Stop Motion Poor Man's Armature

25/10/11 12:50Stop Motion Poor Man's Armature

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Poor Man's Jointed Stop Motion Armatures____________________________________________________________________Subject: "Weelian's Poor Man's Armature"

weeliano

Member sinceJan 17th 2006 4 posts

Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureTue Jan-17-06 07:41 PM

Hello fellow animators! This is my first post here and I and giving away an invention of mine. Enjoy!

I have created a simple armature for use in teaching stop motion animation. I am now sharing it to the animation world. Thissimple to make design was created in 2003 at LaSalle-SIA Institute of the Arts (Singapore) to help students make anaffordable armature to do stop motion animation themselves. Though the range of motion is not as good as professionallymade ones, I have students who have successfully made short films with it. If you buy the parts in bulk, a single armaturewould only cost a few dollars.

Here's what you need to get to make this "Poor Man's" Armature. 1.Special round cross section tipped pliers (for removing retainer clips, not those semi-circle round nosed pliers)

2. Soft Stainless Steel wire, 1.5 to 2mm in diameter. Aluminium and copper wires won't work as they are too soft.(Don't getthose ultra stiff ones as they are incredibly hard to bend)

3, Lock Nuts, Washers, Spring Washers, and the Bolts (look at the attached images to see how to set up, you can put alittle bit of super glue to the lock nut to prevent it from loosening.)

4. A Vice or Flat head pliers. You may need these tools to hold the wire tightly while bending the loops.

And that's it! That's all you need. Just look at the pictures below and you'll see how easy to build one for yourself. Lookclosely at how the wire is bent to achieve the various axis of motion.

One piece of advice, do not build your armature more than 6 inches tall and don't dress your armature in heavy costumeotherwise they won't hold the pose. Make the bolts easily accessible, so you can make tightening adjustments. For theMKIII design below, I used thicker wire and heavier bolts for the lower body as they are more stable. My first attempt wasnot very stable and the armature didn't hold the pose very well.







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Strider

Member sinceOct 05th 2001 6655 posts

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureTue Jan-17-06 08:47 PM

In response to Reply # 0Tue Jan-17-06 08:49 PM by Strider

That's ingenius!

I'm glad you posted this. Looks like a great (and inexpensive) way to make a very simple armature. Heh... can't wait to seethe MK X!

Mike Brent

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RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureWed Jan-18-06 09:38 AM

In response to Reply # 1

I've seen the,

Exact same concept when I went to Vinton Studios in the 90's:



Marc Spess

Member sinceJul 21st 2003 792 posts

I believe they used some brass rods, soldered to brass nuts. Then they drilled out the hole in one of the nuts where the hexscrew goes through. They really figured out a lot of tricks like that - it makes you wonder what other hidden secrets theyhad.

Marc______________________________________________________________

prammaven

Member sinceAug 27th 2004481 posts

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureWed Jan-18-06 05:44 PM

In response to Reply # 2Wed Jan-18-06 05:44 PM by prammaven

Hello,

I have been working on the same idea, but my problem was keeping the nut or screw from coming loose from each of thejoints. It looks like it will work in theory, I'm just in the dark as to how to lock the nut with glue, and still be able to tighten thejoint.Wouldn't solder work better for that?

My design is actually cheaper, I believe. To make each joint, you would simply get two ring terminals for each joint, crimpthe terminals onto pieces of wire that don't bend easily, and that's that.

As I recall, an armature builder on here wrote in a thread somewhere that he didn't like using joints like this because theanimators tended to want to move the puppet in a way that it wouldn't go.

The design is cool looking though, and you win the award, Weeliano, for building it first.______________________________________________________________

DaveHettmer

Member sinceJun 09th 2005 336 posts


In response to Reply # 3Wed Jan-18-06 06:52 PM by DaveHettmer

prammaven, can you get nylon stop nuts where you are? That might do the trick.



- Dave______________________________________________________________

weeliano




Hi Prammaven!

Thanks for your compliments! The nuts I'm using are Nylon lock nuts as Dave has mentioned, the super glue is just to giveme more hold as moving the joints constantly will eventually loosen the lock nuts. The spring washers will become weakerover many movement of the joints and to solve that we just unscrew the joint and bend the spring washer or just replace it.The armature design is very simple, although it resembles the Vinton Studio's Brass armature as mentioned by Marc, Ibelieve it is different and original itself, there are no drilling and soldering involved, but you'll need a lot of hand strengththough to bend the loops. It took me about 6 hours to build MKIII and at the end of the day your hands and fingers will bequite sore bending the loops. This design allows for modularity. You can make standardized parts and construct variouscreature armatures for your work. Sort of like "Mechano" or those construction toys with many standardized parts. If onlysomeone can make a machine to make the wireloops, then this can become a great business! I'm not making any moneyfrom this, just credit me as the person who started this idea.

This design of mine is not perfect, but it works as a great introduction to learning stopmotion animation. I developed itprimarily as a tool to teach stop motion animation at a very low cost. On average each armature cost only a few dollars,provided you buy the materials in bulk. I had my students go to the local hardware and specialty Nuts & Bolts store to buyall the stuff and they got it at great deal. I still have many locknuts,bolts and washers left and essentially have enoughmaterial to make 5 more armatures. My MkIII is already more than 2 years old and though the upper body joints areloosening, the lower more robust leg and foot joints still hold their stiffness. If someone can improve the design, I'll gladlyshare the credit .

QuoteHello, I have been working on the same idea, but my problem was keeping the nut or screw from coming loose from each ofthe joints. It looks like it will work in theory, I'm just in the dark as to how to lock the nut with glue, and still be able to tightenthe joint.Wouldn't solder work better for that?My design is actually cheaper, I believe. To make each joint, you would simplyget two ring terminals for each joint, crimp the terminals onto pieces of wire that don't bend easily, and that's that. As Irecall, an armature builder on here wrote in a thread somewhere that he didn't like using joints like this because theanimators tended to want to move the puppet in a way that it wouldn't go.The design is cool looking though, and you win theaward, Weeliano, for building it first. ______________________________________________________________

hugolino

Member sinceNov 20th 2005 25 posts


In response to Reply # 5Wed Jan-18-06 10:37 PM by hugolino

Hello to all. Instead of metal washers what you needare nylon washers. My armatures are made up of various steel wire gauges (12, 16, even large paper clip wire)that I've hand formed sandwiching #2 or #6 nylon washers which you can purchase at:

www.microfasteners.com or www.mcmaster.com

With the nylon washers you won't need to glue thelocknut ends. A heavier gauge wire is best becauseas you manipulate a limb, the wire will naturally bendat the clamping point. Unfortunately I do not have theability to post my stills. I still continue to experimentwith this type of joinage, however I'm beginning to combinethem with brass joints of the same nature made of tubeswith flattened ends and bore with a drill press. I wasinspired by the cross bars you see in a scaffold structure.Get your hands on nylon washers and the difference influidity will be significant. The washers are inexpensivetoo.

Hugo______________________________________________________________

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureThu Jan-19-06 01:12 AM


You need a wire bending jig! Here's one to show you how they work:



Strider


You can make one yourself... just put some screws into a plank. Make sure the plank is either big and heavy or clampeddown securely, and it gets pretty easy to bend wire.

Mike Brent______________________________________________________________

weeliano


RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureThu Jan-19-06 01:17 AM


Hi Mike!

Thanks for your compliment in the 2nd post and thanks for sharing the tip for bending wire. ______________________________________________________________

prammaven Member sinceAug 27th 2004 481 posts

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureThu Jan-19-06 01:45 PM

In response to Reply # 8Thu Jan-19-06 01:57 PM by prammaven

Weeliano,

The only thing I would change about your design would be the feet---I would make them easier to tie down to a table, unlessyou figured out a way to do it with the existing design. I like you design a lot, though. It's the most original armature I'veseen. For the feet, I would probably use a spade terminal, and crimp the wire in there. This works really well, and my wirearmatures have been standing for weeks without anything to support them but their own balance.

Hugo,

If you need to post a pic...

www.putfile.com

It's very easy to create an account, and then post pictures, music, video... Any of those.

I would definately like to see your armature.

Marc, I'm not all that sure what I'm looking at in the pic of the brass armature at Vinton's. I seem to recall seeing something likethat when I visited the studios. Did John Ashlee give you the tour?

Man, those guys went through armature designs like toilet paper! I've seen the original ones Will used in Closed mondays,and then next thing you know it's plug 'n play style brass stock, later ball and socket, and who knows when the designfeatured in your picture came about. Those guys were some serious innovators, that's for sure! I never did hear whatbecame of John Ashlee, though.______________________________________________________________

hugolino





In response to Reply # 9Thu Jan-19-06 08:40 PM by hugolino

This is a test. Stills.

Hugo______________________________________________________________

hugolino




The test worked, however please forgive low-end quality of stills.Will improve. This armature (in progress) is for a Megatherium.It is comprised of flanged brass tubes and wire formed swivel -hinge joints. The hardware is 2-56 and 6-32 bolts, nylon washers and locknuts.The hip bridge is made of a high strength baling wire.The brass flanged joints are very strong and easy to make.I simply use a tube cutter and heavy pliers to flatten endswhich are then jobbed on drill press. I use 5-32 to 1/4 tubesfound in hobby shops. I've even used 1/8 tube for smallerjoints.

Hugo______________________________________________________________

Strider




Wow, that looks great Hugo! I hope we get to see the finished armature. Will you be building it up using the methods youdescribed on another thread about the buildup process?

Mike Brent______________________________________________________________

hugolino




Hey Mike. Good hearing from you. The upper half of the armatureshould be complete this weekend. I do a majority of workduring my lunch hour and after hours,(I'm currently in maintenance, work out of small room. My press and supplies are all there. Hardto work at home). Yes I will be building up using foam and cotton.However foam will see greater use. There are several fabric shopsI've visited that offer a variety of pelts too. I've a build-upsample to show as well. Will follow shortly.

Hugo______________________________________________________________

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureFri Jan-20-06 10:15 PM


Hope everyone is well. Here are some more stills with rough arms on Megatherium armature. When I build an armature I begin with a prototype and then develop into a finished piece.I also make sketches of configurations butnever a blueprint. The other wire structure is fora giant flightless bird armature I never did finish (intend to). Its just an example of whatcan be done with wire as a models frame.



hugolino






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prammaven

Member sinceAug 27th 2004 481 posts

RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureSat Jan-21-06 08:16 AM


That's pretty awesome, man.

But as much work as you're going to for those joints, why don't you consider building a ball and socket design?

No offense was intended by this question.______________________________________________________________

hugolino


RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureSat Jan-21-06 10:05 AM


None taken. Actually its more muscle than anythingelse (as you noted in your post about making the loops).I prefer swivel hinge joints to b&s joints. The hardestpart is fixing a ball to rod and that was something Iwas never able to do well enough. If I'd had a lathe,I'd be chirping a different song. If I do use a ball jointit would be for the base of the head. I like the natureof the materials (brass, steel wire) because, one, itsall I can afford right now, and two, they are easy to"sculpt", yet very strong. Hey did you look into the nylonwashers? If you can't get any, I'd be happy to send yousome.Let me know. What bolt size are you using.. 6-32 or8-32?

Hugo______________________________________________________________

hugolino


RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureSun Jan-22-06 02:37 AM


Sorry, I meant to address Weeliano regardinghardware need question.

hugo______________________________________________________________

weeliano


RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureSun Jan-22-06 08:00 AM


Hi Hugo!

Thanks for offering to get me the nylon washers. Right now my spring washer and metal washer setup works pretty well, butyour setup sure looks cool and innovative!



My bolts are ranging from 2mm to 3.5mm(approx.) in diameter. I used the smaller bolts for the upper body and limbs whilefor the legs I used bigger 3.5mm bolts and thicker wire.______________________________________________________________

hugolino


RE: Weelian's Poor Man's ArmatureMon Jan-23-06 08:28 AM


Weeliano,

Thank you for the feedback. Will you be using for a claybased model or otherwise?

Hugo______________________________________________________________

For info lurkers , FREE ADDITIONAL 'BONUS' ADDED BY STOP MOTION WORKS (not included in original messageboard topic) .......

ELEPHANT / MASTADON-like 'Wire hinged armature' example: Pic 1 - Pic 2

LIO Tip: If you cannot find Nylon washers,you can Do-It-Yourself fabricate substituteplastic-type washers using the Polyethyleneseal tops you find on coffee cans, rolled oatscontainers or other supermarket grocery itemsthat have the big plastic seal tops . See photoat right. You can recycle as something useful.

The do-it-yourself polyethylene plasticwashers are not as tough or thick as Nylon, soyou might need to double or triple thepolyethylene washers for every joint so that theydo not over compress or flatten out too much.The heat resistance of polyethylene is about140°-180° F.; so you will need to test it, if youintend baking hot-cure foam latex rubber in oven(at or under 200 deg. F curing temperatures).With Build-Up Puppets, where no heat isneeded, home-made polyethylene plasticwashers might work for you.

The premade Nylon washers are moredurable and has some heat resistant to about300 degrees F.. Perhaps applicable if you areplacing armature in a mold, for oven bakingHot-cure Foam Rubber Latex.

Nylon washers available at Small Parts Inc andMicro Fasteners

You can try cutting out the washer round shapes and also the middle holewithexacto knife/blade (it does not have to be 'perfect' circle shapes) ....

Or better yet, using hollow gasket hole puncher setsimilar to this .....

In USA, Harbor Freight Tools has them. Maybe not be bestquality, but perhaps adequate for ocassional use

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More Tips about POOR MAN's ARMATURES

Why do nuts and screws seem to magically loosen themselves? Some reasons include corrosion in the threads (for metal fasteners), vibration, orcyclic movement of the parts causing the nut or screw to "walk" loose (as in Stop Motion, the repeated joint movements). Temperature changes



can cause fasteners to loosen if the coefficients of expansion for fasteners and fastened parts are sufficiently different. Sometimes thismight happen if you use oven/heat curing Foam Latex Rubber (armature inside the mold & filled with foam). The mild heat might slightlyloosen the joint's tension.The simple Do-It-Yourself Home Brew Hinge Joints (as shown above) needs to be tightened FIRMLY. I recommend a plain flat washerunderneath the nut, then very important, use must use a Thread Locking Sealant on the threaded ends that goes inside the NUTs. Thelock sealant should be removal grade (such as Loctite 242 / Temp resistant to 300 deg F), so that later if needed, you can unscrew &loosen the nut from screw. Follow the thread locking sealant instructions for the 'curing/setting time'.Before you bury-embed the Poor Man hinge type jointed armatures inside the foam rubber or before you do a build-up method of theouter puppet skin, you must FIRST, PRE-TIGHTEN all the joints so that they have GOOD TENSION. You then put the armatures throughpractice animation tests, posing it through all the motions/movements (without the skin). This testing will reveal any of the weak joints that may loosen-up.This is a trial & error process of getting the right firm tension that is specific to your armature design and so this joint adjustment process mayrequire re-application of the thread locking sealant and re-tightening the nuts on the joints.After puppet has its outer finished skin, the joints underneath still might loosen but that is part of the Stop Motion Animation 'process'. Even withprofessional armatures, some joints can loosen while you are animating. No need to get your 'Underwears in a Bunch' . You can razor slit open theskin (foam rubber) and re-tighten any loosening joints. Better to have 'tighter' joint tension, especially ankles, knees, and hips

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