Textile Testing Quality Control Path to the Customer’s Heartlibvolume8.xyz/.../determinationofstiffnesspresentation2.pdf · B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading

Textile Testing Quality Control

Path to the Customer’s Heart

Textile Test Products 2002


Our business is driven

by standards


What is standardization?

� Standardization is the single solution of a recurring problem under the given scientific, technical and economic possibilities.


How old is standardization?

� Ancient Egypt, 4000 years ago Standard on bricks made of mud of the river Nile: Length: 41 cm, width: 20 cm.

� Ancient Rome, 2000 years ago Standard on water pipes of lead: Fixed dimensions, minimum weight and numerical designation of pipes.


What is a standard?

� Different definitions by different organizations

� ISO-Definition:

Standards are documented agreements containing technical

specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently

as rules, guidelines, or definitions of characteristics, to

ensure that materials, products, processes and services are

fit for their purpose.


Technical Standards

� Standards are

developed voluntarily

used voluntarily

� Standards become legally binding

when a government references them in a regulation

when they are cited in a contract


Technical Standards

� Standards contain

a main part

Annexes or Appendixes

� The content is

mandatory (main part, normative annex) or

informal (notes, nonmandatory or informative annex)


Technical Standards

� Examples for different types of standards (ASTM):

classification

guide

practice

specification

terminology

test method


Technical Standards

� Standards for test methods

may describe the required instruments in detail including

drawings, pictures, type of instrument, name and address of

manufacturer etc.

(often in company standards, American standards, “old“ ISO

standards)

may describe the performance of the test

(“new“ ISO standards, CEN standards)


� "Performance based standards "- what does it mean?

They focus on the intent of the standard and will no longer

specify the type of equipment or manufacturer

They allow the user to conduct a test using non-specific

instrument parameters (basis: testing procedures)

They allow the manufacturer to design and to make

improvements to instruments without being "locked in" to a

particular design

Technical Standards


� Performance based standards

advantage: does not retard the technical progress

disadvantage: open for competitors

disadvantage: may increase variability

Technical Standards


Standardization Organizations

� Different levels of Standardization

International ISO, IEC

Regional (European, Arabian countries, Latin America, ...)

CEN, CENELEC, ...

National ANSI, BSI, DIN, JISC, ...

Industry Association AATCC, SAE, VDA, ...

Company JC Penney, Marks & Spencer,

Sears, Victoria’s Secret...


Standardization Organizations International

� ISO - International Standardization Organization founded 1947

headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland 130 members, one in each country

2,800 technical bodies, 30,000 experts

12,000 standards ISO standards may, but do not have to be published by ISO members as national standards. Changes are allowed.

� IEC - International Electrotechnical Commission

founded 1906

headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland

formal agreement with ISO, JTC


Standardization Organizations ISO Members

� Australia (SAA)

� Brazil (ABNT)

� Canada (SCC)

� Chile (INN)

� China (CSBTS)

� Colombia (ICONTEC)

� Costa Rica (INTECO)

� Ecuador (INEN)

� Indonesia (BSN)

� Israel (SII)

� Japan (JISC)

� Malaysia (DSM)

� Mexico (DGN)

� New Zealand (SNZ)

� Panama (COPANIT)

� Philippines (BPS)

� Singapore (PSB)

� Thailand (TISI)

� USA (ANSI)

� and many more ...


Standardization Organizations Europe

� CEN - European Committee for Standardization

founded in the beginning of the sixties

headquarter: Brussels, Belgium

members: EC + EFTA + Czech Republic

CEN standards have to be published by CEN members as

national standards without any change.

� CENELEC - European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization


Standardization Organizations CEN Members

� Austria (ON)

� Belgium (IBN/BIN)

� Czech Republic (CSNI)

� Denmark (DS)

� Finland (SFS)

� France (AFNOR)

� Germany (DIN)

� Greece (ELOT)

� Iceland (STRÍ)

� Ireland (NSAI)

� Italy (UNI)

� Luxembourg (SEE)

� Netherlands (NNI)

� Norway (NSF)

� Portugal (IPQ)

� Spain (AENOR)

� Sweden (SIS)

� Switzerland (SNV)

� United Kingdom (BSI)


Standardization Organizations Cooperation

� ISO/CEN Cooperation: Vienna agreement of 1991.

The agreement defines procedures for the following:

• cooperation by correspondence

• cooperation by mutual representation at meetings

• adoption of existing International Standards as

European Standards

• cooperation by transfer of work and parallel

approval of standards

Principal guideline: General test methods should be developed

within ISO. Requests for general test methods within CEN

should be transferred to ISO.


Standardization Organizations Committees

� ISO Technical Committees

TC 35 (Paints)

TC 38 (Textiles)

TC 61 (Plastics)

� CEN Technical Committees

TC 139 (Paints)

TC 248 (Textiles)

TC 249 (Plastics)


Standardization Organizations USA

� Governmental sector 80 Organizations, 44,000 standards

department of defense alone 34,000 standards

� Private sector

620 Organizations, 49,000 standards

central co-ordination: ANSI

130 professional associations and scientific Organizations (for

example AATCC, SAE),

14,000 standards

300 trade Organizations, 16,000 standards

40 Standardization Organization (for example ASTM),

17,000 standards



� ANSI - American National Standards Institute founded 1918

non-profit Organization

coordinating Standardization work of 175 accredited Organizations in the private sector

no standard development

member of ISO and IEC

� ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials

founded 1898

profit Organization

132 committees, 32,000 members

10,000 standards



� SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers founded 1905

non-profit Organization

14,000 active members

1,400 automotive standards

� AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists founded 1921

1,000 active members

185 standard methods, more than 40 % related to ISO standards


Harmonization Trend

� Situation in the past

Only status of "recommendations"

� Situation at present and in future

Tendency to "worldwide acceptance" and in consequence

harmonization of National Standards with International

Standards.

� Major reasons for this trend

Globalization of the economy

European standardization situation (“new approach”)

Minimization of testing costs


Harmonization Current Situation � Europe

CEN is taking over ISO and IEC standards resp. using these standards as a basis for European Standards (EN).

Replacement of national standards (DIN, BSI, AFNOR, ...) by ISO/IEC test methods directly or via CEN.

� USA Approach: Own test methods are revised so that they are identical or equivalent to the ISO methods.

Examples: ASTM G3 “Weathering and durability” and ASTM D20 “Plastics” .


Harmonization � Basics of International Standards

Use of metric units

Performance based standards rather than instrument

describing standards

• Note: At present this is only really true for basic standards

Possible consequences from harmonizing National Standards

with International Standards

Change to metric units

Change to performance based standards


ISO-TC´s

� General situation in International Standardization

(ISO) - weathering

� Technical committees (TC´s) in ISO preparing and revising

specifications (examples)

� TC 35 Paints and varnishes Note: Totally there are about

� TC 38 Textiles 50 ISO standards in the field of

� TC 45 Rubbers weathering.

� TC 61 Plastics Only about 20% are really per-

� TC 6 Paper and Board formance based standards !

� TC 21 Fire protection equipment

� TC 22 Road vehicles

� TC 42 Photography

� TC 106 Dentistry

� TC 130 Graphic technology


Weathering Standards International

� ISO 105-B02 : 1994; Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (under revision)

� ISO 105-B06 : 1998; Textiles - Tests for colour fast-ness - Colour fastness and aging to artificial light at high temperatures: Xenon-arc fading lamp test Note: This is the only International Standard especially for testing of "automotive materials (interior)". This standard was not prepared by an "automotive committee" but by the "textile committee".

Note: This situation clearly reflects the missing interest of the automotive industry on uniform global standards.


Important automotive

standards

Testing of automotive interior materials

• DIN 75202 (Revision - status 1996; not yet

published) - Interior materials in motor vehicles;

Determination of colour fastness and aging

behavior to artificial light at high temperature:

xenon arc lamp test

• DIN 75220 : 1992 - Aging of automotive

components in solar simulation units

• JASO M346 : 1993 - Light exposure test method

by xenon-arc lamp for automotive interior parts


Contents of standards

� Important contents of "performance based standards" for accelerated tests in instruments Main objectives

• Acceleration compared to outdoor exposure

• Reproducibility and repeatability of test results Key factors

• Radiation

• Temperature Further factors

• Relative humidity

• wet/dry cycles

• light/dark cycles


Contents of standards Radiation

� Important contents of performance based standards

Definition of "sun radiation" as a "reference spectrum" (normally based on the max. irradiance at the earth surface)

• CIE No.85; table 4 is worldwide accepted as reference today


Contents of Standards Radiation

� Important contents of performance based standards Specification of a "radiation function (UV and visible range)" based on the reference spectrum in wavelength steps with tolerances.

– Filtered xenon radiation is accepted to produce a spectral distribution that is the best simulation of sunlight over UV- and visible wavelength range.

– Caution: The actual ratio between broad band (300 nm - 400 nm) and wide band (300 nm - 800 nm) radiant exposure on the specimens surface depends on the reflectance of the specimens.




Definition of an irradiance level for the purpose of reference

resp. specification of an irradiance level (normally based on

the max. irradiance at the earth surface ).

Description of "Measuring devices (broad band and narrow

band - especially for UV range of radiation)”.

Requirements on "calibration" of measuring devices.

Recommendation resp. specification to conduct tests as a

function of "radiant exposure” rather than test time.



� Measurement of radiation

Irradiance E and radiant exposure H

• Narrow band measurements: 340 nm

420 nm (normally)

• Broad band measurements: 300 nm - 400 nm

• Wide band measurements: 300 nm - 800 nm

Only measurements based on the same wavelength range can

be compared.

Based on a given spectral distribution the E-values can be

calculated by using conversion factors.


Contents of Standards Temperature


The heat efficacy of sun radiation is characterized by sample

surface temperature measurements.

Specification of the maximum sample surface temperature

(partially several values dependent on the purpose of the

test) as Black standard/panel temperatures (BST/BPT).




Recommendation to measure the minimum sample surface

temperature as White standard/panel temperatures (WST).

Description of "Black standard/panel as well as White

standard/panel thermometers”.

• Caution: There are differences in temperatures

indicated by BST (insulated) and BPT

(uninsulated) at given irradiance and chamber

temperature!

Specification of chamber temperature (CHT).




– In most standards only the BST or BPT is specified and

measurement of WST is recommended; in some standards

the BST or BPT and the CHT is specified.

The number of these standards is growing!

Examples:

• AATCC TM 16

• ISO 105-B06

• Automotive Standards



� Sample surface temperature has been experienced to be the most critical factor in weathering tests! Why? Most secondary aging processes following the primary photochemical step depend on sample surface temperature.

It is not practicable to measure and control constant the surface

temperature of individual specimens in instruments.

Therefore in standards the sample surface temperature is only characterized by (a) "reference temperature(s)" - as already

described


QUESTIONS????



Colorfastness to Crocking

� Crocking - A transfer of colorant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or to an adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing

� Although a physical process, the primary evaluation is for appearance (color)

�Wet and dry evaluation typically performed


Crocking Instruments

� Applicable to many textile materials including dye and printed fabrics, carpeting, and automotive interior materials

�Manual (for shorter tests) and automatic models available

� Linear and rotating motion models

� Can be adapted to provide simple abrasion tests for other materials


Colorfastness to Crocking

� AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter Method

� AATCC Test Method 116 - Rotary Vertical

� AATCC Test Method 165 - Carpets

� ISO 105-D02 - Organic Solvents

� ISO 105-X12 - Colorfastness to rubbing

� SAE J861 - Organic trim materials

� ASTM D5053 - Leather


AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)

� Recommended specimen size 5cm by 13cm

�Wet and dry tests are specified

�Mount white test cloth with the weave parallel to the direction of rubbing

� Run test for 10 complete turns

� Evaluate the white test cloth using the Gray Scale for Staining


AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)

� For the wet test:

Establish technique for preparing wet crock cloth squares by weighing a conditioned square, then thoroughly wet out a white testing square in distilled water

The wet pick-up should be 65 ± 5%

Use of a hand wringer is recommended

White cloth dried and conditioned prior to evaluation


AATCC Test Method 116 (Rotary

Vertical Method)

�Method is especially useful for prints where the singling out of areas smaller than possible to test with Method 8 is required

�Wet and dry tests specified

� 20 complete turns specified

� Evaluation performed with the Gray Scale for Staining


AATCC Test Method 165 (Carpets)

� Testing before/after treatments such as shampooing, steam or hot water extraction, or antistatic/antisoil application has been found useful

�Wet and Dry testing specified

� Ten complete turns (one per second) specified

� Evaluate with Gray Scale for Staining


AATCC Crockmeter - CM-1

�Manual unit recommended for shorter tests

� Has cycle counter � Comes standard

with 16 mm finger and 9 newton arm

� For wet and dry tests • Cloth, abrasive paper,

and spring clip supplied


CM-5 Crockmeter

� Automatic unit recommended for long/frequent tests

� Electrically powered

� Count-up timer with automatic shut down

• Cloth, abrasive paper, and spring clip supplied


CM-6 Crockmeter

�Manual unit

� Reciprocating rotary

motion to meet AATCC

Test Method 116

� Can be used for wet

and dry testing


Verification checks are extremely important to avoid incorrect results. Potential problems include:

� Crocking finger may need resurfacing

� Loose clips

� Incorrect mounting

� Loops to wire clips positioned downward

� Metal base warped

� Use Crocking Calibration Cloth!!


Crockmeter Testing

� Non-textile applications Paint scratch and mar

UV curable inks using methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)

Plastic abrasion

Copier toners

Image fastness

• ASTM F1319


Abrasion Resistance

� AATCC Accelerotor® Simulates dry, moist or wet abrasion

Watertight test chamber

Different grade liners

Reference AATCC Test

Method 93


AATCC Accelerotor®

� Fabric rotated within an abrasive lined cylinder

� Fabric subjected to: flexing

rubbing

shock

compression

stretching

other mechanical forces


AATCC Accelerotor®

� Results affected by:

length of time

size and shape of impeller

rotational speed

abrasive liner


AATCC Accelerotor®

� Typical tests run 2-6 minutes

• Special sizes and shapes of rotors are available


Specimen Preparation and

Evaluation

�Method A (Weight Loss) Specimen size determined by weight of fabric

Procedure specifies measurement to ± 0.1%

�Method B (Strength Loss) Special specimen preparation requirements

Procedure specifies ASTM D5034 -- “Test for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)”

�Other Evaluation Methods


Bean Bag Snag Tester

� Reference ASTM Test Method D5362 - Standard Test Method

for Snagging

Resistance of Fabrics

(Bean Bag Test

Method)



� Simulates fabric snagging and picking through a tumbling action

� Provides good end-use simulation



� Applicable to knits and double knits

� Snag and picks result from fabric tumbling against series of rotating pins


Snagging Resistance

� Snag - A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface

� Distortion - General term for a visible defect in the texture of a fabric

� Protrusion - Visible group of fibers (or yarn) that extends above the fabric surface


Snagging Resistance

� Three types of snags identified: snags that have protrusion and no distortion

snags that have distortion and no protrusion

snags that have both distortion and protrusion

� Distortion - Tension on a snagged yarn: changing the size of loops within a knitted fabric

causing breakage within a woven fabric



� Uses bean bags weighing approximately 0.45 kg

� Automatic shut off after 100 revolutions


Snagging Resistance Method

� Laundering/Drycleaning as required

� Specimen preparation Make “socks” from 215mm by 115mm swatches

Sew supplied bean bags in these “socks”

� Typical test runs 100 revolutions

� Specimen evaluation


Snagging Evaluation

�Option A (From ASTM D5362) ICI Photographic Snagging Standards

Rating system of “5” (no snagging) to “1” (very

severe snagging)

�Option B (From ASTM D5362) Points accumulated based on type of snag

Rating system based on total number of points observed


Pilling Resistance

� Common definitions are:

Fuzz - Untangled fiber ends that protrude from the

surface of a yarn or fabric

Pills - Bunches or balls of tangled fibers that are held

to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers


Pilling Resistance

Standards

� ASTM D3512 - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface

Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble

Pilling Tester Method

� DIN 53867

� JIS L1076


Random Tumble Pilling Tester

� Determines resistance to pilling and related surface changes

� Applicable to knitted and woven fabrics

� Clear, lighted viewing chambers


Random Tumble Pilling Tester

� Pills result from random tumble action against a mild abrasive

� Cotton fiber added to initiate pill formation

� Air injection system

�Good correlation to end-use performance


Pilling Resistance Test Method

� Laundering/Drycleaning as required

� Specimens cut to 105mm squares 45° to the warp and fill directions


Pilling or Non-Pilling?



� Hoechst Trevira Tested the Correlation between 2 Pilling Methods With Real Wear

� Random Tumble Pilling Test (DIN 53867)

� Martindale Method (DIN 53865/ISO CD 12945/2)



� Benchmark (Real Wear) Setup

21 fabrics of different origins and

constructions by different weavers

8 Wearers of articles for 6 weeks of different

sizes/wear patterns

Clothing assessed (DIN 53867) and dry-cleaned

every week (5 days)



� Results Martindale showed greatly differing values when

compared to the wear test

RTPT Test showed good correlation to wear test

Wool / Linen 65/35 (290 g/linear m)

123456789

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Before Cleaning

After CleaningP.O.S.

Days

123456789

0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120 Minutes

P.O.S.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000

After

Wear

RTPT

Martindale

Revolutions

Trevira 350/Wool 55/45 (250 g/linear m)

123456789

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Before Cleaning


Days

123456789

0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120 Minutes

P.O.S.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000

After

Wear

RTPT

Martindale

Revolutions

Trevira 350/Viscose 67/33 (360 g/linear m)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Before Cleaning


Days

123456789

0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120 Minutes

P.O.S.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000

After

Wear

RTPT

Martindale

Revolutions


When gluing the edges of pilling specimens to prevent raveling, apply the glue with the edge of a piece of cardboard. Adhesive can be thinned with water.


Universal Wear Tester

�Other names include:

Stoll Quartermaster Wear

Tester

Flex Abrasion Tester

Surface Abrader

CS 22C


Flexing and Abrasion

Resistance

� Common definitions are:

Abrasion - The wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface

• Surface abrasion

• Edge and fold abrasion

• Flex abrasion

Frosting - A change of fabric color caused by localized abrasive wear



� Used to test: Woven, knitted, napped

and pile fabrics

Non-woven and coated

fabrics

Plastic films and rubber

sheeting

Athletic shoe materials



�Other features: Frosting Attachment

Continuous Change

Abradant Head

Edge & Fold Abrasion

Clamp

Electrical Depth Micrometer


Flexing and Abrasion

Resistance Test Methods

� AATCC Test Method 119 (Screen Wire)

� AATCC Test Method 120 (Emery Method)

� ASTM D3885 (Flexing and Abrasion Method)

� ASTM D3886 (Inflated Diaphragm Method)

� FTMS 191-5300 and 5302


Test Method Specifics

(AATCC)

Method 119

� 12.7 cm by 12.7 cm

� 1200 cycles suggested

� Uses stainless steel wire abradant

� Evaluate using Gray Scale

Method 120

� 10.8 cm diameter circles


� Uses inflated rubber diaphragm and abradant

� Evaluate using Gray Scale


Test Method Specifics (ASTM)

Method D3885

� 200 mm by 38 mm


� Uses yoke positioning device

� Evaluate for both appearance and physical changes

Method D3886

� 112 mm diameter circles

� Test to failure or cycle #

� Uses inflated rubber diaphragm and abradant

� Evaluate for both appearance and physical changes


Fabric Streak Analyzer

� Used to determine cause of streaks or uneven dyeing of knitted fabric

� Used by knitters as a Quality Control Device

• No official test method • Recommended by Cotton Inc.


Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Operation)

�Optical grade polystyrene film placed on base plate

� Fabric placed on polystyrene

� Neoprene™ diaphragm placed on fabric

� Cover secures all layers

� Compressed air used to apply pressure on the fabric and polystyrene


Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Operation)

� Heat applied to the base to soften the polystyrene

� Pressurized sample is forced into the softened polystyrene

� Heat turned off and cold water is circulated through the base hardening the polystyrene

� Fabric separated from the polystyrene


Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Evaluation)

� Image in the polystyrene examined for flaw

� If a streak or defect is seen in the polystyrene

problem belongs to the knitter

� If a streak or defect is NOT seen in the polystyrene

problem belongs to the dyer


Fabric sample should extend beyond the gasket to allow air trapped between the fabric and plastic sheet to escape.


Laboratory Wringer

� Provides repeatable method for evenly extracting excess liquids from fabrics

� Used as an accessory to many ISO, AATCC, and ASTM methods


Laboratory Wringer

� Padder used for wetting materials prior to wringing

� Adjustable weights for the top roller

� Safety switches stop motor if rollers forced apart • Neoprene® or Teflon®-

coated rollers available


AATCC Perspiration Tester


Colorfastness to

Perspiration

� Specimens of colored textiles are wet out in simulated perspiration solution, subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature.

� AATCC Test Method 15 -- Perspiration

� AATCC Test Method 107 -- Water


AATCC Perspiration Tester


Colorfastness to

Perspiration

� Applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics

� Also applicable to dyestuffs

� Alkaline test eliminated after studies done in 1974

Some international and special end-use still require

alkaline test


Scorch Tester

� Scorch Tester used for: Colorfastness to Dry Heat

Colorfastness to Pressing

Tensile Loss from Chlorine

Retention


Colorfastness to Heat

� AATCC Test Method 117 -- (Dry heat) Various temperature ranges depending on

requirements and the stability of the fibers

� AATCC Test Method 133 -- (Hot pressing) Dry, damp, and wet pressing methods described

depending on the end use of the textile

Various temperature levels used depending on class

of textile tested


AATCC Test Method 117

� Specimen size not specified

� Testing time is 30 seconds

� Pressure specified is 40 ± 10 g/cm2

� Evaluate specimens for color change using:

Gray Scale for Color Change (Dyed fabrics)

Gray Scale for Staining (Undyed fabrics)


Temperature Levels for


AATCC Level I 149 ± 2C

Level II 163 ± 2C

Level III 177 ± 2C

Level IV 191 ± 2C

Level V 205 ± 2C

Level VI 219 ± 2C


Temperature Levels for


ISO Level I 150 ± 2C

Level II 180 ± 2C

Level III 210 ± 2C



� Dry Pressing -- Dry specimen pressed with heating device

� Damp Pressing -- Dry specimen covered with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with heating device

�Wet Pressing -- Wet specimen covered with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with heating device



� Temperatures specified: 110 ± 2C

150 ± 2C

200 ± 2C

� Table I of this test method identifies safe ironing temperatures for most fabrics



� Specimen size of 12cm by 4cm is recommended

� Yarn or thread, knitted to a fabric of above dimensions, is acceptable

� Dry, damp, and wet pressing all require 15 seconds of testing

� Evaluate using Gray Scale for Color Change


Scorch Tester

� Used for both Test Methods 117 and 133

� Upper plate hinged for sample removal

� Adjustable pressure

� Thermostatic control

� Pyrometer temperature indicator


Fixotest®

� Designed for the European market

� CE approved

�Meets ISO 105 P01, ISO 105 X11, AATCC TM 117 & 133


Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine

Retention

� AATCC Test Method 92 (Single sample method)

� AATCC Test Method 114 (Multiple sample method)



Retention (Single Sample)

� Fabrics treated in sodium hypochlorite solution, rinsed, dried, and pressed between metal plates

� Solution should contain 0.25% available chlorine at a pH of 9.5

� Uses stock solution (such as Clorox) diluted with distilled water




� Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)

� Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in solution, and rinsing a total of six times

� Samples are to be air dried

� Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)



Retention (Multiple Sample)

� Specimens are prepared using an automatic

washing machine and tumble dryer

�Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are

specified in the Test Method

� Specimen and tensile strip size are identical

to the Single Sample Method




� Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)

� Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in solution, and rinsing a total of six times

� Samples are to be air dried

� Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)



Retention (Multiple Sample)

� Specimens are prepared using an automatic

washing machine and tumble dryer

�Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are

specified in the Test Method

� Specimen and tensile strip size are identical

to the Single Sample Method



Retention

� Strips scorched for 30 seconds as shown below:

Heating Plate

Strip specimen

Scorched Area



Retention

� Tensile testing should be performed on unchlorinated, unscorched, and scorched specimens

� Calculate tensile strength and report as a percentage loss


Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption

Test

� Absorbency - the propensity of a material to take in and retain a liquid, usually water, in the pores and interstices of the material

�Water Repellency - The characteristic of a fiber, yarn or fabric to resist wetting


Dynamic Absorption Tester

� Set of specimens placed into tumble jar with distilled water

� 20 minute cycle

� Specimens dried with Lab Wringer

�Weighed to nearest 0.1g



Test

� Specimens cut into five 20.3cm x 20.3cm squares

� Squares cut on 45° bias

� Liquid latex or rubber cement spread on edges to prevent yarns from ravelling



Test

� AATCC Test Method 70

� Test is suited for fabrics to which a finish (designed for water repellency) has been applied

� Subjects fabrics to end use conditions

� Not intended to measure rain penetration Test measures water into (not through) the fabric


QUESTIONS????


Other Laboratory Dyeing -

Laundering Equipment

� Suga - Japanese manufacturer

� AHIBA - Texomat G VI and Polymat

�Mathis - Labomat

� James H. Heal - Gyrowash

� Shirley Development

� Roaches

� Numerous Pacific Rim Companies

New Laundering Technology

�Quickwash Plus Laundering Test for Shrinkage and

Colorfastness

Single wash/rinse/dry cycle in 15

minutes

Correlates within 1% of AATCC

Method 135

Correlates well with ISO 6330

Saves on labor, utilities, materials

and TIME

Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001

New Test Methods

� AATCC TM 187-2000 Dimensional Stability of

Fabrics: Accelerated


Correlation

Quickwash v. 5 cycles AATCC TM 135

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique

Quickwash Test

AATCC TM 135 test 5 cycles

% lengthwise shrinkage % widthwise shrinkage


Quickwash Accessories

�QuickView™ Optical measurement for fabric shrinkage testing

Uses digital camera with microprocessor analysis

No grid placement or alignment required



�QuickCut™ A novel laser guided swatch cutter Easily cuts several fabric layers in one stroke Straight and pinking cutting blades available



�QuickTemp™ Electronic temperature controller for domestic laundry machines used in a laboratory

Control wash and rinse water temperature within 1°°C


Specimen Preparation

Accessories

�QuickPunch™ Tabletop device for stamping out multiple fabric specimens

Cuts precise and accurate specimens quickly and safely

Prepares specimens for variety of textile tests



Accessories

�QuickCircle™ Cut standard 100 cm2 round specimens easily

Precise specimens cut by pressing a button

Blade spins with equal pressure incision



Accessories

�QuickCalc™ Determines fabric yield

Converts standard 100 cm2 round specimen weight to g/m2 or oz/yd2

Features ratio analysis for blended materials



Accessories

�QuickDry™ Dries specimens in 7 to 10 minutes

Tumbling action and warm air circulation eliminates distortion

Smooth specimens for easy measuring




Applications

�Washfastness Tests

� Dry Cleaning Tests

� Efficiency of washing detergents

� Laboratory dyeing


Laundering Tests

� Common definitions: Washfastness - the property of a material, usually an

assigned number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of laundering,

drycleaning, or other means of soil removal


Common Laundering Test

Methods

� AATCC Test Method 61 - Accelerated test for Home and Commercial Laundering

� AATCC Test Method 86 - Drycleaning of Applied Designs and Finishes

� AATCC Test Method 132 - Drycleaning

� AATCC Test Method 151 - Resistance to Soil Redeposition


Common Laundering Test

Methods

� ISO 105 C01 through C05 - Colorfastness to washing tests which between them cover mild to severe washing procedures

� ISO 105 C06 - Colorfastness to domestic and commercial laundry

� ISO 105 D01 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning



� Accelerated test to evaluate colorfastness to laundering

�One 45-minute test closely approximates five hand, home or commercial washings

� Staining effects not as predictable

�Method first developed in 1950



� Abrasive action for acceleration caused by:

Frictional effects of fabric against the container,

Low solution ratio

Impact of steel balls on the fabric

� Several test methods specified for different applications



� Specimen size 5cm by 10cm or 5cm by 15cm depending on test cycle

� Use Multifiber Test Fabric for staining determination

� Test method describes specific preparation procedures for knitted fabrics, piles, and yarns



Test No. 1A -- Hand laundering, Low Temp.

Test No. 2A -- Machine laundering, Low Temp.

Test No. 3A -- Heavy duty cycles, High Temp.

Test No. 4A -- Chlorine test, Low % Solution

Test No. 5A -- Chlorine test, High % Solution



Test No.

Temp

(°°°°C)

Liquid

Volume

%

Detergent Chlorine

No. Steel

Balls

Time

(min.)

1A 40 200 mL 0.37 None 10 45

2A 49 150 mL 0.15 None 50 45

3A 71 50 mL 0.15 None 100 45

4A 71 50 mL 0.15 0.015% 100 45

5A 49 150 mL 0.15 0.027% 50 45


AATCC Launder-Ometer

� Atlas Launder-Ometer accepted formally by AATCC

�Optimum agitation method

� Precise temperature control

� Programmable cycle testing AATCC Launder-Ometer®


AATCC Launder-Ometer®

� Used for washfastness testing up to 93 °C

�Water bath stainless steel construction

�Manually set thermostat

� 20 position stainless steel rotor 20 Position Rotor


AATCC Launder-Ometer®

� Programmable thermostat Multiple step heating and

cooling programs

Storage for 99 programs

Digital temperature display

�Optional pre-heater

�Optional rotor for special 2400 mL container size

PS-5 Preheater Module


Atlas LP2 Launder-Ometer®

� High temperature dyeing up to 150 °C

�Washfastness tester

�Glycerin or water bath

�Microprocessor control

�Multiple container sizes


Other Laboratory Dyeing -


� Linitest+ Laboratory Dyeing and Fastness System Referenced in ISO

Colorfastness to Laundering

Methods and corresponding

national tests

ISO 105 E12 - Fastness to

milling (severe tests)

Compact table top system

Manufactured in Germany


Washfastness Testing

� Industries

Textiles

Dye laboratories

Dye-stuff manufacturers

Producers of detergents


QUESTIONS????


Lightfastness Testing of

Textiles


Colorfastness to Light -


Textile Testing Elements

� Lightfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned

number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of exposure of the

material to sunlight or an artificial light source.”

Loss of color (Fading)

Fiber degradation


Colorfastness to Light -Test

Methods

� AATCC Test Method 16 Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in USA

� ISO 105 B02 Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in Europe

Approximately 60% use Air Cooled / 40% use

Water Cooled

� SAE J1885 A severe test used by US automobile manufacturers



�Option A, D - Carbon-Arc

�Option C - Daylight

�Option E, F - Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc

�Option H, I, J - Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc

Options for each device represent continuous or alternating light/dark cycles


Test Method 16 - Option C

(Daylight)

� Test specimens exposed behind glass 2 mm single strength sheet glass

� Specimens should be at least 75 mm below glass surface

� Different exposure types will give different exposure temperature conditions Open backed - Lower temperatures

(Solid) backed - Higher temperatures


Under Glass Exposure Rack


Static Indirect

Wavelength (nm) SS Window Glass

Herculite (clear) LOF EZ-Kool

Glass Solar Energy Transmittance

0

20

40

60

80

300

310

320

330

340

350

360

370

380

390

400

Laminated


Laboratory Accelerated Tests

Desirable Characteristics:

� Exact match to end-use conditions

� Does not alter degradation mechanisms;

i.e. “correlates” with end-use

� Repeatable and reproducible

� Independent control over stress factors

� Provides “acceleration” over real time


Lightfastness to AATCC 16

� Principles Specimens (and AATCC Blue Wool Standards)are

exposed under specified conditions.

The duration of the exposure is usually determind by a

specified amont of light exposure in AATCC Fading

Units (AFU)

The Lightfastness is evaluated visually by comparison of

the contrasts between exposed and unexposed

protions of the specimens to the steps of the „ AATCC

Gray Scale for Color Change“ or instrumental by Color

measurement.

Lightfastness classification by evaluation versus the

simultaneously exposed AATCC Blue Wool Standards


AATCC Fading Units

�One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the exposure required to produce a color change equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4 Blue Wool

� 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm exposure based on interlaboratory test study

� L4 used for instrument calibration: Fading of L4 equal to step 4 Gray Scale or Delta E

1,7 +- 0,3 in 20 +- 2 hours


Test Method 16 - Options E, F (Water-Cooled Xenon Arc)

Option E

63°C BPT

43°C Dry Bulb

Continuous Light

30% R.H.

Soda Lime Outer Filter

Borosilicate Inner Filter

1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm

Option F

63°C BPT

43°C Dry Bulb

3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark

35% R.H./90% R.H.


Borosilicate Inner Filter

1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm


Filtered Xenon Arc Vs. Sunlight Relative Irradiance (W/m2 per nm)

Wavelength in nanometers


Test Method 16 - Option H (Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)

Option H

60°C BST

32°C Dry Bulb

Continuous Light

30% Relative Humidity

Seven special Borosilicate IR Absorbing Filters

1.25 W/m2 @ 420 nm


Test Method 16 - Options I, J (Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)

Option I

70°C BST

43°C Dry Bulb

Continuous Light

30% R.H.


Quartz Inner Filter

1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm

Option J

70°C BST

43°C Dry Bulb

3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark

35% R.H./90% R.H.


Quartz Inner Filter

1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm


Air-cooled Xenon

� Meets requirements of ISO 105 test methods

� Option for high irradiance (220 W/m2 - 300 to 400 nm)

� Same control features as other high-end xenon arc devices

� Meets requirements of Options H, I, and J

Xenotest® Alpha


Lightfastness to ISO 105

Colourfastness to Artificial Daylight: Xenon

Arc

1994

B 02

Colourfastness to (Natural) Daylight 1994 B 01

Instrumental Assessment of Change in Colour 1996 A 05

Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour 1993 A 02

General Principles 1994 A 01

Title Year Designation


Weatherfastness to ISO 105

Colourfastness to Artificial Weathering:

Xenon Arc

1994 B 04

Colourfastness to Weathering: Outdoor

exposure

1994 B 03

Title Year Designation


ISO Blue Wool Standards

Standard 1 or L2

Standard 2 or L3

Standard 3 or L4

Standard 4 or L5

Standard 5 or L6

Standard 6 or L7

Standard 7 or L8

Standard 8 or L9

First Cover

Second Cover


Procedure and Evaluation to

ISO 105

� Procedure 1 : Inspection of Specimen Expose one specimen together with one set of Blue Wool

Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5

(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed

portions of the specimen

Note the number of the Blue Wool Standard showing the same

contrast

Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale

step 4

Change the cover mask

Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale

step 3

.



ISO 105 � Procedure 2 : Inspection of Blue Wool Standards

Expose several specimens together with one set of Blue Wool Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 (first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed portions of the Blue Wool Standard 3

Inspect specimens and note changes compared to Standards 1 – 3 (prelimanary assessment)

Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 4


Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 6


Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 on Blue Wool Standard 7



ISO 105 � Procedure 3 : checking conformity with a

performance specification Expose the specimens with only 2 Blue Wool Standards: -

the Standard of the requested lightfastness, e.g. 5

- the standard below, e g. 4

Expose until contrasts to Grey Scale Steps 4 and 3 (by

changing cover masks) have been obtained on the standard

of the requested lightfastness


Standard Requirements to ISO

105 B02 - 1994

5 / 6 – 7 / 3 Rel.Humidity: Light Fastness on

Red Control Fabric

45 °C (normal cond.)/ 60 °C low H. / 40 °C high H.

50 °C / 65 °C / 45 °C

Max. Black Panel Temperature

Max. Black Standard Temperature

42 W/m² ( 300 – 400 nm) for instruments using irradiance

control features

Irradiance recommended

Light Filter with a transmission of 90% betwen 380 nm

and 750 nm, falling to 0 % between 310 nm and 320 nm

Filter system

Turning Mode Operation


Instrument Settings

30 – 40 %

should be checked with

Control Fabric

40 – 50 %

should be checked with

Control Fabric

Relative Humidity

(normal conditions)

45 / 50 °C

45 / 50 °C Max. BPT / BST

(normal conditions)

42 W/m²

Power step 2 Irradiance (300-400nm)

Lantern with 7 IR Filters

+ Borosilicate Cylinder

Lantern with 7 IR-Filters+

Borosilicate Cylinder

Filter System

Xenotest Alpha Xenotest 150 S Setting



The answer should be on your desk!


Follow the directions exactly

--Calibration

--Instrument settings

--Lamp Filters


Ask Questions

Resources----

• Atlas Representative

• AATCC, ASTM, etc technical staff

• Your customer

• Your supplier


Other things to examine

� Specimen Thickness

� Specimen Mounting

The irradiance received on the surfaces of an

exposed specimen is inversely proportional to

the square of the distance from the source.


Irradiance Considerations

93,000,000 miles

Specimens exposed at any point (or elevation) on the earth’s surface will not be affected by distance.



� Different size instruments are calibrated to compensate for differences in rack diameter

� Features to improve uniformity

Rotating rack around the light source

Three-tier inclined rack design

Proper lamp calibration



10 in.

9 in.



Applying the inverse square law:

Irradiance = (Distance1)2

(Distance2)2

1.23 = (10)2

(9)2

Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond

the specimen holder will receive 1.23 times the

irradiance reported by the fading device.



18.5 in.

17.5 in.



Applying the inverse square law:

Irradiance = (Distance1)2

(Distance2)2

1.12 = (18.5)2

(17.5)2

Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond

the specimen holder will receive 1.12 times the

irradiance reported by the fading device.


Irradiance - Without Control

Time (hours)

Irra

dia

nce

100 200 500 600


Irradiance With Control

Time or Radiant Exposure (kJ/m2)

Irra

dia

nce

100 200 500 600


Colorfastness to Light - Test

Methods

Other Lightfastness Test Methods � AATCC Test Method 111 - Weather Resistance

111A, C - Carbon Arc (with/without wetting)

111B - Natural Light and Weather (Direct Exposure)

111D - Natural Light and Weather (Behind Glass)

� AATCC Test Method 177 - Elevated Temp. and Humidity

� DIN 75202

� DIN 54004


Direct Weathering

45° South Exposure Rack


Standard Reference Materials

AATCC Blue Wool

� AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard One of a group of dyed wool fabrics distributed by

AATCC for use in determining the amount of light exposure of specimens during lightfastness testing

Various proportions of wool blends with a very

unstable dyestuff

L2 through L9 - Increasing degree of light stability


AATCC Blue Wool

� Differs from the ISO Blue Wool standards

CANNOT be used interchangeably

� Each higher numbered standard is twice as colorfast as the proceeding number

�More uniform and reproducible results when the Blue Wool is backed with white cardboard


AATCC Blue Wool

� Humidity and temperature sensitive

� Can be used as troubleshooting tool for lightfastness equipment for many factors

� Color change in AATCC Blue Wool performed the same as with test textile specimens


AATCC Blue Wool

� Designed for use as a dosimeter for determining exposure

This use is becoming less common with the advent

of accurate radiometers

� L2 and L4 are used almost exclusively today


Radiometric Quantities (Selected) Radiant Energy: Energy passed on as electromagnetic radiation, e.g. heat, radio, light Irradiance: Radiant flux incident per unit area of surface Units = W/m2 Spectral Irradiance: Irradiance measured as a function of wavelength Units = W/m2 . nm

W = Watts s = Seconds m = Meter nm = Nanometer J = Joule


Radiometric Quantities

Radiant Exposure: Time integral of irradiance (Irradiation)

J/m2 = W/m2 . s

kJ/m2 = 1000 J/m2

... To convert a value given in J/m2 to kJ/m2 , you must divide by 1000

kJ/m2 = W/m2 . s 1

1000


� When exposure time is expressed in hours (h)

one must convert to seconds.

Thus the familiar equation:

kJ/m2 = W

m2 • h • 1

1000 • 3600

s

h

kJ/m2 = W/m2 • • h 3.6

Radiometric Quantities


Example

� Use of equation:

kJ/m2 = W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)

To determine duration of a test for specific radiant exposure:

500 kJ/m2 • nm @ 420nm

When operating at an irradiance level of 1.10 W/m2 • nm:

500 kJ/m2 = 1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)

h = 500 kJ/m2

1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 = 126 light hours


AATCC Fading Units

� One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the exposure required to produce a color change equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4 Blue Wool

� 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm exposure based on interlaboratory test study


Calculation of Radiant Exposure

� Visual evaluation of color change of Blue Wool defined to determine (or verify) radiant exposures

�Many companies use spectrophotometer to measure change Spectrophotometers measure color differently than the human eye

Tables that define Step 4 of Grey Scale color change confusing

� Because of confusion, reproducibility may suffer


QUESTIONS????



Evaluation

� We don’t know if the test is right if the answer isn’t understood


AATCC Gray Scale

Designed for visual evaluation of color change or staining.


AATCC Gray Scale

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change Describes the scale and use for visual color

evaluation

Defines Step 4 to be 1.7 ± 0.3 ∆E Color Units

Based on CIE 1976 L*a*b* color scale

∆E = [(∆L*)2 + (∆a*)2 + (∆b*)2 ]½


AATCC Gray Scale

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen States in scope to be an “alternative” to Evaluation

Procedure 1

Defines Step 4 of Gray Scale to be ≥ 1.25 and <2.10

Based on ∆EF which is used to represent the special

gray scale color difference and separate this ∆E from others in normal use.

∆EF = [(∆L*)2 + (∆CF)2 + (∆HF)2 ]½


Color Evaluation of Textiles

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 Instrumental Color Measurement

� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of

a Test Specimen


Color Evaluation - Gray Scale

� Definition of a Gray Scale (from AATCC)

A scale consisting of pairs of standard gray chips,

the pairs representing progressive differences

in color or contrast corresponding to numerical

colorfastness grades.

Rating scale from 5 (no change) to 1(most change)



� Important factors to consider when performing visual color evaluation: Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)

Light Quantity

Viewing Angle

Reporting color change quantitatively and

qualitatively

Experience of observer



� Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)

Illuminant D75 - Overcast northern sky

Illuminant D65 - Average daylight

Illuminant D50 - Color photography applications

Illuminant A - Home/business incandescent

Illuminant F2 - “Cool white” fluorescent



� Light Quantity AATCC Procedure 1 - Requires at least 538 lux (50

lumens/ft2 or footcandles)

ASTM D1729

• 1080 to 1340 lux (critical evaluation)

• 810 to 1880 lux (general evaluation)

� Large variations in output occur depending on

the distance from the light source.



� Viewing Angle and Conditions Incident light upon the surface - 45° ± 5°

Observer viewing angle - 90° ± 5°

Sample plane

45°

Observer line

of sight

Light Source

90°



�Other factors: Light source should be semi-directional to view

specimen texture

Surrounding area should be neutral in color

Gloss of surrounding area should be low

Gray scale and lighting apparatus should be

checked and maintained frequently



� Reporting Change in lightness - Numerical grade

Change in hue - Bluer, yellower, redder, etc.

Change in chroma - Change in saturation of color

�Metamerism - color match under a specified light source but differing spectral curves



Experience and training for gray scale

evaluation is extremely important because of

rating subjectivity

ASTM D1499 identifies several tests for color

change acuity:

Color Blindness Test (Ishihara)

Color Rule Test

Farnsworth-Munsell 100

Hue Test

Triangle Test

HVC (Hue, Value, and

Chroma) Color Vision Skill

Test


Staining Evaluation - Gray

Scale

� Same basic evaluation techniques and parameters

� Compared to “gray” scale using a nominally white chip as the comparison

Note: The amount of color difference, based on Table I of

Procedure 1 and 2, is different for each scale.


Color Evaluation Tools

� Atlas Equipment Color-Chex

TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System

Variolux

�Other manufacturers


Color-Chex™

� Used in several industries other than textiles

� All specified light sources

� Designed to meet specific viewing conditions

• Fits on desktop


Variolux

� Used in several industries other than textiles

� Large viewing area � Large opening for

large samples � Light sources have

separate hour counter


TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System

� Used in office or laboratory environments

�Overhead lighting system

� Illuminant D65 light source

� Produces controlled reproducible systems


Color Evaluation - Instrumental

�Geometry Diffuse (sphere) or 0/45

� Illuminant Same light sources available as visual methods

� Color Scale 1976 CIE L* a* b*

Calculating and reporting color change


Color Evaluation

Although instrumental color evaluation provides more repeatable, precise data, it is usually the

visual color evaluation that is used as the determining factor whether a material “passes

or fails” any given colorfastness test.


Multifiber Test Fabrics

� Used to determine staining effects (as a result of tests) on several types of common fabric

� Referenced in laundering, perspiration, and other test methods

� Typical use is to sew test material onto Multifiber


Multifiber Test Fabrics

�Multifiber No. 1 and FB contain bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon, and wool (0.8 cm wide bands)

�Multifiber No. 10, 10A, FA, and FAA contain bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and wool


QUESTIONS????



� Lightfastness

�Washfastness

� Color Transfer

� Surface Appearance

� Flammability



� Lightfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned

number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of exposure of the material

to sunlight or an artificial light source.”

Loss of color (Fading)

Fiber degradation



�Washfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned number,

depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of washing or laundering processes.”

Color Transfer

Shrinkage

Fiber degradation

Loss of Color (Fading)



� Color Transfer - Rubbing & Heat Crocking

Perspiration

Hot Pressing

� Surface Appearance Pilling

Edge and Surface Abrasion

Fabric Streaking

Color Appearance under Light



� Flammability

Ignition

Flame Spread

Heat Release (before flashover)

Smoke, Toxicity (wall coverings, upholstery, etc.)


Flammability Testing

� Common definition: Flammability is those characteristics of a

material that pertain to its relative ease to ignite and relative ability to sustain

combustion.


Flammability Testing

�Governed by Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

Apparel: 16 CFR Part 1610

Children’s

Sleepwear: 16 CFR Parts 1615

and 1616


AFC 45°°°° Flame Chamber

� Used for apparel textiles • Plain surfaces

• Raised fiber surfaces

� Also meets ASTM D 1230



� Specimen positioned at 45º angle

� 1 second flame impingement

� Test stops when stop cord breaks or specimen self-extinguishes



� Brushing device for raised fiber surfaces


VFC Vertical Flame Chamber

� Specimens suspended vertically

� Flame applied for 12 seconds

� Char length measured

• VFC with Children’s Sleepwear Burner


VFC Vertical Flame Chamber

� For testing children’s sleepwear

� Also used for other textiles, camping tentage, foam

� Also meets ASTM D 6413 and California TB-117 • VFC with ASTM

burner


QUESTIONS????


Documents

Textile Testing Quality Control Path to the Customer’s Heartlibvolume8.xyz/.../determinationofstiffnesspresentation2.pdf · B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading