Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“

Kooperationsstelle Hamburg

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes

Workshop„Textiles in Chemicals“

Hamburg, June 14, 2002

Lothar Lissner



1. Chemical Scope2. Eco-toxicological Evidence3. Regulation, Market and Actors4. Substitutes5. Implication for enterprises

Content



Combined results from two case studies

1. Success of Textile Labels

2. Dry cleaning of textiles with PER



Basic materials• Synthetic fibres (Polyester, Polyamid, Polyacrilonitrile• Wood pulp (Viscose, Cupro, Acetat)• Cotton and flax• Wool• Silk



Extractable heavy metalsAntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc

ChemicalsFree formaldehydePesticides (Phenols, PCP, TeCP, OPP)PVC- plasticisersPhthalates Organotin compoundsDyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)Chlorinated organic carriersBiocides Flame retardants

Main problematic substances



ProductionChemicals from the production or manufacturing of basic materials (synthetic fibres, wood pulp, cotton, wool, silk) as pesticides, bleaching chemicals, catalysts as antimonyPreparationCleaning and washing (solvents)Spinning (oils)

WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE



Pre-TreatmentCarbonising, washing, dyeing, printing, bleaching, mercerising etc.FinishingTreatments to achieve properties asEasy care, Water repellent, Softening, Anti Static Treatment, Flame retardant, Moth proofing,Anti bactericidal and anti fungicidal

WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE



In many cases:Certainty about the toxic properties as for dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, organo tinUncertainty or ambiguity about the NO-effect levelsOn the following pages:Comparison of four label criteria

ECOTOXICOLOGICAL EVIDENCE



Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin”

Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”

EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label

Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”

Ph-Value 4,0 - 7,5 4,0 - 9,0 ----- Acc. ISO 3071

Free formaldehyde 75 ppm 300 ppm 75/300 ppm 30 ppm

Extractable heavy metals(in ppm)AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCr VI CobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc

(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------

(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------

Separated limit values for heavy metals in dyes and pigments, but not in the final product

(in mg/kg)----0,20,80,12,0---- 4,050,04,00,024,060,0


Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesParameter Oeko-Tex-

Standard II”In direct contact with skin”

Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”

EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label

Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”

Organotin compounds (since 2000)

TBT 1 ppm TBT 1 ppm ---- Not acceptable

Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)

Not used Detailed List Detailed list accor ding to the German ban of azo-dyes list

Chlorinated organic carrier

1,0 ppm 1,0 ppm Not acceptable

1% of the weight (halogenated subst.)

Biocides finish Not acceptable

Not acceptable

------ Not acceptable

Flame retardant finish None None No substance labelled with R45, R46, R50, R52, R53, R60 or R 61

Bromo- and chloro- organic flame retardants not acceptable



REGULATIONImportant regulative areasRegulation of raw material production:Pesticides in wool andcotton production – very divergent depending on the regulations in the different 1.,2.,3.World nationsRegulation of processing chemicals in the textile manufacturing from different areas, most important:Waste water, dyeing process (see also for a complete overview the BREF-Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the Textiles Industry, Nov 01)

Regulation of the final productMainly via Labels (Oeko-Tex, European Eco Label, Nordic Swan)Import controls – low enforcement



MARKET

Globalised production Very dispersed supply chain



ACTORS

Divergent views on substitution encountered:Consumers Retail Textile producers in industrialised and 2. and 3. World countriesThe suppliers of textile chemicalsSuppliers of synthetic fibres / Suppliers of natural fibresGovernments and WTOLabel issuers



SUBSTITUTES

Main strategies

Emission reduction by fixing of chemicals to reduce the extractability res emissionSubstitution or very reduced use of the most hazardous products as carcinogenic dyes or some pesticides Strict emission control as in the waste water areaStrict emission control of PER in dry cleaning



IMPLICATIONS FOR ENTERPRISES

Retail services:Trust on existing labels or development of own criteria Textile producers: Trust on the suppliers res. labels or control instruments used by suppliersThe suppliers of textile chemicals Development of innovative products

Documents

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“