STDS`M&S

Marks & Spencer New Performance Standards and Technical Notes

Light Sewing − Woven Fabrics February 2008 Page 1 of 8

‘LS’ STANDARDS LIGHT SEWING – LIGHT WEIGHT WOVEN and KNITTED FABRICS (LESS THAN APPROX. 120-15O G/SQ. M)

Blouses, Formal and Casual Shirts & Tops, Light Weight dresses and skirts, and Lightweight jackets, shorts etc.

Stability Wash

Thermal Stability Tensile Strength

(weft) Tear Strength

(weft) Fabric Slippage Pilling Drum

Fabric category Test Code

See below for test P10 P11 P29 P12 P18A

Machine washable

Woven cotton and cotton blends, filament fabrics

(incl. those with spun wefts)e.g. polyester, viscose and

other man-made fibres. Various other woven blends

e.g. Linen, Tencel, Modal, blends, Cotton Velvets, etc.

LS/01 All except

mens formal shirts

Blouses, Shirts, other Formal Tops,

and Light Weight

dresses and skirts

Men’s Formal

Shirts

LS/01 All fabrics except in men’s formal

shirts MSW (iii) @ 50°C

L –3.0% W –3.0%

Menswear

(Formal Shirts only)

MSW (iii) @ 50°C L –2.0% W –2.0%

MACHINE

WASHABLE SILK

MSA (i) @ 40°C L –3.0% W –3.0%

Hand Wash only e.g. Silk and Silk blends

LS/02

MSG (ii) @ 40°C

L –3.0% W –3.0%

Test only applies

to woven synthetic with

cellulose blends

30 secs. @ 160°C

L –2.0% W –2.0%

Test not required on stretch fabrics

All fabrics

except spun viscose

18.0kg

Spun Viscose (tested wet)

12.0kg

Men’s and Boys’ Formal and

Casual Shirts All fabrics

20.0kg

Woven cotton, cellulosics and

blends 700g

Linen

Agree standard with Technologist

Method I Original 5.5kg Washed 5.5kg

Note: Where the same fabric is used for

heavier apparel, for example trousers,

the test and performance standard is:

Method II

Original 12.0 kg Washed 12.0 kg

All fabrics with spun fibres e.g.

Woven synthetic/ cellulosic blends

(spun weft fabrics)

Modal and Micro Modal blends

3000 revs

Grade C (overall)



LIGHT SEWING FABRICS

Stability

Wash Extension and Modulus Snagging Drum


P1A MSW (iii) @ 50°C

P14 (Warp Knits)

P21A

Warp knitted fabics: rigid and stretch

LS/03

STRETCH WARP KNITS

Raschel L –6.0%

W –10.0%

Tricot L –8.0% W –8.0%

RIGID

WARP KNITS L –6.0% W –6.0%

Standard to be set and agreed with M&S technologist Control production to ±15% of mean extension figure

Applies to filament, or

filament and spun fabrics

Grade 3-4

Report short, medium, or long snags

Dependant on test result and end use, the M&S

technologist may specify Wear Trial P49 prior to

approval



Stability

Wash Tensile Strength

(weft)

Tear Strength

(weft) Fabric Slippage

Residual Extension

Snagging Drum


P1A See test detail

below P11 P29 P12 P15 part 1 P21A

Lightweight filament woven fabrics

LS/04

Synthetic fabrics (for example polyester or polyamide)

MSW (iii) @ 50°C L –3.0% W –3.0%

Triacetate fabrics MSA (iii) @ 40˚C

L –3.0% W –3.0%

18.0kg

700g

Method I Original 5.5kg Washed

5.5kg

Note: Where the same fabric is

used for heavier apparel, for example trousers, the test and performance standard

is:

Method II Original 12.0 kg Washed

12.0 kg

All stretch garments

Maximum 5.0%

Grade 3-4

Report short,

medium, or long snags

Dependant on test

result and end use, the M&S

technologist may specify Wear Trial

P49 prior to approval

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Additional tests that may be requested by the technologist

Surface resistivity (polyester fabrics

only) Snagging Drum

Residual Extension (stretch fabrics)

Formaldehyde

P25 P21A P15 Part 1 C18B and C18C

1011 Ohms Grade 4 Maximum 5.0% C18B: 300ppm maximum

C18C: 75ppm maximum

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Additional Tests that may be requested by the Technologist (including promotional claims)

WIRA Steam stability Martindale Abrasion

NON IRON

Assessment of non iron fabrics and

garments

‘EASIER TO IRON’

Ironability of Lightweight Wovens

Accelorotor abrasion (velvet and corduroy

fabrics only) Crease Resistance

Cockling Assessment

P8 P19 P134 and P134A P91 P26 P49 (wear trial) P69

Washable Woven Wool And Wool

Blends Only

Womens’

L –3.0%

W –3.0%

Menswear

L –2.0%

W –2.0% maximum

Men’s Twill Shirts

10,000 revs

Smoothness DP 3.5 (min.)

Smoothness, crease retention and seams

(pristine) all 3.5

All fabrics except linen:

DP 3.5 minimum

Linen: agree DP standard with technologist

Pile Fabrics Only

12% pile loss (maximum)

100% Viscose Fabrics, or as

requested

Visual Assessment

agree standard with technologist

Visual Assessment agree standard with

technologist



TECHNICAL NOTES: WOMENS’

Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Blouses, Shirts, Light Weight dresses and skirts, etc. Stability • Stability wash is critical in Formal Ladies Tops: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints – this is most critical on

close fitting garments. • Customer machine wash is the target wash label – exceptions e.g. dry clean only, to be discussed with the technologist. • Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric, and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with

the technologist. Tensile Strength (Weft) • For specialist and delicate fabrics (where fabric fails the test) e.g. devoré, a lining may be added and checked through P49 wear trial,

then assessed by the technologist. Fabric Slippage

• The quoted figures are requirements where the tested fabric is used in Standard Seams and not bias cut or French seamed in the garment. • Where fabrics do not perform to the quoted standard, suppliers should discuss garment construction (including French Seams and/or

lining), and assessed against P49 wear trial (or other garment assessment) with the technologist. Accelorotor Abrasion • Tested fabric sample to be visually inspected to examine abrasion.



TECHNICAL NOTES: MENS’

Light Sewing fabrics e.g. Formal and Casual Shirts

Stability • Stability wash is critical in Formal Men’s Shirts: higher than stated shrinkage can cause customer complaints. • Where the test result shows shrinkage above stated standards, discuss fabric and garment construction, and wear trial assessment, with

the technologist. • Linen and viscose fabrics are difficult to get stable, therefore if these figures deviate from the standard, agree standard with Department

Technologist. Seam Slippage • Lower performance figures should be discussed with the technologist, to include stronger seam options such as Twin Needle, Lap or

French seams (3.5kg slippage is acceptable, subject to P49 Wear Trial to confirm performance). Easier to iron • Linen and blends only: DP rating to be agreed with M&S technologist.



TECHNICAL NOTES: CHILDRENS3WEAR

Light Sewing fabrics

Kidswear Safety Manual: All products to be tested to relevant Performance Standards, and achieve a pass as a minimum.

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