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The peak of the fall season is fast approaching and with it the

attendant joys of crisp, clear weather and the incomparable display

of foliage that adorns the Northeast. Along with this there are the

pleasures of the season produced by local farms throughout the

tri-state area of New Jersey, New York and Connecticut. Whether

you’re an urban ex-pat looking to escape the concrete con" nes of

Manhattan for an afternoon, or a suburban native out for the evening,

there is no better place to enjoy both these aspects of the sere and

piquant season than Tarry Lodge.

For over one hundred years Tarry Lodge has been the social hub

and local nexus for the waterfront community of Port Chester, N.Y.

Its long and colorful past includes incarnations as a prohibition-era

speakeasy and later a legal, if slightly unsavory, dive bar. The second

half of the last century saw it thrive as a family Italian restaurant

famous for its pan pizzas. It has always provided a safe and inviting

haven for travelers and locals alike. The current edition was opened

in the Fall of 2008 by Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Chef Andy Nusser

and General Manager Nancy Selzer.

Andy Nusser has been working with Batali since 1995 when he started

cooking at Pó in Greenwich Village, Mario’s " rst restaurant. From there

he went on to become Executive Chef at their newly opened Babbo in

1998, where he helped the restaurant earn three stars from The New

York Times and the title of Best New Restaurant from the James Beard

Foundation. Nancy Selzer began her long-standing relationship with

Mario and Joe " rst as a server at Babbo and then Service Director. In

2003, Andy, Nancy, Mario and Joe combined talents to create their

Spanish themed Casa Mono and Bar Jamón. Their efforts resulted in

packed rooms, rave reviews and a Michelin star.

Today’s Tarry Lodge retains the comfort and warmth of its namesake,

The 100 year old Tarry Lodge in Port Chester, NY,

was a very different proposition for kings of the city Mario and Joe.

With Chef Andy Nusser and management whiz Nancy Selzer, they aced it.

Article by John Moore

but adds the subtly nuanced interpretations of contemporary Italian

cuisine that have become the hallmark for all the B&B restaurants. For

the current generation of diners that has expectations well beyond the

spaghetti and meatball fare of their parents, the restaurant offers a true

Italian trattoria experience, combining casual atmosphere and classic

decor with an exceptional wine list and superb food.

The restaurant also offers several rooms for more formal dining

including a recessed mezzanine with a view of the congenial

commotion below. There patrons can enjoy such classic dishes as

Osso Buco alla Milanese with Pumpkin Fregula, Orecchiette with

Fennel Sausage and Rapini, Vitello Tonnato, or perhaps a lightly

charred and delicious Neapolitan style Pizza Margherita from the

wood-burning oven. And Tarry Lodge also has a roof-top Terrazzo

where diners can enjoy the temperate pleasures of the Westchester

autumn while drinking from the extensive, all-Italian wine list.

Like all of Joe and Mario’s Certi" ed Green restaurants, Tarry Lodge

strives to employ local sourcing of its produce and meats along with

sustainable practices whenever possible. Andy uses vegetables and

game from a variety of local farms and the Green Market at Union

Square. This fall you can look forward to celery root, mushrooms,

butternut squash, cauli$ ower and pumpkin from purveyors such as

Healthway Farms, Gorzynski Ornery Farm, Mountain Sweet Berry

Farm and Ryder Farm Cottage Industries.

The perfect convergence of these seasonal, farm-fresh ingredients

and epicurean expertise is one of Tarry Lodge’s weekly specials: Duck

Braciole with Pancetta and White Runners. Andy selects the ducks from

Rick Bishop at the Hudson Valley Duck Farm, which produces heritage

breed ducks in Sullivan County, N.Y. and he gets the black Kale, or

Cavalo Nero, from Paffenroth Gardens in nearby Orange County.

Photography By Kelly Campbell

the departure

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RECIPE

ROASTED YOUNG LAMB

WITH UMBRIAN SUMMER TRUFFLES,

SWISS CHARD AND CECI RAGU

Top left: Osso Buco

alla Milanese.

Top right: Tarry

Sundae. Above: The

lively bar scene

Bottom:

Guanciale Pizza with

Black Truffl es and

Sunny Side Egg.

Opposite page:

Duck braciola – get

cooking!

DUCK BRACIOLE WITH PANCETTAAND WHITE RUNNERS

TO PREPARE THE DUCK

Zest of 4 oranges

2 cups bread crumbs, toasted

12 garlic cloves chopped

1 cup parsley, chopped

1 cup pine nuts, toasted

1 cup pecorino, grated

½ cup olive oil

6 duck legs, con# t, meat pulled from

the bone and diced.

18 duck legs, fresh, boned

1) Combine all ingredients

2) Lay the boned duck legs skin side down and season.

3) Divide the stuf# ng mixture among the legs.

4) Fold the meat around the mixture and tie with

butcher’s twine.

5) Place the rolls $ ap side down in a roasting pan.

Season the skin side.

6) Roast for 30 minutes at 450

7) Cool overnight. Remove string and wrap in plastic

WHITE RUNNERS WITH PANCETTA

4 pounds white runner beans

1 pound prosciutto, diced

1 pound chorizo, diced

1 pound pancetta, diced

1 cup duck fat

20 cloves garlic, smashed

6 onions, diced

4 carrots , diced

1 bottle white wine

4 qt. chicken stock

4 qt. tomato roe

1) Soak the beans overnight

2) Heat the duck fat in a large pot

3) Add the pancetta cook for 10 minutes

4) Add the chorizo cook for 5 minutes

5) Add the prosciutto cook for 5 minutes

6) Add the onions cook for 5 minutes

7) Add the carrots and garlic cook for 5 minutes

8) Add the beans

9) Add the tomato

10) Add the chicken stock

11) Let simmer and cook until beans are tender 1 ½ hours.

Serve with the braciole on a bed of cavalo nero as a

deep entrée plate of beans

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