High Clearance Vehicle Required to Drive Beyond Mine Boulders!

Brid

al V

eil C

reek

Mine Building

Boulder

Bridal VeilFalls

Main Wall

Umbrella Wall

Last Light Wall

Mine Boulders

Fallen Arches

N

Park

Park

Mine

PipelineAjax

Mountain

The Good Book

Pandora Wall

Telluride East

Ingram Creek

Marshall Creek

IngramFalls

County Rdto Telluride

FamilyValues

StreakedWall

RoadClosed

Co

un

ty R

oad

(Dir

t)

15

TELLURIDE EAST

Rock Type: Telluride Conglomerate

Height: 70’ to 300’

Climbing Style: Sport

Gear Suggestions: 12 quickdraws, slings and a 60m rope

Season: Year-round, selected days in winter

Land Status: U.S.F.S.

Restrictions: No camping

Approach Time: 40 minutes to 1 hour. Longer if you are heading to the western most routes.

Pandora Wall

Park in the pull-off just before the entrance to the old mine road. Hike up a drainage to an abandoned mine road, walk along this road for about 3 or 4 minutes. Head up a steep trail until you meet another mine road (still in use). Hike up this road until you see an old wooden tower. Head past this tower to a clearing. Go to its northwest corner and follow the seasonal drainage and trail to the base of the cliff.

San Miguel River

Mine Building

N Pandora Wall

Pandora Map

Park

Town ofTelluride

16Telluride East

Pandora WestPandoraEast

Pandora East

1. The Candy Man 5.10, bolts to anchor. FA: DJ, CF.2. Do Or Do Not 5.11, a fun arete! FA: DJ, CF.3. *Ra 5.9, a fun three pitch route. FA: DJ, JuH.4. **Explode On Site 5.11, a thin hard face. FA: DJ, PW.5. *Rolling Thunder 5.11, another classic arete climb. FA: CF, DJ.

123

45

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17 Telluride East

Pandora West

6. Micronauts 5.9, climb bolts to anchor. FA: DJ, EW.7. Winter Time 5.9, two pitches, bolts to anchors. FA: DJ.

BlackStreak

90'

67

To PandoraEast

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Camouflaging bolts and hangers helps keep them out of sight and out of mind!

18

To Pandora East

Telluride East

Rock Type: Telluride Conglomerate / Volcanic Sediment

Height: 580’

Climbing Style: Traditional / alpine-rock

Gear Suggestions: Good range of gear to wide hands, quickdraws/slings and a 70m rope. A 60m will work, but a 70m is recommended..

Season: Spring, summer, fall

Land Status: U.S.F.S.

Restrictions: No camping

Approach Time: 40 minutes to 1 hour

The Good Book

Park in the pull-off just before the entrance to the abandond mine road. Hike up the drainage to an abandoned mine road, walk along this road for about 3 or 4 minutes. Head up a steep trail, cross the creek and continue hiking up the road until you are under the large corner. Bushwack up to the base of the route.

Town ofTelluride

San Miguel River

Mine Building

N The Good Book

Good Book Map

Park

19 Telluride East

This route can be seen from town. It is the long corner down and to the left of Ajax Peak.

The rock on this route is questionable. Loose rock will come down when you pull your ropes from the rappels. A helmet is recommended. The anchors were placed in somewhat protected locations.

FA: Chris Logan and Kevin Dunkak explored this route many years ago. In the late 80s, Steve Johnson and Kevin made an attempt which ended about 350’ up on a ledge They drilled a bolt and hammered in a pin, leav-ing a webbing anchor as their high point.

In October 2003, the route was rope soloed 580’ to the top by Damon Johnston.

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Ridge

Gully

x

Chimney

80'

90'

102'

100'

100'

100'

x

OW

20Telluride East

The Good Book5.9R (loose)

Ajax Peak

Rock Type: Telluride Conglomerate

Height: 80’ to 250’

Climbing Style: Sport

Gear Suggestions: 7 to 16 quickdraws/slings and a 60m rope. The Whip-ping Post (5.11c) requires 2x60m ropes to rappel off Season: Spring, summer, fall

Land Status: U.S.F.S.

Restrictions: None

Approach Time: 15 minutes

The Pipeline Wall

Drive 1.5 miles east of Telluride where the pavement ends. Continue east through the mine entrance and up the dirt road (stay on the road). Pass the mine boulders, and head up the switchbacks. Pass Ingram Creek. The road will head south for about a half mile then will switchback south at the large boulder (with cable on top). Two more switchbacks will bring you to a pull-out (park here). Walk to the base of the cliffs (10 to 15 minutes).

21

Mine

Park

Pipeline Wall

Telluride East

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12

3

4

1. ***Black & Tan 5.10+, climb a face past 10 bolts to an anchor. FA: BE, PE 2001.2. *Shaggy Donkey 5.hard, climb the bolted face to an anchor. 3. Project, climb the right-facing corner up to an anchor.4. **Dangler 5.10-, two pitches. Pitch 1: 8 bolts to an anchor (5.8 ). Pitch 2: up through an overhang and up a face past 10 bolts to an anchor. A new anchor was added halfway up the second pitch to eliminate the need for a second rope. FA: BE, PE 2001.

Routes Listed From Approach (right to left)

22

Bridal Veil CreekBoulder

Bridal VeilFalls

N

Park

MinePipeline Wall

Pipeline Wall Map

To Mine

Mine Boulders

IngramFalls

Ingram Creek

Telluride East

xx xx

5

5. Dolittle Does Something 5.11+, 9 bolt to an anchor. FA: BE, PE 2001.

6. ***High Motivation 5.10, climb a face past bolts to an anchor. FA: SeS.7. Dreams Of Ambition 5.10+, climb a hard face past bolts. FA: SeS, SM.8. **Can’t Touch This 5.11-, two pitches. Pitch 1: a 5.9 face past 7 bolts. Pitch 2: up and right of a overhang, past 8 bolts. FA: BE, PE.9. *Rock Cobbler 5.7, bolts to anchor. FA: SeS, MF.10. ***Skylight Arete 5.8, three pitches. Pitch 1: a face past 10 bolts. Pitch 2:more face climbing past 7 bolts. Pitch 3: up and left past 12 bolts. Rap down Ame’s Way with one 60m rope.Original Route 5.9, two pitches. This was the first route climbed on this wall and is located between routes 9 and 10. This gear route climbs a crack and eventually merges with the large corner and continues to the top. FA: AP, DaB, DR late 80s.11. **Ame’s Way 5.7. three pitches. Pitch 1: a face just to the right of the large corner, 7 bolts. Pitch 2: continues up the face past 7 bolts. Pitch 3: heads up to the top of the corner, past 7 bolts. FA: BE 2001.12. ***Whipping Post 5.11+, climb the long face passing 12 bolts. You need two ropes to rap off this route. FA: PE and friends 2001.13. **Whip Or Will 5.11-, climb face past 9 bolts to an anchor. FA: BE, AmP 2001.

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678

1011

12

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13 9

23 Telluride East

13. *Crystal Cruise 5.8, climb a face past 6 bolts. FA: BE, PE 2001.14. *Crystal Squeeze 5.9, climb past 7 bolts. FA: BE, PE 2001.15. ***Rocksteady 5.10+, climb the thin face past 8 bolts. FA: BE, PE 2001.16. *Real Tomato Ketchup 5.10+. FA: SeS, CAb.17. ***Contortionist 5.10+, a fun climb past 8 bolts. FA: PE, BE 2001.18. **Shark Skin Leisure Suit 5.11+, a killer route past 10 bolts. FA: PE, BE 2001.19. *Pong 5.10+ PG13, end of the road. 10 bolts. FA: WR, BE 2001.20. Ping 5.10+, end of the road. Fun bolted route. FA: BE and friends 2005.

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1314

131415

16

1516171920

1618

17

18

24Telluride East

Rock Type: Telluride Conglomerate

Height: 60’ to 400’

Climbing Style: Sport

Gear Suggestions: 7 to 24 quickdraws/slings and a 60m rope. Most routes require 12 quick-draws—bring a few extra. One rappel at the umbrella area requires two 60m ropes. Season: Spring, summer, fall

Land Status: U.S.F.S.

Restrictions: DO NOT PARK in front of the large boulder that has the cable transport system on it. Park below or above this boulder

Approach Time: 20 to 45 minutes

The Falls Walls

Family ValuesStreaked WallMain Wall

Umbrella Area

25 Telluride East

The Falls Walls offer excellent climbing in one of Colorado’s most spectacular settings. This area has it all, from four-pitch 5.7 to single-pitch 5.13.

Take the trail to the right of the large boulder with the cable transport system on top and hike south. There may be a bridge that crosses the creek. Be prepared to ford the creek if a bridge does not exist. Continue up the slope. You will reach a junction in the trail; left will take you to the Streaked Wall and right will take you to Family Values, the Main Wall and the Umbrella Area. It takes about 15 to 20 min-utes to hike to the Main Wall.

The first routes in this area were established in the late1980s. The second wave of new routes began in the late 1990s and continued through the early 2000s.

Andy Sawyer at the Falls Walls

Boulder

Bridal VeilFalls

Main Wall Streaked WallFamily ValuesUmbrella Wall

Fallen Arches

NPark Park

Falls Walls Map

26Telluride East

Stre

aked

Wal

l

Trai

l To

Mai

n W

all A

rea

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xxxxx

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5.12

+5.

13-

12

34

5

67

89

10

1112

1314

15

16 17

1819

2021

27

Stre

aked

Wal

l

Telluride East

Chul

Lee

on

Hyd

ropo

wer

(5.1

2+)

1. H

ooki

ng L

esso

ns 5

.11+

, bol

ts.

FA: N

M, A

nS.

2. R

enee

’s Te

st P

iece

5.1

0, b

olts

. FA

: RS,

NM

.3.

*Su

perf

und

Site

5.1

1+,

stee

p lin

e of

bol

ts.

FA: C

F, TO

.4.

*Fo

ol’s

Gol

d 5.

12-,

anot

her c

lass

ic s

teep

pitc

h. F

A: N

M, C

F.5.

*El

dora

do 5

.11+

, run

out i

n th

e be

ginn

ing.

FA

: TO

, CF.

6. *

*Gra

y M

atte

r 5.

11, v

ery

good

rou

te w

hich

can

be

topr

oped

fro

m

the

anch

ors

on th

e Ca

lifor

nia

Rout

e. F

A: C

F.7.

**C

alifo

rnia

Rou

te 5

.10-

, a c

lass

ic! F

A: T

M.

8. *

Just

Say

No

to S

hwag

5.1

0+, t

ricky

sta

rt.

FA: T

O, C

F.9.

**T

he N

omad

5.1

1-, a

fun

face

. M

any

bolts

. FA

: CA

, KT.

10. Z

ero

Deg

rees

Kel

vin

5.10

. FA

: DJ,

CF.

11. Z

ero

Deg

rees

Kel

vin

Dire

ct 5

.11,

tric

ky b

egin

ning

. FA

: DJ,

CF.

12. *

The

Whi

te B

elly

5.1

1, th

ree

pitc

hes.

All

bolts

. A

long

rout

e. F

A:

CF.

Upp

er p

itche

s: N

M.

13. *

Kille

r Wha

le 5

.10+

. FA

: CF.

14. *

*Tod

y Tr

ain

5.11

+, p

ull a

n ov

erha

ng th

en u

p a

stee

p w

all.

FA

: NM

.15

. *G

ato

Neg

ro 5

.12-

, thr

ough

a ro

of, u

p a

stee

p w

all.

FA:

CF, D

J.16

. **G

rung

ing

for S

lope

rs 5

.13-

, a s

teep

ove

rhan

ging

wal

l. FA

: NM

.17

. **

*Hyd

ropo

wer

5.1

2+,

clim

b th

e pr

omin

ent

over

hang

ing

gray

st

reak

in o

ne lo

ng p

itch

or tw

o sh

orte

r one

s. F

A: N

M, C

F, RS

.18

. The

Zit

5.7,

a s

hort

clim

b pa

st th

ree

bolts

. FA

: CF.

19. T

suna

mi 5

.11+

, tw

o pi

tche

s. Bo

lts to

an

anch

or.

20. T

hing

One

5.1

1+, s

hort

and

ste

ep.

FA: C

F, D

J.21

. *Th

ing

Two

5.12

, sho

rt a

nd s

teep

er.

FA: C

F, D

J.

28Telluride East

22. ***Family Values 5.7, a scenic, four-pitch buttress climb (can be done in 2 long pitches). Gear: quickdraws and a 60m rope. Rap the route or rap Drug Free Zone and scramble down (exposed 3rd class). FA: DJ, CF 2000.23. Drug Free Zone 5.8, bolts to an anchor. FA: DJ, CF 2000.24. Safe Sex 5.8, bolts to an anchor. FA: DJ, CF 2000.

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x

x

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x5.2

5.6

5.1

Big G

ully

3rd Class

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x

x

x

Main Wall

5.7

Family Values

22

23

24

xx

3rd Class

100'

100'

100'

100'

Short Rappel

29

Family Values

Telluride East

The Wild Wild West

40 MINUTES TO 1.5 HOURS FROM TELLURIDE

A Rock Climber’s Guide To Over 500 Routes

Extend Your Season • October through April

SPORT BOULDERING TRAD

WWW.MOUNTAINWORLDMEDIA.COM

New Climbing Guide to Desert Climbing in Southwest

Colorado

Tric

kle

Do

wn

Wal

l (a.

k.a.

Mai

n W

all)

-Eas

t

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+

xxxx

5.9

+ x

x25

2627

2829

30

3132

3334

3536

37

50'

80'

100'

90'

100'

x x

80'

90'

x

35 v

31

Mai

n W

all (

aka

Tric

kle

Dow

n W

all)

- Eas

t

Telluride East

25. *

Pow

er G

rid 5

.9, a

fun

thre

e-pi

tch

rout

e w

ith th

e cr

ux ri

ght

off t

he g

roun

d; b

olts

to

an a

ncho

r. Be

war

e of

loos

e st

ones

on

top

ledg

e. F

A: D

J, BM

.26

. Jul

ie’s

Cher

ry 5

.8, b

olts

to a

n an

chor

. FA

: DJ,

JuH

.27

. Dar

win

’s Ri

b 5.

8, fu

n ro

ute!

Bol

ts to

anc

hor.

FA

: DJ,

JuH

.28

. Mad

Dog

5.8

, bol

ts to

an

anch

or.

FA: D

J, Ju

H.

29. P

ertu

rbat

ion

Theo

ry 5

.9.

Bolts

to

anch

or.

FA: D

J, CF

, JuH

.30

. *N

o KL

A 5

.10,

clim

b pa

st b

olts

to a

ncho

r. F

A: C

F, CA

.31

. **H

ow’s

My

Driv

ing

5.9,

nic

e ro

ute!

FA

: CA

, CF.

32. *

Empt

y Po

cket

s 5.

10-,

kille

r cl

imbi

ng p

ast

bolts

to

an a

n-ch

or.

FA: C

F, SJ

.33

. Bet

a D

ecay

5.1

0, b

olts

to a

ncho

r. F

A: D

J, BM

.34

. *Kn

ob In

My

Pock

et 5

.10,

ver

y fu

n! B

olts

to a

ncho

r.

FA: C

F, M

K.35

. *C

ryst

alop

olis

5.1

0 PG

13,

star

ts i

n a

seam

pro

tect

ed b

y th

in g

ear a

nd th

en m

oves

up

and

right

thro

ugh

bolts

. FA

: CF,

SJ.

35v.

**C

ryst

al G

ail 5

.11,

is a

var

iatio

n th

at b

egin

s to

the

right

of

the

seam

on

a bu

ttre

ss p

rote

cted

by

bolts

and

con

tinue

s up

and

left

join

ing

Crys

talo

polis

. FA

: CF,

MK.

36.

**Co

mpa

ssio

nate

Con

serv

ativ

e 5.

10+,

cla

ssic

rou

te,

clim

b pa

st b

olts

, thr

ough

ste

ep c

rux,

up

to a

n an

chor

. FA

: CF,D

J.37

. **M

r. Sm

arty

Pan

ts 5

.10+

, tw

o pi

tche

s. P

itch

1: 5

.9.

Pitc

h 2:

th

e cr

ux is

pul

ling

the

over

hang

. Bol

ts to

an

anch

or.

FA: C

B, C

F. Se

cond

pitc

h: D

J, CF

.

32Telluride East

38. *Oblivion 5.10+, bolts to an anchor. FA: CA, BH.39: **Billy’s Harem 5.10+, one of the best routes on the wall. FA: DJ, Spring.40. *Yank My Chain 5.9, short. 3 bolts and thin gear to the anchor. FA: CF, TH. 41. *Harvest 5.11-, two pitches. Pitch 1: 4 bolts to an anchor, 5.10. Pitch two is a bit harder, continuing up and staying just left of the arete to anchors, 5.11a. FA: CF. Second pitch: NM, CF.42. **Heart of Gold 5.11+, a high quality two pitcher, bolts to anchors. Pitch 2: 5.10+. FA: CF, JS. Second pitch: CA, KT.43. **Trickle Down Theory 5.11, climb past bolts to an anchor. FA: CF, MK.44. **Mother’s Little Helper 5.11, bolts to an anchor. FA: CA, KT, JO, CF.45. **Lobotomy 5.12-, brilliant climb! Bolts to an anchor. FA: CA, KT.46. **Shock Theory 5.11+, bolts to anchor. FA: JO, CA.47. NOT RECOMMENDED! 5.9X—Rock fall here is severe! FA: DJ, SS.

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x

xx

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x

x x

x

x

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xx

x

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x

x

x

x

xxx

x

x

x

x

x

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xxx

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x

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x

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Lots of Rock Fall

200'

To Umbrella Area

x

x

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x

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x

3839

40

4142 43 44 45 46 47

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x

41

42

5.10 Varx

33

Main Wall (aka Trickle Down Wall) - West

Telluride East

Umbrella Area

The Umbrella Area has many high quality routes. Many of these are multi-pitch. West of the umbrella area are more walls offering new route potential. Use good judgement when placing fixed gear and anchors. The rock above the conglomerate is not solid and may not offer sound anchorage for fixed protection. FA: BE, PE, JB and others as marked.

Jared Ogden established two new routes that are not included on the topo:

Jokers Wild 5.12+, can be found on the arete just to the immediate right of High Lonesome. This route continues up the arete and ends at the third anchor of High Lonesome. No information on gear is known at this time.

Powerhouse 5.13-, four pitches, begins just left of Be Your Own Bosch. Pitch1: 5.11R, gear to a bolted belay under a huge crack in the roof. Pitch 2: 5.12, 6 bolts and gear to the 4th anchor of High Lonesome. Pitch 3: 5.13-, 4 bolts and gear to a bolted anchor above the huge roof. Pitch 4: 5.9R, traverse up and right to High Lonesome’s top anchor.

Main Wall

UmbrellaArea

Fallen Arch Boulders

34Telluride East

To M

ain

Wal

l Are

axx

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x65

'

70'

200'

165'

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x x

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5'

xx

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xx x x x

xx

x x x x x x

75'

75'

4850

49

49

49

5152

5354

5657

5859

50

x

5549

x

Um

brel

la A

rea

35 Telluride East

48. S

win

g Yo

ur P

artn

er 5

.10,

bol

ts to

anc

hor.

49

. **

*Hig

h Lo

neso

me

5.11

+, 5

pitc

hes

that

ta

ke y

ou t

o th

e hi

ghes

t po

int

just

abo

ve t

he

larg

e ov

erha

ng (3

50’).

The

firs

t fou

r pitc

hes a

re

all 5

.10.

FA

: BE,

PE.

50.

*Rid

ers

On

The

Stor

m 5

.10+

, a f

un r

oute

th

at g

oes

up t

he b

ig c

orne

r th

at d

efine

s th

e um

brel

la a

nd l

arge

ove

rhan

gs.

Brin

g m

ostly

ge

ar f

or w

ide

hand

s an

d so

me

thin

gea

r (n

o bo

lts).

51. M

r. M

ojo

Risi

n 5.

11+,

bol

ts to

an

anch

or.

52.

Shel

ter

From

The

Sto

rm 5

.10-

, bol

ts to

an

anch

or.

53. S

mac

k’m

5.9

+, b

olts

to a

n an

chor

. 54

. *H

yper

spac

e 5.

11, t

wo

pitc

hes.

Shar

es th

e up

per a

ncho

r with

Rid

ers O

n Th

e St

orm

. 55

. N

ahor

amaz

da 5

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