Textured Hooded Pocket Wrap

YarnBernat® Softee Chunk Tweeds™, 300 g/10.5 oz, 298 m/316 ydsA - Blue Tweed - 2 BallsB - Midnight White - 2 BallsC - True Gray Tweed - 1 Ball

Hook• 8 mm / L Hook• 4.5mm / 7 Hook

Gauge• 8 sc and 9 rows = 4” [10 cm]

Measurement• 72” long x 20” wide. • From top down, it is 36”• Pockets can be moved to suit your arm length.

AbbreviationsBeg - BeginningCh - ChainDc - Double crochetDcfp - Double Crochet Front PostDtr - Double TrebleRep - RepeatRS - Right sideSc - Single crochetSc2tog - Single crochet 2 togetherSk - SkipSp - SpaceSt - Stitch

Design ConsiderationDesign has arrow stitching that requires multiples of 4. For a starting chain for changing sizes, it needs multiples of 4 + 3 to keep the balance.

The wrap also has Sc, Ch 1 sps stitches aka the moss stitch. The moss stitch is known to compress. It’s why in one row, we are adding more stitches after the arrow sec-tion is done and when we return back to the arrow stitching

near the end, we have to decrease.This is a chunky weight project that crochets pretty quickly.

The hooded section keeps the chill off the back of the neck which was realized when I was photographing outside.

Notes

• Multiples 4 + 3• Ch 2 at the beginning for row doesn’t count as st.• Ch 3 at the beginning of row counts as st.• Stitch counts in the moss stitch have the ch 1 sps as

included.• Even number rows like 2, 4, 6 and etc are right side

(RS) of main wrap itself.

Final Revision

If you find a flaw in this design, usually this goes to our testing team first but this pattern is so new. I am putting out in public. You can email me corrections to:

inquiry@thecrochetcrowd.com

Instructions

©2020 The Crochet Crowd

Designed By: Michael Sellick

1

With A, ch 183. (Multiple of 4 + 3)

1st row: (WS) 1 sc 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end of row. Break. Turn. 182 sts.

2nd row: (RS) With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 3. Sk first st. *Work-ing in back loops only. 1 dc in each to end of row. Break. Turn. 182 sts.

3rd row: With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 2. 1 hdc in first dc. 1 dcfp around each st to last dc. 1 hdc in last dc. Turn. 182 sts.

Arrow Stitching for rows 4 and 5.

4th row: Ch 3. *Sk next 3 sts. 1 dtr in next st. Working behind last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped sts. Rep from * to last hdc. 1 dc in last hdc. Turn. 182 sts.

5th row: Ch 3. *Sk next 3 dc. 1 dtr in next dtr. Working in front of last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped dc. Rep from * to last st. 1 dc in last sts. Turn. 182 sts.

6th row: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Break. Turn. 182sts.

Moss Stitching Section Begins

2

This section, we need to increase the stitches to deal with stitch tension. At the end of the section, we will decrease again.

7th row: With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 1, *1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st. Rep from * across to end of row to last 3rd st. 1 sc in last 2 sts. 197 sts. Turn. Cheating tip, just ensure it’s an odd number across before moving on.

Set Up Row - 8th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *Ch 1. Skip next st. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 197 sts.

9th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. *Ch 1. Sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next sp. Rep from * to end of row, sc in last st. Turn. 197 sts.

10th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Skip next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sts. 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. 197 sts.

11th - 18th rows: Rep 9th and 10th rows.

19th: Rep 9th rows. Break.

20th - 23rd rows: With C, rep rows 10th and 9th - twice. Break at the end of 23rd row. Notice the order is repeating row 10 and then row 9 in that order.

24th row: With B, rep 10th row.

25th - 30th rows: Rep rows 9th - 10th.

31st row: Rep 9th row. Do not fasten off.

Prepare Back Fold of HoodThe goal is to eliminate out 24 sts. To keep the Ch 1 sp config-uration balanced, it’s important that the first stitch is a ch 1 sp

and the last stitch is a sc st.

• Fold the project exactly in half on a flat surface.• With stitch markers, mark the 2 middle stitches. One will be

a sc st and the other should be a ch 1 sp. • From the first stitch marker, include that as being the 1st st,

count the next 11 sts (which includes ch 1 spaces) down from the fold. Mark it with a stitch marker. Repeat for the other stitch marker on the other side of the fold. You should be able to count 24 sts from one stitch marker to the other. With the fold being exactly the half way point.

• Use a spare piece of yarn or locking stitch marker to attach the 2 sections together.

32nd row: Rep 10th row across. When jumping over the tied

3

middle section. Keep the stitch count as (1 sc in ch 1 sp, ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp) and carrying on. 173 sts.

Whip stitch using the same colour of the hood hole fold at the edge at any time.

33rd - 36th rows: Repeat 9th and 10th rows. 173 sts.

37th row: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog. *1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc2tog in next st. Rep from * across to end of row to last 18 sts before end. 1 sc in last 17 sts. 162 sts. Break. Turn. Cheat-ing tip, this will give you 38 sets of 4, plus 1 st for each edge.

In the next row, we are doing single crochet 2 together. We will be using all sc sts and ch 1 sps. Sc2tog will use a sc and ch 1. We have to ensure we get to a number that is divisible by 4 with 1 extra stitch on the edges.

38th row: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 34 sts, sc2tog. *1 sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog in next st. Rep from * across to end of row to last 33 sts before end. 1 sc in last 33 sts. 164 sts. Break. Turn. Cheating tip, this will give you 41 sets of 4, plus 1 st for each edge.

Final Arrow Stitching Edging Begins

39th row: (RS) With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Turn. 164 sts.

40th row: Ch 3. *Skip next 3 dc. 1 dtr in next dc. Working in BEHIND of last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped dc. Rep from * to last st. 1 dc in last sts. Turn. 164 sts.

41st row: Ch 3. *Skip next 3 sts. 1 dtr in next st. Working FRONT last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped sts. Rep from * to last hdc. 1 dc in last dc. Turn. 164 sts.

42nd row: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Break. Turn. 162 sts.

43rd row: With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end

Jump over where they are joined maintaining the sc, ch 1 sps.

of row. Break. Turn. 162 sts.

44th row: With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 2, 1 hdc in same beg st. 1 dcbp in each st to 2nd last st. 1 hdc in final st. Fasten off.

Pockets - Make 2

With C, ch 16.

1st row: RS Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end of chain. Mark side with stitch marker and leave on until you sew the pocket onto the wrap. Turn. 15 sts.

2nd row: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st to 2nd last st. 2 sc in last st. Turn. 17 sts.

3rd - 5th rows: Rep 2nd row. 23 sts at the end of 5th row.

6th row: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.

Rep 6th row until pocket measures approx 6” tall, ending on right side.

Next row: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across to 3rd last st. 1 sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn.

Rep next row until 3 more times. Fasten off.

Pocket Border: (RS) With A, attach to the top of the last st from the previous instructions. Ch 1, 1 sc evenly spaces around the pocket. Join with sl st to beg sc, Fasten off.

Surface Overlay: Using B, focus on 2nd st gap space away from edge. Surface overlay around. Tips for surface overlay can be found on our YouTube Channel. Watch carefully how to end Surface Overlay for best results.

4

Tassels - Make 2

Make 2 tassels and attach to wrap.

Leaving 10” long ties from the tassels. Use standard 3” tassel maker. With C, wrap 20 times around the maker and form tas-sel. It’s best to use weaver knots for maxim hold.

With 4.5 mm, U.S. G Hook. With C, ch 35.

Insert hook with ch attached to position where you want to at-tach to wrap. This will lock chain without sewing to the wrap. Then begin next step.

1st row: 1 sc ch ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end. Fasten off with long tail. Use long tail to sew onto the wrap. Attach tas-sel to other end. Do this for each.

Use tapestry needle to hide in the loose ends into the chain of the tassels.

Finished example was steam blocked for shaping and best pre-sentation. I sewed the pockets on after it was blocked. It was sitting on the table drying with a tin can under the hood to keep it’s shaping.

Tassels are attached to the wrap as you crochet the chain.

Sewing Pockets to Wrap

You can change the position of the pockets for your own arm length. Mine are sewn two finger thicknesses away from the edge of the wrap.

Pockets were sewn so just the flat edge of the pocket wasn’t sewn to allow your hands to sink in and anything inside cannot easily fall out.

When sewing, don’t go through the entire wrap. Just use the top surface yarn strands on wrap. The bottom picture below is the back of the wrap and you don’t see any evidence of pockets being sewn on.

The back of the wrap should be nice and clean to not see the sewing of the pockets.