdind !!!drr (Fis 7 r t)

r'lol,drr(Iis rlr) al lPd

la' lzbxien65b4ightsil$

o|!d nd runrd o"d dr su'n

nooLh rrbu b,!d5 tu edse (Rd{

on Fs$ 17Iffdtrtdnns iP c

lrh ? nmt. rook rh. tunxl tur ol

Lhc qrsr Nr h.n rltrnm. (d{

prsc{r) ]\L rh! b$ ol 'l( rufi]!

uorr, dr .dgc opntrdr\nh

hennededgeald'e.|ly-snackdh.ney.fubp]aarna'sarn4fuhellat

jdILghtr!Lighloallht|].lssh]l

dcrtLbd Bur ir rhe rab,r is ho!

MANAGT\G TnaSMoCXING-PLEAT!t)EDGE

5Li'ri:c a nnod{hs-rrdrtr rds.

or tuldr shhlnh.d ry rh. trn.r b\r

CRUJHED TJ TLATIENEDPLFIIS

be or sdh{ ns nfdns o hasdnshsid. r|t Qd rno\N€ $'irh rigtr(

rhrkr aoJ ,n€ frur ,o\! oL ilolkd

I

STANDING ?].EAIs

'!q doubrcjord Lsn h dr.ds.

h.mm.d c(k. ovd a nar hbnce{.nsion rnd h.k rlre grco€ oI.rh pler b 'hc labnc undercrh.

lishe,l hy rh. smochns (Fig. 7 16)

ENGLISHSMocKTNG

5ha||wPL!8wit}rcnof3dkhiry'

E A t c i t y h : n E i g s h s m o c k i g

PRocrDLrRrst. ro $rimd. $e ,mounr oI fabric

nquird, tri& ro "Fibi. tu+dd

2. Pler rh. hbncrn(hinicaLly(EI€! b lsirs a snodtingPi.r'rf dn pasc 116). skrp $cps*r s and #i. .ominuc frrh

r. ro Pler fte hbricbrh'nd. markrhe *roi3 sidr or 'he Lbrn wnh: gid oI dob rlign.d ro rhcrEEhrsnin ol wovm &bnc.

rh. pkadDstobc choc. inaPPrDtrnn€ dor-,ukh8 ocrhod

U* a frbncerc mnkins bol

$€ hbnc. using a li8hr boxtor ohrDad isibili9r ald

. TndhouBh , dd s,o.ilplacd on bp ol rhc trbn.

br mq h $e nFishrsEb

nirch a htric t$mson or hpt rorE Plar fords in hrk, bdind dr

fitr,I bv df req6 or smockins nirh-

rhc cEft nikhinspadr ol.ddlodcd lralhD smocliru forerh. r4s dr 'hc Preied hbdc hb

shrped e,lge for i6 d(ohicdrrd. or shn and llnnh rh€ nn.h-ru I* d.ush froh Lh. tubri!.d8e b nlor for a nniehr *Rn or

FE v16. romhtutusbidtu

hdnd3&ch|helhadald.p]dbd

. Plirt a sno.l<'ng dor mnsf.rsl].d ovs dr libnc Tmsldrle do6 ro rh. hbric \dh an

Fis h 7 la) stenct and lb) saw'tued tandate ut6d b na* tdtue

PaPd Pancn or dr do6 u$

ro mBE mpr*DB b 'ne

(ro {n.h Nnh a 1i$ue Pars

L'L!.tru!tr rh.L6. rnr.o,l

In r r r l t l ) L r r ,a i rs l

rd lLddjui rbu. dn hLn.!

L | t r u J \ t r h . . . ! d l h r ! f t n l

Fig719Ale|p]ea]ihg'sccu|.lheseans la) t4 tpo adkLent tn,abtqctheL ot tb) Mrdnq parc olth'eads ,qtte 3 !/e ataDrdpns

{n.,$ rrLr i.rt \r[{

I

IIl

t f

L

. hnp'oq* r daigd v,hilr

0orr'g1l'.trq'ju{rh{N Lhcfubri! ^Dd i tor ro rool lnl dq

NorEs €.VAruATloNs

dxdr h rrb.i( ?nd :wtisnon

rhc n'b6 nLfircimLr ord u\ rrs

lu|j6 du,( hdEn,bi|P.d

squ{.d., }e r nno. and pnrdrc

u rD l r l dhdd ( f_ i s 7 l r ) sk rp

M{rbs dds o, rlr hLri. t dr

(r ) Nidr cYd,l)- pr,(n!J 3n3hui rlJid,. nrr$. .nr spofuddBlg!!, rolls! a srid dntrl.nbj-

(r) \rL rrr {$r. or Lh! tublc b

$r b alft nishn,, bd. tor !nocL(.

slanr a dd rftn ,nr[.d on Fpr

r|r hLr. oponrs rh. slrhA and

e'ni" (riis 7 r2) L i 'h. mdn dari. .nbroidcry nnd$ h€c \!r..

.abl. rh h,iqnr.h6. for rh.

. ! b | c f l r d h l h t E n g l j \ l r

r& ftar. trlLhdtrgtr n los$ !tr,!htishr \rr0 rh. d.i6 a. Ti.rd

rnis nrh ntribilr,! in,k oppo

rndrrmr dtsq6 for sDd{ig.mbFidery !re toLmr, etidrNq

indM. pn,orrl no,ir5 and pr sor solid nir.hru {trhD,h. rn(.dbands thl ccs dr Dlr.G. ix,nmd (onon €ohmidcq, nds!s rich cJn br $lr hlo fher nos

E+i budnr 5'o.iirg ptrshsrrrc.onv.ndos or!ra$i r:nglchsmocki,rs rr run6 lDeven ftn

(ctur rurmMd and celtuhl forFdnr' nrd *rr suPpodiry con-

nanr.ni uhniqu6 Lhd exFilnsultss.xdon in lLdE :a,hcnrson iEcgur'r srids (F g 7 2r),$rm

uNsuar embiodel' ni.h6 rinnch coobindio'!. 'nukiPtt 1ub6

{i!h$ lni,bh rhrcRd kDDl1roGt ,h6d5 on thc adr!., dbjtd3lrchcd wi,r nn.hhs and so on

wirh rddv olrhs, tu {r.rpronbs of rrr p or rubts. tonrulrdL by in\isibresmo.kinsnn.h,

inol|ing w.on8 sid. up Thesio.king G {olkcd on rb&kof,he Pre6 Edr surh and nirch

dhd on rhEnolonrnr oL $tPL.rs lrur (flone)coinbnirchh3. lhidr Equnc thEad Prrrdmd?itun,n tu hbric. B ulurble

hootron binned) kleFcsno.kin8 ard nghl !J. shd.rbs.atr Lc .o,nbid.d h the *m. pir

d hglch sf drkLdg,hd do$nr

s!rrhing raid down insid. rht

ni,rs, bkk ftF. and chril. *$narons sch grcoYe rrco md ro cnd.

gidov6. dhch the phfud l,bft b: niihn.d My Fo!ddironal riruE. rhnrd din.d dvr rhe ror ol, ube and Pullcd nur baak rhe

soo.ljng tuquna a rar ft loss atl

sr'ini'g enh Embreiderr c nrcsuh, rolds dRiqr br bNr of srh-.Ed!iLchingrenhrt rh. n,ni

D..ohu! ! ,nkhDc !mb.o iderr

nrlhEd and 3rhs.d Lo{s. \!rh i

mdsmih repltus,he hildEmhroid.ry drt rrdmi $cDlr,6 or eJl smochng Mo.ksno.r'!B E a PoPUL'r coundrdt

pFducd. ?l thonsh som. hd.ksdo&eE hrnd c,ibrodd ord $.rols b iugSsL &rhenriciq (Rtrn

ffi] : N

5 tc L s f l

I

, i ' ,

i , , , 1 ;i ' i l i ' , ,

; i l l . i i i , , i i , l i , i ; i , , ,l,llll ir,

ff iE \ a ! ! - 5 ! : r - f , . N C

r,ffi

ffiffifi

L t f l t l

I

iltiillN|l [ffi,d7

'ilrilililtt |l';l{lillrtrllr /lJlllll ll ilft.lJ,lri:

ltrlitit|Lt !i/r4r,!!!

lllrlilllil l ririt lllll

liillrlli|i{i i,l{,i(tlil|l I l|il |,rlt iltr]lq

. i . r l r f J j j . I , l i . i l l ' ( : : l ! l l . ] ' i i

DrREcrSMocKTNG

Fn3rLh smockhg hu! x(omP shs

PRocrDrrxEs

EnsrGL snocking rhar b.s$ on

I on gndded papE( prEpre a ddprrm ro suppoi, lh. snorlhgenbrcidery nirchE dos€n to

nndurc dc hbft wrh pl..b(refer h "smocliiru Enbrciderrs'irh6- on PasE t27) Eeh do'npro.nb tu pdk dr a fururcIotd and uil be d.ted up br asdrh rhe 5pe€ beN€€n dob

Gplcs /. (6inn) ori4" (r.it{ide re usull} rppiopnde)shigh' hdfmnl 6w! dI doBiidi.tu m.hnu pnhs lor lDneycomb. surfrce hon.Fomb.

slths. DGCns rhaundudt\qvr. reLLis. snd diarnond ritch

r. Mii[ rh. , ish 5idc or rh€ hbdcvirh rhedor I)dEm. alisrhg fttrc$5 fr'h 'ne nGish'Ciin dreovd labLn. B.Ior clDosn sone of rhe Iollo n3dolmi*ing

. ri$n drsm,k.! srbon

rhroush fie Lbric Usealigh'

U* an kh,ped rul€r ro spor

Pnkiqtrp&.bdor* n w.ft

nd No sdF(m do6 Ircm rh.eEe roN (ou ine and €ble). o!

(wivc md mllb), m pu[.d uuland bgdhs to ftre tht tubeJ!d.ch,!n€Lco]nP.sit ionoIlhe

lindyke) Euh slack b mah-d dot s.pahddn {F g 7 25).

F:s. vrl

l

NorEs €'VnRrATroNs

obnous dilld.nr *h.n .ompmd

unnjsEkzblr plecd subsfr dure

sno.kns end, $dtd arcn idmn

virh z snd-b6ed prEm GhB:haG. .hc!k. 5Pdkd d6icG).

rolde pDd!..d br r6rE.d dirdnodrrg B nuch difidem 'nrppunncc dDn G. rippl.d p1.dins ot EEsed Erylish smockhs.tuYeu.d dnfl' loolkig G ftdkedaM nnlhcd on d'. *mng ndc ofdE hbn. Brsu* of rhread !*ibilt+ Notd Eis 'he hone)Ionb

FrPedndrdl {lner fld.iri8 EsorLca on r gid oI uNvcnlyspacld doc. vhnh mer or may nor

Fiq. 7 %. tuEycatu sMins htetpretdt tot &et n@kins: ta) Prck up M.b, rny sr'bh6 lb) Daw the dob

taeeth{ M ptted th@d. (c) hen he Mrh hb the kbic d dat 2 4d btks

ridnd rlr dCa b i paddcdsul'rc. scrirrrrer[bg n h0sh.p. sram wnh an non hdd

'laDasing rM rno.hu Plsrd

' i f . ( l \ ' ' ' . ,I r . , tL r t , | r ' I i t l ' r ' l r ' l ' r r l l \ ' f r r r r , i \ '

,:r1{ jl{,1::rllr:Jlil}ill,v#lrl;1r: Jljlrllllll'lll1l}ll ::',11 :r'

tirtllil,rlr uiLrl/! a' l, i :Tilijtliii;f i/ffi liir t rtlv,l,t/lll+,9#l#XI##*#i{{:I{i1.{1i1"*r.iiltt 4It tt uvu Uagpt]/ltt/A!J:!lLl!t,!t tt I

lt:1t1.1.1,1.1..,t.: jlll.:i j):lll:{Jr:/ili'.+i{llil jl.lrlli.:it{r:,1, .:,:.1.:,ll:.'.li:liti;:ll":,'':l;lllll::il"lil lri :{ : i,l. , . i , . .

" f : l i , . , !11,,. , . ' r : i11: l i , . l , , . l

L - ' L - c

ffil

ffilrl,jrlijliriJrrlirl,,lr*f r:l;llhllSi

$&3firtr#rtrffi

NoRrl ANIERTCANSMOCKING

PRocTDLRES

t:

:r,7

dtirrrn,grrLfl (Lhr 00\{

l.dnnnrs(hg r 17) Flr [L

. f d r r ( l k d n r . h ( h s i r 3 l

l _ l l . - ! t . l

..-;i i-t_l-l

. Lr*i_l-l_i

G) Bnng he reede tp at dal 1, 4&tp ltot 2 'rd 16) rclrtn ta ptk q dolI G) Ptt dak 1 aDd 2 ta1ethet PB

pickUpda&12'3'3rd4wrhd]xhes

ba*etranltandssue h a tiry.

t l -

i.,r_l] l_- I

; / -

Fn lhor Lh! smclD8 nrkN

Norrs & VARTATToN5

uD(h r& nrtd tor Dakirgri,h a

e n d o l d o E l l l t l c l q l t h D d

DBlx chNr dr@mE,hHd

U:lii$:l*iiili? \ ' . -1,"r ' r l \ - r ' ' f ) . , ' . /

lll^!}lllliltll.' i r l l a t r , . ' . a r . Yt'1\tV.,','r''e \i |l. tri/

$wiiglN O i T H A I . , ] E R C A NS N l O C K N G

Fdd, e464as snd rr6arElr rdis d b,4 dcpr

R T H A I . 1 ' R I C A N5 t 1 0 c K N G

ITALIANSMoCKING

CoNToLRED ITAUANSn ocKJNc

dirld$d, lohed Por ror su.

hbr. r&!,hcbDrfn Lfts

n : ! : l l , ; _

; t ;i-,:

r i : : 1 r : : ,

- _ : - : , : r .= = - - ' : t - - il !

pznen Bpeat. tDoded tha ate vidrne natkinss, nat .tbhi@ intticatqs )

F!! PLus r,,(i rq!) k[ ! i!h,sdron,Lrc nir.r.n tlmrd

PRocEDLrRrs FoRSI{lrxrD lTALraNSMocKINcL Copy onc of rhc dcigns b

ris 7-r0 on sridded Frs zpprcpmd) sdled lor lne plEdrs

fold whE drE sdrhioa is 3a,h€ni

L v'k doE on rhe risr! side ofrh.l,bii., rlignbs 'he dd ruNswrh lhc $nlgh'€rin dI wolctrhbric. cho6e fabric sle mrk

'n. Prpd P{ko dlb br

dhud' ft rabh.. u$ s rishr

Mrlt do6 rhroqh punduE

rnk dr ddG rrur lnrkt up

ron plur r" (7 5on) ff qch

b. fo h. f lord 3nd 3tL NdL

dl!nd. d.d,t ' ] idtr, l4J '0iattutr !r\ .{ryft,c

srcuPhgoIxntkLlidos

trYo br $!. Pus r dr.^ libi! iroirnll q, rrN lhrJ,ln*d.

NorEs €. VAnlArroNsrudinnlr\r Lh, rahrsNi ror

ipplr.d ro I yanctoaunconnl

or rrbo! (Ers r 'r, 'n Rqu.dlorsNlkuq onprs.Ir5) Fd

daiA! o! prpei ro otkd !!

d6elr :i!c.d dutr rh! noG lrlDr

DarNun urd-shDd rh. mdr

6 ( L i m ) I h t u r d d n r l n d h l d !rcdL. ard nLtrlr Dr,!": l.x!ry ar" (7 5!m) hil oLh, {d i lrr , lr

aDd ni.rr rh. r.{ m\l ftrh0 rrtr

u,! !!n br uodoni for nnu,. hnn

thrsd fo sh,n.d h]ntr sno.hinsb&on6 a i5ibre t]n of I r rir

ruI\iln cdi(dionolrlrpl.rs

nifiq LhaD .onhutd lno.krns

TucK BAsrcsEXTENDTNG IHfTucKrNG FAaRrc

$'tuching

. . i hL rn . | s

JJilr,ls cotNclrNc; ty/IHTI c(5

u{,h hr rhe {ord osrh..dg.

Gnrinu€ rft ruckirs(Fis s tl

Fs a4 ta) fuckhe cadhued ac@$ F€vius sans (b) r@h@ qted

STANDARDTucKs

snndxdtu**ansxe*ci8l[a|d

rewrfmd mqe d:n f| pmm)

f u d 5 w 6 N o f o d l h : d e b y c i

5E1M5 PEIIENDICL'LAI{IO IL]C(5

\o! ftk.d \rrh diliitnr rnanet

L !r ouLtr@ \rno th hlni. rhings.

ni arbdrins nr c(.niotr 1o rh.

\un ntrk fdrds pbjrd or a$ lne

(rt Fhtrdr rlr lu.k rol!15 \nl,h6,

nror ar $ or l rrs r.L.d and

c Fjsuic lne brl 'mutu of faLfic €quicd for fie tucl<in&

a. Estblish nusuEnms torrhe vidtl, ot a rucl (h. epec

beN.en No adFqt Nch

fit frrhin rht blgtr n.mn

Fi$rc de tobl anoutu oI htPRocED(nrsr. Erimderheamou of fabric

nqdrd ror ruckiDg lnd dn

ApFl) one oI rhe following

rd dsigB nin urcqur EckwiddB end spaang. Iold prp{ roty our difl*rr .nngen.n6.M6urtiEFatofthech6n,nangmdt b.IoF ,nd :I?r fold'hs. and alcuhc fi0n $rt bsis

1 En,blish mssuftnmb forth€ riAi or a tuck (he speccba,{n ru.kilmanl tuk

b. tud @t hov ruy s.k d[ ntfrtu tu 6q{ i@lrzf.nl

ru.k. mmsund f, om fold rc rold,

rnng. \vl'tn rtntred tu.ks r.edoubltd rhcn .ombined qid B.qurl rh. Nidrh h Lh.Iohulrs(Fiss 3,r.3.r0. and 3 ll)

hghr sidc oI hbnc rhd hs b&Do' ro sic (EI€! b Ex'udiner}r ruckiig Fabn!' dn p.sc1{9) [\q tukhdelolllin.c{tr.dbcn*ssosdthl!8lins rbd arc Fdrh.d rdr (milg (F g. 3 6) bur i,arki,,g all

Fg33Band9filg||Ck'fuha

p@* and b irdtaE 11) th"Mtu d the tu.k and (r) he e

|aldo||hep|evla6lysewnfuck'

For nrhire s$ing. (dtrtorn€edle dGune Imn rh.Iold-cd .dgc by aljgning rh€ Ioldfrrh m*kinss on $. irtdl.

.llow,n.r guidc, lih msk'inc upc nu.k to rhe bed oIrhe nFchhr. q by 8ng (hcnsh' edg. dI 'h. pftstr lod

sev tuc's ||jth a stabhB e kat

bp {h.n dr ruckis foldedlor *aniD8 i{Fanlin8 Lnesry r arl (Fig 3 7)

oprio.sl {hm Nck vidrh sDb. .onFotlEd trth r *Mng

g,rC. *h'1. hR.d s$in8

nd onunMllyfrd. to.ks

Ddbled..nd{edced 0clsneEd so nnlhing lin.s(F1g s11). For d,pp.ry I:E

pitv.nt hbn. fter rnd6suE r.uGsr who 5s ing

Itngrh or 'n. hurly I'dd roldov f t rh . .dgeo fabb leG€Nentrd ruc[s lighd) ) Pi! tneI'y.6 rosdher aid nn.h srh

avay rrom rhe rucr *!n b

indtd.d, h:nd s$ Nith an

bdrd 'rkine B,ugc (F e, 3 3)

l l ' ' . ' ,

FIga6 ' | h |Dcksbeb |eseng

ru.k on rhe rop rnd bonondgc of th. hbnc. nrk,l8wirh a hbdcs ednlPpdine

\i$ fie rule, aDd irdnakrold li!$ vlrh dc.ppsing

ins{r loll ber\en rhe e+e

llor onbr.l tutk ftr{very lishrLy) Alisn tolds rothe sht+qDi! or soE!

$me mnnq bur drh diff€.ed marrhge Gio'hft .dlo(longo baning nn.r.s, or

achnftlh.) Mark t{i.hing lin? b rhr 1.ft ot rhrlbld lfHn. 1inc vtsible on

!.win8-a! sscdgc lboq atr.ds. l1ldrci or an adjGrbteblindhan loor k..p phnud<

fdr, q rds. rtE tu.kerd rh. srq.d pr65r rod

9!€ ]nafu'u dn. ,nd iP

mrkrrgs *hrd {}iry rI

larh 'r.k b.foE nanirrs ross!: Avoid sn,$d8 tne nrk-irs or bsdu rln.d! Ln ,ht

ondarl s wdl6a Pnma.y

. Fdr iI hur cmerd tu.ks.

ro prord tne Irbnc. Tun rrucld Lbft ,o rhc b,ck :ndlEsagainoniprddedgl.hr Lo PEs€ryc rhc dNtrsio,ulrr of dt llrrrce folds.

bc,w..n Lh. tucls:nd rlrhbnc b.loft piasins G€rs ro

. Forrtnt Gdtuck (nu r

rhc belorc pnsin8 (fi& 3io)

rurk. &i,s fte ft,td lir ovdE *con.hry {DrLhe. drcn

l)r6i'g (rig 3]t) dsapn

nsid. rle rucL tu& ro op.n

s(un rr,. rrk nnds d €a od

illovinc: roPnndr dden th.niddh olrnbnd and doubted

Jor..nEEd tucksbrr rcldh

mmdcd tor ddublcd.,nd lenkred tucks. Aft& LdPinlhirs.

6 Rtfcrro Ertndins rh. Tr.king

Nolfs I VARIATToN5

our r rhud ltuh dtr Ndn df Lh.l:rbflc ru.o fie hbn. ro ft. bKk

wh.n dsnng rolds pno! b*nchb8. ford rnd pr* cvu th.(hLshr eilsr of z nnp oI hsr.rpaD& arLgn.d ,o ,hE sraishBGinbd w{r oppdn k po3r,o! m{ks5!{e rhe *:n,lins of sdja..n,rds ar le-, a prc$crloor sdthrpi( a m.aucd rrom fie n{dteb dr kfi. Foi rh. hml pr*ns.

/\risn rhe folds or hPecd tu.raro rhc shiqlunin dl Lhr r,bdcerc! u,oush rhc hpmn3 *rfrssrnDr. ei'nr arrnErnu dr..!drrtun u.k d rd{ (refer r, Fi8.3 4).

Th. sfddrh srruq nd diy

dtmanG €xad nen'nn8 xdrikdg. accuEr fotdins. 'M

*m$ nnlhcd plunb4rai8hr ?

B.lol. ndkiry, h€ t|t8€in olroED hbric and nsm praespftad rhe hbnc orc R nrr,..rsB?r ,ha! rs l€ngrh rna rddr aMhold ( hur whir. m,king. us,, se.iddal cudng bo.d fo! iEishr.n.ssdni@'op'iomlfdnddslollold lind ndkhs rhr mry bc

ittL5+

d d t i t u c t u o w t u 3 f f i ( c )@ anq evle atu (b) @sad with tEshb||dn)kdfud|fueb5ltnry

gl.IL'!n'$il lpudll lo$ul

rlkrd d$iq ippsr5 uadrleL

fE$o roo, rLrn( tab,ns ir. trd

s \ r [ ( . , s 3 r1 ) .Nn D(dL r

lhehalehthe|irge|be|a|e1sednE

rFLs 315 ) P r l ! .G ro f . d {n [

Fige13,Fabftrcsh4edgihds3

. FF L

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i il :

a

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tr

Ft .

i

FrFtrF

IIa

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E .T Its Et

E.FrFeEkE

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It

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5 - I A N D A R D - I ] C K 5

| ] j ; n r r r t n { i . ? r E i e i o : ! , i { t

lril

* ig l

til1 . .

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tiiftlil!il1

ltilii

i;"iiiLiiiliA..Y^i\(1. j,

CURVED TUcKs

PRocEDURES

sund{d rucLs Lhd b.sin on

Phn rn artr4.hrlr ofcuard

i..o,nndd,r. dr ruck. ldd rwo

,hc lcrsdr o! Edius or th. hbi.whd rurqt rf,h. rab.ic is !ur

Fq €ch (u.k,nnk a fold l,n.Rnd ri uPpd ud lq{ sanrin.

id(dI$enenqorbyn6ul

cEa* Ed' {ord rtu {nh ftc rip

l incniih nning {ch!5. o!

{rh6 w(h $e ruck fotded.

on lh. lowd s(Dlii. q!m$tby*smsr udl I

Pin o! h6E rrrc u.k smtLnc

Prls beroc Pmccdbs ro rhc

NorEs €r VnR oNsThe hLn. bc.vrtn .uned r.ks

shourd L! luclFGecaDd,ir bc if

d uDps *anlint or.kh ru.k ts*d sroorhLti Thc llN oL .uM,u'ud$ ii pro8esirq rhe,mounr d

N d e P r r . I . r r . , & P o p i r t :

] ; :

: : :

i : i

SHELL TUcKs

PRocEDURES

shndal Tu(k na brgrn on

2 r, hxkc nachile.nirchd shttl

o*r+e nirhi)8. suidirg

dL! ivings ro rhc iighr. r jLs'mG$ the edsc Jusgl. nn.h[ng , rh,ighrocd b|non

dbrind ftk ]/1" (6om) roZ" ( 1.3.n') rid.. Mxrr thr

brinA ,h. ,hrad ovr th. Lu.k

i eqls spaccd ar 16r brdrim$ rhe ruck rvid$ aDit. To

hbnc ff8 F.r tvo, shrlls.hrk NeE4e Poi,s ,irrr

sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up,Lo a p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn\r,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtrrulkf8 Alotr ro coot md dr

NorE5 €t VARTATToN5

n,adinr an lloduc Hor.v.iddE hd€ aDd sndur.d, (nrred.dr kPrrcd &l5 eo hav.shdt-$Rlloptd.dsc b) o{dlge {i!h.irs:rrr |lt,ucls [iv. bcurrame{l inb the hLnc. Fahcshellftks,r 4 uchin€ ntrfes oo.c

rhc dn ctu$ lor lund siLfudrhdl luclhs aft sl)dtu Brins r

,.a tad. b l,,tr' wlidr 'unB 'hrIold foNnd b imke $t slishr nn

wnbrhrnrl"(ll!h). Lh. ftJldr

ruds,n,r- L. $llop.d udr i l.{

roLd.{hth hrlp3 ld B,Lh hr

'h! oYsedse nir(h$:, e roo dort'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rhe ruck.

levd rhn. ltn b hnd rlupptu

(scr phoG ofshdr ruck on

ovcdg. nnlh s rh€ ddrh

on rlt tubn., ford 'od $en

I r c I l b ! ' , ! J ! ) c u ' d

{!h kk risll siL. o( nl

CoNToUREDTUCKS

' " ( i r m ) w d i o & d e d s s s r

PRocEDUTES

dr roL Lr'! urqLLsL !,rg! !r 'hl

Lh! tulr 6 fdJd n{ 'Ni'g)

I .

t :

t .

I

FA 3.21 f'e .nbtPd wi{r seans

NorEs et VARr TroNs

ruckhs prllE. (oGidft rh. efl(' ien6!o|ad.signwh.ni*

tuk rols aod dv.ilips, nrgcc t][

combine dilr.rtn' .dntoubg pr.

$i11 show u!h$ ,ht ,ndum oL

(.frDk fu.tr,whi.h look * ilopdliDgsureotdru8h,bPhy{ of fabft 10 .\po!. .idrhcr

or id.nlra[y conbuEd trdG 'hrmd in rhe cedf sii.d lryholcrcqunc no h.kl Fmcd h 'hr

.ombinarion nue be exL': r*dlu.k or ettual widlh ,fd .onron.

lDLc ruckb8 prEr on 'h. rold ora n.ip or pip.i (d. Iold b !vl,oclne Luck will mfttr olen rhc ndpb kr Cr k.l[olc d6i8n Ah{

r!ck, and pns,ng rhc lol& k fac.ich drhd [ind rv th€ tulk5iosdhs rh$e th€r 'otr.h unnsd(oc'ive o. irusibl. !ii.hing

sdri' rii.,'.d .m.o!r.a &.Ls rrcrhrp.d ris the tu(k5 hRv. b*nnitdd A bdrdd ollhmd rc.venB Lh? ot .dg6 of $. r,hicltun frling Dd ale .dph*t6dE conroucd pron|a oI rhc ru.E,{fto rGlins Lhe omNr odo tb.fronr of i fi*[cd tuk. !u' o ondr.lift and in nn.h dvd ]n. .ur

ftr ncrhod: FoUoN thc ti!.dourlinc $itL $in sdrhing onovethchbncbqond ft. sun lrchdconbua bj .uning fmm n.!dhhdl. to nccdL. hole dln sd{I.

Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala

Mkhin$ w1G r dccdon oI dElqnivt nitchc an b. pro8hnmd

$am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd

rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndesMbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso|lwD zEzas.arM tuk beethel

-_,,l _- __. _

. *j ..-*.r .-:.. -

l ! t

(

(

II

{

1!

)LAIIJED I IJ 'Ks

( i n m ) w & c o $ . ( a ! r e g u a r

PRocEDLnas

( r r r ) \ i . o i n r d n i n L o

n ' r k ( \ o 5 r s h $ u c o n r

t{rlt rthFrlr rnsotr?djacnr tud6 ro o\d'lL

rrr aord rigir rp rD dr! rd

| , j ldNlq,,k t l i5h$ (bl

hnL(iu' bu,!ft Ll{ tu!L ((n

L!dh racLds\tror r Frd.d

nf!i8h, F rrcm ,rrr fold md

unhn, erTely qaed sDiE to cB

NorEJ €t VARrArroNs

b Fonn i{ an .{n bn or r, irr is

N'h sl6hs rtagq(d i,5u((d

Fs j25 rd hake shads teeh: t3) sp8

sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.ks6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6

Iabn..an L€ pilEtnuftd rllow !i1h rnip ftLnaql rurkr co(r

ulprs.d blind iuck FnryE 'h.tr'(*sand. ifLhc tuhi! !,1!d{n.aubnniary sh xnd spin dr i)ilLnbh rrd ldftdl'M $il,|cd.

R {rhdtrB. tu.15 G sprniro rhRd.fioc lodpi rl 'd(l

{ft fdl& illgn.d ro r|f nnqh'gn,n, tlNads,re pidad rdJ Ptrlldl

rhchdp ot, Ld,g trlrdl. orpi,B|tor unravtr1i,,s. diyjd. tns'hy

.LTs r(r.ndtulr Ld'lr 5!rn.Afts cigng, {Rbrltc virh i $nd|n,ifug:ig:agnn.hit&los,hr basr of r frirse b rrc\ftlnor unnveLlnre (Fq 3 r0) rn.ks

,u.rd hbn. nnrengrhtD.d u'hli 'u or p,rs-on irtnalin8 1o

tulrlledlnng. trrks $c lnnlcuLFlr rft!!v. o fiI,n. w rn

vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy

th,nrwli@$rud! drhx|]]n.EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labftIsr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull(Fis.3-ze) Innsd oI zisa&ing.

FE 323 skshins wirh rcbhes b

rhr N.dsc i sid. r|t rtrck tube roIom tLt arsh (Fi! 3-2e) Ladds

rakinA .arc ro |r-tft hbn. dNads

Fg.s49shapngsha*5le|hbypushing|h6slasheded94fuehe

rtntnd nkks *sntd do$n t

bcIF sDpping ,lk! Lh? rring.Isn loopd b lalcrcd lI rllc rrb,n

/. // ,-

. / . . / . _

. / , . / , _

/ . / . " _

/ . / . :

/, / _

{ /

S L A S H E D T U C K 5

CROSS-STITCHEDTucRs

wne drthins th *er the 6ds

PRocrDrRrsr. tuvrw Lh. pro&durcs for

L rnablnh a!6e olto.k.d hbn.. For undurado8 tucks, droo*

pin. !pk.d. dr brhd rud6

low ndgir ngulirly 3pkcdBuidelin$ mnkcd mrh libft

. Foi unduldins dck, alrs

rcrc Allow sumdmi sDkeb.rwen dFcrr ros of.rcs

c\€Ee djEdonfr onr dng-s6s uP th€ fabnc Gig.3 t1).

. rbr howaied uck5. Provide

r}e rolds oI rhe cenbEd Nc|.s'o br pr[.d up rDd bcked

rred r.k b'o bouied ruck

*ftl,ins, hcl d. lbtdcd .ngc

p.ddeil board. sd rh. Pmj.df8

ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n

Norrs & VaRrATroNs

'h.3per n&dcd berw*o rhc owso1 rop$n.hing ro rep lh. hbricfld Unduhting d.lls rrh :heishr wheE rh.y cha4e dnrrion'haL rquii5 'hE depln or the rucksrhc hcishr or a bow u.d u& u alirle ls rhnr h3ll dE {idrh olrhe

allowrDcs .r dr dr(G oL ln. tulsTo make ft o osov{ rop*irhins

ovcdlldsig!.ukld&oRdvtiiLch vhen seNins UneveDlt

lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidlyn€ishr, .fr.nvr ly partn inlo.Dal. loo$r app|natioE oI ro$-

bgdh& inconspiludtrsly a dn d

bsdL{ ritb boq-ri.s oroma.nfthl rhrdd or cod ardallorrhemdsrod,ngle For a dsign in

ruds on lh. rop ol ,loubhd an,l

*ffiffiw:

til#llllNt,

{w$\[\\r#ll#dll##

CRoss-TAcKEDTUcKS

PRocEDURTS1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor

sundid li.ks rhl bcgin on

rh5. , rabicyG dnrpp.xrhgpe!. or lhnlk rn Idrspx.ingIis| rpplling dr sclcctd t.h

bc,w&tr lacks o) Bd,srh{ needle our d rhe luck!

(l) am' '. thmd dvd

*an Pullrhr t]lsd

ponrion {G) 'n f'g. 3 rl)

{idflurks: (l) ln r ' l ]c

'h.*olinbIk.runliq

rhr kfr lold. (l) cr.hrh€Iold dirur! opl osne dth

bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n

dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc

doM (1 )s tonandcurr]t rhErd-u arry the

posn,on ((b) 'n Fis 3 rr).

rosdhe and, ln ld\ei, kck

GE 3 r+) rh! wo klls trrbd\*o'. lodrd j's' ixide 'h.lolds rLioN ,lr cds6 b cun up

NorEs & VARTATToNE

bdw.tn hubhlt 'u!r hlk 8ubbl.Nlk5 rN b{ rid on rlr sortrc

ibbon. l.aYhs th( cd cids drn

slins, xqd rh.y * p*fttrla y

.jLlcd tuda n<d $Ifiltnt \pacbctrll lDb.kjn3poi'Bbpnvd{lltpul on ih. rull no boMns rl,e hl}d rtt( I r oblcd. rh€ 5bnd oI a6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn

rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.dtrtrks !m Rnd lr*h $th h.k bth. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqinlins and rod or!trEr Bdd bubbl.

. bp liJeoIcoMcd{ndlar.erd Ncks c$lFdad kking

il

' f u c ( s

PARTTALLYSEAMED TUCKS

M rypes of P:dart $amed rlcksl

-ranl.l e.kr rth podom or

|oosefo|dsf6m$esamedfo|d!.

PRocEDtREsl n.vrw thr poaducs ro!

su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on

suh.d ru.k dn gEPl Pale(

nlel lin6 to indic(. rhepin,sp{e4 brrd. $adurd, cm

ll ol m into un*m.d loldsd d6Eurd poirB ((a) inFis &rt) sp.riry ,h. q,Pe of1uck, tuck $dth, rhr spmbeNen hck, md Iotd pi6si'u d'frrdons on fte Phn.

. For imcrtuptd tuck, ounin€

nn.hing vnl be $spcndcd{(b) b Fiq.3lt) rhGlaE$e rlan into a full{L.d ,!.Ling pakn. sprd our robcludr sprt. ror $e uckfolds, silh tu.k ssdld$rcred b$id€ thc ccnlmd ldldrrnc. Lihi 'ur liahlor ani\trn|d uh daigrb r.

F]g'ajs'D.slgEh|padialy.*hed|uckwjlhkMindi9fugw6ttatds: la) Betead tuk wk

stq3. (b) tntwbn tucr; \|ik brc-

3 Using x r,bic.qre, Enishhs or

frark rhe nshr sidt ol rhe l,ln.vtrh rold liIE ard *:mhrs *

:mnsemcnr Mx& rh| pdDB

FoI irL,!.d ru.k, .xpand rhe

tuck dd$s bsid. L\t tdld lin6Fdr bkrrupred uck. fte loldlins ltun &. pdeD: hce

4. Fold .nd sew nr dcks b)

Pull ,hE erd of ft suirmc rhl€dro rh. ba.k and ri! the n€edh

beloa rnmdng lht drt,& rrtr

bekdch or nnch in phce ro

rdry ror cros ock.d pfum.5, r(51h€ {olds orr.l6.d dck

rel6.d rohons ot rh. tocks

iD&nprd tucks, sftrh rnapin rhc e4$ or dre Nckins ro 1

i r cnhdd ju {$o !c lh . su ,corrhe rucks. and alloq h.ool

6. Rds b "Exhding . ru.ktng

NorEi & VAru{TroNs

d<ocdYq they lundion $'n.rh{I'kc plti6 ro crEre and conhlfullDc$ in rhe m,rr.d !.dbc dI$c fibn. Th. lullnss..n bc tsolr€d n one o' on borh mtls of rlE

rucked side or dE *am.d sidt olftl.aEd tulk5 can be skced forlhcrightsidcwhcnth.iin.dsid. is oubid., rhc ru.k in bkk

Unlile rel4.d Nclis, {abric Dattm.dwttnDtnrt@Prtdfuckln3d€ign nmbs shbiliucd thmugh'

nonrlad ruck lolds ssnd, rnalne pdls 'bd rplae rhe inreE<

crcs pmjcc' .vcn non. rhe d.vaddn of rhe purs is decmined by

rhd db.h*gc tu pufi. shr papddanning tonn intmptd tuckinsdaiq! a! r Iully prcdnt rh3 dorh

:

i :

t :

SEAMLESS TUCKS

irofg fien eisth There are No

PRoc[DUREs FoRCruslER Tuc(5

duncrs, dii l lL Lhl urrd mLalEord br lh.,iklntrnbc ol

hr bcr.ur ro!a. Dosu(

trrn {lss 6f rhr hbrrc iuan(

!n. tdtr hr.k rolds tr rh, -

&k5. 6\r b!!l( rold. roi Iotrr

l,e.!{n trvo b{Ljold dob

b a.md r]I hrk lold dds on

b!${nw't]lddsbrd'!nccd h 6su( &{ n.b Nori

tdsc to rds. (,) in Fis &r6J

ush8 {uiJ,v drrn n r orr

Lq:{hc rishr r on ,he thErd

dud pnl nn.Lrs. no'ins

dun{ tur ((b) 'n rris 3 16)

ln& l.ngrh. pin rh. mds k, aluddd surtx. and n€er n i'h .i

beoledd4&lorcr ing

PRoCEDLTRE5 FoRTIED TucKsr. Phr a (Pladns. tull.sEd r.h

No dob.oN(td \i1h a lb! b'iliut or rie (F{ 3 ri) rh.

!kAn( rlr 6lrri. h{roE lnd]fr]lLrcdnrduf'hd*ntra

I wlh ! tubiavtu Psr or ruril,

6sdh.. Fo.surr!( trls. dd d!n*hr 5iJ{ (he r.hn'qu. hllob{rtu drc ddc)r lor(.6e

Fis. 3 36 ra nab tubt lrcb: (a)

atistEd vdhatty and hd,htaty lb)

fujmp'lirg|hesrbhesloge|he|

i - r - i -i i - j

i i ii r - l

NorES €t V.4RrATIoN5

{drh ol& tuc|ls brinhricbulru'ldemo$ concal Lk idE Rnd

BlanLs lillo{fs sridi$d pd.

oorhning virlr tr'!l$ 'hi un m 5Lrn,,l,ldndLe dorn b ndlh'rs

too rh| rabiA surli( (t) Mrkr r

lxrtn $,.idins 'he lhs apfl b

d.d r trp No rulk wlnr drds'gtr F r.d (r) fti( rhcpd'Lm

hbn+{rE dnip|!{14 pd' or

Lbn! wnh r li|irc po{iL. oi ror l

\trh dhd rratug. (r) cau$ns b)

thtd$ so ({) rvhlo nNhd pin

o u r d r ? r c 6 b d l c c o , h c , u ! r c [ d

dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5roondd!* ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgtth!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnighand rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn

t!"t @b-s la) tde 3l a\ atdana aar "F

q aq\hq lb . d) Pa$a'dat-wrhsbgg*dsp2cirgard.hangesin

r][ fcdk inro ore dd and

Fiq'3e'P|epaingbreafuCkbyCannechga@no|bb||ilh@t

. Nhtn surf?f lrirs in Go

.orkd ir b{k. r'h.. sof

. Fn rvd* ')ing dn$ir

rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't

'u.r'Dg ro . peddcd boaidsrnn Nnh,n nor hcrd iun

: '

l

I

_} r i

I

PATTERN

dineisioia zes d*iqm wiih .udin8

PRocEDURES

xre pin nL.|d 1b Plo* rhr

rn vq$ua ,he fabrn brfoc aDd

rng dE hLn. reqnnmcnt. or

sdcL}'1,Ldns|.J:dfbo'h

|'nmlr'd dk on a riBhL6d d Mdo{ dunne drrliBh,bc\,N r ri.sofrhcpn

horr'. ind rrrn gdtrlr rflh.

i.{*dqllt L G ddjl|]h'

ju* rLrod of rhc n(dr. 3nd

io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn)rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s

rae nid, oD onc sdc oL ftrrhtlnd asu.tuenfuh or rhc

d6br dth are.hatrs ruhhine sflch-

ll.hn) han one sb at the theard btins | tut '/6" t1 snn) itanllElha@lJlesifudiBc|lyw6ibMoviE toNatt stqhql, kk a tiry

cahtirue hack ard tdh (b)ahet,,{|ch6'pullhe|h.ead|aut|abig

6," GN'n) vid. rhr ro!.trd{arLot th Lhl o{dr.

dn crion. olc'rding {nhLhrcad tmbo$$ rh. dsien*rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e atup. lLk. .dsc (Fu 31r)

ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@aswt \{n ,nh) ta the tetu at the

tide tudu oppast4 stayins a scanlt/s"11.tun) noh ke the d ethel

|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg

fahnc sentq Ph murd 'hr

suili( ol rl]c tudG aDd rlorh$ol Jod dl,lbttoro uvhg

Norrs 6 VAtLATroNs

.mss.:rd $op ind n ansh{.

inic d rhr kdnil0. Anex(p

P ; T T E I N i U ' ( N '

FilledReliefs

P A R , T F O U R

Q Cording

CORDTNG BASlcs

CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc

arrnrrNc

n,s uri r aPP{oi !odirs I

HAND-SEwNCoRDEDQUTLTTNG

comhiiedon rh* embcser :i nEr]a.igd*giintoihesrhcef:hft

PRocEDuRrs

dri.e. No Diialkl. ev.nly5Pe€d rin6 rhc lin6 d€rin.

ina'lai .nrfrn'ng p!rh! thrrrPP€r b N€l!€ olq znd und.Ldn. ,nd'hcr where rhe double-

nop5 d. prosns0n df rdhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier

channek ir m$6. s(au* ol

nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd

opyof'he dsisn onro rhe inn{

cuno rhc dcncd sL. (nrd 'd

. For runi,ns nn.hld cod€d

. rn b,.k.sdr(h€d co.dedquilling, tri!. rhc daign dnbrhE su.fee 6bnc rsjDs . lantsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc

BsE rht inDd linDe b rhc

d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrchs. AL PofB vre (o${!s

dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe

b{w*!,hE fabnc byqs ro dr

rhe line co{irucs, hkinS . linrbekdrh on dch sid. or tr

t s 4 N D 5 E W N C O P D E D A ! I T I N C

F{ I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h ' lr

.abte catd: la) Pake and Msst,a the

taryatd (c) LeaE shad bk wh*

1Ti l

NorF-s €t VAR,ATJoN5^n{.o dtr,g. rh! li6n! Ld{lqr

rr,! lnd r,nnr rhJon.rs sha, d h.

dDorls /" (6 tr) widc {! jLLr!rrrh| !trt,( hr,nr r* sullrnr

!$ or rh! inilrrrhg hrin., b(

annr! fllf r,{, r/ (6imJ.hrn

.onP bs a L" (6Dn).hrnn.l

(6rnr) drmd nLlld v,l, 'm

lable.lorded .rarrl hN. 'nd!

.!ble.!{ded hb.ic,r liunr nh,unLLluo Fn lrrd hhLi(

(nnn) d,trnd A doirr!,r qnJ.

1[rnr\5 r ' lt chaoDd 1(hinrd

Lf'3 e rl .huN, hfe.r'n(dko h o d k n , ! n h 0 r q r i u n r i i g

,l,rmqi bf rha,d.d rhnrusf n

d.nsrn r. rNd5ibL 4srr0d

rh. lrdr. !I1l'! hirs s,r r,!P\ lLf'otrGid ]t olnnigr tr. trLAg.d

larhnrs rfiL a iDg(ndl u

dnnr -rdri.r ld .o!!td und{.

!hirnrr Jod !d,he yrD n rhf

ncrhcd LxPuLLbs rfr][ dumds

he nnDinn R.n,ov. rft nnns(|,is q.r) JoLr rkro dN.Lop.d

- : " - - , - 4 . " - - - , . = , ,

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-tt ' : , \ i : :'l<,/'-:\: A:'

r { D d h n o s r i r . , r d N n t !n{ligr..td,n,oai! ihoi

l l i lLn b(L{i(hia l 'u*'Lr inDd

cta$ore thtead haus the cabt-e card tn da.e

I :ri*r.'.1t l; l-!.-.4<_i,{ffii

I arrr!'!r!r&rt . -

+:!rc**

M,rcarrr-5ewlCoRDEDQutrrrNc

PRocEDURT5

h1!. PrELrd dorbl! lDclhaDnrls

h fft.d 0€ s$) rnll l tu

(6dun r h$ nrforshnnirLl

d(r rrior urisf ro$ oa rh.d6 3r onro dr hurs (rL.L

Prsr l0j) trarf ' lE linrngb

hs rlrrr dais! Equns 'oF

uDoi(]btlb!d|gl]tunL5d rr l ro'!i i ' balr (r) P,LLLrrN oLlJrr thFad rp rdl qr olr|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc

n r h r s q n & k i o L o ) r n $ r

md1.rr$1, LhL o{dh nno rh.rlriDs{ dr lan *rcr orl[l

rlredsr $nnoir (+) sr!r!

durs dsdibed on |]sc t39.

ar i r r i rA Gr { r . r$m.cdd56! aoidrDS on Plg. L37l Mo{

\trh an i hrl{abq! rhrht)

q h q ' d t b n { L h . t ? h n . l h I \ l l

con(al Ed! Ll( Ld!!s.oPr d

NolEs A VAruATroi\'s

lbou rind *$n.o.ded aui d,g'

+nP'uuq'htL0(|hg/h.ginnnlg

(r!5lb{\ m rnr Bdo,r {\ ir:.

l idrr d,h:peina bdycrlhmre s FoL !,rid ordns. dli

.h.i,nd! or,nod.rk lu,sLh HLh lnPctr\ trLldrc o bqLkN orr('h. !nd rlmnsh 'lE !hDn.ls qrh

h3$fdi(f i 'dmd]cds'.nqba.k 5dd a rm @d 'h,r bu

Pr$s loor frrh a sF . in 'he k.dnL choN r d,nr Iahic 'hd vnps

Fltrdns dinlnats.oin{nim sa npznt xlnit cLEnud srthLnB

(Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf

tr lNgI 'hr lLnh8 iid qrdlli

L, lorpd!tu lor 1ltr .u, \irr oI thentrh(.IiLri( orr Lht q'Js Prr

Lhc lLu!3 u' d'! jdc (2) $rhrhc n i(.fibri! up rNlhcfisLsan Gl h5slr tnn roid. su.h

rsriE, ihe $N $rhrziPpdorqdis k $ nN Ld r1r cord.

(+) corhu. addins c.'dcd qr5.

(F g 9 9) lDdi.n. oosured 5p.ain8

*ms proenls th ud ao h!

'rh. humpLd rds6 a'uid b\

noNrtd \!hcn .ord G nitdrdirsidr r]t lhrDncL BLh( dNr

{dd (F'g 910) rL E€ithflndhod oIm$tun. th! rmho*cd

nnh knoln ud lwisb 'hd !lx,*

Birh Jhd(r/rt ' r'r-n . h . , . d i f g , i | d q ' o n i o Irhit:d.n.lo$ rh. !ord rviredLe or :iszis {r(h'ng n'bni

h e s c h i n g w i l ] f u a b l e | a w a p r h e

laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the

lne {B.d r{lr or qrd's sd' Li&ro | lup oI pudnc Iabn! sun*n.hmsN(h1kq lcqtrd

Lordrn rcdl.s Guide lh. .oidund{ r]t rk${ kD' b {trdrtrg

taj cad insetu afret swi@ he hannets atu lb) cad bsed.d thte

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PRocrDLnE5

ir(L{Lqn (ds k) .{J\ [{.o dlrs Dfis. Lsn fn 'ril

r.Lhn( (s{ (ii !r r rs e it

o {hr d idir(d. dr..tr\l

@ . \ J . . J . ! ' . '

q rhe djr-4-ea.-F between b-F

b) fre nnintn space b,4||enseans tat adkcent .dded tubs

.,fdtr.tr!! (lr \1ur Lor) Lhr

snnn.nor i rrl i(ld rLrr

l!, ,1,! .!rr,atr!o .r ri6,rtor

NorEs €t VARrAroNS

.onlhuotrs'i 'Frordng$.Iltrt6b'

,iotrs $N th..nds ot rhr fubn!

Notr burdis r]I flaLs or th. N,nwhcrc rlq ,nc(. n s$ 'he L!1bLLI*

*wtr.o,d.d qniltns. surr!( <d.d dDnnelsnDise !o s or r

c o L t r g o n p r g . l a 7 ) P d k m s &

rrom Llt r,bn! !d br .trr.d rnd.oil.d dMnA aDntnmn D.(hrd.oklirg is ude tson dF d{ bhs dtr

(Fis s LB). Th! .oil t oachinenrchtd h'i& thr c.'Ds \d' r. n, nich2od-od h oncoF.

a,Do: (t) Fdld bd\*rr lItr

{n (r) I$qr dd LBidr 'lrpinn.d tord o) r\nnDgth.

F4hinc Gr 0, in rir eit

,rn lod ,rnvrds: o) Pli

orro$? 4singsoi€ (r) s$!

rhe rrc$s loor o) I hndinsl h c c o d i n t a , P $ L ] n < d k

iri,lc tu NhuLr .asinss G<

tds$ or surr,le-cordd fah, r ror

&$ l] trdtrd crn|! o\ s dr*!munderosLh! b6r \i(h

qL u idE sough h indud. s! RRrn

Parar rirhs^drhg q|l (.n

rtro ) 5lutr jqnnA Lrc Pi(s of tuh-n( o hrDs.!c i toMd:tron h

q.il d! noP a rc$ i!trm'LLx ford

brr(ri8 o n) For .LilL(i apPl.

as ene. la) PlTs/weane bt irsan awratb tb) P,p)nctuenihs

b{{PiPhghlldngiIreif l i .

oI hhn. trnL au.+6 nr.Lbs rf

rbdtr r" (jcn) noo rh.,n{rins|)oinr oP.n rr p+urn€Ldns ashg

$J finnh rhe bdnnu (h! e 2it)s.{ 'lr {!ord pi<e ot fab.i. ro th.|in{hluht!'lsfaqngfilrlh.

Pip[A/rEldlginrcoddloLLid

6 {h Jrmd( or ,ht !ow.d .o'!({f (h) ii Frs e re) hf rh. lor

sl,on 5qn droqn( und.nrcRrhr

rgrnn 'ht .o.d,q of rr I o! tun

Frg9.2lMachfusewingnrea|p@rylretinola)dowa|dhda|in

s.a,n illdwa(s rc iEidc orded

b3 ro nake cod.d tubrng {D .tr' .

sdp b! a duPliah hDs'h (1)usnsa

br' rct qhdr agai,s' rr,! or,r ^L,hc

(r) Hdlli'3 d{ r,p of Lh! q4

141 ftnd srirch .ord.d lubru e,Lrrr !!ao asrhn rh. fourhron hr)

or rcd{ing{lom dr h:.k nretrlrlht|dtrldalo!i!ahoqrJnd|jxk

up rsah{ rh. hhn. nom rndsn$'h coded dbingsrn rpfropn

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s L r f ( i A c r : c o A D N G

lQ Quilting

I&ANifERxtNG DfstGNs

Qurrnnc Bsrcs

dc5i3n odo Llr hhn. L.ror rrr ropR bs,.d b rh. b3rins od riDi'rg, dr

b!d.0vho1tb''1)rt'dB/rdh3

VrirrLn$on rhr ighL 5d. or,h. rq) ilrr rh. rrbr! h6 b{!

d u n i g m t i d s U a a f a L n ! { f .

ln.hins duDhL€ orus]l ro lAr

,r,. lat r ,l .rDk ,4n 6urj

' l toughlqjovsla${lrsa|

!Lsa, k, Lht kT (hc imge Nll6. etRd) .( uia r ndrr{

dle ord uo rh,od or.lh. LDG

* u d b ! r l l . h e r n d . d o p d

rtu Lhi d$!nh6 rlt d6'sl

aurLlNc BAsrcs

jouri'g \6rlLlsu'i\

H^NDAL]ILTI\G

NrA.r u\r aurlrrNc . .. .. .:17

from rh. h pl,r oi rh. ror I

\mihl]is{l]nlLrouRh.dohicd. oin ould l.,.urour or

. rirns r t[0.nnishr.ds. Lons

u Nr naisltr I'is d' ar [ib!(

. ro qurLr lo"c.nric] l[d*rh

on. oi bo'h elAG dr oi5lil8D|. nu.[ 1o dr ruLlk! rh!\ y i d L h o | l h . m s | i i D g u n . / r(6Eo),'/! lr r!m), tr, (r.n).r" ( r. r.trD<!trroL Ll{ !F!

0 , d d l u r J b . ( n s d f r o m r h .

. rd <ho cuildrs. cui. llt ne

\rho, bPl J( rJL!. ur drDor h 'N ftiiq! G @nihuos

h L L l l l s . q u i l k L l a f t n o g h l h s

hold,h. hbrtr utrr.Dd r!T Lr{

nriighr rlaa 'hnr an r€ Dr.h.dh rk naigl'llatr' or L|I ltbri.i

rk pomo! or nDrirs in LirrNn

BAIII]\'c

L!!rb{tr,ninglid bld1,. sp(aL

hnened rirr rir.rrs ro rLr. hb.i.

hn!e or rr0rd-hdd r(drc aiion

Nts' h qulld $!ry 2" (tonJ r

rod $Eddins vhi(h n dls hnsdriLulLi!3 k bE 5Pi(d +" lr0.n)rD6 (Ltotr) qin \rri 'rrndvf.

ror iG PoruL ,! Lo\ roft rcsuhL

.sprdrlr irrf N6hhg. tcrdi,s

h ing l* Lro.h€rtlnu,f,trEd k{dra t !d a nrio! Pob-

vsha,iLjll Prohr!ms. riur rrr

E\ilirD'. Ind qnilF L,k.conon o(

r" (i a'i) nrdfns*p*i.onss i ] ( t i x ] soa l . r l r l t r y . i gn '

!l\ 'mnlrn !ir. !ilI hddDsn

,i,s' surh, n( iron\ onorr of

ba ron rlt mdd. sLi ro Ld,

rn rr h irs{rh rrr dN.n hbn6: (r) aurr asurLsqur,. orbrin!trrrlLo'B n 'hr D'$rrd

and ride ti sPr(d (]) NrcNre rrrqqhld lFplL O) Pull.tr l ir. nLL.

(+r trtrffu rii rniP{r \trh Lh!

6rd dr ruL r(ntrLi!! (t) uiL!

THE DoL'arE-BrNDrNGEDGE FrNrsH

N ! d ! r ( r ( k ) F i s r r r d l r i s .

e m r n r h d L r s i F g t i i t r F o f l J r q

] i f . l o l B r ] 1 u o | i * c \ \ o nr,s q rB or l].g! \\r) ri! qdrh

f d ! . , 1 r I f , f l r d r f d ' 1 , r ( N

r l ! 4 J j ! o t i r o r d r r i ! d r r

JorNrNG MoDUL RUNr s

croo* of. oLlhr rolroqtrg

.ONCL{LTD CONNTCTION5

ioPqulLhs /14 r.n) Iron rlr

(6nN)r ropquiLri,s r' (25!m)

t !1r IEI Pi! rhe lbins nrd

or 'he bp sdr nshr :id6 ogdlr

nls. r rlr.ds. (rll lrj{E) of'hE

,r.,!d und( hr,nilnidr rLr. roLil.d

or r|[ *.ond nodrl! {Fis rot

TAP'/] CONNE'IIONS

s,ht oodnL( ro br jorrll ftutri

und.narh. q,rh nshr sda rr.itrssv rl]c edgs of trlo rhdulcr

SIRIPPID CONNICTIONs

L\o {Q5 riqhL ii'r$ fro!8. rd

olhn$rs\id..,onsh ro hlL,n rh.

(Fis l0 t) rud quikDs u 'hc

\

.tFa la5 Sdppcdcanr@lar 13)Jdrthe hhs shp bTe lb)Fttth.sla.e

H,rro Qt trrtnc

(rcrn h rhiDs o, r,sr 106)

behhd|he|ap!|ipwrhfud'njlackdd

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. oui, bord.F dul lanc E

dr sou d.nsn (ru r0.3)

nghr nJe of rabn ld hrs

(rder ro rransi(nnc D$q6'o! Pisc ,0u\\nh hbn! srfrftrknus. mak hiol bur qsibt.lines drnbk $oush b sud$

nndrn s .i[($ aDd moifs dDr

e hir€ quiring do tul turruLft

. E.ho qu,rbc (lh) b Fig l0 6)

r/ (6'n'n) Ld /t' Ocn) apdn

. 51ipph quikn,c (k) rnFr8 10.6) surounds aisun

,ns.{ nng. nn'!inn.lrcs rn(d r l|[ Nor

. Da'gG nnched ns bsPinrior

r cut rh. bai.n!andlin'nesli+L'ly lar8{ dn $c bp. lL rh bps bia G 3. r{lurr bd (!dngsi-) N rh. banLn3 ald lhil84"(roco) rlEd rll riorn Foremth hPr. rtdule rh inftise

4To ] rd . rhbp .h rnDsaod l ]n ,

tr,o{ dr rr,. r,hrc G ddn (o,or urilrNhbk). oru$r rriEe,h.5Lc or the rini,g (Fig lct.ll

sPr€ad. s'iu.ft d( lmodh. rnd

drc .ds.s to rlr. {dr( d anxdl

hdh riold rh. h\$ bsahcr,rmPo0.il) qih mrsof lonstrdish' ph5 vhilc banhs rirl

. rhrcd .xtri rons lrng,hr dr

uDdso{,h ?nd rt:'{1G)

lr5!n),rd or d.s rhar

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li

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t ) L t

i i - i i -l - i - i - i -i i - i i -

--l- I i-.,t, _ , _ j j _ l

Fi1,10.9'Pa@|dbasfuahebpbafrinqandrni@bg9lh.r(2) squarcd atu (b) Ratuti@ andcarcentd. tnB (e) Pddns theedg6t'|aldaqdrdbelinglheefulinircb|he3eafralldwa@

. Pin rill bros or ltltel.PlaLtd nal erd) piB, n2.00,0 ,d i1 shna lomrndo f

spa(d + lr0.r) lpnt U*r sEpcGun spoon 'o hdp in

oubid. cds6 sid, ncdlc aDd

Roll lr*. qdl's a ro{sdlbsr

Lh. tull 6 .on'huc b6rhg rrrhr quLllingdaign G ,lMdlnark.d on rhc b! uy b bsr

t. Follo! 'nc [n6 oI rbr qtr'lnng

lhud insEd imo a 3hon,

bd$ren $w rhiough all rh€ l,r.

{n.hs ,nro dr radd.d rabnc bnE.nbc rhc dsisn ino tne 5u.h.e (Fjgs roir. 10rz,,nd

N'l*;lg;;;a#

as. 10.11. (a) ra stad qukns, mke

(6m) bsth ot qukne r@d

11.3"r) ftan tu Me $ete sl:ilt.r ng | l bq inddhenede lhnuqk

pant. (b)-rus M the hread ta pdpthekaa|lhbUahfu|qbbdqen

-4,-.c)@4n(e) ar trehatite ta tund knob utititu h@d 36" (e1 5.n) tae. ke

|iq6eheahe|hafiloquil|in

while quiling. plaa th( btLldbdhardns,rin4 D a Imn. d

*nhor hns srddug lurd

F a | a D F u F n i n g s l f u e d q b n qG) rhe hid u@t d the szw)re

'ac's|heneefulh|aughlhe|apbLtng4ni@whchhphchedbwafu

sudaa (b. d) thg din at be

(n sdins aahet .tuch viut a pel

h-/rwaEar4@rb)

i. adhhs rEE6 armd b

rarse sitd quihirs pnjd

bpa[hMhD8 F rqdr--ro.qn' r losiion trul Lhe qal'ins i5 rbGhcd (Iig L0l{)

dsigr bdbr. bahg rM !d,hs hh the {€n. rtrd drx

do* bsftrs Enr r&.s,!'

in dhndss troo r0,1l5nn)

><--@Fe@4q&

/tr-F-"-,( ( . . )

F i q 1 a 1 3 h s { U @ q u n 4 r d a 9

at a qufti@ rne: (a) Knat tha th.eadth" (1.3m) tm tb tuna6. tb)

lfuneefu|hrcugh|hebatipand

8:bnngradhahE'lenglha||a!,(c) rus he knd inb he tuttu| culthe thead fiere t entu6 td) ro

M|ha|hybackgibnsbb|hefu*

|h.a@h|hebathq'b|ingnoha||.

enped inta a 2s173 hn) haap. funqe |aaha f .b leh@en

r6op quilrhs is poirble:rd

nvdy rM phhd rhe d3$. rf

wnh danPhs Prcr oDeside

bp qr'm d'c bpaahMd,

kks. ren'ouhr ropAa'6s/.lirins ton ft lDop b.rw..i

L.p quil'ins lecds tu ]xpl

ard one hrnd undcmslh, tr*

!rdk. Llhic[ G Mnrtrvd.dry 'he orherh3nd. Lep quik

md pd rr bp4xnhsnhiis

rrr do,rr ldvding a koce. ald

h,r beEn diidcd i,ao enill

runovc r1l birns d,dd LxlcpLrhe drerd insidc rh. *Rn

nush wirh tht in.d up r4. ofthe bP A$€obh quilrd modults rdSdh& lehs oDe or Lhencrhods dacibed h !oiri!8

covr rhe edg$ ol? ff nishtd

mdrtu {wn. doubLd bhd,dg(reb ro '1 hc Doubkd Bindingfdee..in!h- on Posc 207). o.

L! b{k unril Pradice p.rle6 $c

lic lih unbrmpd nkh6.

pu.k.ry txrufl I'r dGLirgunhd

uid 6 rhc only quiklnsnir.hbdryh\.|sftncd+ilttngIurc.

s ufd ro quiLt ,hc nejonry of a

comror Nhen lurriry ihe rhard i5

surf,cei roo much rhrad rision5hdaers ,ne quirtcd fabnc. s.oc

sdFP[ry, i5 heihblc rtz(n|hLh.d3i.6imPonad,add3'{.-rynee'Rn. lor sl.nk,g. wh.ndting th. hbiics rnd b{uu.

Dsisls wirh shor..los lirs

quilre6 ro ntsonat Analr:t lhc

n'ne quhng p,rh Ifrhelhc hehs

out, *oor thc ntcdl. $rcugh rhcutlhs ro r n*rbyliiErexhabl.

NrYdquirr lons. rnishr tinsmrh leqrhy the& 'hnr couldsn,p undd hrurc srdn nirh Ishdd ipan of $e linun,l dH vrn

r rnc n.aqr o,lu quil,iie nqa

l(les b apr€d in r|t qnhing {i.hsnonqble k!o6 and riLs ol rhud.

NorE5 & VARradoNsNodc quilrss oftcn tcd duNJ,

or dE h3n,l abor. *trh rh. handbclov lhm rraft or hoop,tu unsr l'rL pm'rr ooroarlr rherdtrry, bur r uk r dedrcrred qTen€na tu rhicv. ln. ftx ladr

{1.5.n), .oudry onb rhe nirh6

,l hand quilrirs Thi!. soft bnnngrRyd.d bdNrcn rlrn, sort fabn6. :

and esr ro. rhr nrtdk ro slip,hDush, L rh€ n(ssry brsc tor

p,rr or the :6rhdc. Unifomftysnd pi.bnar 5uibbilitr arc rh.

hand qtrilrns rpprc.ch* the de!o,

sk r,m.rul {dr.i'8 tooLs tiktnnninsjrft.h.d qultus bu' lneD€edlc dioD n drrdm fd pnrcii.d lt sh. quitleE rt! anambrddrss aldriry: wnh thebP,Ening,rh''u[.lhfudhdop. rle hand abovt pushc rhrn*dr. {higbr dos! rhrcugh rhc

nrdle our ard. mond fownl by id.h rc ftqE the nedr€ iDb $crining, pushing tr shighr uP lor $ehrDd rbove ro rcd.v.. .nd so o!

Qu'hry an lE blftd b i p.honor $e 1op labnc n'c bauiis du' prrs&€ {6 shdrld b. d,in and/or pulltddd slrddca aound L\e <kd bd\indle od eBduJ\ odr.Nc. drlinE $hse r lbps nRr shs s r ndge

$ilttd qh linhs. or lh. 'hc .ndbp,r brne 6 Pdbus\ d&nh.d

od5. $r drlq€dn n appli.d d 'h!b.gd]i'EnlhoJundE@do|'lt

trph b dd id idrrhbr. ro wndr-

mod'drsi.d Prej!!ts shtr wd a

o) \skb$s dss. snoorh 6c b.*ha up. over rhe bdrlrl8 A'u!l' d'rnr bsEdr{ {i,n enouglr dn.ad dd!L) rd tsdis ro prrm ft badnslsn nnDling anl sdchbs Junn8tudn& (2) \\i'h 'he edgc .lLsn.d.l'r'hcbPtid'i6ielasdt|d]r€lhclhg'orhtLi]iruAdi|gyalhhc$v rouDd dr €d*s, hruC e. .orrcrfr'hNod'l[td,gdulsdtha hrtan op.nins larg sough itruningoDomshighnd€sd}5dld'ht lhio3ldlis si,lc or 'n! oplnEon Ih. *i,nlint pR$ knEhrsnrLlownes orm. dr ill coruE dago

lePinif$![Etbdshg{s9f...piE€n 6) crry fic quilrilg de'EDh tu lrigc ot rh. Ltdnr nEtuL 'ht*an aLlorunct and 0 l c qu'hD.rblneb d'ca tdg.{, rnn rhc b!''ins ftu'n rlrc sum rllo'ana befot,un$g (ltele' ro Fis r0 rz roi

F(Jld h4d 4!i'iu. pncduE

quilEd hsdhr w'$or . lilq oth4dns in b{N{n .a i Es'Lr rh.{rklr rl'.fdt $c runftsjdrh€d

Ln r grdlikc i,anner dEhlhrd nnd'

rer rrng s N.nrd \nh tai FqrhEl hn horhs. dh{ $c curYrsrdy dnlk klad,s rbl. torsilrrkE of idt0l lil.s of dinDq b6!nng ( l) l,Epare the ror. bdlh3.rnd Lbins rith efErr.pin bsd's(2) \M1h Lhc q idrh dl 'l't 'dp{r:!d l g 4 d h g s p u d N l m , F i e q { L

!* r tnplat srl hoL6rospd LhE

(rt!m) ap'r i5 a rdddr rlutr.c lorqirs o) Fd! tl? !n h6 {'d d5.ddd prlc .okn, .mbrcidcq flos,

dk D.rptndtuhr h fte su|Ja. Fttk!$! 5lirdr6 r {@r ,/ (6@) ,ft,

,)ms uil d $t brsiinrns ($nL ]inor ibbor hc f(dh. nEke a nnslenich) irc sd qm bc rd. qr," (t r.n) or moR hon rht knor.rtul ldl lm* b ganish JE bp, oi L\eends €n be dsl h bolk h Nhih !a*L\ebPnirlbcdhPllr]}ihptrlkd

'nr. riiiig bidirq ts an N.o'npLiotd cds. fnch arrropn'E ro! a d€d'q1il( (r)rnE rbftls nun' *i lrh. rdgc ol fit top Tun th.exrstnEoq'Ic.dgcb'n.fon(Fndenly for bindins (2) Pcpart 'ht

FQ,1a16'|apbanirgrnircpr@ea

O) tull Lhc s{lopc nsh' idr dul

snddLhd Ldp 'o 'h{ lLi'nei6r'itrg. or

w.",.&(.)

Fd 1e17l4ry@@pheb & 4Mjbq'd.d'futt-h@ly@tu (d)tri@ he d& wtut @ 1sqEe M le) Ptdite ied at a ti

lotu6 Md, a dbsonrl ft,ld i 'h!

l[ft dd h, : sBo{lLqrr{ dEranft t nr ih fold Rr ii,Ld uLl' nLgcsroflnns md ngh' sds la.ing. 0d

G)Pi,rhrhN,gh hs k, 'h ratrl\\l$ ft s@n 1llol&. umrd uid.rLds5trtrh b mdft dm3r, ir rrr.rs ,o *(m d. hindbs (Fis L0 tB)

Fa 1013. la) L)nirs bhd@ pt€-

diaqarat, tatded eatnet lb) oodMybsecurenj|eh:s|opi|.En|s|lcdhqa|aehednJbziqzag

I ' T \ D Q ] L T \

, . ' i , , " . . r , " , , ! " , r ' I , r ! ! r j r ; r ) i F l

{

l

Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhesude qJtuitq ld, e) Free mtd qunihsFiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn

edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtry eufrire het ateha saead b dbp {d e t) 4nded and deeplt.wed

MAcHINEQUILTING

PRocTDURES

tnh0c. 'lt p?ddtd ndnc.shrn inr.ibed dth nircr,i,gb),

nd Jnd nop r rlr dgc, ardrins,hiid$lnhc o, Iil l wnh r,nrrnuD drDrroal noPs nrd

ffchirc.quirrd suni'1c. bu il

nabilted (rofer ro H irs onprg. 206 ) Macbinequiilirsdc{gB.r di .d h,o bad{-s, oun.l (fis. l0 l el. bor fG+ 10.20), and tiluGrilc(Fis r0 zr). rod subdivid.d

2. Cur hbri! hsiarorrh. rop,,ddDF an a|lo\?nc. for s| tr!

ldp ur'rr a hbdc.s{e orrLing1001'trd . r,idrbd lisibr.rin!

Ponb6 or tl[ dc4n rlnr rirtlsund $d cperd. r imlF.

&s$n'D{k'|g:f ' fbNh3rnd m6.du,!rr b.r{e nr.hi|sniy b. ipPmPnie rnPlorl*dnrhft quil,nunquG rLtrrc

o, no m rnu (Rdir rD.r Brtrq D.silo, on Pisr r0r )

t brg ks xdut' bel.lq {hs

1" Oo!m) rars Ju JouDd f0

a sPEad rhf linDsour. ngh,

{ihllhbl!Lxr3(obqhbsuPPon ?llolnor olrlr hbn(squn€nof i . luJ j (wo ' l '

4'.i h'l!r, fr ir ,t rh.J,,r.n4 i ' n [ l l t ! ' d ( l ' b J t p l i g

buldos raPn hbdn]8 dirrs.

Avoid bdting qhere quildnglin* ft rurked o! dud.dII rh! hhl€ bp c sn,ll.r ln,trft. m,r. rhinenEiing'oP.b3ft in *dion1 Epahgrhe nrekhhg,nd < dns

plam.d ror th€ toF Relnk 'htnachheqn.hinsn lhod b lh.

elly movins rhe roFTbdring/rin

norcment of rhe roP4driientiin8 und- the ddtus needra. o!.all, b:.kbund. and bor

d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6.

sngl6 :E rhe mon suihblr for

(r) ooolr a pBq root dB'

$. quildng linq $i E6.suE dis0ne, Lr str.h sp,tq G E{rud4 .nd L\d

ticuh.lr whn ,ruihhg lii6aEloBb rre 10 13)

pa,lded surlce 3,1,n&

vithiD dE brdns Eightb t2 sraighr nirch$ p{

6l'E 6 .llning. arhchrlc .dsa ol rh. lining 'o rh.rour sidcbrF ot rhc fnnqrd nrekh bdwe! sideb$

b cenrer rhc b ins ov{ rhe lin

up. ovs rhe b:fting Thftadbsrt Ein8 a lons or cured

Fiq 1021. D$isre in he mtin qtjiins: (a) Flqmttue mtits tu srbt

laa!.sEl]En@|lo|gMngla'|lbhbedesiy. (b) t@!i,ed nends ,tuhks tot fltar k) Echa.qlmed spiatallheadsha@'|hiry|a|ise|lman|lerd|k:hhg|i119|'

I6ren fte lalcE rog.'hd wth$idr piB d 4" (lo.nl inr.r

Fiqla26Pdnglheldpbatnql'

rr, aqtrtr! r' itq dnL<r

( r) Lu\r 'hc tNd doas o, .n.

.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh

keaps|heb']katlhelqhatnqln'

Mxh 2nd6 ad 10 th,a teh, B )n

| a q D s | a d b v e | a @ j n a l a r a w 2

b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s

parens ta) stth h6 acrcsthe centet r 61 tb) srbh abel

crPotrrn dr o/ofurt

a l r l r NC , e

Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng'handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg

ftps clt tnn tutuat otores tutp ti

bn$bs $. norftN oIrhe lalnic ro a gn lMl nop.

ff l , i i lolthtdasi!! l ih

trnu'ng 'o iLdlr clipil

nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/

(l)su( by holdjng on 'o rl'.end of rhemedle rhR:d

rhrcueh thr rop/bartr'p/

rod( ft rh,lad bynirch.

l.nCrh b Lh! de!(d !a

( 2 ) r d l n J a l h . o r q d L l l n g

xnhrr rh. hbn.. fi"dtrdr!dcoo* r]t nrd, lcrsrl,

To nimge l,+e. bullg: nr!hi!.quil'i 'upruj.ls r|[liincrspac ,!,ibbl€ bd\t€n dr n(

,o ,r lrr, or rhe nehinewirhtxtnsions. prledbly lcEl

Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8hrs suppon. i6 Lleish, ndllhhdslhr ProBrc\Yc mdrr

b. k.kas ht qls i,rtinhs

ro rhr nghr oirh.qnrrring liNrscun drc roll $rh 'mDr hnr.d! dirs or er{r ph5 .dld

,n3.hnmd besEn rhe rcll

fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bllt hg4hmgb 'h tp r :CNhe ]eq u L ' h g G b h . g n A l i h e

(ts1g.10 nq). R! pkkrg. s

drhbn.undc tun*dk

lins qirh niidrs rhxr tr.

al'{in! rhe nnish o$ird

,r,! fins.B, o ir the f'bri!

Fs 14.4 @ La@ bptbatun n.i@rcle|lan|lchpe|lw|hbillclectix to ho nqht and dded 10 be

qDtuhs @) raatbadinsttinids aeatdi@rod€dhba@egebhabh

v--a

nnn . io rnnmg/LhgD

FimoRrb/6rdng4h

rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr

{ndK; G) Lft dr rtrrr$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL|] 'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'

,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $vLh!b[i 'B/l i!4nnlq)b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr

bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil,

nldhs fu n o\rinc ro rht

rx/,intd n lornr's !odtrl.r

la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdnehta two s@.ians and jojn l@thsfahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) culhe barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and

J a } d J o g l ' n g ] h Q d n a l ! l L a '

ad. ro Th. Doubl! Btr'dtr'g[ d 8 t F n i s h o n F s r 2 0 7 ) o r

NorES & VARrArroNs

aurc tf bl'llr DsnrDs rqxrud

r d L s $ f l l . [ n g l ' o L . p i r t d

i,g/LiDns , {tNmds a f,!s&

n'ddrl! Ll" (:10 5on) qurr. ] g l h r D . l h l n o v . f ] o n < l g i

nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri

m d h € i r e | 4 I | o n g l l l t d o l -

d $ i o $ l u { , ( F L 3 x r : r r ) , oPr!.n, r]I nrdrirg ar.r nnnk

Hitr,F-,Iti::LrI

ffi')

r4djui ro a mw 'is- sfr o' 'hr

,d l!\s ,lE Pi€itr bn .B isr

h o r n d { { s . d d o t 0 i * r o . I i

Ns m,l \ ci+r. n bnh mDrlh

diffqtDr r,on rh,dilhrdrbr

1,s! e. N, dr,r rdhods nr

(l) sr{ b:rlr uJ ddr nrnrosopi.nnch.s rDL,n" irnnl bcfoc ifL-irrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtrr.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr

rnaiL.d nr bs( urd {ndrins 4

atril' \rnritrr\rrutrlL L\plitu

rr.c. nr.hi,s lonnlonia t lNs

,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s. Ir,uL dr

kd{ b .t 10 r 6J $lts rin. n rrr

lrtr sAnms (riis t0r2l NtD

p4? 4

ffin[-1l-r-- - ir= - - -f - - \ / . I

l l K iM]Fs 14.2 la) A'bbT t6 and

lb) tab ennedac baied b the rchlafua|anadDbb|.pbe|e3egrnqlo|helrirghanhgf\ned'ightsida

rcad A) b re ot (d) srq baehel

rRkoth]ngol|)' 'heliis/,litrg\th $c hcrtuB5ntrh$ (FiB r0'')

roPs. L i"g and lini,s fo, tb: {c

*L 'o8dht.l.xvhg 'h. 'op ?dgr

Iahi n& N' Mrhitu qut' sr{

nuld) foundadon. dosing tLe ol.niles in rh€ Pocss (.ig ro.r4)

d ipponmr .f {rm; rnd folil

rh. h h/hms n o€ or3n'6n

i1u B.,noddft.diqr\r 0) Prln rd6rsn for nnps of t?5r.. (l) For

$! bsqh€. (r) (ut nnlrs ofrhe

.llo*anft s. (1) sbnins (nrallrorar rh.l.ft cdsc,lar,h! lldnnp.kinmld bsi:c. riqltr 3id! lp dtr

Fig 1a3 la) cpmwkdsisft

ld) tackirstua hd.nod 6los9tball.) Assenbted nn|nodut$ ||ith

Es. 144 la) DxQr: td tabbed ea\ttuetare. (b) sewhs and quirins a

hbs b 8ilhs (c) tunBJ inside $hk hand stithks (d) arctNad uhdq ldp.srbhrns, le) eLpht hb searc, at o eov,4ed Mh zisae st:bnirc.

(1) Plac 6r nnn :r ovcr rlr $!

*!rh. tour tabi n nrips a li-'i3 Lo3crh' (r) oP(n.P.t$ aod

rlt.xarrioD ol ft nnrs rhd

qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic'

stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h

,b aadi')dd ddso4at t @ rri\ed' " F p ) r 1 n 4 b a a b 4 . a - " ,

rop ol 1i,. baft,3 Pri( Lhl s(ond

\{ith4j t|[ !d3s b be fa'nedhgdhtinid'lhbLl8hJll laFr(5) op€n r& {.ond sup rndhgh'rr D6i 'ht ram. (6) conhu.

aanunil'h.rrahe/hhlsdr

(Fi3 l0 ri) (7) td 'lE 'nodulcs

trdhodi d$dh.d il .lornins

rinrh rh. .dss w{r ddubtd bihg Gcfu| Lo"Th. Donbr. &ndDs

buirr.ftd! fbu miio,- {nr+nrips for rlre tur nnFolb ing

bdorslr.hrg (L) trlgD bl b6L-h3 (he tid olft rhre.rarsrd

dgrr (1) $ rsh' sidsLlins.

liBl l'nins nnP setr rhe md.Lrnrs€dssola tuur rablc sdp5 andrhc bdrins losc'hd (:r) op.tr and

,' ,''i:,';;"':

ttt\

vvvv \^4..a.1A.,r

:'/1//.aa/

ll Stuffing

sr!.fED arrrrJN.

SIL"ID APPLIIU!

STUFFING BASICS

SrurFrNG

ru.nd lolDLt iri5os rlnalkd

r.) NrNd k, rrlldo'r, Giss

ins qunEd or arPliqucd 5hrPs

ro suide lulls' oI nultds

trp of . n.rds bol lonB looush 'o

s, $diw r ih uodld qrruE. rblurrd lunug iedk or sk$..d"jn€htrcdFP(di|oht!

p$ln|gnu]]ingagdnnlh.{ann]

llnruglDur Modd LrisL{dtI IonsGlsrtd arulLqu.. oll5. sisqLa.puk wl sll.s) Mh |n'sc prssurc on rnc ouGid. r \dl 6 stu{t-

$ilrd tr rrPltFel shaP$ q hrlf.

lor .onsnor numng nFnhu$n

.nousr ror rr d.rtion F suFlYc

rioD hbi. $nh lnnd $Dg (Fig rL r)

stuiirs la) Datn)ne lhe edees

4. lb) overcan and te) hehrabne

ne b md. ldjr<ni nunbs ino

STUFFED

PRocrDURr5

piat fo .n|h?s,\ \trh {ufiloq

or hl,ff rlu' h6 h(n ar b 5i{GEftrb hnndhngDcisn''0' l]g! l0t) B& lrr DirLadroD hhn. ro hnns hb ,doaql

stifetJ qdtltns. tuiqts atie

shges: lo eadet. (e) Gndded

tor rlr! d$irn ir-i.\ rh!

Nr.rdlN autlls on

n(Llr,,hf hLrr L! i boor o

n,p.:. {Etf rtL! j thnlhL

dBao irLg LL t HrnLnr rhr

olru'irr5Jlri iktuL

NoIIs €r V-aRrATroNs

rdd , r o,rr linil]g and finm tr b

nuficd (.is LL+) Ifir!Pndid

( ( . 1Ln tLg l r 5 ) L ' r l r f s r

rusrrirs b trJro Lh \ s] ! tf'hr h4 brhDlr rhnr q(lrrdvdk r $duLnkrR' iLln fgsh,inkisr rrd'ni$ \,Lh

nn.hhg. bdbr rhr m.lnDg tr

tor nuffiq ((h) i,.ig L!5)

Ards$ i,nl op.nns' { q(

sputr ntrrt a.tlicr"s tr,l,ll

ler b fth o,hs iNid! rh. !

mddithelirhA'hldtrgl 'hols

rrnrids in ,hl {ebn! ru'h r !*Jlr thr\ hlq!) rrir 11'!

n,Nrrn,1r, (o n.,3 rr i)

suidd rdhod ol yi,n nqroo

rc rr mrkdn?prao iLJIrd

Fis 11 .5 ro lun srbhins-autinett sh@es undebcbbtl: la) stuh hmshapeni@ brced be@n thteab h the @ve d the dns (b) PaDse to dDflbetuen the tay$ whte sli.hiret LnEh slr.hlre ztd 3tuhne 14 Pad wth

R.xEEd d'rr.d {uirrhs n N.

rtu mng ldr ol 'h. lining AI'{

of fabr! sluL qb6rins basc rlrrDp ovd Lh! ldns rhe rp Iabn!nc& ro ridgc ovd 'h .dss dI rlr

oul ln]ing l lul fdlldw\ l|thc 'dp

orrr rhe ourrins hu ,Lso rhc .oloF

quihns n.alkd sh.do* quihingrisuis{i rbqtuund J

bkkgFuod $mponeds benefiinon rdrrt&r !r,lJ.d q kiis.ab6.

Fb 11.7 (a) Dsisn tat byeted s6ed qdtirs M atas hnbeted hadnnehstud lb) crd6 ir tayat rl

FI!11.6,Layfusfufldquihre

qnurd dnead ta) th3 h€a,1heekand the bseraat at the @Mk lb)The'qigglesljn|ave|bpheCide

(r) To prcpatu'hr onsinn d$icr.numbcr 'h hregrcund dupc

Numb{1h€ niddk srcund shrP$

{ill app* ld bt b.hhd rh. fdE.

frq b. sFln irb No L.vds, or

brkground slxDs *r ' Ahftnuffls. thse 5h!p6NilL,pptar ro

rh. design {1) Trxr rhe da,s! on'n. nsh,sidc oIlh. bp {:r) Pin'n lnins.d ll't{ Lh,n:ll rhr:tshrFs und.n.arh lhe d€5iBn wi,h

,h. ,r 3haP$ s1ufi rhrough dts rnrlr lhhg d {hmtrgh op{h8' lefibdo( finishnu ac du in nn.hi'g rrim (he e\ces rinint around

rh. dup.s. ({l cur rnd ptu amftcrPi.(oflinjns larss th?n dr *l

*2 shrp$ whd $rchhg ri od

5hnP{, tur b the ber( 3nd conriD.

utuil rh. ourLim h notrrresun$.whm nuffhs .xrnd dr nrftmg

bilrsmund le!€k EN rlr rufiiru

sFu shipG ldr rh lnr,g{ound rhe:r shrP.s (i) Rtp*r

)

l:,!

I

;ia

(

;

-11,*

;"i

l !

5 T U F F E D Q U L T N G

*

STUFFEDAPPLIQUE

PRocrDL,Rrs

sud t . f o r .u rou6 ( r r s l L 8 )s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc

orroundaiof rilir. L|t( hrs

nutths. nnnLi?. rhc lortrdr,on

aPrriqu iL,ric rnd !r oul

illona!( nouDd rrrc trx.d

, nr.rr.n b\ trudrir,.uron ,ht f.t!d drrin$. adding

dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e

Ran:llonifc ro rr [{[ rll l)

anoMnes sn@th\': ta) cip .ar.ave euNa and tb) ndtch cn@'.u!A.|h|eNa]sstwingshda|r\etoutine lc) crp ireide anstesbtherab tne ld) r2pettnn ta the

dr bklebhd 4Prqw rFi bul

app\'I. Ir.3ld'nd rrf liqu.

or rrrbrlqiN r {rriqurvLLh

Fis 1110 l', b,.) Mott appld h

aFplntd rows the bas€ edse or a

iplliqt i, flaa orDn hon

rpprLqtri! !!u! (Fnrr !r)

Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh

, i ? 9 ,p"Nn7z-q

, '

ta) sthBuchhs 'n dpptqa ltwdnas

4 Ez s?rF

#%

*ry*1

a s1F

s%

(b)bddde chirs an appriqui ph b4delak6|inysrbh6h|au7hhe|ald'alEmlkgdlh|inys6esl+ough|he|aundalbnhfue'lafu|snchirglaaksjikrunni@slbhs'

wllnlwlrl

, 1

srbhina an aprrbu6: ta) fun car

\|heh tains a canet at b) anircitu anste. ld) Band suitu the nee

iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa

l€) swivd ||h tu needte n thetundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh

4 sruft rrictrpprnL,Lc iftl] (i.fdk]'sllling. otr pag. ],]9):. r nk rup l L r r r r . h g0 r t r f

ns,rrf roq,orDd iPP,qn.

Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)

fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|

,s 11 12 Optiare tq mhtu 4ptique (a) satkehb'a)dery tooL lb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c)

xpplLqut 'hrcush asliL lur tnro

appriqu. (b) i 'r ILg ll lt.HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d

NorEs & VARI rloNsshaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.*

d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh'

lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd' l c $ m r d v 0 8 1 6 g i h m t n u .$maLtollRncptrs tu sEi.$tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa$'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL

t rzd d!{ n,!ir ,ryLqr. trr.simple. prcrcnbl) rnLsh'.+ed5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!.s$yq and cDr4. il l nound whri

is\ \rh {nishr nt.hi,s. lollo{ing o!,li!cs facd oD toP. B.tore

hrlhhc \eah ard dry rhc.n.nlohdruo!tmlouEgcflr|nu

fc.t)cd edse ipl)LrN. bu rrsr rLE5trhrn ,ardrd rPptiqu.: !|Gltr

hrnL i$ mn ,o ,ht rold qi r

'llou ancs. rr.?.rp,pfi p, rpoorior ,*u6 run€d .ds6 dr .fr

ou,on r lDr He4 hond ihc

ippliqu! tubnc cur ot. dins r*an xlowirc nound rtr cdgc oI

rh. ldsr ofrhe p:pd. ruh rhr 560,Lo\?nc. tu ,he hekaDd presIim\, For apphqutr b be!trffrd

ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhdondud Juplisrrs ,h orisnul

andpoinl lor po,rti whN all m!.dodrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads

ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d!dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and !l,cnt|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly

J n d k { L ' d r c l a i n s l s d i g ndhEsnFs I|,n ?rf lique is too

haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgtQpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide

r5prcbn l rhtftlor..dyd!,rLd oPPri4n. G $E.nu' ofrtr

rr !!denr ssd 0nlRq? rh. prkrn

Ghn) a a(Dnd, cveD l.$ itrh.

nftish'sEh .ds$. .ur tr ,nu.h ol

posiblc whdr ic{rs rd ftc uncnl,rgd oudrne on r|t foundruor

shouLd b. nioorh .nd \ trhod i(

Fq trKrcd 4d atlJ.l apptiqk.

t u r o l f t o r h d D g d r d e d , 4 :

Fie 1115. ta) sturins app@ledpelab|h|a!ghopdjhgsbbedasedwhen the ced* ctcte is 4diquddlb) stuttins liB cabt dtde hto,$h

sidcl, rhc fdutrdNrcn and fin

aboY. rlr hbn! rnd all$! roqn and dry b.lon osins Linca !trn!d-aPPriqui dsign dN

Fq.1116 D$b'a tDt darked and

Ll( '!LLll$L rppl'qui. (lJ nncLr tLre

trmlL:ld {{tqu. Gr nLtrli (rr

rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr

,ld.d d nrttirl D nsnfdr

nL,r.,rdpfriqn sFu tro non r!

l{.}

(r, L(r 'hr.tr'rt d {.r ri

Dg iri Pl&! 'h! liN'3 0\o 'rr

L.is Lr L3l hn' i,shr 'dr 0r

|h '+rt! 0rr!L nult ishtL\

looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli rll

-w-

9ptite 'Dctuth ht-4Dd l'Pdth

x]4fu|pl@gewrh96fuefm4 e, e r€@5 rufi4 @i@E5s beb@pBMd d u''_'fed e4Md e6ftiB

S T U F F E D A P P L I Q T J i

!+&i!n oppr@d h6 dridtdhP bIft od sb dMg ,' hlde ne i{Mr.€tah efawddie@tuttu4i k a. ft e5d tu stuFr dNrhn

xLe rqrej.d 'tul e st\teJss tu Je ,€,! !'4 4 & &rel@&bi9digseiopeMed.u!,6 h tMd@ nP tsmad $@s dirdpp* b epe ft sd@dd tutd

ELEvATEDAPPLIQUE

GATHER.ELEVATED APPLIAUi

rb q/ salhe is ih nlfr nto ert-

GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.

PnocEDr,Rrs

ho3hL!otr rt+,r simPl,i 'hc

brd.{ior (F,3 l l 1Lr) .d{,s' ! lTy!fLhr dsgD r. roLik Ll,. dtn{6 ll[r mL b. d.

a ' r t l, / a t / ' \

L / \ ! I I

L i -

F i g l l 1 9 A r a r g e n n s a | s t e a n

'h dri;nl d.\ on cndntr,!

ongndnue ! rd , !Pq lB (L l r

EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22)

de|a|ed2pp]lqt.rheeancav€ed7e

r Lhc r rc (F , ! | l r )

\ .;.; i;.;; l;-<- -,,---<

I Gwe,

Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|

oltr.ll i r b! 'h€ dficrcDc

/ / --\

L-l t\ -ll,/

onc ri& q R adi!(d 5id$

i.ls.G),q [! l lo rLJ k] Lt'!

,Lr. sidd! LobLlLsdlJb\ i

ds 11 26 la) Ap|iqte b 6e dev2.

tb) Apptiqu,; s6hed and sp@d

\|th a Ine that 4ha8 he atbi t

rl\ !d(n h b! dod!J. r

Fie. | 21. ta) ladtpi to be ekvabd

(b) Apprqle sr'shed atu sped b

,df(\) b h{ d.\d.d 6 rh.

il nnD) tLon' Ll'! uppDtr!

e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc

llu onsmlshall nr rlt p sib be nrcd on nr toundrLotr

oD 'hc tl{rnl snh orrh. sus(

ofrouDdrior hb'ir Llrtrlr blor

rf lf iw|qu! onllDG drro r

rtu!. aPpliqu. ind gN{r qr

hrrn! (oPhonar: trr(,rr n?rr,n- r!r[) cr otr on ,h€

srE rh! d.\rid ?tl)Lrqu6 r

Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb

skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side alhe tian4e la mabh the stevatededgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo

.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils

(F i s I r . i nd i r so , . r -b

Fb 11.30. ro qprqu-t a tund eah

nrlhbs Lh..nds bs(ho

athwe c1Dped b anaw sewhs taheeqesdacjrc|jarapDliau-6rhe

al|hebase]ircedqeo|llregBfub

boopoL lhft lalgt enoush ro

,xrd aPPritlu6 rhrcus[ dic.ur 'mo rlr. found{ion t€ld ro

. nckhardPh rl[ g.s df rh.louftl.ridtr Lo a Pzdded $dic.

rhE raM.r:llor b .dol ,nd dry

apphqut d$is!. bding dr

NorEs & VARrAfloNs'rht chora bdwee! srhcd

,rtur oldsisnqrret rtna, Dtru.m(d hy nhnh q,Pe or rL.vrliotrruuld bc rh mon ippmprile fo,th. dcLsn Two othti hdoc ro

befrB) a smtl slhpc rnd fte

cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionrin the nu[.d rtrip.. ]od srhenng

Frs 11@ F) PabhM* &siE1||ik

Bttan lb) ftianeb wk Me ede

ca'hFleL€bd awliqu6 ofi rdnul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d.urion prd.dir\ if $e ruffins tshoundd in rhe corti An iPpriqli8arh.ftd all areund Ni nuf nno rmundrJ rom ro LeeP fie middlc asnn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls

dbg rh. cdss rhn d4ors s h

aknough nuftlns nrdihs thr ptr.rdD8 soh.r'hi ro subdu. lhcpu.kctug, fprart haod sarh.nnslnh bobbin $ftid sRrhdhs:MR.hine 5d.h or'{ rh. ouddc otrrhc rpphqu.. laftcr ford on rhesdhenng sdrhs. .nd l@d qv to

ro pr{ry. rhe bowd.finrronoli su$fld$?bd ron. push r!$r.d dga aM rorncG up rnddu {nh rumns Dn.h rh.m dk!sn ftn8. Md flnrm and snDo r rn.ioP d sida \!nh dqside P('surFoi lill up R nd oPPed roo$nh a shdt of bnriu ind fi nEhNrlt $uf ie liilernE(h. U* rh.roundnion sh.Pe ,o lur eroush

ol rh. d.v{ido r,ck rht hyrsroserh* roo$ly wnh oedl€,nd

.ppl'qli 10 'he lounddion snh lh.baning ni.k Eide ro Lantsh sh.!b r][ sunic fibrt. Pu5h nulfinsbtn.a$ l]t hRidns rhfttrsh a sln

cusd .onePb af mon dilficuh ro md.Ednd &rn rheois lbr

n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtrd LorL c'rdr o !don(L $irh x

'he cdg. oIa shpc 'hr mdchsrhc ba*line Mn\ nN.h 'he Elorrd lin!-urle$ rhc.d$ ii tutiln.

,ndsfd lersrl oL r]]. rt.vftdLi'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm'{il l elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr.olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh PE.

lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp

Fm snran.lor rclicL rppliquis dr.ppliqu6 h d 16l onenn deurd cdg..!trttung rhroush i!opmins in rh. m.hrs rlur rRlhG 'hclPpliqu. $ rhe loundadon ts

.!cn\ ard conrol dr shsping oI

founddion. A ilsisn $ih n,n)dn.-.red aPPriqu6 b(oms loph..ry nd i.ds a nurdrr subnanta| roundRridn Id! a bs€. such 6niII. he&l- hbriq, ba,lng prJdqr

concel of sdhctd or gBdLlYlIo@s b ri...n pd.hwoih r.sisnssd.d.d .l.mcds of ' d$ig! I ed.v:rd {rh erlh$ls or su$ec.nd'h och €ldnion b*ril ld a lLn

rosdhs in Lh{ unDl, dshr.sidcefac s fdhior (Fie rr 12) ^ftstnmb\ rhe dmtd ckn.trb m$urftd tnDu3h dns.ur No drr

Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b

r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs

onc rlnd rh. lbuxhLon Ninhotlhe nir M-suE aDJ cu rah-

i t t Lnu l t i nsn r v i l s rpoh r

%/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{HALF-RouNDs

* l t c h d 5 l d e b y s i d e 6 t f o m d : t o iwith *lffnsercofd beseen the

PRocEDURES

brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdruprEd, oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add

rDd un$fird *Rs, ior !,ikrl

\unb.i 'hr p{6 Lo indicde $esrqnRrt or rppli.lLd! I'hE neilElt mu ipphd.dus rh.lam alloranc ol rlE rEliotrsly

Lou'dn. rnli$ ln( d6ign b

u For rhe foundadon dt: Pi&e

cr prp. hmr bo .drcrh.bek. {nh L}Phsrdshlp,Pd or.odft(ul nab,lE{

around rhe edss or by hali

b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg

odo thc foundnion-rhc.

a owrn( bsrde €:dr san

in,licned br rht ordo ol

da. ha.hh3 suiddhsFis 113s la) ctuut at ti2nsutald6@ts14and"3in|h3d6ig1skebhe,t in ris. 11&. tb) cutu

aibtnht tu hebht dhet sltiins,

: . u l 6 I a n I R P s c d o r f i

s.w iLN nsr . tu n,ni rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16)

6. stuft rlt h?lt uDd' \,I'rr (rdqb !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!

hrLl rouid or. g,!ur ofhnL

la) Rasta 3f ip 11 h wrbn @) s'w sth t2 avq tha ad@ or skp *1lc) ssw m gds€ at !tu ,3 a@ the edsebe raundatbr td) Easo tutness at thg entu at the dtips hto the badhg sean.le) sew tianqlta, harratnd *1 h ptace

h , t r c u ' d i l b ' l t & t g t

'h! fou rbn \irh $msjun

rno r& .,ds oL dr l l l(un1r b qE5rond qnh rhe

b cr modr fton r hilr, dNd

nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh, ndl

nrps. lollDsins rhl rumbfr &l{qum(ol:pplir or (b)

, N n d h , h r I N a , i nlr ) so! rlf ftn 'dE ol Lh(r,i[:r! i ,rL&! (]) EsLrk n'llncs { r]I um..,dorrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*

, h . n r d L . J d l n i i i ( h

Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu

7. Rcnor rhr rnporry nabiue.

rcu s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe

NorEs & VARTATToN5rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb!

$d r [o ra ru .h ' l f r ouML iBdiih{.( 50 addjnB hru rh€ ,liamtft (tu ndilt b $€ hrlr-round

ul half round A.tually rhd nu.hdeyadon i5 too ouch lor a tn[

oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Duldstni sEduallr indes ro rha,hcigh! $'1r! seving halr rounds*rh non rhnn jz rh€ roundadonvidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP..r rh..nds oI $e nnps in ar our

nlltils ro build ul in hcishr.rhe $aro b.6!(n IEU nunds

b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side

mft, oared by rhe coDstudonsmin'oabruade!chun€LAflrssins lhc lKt side of i hill tuundb plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm rog,uge i dnde for thc bpnidrins

GrliDe rhe *s haLf muM hhi. rodre sPlE benED rhc btsddrd sa,and ,nc ffi ,rrL {tuE rhe seDdside to dr loundadon (Fis rl r9)

durins sewing an,l discoungs

Hallmunds atu $(.d bd ftrllNh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundRrion b+ns to buls€ and curl up

roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhuimPed6 nirchins ,irh r asubr

rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr

Ratu.d nrip?iig E a Io$ rtldv.sior ofh,lf rcunds rr G siniltrb hllLruds in all r6p-c burNc An indnr for he8h' afhrstumng is not iddrd td rhc *ips orrbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.

1 .

ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr od

Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rchat tE seM t@th,q. 16) se||ira qn

CoNNDCIEDRoLLS

PRocrDURrs

i l tqd ro, ud, Dlr oail lLlc

{rmlD$ ( r|t rr {)stpM! Lh! sluulLo$ d dia

dnnd.i rrrdirdr Du5lN.d,fi.nadndd{5 Ll

r rrfcdi dc or a.h rdF

$ L h q l l i L o f L h ! r d h l i ! ' { L

\!nh rh€ naLl ,ide or rlI frb,n

L D ! 0 , ! , p l ( b ) n F , ! r r - r 0 )

(+.n) nulLLtrg oprugr ui di!$rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl b Lr"iro r!o) rp{' Rous :h{€r

osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0

'sr m! onPag.zrq) rn,tt4rr sds at stufred nk, la) plat,lb) sathet d lc) tanen he casngs

NorE5 {r VARTATToN5

onn dtrmtr for $. rbu1[.r

I0 rh. €si,Ei rishrlr !!o!.r d

.quidish fron, l]I rold su nr

(r).res rtDs hRak rrtr mus

l t h b d [ d h D d ( j f t r n u l l :

fk*cd n'br (r),i Ilg It 1r)

fo i ddadrd nnra(rorrnncLr rhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr

risrr sidc our ri.forc lufiing (G) nF,3 r1.{l surr!! r{,rL & hmd

FA 11 13. stutred nt Enatbsla) rcpstibh actass th6 prgatdd as.na. @ r@Ibh down the eentet al

! n ntrtGd,{r(s inro rh. rir

P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs nr.r rr

.lGns,hr.nds o{? nfttrd r0rl

a,Ds ro I r bickgtuNd rrbn.

sunace rck stutted aa{ sewhs. 15)

(rtrprs{!tuduJi r $frlr' (b),nF,g 111+) Td tr,s 1lr roLL

sid. ofof. fibri. s.r rh. *.oDd

$\ ,h. trtrnnffd alDsino,h.$rE iohnr* hn Pkc5 ofhhnc

: i ( )X

c1 It

L!:6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElicnsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh

gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'

r. $rth a hbn. nfr nririnsroDr.

bdNs arjrNr orhN fo

LrrrLE PrLLows

PRocTDUREs

D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn!

,hrc4h sPrs bd\tor &tg.r

'hr hch (F,s Lr +t) sd rlr

(Fig.lL 16l Edi4! ! i!h

(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.11l(r rmr) ouFide rh.

d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd

Fis 111r RaDnd tud ovat patuns tu irk p aws: ta)Entatse b $tinad he)eht (b) pal@hs ||it)out sean IaM la) sap6 with *iaaennb bp{ed nto tE

.Drhe6 or the oiEnat aurira. tb) Pzr*re vlhaul

$drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h.

(ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch'!nd, br nrhinc ovd €ch ou!

brl$L'lhLrB on eihc! sde or ln.

ldtqude $'m alloNar€ NLen

allor an$ dngonrlL) {ros.or

and nalnc Gea.r ro slu ,ns

Ntrh rniSh' !d{5 s' rhE

nurr,ns rouod or ovrt Pitio$s

Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hbd,e lrller rE-phnn.d smn.uon. Fof a do*d amns€ntit oI p

lo\r \rh sdsln sid6 0) ro

.d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry

.5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{.ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsGqdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini'irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n

pillors Hrnd *\r rhc pillo\sqdh{ dln dn! rnipnildrc

q;ruchnnh d6 coDndnnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts.r,ggdrdtrg. r kb5 (Fis r-51)

\ j . w * r c . a F a a t 4 , . 4 r 6 . t ( . q a ' a @ . . p o 1 a 1 f ; o > n a

il\-C,fr'

ci 4li

-1ili ,,'

\lt Z

lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.doFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[

fronr. rh. ourr rinirgriL bc *iLLe

pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l or {di+'

p Ld!+!rq\ (1) l,! p.rl!r!

reighr rrrr lufii,s. nrd (2) rl{

(Fis Ll tr) Br!x$! LLsll{([dgdtrhl,ftd rhrougMnr rr Gsng

prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL

fvins rosdln orrrrlr d .dgs

tr-trEredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6

:T|tftft I| :

NorEs & VAffATro 's

vnh,ht ovqalr na of,l[ shaP.:

ma(y drhr$ \rdft rhRn 4 (10.n)

!LLll,- difiqcn, u':' Glmsn.d'dingks, ransl.! i ld olaln.

rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro

orllr lorslds (frg n 5t)

( l ) , \ r u r m L o 8 ' L . s s i n s b u r

rcar-h|nich;sLthiid orni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq, idd a

r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr i,,d

lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs

li) ro( rlt ourrN$ otdrpfun

o ( 1 t r c . ( : ) F o f ! a ! h p ! L l , h o l !

G) s$! rLr! fror (o ar Linrg

.!r out insidc rh. *rn diplh.5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshr snkorr G) ![hhs ru dBs a\ rhe

'ht rc-|rann.d rnns.ntnr For

nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs)(5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh

t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l. rillo$.

Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$ h peehdes. (b) paneth will ssdrtu)rhe @hlet tc) P€ekhote tte

Go

0n

L T T P L L C \ ' ]

j rJard r., i .,: j id e !: !=i:: i

@ o

i o

Brscurrs

PRocEDURES

hlcargthcf€o'$ch15.b,r$.

ibr{N " (2 an) h'gh..nlargra ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {"oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,! '( | :r.n) hLsh. $ln?. r r" O j.m)

b & ' o r r r " ( 9 o n ) . M r . l d n sro Dl or g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ]

+ as*nbl ft Lis.uirs in , o\s

Loo* f,bn.,dra{d rio,i rrrpla'r Ccr{ b numos on

nF roq ol brNG iogtrhsqnh rrL qnrinss rosrd oD

oL ri!.u,G b dr nurr.d ro!! oa

o! rhe Ndde (FiE l. is)

,n Lark rick rhr Liri,sro rlr

z riom Lhira raLnic cur i b:s. to'

bP hLnc. cu , brcuir lo. ndl

. Fo i Lr.ur I " (Z idn) liq{

,DAh ford Prsr h s|h sid.

. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q

rn rrtdd Pl6r b ad sid.

\h</-a,

I4f'

Noils €- V,4KATroN5

!orr\' {urred ro 6hb|nh nriou, ncss of a b,(u( n.vs Pu5hnumnsi,no rh. corids oIlh.

s.wiq unnulled m{s ro sulftd

size s{rion larg. con*rudions,

*cdons s b. rd,ncd..nd {urr

An,rkrnareard sP-dier

nans Nnh pa,lcins fdr a blo.k oIbt.trts (r ) DEv z crid ol squse

norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrt gid ofenla{.d squRas Io} rhc pkard lopdf ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc

arouDd borh panms (2) wnh,f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tinsGmn r,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro$e lebnc cut for tht b,* .nd lne'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltr ba* Ph,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins andrlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion

pld loradon RcPsl in rhe oo$dirt.non (Fig. 11 tq) (a) as@hle

€rh hiscuir LhFush a dn c( inro

al&ugh rhc frdnionar biscuirh6 a squne ronndarion. { plrlLo! eael) side nso 3n:bl.sbGcuibro Gc lbh non,squacb6e(FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pn-

b on. barr rhe d6ir.d d$efion

Fiq. n *. ro quie sew a blocx otb@uxs ta) B*e andbp Ftum Mbk.ine nut'pb u*ur,, dth pt at l@rare m*Ed M sdntines. @ rq atubase,u'th.nrdqdh1|idmdhecwikinv*dpldba|mMbEfu|(c) sttuhed in iE @e Mrad s6

Addirronal ExNrE and l.vels

acd bdNq the bi$ui6, f.iviissleded bGcuiB unsturrcd andcrumd.n. and lurowhs rhe bil-lowins hbnc in th. cenk! G.[e! ro

sn6d36 fta bjscuir venrnonrojurif) ,r1e Eee, tner aE Edm-suhr lons ,nd slcndd butprumP Th€r aft .onnrud.d l'kbG.!i6 h all Esp(c bur onc

lnn .ado l i p ] . onder rs id . .only & .vo oppcirc sids lurpled5. ,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s

ndncls rd a sEas. pitdn.

dnedo!. inccIins rh.l.rstL ofth. shdL lidG of rh. rcrhngl. brtht anounr oI rh. d6r.d d.vadon

PEAKS ANDVALLEYS

ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e

PnocEDLiRE5

lamlfu4l$i&onredhgs q u r k s ( F i g . 1 1 6 L ) s d L l r

a s q n m i l l h . d . n g d D E I i 1

rhr nqnumrmr of on. 5id.oldr! rlrtrgl! (.Ls rr.62)

side or rLrc squ;i. (Fre Lt 6l)

{{rng nihnoE b lach rixt

per, Lqh,I F{k rh.Fnrs

nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr

n.r pildL \ r rhL Drdl.don.ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne Psr,

Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr

Fb 11.62. (a) Mth a mpas set b hNk s tunEtrat base, dtatu 3 tiarsE wih th@e ewt sides. tb) usins he

atbwance:, and circt$ l. ) 10 mtk he nneB

Fie. 11 61 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta aneew the rei srtu, and tc) the nen teavirs the

e& at the tuse /b) Match and

Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j

libi !n frg 6d) \rih ighl

ir.

Fe 1 t66 la) Peaks sewn beehel

Fa I I 65. sew tuta pdks 4|elhelwth a sean ju* ro thc tdh ot the ti6t

l [ r b N i F L g l l 6 7 ) i o . d ' !

plh!trl|nqorfinull

rh,lth6. \tr. nrfrrn

Nor[s & V,tRr,rrroNs

p.rL |)l doi(s Ldjllor {(lr(g

, \ n 0 u ! P a | \ L l l { ( l D N l U j

, " L t i : ' :

StructuredSurfaces

72 UsingDarts

DART BASICS

SEau&Nc DARr 5rIMs

,haa,rs k gdhr i,r tronr

. !!hd' 5$m3 i dnr or rtr

r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk

. .riP rh. rr,m!]l h" (lronr

r. sN {nh ! sinal€ drc:d $nor

( r ) r[ I r rnd or rrr rJobbnLhqJ b ft.nd ot rtr r(dlr

knd (r) rtrrrhsd! rhc !(dle

rdl! R$\ Dd 'h. tr(dl{Lnd

'rr! Lhr{dbs guids r rnsiDn

G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr.

rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr lrrl(r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar

nrlrkfto rnsl. { fmdF ou,

SINGLE-PoTNTEDDART

mouth or$eVwhth s alw:y3 *

po ii or the V wh*e ihe 6brt ele

PRocEDURES

r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l

!orrh. diir *.. nraichr,

niudurd ron aris rz oAdal)l or.ollh.lollo!Ltrs

Ndei nlh ,ri! &4 kd .ds! n "'n!'d, d[ di* I&N{fu hl' ' l 4

,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d (rr3 r2.)

Lrnixr an trturi0n (or d.prD

dor Gr d.p'h) w l lulniuk N

a Fora shsh dar: (r) E{eod

rh. oPPosir€ edg. (r) aur

nor ns i/ '(! snE) 5honof 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard

ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntora si@le dat 14 Ladlin and bghot the daft. lb) Pauffi stashed n thedadkEghighla@bkdoppEib6de6.hd lc) e ed beetBtthafufuddM@depk'dh|hedade2M n d p'pet p'td. (4 Dan tucdsjd66padbgekdardEedgastuiqhtue m a pTet Bb.le) carccbd tu ttte tude1t ttu)

(5) cur rhe dac oFn. R6roE$e!qsl€hd}orja'g.ddd

(Fig. M). (6) To n.I. &6

tibn onc .dgr thbugh fi.

sft !d3€ nd rcl€r *F (t)

Nder ,{'' 'rrridr ondidrd. d'djd r.drmn6 oJti. paftn' Ni/l nori rlr st-,tor ruAurnnr c d€ oist.

ddos rh. rdp.daogdrr dara' dans silL irct.ft, a nEddr6 {iU Lr ldigd rrdd'4i

cur our rhedM. (5) Ab the

l}.i,t conroul (6) cll rh.

(l) cormrins dc drn lin6,

(2) surL $. ptts, sprntdby : disdnc. .qu,l to om I'atft anoud oJ rrr ,rai{d dda-ddldqrj', b ' niP of paP4

vid. 4 Lh. b6e 6 th. epar&

,lans. (4),{b lh. lds of Gc

Ebrc the e'ics b rhrl prs

Hg'12ns/€€h.and.predpel|entrtur9wipt*6 ta)Paw.dfudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafudabl m a papq patch lb) P'dffi

"nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6

',,.,,

, ( / /

)

\":). ' aha,Deh,9ed5h;

i\A

tve 1o lrabht euidettus taha retu

du( inu,d .uNing rsuks

noFbn\ ri i,kc r fom

doDr or bo\l (Fis 1.1 3)

n i rI r to, r, ( , l0 D , r , ri dl!,

drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri

I'o$ oD rlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)

se'is or prsr ,67) I'ordrB

3i+hr 5ids on da s r ri.contr6: (l)rri!! Ltu 5ilhor

( 2 1 [ n l a q c , r s i h o r d r ] l l.tuu b r! orur,//Jv

rr,!(b, rqurrihs ,h r.DsrrNolrlr ilhour Ind eDlar[e

l D l s ( ! ) . d q r r h . r i r F .

or r r rd rb(F ,s r :6 ) rh .s .

n.'r rQi+r.sidcd Pdr,, hb

s p x . d d : n r : ( l ) t k ! L l ( ! l

tutridr$5 c)lnLrEL,hr!l-6rnt Rrriremd \ drL ri{'JE onn ,I dr A.(d rJ.!l

{orn c) Dnrd. rht nrhotr{r

!Js!) 15) .oFp{. Llrrj11,0,

ror Enred fonns slu\ncd Nihnul'iph ddi enlnlc and .qulEerrodrrts rhe non pEcne aM dirblE Gsur6 stash rnd 3prtad li.ssoft*h.a in bdweo rh. 8ks,:nd fin xrd erral8c-rnd .qui'.

djdaht 6 r lom.a ndr r pE.. t r r l n e l a @ r r r r h d fndhod d{ add5 aruund rh. dars6 ( rcdmc rnid. lhE dnE lhnh

ol rht Jancd form an cfi.( lhd

r. ftss rlr df6. dPenins nrian dro{'icsof'nnDcddai6, l{st Prcs on r p,dd.dhondius. rheo. r poinr pft$,

d'a ll aid rh. slnpins of rherabric lbrn Fhser pN darc

4. fo rirnl rrr .ds. or 1 d:nedrorm. hhd or firt rht cdse. tin.qirh a duplicdc or drc dan d

rhe drtb. roslbilf. r orkr5hap. ol a drhd lom sw rhr.d36 ro a ba*.tr' fion $c

sn r . .enenta, bdne :AbB,a d t1F dr4) b ant""ia4 tre,,"i.-

Nots & VARtAfloNs!s thr gfts.and{ tr nclnod

b, advcmroE ruD wi$ daftw'd on. suidins pnhdple in

riir tu lnoum rhord by drd,'cpadi.€ frrh pap< ud

n€ous! {rh rhc rabnc ro crc!.

i:d fr,n nEish and dryhsdans Fdrgd riminins and dlon,de .(r3$ b b. unftnry mnbmd

drhbiri) of rhe ndhod ex"torc

w funonrc lGan isuc 'U* lne

r,tnirre Edhods b d.vddP Pr6s b nn..dimedonil tdlc

who dialrns dans bl 5rishinsRnd spftadins. rrr $idrn dI rhddciuL d.vdidn m,y tre dnid.d

rh. err cdg. \\rcn plfnidg rhedrb ror a circularshepr ro b.€nleq.d .od equalicd, ,noi. drtuPrcduc a motu pdr.dly rouodedIdrm ,haD lss ,lans, and r nlhoF

dn6 ro modd rtro x smoo(htybunded Iom rhRn r sl,shrlr cun-ing lrhoudr For drnpL. .v,lsLaps rcquir ooE d3r6 d rhc

Td nidtrnrnd rhc o,lss.nnd,quali:t n.rnod bdrq. risurlnc dro+ilar pnhn lh,r. 6 rhe sjthoudr dr shadoLv oI I ftrte.diEn ion-ar lom rnrsin€ rtr dric .ld idnor lo{.nns ftc Jea oI r]t pa(dtrshaPe vhilt k(ping rhc oub si..nd lhaPe, lh. si mddshdorqrn. $h. ro. rhn Erlt, s .onbr&ion ol dne b6si Pnn.ipt6 rpptr.sb dd rormrton: o ) rnl,Bontnr.'tuale half rhe d6ind d*?do/dcpth. (2) rhe anroum ol hbicEno!.d by a din xr irs qidd Frnr

Poim. (l) Aft tr dnhjns rh. dcrc.

rcflkr rlr shap. oI rht o.giid pi!

siul. d:n Gl$h nl sp'!d) d'ddmN 1hl nor d rh.silhoudr(.nlr4 udqulEo aE Lhe noi

Lhnr$uDdflllom$L hcl)td{r

Erp.d ld rsr r'!i ({ljtr{ 'rt dc

\ludBtufa,hldns {! add.J

rfrh. v,nishinglroins oI nrndrE o! oPPqne q dF(' cdscs

,hQd5 0r rlre ntrv.. datu .o'v-lJ(/ld nrDl !rry$ I nilhhsrDb

Nirh nrshr irrnroB (r1 r2-sl

ry\Ll u l . d d i . { h i ! h l P f u s

dinofbnnt.d fri.. d..o]1. I

rr.d d lr od nrlltbr5r.

rcEsed on rhe PrEn an adiun

v€rL as orsd. dars (Fis D r0)

rlr linc n,d .rod ou, rronr irNr!( (!lip {,d rm LINiqo

oLllr dll0 !$rnrLLr td $ri(

nof ldo,. (rhDg n( rpcx ofrlr

+_It

Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a) Fded b are side tb) AdtGted ar he @t@ talnabhhs eds6 at the bse te) cnteEd avet the dad setu td) caerhapedpni4hns dsd hnned at lt€ basa

,i 4 ri ,ra. A .r f f! 5:t.ti i n or ,:r -

i/. r) i tu... 4 ; ia, t, . t+r) r9r tu ral

lsr !i,r:frr!r-r 19 ri,Pr! i.q i \ril

! . | t : ) ; | | ' ! ; |n q.a a't j l1, | l r l

! N . L L f O \ T E f t , ; i

@ '\i! @c lrft irt d! i ic rj. oi qerari o r4 ! G q J ! l p o r r e : : ! h o r e n 3 t r r i , / j d - i i ! i ..af,! n,, ' |Tl t l rF1fldr l i f,r ir! n. r

ir,..t \r .rE:i..i r-,- ir '_ ,!r!r r!

r r n i . ( l i r i - i n . i f i f i r . i r . \

I rr ' - i r ! t f ! ! i I t f i

i i 3 ! i ! . r ! , . r i r q t i : i , ! r - i i c r r , f , . t i . ?

DouBl E-PoINTEDDART

NroDs & ViRrAno\s

b l ! N r . l r L { t r lAs r L )

rh r r r r r r rL r r d rL{ ro r in t h

d..i,r\ h rLr r,, D.$ orrrl hN. r

$ n ! h l ] ] l l h L o | $ * l ! N n c d

Fs 1242 la) Dobte @Dbd dan a

Inpensa|e|a||1fu.|fravedbfrhe d'd tb) cutuhe dad+Fhd

(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1

! k . ? l . r r s d , n a o u r r r ( [ n 1

$Er! the dnn€nsionariq, of drl,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&, dlnpanm', u{ gridd.d Fp?i 'o d.!be

ddublc pohrd dar6. combinedNrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab.n d c d c c c ( o d { . h ' l a n o n i B

rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wrunssid. olrhelabric (Fis. 12 lr)

scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrirprurD lakens rhe nrms$ of rhe

rh. wbng sid. oL lhc tabff pull rlrtabdc dovn ar fte ends. w]rensnlhed on lnE dshr side. th€ ridbktulds suppdn h.igtu a, 6rh .nd(Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' onP4€ 267) ro €varuft a dan pn-

squ,rc ol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sidaorlnc sd.hcd ioplq rhq willb.qunr dificrcnl M!6uE dre hbric

Th. bctorc dd msurm.d rndfie zfGrdai merurement reld a

a ursd mqsumd. Afiri nnchins

non h.ld jun abovc r fibncAllor b cool and dry b€fore moring. Td libil'zr ioddY,llr a.kr][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti

Unrsurl fonnarions rtsuhwhcn 5l€ndq dans re *Ich€d

s.ulpd rLr Lcnsrl,. Nidlh, andilnedion oI rhe drc, rh. *p{&

and \qons sidr nirchins. coin

srio6. rolil5 on the surfa( becomelicun'i? daign .l.d&s ddnconspicuous. somdrn6. G,n Gtsulp€d &bric rhn undrrlirs rh.

+ < >< > + +

< > +: + +

8:84o:o:o

ZA\

VZA\VA\v7xVZA\V\VZ

++A\ l^\ l^\

++

\ 11hr) r,: t ceN1t. .1 lnr"r.-r-, diir int ro. r r.era i,t gF

J q4r ! irrlr I' r it ii: :nr. io. of, ri ilf 1ir e r , a . r ! 5 ! , r . : { t r j n , r . , k r , i , r i - r f u r4&n.! iG r 4s ad 5!l l ir.r r; i i4 r 5 r r.nr n

!r, kirn !r i j i I , r , i ,.1 ,i , { lr i n i r c F o . , r e + , i i i , ? ! r . r t I i t ! G id.,rrNrir{ i i ! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, , jdi r:!,,f i ..,

l i i . r i . , f f r , k ' , f a i , l j . N r i r , h { / , q , ? 4

D O L ] E L E P O N T E D D A R T

r l r j i r : : a o i T L i l i : ! ' ' { T ( r o i N x l ! i , . ] ' r d l l

d,n Ai ir-..:.- ! i re lFr r. !,- er oi a! r;ni

D O U B L E . P O I N T E O

+ if i i i l oliJiui !@:r !( , !r4drr r? liqlr { !i b.rr 3iu:! j

t'Vrtt l H

t:t

finH.tlJ.ri

1.

++++

* l

*

It

* .

*

-t* . '#

Manipulations

ffi,,,W

73 Combinrrtions

TEcHNreuEVARTATToNS

a

rEiNJlo6 ./ r4de.tshrd

,8ue he loh. qh tr4lki r 5

. {n it rs5 i n. r0!d!d l.F.

lei,h.r,:- hri h-.,,.r J rr. isd

CREATIVE COMBINAIIONS

i , . : f . D i i i r s r . i r . i : c l r - . , i - i . i.d i n ' . i : i , ' i . j l ] i ] i f i r -1 r r l ] i . . . . i . I ' , .1 . i

:i r .r !11,r r ?ir!r o,-nli ,l,irderrrri & 5 : ! . 1 ' l ( J ! . r , r l : l L I l ! 2 f l i e r l ( r 4 ' r i i g l ]

5 i ! - . @ r r . u i i r i ( r M r i l

: \:aa.}8,

.'RJ'\ $ .

s l ; t i t

7j : l ,

illrlp l l i

-znS

)r*"'-1 .i'+r.'l

'^.

r

'1"

iIt1tf

' * - t -

, --j,' '.r'

i" ,==

Appendix

HAND STITCHES

BAcKsrrrcH

becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid

trcm ight b rert (s*s a d re.toN f refr haided) Br is a threrdcd

lrmm) to rhe rcht of the emergrn€thread tor an *n bac!'dkh,make i nrrh 7r'(6mh) on3 mder.

pmm) ii rrcft ot rh€ .m4s ng

br n3 r of y/ (rmm) h iron. Eri

mrh re sdrch ig (i) h Fg.A.r) rhe

sdrhe5 Mak is 2 nrth h" ( .nm)

or z" (6hm) h front of the eme4is thred rirtu the needre in@ thehbft %" (3mh) b the r shr ol the

Fmm) n nont (b) ii Fiq A r). For

rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh

Fig. Ai. (a) EEn backtteh lb) Harba.kstueh l.) s€utiE wrh tuek

BASflNG

b eri tss$ dr dn*oE f eri.handed).For €ven bnting. make

lengih I b&kas n rront (h) nFi!.A ) For unryen b6rh3,hk

of rhe slrhce((b) n FsA-2)

OvrRaAsr SirrcH

/ '" lrmm) bcow se ar edge;mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{

rt' {6mm) :had.0d fr" (rmm)

LADDTR sttrcH

n ] t c h n € t r c d i c d l o m ' 3 h t b e f t(re86e a dredotrir €t.hmded).

bke a i rch Ln" (3mm) ong N de

nd r,,(rrm) on3 hside the

(",,'.)-1Fis A.4. Laddet *hh la) ct6ns

a nrd rf pnn) on3 is de .aPPLiqud! forded eqe.wrhdr

,/t" (3mm) ahead. reep is rteeme'g ie th@d iu* uder.he rordededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir

(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer 6 (oh

BrIN:DirrrcH

sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc

righr rc err (rsss:rrdr4bN irreit.hmded). Br is se ned e !P

ihe 4P q!€: rod x" (3hm)ahad

nrhs.pullthethread hut (G) n

CArcHsrircH

rrom left ro right (rd.*e i direcrm, ' eftnan&d) on rhe wrcis

cdch oie or irc ihreids or rhe

OVERHAND SrrrcHco*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro

io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es. d.

to reft o. rert rc risht To join Mfolded or finLhed €ds6. ali€n rhe

nit hes. Fof q+ nit.h,,ngerh€needre foMrd %" €mm)ii ihe

chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih.

Rui\iMN6 STrrcH

wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEer d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe

wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae

S PSTITCE

ts rcrred rrcm r d'r b reft {r*e6ear dir4oni if eflhanded) m the

edse ol a sing e-ford hm or fidnslldvin3 fdrErd 7/' (6nm), P .k uP

(6mm), Prk !P M or thrce 6@d,

P! de thread geirt b s{urc the

SrABsrrrcE

iwo :d on, ( r) P6h 6e reedre

rhe fab&. {1) tush rhe reedre ba.k

m y o u t o l i h e | a b r c s E h * t c h i g s

TAcKNc

hand s rthes. ofren 5Eb* tched, tha!join one e em.m b ano6s r coF

TAIoR TAc(s

b e d a m a g e d b / o t h g m a r k i g a b

the Pd4n 6 the rish. side or 6etuhd(.workry frcm . shr 6 rert(de& a drredoErf efi-hnded)

be@$ lhe nitchs cis.Ar) c4

reno€ ihe Partsn To Fxk Mlaye6 ot abr c ar oi.e. lave v*t

(lcm)and ihe dreads b€ftei

WH|P SmcHlNG

GLOsSARY

APPI raur,(r)sma 4shaPed e6r of fab

6b' . (2) ro rdd a 5mdr otod ot

BrAJ

( o 4 E h e i d e o s r h g E h o i 6 e

BODKJN

qe q a tuer' 3r P. d$iqred to

CRosscMlN

E.458

EDct:srfic

f; (r.smm) froF a ro dd edge o.s e m | h e w i t h t h e l a b l . i s h r i d e 4

FArRrc-SAE MAru<rar

nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen,ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,rehcnd€d fdbrr beto€ 4bs rifkerhdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEdfordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in*an a6hi.s (r) B*.n8 md 6iror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k

e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b c m d w c c

'e cr p po iis (6) colofed pfl. s

d d e i e 6 r i i b r r G s P e r c i kmade by BercD w a shsPerofo

qsss (7)r{han c P$! with

0rt&m e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E

(e)a (r:ck Pssed hro rre toP wlh

ft.hins berore r fades. (r0) re|8rhs

FAcJNc

FI\'6m Pluss

FLUTE

FoL DATIoN

Gn.trN

IlrM ArLo$AN1a

IRoN

IINJNc

fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|

NEEDLE MoDELUNG

NPs

NorcEEs(^) mrkh$ on the des of P*.

iedons ouiside eim rrokic*.

PrN MATCH

SIABILEE-(r)ro aarc eadeGd *itd n3

or rabd.r ro 3ql G) ro add rrnre$

STAa[zER

SrAYsflTcHrNGshghtsdthhgbymachhe

,lls:ie.sd/nit h is p€Ena theedselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe

{shi 5ide or r€ sqsitched. rr. .

STEAM BrocK, SiEAMPRrss

latiom,adju* rhe rord: md ur a

SnrcH-lN-THE Drrc[

f t g e r e d € b / 6 e f o | d o f a d G e d

STRnTGIiFGMTN

STR4IGHI oF rHEFABnrc

h i d d e d o n p a n e f t b y a | o n g '

SuForK Pu-.as

hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed

PREis

QurLr-As-You-GoMdhod oI quilths thd 5ErE by

eDlccE i6 smrller segmenB whkh

''hp quik isl apa*ment quikhsi'

RucHE, RucHrN6

rtmPoEr, hshioi wr tins, ottli

SEAM ALrowANcEsPc beseq $e cu! edse rnd

SEllTDGEsLensdF; edsPs dw@i rabrrc.

-rftr al rbsre, or dde usdto add imEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-

abft r tEhed. (r) r€hPohrt

bondedbtheba.kofthefound&

areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs

STAY-{ )IoPftftanaf P! adon

36birde. (2) s6birizii3 hbft iurby

lurr*ry unden e the entrc m:dp-lladdlrohedsebed3e|iP:d,|3ayunde ]es 'heman iP l l :@d*ction ot the frbic.a round*ioi, a hc

G e, a sr p or 6bnc, Ep., of r bbon

'he h6d of a P sied :migems9

TEMPLATE

ToPsnrcH

b t d F q : e m o n t h e i g h t s i d eor ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne

UNDERST[cH-ro *ddr 3drth b, h&hhe

fa(e rabrt. rld,(r.shm) frcm lhe

ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe

\t'ADDrNc

SELEcTEDBIBLIoGRAPY

BooKs

th,t s.n.d appbpnr. b Ey ab.r.d and considncd r woih drh. ifr ldutrd onerir c €c}niqu.,id.x.oi.!cnrhi thrinq6€d

'hd roilss dosnt indude any of

rh,lcoBEr or nd$1i3 mdi. 'han askd.h or a d.finr,on inlilu.bhb hq bur nd {oud io juniry Ircftnn- rdr i.adds 10 !o6uh. rdo mon,n.nd rhe londsns:

l}rndoJn!4 rh. F.dnds of rn.

ti( tuh.n cd,kl. ri.er oiF .

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