Sustainable Gardening in Corangamite...how best to integrate safe habitat for wildlife. Habitat for birds Having a wide variety of plants is the best way to attract a range of birds,

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Your easy guide to sustainable gardening in Corangamite

Produced by Impact Environmental Consulting Pty Ltd

For contribution of plant photos thanks to Karen

O'keefe (Lismore Land Protection Group) and Kevin

Sparrow (Society for Growing Australian Plants).

Printed on 100% recycled paper.

Disclaimer: This publication may be of assistance to

you but the Corangamite Shire Council and its

employees do not guarantee that this publication is

without flaw of any kind, omission or is wholly

appropriate for your purposes and therefore disclaims

all liability for any error, loss, omission or other

consequences which may arise from you relying on

information in this publication.

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!

The Sustainable Gardening Guide is divided into

sections covering a wide range of issues. The

following tips will direct you to the right place to

find out more:

1. Choose local Australian plants - better adapted

to local conditions and pests, more on page 27

2. Add mulch - reduces evaporation of water, more

on page 16

3. Compost your food scraps and garden waste -

reduces waste disposal by 50%, more on page 13

4. Capture rainwater and reuse - saves water and

reduces water bills, more on page 17

5. Water plants less often but deeply - encourages

deeper root growth, more on page 16

6. Provide water, shelter and a range of foods for

native wildlife, more on page 8

7. Replace unused lawn areas with native garden,

vegetable gardens or porous low-maintenance

surfaces, more on page 20

8. Water plants only in the morning and evening -

reduces evaporation, more on page 17

9. Grow your own food - more nutritious and saves

on grocery costs, more on page 11

10. Install a drip irrigation system - direct water

where it is really needed, more on page 16

Top ten tips for sustainable gardening

Your easy guide to sustainable gardening in Corangamite

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Introduction to sustainable gardening

...What is sustainable gardening

...The benefits of sustainable gardening

Garden design and planning

...Key elements of a sustainable garden

...Creating a new sustainable garden

...Transforming an existing garden

Gardening to provide habitat

...What is habitat gardening

...Attracting and maintaining wildlife

...Creating a garden pond

Growing your own food

...The benefits of fruit, vegetable and herb gardening

...‘No-dig’ gardening

...Raised garden beds

...Growing food in pots

Composting and worm farming

...Introduction to composting

...Making and using compost

...Worm farming

Saving water in your garden

...How and why to save water

...Rainwater tanks

...Greywater systems

Soil solutions for native plants

...Preparing and caring for soil

Lawns and alternatives

...Alternatives to lawns

...Managing lawns

Managing weeds

...Garden escapees

...Avoiding the spread of weeds

Weeds in Corangamite

Managing pests

Avoiding and reducing chemicals

Selecting the right plants

...Tips for choosing plants

...Key to the plant lists

Corangamite Shire local plant list

Australian native plant list

More information

Contents

...6

...7

...8

...11

...13

...16

...19

...20

...21

...22

...25

...26

...27

...28

...36

...39

6 | Your easy guide to sustainable gardening in Corangamite

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A sustainable garden is one which is cost effective,

maintains and enhances the natural environment,

and is good for the health and wellbeing of you, your

family and your neighbours. Sustainable gardening

can be applied to the growing of fruit, vegetables and

herbs, as well as decorative gardens and gardens

which fulfill other purposes such as providing habitat,

screens and windbreaks. It is important to identify

what you want from your garden, and remember that

by using your space wisely you can likely fulfil several

purposes with a sustainable garden.

Things you can do to make your garden sustainable

include using less water and chemicals and growing

plants which provide food for native wildlife.

Composting garden and food scraps provides

nutrients for the garden and also minimises the waste

we create. These things are not as hard as they may

sound - many effective solutions are very easy and

have multiple benefits.

This guide will help you create a garden to suit your

needs and be sustainable. You will find lists of local

plants and suitable native Australian plants, ideas

about garden design worm farming, rainwater tanks,

managing weeds and much more.

Sustainable gardening can also save you

money! Not only can you reduce your water

bill and the costs of garden fertilisers and

other products, you can also produce

healthy fresh food to save on your

shopping bills.

The potential benefits of

sustainable gardening are many.

You can:

• Reduce your water use

• Reduce the use of chemical

fertilisers, herbicides and

pesticides

• Reduce maintenance time and

costs

• Save money

• Provide food and shelter for

native animals

• Contribute to important habitat

corridors for native animals in

the area

• Produce fresh healthy food

• Create an enjoyable space

• Reduce waste disposal

• Reduce greenhouse gases

• Become more self-sufficient

Gardening can be enjoyed by the whole

family, and provides a healthy and

enlightening hobby for children.

A garden can provide food and shelter for wildlife such as

birds, butterflies, frogs and lizards.

7 Garden design and planning |

Following are some things you can

do to transform your existing

garden to make it more sustainable:

• Choose plants which are

indigenous (local) to your area -

they're better suited to the

climate and soil and will support

local wildlife

• Group plants with similar water

requirements together to make

watering easier and more

efficient

• Consider companion planting -

for details see

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• Reduce your lawn area as these

are often the least water-

efficient areas

• Protect your garden from sun

and wind with trees and screens

of thick plants

• Improve your soil quality by

adding compost and mulch to

increase water retention and

nutrients

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Plan an area for composting as this is

a valuable way to reduce waste and

provide great nutrients for your garden.

The 'Top ten tips' at the front of this booklet provide a

summary of the most effective ways you can make

your garden more sustainable. Key elements are

choosing local plants, saving water, using mulch,

providing habitat and minimising the use of chemicals.

For your garden to be sustainable all ongoing costs

and maintenance must be within your capability. If

you're new to gardening it is a good idea to start with

simple plans and hardy plants and you can expand

over time, rather than starting with an ambitious plan

and taking the risk of becoming overwhelmed.

Whenever you're looking for a product to use in your

garden, consider items with lower environmental

impacts such as products made from recycled

materials - for some ideas see

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Following are some things you should consider when

planning a new sustainable garden:

• Assess your site and take note of sun and shade

areas, moist and dry spots, prevailing wind

directions, and any limitations or hazards like

overhead wires or underground water pipes.

• Consider what functional areas you need to

incorporate, such as areas for storage, clothesline

and recreation.

• Remember that a native plant garden can be

created to suit almost any conditions, but a

vegetable garden needs good sun and drainage -

so prioritise a spot for this.

• If you're planning to have a compost bin or heap,

this is better with some shade. For a worm farm

shade is essential.

• The no-dig garden method can be used for native

gardens and vegetable gardens - see page 13 for

details.

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Providing habitat means providing a place for life and

growth. A habitat garden is one which provides the

basic requirements of food, water and a place to

shelter and nest, for native fauna such as birds, frogs,

butterflies, bees, lizards, mammals and insects. To

create habitat the most important thing is diversity - a

range of plant species and habitat features such as

rocks, logs, mulch and water is vital.

Habitat gardens can be very important for native

animals where natural habitats have been reduced. A

habitat garden in any location can provide a valuable

oasis. Your garden may even become part of a

‘habitat corridor’ - a strip of habitat joining two larger

areas of natural habitat. These are important because

much of the remaining natural habitat is fragmented,

and habitat corridors help animals move between

these areas.

When planning your garden, remember that wildlife is

vulnerable to attack from cats and dogs, and may be

scared away by loud noises, flapping washing or

bright lights. Consider the uses of your garden and

how best to integrate safe habitat for wildlife.

Habitat for birds

Having a wide variety of plants is the best way to

attract a range of birds, as they have different diets.

Flowers from plants like grevillea, banksia, hakea,

eucalyptus, correa and kangaroo paw will attract

nectar-feeding birds like honeyeaters and lorikeets.

Fantails, robins and wrens eat insects and are a great

way of controlling pest insects in the garden. These

birds are generally small and will appreciate some

dense and preferably spiky bushes to shelter from

predators.

Grass seeds are a popular food source for finches

and smaller parrots, so including native grasses like

kangaroo grass, wallaby grass and poa is a good

idea. It is best not to provide seed - if you plant a

variety of local species you will attract birds.

Water is important for birds, so

include a bird bath in your garden.

The best bird baths are shallow so

birds can stand in the water, and

they should be up off the ground so

the birds feel safer from predators.

To attract shy birds you need to

have some bushes close to the

bath so they can approach slowly

and have shelter nearby to escape

to.

Nest boxes

Lots of native birds and mammals

make their nests in the hollows of

trees. These hollows are only

usually found in trees that are at

least 60 years old, and old trees

are rare in many urban and rural

area, so adding nest boxes is a

great way to attract and maintain

populations of native birds and

mammals.

Nest boxes are easy to make but

there are important details to

ensure they are suitable and safe

for a range of animals. For details

see

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Landcare or Greening Australia.

Once you have installed a nest box

avoid disturbing it and be patient

as it may take some time for birds

or mammals to ‘accept’ it and take

up residence. If introduced birds

such as sparrows, starlings and

Indian mynahs nest in the box,

remove the nesting materials

quickly to discourage them so the

nest box is available for native

birds.

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9

Habitat for pollinators

Insects are vital for the pollination of many native

plants and the fruits and vegetables in your garden.

There are many native bee species and these are

generally either stingless or small and non-

aggressive. These bees will be attracted by plants

like eucalypts, wattles, grevilleas, cut leaf dasiy and

native rosemary.

Butterflies feed on many flower types but are

particularly attracted to the flat landing surface of

daisy-style flowers. Provide strappy leaved plants for

them to lay eggs on. For inspiration, visit the Butterfly

Garden near Timboon Skate Park.

Moths are usually active at night and are attracted to

white and cream flowers which are more visible and

are often fragrant.

Habitat for lizards

Lizards and other reptiles need somewhere to warm

up in the sun, preferably on a raised rock, but a log or

brick path will also do. This warming spot needs to be

near some good shelter such as a thick low bush or

groundcover so the lizards can hide quickly from

predators. They also need somewhere to sleep, so

create some small spaces under logs and rocks or

amongst thick tussocks of grass. Lizards will find their

own food in your garden as long as you have some

groundcovers and mulch on the ground which is the

habitat of the insects which lizards eat.

Cats are a big threat to lizards (and birds) so keep

your cat indoors or in an enclosed run. If cats visit

from neighbours ask them to do the same or at least

use a bell on the cat collar.

Habitat for frogs

Frogs reproduce by laying eggs in

still water, and tadpoles hatch from

the eggs and live underwater until

growing into frogs, so a pond is the

best way to attract and support a

population of frogs. Frogs spend a

lot of their time out of the water

though, so even if you don't have a

pond you can provide habitat for

frogs who will travel to the nearest

water to breed.

Frogs need a moist habitat with

lots of damp and shaded hiding

places under rocks and logs and

amongst tussock grasses. They

feed on insects so provide a

valuable service in your garden.

An example of how to create a

garden pond is given on the next

page, along with a list of suitable

Australian water plants.

Remember never to go out and

collect frogs or tadpoles for your

pond - they will move in on their

own when you provide the habitat.

Gardening to provide habitat |

Rocks are an attractive feature in the

garden and provide warm spots on top

and hiding spaces below for lizards.

Butterlies bring spectacular colour to the garden as well as

providing very important pollination of flowers.


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A pond can be a beautiful feature of your garden.

Creating a pond can be as simple as burying an old

bath, tub or a large pot into the ground. Ponds with

some sheltering shrubs and rocks and access via

logs or rocks from the surrounding ground will

provide a popular water supply for native wildlife such

as birds and lizards. For safety a pond should have

wire mesh to stop children falling in.

Include some water plants to naturally filter the water,

but don't use any pool chemicals. If you make a pond

using a plastic liner, ensure 'food grade' plastic is

used as some plastics contaminate the water.

If you want to provide habitat for frogs there are a few

important things you need remember, and for more

information visit

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• Build the pond in a partly shaded position, ideally

with morning sun and afternoon shade to regulate

water temperature.

• Build the pond in a low point in your garden so the

surrounding area is moist, but ensure excess

water can flow away.

• Build the pond in a location away from bedroom

windows and neighbours houses as frogs can be

noisy at times.

• Ensure at least one side of the pond has easy

access via a gentle slope to the water, and include

a deeper area (over 50cm if possible).

• Include water plants but the surface shouldn't be

covered by plants as this blocks light and deprives

tadpoles of air.

• Include rocks, logs and a variety of native plants

like reeds, ferns, groundcovers and sedges

around and overhanging the pond to create moist,

sheltered hiding places.

A pond provides habitat and water

supply for frogs, lizards and birds, and

can be a focal point in your design.

• Put rocks and logs into the

pond to create underwater

hiding places and shade.

• Be careful if installing a fountain

as the water pump may suck in

and kill frog eggs and tadpoles.

• If adding fish ensure they are

native fish which do not feed on

frog eggs and tadpoles.

Frog-friendly water plants:

• Nardoo (Marsilea species)

• Marsh flower (Villarsia exultata)

• Tassel sedge (Carex

fascicularis)

• Jointed twig-rush (Baumea

articulata)

Other frog-friendly plants:

• Flax lily (Dianella species)

• Wallaby grass (Danthonia

tenuior)

• Native daisy (Brachyscome

multifida vars.)

• Tassel cord rush (Restio

tetraphyllus)

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Many fruits and vegetables lose nutritional value

gradually over time after harvesting, so growing your

own food and eating it fresh from the garden is the

best way to get maximum value from your fruit and

vegetables. It can also save you money, and you can

eliminate or minimise the use of chemicals which

makes both the food and your garden more healthy.

Furthermore, much of the food we purchase is grown

far away and storage, refrigeration and transport uses

a lot of energy and fuel. Finally, if you compost your

food scraps and use this compost on your garden you

are reducing waste disposal and maximising the use

of resources.

If you're new to gardening, start with some easy low-

maintenance plants such as herbs in pots - these will

likely inspire you in both the kitchen and the garden!

Consider 'heirloom' varieties of fruit and vegetables -

for details about the benefits and varieties visit

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A 'no-dig' garden is suitable if you have poor soil or if

you don't want to spend time digging to prepare your

garden. It works on the same principles as

composting, with layering of high and low-nitrogen

materials.

You can start using your no-dig

garden immediately but it will

improve over time as the materials

break down and microorganisms

move in.

creating a 'no-dig' garden

1. Mark your area. If you want

create an edge using bricks or

timber to the right height. Avoid

treated timber which may leach.

2. Cover area with sheets of

overlapping newpaper up to

0.5cm thick to stop weeds,

water thoroughly.

3. Layer dense hay or straw 5-

10cm deep, water lightly.

4. Layer manure or rich compost

2-5cm deep.

5. Layer loose hay or straw 10-

20cm deep, water lightly.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 to reach

the desired height.

7. Add a top layer of compost, or

create pockets of compost to

plant your seedlings in.

8. Add a final layer of hay, straw

or mulch around your seedlings

to retain water and keep the soil

cool. Water thoroughly.

9. As materials break down, add

extra layers to retain the

desired height.

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Make your garden to suit the amount of time, money and

energy you have to put in to it.

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Growing your own food |


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Raised garden beds provide easier access with less

bending down. They also contain your garden soil

allowing greater control over the soil condition,

moisture and nutrients. Weed invasion can also be

reduced as your garden is isolated from the

surrounding soil.

Raised garden beds can be purchased in a range of

sizes and style, made from materials including timber,

plastic and corrugated iron. You can also make the

beds yourself from bricks or blocks, timber,

corrugated iron, old tyres or many other materials.

Ensure you don't use chemically treated timber if

you're growing food as the chemicals can leach into

the soil and be absorbed by plants.

A raised bed needn't be high. A height of just 25cm or

so contains enough soil for most vegetables and

herbs. The ideal width of your garden bed depends

on what you plan to grow and whether you have

access from both sides - ensure you can reach all

parts of the bed from the side.

A range of foods can be grown in pots, including

herbs, lettuce, asian greens, shallots, leeks,

strawberries and many more. Pots can be placed in

your garden, on decks, terraces and pathways, and

small pots can be put on your kitchen windowsill or

bench for easy access and maintenance.

Maintaining nutrients and moisture in pot soil is vital

and requires more regular attention than larger

bodies of soil. It is strongly recomended that potting

mix be used rather than soil from your garden. Since

most food plants prefer a high concentration of

nutrients the addition of a small amount of compost or

fertiliser every 3-4 weeks may be required.

Try to keep pots in places you pass often

so you will notice changes in the condition

of plants before its too late.

Some tips for watering pots:

• Pots must have a good

drainage hole in the bottom so

soil doesn't get waterlogged.

• Glazed pots retain water better

than plain clay pots.

• In summer, group pots together

and move them to shadier

positions.

• Water only enough so that a

little water drains through the

bottom of the pot.

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A number of small raised garden beds

can be much easier to manage than one

large one.

Strawberries can be grown in pots and

can be placed on your deck or table.

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'Green' compost materials:

• Fruit and vegetable scraps

• Coffee grounds

• Tea leaves and teabags

• Green leaves and grass

• Fresh plant cuttings

• Horse manure

• Fresh weeds (exclude noxious

weeds and seeds)

'Brown' compost materials:

• Dry leaves and grass

• Shredded newspaper

• Wood chips and sawdust

• Dolomite

• Fire ash

• Dry weeds (exlude noxious

weeds and seeds)

Unsuitable materials:

• Bread, cake, pasta etc

• Meat, seafood and bones

• Dairy products

• Animal fat or manure (except

from horses)

• Magazines and glossy paper

• Metal, plastic, glass, coals

• Large branches

• Noxious or diseases plants

• Weeds with runner or bulbs

Food scraps from the kitchen can be

collected and composted rather than

throwing them in the bin.

Composting or worm farming is one of the best things

you can do to make your garden more sustainable.

Composting is the breaking down of organic material,

a natural process which you can use in your garden

to turn your food and garden waste into a nutrient-

rich compost which your native garden and your

vegetable garden will love.

Worm farming is composting with the use of a high

ratio of special compost worms to consume food

waste.

The benefits of composting

• Reduce the amount of waste you throw away by

up to 50%.

• Reduce or eliminate the use of artificial fertilisers.

• Improve the structure and nutrient composition of

soils.

If you can't compost at home, remember that food

scraps and garden waste can be put into your green

wheelie bin for Council collection. Wrap food scraps

in old newspaper to keep your bin clean.

Home composting is undertaken either in a large

container or enclosure or in an open heap. If you

manage your compost well it will work faster and you

can avoid problems with odour and pests.

First choose a shady and well drained position as the

balance of heat and moisture is important. Your

compost needs to be moist but not wet, and should

be warm inside (the decomposing creates heat) but

should not get too much sun or this will dry it out.

Separate your compostable food scraps in

the kitchen to reduce waste and collect

this valuable material for composting. Use

a small bucket with lid and carry handle -

a label and list of acceptable materials

will help others do the right thing too.

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Composting and worm farming |


Compost troubleshooting:

• Smells like sulphur (rotten

eggs) - compost is too wet, add

dry 'brown' materials and mix

well, withold watering.

• Smells like ammonia (acidic) -

compost has too much rich

'green' material such as food

scraps, add 'brown' materials

and mix well, add water if dry.

• Other smells - ensure no dairy

products or meat are in the

compost, turn the compost

regularly.

• Pests - ensure no dairy

products, meat or bread is in

the compost, and cover with a

lid, plastic, or a layer of dirt.

• Slow to break down - check that

you are putting in the right

balance of materials, ensuring it

is moist but not wet, and mixing

it regularly.

Completed compost being removed for

use on the vegetable garden

Making compost

To make good compost your compost bin or pile

needs food, air and water. Feed your compost with a

mix of 'green' and 'brown’ organic waste materials

(see previous page) in alternating layers to get the

quickest breakdown of material.

Make sure that air can get into and through the

compost – start by alternating layers as described

above then thoroughly mix the materials regularly (at

least once per week) and break up any clumps. Add

more small plant cuttings, shredded newspaper or

other materials which create air spaces if the pile

becomes dense.

Your compost should be kept moist (like a damp

sponge) but should not be wet as that will fill all the

air spaces and deprive the material of oxgen. On

compost heaps a cover of damp newspaper,

cardboard or hessian will help retain moisture on the

sides and surface which tend to dry out on hot days.

Depending on the conditions and how thoroughly

composted you want your material to be, it will be

ready to use in 12-16 weeks.

Using compost

Finished compost is dark and crumbly, like rich moist

soil. It is nutrient rich and has high organic content

making it a great fertiliser and soil conditioner. Use it

sparingly.

Add compost to your vegetable garden by digging it

into the soil or spreading on the surface. Add

compost to native gardens as well, but be careful not

to apply too much as some Australian plants prefer

not to be over-fertilised. You can also use compost as

a fertiliser around the drip line of trees.

Health issues

Compost contains organisms and on rare occassions

these have been associated with illness and allergies.

Always protect broken skin, ensure compost is moist

to avoid dust, and wash your hands after handling.

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Caring for your worms

Feed the worms weekly, adjusting

the amount so there is just a little

left at the end of each week. Start

by giving about 1kg of food each

week per 1,000 worms.

After feeding the worms, cover with

a hessian or damp newspaper ‘lid’.

If small vinegar flies are a problem,

add some compost or soil on top of

the food scraps under the lid.

The worm farm should be moist,

but not wet. Water every few days

and give extra on hot, windy days.

Foods compost worms like:

• Fruit and vegetable scraps

• Coffee grounds

• Tea leaves and teabags

• Moist paper and cardboard

Don't feed your worms:

• Onions and garlic

• Meat, seafood and bones

• Dairy products

• Acidic foods like citrus and

pineapple

• Magazines and glossy paper

• Large pieces of food

Composting worms are quite small but

can eat half their weight each day.

Feeding fruit and vegetable scraps to worms is

another way to turn your food waste into a valuable

resource. Worms break down your food scraps faster

than a compost bin, but the range of material you can

put in is more limited and a little more care is

required. Worm farms are ideal for those living in flats

or houses with small backyards as they are compact,

clean and easy to manage.

You can purchase a worm farm or make one yourself.

You will need to buy the special ‘compost worms’.

The end products are a nutrient rich compost and a

liquid fertilizer - great for gardens, pots and lawns.

Making a worm farm

1. Get two polystyrene or wooden open-topped

boxes and make drainage holes in both. Place

one in a well shaded area and up off the ground.

Put a tray underneath to catch the rich liquid

which drains out.

2. Line the box with damp newspaper.

3. Add a big bucketful of ‘bedding material’ for the

worms – this should be soft and moist soil or

compost mixed with some grass clippings or

shredded paper.

4. Add the worms - 2,000 is enough to start and

these can be bought from Bunnings or

Camperdown Compost Company.

5. Add food scraps weekly, covering with a 'lid' of

hessian or moist newspaper.

6. When the first box is full put the second box on

top and add food scraps into it - the worms will

move up into this box when they finish the food in

the first box.

7. Ensuring all worms are out of the first box, use

the rich compost on your garden.

8. Keep rotating boxes like this as required, and

check the liquid tray regularly.

Composting and worm farming |


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Mulch of woodchips of various sizes is more long lasting than

fine mulch but still provides nutrients to the soil.

The average family uses almost 20% of their water in

the garden

1

! A water-wise garden can significantly

reduce your water use and will also:

• Reduce your water bills

• Reduce the time spent watering

• Make your garden more attractive during dry times

as it will keep thriving

To make your garden water-wise use drought tolerant

and local plants, add mulch and consider the

products and practices outlined here. Also try using

rainwater and greywater on your garden. For lots

more information visit the 'saving water in the garden'

section at

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Mulch benefits and uses

Mulch is vital to sustainable gardening and should be

used on all gardens. A layer of mulch about 75mm

deep can reduce the loss of water from the soil by an

amazing 70%

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, and will also reduce weeds, erosion

and soil temperature variation.

On native plant gardens a mulch of coarse woodchip

is most common and this provides nutrients to the soil

as it breaks down, but inorganic mulches such as

gravel or crushed brick can also be used and have

the benefit of being long lasting. In vegetable gardens

a finer mulch such as hay or straw is more suitable.

Remember to always keep mulch clear of plant stems

and tree trunks to avoid fungal problems.

Water-wise products:

• Add water crystals to holes for

new plants to reduce water

needs by up to 40%.

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• Use drip irrigation systems to

deliver water slowly and directly

to the soil for better absorption

and less runoff and evaporation.

• Use tap timers to ensure

watering systems aren't on too

long.

• Use a trigger nozzle with

various spray settings on your

hose for convenience, versatility

and to avoid wasting water.

Water-wise practices:

• Group plants with similar water

needs together

• Gently fork your soil to create

air and water spaces

• Make a dam of soil and mulch

around plant stems so water

doesn't run off during watering

A soaker hose slowly drips water into the

soil. It can be placed under mulch.

1

www.ourwater.vic.gov.au

2

www.resourcesmart.vic.gov.au

17

These tips will help you save water and will also

encourage stronger growth in plants:

• Only water when the soil is dry - move aside

mulch and put your finger into the soil and if it is

moist don't add water.

• Only water in the early morning or evening, and

when it's not too windy, so less water evaporates

or blows away.

• Water less often but more deeply to encourage

deeper root growth and drought tolerance.

• Water slowly - if water is running away on the

surface you're watering too fast. Be careful this

isn't happening under your mulch at the soil

surface where it is harder to see.

• Water directly to the roots of plants - at the base

of small plants and around the 'drip-line' of larger

plants (the drip-line is a circle around the plant

directly underneath the outer leaves).

• Check the weather forecast and don't water if rain

is on the way.

• Wherever possible, use rainwater and greywater

instead of drinking water.

Through good garden design and plant

selection, the use of rainwater tanks,

water conservation products and thrifty

watering practices, you may be able to

maintain your garden without using any

drinking water. This is great for the

environment and your water bill!

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Rainwater captured from your roof

can be used for flushing toilets,

washing clothes and watering the

garden. This is a great way to

reduce the amount of drinking

water you use, and also reduce

pressure on the stormwater system

during rainfall.

A wide range of rainwater tanks are

available and you may qualify for a

rebate on the purchase cost. When

choosing a tank you need to

consider how large your roof

catchment is, the rainfall in your

area, where you have space to put

the tank, where you will use the

water, and costs involved in

purchase, installation and

maintenance.

Remember that to get strong water

pressure from a tank you will need

to either install the tank in a high

position or on a stand, or install an

electric pump.

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Always use a hose with a trigger nozzle

when watering so you can apply the

right amount of water in the right place.

Saving water in your garden |


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Water which is reused after being used in the house

is called greywater. Water from the kitchen and

dishwasher shouldn’t be used as there may be too

much food and chemical residue, but water from

baths, showers and washing machines is suitable for

reuse as long as precautions are taken.

Greywater can be used immediately on your lawn

and garden, but should not be stored for later use

because the bacteria present in small amounts can

grow quickly to levels which may be dangerous.

Because of this bacteria you should never use

greywater on plants producing food which is eaten

raw. Cooking produce before eating it kills the harmful

bacteria.

To get the most out of your greywater you can install

a greywater treatment system – this will allow you to

reuse much more water and could almost completely

eliminate the need to use drinking water on your lawn

and garden. You may be eligible for a rebate on the

purchase and installation costs.

Without a treatment system you can still use

greywater by putting a greywater diversion hose on

your washing machine. This sends the water straight

from your machine to the lawn or garden. If your

garden is too far away you can collect the greywater

in buckets, but remember to use the water straight

away.

You could also collect water from your shower or bath

in buckets and use this in the garden. In the shower it

is particularly easy to collect the water at the start

which is usually wasted while waiting for hot water to

come through. When watering your garden with a

bucket remember to pour the water slowly so it is

absorbed rather than flowing away across the surface

- water slowly and deeply for stronger plants.

For information on saving water and the

rebates and grants available in Victoria,

visit www.ourwater.vic.gov.au/saving/home

Greywater safety tips:

• Don't use greywater on plants

from which you eat raw food, as

there may be harmful bacteria.

• Avoid putting greywater on

areas frequented by children or

animals.

• If using laundry water on native

plants ensure you use

phosphate-free detergents and

no bleach.

• When washing heavily soiled

loads, use only the rinse cycle

greywater.

• Spread your greywater over a

large area so the concentration

of any contaminants is low.

• To protect your washing

machine water pump, ensure

the greywater hose is not

thinner than the washing

machine hose, and that the

hose doesn’t go up hill or too

far.

Thick, corrugated plastic hosing is

suitable to divert greywater from the

washing machine

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Soils vary widely across Australia and our plants are

adapted to the type of soil present where they have

evolved. Most soil has a mix of particles of different

sizes along with organic material and

microorganisms. Soil with a fairly even mix of particle

sizes and a high proportion of organic matter is

typically the most productive as it holds water, air and

nutrients in the small spaces between particles.

Sandy soil is coarse, has less organic matter, and

both water and nutrients drain through quickly. Soil

with lots of very fine clay particles doesn’t let water

through fast enough so it is often either dry or

waterlogged.

Australian plants have adapted to grow in the

naturally occuring low nutrient soils, unlike many

introduced species. Lots of Australian plants are also

used to sandy soils and don’t like soil which stays wet

for long periods.

If your soil is sandy adding organic matter will make a

big difference to plant growth and you will be able to

use less water and fertilisers. Add organic matter by

mixing in manure or compost, and add mulch to the

surface to slowly break down into the soil.

If your soil has high clay content adding organic

matter is again important, and the clay can be broken

down by adding gypsum or ‘ground-breaker’ products.

For some Australian plants providing too many

nutrients (phosphate in particular) can cause

problems so use native plant fertilisers which

compensate for this. Plants which prefer sandy soils

like good drainage – consider creating a raised bed

or mound for these plants so water drains away.

The benefits of mulch cannot be

overstated. A layer of mulch about 75mm

deep is best to maintain a more consistent

soil temperature, reduce water

evaporation, and suppress weeds.

In established garden beds and

lawns which have become

compacted, using a garden fork to

gently loosen the soil is a good

way to introduce spaces in the soil

for air and water. The air is

important for survival of

microorganisms which are vital to

the breakdown of organic matter.

Be careful not to disturb the soil

structure or plant roots too much

though, and vary the depth of your

forking so you don't create a loose

layer on top which has a solid

underground base where water

may pool.

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Soil which is soft, crumbly and dark,

with visible organic matter, is often the

most productive.

Use a fork to gently loosen soil in

gardens and lawns.

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Soil solutions for native plants |


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Lawns typically require lots of water and

maintenance, and often we have much more lawn

than we use. There are a lot of alternatives to lawns,

with benefits such as saving water and maintenance

and providing privacy, habitat for wildlife and home

grown food. Some of these as outlined below:

• Native grasses - hardy tussock grasses such as

kangaroo grass and wallaby grass can be used to

create a low maintenance meadow which seed-

eating birds, lizards and frogs (if its damp) will

love. Weeping grass is another Australian grass

and can be used to create lawn in low traffic areas.

• Groundcovers - create a living mat with dense

groundcovers interspersed with stepping stones

for access.

• Native garden beds - a garden of shrubs and

flowers can provide privacy and attract wildlife,

and if you use drought tolerant plants and a good

layer of mulch it can be water efficient and low

maintenance.

• Vegetable garden beds - if you have an area

which gets lots of sun, consider a garden bed to

produce fresh, healthy herbs and vegetables.

• Paving - on high traffic areas paving may be

appropriate.

• Woodchip or sawdust - if your grass is struggling

due to high traffic, little direct sun, or lots of tree

roots, consider creating pathways with woodchip

or sawdust through groundcovers and native

grasses.

There are a few critical things you

can do to make your lawn more

sustainable. Firstly, as with all

plants only water when the soil is

dry, it is not windy, and in the early

morning or evening. Water less

often but more deeply to encourage

deep root growth.

To reduce the amount of fertiliser

required, when you mow your

grass leave lawn clippings on the

grass to break down so the

nutrients return to the soil. To make

this work best, mow only when it is

dry to avoid clumping of cuttings.

Next, let your lawn grow longer as

it shades the soil and retains

moisture. Set your mower to about

5cm above the ground, cutting only

about a third off the top of the

grass.

Finally, keep your mower blades

sharp, and if possible hire or

borrow a 'mulching mower' which

cuts clippings more finely.

Pavers in a pathway of pebbles

surrounded by shrubs and wildflowers

is striking and low maintenance.

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Following are just some of the

ways which weeds may spread

from your garden:

• Growing under or through your

fence.

• Seeds blown by wind or eaten

and deposited by birds or other

animals.

• Seeds stuck to your clothes,

shoes or car tyres.

• Illegal dumping of garden waste

over your back fence or into

bushland.

Here are some important things

you can do to avoid spreading

weeds:

• Use the weeds list on the

following pages to identify

weeds in your garden, and

remove them as described.

• When purchasing plants,

choose native species not

introduced ones.

• Never dump garden waste in

bushland or reserves - you can

either compost your garden

waste, put it in your greenwaste

kerbside collection bin, or take

it to the tip.

For more information visit

www.weeds.gov.au

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Vines like cape ivy (shown) and bridal creeper will infest

bushland smothering native plants.

Managing weeds |

A weed is any plant growing where we don't want it to

grow. Weeds can cause serious problems, reducing

productivity in agriculture and diversity in the natural

environment.

In your garden, weeds affect the productivity and

health of your plants by competing for sun, water and

nutrients. They can also make your garden less

attractive. The more often you can attend to your

weeds the less work you will have to do in the long

run.

Many plants we grow in our gardens can become

weeds if they escape into surrounding areas. It is

important to remember that our gardens are part of a

larger ecosystem, including neighbouring properties,

reserves and bushland, wetlands and waterways.

If we allow our introduced plants to escape into these

areas some will thrive and become problem weeds.

The weeds shown on the following pages are known

to cause problems and should be removed. Other

introduced plants in your garden which show a

tendancy to spread are also a risk and should be

carefully monitored. Using local native plants is the

best way to avoid your plants becoming garden

escape weeds.

About 65% of Australia's weed species were

deliberately introduced as ornamental

garden plants, before escaping into

bushland or farmland.


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Blue Periwinkle (Vinca

major)

Flowering time: Spring

Seeding time: Vegetative

reproduction only

Control time: September -

November

Control method: Hand, spray,

dig

Bluebell Creeper

(Sollya heterophylla)

Flowering time: Spring -

Summer

Seeding time: Autumn - Winter

Control time: August -

February


dig

Bridal Creeper

(Myrsiphyllum

asparagoides)

Flowering time: Summer

Seeding time: Autumn - Winter

Control time: Seedlings in

March - May, established

July - September

Control method: Spray, dig

Cape Ivy (Delairea odorata)

Flowering time: Early spring

Seeding time: Orange berries in

summer

Control time: March - June

Control method: Hand, paint,

spray

African Boxthorn (Lycium

ferocissimum)

Flowering time: In second year

of growth, usually summer

Seeding time: Throughout the

year


December,


spray, dig or cut and paint

anytime

Agapanthus (Agapanthus

praecox spp. Orienalis)

Flowering time: Early Summer

Seeding time: Late Summer,

early Autumn

Control time: June - August

Control method: Hand, dig

Arum Lilly (Zantedeschia

aethiopica)

Flowering time: Late Winter -

early Spring

Seeding time: Late Spring -

early Summer


December


Blackberry (Rubus

fruticosus)

Flowering time: Early summer

Seeding time: Ripen in late

summer - early autumn

Control time: November - April

Control method: Paint, spray,

dig

Guide to Control Methods

Hand: Pull out weed by hand Dig: Dig out weed

Paint: Cut stem and paint with chemical Spray: Use chemical (herbicide/fungicide)

Drill: Drill hole in trunk and fill with chemical following directions on label

23

Cape Wattle (Paraserianthes

lophantha ssp. Lophantha)

Flowering time: Winter

Seeding time: Pods in Summer

Control time: June - November

or cut and paint anytime

Control method: Paint, drill,

spray

Coast Wattle (Acacia

longifolia vr. Sophorae)


Seeding time: Pods in summer


September


drill, dig

Cotoneasters (Cotoneaster

species)


Seeding time: Red berries in

late Summer - Autumn

Control time: November or cut

and paint anytime


drill

Desert Ash (Fraxinus

angustifolia)


Seeding time: Summer

Control time: September - April

Control method: Paint, drill, dig

English Ivy (Hedera helilx)

Flowering time: Late Autumn -

Winter

Seeding time: Berries in winter

- spring

Control time: January - April


dig

Gorse (Ulex europaeus)

Flowering time: Sporadic all

year but predominantly in

Spring

Seeding time: Predominantly in

Summer

Control time: August - March

Control method: Paint

(anytime), spray, dig

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum

major sp.)

Flowering time: September -

April

Seeding time: January - April


January


dig

Pattersons Curse (Echium

plantagineum L.)

Flowering time: Spring - early

Summer

Seeding time: Summer


October or when actively

growing


Poplars (Populus species)


Seeding time: Mainly vegetative


March

Control method: Paint, drill

Radiata Pine (Pinus radiata)


Seeding time: Cones can open

anytime

Control time: August - Feb


Weeds in Corangamite |


Ragwort (Senecio jacobaea)

Flowering time: October -

March, but damaged plants

may flower anytime

Seeding time: Germination

takes place in Autumn, but

may occur anytime if

conditions are suitable

Control time: Seedlings in

March - November

Control method: Hand, spray, dig

Spanish Heath (Erica

lusitanica)


Seeding time: Winter - Spring

Control time: All year


spray, dig

Spear Thistle (Cirsium

vulgare)


Seeding time: Spring

Control time: Anytime plant is

actively growing


Sweet Briar (Rosa

rubiginosa)

Flowering time: Late Spring -

early Summer

Seeding time: Summer -

early Autumn


November

Control method: Paint, spray, dig

Sweet Pittosporum

(Pittosporum undulatum)


Seeding time: Orange berries in

Autumn - Winter

Control time: September

Control method: Hand, paint

(anytime), drill

Willows (Salix species)


Seeding time: Only Salix cinera

sets seeds


March


Wandering Jew

(Tradescantia alviflora)

Flowering time: Summer

Seeding time: Vegetative

reproduction only

Control time: November -

March


spray

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The two most important things you can do to avoid

pests in the garden are to maintain healthy soil so

your plants are strong, and create a diverse habitat to

encourage organisms which feed on pests.

Healthy soil will produce healthy plants which will

resist and outgrow pest attack. Healthy soil also

naturally contains beneficial fungi and moulds which

help plants resist disease.

A wide range of organisms can help you control pests

in your garden if you provide them with the habitat

they need to survive. These include animals like:

• Birds

• Lizards and frogs

• Spiders and centipedes

• Ladybirds and dragonflies

• Praying mantis

To encourage these predators you need to provide a

diverse habitat with a range of plants, hiding and

nesting places, and water. See the Habitat Gardening

section in this booklet for more details.

Other ways to avoid pest problems include:

• Resist using chemicals which may kill beneficial

organisms as well as the pests.

• Adapt your plant selection as you learn which

plants are best suited to your conditions - they will

be healthier and more resitant to pest and disease.

• Consider plants which deter insects, such as

marigolds and strong herbs like sage and oregano.

• Consider 'companion planting' where plants which

complement each other are placed together (eg

basil with tomatoes, and onions with carrots).

• Rotate the location of different vegetable crops in

your garden.

Slugs & Snails

• Remove hiding places such as

boards, bricks, pots and trays

on the ground.

• Encourage kookaburras and

magpies by providing landings

in high positions.

• Use a torch to spot and remove

slugs and snails about two

hours after dark.

Possums

These are native animals and

deserve to live happily and be

treated kindly. If they are causing

problems, consider:

• A chicken wire barrier over

garden beds and around small

shrubs.

• A cylindrical sheath of smooth

hard material such as

galvanised iron wrapped

around the trunk of trees so

possums can't climb up.

• Possums prefer not to travel

across open ground so make

access harder by installing tight

thin wire above the fence line

and maintaining a gap between

tree branches.

Slugs and snails are most active at night

and leave distinctive slimy trails

Managing pests |


Runoff containing fertilisers from gardens contributes to the

growth of algae in local ponds and waterways.

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Gardens naturally contain an abundance of living

organisms. Many of them are too small to see, and

most help your garden stay healthy. For example, it is

vital to remember that not all insects are pests –

some perform important functions such as pollinating

flowers, recycling nutrients and preying on other

insects.

Using chemicals in your garden will often affect many

organisms, not just the ones you are targeting, which

means your garden may be less resistant to future

pest and disease attacks. Using chemicals may also

affect the health of your family, pets and surrounding

ecosystems, as the chemicals can be absorbed into

food, soil and water. For these reasons, chemicals

should only be a last resort.

As described in the Managing Pests section, the best

way to maintain a healthy garden is to have healthy

soil and provide diverse habitat. If intervention is

required, consider alternative solutions before

resorting to the use of chemicals.

Instead of chemical fertilisers, use organic

fertilisers such as compost, seaweed and

fish emulsion. These break down slowly

providing long-term nutrition for plants

and minimising the loss of nutrients in run-

off water.

Following are some popular non-

toxic alternatives to chemicals for

common pests and diseases.

Aphids, scale and mites

First try to deter ants which often

support these pests. Then dissolve

pure soap (not detergent) in warm

water until it is a milky colour and

frothy. Spray on infected areas

every few days or after rain.

Mildew and red spider mites

Use a spray of milk diluted with an

equal amount of water. Spray

every few days.

Slugs and snails

Place an open dish, bottle or jar

half filled with stale beer or

sweetened water (sugar dissolved

in warm water) near your plants

with the rim just above ground

level. The yeast or sugar will attract

slugs and snails which will then

drown. Clean and replace liquid

daily.

Powdery mildew, leaf spot

and other fungal diseases

Spray strong chamomile tea on

affected areas regularly. It is weak

fungicide best applied when

disease is first noticed. As a last

resort, pyrethrum is a natural

insecticide effective against a

variety of insects. Use with caution

according to directions and be

aware of allergy risk.

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This guide contains many ideas and reasons for

choosing certain plants. Look at the Habitat

Gardening section for how to support wildlife, the

Garden Design section for site issues you should

consider, and the Corangamite Local Plant List for

details about some of the great local species you can

use.

Here are some simple general tips to help you choose

the right plants:

• Look around your local area to see what is

growing well in places with similar conditions (eg

slope, sun, soil) to your site.

• Choose local plant species as these will be best

adapted to your conditions, will be more resistant

to the local pests and diseases, and will attract

and support local wildlife.

• Check your soil type - the three main types are

sandy soil which will be grainy and will drain water

quickly, rich loam which will contain a mixture of

particle sizes and organic material, and clay soil

which will be heavy and dense and won't drain

well.

• Look at how much sun your area gets - plant

labels will usually identify whether the plant

prefers full sun, part sun and part shade, or full

shade.

• Think about how much time you have for

maintenance and look at plant labels for

instructions about pruning, watering and nutrient

needs.

• Armed with knowledge about the conditions in

your garden, ask staff at your local nursery what

local species they recommend.

Selecting the right plants |

Sun and water

Full sun prefered

Part sun prefered

Shade prefered

Drought tolerant plant

Size at maturity

Estimated height

Estimated width

Provides habitat for

Birds

Lizards

Frogs

Bees, butterflies or moths


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Swamp Gum

(Eucalyptus ovata)

8-25m

Features: Bark is dark, hard, rough and shed in ribbons

from upper trunk and branches leaving smooth grayish

surface.

Flowering/seeding time: Mar - Nov

Grows Best In: Boggy/damp areas

Manna Gum

(Eucalyptus viminalis)

25-50m

Features: Bark peels off in ribbons to reveal smooth

white trunk, leaves are narrow and weeping in habit,

favoured by koalas.

Flowering/seeding time: Jan - May

Grows Best In: South/North of Shire

Messmate Stringybark

(Eucalyptus obliqua)

10-70m

Features: Bark pale brown, fibrous and stringy, leaves

are dark green on both sides, flowers in clusters of

white to cream.

Flowering/seeding time: Dec - Mar

Grows Best In: South of Shire

Narrow Leaf Peppermint

(Eucalyptus radiata)

10-45m

Features: Fine, fibrous, interlaced grey bark and

narrow, grey-green foliage with a strong peppermint

aroma when crushed. Small club shaped buds

followed by white flowers.

Flowering/seeding time: Oct - Jan


Brown Stringybark

(Eucalyptus baxteri)

15-40m

Features: Cream/white flowers, fast growing, low

maintenance, leaves are large and dark green, bark is

very stringy, grey to red brown in colour.

Flowering/seeding time: Dec - Apr

Grows Best In: Coastal areas, South of Shire

Drooping She Oak

(Alloccarina verticillata)

4-10m

Features: Tree crown usually rounded, sull greyish-

green drooping branches.

Flowering/seeding time: Spring

Grows Best In: Coastal areas, North of Shire

For a guide to the symbols used please see page 27.

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Silver Banksia

(Banksia marginata)

1-7m

Features: Leaves are dark green in colour above and

silver underneath, flowers are yellow, cylindrical up to

9cm long.

Flowering/seeding time: Feb - Jun


Hop Wattle

(Acacia stricta)

1-5m

Features: Quick growing low shrub ideal for planting

under existing trees, pale yellow globular flowers.

Flowering/seeding time: May - Oct


Myrtle Wattle

(Acacia myrtifolia)

50cm-2m

Features: Reddish branches, yellow globular flowers

with dark green, thick leaves.

Flowering/seeding time: Jul - Oct


Blackwood

(Acacia melanoxylon)

6-30m

Features: Fast growing upright tree, foliage usually

dense and dark green, pale cream coloured flower

heads.

Flowering/seeding time: Jul - Oct


Swamp Sheoak

(Allocasuarina paludosa)

1-3m

Features: Slow growing dense grey-green shrub.

Flowering/seeding time: Mar - Oct


River Red Gum

(Eucalyptus camaldulensis)

45m

Features: Perennial, single stemmed, large boled,

medium sized to tall tree.

Flowering/seeding time: Late Spring - Early Summer

Grows Best In: North of Shire, Boggy/damp areas

Corangamite local plant guide |For a guide to the symbols used please see page 27.

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Prickly Tea Tree

(Leptospermum juniperinum)

2-5m

Features: Ridged prickly leaved shrub with hard flaky

bark, flowers are white in colour, adaptable plant that

tolerates wet sites.

Flowering/seeding time: Oct - Mar


Common Heath

(Epacris impressa)

50cm 1.5m

Features: Upright or spreading shrub, leaves rigid,

spreading and sharp pointed, flowers white, prink or red

tubular or bell shaped.

Flowering/seeding time: Autumn - Spring


Common Correa

(Correa reflexa)

20-50cm 1-2m

Features: Leaves vary from round to narrow ovate,

green smooth or hairy above, with shirt hairs beneath.

Bell shaped flowers red or green or a combination of

both.



Common Everlasting

(Chrysocephlum apiculatum)

30cm 50cm-1-5m

Features: Perennial herb with sharp pointed, wolly

leaves, flower heads are yellow and papery.

Flowering/seeding time: Late Spring - Early Summer

Grows Best In: Coastal areas, South/North of Shire

Cushion Bush

(Leucophyta brownii)

20cm 1m

Features: Low hardy bushy shrub with densely

entangled grey-white branches, leaves are very narrow,

downy grey and held close to the branches, flower

heads are small, whitish-yellow in colour.

Flowering/seeding time: Spring - Summer

Grows Best In: Coastal areas

Round Leaf Mint Bush

(Prostanthera rotundifolia)

50cm-3m 1.5-2.5m

Features: Foliage has minty fragrance, makes excellent

small screen, flowers are bluish pink in colour.



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Austral Indigo

(Indigofera australis)

1-2m 1-2m

Features: Leaves blue-green with pink to lilac flowers,

requires pruning after flowering to maintain

compactness.

Flowering/seeding time: Sep - Dec


Running Marsh Flower

(Villarsia reniformis)

40cm 1m

Features: Aquatic herb with glossy, circular leaves,

grows in shallow water with leaves emerging, flowers

are yellow held above the water, best grown in pots in

pond situations as it tends to dominate the water body.

Flowering/seeding time: Oct - Mar

Grows Best In: Boggy/dam areas

River Buttercup

(Ranunculus inundatus)

Features: Weak upright perennial herb, leaves appear

on tall stems, flowers are yellow and grow on tall stems

also, grow well in damp areas, can handle the

occasional flooding.


Grows Best In: Boogy/damp areas

Long Purple Flag

(Patersonia occidentalis)

50cm 50cm

Features: A frost hardy plant which can withstand a dry

situation, has greyish-green twisted leaves. It is a tall,

free-flowering species bearing blue to purple flowers.

Mass planting.



Black Wattle

(Acacia mearnsii)

15m

Features: Evergreen tree with dark olive green leaves,

flowers pale yellow or cream, globular flower heads in

large, fragrant sprays.



Hedge Wattle

(Acacia paradoxa)

2m 4m

Features: Thorny shrub, intricately branched with small,

wavy edged leaves, yellow flowers.


Corangamite local plant guide |

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Scented Paperbark

(Melaleuca squarrosa)

3m

Features: Small shrub with papery bark, sharply

pointed leaves, flowers white to yellow in colour,

sometimes tinged with pink.



Woolly Tea Tree

(Leptospermum lanigerum)

2-6m

Features: Leaves are short, soft and hairy, grey to

green in colour, forms masses of white flowers.



Spear Grass

(Austrostipa spp)

to 70cm

Features: Robust tufted perennial grass with bold

prplish branching flower spikes to 1.5m, soft, mostly

hairless leaves. Mass planting.


Grows Best In: North of Shire

Kangaroo Grass

(Themeda triandra)

40-75cm 50cm

Features: Soft erect or sprawling perennial tussock with

tall rusty-orange to reddish drooping flower heads. Soft

bright green linear leaves, sometimes purplish in

spring. Mass planting.

Flowering/seeding time: Dec - Feb


Silver Tussock Grass

(Poa labillardierei)

40-70cm

Features: Tall dense perennial tussock with large rough

leaves and open flower spikes.



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Tall Sedge

(Carex appressa)

80cm 60cm

Features: A large ornamental tussock grass with

attractive large yellow seed heads reaching up to one

metre high. Mass planting.



Knobby Club Rush

(Ficinia nodosa)

80cm 40cm

Features: A densely tufted perennial, leaf a brown

tubular sheath at the bottom of stiff cylindrical green

stem. Fruit a brownish globular cluster. Mass planting.

Grows Best In: Coastal areas, Boggy/damp areas

Wallaby Grass

(Austrodanthoria caespitosa)

20-40cm

Features: Variable perennial tussock, normally robust

with distinctive white fluffy seed heads.



Twiggy Daisy Bush

(Olearia ramulosa)

50cm-2.5m

Features: Leaves rather crowded, narrow, sometimes

sticky, white or blue/mauve daisy type flower heads

along branches.

Flowering/seeding time: Sep - May


Chocolate Lily

(Anthropodium strictum)

60cm

20-80cm

Features: Grass like perennial tuft with attractive

chocolate-scented flowers born singly on branched

flowering stems. Mass planting.



Button Everlasting

(Helichrysum scorpioides)

50cm

Features: Perennial everlasting daisy, grow in well

drained soil.



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Running Postman

(Kennedia prostrata)

10cm

Features: Large prostrate stems with grey-green leaves

forms a matt often 1-2m across (groundcover).

Flowering/seeding time: May - Oct


Black Anther Flax-Lily

(Dianella revoluta)

30cm-1m

50cm-2.5m

Features: A robust clump of blue-grey strap leaves with

clusters of blue flowers on branched stems above and

among foliage. Mass planting.



Bulbine Lily

(Bulbine bulbosa)

45cm 30cm

Features: A robust yellow flowered perennial lily with

flowers on a tall stem above the tufted onion type

leaves, is poisonous to stock in large doses. Mass

planting.


Dieback: Summer

Blue Pincushion

(Brunoinia australis)

50cm 15cm

Features: A beautiful perennial herb with distinctive

corn-flower blue heads of flowers above a small basel

rosette of silky green leaves. Mass planting.



Billy Button

(Craspedia variabilis)

50cm 30cm

Features: Tall or spreading woody shrub, branching at

the base with golden-yellow globular flower heads

borne on the ends of leafy woolly branches. Mass

planting.



Yam Daisy

(Microseris lanceolata)

50cm

Features: Tufted perennial herb with large yellow

dandelion like flowers on stems above basel leaves,

rising annually from fleshy root. Mass planting.



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Austral Storksbill

(Pelagonium austrate)

50cm

Features: Tall to semi prostrate downy perennial herb,

flowers are pink to white with purplish veins arranged in

clusters. Mass planting.



Hoary Sunray

(Leucochrysum albicans)

Features: A tufted, silvery perennial herb with narrow

woolly leaves and masses of white papery daisy

flowers with yellow centres. Mass planting.

Flowering/seeding time: Aug/Dec - Mar


Grass Trigger Plant

(Stylidium graminifolium)

30-40cm

20-30cm

Features: Perennial with grass like leaves and long

spike of pink flowers. Mass planting.




Milky Beauty Heads

(Calocephalus lacteus)

40cm

Features: Sprawling perennial with grey leaves and

white, oblong flower heads.


Lemon Beauty Heads

(Calocephalus citreus)

50cm

30-60cm

Features: Attractive perennial with narrow, silvery

leaves and elongated yellow flower heads.


Die back: Summer

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Lilly Pilly

(Acmena smithii var.)

5m

Features: Evergreen rainforest plants with glossy green

leaves. Colourful brilliant pink to red-brown new

growth. Flowers followed by berries in Spring to

Summer. Good as screens, hedges and topiary.

Flowering/seeding time: Nov - Feb

Grows: Across the Shire

Soft Tree Fern

(Dicksonia antarctica)

2-12m

Features: Terrestrial ferns that have a hairy trunk with

large spreading fronds.


Rough Tree Fern

(Cyathea australis)

5-15m

Features: A hardy, slow growing, long lived tree fern.


Cut Leafed Daisy

(Brachysomes mulifida)

60cm 40cm

Features: Mass planting, groundcover, small daisy

flowers during the warmer months of the year, winter it

will have a few white, pink, mauve or blue flowers.



Birthday Candles Banksia

(Banksia spinulosa)

50cm 50-60cm

Features: Mass planting, a compact, dwarf shrub, neat

dark foliage, bearing massed displays of nectar rich

golden orange candles in late summer to winter.

Flowering/seeding time: Summer - Winter


Grevillea species

Features: Flowers are quite small but occur in

clusters (an inflorescent) which, in some species, may

consist of 100 or more individuals and attract honey

eating birds.

Flowering/seeding time: Winter to early Spring


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Native Rosemary

(Westringia fruticosa)

2m 5m

Features: Small white flowers for most of the year, salt

tolerant, frost resistant down to -7

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c, often mass planted

and used as clipped hedge. Small screening plant, full

sun/part shade, prune to shape.

Flowering/seeding time: November


Lemon Scented Gum

(Corymbia Citriodora)

20m

Features: Light grey or white trunk, the leaves give off a

strong lemon scent when crushed and has clusters of

white flowers for long periods.



Kangaroo Paw

(Anigozanthos)

60cm 60cm

Features: Mass planting, strappy leaved, clumping

plants, flowers occur in clusters.



Hop Bush

(Dodonaea spp.)

1-4m

Features: Spreading shrub, leaves are sticky leathery,

the foliage is evergreen with the leaf shape usually

spatulate (spoon shaped).



Bottlebrush

(Callistemon species)

0.5-4cm

Features: Woody shrubs with flowers which are

irresistible to nextar feeding birds and insects. Most

species are frost tolerant.



Fringe Myrtle

(Calytrix tetragona)

60cm

Features: Often described as heath-like, with small

narrow leaves and thin lightweight branches, aromatic

foliage and young stems. Flowers white or pink,

clustered along the arching branches.

Flowering/seeding time: October


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Happy Wonderer

(Hardenbergia violacea)

Features: Leathery, dark green leaves and pea shaped

purple flowers. Also white, pink and mauve flowered

forms.

Flowering/seeding time: Winter - Spring


Weeping Grass

(Microlaena stipoides)

Features: Mass planting, weeping grass remains green

throught the year. Common name is based on the

weeping nature of the seedhead, is drought tolerant

and frost hardy.

Flowering/seeding time: Summer - Autumn


Clustered Everlasting

(Chrysocephalum semipapposum)

50-80cm 1cm

Features: Grey to green leaves which vary in width

from quite fine to a coarser leaved form, has clusters of

small yellow flowers.



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Corangamite Shire Council

181 Manifold Street, Camperdown VIC 3260

Tel: 03 5593 7100

Fax: 03 5593 2695

www.corangamite.vic.gov.au

Corangamite CMA

www.ccma.vic.gov.au

Glenelg Hopkins CMA

www.glenelg-hopkins.vic.gov.au

Sustainability Victoria

www.sustainability.vic.gov.au

Our Water Our Future

www.ourwater.vic.gov.au

resourceSMART

www.resourcesmart.vic.gov.au

Weeds Online

www.weeds.gov.au

Gardening Australia, Habitat Gardening - attracting

wildlife to your garden, Peter Grant, Reprinted Feb

2008, ABC Books

Gardening Australia, Recycle your Garden - the

essential guide to composting, Tim Marshall,

Reprinted Feb 2008, ABC Books

Gardening Australia, No-Dig Gardening - how to

create an instant, low maintenance garden, Allen

Gilbert, Reprinted Feb 2008, ABC Books

Gardening Australia, Organic Vegetable Gardening,

Annette McFarlane, Reprinted Feb 2008, ABC Books

Sustainable Gardening Australia

www.sgaonline.org.au

Frogs Australia

www.frogs.org.au

Greening Australia

www.greeningaustralia.org.au

Wannon Water

www.wannonwater.com.au

Oz Trees

569 Warrowie Rd, Irrewarre

Tel: 5233 6280

Email: [email protected]

www.oztrees.com.au

Pearsons Nursery

19 Grauers Rd, Allansford

Tel: 5565 1605


www.pearsonsnursery.com.au

Allansforest

4865 Great Ocean Rd, Allansforest

Tel: 5566 3254


Ballarat Wild Plants

Tel: 5333 5548

Camperdown Compost Company

4195 Pricess Hwy, Camperdown

Tel: 5593 3737

www.campcompco.com.au

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More information |

Documents

Sustainable Gardening in Corangamite...how best to integrate safe habitat for wildlife. Habitat for birds Having a wide variety of plants is the best way to attract a range of birds,