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Squash Excerpt from The Resilient Gardener

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Scientist/gardener Carol Deppe combines her passion for gardening with newly emerging scientific information from many fields — resilience science, climatology, climate change, ecology, anthropology, paleontology, sustainable agriculture, nutrition, health, and medicine. Deppe extends and illustrates these principles with detailed information about growing and using five key crops: potatoes, corn, beans, squash, and eggs. This excerpt focuses on the author's seven favorite winter squash varieties.

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Squash and Pumpkins

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ing� in�cold�mud�and�growing�vigorously� in�cool�weather.�The� plants� have� big� vines� that� run� 20�feet� in� all� directions.� However,� the� commercial�‘Sweet�Meat’�has�deteriorated�and�no�longer�has�thick�flesh,�big�seeds,�or�an�ability�to�excel�in�typi-cal� Oregon� spring� weather.� I� searched� for� years�to�find�a�line�that�was�still�not�too�badly�deterio-rated,� then� reselected� it� for� the� original� virtues.�The�results,�after�a�few�years�and�more�than�a�ton�of� squash,� is� ‘Sweet� Meat–Oregon� Homestead’�(see�note�10-2).

With�all�other�varieties�of�squash�I�have�grown,�the�immature�or�undersized�late�fruits�on�the�vine�don’t�keep�well.�However,�even�the�immature�and�subprime�fruits�of�‘Sweet�Meat’�keep�well.�They�don’t� continue� to� sweeten� as� prime� fruits� do.�But�they�don’t�deteriorate�either.�When�properly�harvested� and� stored,�nearly� every� ‘Sweet�Meat’�will�keep�without�losing�quality�until�the�follow-ing�summer�or�even�longer.�The�fact�that�even�the�culls� of� ‘Sweet� Meat’� keep� well� matters.� Those�culls�are�one�of�the�major�foods�for�my�duck�flock�in�winter�and�spring.�

Using ‘Sweet Meet’. Eat� no� ‘Sweet� Meat’�before� its� time.� I� follow� the� old� Oregon� tradi-tion,�and�open�the�first�of�the�‘Sweet�Meats’� for�Thanksgiving.�I�open�the�squash�with�a�big�bowie�knife�and�a�rubber�mallet�so�as�to�get�exact�halves.�Many� people� open� them� with� a� hatchet.� (The�thick,�leathery�skin�plus�thick�flesh�are�a�bit�much�for�an�ordinary�kitchen�knife.)�

One� traditional� way� of� fixing� ‘Sweet� Meat’� is�to�cut�it�into�3-inch�squares—which�are�2�to�3½�inches�deep,�depending�upon�just�where�they�were�on�the�fruit—then�bake�the�squares,�flesh�side�up.�Prepared� this�way,� the�outside�of� the�flesh�dries�and�caramelizes�and�is� like�candy,�with�an�inner�core�of�soft,�sweet�squash.�Such�chunks�of�‘Sweet�

Meat’�are�often�taken�to�potlucks�and�served,�hot�or�cold,�as�finger�food.�

My�usual�approach,�however,�is�to�bake�a�‘Sweet�Meat’� by� cutting� it� in� half,� removing� the� seeds,�and� placing� the� two� halves� cut� side� down� on� a�baking�sheet�and�baking�at�350°F�until�the�squash�is�soft�all�the�way�through.�(I�use�a�rack�position�midway�in�the�oven.)�I�don’t�scrape�or�clean�the�fruit’s�inside�surface�before�cooking;�I�just�remove�the�seeds.�The�coarser�flesh�near�the�seed�cavity�helps�protect�the�rest�from�drying�out�and�is�easier�to�remove�when�cooked.�The�squash�partly�bakes�and�partly�steams.�The�halves�generally�take�1½�to�2½�hours.�After�the�squash�is�soft�all�the�way�through� when� poked� with� a� fork,� I� remove� the�baking� sheet� with� the� squash,� chop� off� what� is�wanted�for�the�immediate�meal,�and�set�the�rest�aside�to�cool.�

I� usually� mash� ‘Sweet� Meat’� with� a� little� salt�and�butter,� though� it�also� tastes�great� just�plain.�Adding� sugar� is� overkill� and� would� make� the�squash� overly� sweet.� In� fact,� sometimes� I� take�

Boiling or Steaming Cut Squash

Don’t.� Boiling� or� steaming� cut� squash� or�squash� chunks� is� how� to� turn� a� delicious,�gourmet-quality,� perfectly� cured,� prime�winter� squash� into� watery� pulp� little� better�than� commercial� canned� pumpkin.� If� you’re�going� to� go� to� the� trouble� of� growing� good�winter�squash,�go�to�the�trouble�to�prepare�it�properly—that�is,�by�baking�or,�in�the�case�of�smaller�squashes,�by�pricking�them�and�boiling�them�whole.�Smaller�squash�or�pumpkins�can�also�be�pricked�and�baked�whole.

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The Resilient Gardener

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the�opposite�approach�and�make�Lemony�‘Sweet�Meat’� or� Limey� ‘Sweet� Meat’,� in� which� I� add�butter,� salt,�and�a� little� fresh-squeezed� lemon�or�lime�juice�for�a�delightful�sweet-and-sour�effect.�Sometimes�I�use�a�pint�of�frozen�‘Sweet�Meat’�as�the�basis� for�a� sweet-and-sour� stir-fry�or�a�hot-and-sweet-and-sour�soup.�This�variety�is�also�the�squash�I�usually�use�for�pies.

‘Sunshine F1’ I� usually� don’t� grow� hybrid� varieties,� as� they�aren’t�compatible�with�my�desire�to�save�my�own�seeds.�In�addition,�the�best�hybrid�squash�gener-ally�don’t�have�the�flavor�and�quality�of�the�best�open-pollinated� lines.� ‘Sunshine� F1’,� a� brilliant�red,�disc-shaped�squash�bred�by�Rob�Johnston�of�Johnny’s�Selected�Seeds,�is�an�exception.�It�weighs�about�3�to�5�pounds�and�is�a� little�moister�than�‘Sweet�Meat’.�The�flesh� is� just� as�fine-textured,�however,�and�almost�as�sweet.�The�flavor�is�some-what� different� but� equally� delicious.� ‘Sunshine’�is� the�only�red�squash�I’ve�ever�had�that� is� top-quality.� (‘Rouge�Vif�d’Etampes’,� for�example,� is�equally� scarlet� but� is� coarse� in� texture,� watery,�and� lacking� in�flavor.� ‘Delicious’� isn’t� especially�delicious;�neither�is�‘Boston�Marrow’.)�The�flesh�thickness� of� ‘Sunshine’� is� comparable� to� the�better� squash� of� its� size.� ‘Sunshines’� keep� until�January�when�harvested�and�cured�as�I�describe,�only�improving�in�quality�the�entire�time.�(They�deteriorate� rapidly� thereafter.)� ‘Sunshine’� fruits�have�a�medium-thick�leathery�skin�that�is�easy�to�cut�open�without�resorting�to�heroic�tactics.�The�plant�is�early�and�is�a�vigorous�half-bush�type.�It�can�produce�prime�squash�here�in�Oregon�even�in�cool�summers�or�on�limited�water.�

We�like�the�max�part�of�our�squash�patch�to�have�plenty�of�‘Sunshines’�as�well�as�‘Sweet�Meats’.�The�

‘Sweet�Meat’�is�a�full-season�squash�that�produces�the�most�food�the�most�efficiently�in�most�years.�But� sometimes� circumstances� don’t� cooperate,�and� we� don’t� really� have� a� full� season.� In� those�years,� the� ‘Sweet� Meats’� may� not� fully� mature.�‘Sunshine’�gives�us�those�spectacular�flashes�of�red�in�the�pumpkin�patch�at�harvest�each�year,�but�is�also�what�we�depend�upon�to�produce�gourmet-quality�squash�even�from�a�late�planting�or�when�the�season�is�truncated�or�things�go�wrong.�‘Sweet�Meat’� makes� superb� squash� only� when� it’s� well�grown.� ‘Sunshine’,� on� the� other� hand,� seems� to�make�superb�squash�even�when�poorly�grown.�

One� year� Nate� grew� a� dryland� garden� here�in� maritime� Oregon,� where� it� doesn’t� rain� all�summer.� He� bucket-irrigated� each� squash� plant�twice—that� is,� gave� each� plant� two� buckets� of�water� twice� during� the� season,� for� a� total� of� 20�gallons� per� plant.� The� buckets� were� 5-gallon�buckets�with�small�pinholes�in�them�that�fed�the�water�out�slowly.�Most�squash�plants�of�most�vari-eties�were� so� stunted�using� this�growing� system�that� they� produced� nothing.� The� ‘Sweet� Meat’�and� the� ‘Sunshine’,� however,� both� produced�decent� amounts� of� good-looking� fruits,� in� spite�of�the�water�limitation.�The�‘Sweet�Meat’�fruits,�though,�were�subprime�and�inferior.�We�fed�them�all� to� the� ducks� and� Nate’s� cow� and� pig.� The�‘Sunshines’�were�prime.�The�other�winter�squash�that� produced� prime� fruit� under� these� condi-tions� was� ‘Katy� Stokes’� Sugar� Meat’.� (‘Sweet�Meat’–finished� pork,� by� the� way,� is� spectacu-larly� delicious.� The� meat� is� actually� sweet,� and�the�distinctive�flavor�and�aroma�of�the�squash�is�unmistakable.)�

In�2009,�when�Nate�and�I�got�such�a�late�start�on�our�newly�leased�land,�we�planted�fewer�‘Sweet�Meats’�and�more�‘Sunshines’.�We�weren’t�sure�we�

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would�have�enough�time�for�the�‘Sweet�Meats’�to�fully� mature.�That� proved� to� be� a� good� choice.�On�top�of�the� late�start,�we�had�a�cool�summer.�The�‘Sweet�Meats’�that�year�were�good�compared�with�most� squash�but�not�nearly�what� they� can�be—not�prime.�The�‘Sunshines’,�though,�were�as�spectacular�as�ever.�

‘Katy Stokes’ Sugar Meat’ Oregonian�Katy�Stokes�maintained�her�own�line�of� ‘Sweet� Meat’,� and� each� year� as� she� ate� the�squash,�she�saved�seed�from�the�very�sweetest�fruit.�I�believe� ‘Katy�Stokes’�Sugar�Meat’� represents� a�cross� between� ‘Sweet� Meat’� and� a� smaller� blue�squash,�which�Katy�Stokes�then�stabilized.�‘Sugar�Meat’�plants�are�vigorous�vines.�The�fruits�are�less�than�half�the�size�of�‘Sweet�Meat’,�running�5–12�pounds.�The�flesh�is�as�thick�as�other�varieties�its�size�and�is,�if�anything,�sweeter�even�than�‘Sweet�Meat’.� The� flavor� of� ‘Sugar� Meat’� is� excellent,�much�better�than�that�of�most�squash,�and�right�up� there� in� that� elite� league�with� ‘Sweet�Meat’,�‘Buttercup’,� and� ‘Sunshine’.� I� prefer� the� more�multidimensional� flavor� of� well-grown� ‘Sweet�Meat’,�as�well�as�its�size�and�thickness�of�flesh—in�a�good�year.�However,�‘Sugar�Meat’�squash�are�considerably�better�than�‘Sweet�Meat’�in�a�bad�year.�In�the�year�of�Nate’s�dryland�garden�experiment,�with�the�squash�limited�to�20�gallons�of�water�per�plant� for� the� season,� ‘Katy� Stokes’� Sugar� Meat’�(along� with� ‘Sunshine’)� produced� prime� food,�while�the�‘Sweet�Meats’�were�used�only�for�savory�dishes�and�duck�food.�

‘Katy� Stokes’� Sugar� Meat’� was� initially� intro-duced� by� Nichols� Garden� Nursery� under� the�name�‘Katy’s�Sweet�Sweet�Meat’.�It�is�becoming�popular�in�markets�around�here�as�‘Sweet�Meat’,�which� causes� confusion.� (Modifiers� tend� to� get�

lost� in�marketing.)�Nichols,�with�Katy’s�concur-rence,� has� subsequently� changed� the� name� to�‘Katy� Stokes’� Sugar� Meat’.� ‘Katy� Stokes’� Sugar�Meat’�is�a�completely�new,�unique�variety,�with�a�different�size�and�flavor�from�‘Sweet�Meat’,�and�with� its� own� special� virtues.� Market� growers� as�well�as�gardeners�should�take�note.

‘Buttercup–Burgess’ This�squash�is�an�all-time�classic�heirloom�squash.�It�is�a�blocky,�dark�green�squash�of�3�to�5�pounds�with�a�button�at�the�end.�‘Buttercup’�is�a�vigorous,�productive�vine.�It’s�generally�better�quality�than�most�of�the�variant�Buttercup�varieties�that�have�been�bred�and�introduced�since.�

Hubbards There� are� many� Hubbard� varieties� that� are�especially� popular� in� New� England,� with� ‘Blue�Hubbard’�the�one�most�mentioned�with�respect�to�quality.�The�name�‘Hubbard’�seems�to�represent�a�shape—fat� in� the�middle�and�pointy�at� the� two�ends—more� than� a�genetic� ancestry.�Traditional�Hubbard� varieties� were� big� squash,� with� some�varieties�going�to�50�pounds�or�more.�The�clas-sic�‘Blue�Hubbard’�has�flesh�about�1�to�1½�inches�thick�and�a�rich,�distinctive�flavor.�There�are�now�also�many�smaller�Hubbard�varieties.�

In� my� Oregon� garden,� ‘Sweet� Meat–Oregon�Homestead’�far�outperforms�any�of�a�half�dozen�Hubbard� varieties� I� have� tried,� for� quantity� of�flesh�per�weight� of� fruit,� sweetness,� flavor,� fine-grained�texture,�and�keeping�ability.�I�also�prefer�the�thick,�leathery�skin�of�the�‘Sweet�Meat’�to�the�hard�shell�of�the�Hubbard.�The�‘Sweet�Meat’�skin�is� thick� enough� to� give� good� protection� to� the�fruit�but�can�still�be�eaten�by�livestock�such�as�pigs�and�milk�cows.�My�ducks�clean�up�all�the�bits�of�

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