Supercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye …lynxpowerengineering.co.uk/sckitguidelines.pdfSupercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye [XU10 J4RS Engine] Installation Guidelines

Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye Supercharger Kit Installation GuidelinesIssue 1 [070108]

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Supercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye

[XU10 J4RS Engine]

Installation Guidelines

By

Lynx Garage

Unit 2/25C

Brockhampton Lane

Havant

Hampshire

PO9 1JT

Telephone/Fax: 02392 499031

Email: [email protected]

Web: www.lynxpowerengineering.co.uk


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Introduction

The kit is designed to enable fitment of the Rotrex C30 series of centrifugal superchargers to the XU10J4RS engine. It could also be adapted to fit other XU10 engines, although this is done at your own risk and at this stage we are unable to assist with the process of adapting the kit to fit engines other than the XU10J4RS.

The kit is designed to boost power from 167 BHP to 230-400 BHP. Large increases in torque can also be achieved. The power achievable depends highly on the engines compression ratio and internal specification; as this governs the maximum boost pressure that can be used safely.


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Low Boost Fitment for Standard Engines (230-260 BHP)

On a standard engine, a maximum boost of 7-8 PSI is recommended; due to the XU10J4RS’s high static compression ratio of 10.8:1. With this in mind, with a boost level of 7-8 PSI, approximately 230-260 BHP is achievable. The exact power achieved depends on a number of items, including:

Intercooler efficiency – larger intercoolers will remove more heat from the boost, and also generate less pressure loss across the intercooler. The boost pipework and bend radius of any corners will also affect the pressure loss between the supercharger and engine. Although extremely difficult due to the space constraints of the 306 engine bay, sharp changes indirection in the boost pipework should be avoided. A minimum pipework diameter of 2” is recommended.

Exhaust system backpressure – The faster you can get exhaust gases out of the cylinders, the faster fresh charge can fill them. A minimum exhaust pipework diameter of 2.25” is recommended; removal of the catalytic converter will also give substantial power gains and is recommended in any case. Exhaust back pressure is less critical in forced induction engines. Some back pressure is required for naturally aspirated engines to achieve the pulse effect, a process through which the exhaust gasses from one cylinder are used to help draw the exhaust gasses out of the sequential cylinder.

Fuel octane rating. The XU10J4RS uses active knock detection to alert the ECU of detonation/pre-ignition within the cylinders. The higher the octane of fuel, the less prone to detonation it is. Running a higher octane fuel allows the ignition timing to be advanced before detonation occurs. The ECU has the capability to retard/advance ignition timing to cater for different fuel qualities. The more ignition advance, the more power. Always use the best quality fuel you can. Prolonged detonation within the cylinders can crack pistons and destroy an engine quickly.

Engine condition – generally the most important factor here is the condition of the bores/piston rings and their sealing properties. An engine with good compression will generate more power than an engine with lost compression. If you have concerns over the condition of your engine, a compression/leak down test is a good place to start. Other sources of high leak down include valves and valve seats and failed head gaskets.

Many other factors affect power, including camshaft timing, condition of the fuel system, the type of oil used etc; however these are unlikely to be an issue if your engine is currently performing well in standard form. It is recommended to diagnose and fix any running problems before fitting the Supercharger Kit.


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High Boost Conversion for Low Compression Engines (350-400 BHP)

Should you wish to achieve a higher power level, more boost will be required, and for this to function safely you need to lower the compression ratio and increase the strength of the engine. The largest of the Rotrex C30 series superchargers (C30-94) is capable of delivering a maximum of ~18-20 PSI of boost on the XU10J4RS engine. At this level of boost, 350-400 BHP is achievable depending on intercooler size, exhaust, fuel system and other parameters as mentioned previously.

To achieve greater than 230-260 BHP, the following internal upgrades are recommended:

Forged low-compression aluminium pistons. Brands available include Wossner, IASA, IAPEL, and Wiseco. Many other manufacturers are out there and would be more than willing to make custom pistons if they are not available ‘off the shelf’. Avoid increasing the bore beyond 87mm, or the wall thickness between cylinders is compromised. 86.5mm pistons are generally the best bet – a rebore will be required which will ensure proper ring sealing, and little strength will be lost in the cylinder walls. Compression ratio depends on many factors, such as the octane rating of the fuel you intend to use, but as a guideline we recommend a compression ratio of 8.0:1 –8.5:1 if you intend to run the charger at maximum duty and reach a peak boost of 18-20 PSI.

Lynx Garage are suppliers of Wossner and IASA pistons.

Wossner low-compression forged alloy pistons


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Forged pistons fitted to block

Forged steel conrods. Brands available include Wossner, Arrow Precision, Cat Cams and Saenz. As per the pistons many firms exist capable of making the conrods if you can supply them a standard conrod as a sample.

Lynx Garage are suppliers of Wossner and Saenz conrods.

Forged piston fitted to forged steel con-rod with ARP bolts


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Uprated con-rod bolts. These should be supplied with the above, and are generally made by ARP. ARP manufactures two bolt compounds, ARP2000, and L19. L19 is the most desirable and stronger.

High performance bearings. Performance bearings (generally bi-metal or tri-metal construction) offer increased durability over the aluminium OE Peugeot bearings. They are available from Richard Longman & Co, Christchurch.

Other modifications such as performance camshafts are not required to generate big power.

The hydraulic cam followers should be replaced for solid followers/shims if you intend to raise the rev-limit past 7800 RPM (to avoid valve float and hydraulic lifter pump-up).

Lightening/balancing of components should not be required. The pistons/conrods should come as a balanced set. I do not recommend removing any material, or ‘knife edging’ the crankshaft. Knife edging of the crankshaft will reduce oil throw, which is extremely important for keeping the bores cool and well lubricated, and it is extremely hard to properly rebalance a crankshaft. Knife edging may also compromise the strength of the crankshaft.

Cylinder head porting or polishing is not recommended.

Fuel pressure regulator – if your going for 375-400 BHP you will need to increase the fuel pressure from 3 BAR to 4 BAR; this because the injectors will be running out of duty-cycle at the top end of the rev-range on standard fuel pressure. A universal style regulator can be used, such as FSE boost valve, or a 4 BAR Bosch regulator can be fitted to your fuel rail. These can be found on VW Golf VR6’s, or bought new from Bosch dealers, eBay etc.

Bosch 4 BAR Fuel Pressure Regulator

Fuel pump – the standard fuel pump should flow enough for ~250 BHP. For more than this, an upgrade is required. There are two options – upgrade the in-tank pump with a Walbro 255 LPH unit, which can be shoe-horned into the standard pump casing, alternatively use the standard in-tank pump to feed a fuel swirl pot, with a Walbro 255 LPH pump running from the fuel swirl pot to the engine. The latter is the best option if the car is to be used on track, as the fuel swirl pot prevents fuel surge/starvation. Walbro fuel pumps are available through many tuning companies and eBay.


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Walbro 255 LPH pump fitted into standard fuel pump casing


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Walbro 255 LPH pump fitted into standard fuel pump casing


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Custom made stainless-steel swirl pot for use with Walbro 255LPH external pump

Swirl pot and pump installed in place of spare wheel


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Clutch – the standard clutch will cope with 400 BHP and over 250 ft/lbs of torque, however if you intend to drag race/track the car an upgrade is recommended, for longetivity more than performance. Several manufacturers offer clutch upgrades, including OMP, Helix Autosport and AP Racing.

Lynx Garage is able to supply Helix Autosport products.

For All Conversions

Larger fuel injectors are required to supply the additional fuel required to mix with the air pumped into the engine by the supercharger. When replacing the injectors, you must ensure they are high impedance or they will not be compatible with the standard ECU. The recommended upgrade is Bosch 440cc/min injectors, Bosch part no. is 0 280 150 558. These are capable of flowing enough for 350 BHP on standard fuel pressure (3 BAR) or 400 BHP with fuel pressure increased to 4 BAR. These are available in the UK, although are more common in the US. They are used by Ford Motorsport, and often sold under a Ford Motorsport part no. which is M-9593-F302. They are 440cc or 42lb/hr and lime green in colour. They can be bought from eBay Motors and other US based tuning websites.

Bosch/Ford Racing 440CC injectors

We recommend running ‘colder’ spark plugs. All spark plugs have a heat reference within their part no, although different manufacturers use different numbering systems. The heat grade refers to the thermal conductivity of the spark plug, and how it transfers heat from the electrode into surrounding components. Colder plugs retain less heat, allowing surrounding materials (such as cylinder head) to absorb and dissipate more heat. The standard heat grade used on the XU10J4RS is 6. We would recommend using a grade 7 plug (higher number = cooler). Both of these numbers relate to NGK sparkplugs. The colder plugs help keep cylinder/chamber temperatures down, and help reduce hot spots. This is another step forward in eliminating piston-destroying detonation/pre-ignition.

www.sparkplugs.co.uk offer excellent service and a superb range of spark plugs.


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We also recommend using the best oil you can afford. Our oil of choice is Royal Purple Racing 51. Royal Purple is a true motorsport derived company; hence it is relatively unheard of in the ‘tuning’ industry. Racing 51 is 10W50 grade fully synthetic oil with an exceptional life span. It can last up to 12,000 miles even under motorsport conditions. It also has a film strength up to 400% stronger than other well renowned performance oils. In our view film strength is the most important factor; it’s what prevents bearing surfaces touching, avoiding metal-to-metal contact, and therefore prevents terminal failure. The downside to Royal Purple products is price; Racing 51 is ~£16 + VAT per litre. Although it may cost over £100 for an oil change, it’s cheaper than a new bottom-end.

Royal Purple products are available through Lynx Garage.


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Installing the Supercharger Kit

The scope of this document is to provide guidelines for essentially bolting the kit to the engine; it does not cover, nor is intended to cover any aspect of engine building or performing internal modifications. In addition to this document, we recommend you have a Haynes Manual for the Peugeot 306. Although it does not strictly cover the GTi-6, it provides a lot of useful information on the other XU10 engined models that can be applied to the GTi-6.

This guide is not to be considered complete instructions - it purely offers guidelines and assumes a reasonable level of mechanical competence and some mechanical background knowledge.

The installation of the kit can be completed with the engine in place; there is no need to remove it. If you wish to upgrade the internals of the engine and run a high boost conversion, it is probably easier to remove the engine, fit the new internals and supercharger kit, and then reinstall it fully assembled. Lynx Garage are able to offer a fitting service tailored to your specification, please contact us if you wish to discuss.

Kit Contents

The kit should contain the following:

Inlet Manifold – constructed from TIG welded 6082 T6 alloy sections. Supercharger Bracket – Laser profiled steel plate, with zinc + colour passivate finish. Supplied

with 6082 T6 alloy guide and tensioner pulley.

PAS Pump Brackets – Laser profiled steel plates, with zinc + colour passivate finish. Supplied assembled on mounting studs with nuts/washers.

PAS Pump Hoses – 1 off short hose with swaged compression fittings; 1 off long hose, plain rubber.

Inlet Adaper for Rotrex C30-94 Supercharger – machined from billet 6082 T6 alloy.

MAP/ICV Housing – machined from billet 6082 T6 alloy – to fit GTI-6 throttle body & sensors.

Air Scoop – folded alloy air scoop

Boost Control Ring – Laser profiled 38.00 I.D steel ring to control boost for low boost applications.

Throttle body blanking plate – to fit GTI-6 throttle body

Bag of fastenings

Drive belt

Also Needed:

In addition to the above, you will also need:

Rotrex C30-94 Supercharger & oil-circuit

Setrab/Mocal oil cooler for above

Bosch 440CC injectors


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Intercooler

Boost pipework for above – alloy tube/silicone connectors as required

Brackets to mount oil cooler/intercooler

Soldering iron/cable connectors/heat-shrink tube for wiring modifications

Stripping Out

To enable you to fit the Supercharger Kit, some components need to be removed from the engine to make space and in some cases to be modified.

You need to remove:

Front bumper, grille, hockey-stick shaped under headlight trim, headlights, front panel, fan cowling, A/C condenser [if applicable] and radiator. Removing these components will allow clear access to the engine. The kit can be fitted without removing the complete front end, however this method is a lot less fiddly and much quicker. Removal of the components above is generic across the entire 306 range, and is covered in the Haynes Manual. Note, you will need to get your A/C degassed if it’s pressurised prior to removing the condenser, pump, or any pipework.

As shown below removal of the front end allows easy access to the front of the engine, where the majority of the installation will take place.

Stripping of front end allows easy access to engine

Inlet manifold and supporting brackets. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

PAS pump (the fluid needs to be drained from the reservoir to avoid spillage when the pipework is removed). Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.


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Power steering cooling pipe [circled in red in photo below] – this is the steel tube that runs along the front chassis cross member, then back on itself. It is completely unnecessary; and removing it will make piping you intercooler much easier. It will also save some weight. Don’t throw this pipe away – part of it can be cut off and used to re-join the flexible rubber PAS hoses in lieu of the steel PAS cooling pipe. It is a simple case of cutting a suitably angled/length of the steel pipe, and re-joining the two rubber hoses it was previously connected to. The existing hose clips can be re-used on the same joints.

PAS cooling pipe to be removed


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A small section of the PAS cooling pipe removed above needs to be cut off and used to re-join the two rubber PAS hoses circled here:

A small section of the PAS cooling pipe can be used to re-join hoses

Alternator. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

Air conditioning pump, condenser, and associated pipework. The pipework can be stripped back to the bulkhead and then capped off/bunged as necessary. In order to allow the pipework to be removed, it may be necessary to remove the upper left engine mounting; this allows the engine to be pulled forward to gain better access around the bulkhead. Refer to Haynes Manual for further detail. If you may revert to having A/C at any stage, or want to save your self some work, you can leave the main A/C pipe in place. This is the one that runs behind the engine, into the bulkhead, and is quite awkward to remove. It can be split at the joints [special tool required] to enable the rest of the pipework that runs to the pump/condenser to be removed. The drier unit [small canister near PAS reservoir] can also be left in place if desired. Any pipework left in place should be bunged/capped off to prevent the rest of the system getting contaminated.

It’s possible to perform the supercharger conversion and retain the A/C, however this is somewhat more complicated, and not covered in detail within this document. The basic process for retaining the A/C is to leave the A/C pump mounted on the sump instead of relocating the PAS pump here, and then find an alternative solution for the PAS. The first solution is obvious –remove it. The second solution is to fit an EPAS (Electronic Power Assisted Steering) pump. Instead of requiring drive from the auxiliary belt, as the name suggest these pumps are electronic. This is very useful, because they can be mounted almost anywhere. The EPAS pumps are readily available, and a pump from a Peugeot 106 or Citroen Saxo would be ideal. The associated wiring harness/relays are also needed from the donor-car. These pumps are non-variable rate, two-wire, which makes installation easy. Avoid using variable rate EPAS systems from the Peugeot 307 etc as the electrical installation of this would be somewhat more complicated. The best solution for locating the EPAS pump is to relocate the battery to the boot, and then mount the pump where the battery tray would sit. New hydraulic hoses can be made easily and many companies exist that offer this service – Hyphose and Think Automotive are two examples.


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Modification of Ancillaries Bracket

Once the ancillaries above have been removed, you need to remove the ancillaries mounting bracket. This is the large cast iron bracket that is bolted to the block that the alternator etc is mounted on. Before this can be removed, the upper-left engine mount needs to be removed, and the engine supported from underneath, refer to Haynes Manual for further detail.

Once the bracket has been removed, it needs to have the PAS mounting lugs removed to make clearance for the supercharger. This can be done with an angle grinder, or if you have lots of time on your hands, a hacksaw. The quickest and easiest option is to take the bracket to a local engineering/steelwork/welding company; they should have a plasma cutter which will make short work of removing the lugs. Once removed the sawn edges can be filed smooth, and the bracket repainted if required.

The photo below shows the PAS mounting lugs which need to be removed from the ancillary’s bracket. The cut line shown is not critical but indicative – as long as the 3 mounting bolt holes are left in place, and the there is sufficient clearance for the supercharger, it will be OK.

Tippex indicates approximate cut-line


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Whilst the bracket is off, it is also to a good idea to run a thread cleaner/tap down the supercharger bracket mounting holes with some WD40 as lubricant/cleaner. The reason for this is, in addition to being good practice, is one of the threads is unused on the standard engine, so is bound to be corroded. After cleaning the threads, you also need to check the length of the mounting bolts; the 4 mounting points have varying thread depths, the bolts supplied will need to be cut to the appropriate length. The reason for this is the bolts can only be purchased in standard lengths. The bolt lengths can be checked by screwing them into the ancillaries bracket without the supercharger bracket attached. Ensure the bolts can screw into the bracket to leave 8mm or less [supercharger bracket thickness] between the bolt head and face of the casting.


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The photo below identifies the supercharger bracket mounting points. The threads need to be cleaned, and the bolts supplied cut to the appropriate length.

Mounting point threads should be cleaned

Once the ancillaries bracket is finished, it can be bolted back onto the engine. Installation is a reversal of removal; and should be covered in the Haynes Manual. It is also a good idea to use threadlock for these bolts; and ensure they are torqued up correctly.

Re-fit the alternator – refer to Haynes Manual for further details and torque settings.

Mounting the Supercharger Bracket

The supercharger bracket can now be mounted. Ensure a washer is placed under the head of each bolt. It is recommend threadlock is used on assembly; to prevent loosening of bolts due to vibration. The mounting torque of the supercharger bracket bolts should be 25 n/m.

Please note at this stage the bracket should be fitted bare without the guide pullies – this allows access to the supercharger mounting bolt holes.

Fitting the Shortened Inlet Manifold

A new gasket should be used, and ensure the cylinder head face is thoroughly cleaned and all traces of the old gasket are removed prior to installation. New mounting bolts are supplied with the manifold. These must be used as the original bolts won’t leave enough thread in the cylinder head. Two lengths of mounting bolt are supplied as follows:

M8 x 40mm Socket Cap – 3 no. These shorter bolts should be used for the counter-bored mounting holes at the top of the cylinder head flange – circled in red in the photo below:


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Shorter bolts are to be used on counter-bored holes

M8 x 50mm Socket Cap – 5 no. These are for the remaining holes, where the mounting flange is full thickness (25mm).

Washers are also supplied, and should be fitted where possible. Washers can’t be used on all bolts due to the limited space.

The bolts need to be torqued up to 25 n/m with a 6mm allen key socket. Due to the awkward angles, suitable socket extension bars/flexible couplings should be used. The best solution is to use a ball-nosed allen key socket which are readily available from all major tool supplies. This allows the bolts to be torqued up from awkward angles without rounding off the bolt.

The bolts should be torqued up evenly; starting from the centre mountings and working outwards.

Once the manifold is torqued up, the fuel rail can be mounted. When fitting the injectors into the bores in the manifold/fuel rail use a little silicone grease/Vaseline on the ‘O’ rings; this makes fitting easier and prevents the ‘O’ rings pinching/splitting. It’s best to fit the injectors into the manifold first, one by one, then install the fuel rail/injector clips once all injectors are in position.Torque the fuel rail mounting bolts (M6/10mm hex-head) to 8 n/m. A washer should be used under the head of each bolt.

The dipstick will require careful manipulation into a suitable location to clear the new inlet manifold. The position is not critical – it just needs to be accessible. The best location is as per standard, somewhere between the manifold cylinder runners.


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Trim the vacuum hose to a suitable length and connect it to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and the brass elbow fitted to the manifold end-plate, as shown in the photo below:

Trim FPR vacuum hose to length and connect as above


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Trim the brake servo pump vacuum hose to length (the brake servo pump is located on the flywheel end of the exhaust camshaft). The vacuum hose is 10mm Ø hard plastic, and can be cut with a sharp knife. The hose needs to trimmed appropriately to fit in the push-fit union fitted to the back of the manifold plenum chamber, as shown in the photo below:

Trim brake servo pump hose to length and connect as above


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Preparing the Throttle Body

The kit has been designed to utilise the standard GTi-6 Solex Throttle body, however it needs to be modified before use on the supercharged engine.

The throttle cable support bracket needs to be removed. This is held on by 3 small screws at the rear of the throttle body.

Remove existing throttle cable arm

The breather and pre-heater assembly needs to be removed from the front of the throttle body. This is also held on by 3 small screws.

Now is the ideal time to give the throttle body a thorough clean. All traces of old gasket should also be removed.

Remove any locating dowels that are stuck in the throttle body mounting holes.


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The throttle body breather blanking plate now needs to be fitted. This is the 1.6mm thick laser-cut aluminium plate supplied with your Supercharger Kit. It replaces the breather/pre-heater assembly removed previously. New Mounting screws are provided. This needs to be sealed against the throttle body to prevent air-leaks. The plate should be covered in a generous layer of silicone-type sealant and then bolted in place – ensure the throttle body is clean prior to using the sealant to ensure proper bonding. Trim off any excess sealant once cured. Please see the photo below.

Fit throttle body blanking plate as above


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Rotating the Supercharger Compressor Housing

Prior to fitting the supercharger to the bracket; the compressor housing needs to be rotated so the outlet pipe if facing the right way, it can be rotated in 60˚ increments. The position should be self explanatory, the photo below shows setting out of the supercharger compressor housing. Please refer to the Rotrex C30 Series Supercharger Instruction Manual for guidance on rotating the compressor housing. This is available to download at www.rotrex.com if not supplied with your supercharger.

Ensure compressor housing is orientated as above


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Once the compressor housing is located correctly on the supercharger, fit the supercharger to its mounting bracket. It is only fitted for test purposes at this stage, and has to be subsequently removed, so don’t bother thread-locking the bolts. The mounting points are circled in red below:

Temporarily fit supercharger to bracket


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Fitting the Inlet Adapter to Compressor Housing

Prior to fitting the Inlet Adapter to the supercharger compressor housing, it first needs to be bolted to the MAP/ICV housing along with the Throttle Body prepared previously. Extra-long bolts are provided for this with the Supercharger Kit. Ensure a washer is used under the head of each bolt. Just do the bolts finger-tight for now; again this is just for test purposes and everything will have to be reassembled later. Please refer to the photos below to ensure everything is bolted together in the right order and orientated correctly. Please see the photos below:

Inlet Adapter/MAP & ICV housing assembled with throttle body


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Inlet Adapter/MAP & ICV housing assembled with throttle body


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Once you have the complete assembly of inlet components as above, offer it up against the supercharger compressor housing on the engine. The purpose of this test-assembly to ensure it gets pressed on at the right angle - so the throttle body cable pivot lines up with the throttle cable support bracket on the Inlet Manifold. This is not that critical; you have a generous tolerance to play with. Just make sure the throttle cable has a nice route from the support bracket on the Inlet Manifold to the cable retaining pivot on top of the throttle body.

Please refer to the photos below demonstrating throttle cable route and orientation of the complete inlet assembly in relation to the supercharger compressor housing.

Ensure there is a direct route for throttle cable between manifold bracket/throttle body


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Ensure there is a direct route for throttle cable between manifold bracket/throttle body

Once you are happy with the orientation and throttle cable route, pen on a reference mark to both the supercharger compressor housing and Inlet Adapter.

Reference mark in red


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Remove the throttle body and MAP/ICV housing from the Inlet Adapter.

Remove the supercharger from its mounting bracket and remove the compressor housing.

The Inlet Adapter now needs to be driven onto the compressor housing, ensuring the reference marks remain aligned. The parts have been engineered to give a light interference fit.

The Inlet Adapter can be driven on using a press, or using a large vice carefully. If a vice is used, soft aluminium jaws should be fitted to prevent damage to either part. The parts should slide together with relative ease. Please see photo below:

Inlet Adaptor needs to be pressed onto the compressor housing

Despite being engineered for a light interference fit, there may be some deviation from this due to both the compressor housing and Inlet Adapter being machined to a tolerance.

If you find the fit is too loose, the Inlet Adapter will need welding to the compressor housing. This can be done via Lynx Garage, or any fabrication/welding company if required, and should cost no more than £20.

The fit is unlikely to be too tight; however you may struggle if you are using a vice. If this is the case, a press is required. This can be done via Lynx Garage, or any other garage/engineering firm.

In any case, the Inlet Adapter should be driven onto the compressor housing until it is fully seated in the counter-bore.


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Once the above is complete, the remaining ‘Inlet Assembly’ parts can be re-fitted. This includes the boost control ring (if applicable), MAP/ICV housing, and throttle body. A thin layer of silicone type sealant should be used on all mating faces. Once assembled, fit the MAP sensor and ICV as per the photo’s below:

Fitting of MAP sensor and ICV


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Boost Control Ring

The boost control ring is designed to straddle air entering the compressor housing, and offers an effective means of controlling the peak boost delivered by the supercharger. The boost control ring, of the correct size, must be fitted for the low boost conversion where an internally standard engine is used. Failure to do so may result in terminal failure of your engine. A boost control ring is to be supplied, as part of your kit, and its aperture size has been carefully selected and tested to give a safe level of peak boost for those wishing to use an internally standard engine. The boost control ring supplied with the kit is 38.0mm I.D and should give a peak boost of ~7-8 PSI when:

An 85mm Ø supercharger pulley is used. The engine rev limit does not exceed 7400 RPM The engine is internally standard. Boost pipework is 51-63mm (2 - 2½”) diameter) An intercooler is fitted of suitable size

The specification above has been carefully developed and selected; it should not be deviated from if you intend to use our ECU flashing service and run our 250 BHP software. Should you wish to deviate from the outline specification above, a custom live remap will be required, to ensure fuel and ignition values are safe.

The boost control ring [if applicable] needs to be fitted into the Inlet Adapter, and is sandwiched in place by the ICV/MAP housing. Please refer to the photos below.

Boost control ring circled in red


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Boost control ring fitted to Inlet Adaptor & MAP/ICV housing


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Wiring Modifications

The fitment of the shortened inlet manifold and other components which form the Supercharger Fitment Kit means some sensors will move from their original locations. The engine wiring harness will require extending where there is insufficient length to reach therelocated sensors. The following sensors are relocated, and the wiring harness will need extending as necessary:

MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) ICV (Idle Control Valve) IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) TPS (Throttle Position Switch)

In some cases, it may be possible to re-route branches of the wiring harness to suit the new sensor locations; extension may not be required in every case.

When extending the wiring harness, all joints should be soldered together, and a small length of heat-shrink tube placed over each joint. The wires can then be placed back into the plastic conduit/wrapped in insulation tape as necessary. If possible, crimp style connectors should be avoided; soldering is preferred as the joint is less likely to come apart, corrode or damage the wires.

All wires are colour coded, and numbered at both the sensor and ECU end with a 3 digit number. Ensure the wires don’t get muddled up in the extension process. The extension wire used should be a similar gauge to the existing.

Fitting the Supercharger

The supercharger compressor housing complete with ‘Inlet Assembly’ can then be re-fitted to the supercharger head unit.

Supercharger and ‘inlet assembly’ fitted to engine

The supercharger can now be mounted to the bracket, using the four M6 mounting bolts supplied with the supercharger. Use a little threadlock on the bolts, and tighten the bolts up evenly and progressively. The bolts are 5mm socket cap and should be torqued to 9 n/m. Do not over-tighten – you will strip the thread in the compressor housing; which will then need to be replaced or heli-coiled. For more detail please refer to the Rotrex official installation manual, available from www.rotrex.com


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Mounting the Supercharger Bracket Guide/Tensioner Pulley

Once the supercharger is mounted, the pullies can be installed on the supercharger bracket. The pullies are supplied with mounting bolts. Ensure a pulley mounting washer is placed under the head of each bolt. One of the pullies is located in a grove; and acts as a manual tensioner. Until the belt is fitted, temporarily place this pulley in the centre point of the groove; it can be finely adjusted when the belt is fitted. Threadlock should be used on pulley mounting bolts except where nyloc nuts are used. The mounting bolts should be torqued to 25 n/m.

M8 pulley bolts circled in red


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Connecting EVAP Hose

The EVAP hose use to be terminated to the throttle body breather plate, which has now been blanked. The MAP/ICV housing has a ¼ BSP 90 degree brass elbow to which the EVAP hose can be connected. Trim the hose to a suitable length; the re-connect using the original hose clips etc. Ensure the hose route is well clear of the supercharger pulley – the hose can be cable-tied out of the way if required. Please refer to the photo’s below:

EVAP hose and connections


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Installing Air Filters

Two air filters air supplied with the Supercharger Kit; a small breather filter for the ICV, and the main engine air filter. The can now be jubilee-clipped in position as per the photos. The breather filter needs to be oiled with the sachet provided; the engine filter is pre-oiled. Both filters are quality K&N items and should be maintained as per manufacturers instructions.

ICV and engine air filters fitted


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Installing the Supercharger Oil Circuit

The supercharger oil system now needs to be installed. Full instructions for this should be supplied with the supercharger, and are available to download from www.rotrex.com. In addition to the Rotrex instructions, the following may help:]

The supercharger oil reservoir can be mounted anywhere. We’ve found the easiest place to mount it is on the passenger side inner wing. See photo below.

Supercharger oil resevoir fitted to inner-wing


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The oil cooler does not come with the supercharger; although the rest of the oil circuit including reservoir, filter and pipework does. A small 10-row oil cooler is sufficient; Mocal and Setrab are generally regarded as the best. Lynx garage are able to supply both Mocal and Setrab coolers of all sizes.

The oil cooler can be mounted anywhere. We’ve found the easiest place to mount is to the right-hand-side of the radiator; orientated vertically; or mounted above the intercooler, mounted horizontally [dependant on intercooler size]. The oil cooler should not be mounted upside down.

Possible supercharger oil cooler mounting locations


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Mounting the Air Scoop

The Supercharger Kit includes an air-scoop. This can be mounted on the front-panel of the car aligned with the air filter. The purpose of this air-scoop is to divert hot air from the radiator away from the air filter, and force cold air from the grille/bonnet void down towards the air filter. The air-scoop is secured with 2 M8 bolts, requiring 8.5 or 9mm holes to be drilled in the front panel in a suitable location. See photo below:

Air scoop bolted to front panel


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Engine Breathers/Crankcase Ventilation

There are several options for venting crankcase gases with the supercharger conversion, as follows:

Use a miniature K&N style breather filter connected directly to the cam cover breather outlet [the breather outlet is the smaller diameter hose connection, the left hand of the two].

Connection to be used if using crankcase breather filter

Use an oil catch-tank. An oil catch tank can be used to condense the blow-by crankcase gases that are forced out of the rocker cover breather point. The good thing about an oil catch-tank is all contaminants found within the crankcase gases are isolated from the engine and collect in the tank; they can be then drained off at a later date. A catch-tank can be mounted anywhere in the engine bay and connected to the cam cover breather point with a suitable oil-vapour resistant hose. Plenty of information on oil-catch tanks can be found on the internet.


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Maintain the original crankcase ventilation route. The OE installation vents the gases back into the inlet system via the throttle body. To enable fitment of the Supercharger Kit, the throttle body breather connection is removed/blanked off. If you wish maintain this ventilation system, gases can be vented into the air filter in lieu of the throttle body. A 14mm ½“ BSP 90 degree elbow is included with the Supercharger Kit. A suitably sized hole can be drilled in the plain rubber end of the air filter, and the elbow screwed in. You can then connect the elbow to the cam cover breather point with a suitable oil-vapour resistant hose [not supplied].

Breathing crankcase gases into inlet system as per OE setup


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In any case, you need to keep the main crankcase ventilation pipework that runs from the block up to the right-hand-side cam cover hose connection [the larger of the two hose connections on the cam covers].


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PAS Pump Relocation – Mechanical Installation

The purpose of the PAS Pump Relocation Kit is to move the PAS Pump from its standard position at the top of the engine to the bottom of the engine. The kit was designed to create space at the top of the engine to enable fitment of the Supercharger. The kit can also be used to create space for individual throttle-body conversions, as large inlet trumpets/filters often foul the PAS Pump. The kit is designed for the XU10J4RS engine; however it will fit other XU engine providing they have the same lug layout on the sump.

The kit relocates the PAS Pump to the lug-mounts on the sump, in place of the air-conditioning (A/C) pump (fitted to GTi-6 only).

Ensure your sump has the later style [late Phase 2/all Phase 3] alloy top-hat bushes fitted to the lugs, as per the photo below. Earlier [Phase 1/early Phase 2] cars have a different style steel bush fitted. These cannot be used; and should be replaced with the aforementioned alloy bushes, available from Peugeot. The purpose of the bushes is to reduce the diameter of the sump lug-mounts to ~11mm; this makes the M10 mounting studs a snug fit in the lugs, and also creates the correct offset to align the PAS pump with the drive belt.

Top-hat bosses must be fitted to sump mounting lugs


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Assemble the PAS Bracket Assembly on the sump. The brackets should be assembled as they were supplied to you. The photo’s below also show the bracket and fastening configuration. Once the brackets are assembled on the sump as per the photos, the nuts can be tightened up. The nuts should be tightened from left to right, looking from the front of the engine (the nut welded to the stud being on the extreme left). So tighten the 1st lose nut against the welded nut, then tighten the 2nd and 3rd nuts against each other.

Note order of component assembly


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Do not over-tighten the nuts. They should be turned until contact with the adjacent surface, then a further half a turn.

Prior to mounting the PAS pump on the bracket assembly, it is necessary to adjust the position of the low-pressure input elbow on the pump. In order to determine the best possible position of the elbow, offer the pump up to the brackets in its new location. The inlet elbow needs to face directly upwards to accept the new feed pipe from the reservoir. The elbow is an interference fit in the pump housing. It can be rotated by mounting the pump in a vice, and inserting a suitably sized bar into or over the elbow, to provide some leverage to twist it. Please refer to the photo below:

PAS pump inlet must be twisted to face upwards


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Once you are happy the inlet elbow is suitably located, you can now mount the PAS Pump onto the bracket assembly. It should be bolted to the brackets in the 4 locations circled in the photo below. The original bolts can be used, or they can be replaced if you wish. The use of a little threadlock is recommended, and do not over tighten as you are bolting into soft aluminium.

Pump mounting holes that should be used are circled in red


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PAS Pump Relocation – Hydraulic Installation

High pressure hose. The relocation procedure retains the original high pressure PAS hose. This is the thin steel pipe. The hose however, does need some modification. The existing high pressure hose needs to be cut in two places, as per the photos below. The first cut needs to be made ~25mm past the outlet elbow that screws into the PAS pump, the second ~25mm before the PAS Pressure Switch (PSP). This can be identified easily – it is the sensor with a blue connector half way along the steel pipe. A hacksaw can be used to cut the pipe. Don’t worry about metal filings in the PAS system; the reservoir cap features a built in magnet to remove such contaminants. It may be necessary to loosen the high pressure PAS hose at its various fastening points to facilitate cutting. Once cut, use a file to de-burr the ends.

Note cut/join points for PAS high-pressure hose


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The new high pressure hoses bridges between the two cuts. It has compression fittings with olives that clamp over and seal against the existing steel tube. Place the new hose in position, and once you are happy with the location, the compression fittings can be tightened. At each end of the hose the two nuts need to be tightened against each other. Do not over tighten – once you feel contact ½ - ¾ turn should be sufficient.

Once the connections have been torqued up, reinstate and fastening points that wereloosened to facilitate cutting.

Low pressure hose. The low pressure hose is the rubber hose connected to the PAS fluid reservoir; it is ~¾” diameter. Again, the relocation retains part of the original hose. Cut the original rubber hose where indicated by the photo below.

Cutting and extending of existing low-pressure PAS hose


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Insert the 90˚ plastic elbow into the existing hose. The elbow should be orientated so it faces downwards towards the PAS pump.

Join the new low pressure hose to the other side of the 90˚ elbow. The new low pressure hose then needs to be fed down towards the PAS pump; and needs to be connected to the upwards facing inlet elbow. The hose will probably need trimming to length for the perfect fit.

Once you are happy with the fit, secure both connections to the 90˚ elbow, and the connection to the pump inlet elbow with the jubilee clips provided.

Cutting and extending of existing low-pressure PAS hose

The PAS reservoir can now be refilled.

Upon first use, check for leaks.


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Fitting the Drive Belt

The photos below identify the path of the supercharger drive-belt. The path is unchanged from the OE installation; albeit the supercharger has been installed in place of the PAS pump, and the PAS pump has been installed in place of the A/C pump.

Fit the belt as per Haynes Manual. Please note, the supercharger is fitted with an 8-rib pulley; the 6-rib belt should be placed over the ribs nearest the supercharger as per the photos below:

Drivebelt path shown above


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Drivebelt must be located on inner-most 6 ribs

The belt used to drive the supercharger is a 6-rib Micro-V belt, as used on the OE setup. The length has been selected to suit the changes and addition of the supercharger. The length supplied with this kit is 1560mm and should be the correct length assuming:

A 85mm diameter pulley is used on the supercharger

The PAS pump has been relocated using the brackets supplied with this kit

There are no other changes to the auxiliary belt setup such as under drive/over drive crankshaft/alternator pullies etc.

The supercharger bracket features a manually adjustable tensioner, and the OE automatic tensioner is maintained also. This gives some flexibility regarding belt length. If you’re finding the belt too tight, loosen the manual tensioner mounting bolt on the supercharger bracket, and slide the pulley in its groove away from the engine. Once a suitable location has been found that enables fitment of the belt [when the automatic tensioner suppressed], the bolt can then be re-torqued.

The belt life is highly dependant on the use of the car; although in any case the life will be substantially shorter due to the higher operating loads imposed by driving the supercharger. If you need a replacement belt, Gates belts are recommended, and part number is 6PK1560. These can be sought from most motor factors and should cost £15-20. Many other brands are available in this size should your local stockist be unable to supply Gates belts – just quote the length [1560] and number of ribs [6].


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Should your specification deviate from that defined above, 6-rib Micro-V belts are generally available in length increments of 5-10mm, so most installations can be catered for.

Rallye Users – please note you will be required to fit the automatic style belt tensioner [as fitted to the Gti-6] in lieu of the manual tensioner fitted to the Rallye.


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Front End – Partial Reassembly

On completion of the above, all engine-bay related works are complete, and the front end of the car can be partially re-assembled. The radiator and associated coolant hoses, front panel, and headlights can be replaced. The fan cowling, fans, bumper and grille should be left off to enable fitment of the slim-line fans/intercooler as per the guidance notes below.


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Intercooler – Guidance Notes

An intercooler is not provided as part of the Supercharger Kit, and hence is not covered in detail within this document.

We recommend fitting an intercooler regardless of whether the conversion is low boost or high boost. There are no hard and fast rules regarding sizing of the intercooler, however below are some guidelines.

In order to fit the intercooler, regardless of size it is necessary to remove the original fan cowling and fans, and replace it with slim-line fans. SPAL fans are generally the best and are available from the Lynx Garage. 10” diameter fans are the best suited size given the space available. The fans should be placed between the radiator/intercooler, and can be mounted with pins through the radiator core, or with the appropriate brackets to secure to the radiator, intercooler, or front panel.

Recommended core size is approximately 450x150x50mm for the low boost conversion, and 450x30x75mm for the high boost conversion. Remember there are no hard and fast rules – so don’t be governed by these sizes.

Select an intercooler with suitably sized outlets – refer to guidelines on boost pipework below.

The outlets need to downwards-facing, to enable the boost pipes to run under the front chassis cross-member, then back up behind the radiator into the engine bay.

Intercoolers can be sourced from Lynx Garage, eBay UK/US, Forge Motorsport and many other tuning companies. A suitable ‘universal’ design needs to be selected as per the core size and connection size/location recommendations.

The intercooler can be mounted to the car via the front panel/chassis. Brackets can be made from strips of aluminium of steel and should be 30-40mm wide and 3-6mm thick. Again there are no specific rules for this – just locate the intercooler in a suitable position and fabricate brackets/drill holes for mounting bolts as required

The photo’s below demonstrate some intercooler/fan installations:

Fan installation on larger intercooler for high-boost conversion


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Example high-boost [top] and low-boost [bottom] intercooler installations


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Low boost intercooler/oil-cooler installation

The Slimline fans can be connected to the original relay box – it’s just a case of cutting and rejoining the wires. The wires should be soldered/or crimp connectors used. In any case the wires should be covered heat-shrink tube to prevent water penetration or shorting out. The relay box can be mounted anywhere; the example below shows it mounted to the intercooler/oil-cooler brackets. Alternatively, the relay box can be removed, and the fans re-wired with a manual switch as required. Due to the current draw from the fans a relay of some sort will be needed to isolate the low current switching circuit.


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OE relay box mounted to intercooler/oil-cooler brackets

Boost/Charge Pipework

These installation guidelines do not cover intercooler or boost pipe installation, however some guidance can be offered as follows:

A diameter of 2” [51mm] should be suitable for applications up to 300-325BHP, if you are going for more power than this go up to 2.5” [63mm] tubing.

Aluminium is the best material for boost pipework. It can be worked fairly easily and is light. Thin wall [1.6mm or 16 SWG] is most suitable, it can be cut easily and welds well.

Due to the limited space of the 306 engine bay, tight radius bends/elbows will have to be used where pipes change direction. Although not good for flow there is insufficient room for large radius ‘smooth’ bends in most instances.

As much of the installation should be hard piped with aluminium tube as possible. Due to the throttle body being mounted on the inlet side of the supercharger, the boost pipework is subject to significant amounts of boost AND vacuum. This causes silicone hoses to collapse/expand as you come on/off throttle which can fatigue/split the hoses over time. You should aim to have no more than four silicone hose connections on the entire air circuit. This should be as follows:

Supercharger outlet to boost pipework

Boost pipework to intercooler inlet

Intercooler outlet to boost pipework

Boost pipework to inlet manifold

Silicone hose connectors can be purchased from many tuning companies – Viper Performance are our recommended supplier [www.viper-performance.co.uk]. Viper Performance maintain a large stock and offer very good service; the silicone is excellent quality too. Samco hoses are also good quality; however stocks are limited and unless you want ‘Samco Blue’ many items will be a special order which could take several weeks.


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The best route for boost pipework is to bring the pipework down from the supercharger outlet, under the chassis cross-member then back up to meet a front mounted intercooler with downward facing outlets. The air can then return down from the intercooler, under the chassis cross-member, back up into the engine bay to meet the inlet manifold with a 90 degree elbow.

The best method for fabricating the hard-piped sections of boost pipework is to mount all components [intercooler, supercharger etc] on the car, and build the pipework around them. Bends can be achieved by ‘lobster-backing’ the pipework; cutting it into angled sections and then welding it together. If you require sections of aluminium tube welding together, any metalwork/welding/fabrication/engineering should be able to do it for you or at least point you in the right direction. Such companies can be found in the Yellow Pages – there are 1000’s across the UK so you should be able to find someone local. Pre-fabricated bends can be bought from some places in 45/90 degree forms; however you need to make sure there is sufficient space for the bend radius. Given the space constraints on the 306 ‘lobster-backing’ is generally the best option.

The photos below demonstrate some examples of boost pipework installation:

Hard piped installation with 2”/51mm pipework on low boost conversion


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Hard piped installation with 2.5”/63mm pipework on high boost conversion


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Hard piped installation with 2.5”/63mm pipework on high boost conversion


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Engine Management

The supercharger Kit has been designed to use the standard Magnetti Marrelli 1AP.10 ECU. The reasons for this are as follows:

Full diagnostics can be retained for the engine management and other integrated systems – a big advantage when fault finding.

The standard ECU is extremely good and lends itself well for remapping to suit this conversion.

You would have to spend a substantial amount of money to get a standalone ECU which would be of any benefit over the standard ECU. The standard ECU has many good features such as knock detection, which are generally only found on top-end standalone ECU’s. It also features high-resolution load sites - this is the number of data points where a fuel/ignition value is registered to RPM or engine load. Cheaper standalone ECU’s can be relatively low-definition, with interpolation between data points. This works OK although limits the ‘fine tuning’ capability.

Standalone ECU would also require a wiring loom to be fabricated to suit the installation.

The only modifications required to the engine management to smoothly run the supercharged engine is extension of sensor wires where required to suit new locations [covered previously], and a remap.

Lynx Garage are able to offer an ECU reprogramming service and we have software for both our low boost and high boost conversions. Should your conversion deviate from our standard specifications for these conversions; a live remap will be required. Please contact us to discuss your specification and the engine management solutions available.

Should a custom live remap be required, or your preference, We recommend Chip Wizards for the remapping – and no-one else, simply because there is no better. Chip Wizards are located in Rochdale near Manchester and can be contacted as below:

Workshop – 01706 651000Wayne Schofield [owner] – 07977 004476

The remapping should cost £4-500 and will take the best part of a day. Be sure to have a full tank of fuel.


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Engine Oil Cooler

An air-to-air Mocal style engine oil cooler is generally not required unless the car will be used on track. There is no definitive guide on this matter – just monitor oil temperature and go from there. The maximum safe running oil temperature varies from oil to oil – please seek advice from manufacturer on this matter.

Space can become a problem finding space for an engine oil cooler due to installing supercharger oil cooler and intercooler. However where there is a will there is a way – the engine oil cooler doesn’t have to be mounted right at the front of the car – it could be mounted in the inner-wing behind the wheel arch as an alternative location and ducted cold air as required. Please refer to the photos below – an example engine oil-cooler installation:

Engine oil cooler fitted to left of intercooler


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Engine oil cooler fitted to left of intercooler


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Running in and first start up

The engine will require no specific running in after the installation of the supercharger if the kit is fitted to a running engine; however if your engine is being rebuilt prior to fitment of the supercharger kit it must be run in carefully.

Low Boost Conversion – on existing engine

For low-boost conversions fitted to engines with standard internals it is essential to have a correctly sized boost control ring fitted prior to first start-up – if this is not fitted your engine may experience unsafe levels of boost which could potentially result in terminal failure. If you have not been supplied a boost control ring please contact us.

Ensure any fluids that were drained for the fitting process are replenished, such as engine coolant, PAS fluid or engine oil.

The coolant system will need to be bled on first start up – refer to Haynes Manual.

The supercharger oil-circuit must be primed – refer to Rotrex Supercharger Oil System Installation Instructions; available from www.rotrex.com

Ensure the cooling fans kick in and are working properly; unplugging the brown multi-plug on the thermostat should result in both fans spinning at full speed.

Pay attention for any strange noises/running/driving behaviour.

Keep the revs below 3000 RPM until the ECU is flashed with our stock map for the low-boost conversion, or until the car has a live remap from Chip Wizards.

This document is not intended to cover engine building and running in procedure of a freshly built engine, although some rough guidelines are below. Please seek advice from your engine builder for further detail – everyone has there own procedure for this process, there are no hard and fast rules.

If you would like a custom remap from Chip Wizards rather than Lynx Power Engineering’s ECU software flashing service, your engine will need to be run in properly before it can be mapped. As a result, during the running in period, fuel and ignition settings may not be ideal. To mitigate the risk of engine damage due to lean-running etc until the engine is mapped the car should be driven with some mechanical sympathy.

DO NOT fit bigger injectors until the car has the correct software loaded onto the ECU/or is remapped. The larger flow rate will cause bore wash at low engine speeds which can lead to piston-ring failure. When the ECU software is flashed/re-mapped, the injector duration can be adjusted to compensate for the larger flow rate.

Do not over-rev the engine. Keep the revs below 3000 RPM for the first 500 miles, and below 4500 RPM for the next 500 miles.

Do not subject the engine to full load [wide open throttle] for prolonged periods of time. However, the engine should be subjected to full load in shorts bursts. This is because full load creates high cylinder pressures which push the piston-rings against the bores, which is essential for them to wear in correctly to give perfect bore sealing. The engine should also be subjected to vacuum conditions, intermittently with the short bursts of full load. Vacuum conditions are achieved by lifting off the throttle [engine braking]. The vacuum created in the cylinders helps draw oil onto the bores essential for correct slow wearing in of the piston-rings/bores.

After approximately 1000 miles the engine should be suitably worn in to be mapped/driven normally if the appropriate software is already loaded onto the ECU.

The engine should still be driven with mechanical sympathy until the ECU’s software is flashed/re-mapped regardless of mileage or you risk causing severe internal damage.

Do an oil & filter change after 500 miles – it will have collected perhaps 80% of break in material from the bearings/bores/rings at this stage and it is important to keep the oil as clean as possible. There are conflicting views on the oil that should be used for running in – some people believe cheap low quality oil should be used as this doesn’t eliminate as much friction as top-end


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motorsport oils, giving quicker, and more effective running in. On the other hand, running clearances on modern engine are so exact, and materials are generally modern and of good quality, no major break in is required and some people believe the best possible oil should be used from day-one. Make your own decision.


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Maintenance

There are no specific maintenance requirements of the supercharged engine over or above that of the standard engine. However the following must be followed:

The supercharger traction fluid must be changed in accordance with Rotrex’s recommendations in the supercharger/oil-system manuals.

The K&N air filters for ICV/engine must be cleaned and re-oiled as per the K&N instructions included.

Engine oil is the life-blood of your engine and should be the foremost maintenance concern. The frequency of oil changes depends on the grade/quality of oil used, the nature of the cars use, and many other factors. We would generally recommend changing the oil every 6,000 miles. As discussed previously, use the best oil you can afford – Lynx recommend Royal Purple Racing 51 and believe it offers unmatched film strength and protection.

Also use the best oil you can afford for the gearbox – again Lynx Recommend Royal Purple gear/diff oils.

Spark plugs should be changed in accordance with Peugeot/manufacturer’s recommended interval.

All other maintenance as per Peugeot recommendations.


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Trouble Shooting/Support

Should you require further advice, or wish to contact us regarding the services we offer, such as engine building and fitting of supercharger kits our contact details are below:

Lynx GarageUnit 2/25CBrockhampton LaneHavantHampshirePO9 1JT

Telephone/Fax: 02392 499031Email: [email protected]: www.lynxpowerengineering.co.uk


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Disclaimer

We will under no circumstances take responsibility for your actions and the consequences that arise from them as a result of fitting this Supercharger Kit. We also take no responsibility for the mechanical failure of this product due to incorrect installation, or your engine or related components, or any other form of loss that arises from your fitting of the Supercharger Kit.

Failure of an element of this kit due to poor workmanship/materials is subject to repair or replacement within twelve-months of purchase, at our discretion. No warranty is given, or implied, under any circumstances on any existing elements of your car, including the engine.

Copyright/Data Ownership

All contents of this document strictly copyright Lynx Garage Limited. Unauthorised reproduction /distribution in whole or part shall result in the appropriate civil/criminal penalties shall be sought.

Documents

Supercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye …lynxpowerengineering.co.uk/sckitguidelines.pdfSupercharger Kit for Peugeot 306 GTI-6 & Rallye [XU10 J4RS Engine] Installation Guidelines