KAI MAYFAIRTHIS is modern Chinese dining at its best.Top-notch service and luxurious dishessuch as Buddha Jumps Over The Wallsoup (£108, it takes five days to make) have

come to define this much-laudedrestaurant.

Chef Alex Chow has taken Beijingfood and rewritten the rule book. Tryhis Beijing duck tasting menu (£65pp,

minimum two people), showcasing fiveamazing duck courses. There’s also a

Dom Perignon champagne menu(£280pp). Dining like an emperor doesn’t

come cheap, but this is gold medal stuff. 65 South Audley Street, W1

(020 7493 8988)

PHOENIX PALACEA HEAD count of Chinesepeople can be a pretty goodgauge of quality. As such,Phoenix Palace scores full

marks. It’s packedwith Chinese fami-

lies who f lockhere to satisfy

their cravingsfor authentic,f re sh fo o d .Capital spare

14 Wednesday, 20 August 2008 London Lite

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STAR★RESTAURANT

Bring the Olympics homewith our pick of London’sbest Chinese restaurants

BY DAISY DUMAS

Beijing Apsleys Restaurant at The Lanesborough HotelHyde Park Corner, SW1020 7259 5599 APSLEYS offers a moderndining experience in a luxuryhotel setting. Cuisine isseasonal, rustic Italian fare —but rustic in a posh way. WHO Jaime Winstone and Alfie Allen recently enjoyed ameal here.WHO ELSE Beyoncé and Jay-Z,Mark Ronson and Hugh Grant.BLENDING INAn A-list companion is theperfect accessory! AMBIENCE There’s an amazingconservatory — complete withvaulted glass ceiling and super-size Art Deco-style chandeliers.There’s even a Michelangelo-inspired fresco on one of thewalls, by Simon Casson.

WHAT TO ORDER Tagliatelle ina light truffle butter sauce(£17.50); lamb cutlets withcaponata and artichokes (£26),or the scallops saltimboccawith pea mash (£28.50). Acheaper option is the three-course lunch menu at only £24.WHAT TO DRINK Make use ofthe two temperature-controlled

wine-tasting rooms (where aspecial system preservesalready-opened bottles to allowfor an extensive choice ofwines by the glass). White wineby the glass starts at £6.50.BEST TABLE On theraised platform byCasson’s mural. HOW TO LANDA TABLE Bybooking earlyin the week.PERSON TOKNOW ThecharmingItalian manager,PasqualeCosmai.NEXT BESTTHING Vasco &Piero’s Pavilion, 15Poland Street, W1,020 7437 8774

Alfie Allena and Jaime Winstone Apsleys Restaurant at The Lanesborough Hotel

Luxurious setting: Alfie Allen andJaime Winstone, right, recently atein Apsleys at The Lanesborough

Family favourite:a waitress servesup authentic fareat Phoenix Palace

WITH the Olympic Gamesgripping London, now’sthe perfect time tosample Beijing-stylecuisine — withoutleaving the capital.

They say Beijing locals are so obsessedwith food that the phrase “Che fan lema?” — “have you eaten?” — is used inplace of “hello”.

The cuisine of Beijing (formerlyPeking) is a melting pot of flavours andingredients, where dishes are shaped notonly by the regional diversity withinChina itself, but also by that of its manyneighbours. While dim sum is ubiquitousthroughout China, noodles, dumplings,pork, mutton and, of course, duck aremore typical of northern Chinese cuisine.

On 8 September, Min Jiang restaurant atthe Royal Garden Hotel opens, featuringan authentic Beijing duck oven and greatviews over Hyde Park. In the meantime,here are our top tips on Chineserestaurants going for gourmet gold...

LEONG’S LEGENDSIF THERE were food Olympics,China would be wise to field ateam from Leong’s. Everyingredient at this Chinatownrestaurant has been carefullyresearched, tried and tested soall dishes are works of art.

The menu has a Taiwaneseinf luence, but spicy beefnoodles — hunks ofmeat and fat noodlesin a gutsy spicedstock (£4.50) — isBeijing to a T.Portions are bigenough to shareamong an entiref a m i l y . T h efreshly steamed

dim sum is exquisite and comes in steamers of eight for £6, so they’re greatvalue, too.4 Macclesfield Street, W1 (020 7287 0288)

1 ingredient 2 ways PollackPOLLACK PIE SERVES 4● 455g pollack fillet● 1 tbsp oil● 1 onion, sliced● 1 clove garlic, crushed ● small piece ginger, chopped ● 1⁄2 tsp cumin● 1⁄2 tsp coriander● 1⁄2 tsp chilli powder● 200g chopped tomatoes● 1⁄2 tsp tomato purée● 1 red pepper, cubed ● 225g puff pastryHEAT oil, add ginger, onion, garlic andcook until soft. Stir in spices, cook fortwo mins. Add tomatoes, purée andpepper, simmer. Take off heat, stir infish, put in dish. Cover with pastry,brush with egg, bake 20mins at 200C.

FISH FAJITASSERVES 4● 455g pollack fillets● 1 clove garlic, crushed● cayenne pepper● juice and rind of lime● 1 tbsp oil● 1 onion, in wedges● 1 red and 1 green pepper, sliced ● 3 tbsp taco sauce

MIX garlic, cayenne and lime. Addfish, leave 15 mins. Heat oil, add onionand peppers, cook for 5 mins. Add fishand sauce and cook for 3-4 minutes. ●For more recipes, see seafish.org

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Top-notch: Kai Mayfair offers fine dining