SPECS - Cape Waterproofing · Web viewStrip and remove the clay tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site. Conduct a thorough inspection of all roof support structures,

SPECS

Index

1) Side and Header Wall flashing: (torch on)

2) Side and Header Wall flashing: (Uniflash)

3) Parapet walls down onto a roof (Not previously waterproofed)

4) Parapet walls down onto a roof (Previously waterproofed)

5) Steel hip and ridge cappings.

6) Verge flashing (torch on)

7) Valley Re-lining

8) Valley Re-Lining (Slate Tiles)

9) Chimney (Torch on)

10) Around Vents / chimney’s

11) Skylight

12) Soaker Sheet Around chimney (Steel)

13) Soaker sheet around a chimney (Torch on)

14) Torch on soaker sheet behind a protruding parapet wall.

15) Dorma / Bay windows

16) Ridge cappings

17) Ridge cappings – flashing and re-caulking.18) Cement ridge cappings

19) Ridge Caulking (Asbestos Ridge Caps)

20) Flashing between ridge cappings.

21) Re-caulking /Hydrosealing off face brick walls

22) Roof bolts

23) Malthoid (Mazista slates)

24) Malthoid (Asbestos slates)

25) Patches – Torch on

26) Roof cleaning and coating

27) Flashing between the tiled roof of the house and IBR flat roof of the extension.

28) Flashing between the upper IBR roof of the house and the lower IBR roof of the extension.29) Flashing between the tiled roof of the house and the parapet wall.30) Flashing between the tiled roof of the house into the gutter.31) Steel Box gutter Re-lining (Full)32) Steel Box gutter (Torch on-Seams only)/(Re-lining)33) Fiberglass Box gutter (Torch on-Seams only)

34) Box gutter Re-lining using a fiberglass re-liner

35) Waterproofing of an internal gutter (sheets)36) Waterproofing of an internal gutter (previously waterproofed – tiled roof)37) Parapet walls down into an internal gutter (previously waterproofed)38) Replacement of Fiberglass Gutter

39) Replacement of Fiberglass gutter (sheets)

40) Gutter joint spec (joints only)

41) Gutter relining with tiles one side and parapet wall the other side

42) Gutter relining with sheets on the one side and parapet wall the other side

43) Gutter relining with sheets on both sides

44) Gutter relining with tiles both sides of the gutter

45) Patches – fiberglass tissue

46) Gutters Joints - Rubberizing

47) Parapet walls (Tops of parapet walls not previously waterproofed)

48) Parapet walls (Tops of parapet walls previously waterproofed) 49) Painting of parapet walls fiberglass tissue.

50) Painting of parapet walls Geoflex and Glascote 60 fibermesh

51) Side walls of a pitched roof with cement tiles (Tops of parapet walls previously waterproofed down onto the cement tiles) 52) Painting of exterior walls Geoflex and Glascote 60 fibermesh53) Walls – Cementitious waterproofing system positive/negative pressure (Prostruct 526)

54) Walls – Cementitious waterproofing system positive/negative pressure (Prostruct 601 Cemproof)

55) Waterproofing of exterior walls (Bituthene 3000 and Prostruct 601 Cemproof)

56) Cavity walls (Newly built – not previously waterproofed)

57) Cavity walls (Previously waterproofed)

58) Spalling repairs (Prostruct)

59) Spalling repairs (Geoflex)

60) Waterproofing of shower floors (Prostruct 601 Cemproof)

61) Retaining walls – previously waterproofed (torch on

62) Tanking:

63) Duraflex64) Acrylic membrane waterproofing

65) Expansion Joints

66) Wooden framed windows and doors.

67) Waterproofing of aluminium framed windows (previously built surfaces)

68) Sealing between window frame and wall

69) Waterproofing around a window.

70) Sealing a hole in a wall

71) Flat deck (Concrete surface substrate)

72) Flat deck (Previously waterproofed concrete decks)

73) Flat deck (Wooden – Not previously waterproofed)

74) Flat deck (Wooden – Previously waterproofed)

75) Waterproofing of balconies (with no sliding doors in place yet)

76) Waterproofing of balconies (with sliding doors)

77) Waterproofing of a concrete deck (Bituthene 3000)

78) Solarshield

79) Seam Service

80) Tiling:

81) Flowerboxes

82) Roof Replacement (Sheets)

83) Roof replacement ( snaplock / cliplock)

84) Roof Replacement (Slate Tiles)

85) Roof replacement (Cement tiles)86) Roof replacement (Clay tiles)87) Replacement (Slate tiles)88) Replacement (Cement tiles)

89) Replacement of lighting sheets

90) Light sheet and frame replacement

91) Georgian Wire Glass and Panel Replacement.

92) Ceiling Replacement Spec

93) Gutter clean spec

94) Gutter clean and coat spec

95) Downpipe installation

96) New PVC Gutter Installation

97) New Aluminium Gutter installation

98) New fiberglass gutter installation.

99) Changing the direction of a gutter.

WE NEED A HEADER BOX INSTALLATION SPEC PLEASE

Waterproofing of:

Roof

FlashingsParapet

Ridge

Verge

Valley

Chimneys

Vents

Sky light

Dorma / Bay windows

Soaker sheets

CaulkingRidge

Hips

Roof bolts

Malthoid

Patches

Internal gutter

External gutter

Walls

Top of the walls

External waterproofing

Cavity wall waterproofing

Internal waterproofing

Shower walls

Windows

Doors

Sliding doors

Painting

Floors – decks and balconies:

Concrete

Timber

Tiled

Balcony outlets

Basements

Water features – Internal and external

Roofing:

Replacement of coverings

Pitched – natural slate

clay,

cement,

asbestos – fiber cement,

steel

alunminium

Ridges

Hips

Valleys

Verge – Fascias and Barge boards.

Flat - steel,

aluminium

polycarb,

asbestos – fiber cement

Lighting sheets and GW glass

Painting

Bird proofing

Sky light

Ceilings – replace and paint

Eves – replace and restore, paint.

Gutters –external - alu, pvc, asbestos / fiber cement

Internal - Relining

Header boxes

Downpipes

Balcony outlets

Waterproofing

1)Side and Header Wall flashing: (torch on)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the side/header wall flashing. Remove all rubble from site.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps.

· Apply a heat/light reflectant silver aluminium paint to protect underlying waterproofing system against UV rays.

2)Side and Header wall flashing: (Uniflash)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the side/header wall flashing. Remove all rubble from site.

· Prime substrate using Neoprene Primer

· Apply a 3mm self-adhesive bituminous waterproofing system to the previously primed surface

· Apply a single coat pure roof acrylic paint to protect underlying waterproofing system.

3)Parapet walls down onto a roof (Not previously waterproofed)

· Wirebrush tops of parapet walls to remove all dirt, algae and moss caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Conduct a thorough inspection confirming a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the tops of the parapet walls and down the inside of the parapet flashing out onto the “ROOF” (Specify)

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps and allowing the waterproofing system to run down onto the “ROOF”.


NOTE: Customer is responsible to color match any waterproofing systems applied to the parapets by us.

4)Parapet walls down onto a roof (Previously waterproofed)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the tops of the parapet walls. Remove all rubble from site.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the tops of the parapet walls and down the inside of the parapet flashing out onto the “ROOF” (Specify)

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps and allowing the waterproofing system to run down onto the “ROOF”.

· Apply fiberglass tissue to the outer downturn of the parapet wall.



5)Steel ridge and hip cappings

· Strip and remove steel edge cappings. Remove cappings from site.

· Supply and fit new 0.58mm galvanised steel cappings, securing each using 0,95 Self-drive bolts and self-sealing washers.

6)Verge flashing: (torch on)

· Remove the barge boards from the verge and stack to place back later.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the verge. Remove all rubble from site.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the roof tiles.



· Place back the barge boards to the verge of the roof.

7)Valley Re-lining

· Strip and remove roof tiles adjacent to valley so as to expose the existing valley.

· Lay a 4mm heat fused torch-on waterproofing system down the full length of the valley securing the waterproofing system to adjacent batons using Flathead clout nails.


· Place back the previously removed roof tiles.

8)Valley Re-lining (Slate Tiles)

· Strip and remove slate roof tiles adjacent to valley so as to expose the existing valley.



· Replace damaged malthoid under tiles adjacent to the valley that has been previously worked on.

· Place back the previously removed slate roof tiles.

9)Chimney (torch on)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems around the chimney, down to a bare underlying substrate. Remove all rubble from site.

· Strip the last row of tiles behind the chimney to gain access to the timber structure.

· Fix a 4mm waterproofing system to the last row of battens in the roof.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the chimney and allow solution to flash off.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas, allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps.

· Counter flash, where necessary, using a self-adhesive 300mm wide uniflash waterproofing system.

· Flash off counter flashing using bitu-seal plastic.



10)Around Vents / chimney’s

· Strip and remove backing plates behind the steel vents / chimney so as to expose the steel sheets below.

· Conduct a thorough inspection of the sheets behind the vent / chimney, replacing any unsalvageable sheets at customer’s consent and for customer’s account.

· Strip and remove the existing waterproofing system around the vent / chimney.

· Prime area around the specified vents / chimney using Neoprene Primer.

· Apply a 3mm Uniflash waterproofing system to area around the specified vents / chimney.

· Apply a Geoflex top coat to protect the underlying waterproofing system.

11)Skylight (torch on)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems around the skylight, down to a bare underlying substrate. Remove all rubble from site.


· Remove last row of tiles, fixing a 4mm waterproofing system to the last row of battens in the roof.

· To release the roof sheets closest to the top of the skylight, fixing a 4mm waterproofing system to the last row of battens in the roof.






· Fix in place the previously removed roof sheets.

Please note that although the membrane is water tight we cannot guarantee that the design of the skylight is fault free.

12)Soaker sheet behind a chimney (Steel)

· Strip and remove present waterproofing system around the discussed chimney on the IBR roof.

· Supply and fit a custom made galvanized 0.5mm steel soaker sheet extending from the header wall down to the discussed chimney, ensuring that the soaker sheet covers all profiles of the IBR roof behind the discussed chimney

· Prime area using a bituminous waterproofing primer.



13)Torch on soaker sheet behind a chimney

· Strip and remove present waterproofing system around the discussed chimney on the IBR roof.

· Apply and 4mm torch on waterproofing membrane soaker sheet extending from the header wall down to the discussed chimney, ensuring that the soaker sheet covers all profiles of the IBR roof behind the discussed chimney.




14)Torch on soaker sheet behind a protruding parapet wall.

· Strip and remove present waterproofing systems behind the protruding parapet wall on the IBR roof.

· Apply and 4mm torch on waterproofing membrane soaker sheet extending from the header wall down to the discussed protruding parapet wall, ensuring that the soaker sheet covers all profiles of the IBR roof behind the discussed wall.




15)Dorma / Bay windows

· Strip and remove the old waterproofing systems around the dorma / bay windows.

· Remove rubble from site.

· Remove / Release the last row of roof tiles / sheets above the dorma / bay window as to expose the timber roof structure.

· Fix a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the last row of battens in the roof.

· Strip and remove roof tiles / sheets adjacent to valley so as to expose the existing valley.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the dorma / bay window’ roof, sides and front and allow solution to flash off.






16)Ridge and hip cappings (asbestos / fiber cement)

· Chip out and remove loose mortar between ridge tiles.

· Re-caulk between the ridge tiles using red oxide and mortar mix.

· Although all care will be taken to handle the tiles with care, in the event that ridge, hip or roof tiles are damaged in the process it will need to be replaced and be for your account.

17)Ridge and hip cappings – flashing and re-caulking.


· Remove and stack for re-use the tiles on the ridge and hips.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the roof tiles.



· Place back the tiles on the ridge and hips and re-caulk between the ridge tiles using red oxide and mortar mix.

18)Cement ridge and hip cappings.


· Remove the ridge tiles as to gain access to the ridge and stack for re-use.

· Determine whether it is necessary to apply a waterproofing membrane on the roof tiles and below the ridge tiles.

· Report to the client and determine a price to go ahead.

· Upon the client’s approval, apply a heat fused waterproofing system to the tiles below the ridge caps.


· Place back the previously removed ridge tiles and fasten with a mortar mix.

· Re-caulk between the ridge tiles using red oxide and mortar mix.

· Allow to dry for 24 hours.

· Although all care will be taken to handle the tiles with care, in the event that ridge, hip or roof tiles are damaged in the process it will need to be replaced and be for your account.

· Apply a coat of masonary primer to bare cent surfaces.

· Apply a coat of midas 240 to match existing paint work.

19)Ridge Caulking (Asbestos Ridge Caps)

· Strip and remove loose paint by means of a wire brush.

· Apply a mortar mixture of cement, sand and bonding liquid into gaps of the ridge caps.

· Allow to dry for 24 hours.

· Apply a coat of masonary primer to bare cent surfaces.

· Apply a coat of midas 240 to match existing paint work.

20)Flash between ridgecaps

· Strip existing ridge caps and stack for re-use.

· Nail torch-on index system to batton and flash out onto sheet.


· Re-place previously removed ridge caps.

21)Re-caulking/Hydrosealing off face brick walls

· By means of a hydro jet clean the discussed face brick wall, removing all dirt and debris caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Re-caulk areas between the face brick where necessary.

· Apply Baysilone Impregnating Agent LO-N to the side walls of the house as discussed, to create a sealing water barrier.

· Conduct a thorough inspection of all caulking where needed between the brick work.

· Re-caulk areas between the face brick where necessary.

22)Roof Bolts

· Remove previous waterproofing around roof bolts.

· Inspect roof sheets for damaged or cracked sheets.

· Re-secure roof bolts where necessary.

· Seal all roof bolts with a Bituseal Plastic waterproofing agent.


OR

· Conduct a thorough inspection of all roof bolts on (roof type), sealing each using bituseal plastic and replace damaged bolts.

23)Malthoid (mazista slates)

· Strip and remove mazista slate tiles and stack for re-use.

· Strip and remove old damaged malthoid.


· Supply and fit to battons, new 2 ply malthoid.

· Secure using clout nails.

· Re-pack mazista tiles and secure using clout nails.

24)Malthoid ( asbestos slate )

· Strip and remove the asbestos slate tiles and stack for re-use.

· Strip and remove old damaged malthoid, if there are any.


· Supply and fit to battens, new 2 ply malthoid.

· Secure using clout nails.

· Re-pack the previously removed asbestos slate roof tiles and secure using clout nails.

25)Patches – torch on

· Strip and remove previous waterproofing system to bare underlying substrate.

· Clean areas to be worked on to provide a good bondable substrate

· Clean steel with rust neutralizer

· Prime area with bitiuminous waterproofing primer

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on system to previously primed areas

· Apply a UV reflectant, silver aluminum paint to all torch on areas.

Note: While the patch itself may be watertight we cannot guarantee the areas around the patch to be watertight. A patch only solves obvious problems but does not take care of unseen problems.

26)Roof cleaning and coating

· By means of a hydro-jet clean and remove all dirt, moss and algae caused by atmospheric pollution to the (roof type)

· Wash out all gutters and rinse down all walls to remove any excess dirt caused by the cleaning of the roof.

· Apply an anti-fungal solution to the previously cleaned roof so as to retard the growth of algae spores.

· Conduct a thorough inspection of all roof bolts on (roof type), sealing each using bituseal plastic and replace damaged bolts.

· Apply a single / two, hand painted/sprayed, coat of pure roof acrylic UV-resistant paint

27)Flashing between the tiled roof of the house and IBR flat roof of the extension.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing system between the tiled roof of the house and the IBR flat roof to the extension.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the IBR roof.

· Apply the 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps.



28)Flashing between the upper IBR flat roof of the house and the lower IBR flat roof of the extension.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing system between the upper IBR roof of the house and the lower IBR flat roof to the extension.

· To loosen the roof sheets of the upper roof sheets, fixing a 4mm waterproofing system to the last row of battens in the roof.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the lower IBR roof.



· Fix in place the previously removed roof sheets.

29)Flashing between the tiled roof of the house and the parapet wall.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing system between the tiled roof of the house and the parapet wall.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the parapet wall.




30)Flashing between the tiled roof of the house into the gutter.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing system between the tiled roof of the house and the gutter.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the gutter.




31)Steel Box gutter Re-lining (Full)

· Clean out existing box gutter, stripping and removing any previously waterproofing system.

· Prime the full length of the box gutter using a bituminous waterproofing primer.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps.




32)Steel Box gutter (Torch-on-Seams only)/(Re-lining)

· Clean out existing box gutter, stripping and removing any previously waterproofing system on the seams of the gutter.

· Prime all seams of box gutter using a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas.


Add in for re-lining only

· Apply a single coat rubberflex bituminous waterproofing system to the full length of the gutter.

33)Fiberglass Box gutter (Torch-on Seams only)

· Clean out existing box gutter, stripping and removing all dirt, algae and moss caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Remove all grease and oils to create a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a fiberglass membrane saturated with a resin to all box gutter seams.

34)Box gutter Re-lining using a fiberglass re-liner

· Clean out existing box gutter, stripping and removing all dirt, algae and moss caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Sheets - Release and remove the lower roof sheets adjacent to the boxgutter so as to get access to existing boxgutter, stacking sheets for re-use.

· Tiled roof – Strip and remove the last two rows of tiles adjacent to the boxgutter so as to get access to existing boxgutter.

· Supply and fit a light industrial fiberglass re-liner seated in the existing box gutter, seaming all joints using a fiberglass membrane saturated with a resin.

· Sheets – Replace previously removed roof sheets securing each using (self-drive/topspeed/hook) bolts and self-sealing washers.

Tiled roof - replace previously removed roof tiles for the last two rows.

35)Waterproofing of an internal gutter ( sheets )

· Strip and remove the last row of roof sheets to the garage, so as to gain access to the existing gutter system.

· Fix a 4mm bituminous waterproofing membrane to the batten above the internal gutter.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the internal gutter.



· Place back the previously removed roof sheets.

36)Waterproofing of an internal gutter (Previously waterproofed – tiled roof)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the internal gutter on the parapet wall. Remove all rubble from site.


· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing system between the tiled roof of the house and the gutter.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the gutter and the side wall.




37)Parapet walls down into an internal gutter (Previously waterproofed)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems to the internal gutter on the parapet wall. Remove all rubble from site.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the tops of the parapet walls and down the inside of the parapet flashing onto the internal gutter.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps and allowing the waterproofing system to run down onto the internal gutter.


38)Replacement of Fiberglass Gutter

· Strip and remove the last row of tiles to the main house, so as to gain access to the existing gutter system.

· Strip and remove the existing gutter system.

· Supply and fit a custom-made light industrial fiberglass gutter system, allowing for a wing to extend below the cement roof tiles, to create a larger girth to the gutter system.

· Seal all gutter joints using a pure fiberglass resin so as to create a “seamless” gutter.


39)Replacement of Fiberglass Gutter (Sheets)

· Release the roof sheets closest to the internal gutter to the roof, so as to gain access to the existing gutter system.

· Strip and remove the existing gutter system.

· Supply and fit a custom-made light industrial fiberglass gutter system, allowing for a wing to extend below the roof sheets, to create a larger girth to the gutter system.


· Re-secure the previously removed roof sheets.

40)Gutter joint spec (joints only)

· Clean out existing gutter joints, stripping and removing any previously waterproofing system on the seams of the gutter.

· Apply a single coat rubberflex/bituseal plastic to the joints of the gutter.

OR

· Clean out existing gutter joints, stripping and removing any previously waterproofing system on the seams of the gutter.


· If necessary, make good the surface in order to obtain a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate and allow solution to flash off.



41)Gutter relining with tiles one side and parapet wall the other side.

· Strip and stack of re-use the last two rows of tiles adjacent to the gutter so as to grain assess to the gutter system.

· Strip and remove any old and damaged waterproofing systems previously used in the gutter.

· Clean the gutter so as to create a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a bituminous waterproofing primer to the apex and inner side of the parapet wall

· Nail to the row of last battens, using flat head clout nails, a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system allowing the waterproofing to line the full girth of the gutter, dressing the waterproofing up onto parapet wall adjacent to the gutter.

· Place back the the previously removed tiles.

42)Gutter relining with sheets on the one side and parapet wall the other side.

· Release the roof bolts of the roof sheet adjacent to the gutter so as to grain assess to the gutter system.



· Nail to the last row of battens, using flat head clout nails, a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system allowing the waterproofing to line the full girth of the gutter, dressing the waterproofing up onto parapet wall adjacent to the gutter.

· Re-secure the roof sheets using new 95mm self-drive blots and self sealing washes.

43)Gutter relining with sheets on both sides of the gutter

· Release the roof bolts of the roof sheet adjacent to the gutter so as to grain assess to the gutter system.



· Nail to the last row of battens, using flat head clout nails, a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system allowing the waterproofing to line the full girth of the gutter.

· Re-secure the roof sheets using new 95mm self-drive blots and self sealing washes.

44)Gutter relining with tiles both sides of the gutter

· Strip and stack of re-use the last two rows of tiles to either side of the gutter so as to grain assess to the gutter system.



· Apply a bituminous waterproofing primer to the apex and inner side of the parapet wall

· Nail to the row of last battens, using flat head clout nails, a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system allowing the waterproofing to line the full girth of the gutter.

· Place back the the previously removed tiles

45)Patches – Fiber glass tissue

· Clean areas to be worked on to provide a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a pure fiberglass resin to fiberglass tissue so as to create a “patch”.

Note: A patch only provides a temporary solution.

46)Gutters Joints - Rubberizing

· Clean out the existing gutter(s) discussed, removing all dirt and debris.

· Apply a Rubbaflex waterproofing agent to the full length of the gutter, imbedding a membrane on each gutter joint.

47)Parapet walls (Tops of parapet walls not previously waterproofed)

· Wire-brush tops of parapet walls to remove all dirt, algae and moss caused by atmospheric pollution.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the tops of the parapet walls.




48)Parapet walls (Tops of parapet walls previously waterproofed)



· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the tops of the parapet walls.


· Apply fiberglass tissue to the outer downturn of the parapet wall.



49)Painting of parapet Walls Fibreglass tissue:

· Scrub tops and sides of parapet walls using wire brushes.

· Ensure that all contaminants and flaking paint have been removed.

· Apply one coat of midas masonry primer embedded with fibre glass tissue.

· Apply two top coats of midas 240 to match existing colours.

50)Painting of parapet Walls Geoflex and Glascote 60 Fibre mesh:

· Scrub tops and sides of parapet walls using wire brushes.


· Apply one coat of Geoflex primer, by means of brush or roller, to prepared surface and allow to dry.

· Apply a base coat of Geoflex to the primed surface and immediately embed a layer of Glascote 60, smoothing with a brush. Allow to dry.

· Apply a second coat of Geoflex Liquid Plastic and allow to dry.

· Apply a third coat of Geoflex Liquid Plastic if necessary

51)Side parapet walls of a pitched roof with cement tiles (Tops of parapet walls previously waterproofed down onto the cement tiles.)


· Wire-brush tops of parapet walls to remove all dirt, algae and moss caused by atmospheric pollution.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the substrate on the side of the parapet walls.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system from the side of the parapet wall down onto the cement roof tiles previously primed, allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps.

· Counter-flash, where necessary, using a self-adhesive 300mm wide uniflash waterproofing system.

· Apply a base coat of Geoflex to the primed surface and immediately embed a layer of fibre glass tissue from the top of the parapet wall down onto the uniflash, smoothing with a brush. Allow to dry.


· Apply a top coat of midas 240 to match existing colours.

· Apply a heat/light reflectant silver aluminium paint to protect the underlying torched on waterproofing system against UV rays.

52)Painting of exterior walls Geoflex and Glascote 60 Fibre mesh:

· By means of a hydro-jet clean and remove all dirt, loose and flaking paint, moss and algae caused by atmospheric pollution to the exterior wall.





· Apply a third coat of Geoflex Liquid Plastic if necessary.

53)Walls – cementitious waterproofing system, positive/negative pressure (Prostruct 526)

· Strip the paint from the wall to the area where the waterproofing system is to be applied.


· Make good the surface in order to obtain a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a thick 2 coat cementitious waterproofing system by brush ensuring that there are no pinholes or voids.

· Allow the applications to completely harden (4 - 8 hours) before applying next coat.

· Thoroughly dampen hardened waterproofing before applying additional coats.

· Apply Cretestone to the previously applied cementitious waterproofing system in order to prepare the surface to receive paint.

· Apply one coat Midas Masonry Primer.

· Apply two coats Midas 240, to approved shade.

54)Walls – cementitious waterproofing system positive pressure only (Prostruct 601 Cemproof)


· Concrete surfaces to be clean and sound and free of laitance, loose materials and contaminants. Thoroughly soak the substrate with clean water prior to application.

· Mix Cem-Proof 601 and water in equal proportions by volume. Mix clean building sand with Portland cement in equal proportions by volume and then add diluted CemProof 601 and continue mixing until a lump-free consistency is achieved. Continue mixing during application to ensure no settling.

· While the surface is still damp, apply a prime coat of CemProof 601 slurry.

· Soak the pre-cut fabric into the mixed CemProof 601 mixture, then remove and apply the soaked CemProof Fabric into the prime coat.

· Smooth the fabric and ensure to eliminate all air bubbles. Once the entire area has been covered apply a second coat of CemProof 601 slurry and allow to dry.

· Apply a final coat to complete the application.

55)Waterproofing of exterior walls (Bituthene 3000 and Prostruct 601 Cemproof)

· To strip off the plaster from the affected exterior walls by mechanical means.

· To ensure that all surfaces are free from ice, frost or condensation.

· To make good the surface to be dry, free from sharp protrusions and any hollows filled with high strength mortar.

· Horizontal and vertical surfaces shall be primed with one coat of Primer B1 or Primer B2 applied by brush or roller and allowed to dry completely before the application of the Bituthene 3000

· Apply a 2mm cold applied flexible waterproofing membrane, Bituthene® 3000, combining a special high performance cross laminated, HDPE carrier film with a self-adhesive rubber bitumen compound, allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns

· Apply Bituthene 3000 by peeling back the protective silicone release paper and applying the self-adhesive face on to the surface to ensure good initial bond, allowing for 50mm minimum overlaps at side and ends ensuring complete adhesion and continuity between the layers.

· Apply bitumen primer and sand to the Bituthene 3000 as to prepare the surface to receive a cementitious waterproofing system and plaster.



· Soak the pre-cut fabric into the mixed CemProof 601 mixture, then remove and apply the soaked CemProof Fabric into the prime coat.



56)Cavity walls (Newly built – not previously waterproofed)

· Prepare a flat smooth good bondable surface.

· Prepare the cavity wall by placing an aluminium angle iron to the inside of the inside cavity brick course.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to obtain a good bondable substrate, in order to receive the waterproofing system, and allow solution to flash-off.


· After the cavity cove has been prepared, apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to obtain a good bondable substrate and allow solution to flash-off.


· To apply a cementitious waterproofing system to the inside of the cavity wall to the second and third row of brick courses.

57)Cavity walls (Previously waterproofed)

· Prepare the area by opening up the inside walls as to gain access to the inside of the cavity wall.

· Remove the previous waterproofing system.

· Remove the rubble from site.

· Prepare a cove to the cavity wall to receive the waterproofing system.

· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to obtain a good bondable substrate and allow solution to flash-off.


Note: It is agreed that a building contractor closes up the brickwork

58)Spalling repairs. ( Prostruct )

· Scrub walls using wire brushes.



· Make good the surface in order to obtain a good bondable substrate.

· Apply a thick 2 coat cementitious waterproofing system by brush ensuring that there are no pinholes or voids.

· Allow the applications to completely harden (4 - 8 hours) before applying next coat.

· Thoroughly dampen hardened waterproofing before applying additional coats.

· Apply Cretestone to the previously applied cementitious waterproofing system in order to prepare the surface to receive paint.

· Apply one coat Midas Masonry Primer.

· Apply two coats Midas 240, to approved shade.

59)Spalling repairs. ( Geoflex )

· Scrub walls using wire brushes.





· Apply a third coat of Geoflex Liquid Plastic if necessary.

60)Waterproofing of shower floors. (Prostruct 601 Cemproof)

· Strip and remove the tiles by mechanical means.

· Strip and remove the previously applied waterproofing system.

· Remove the rubble from site.


· Make good the surface to ensure a good bondable substrate.

· Concrete surfaces to be clean and sound and free of laitance, loose materials and contaminants. Thoroughly soak the substrate with clean water prior to application.



· Soak the pre-cut fabric into the mixed CemProof 601 mixture, then remove and apply the soaked CemProof Fabric into the prime coat, allowing for 75 - 100mm upturns and applying the membrane into the water outlet.



Please note that we do not include redoing the tiling after the waterproofing has been done.

61)Retaining walls – previously waterproofed ( Torch on )

· Excavate the area as to expose the retaining wall and the foundation.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems, if necessary, down to a bare underlying substrate. Remove all rubble from site.


· Make good the surface if necessary in order to receive the waterproofing system.


· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps. Include a 200mm downturn onto the foundation where possible.


· Flash off counter-flashing using bitu-seal plastic.

· Install a kaytech agricultural draining system.

· Fill up the previously excavated area ensuring that there are nothing that can puncture the waterproofing system.

· Touch up the paint of the wall.

62)Tanking:

· Strip and remove tiles / paving to the area discussed, and excavate the earth to foundation level.

· Clean the wall, removing all dirt and previous waterproofing system.

· Prime the wall below the weep holes using a bituminous waterproofing primer.


· Supply and fit a Delta MS8 dimple sheet to protect the waterproofing system.

· Back fill with soil, compact as required.

· Place back the tiles / paving where previously removed. (Tiles supplied by customer.)

· Apply a key coat to the floor area to obtain a good bondable substrate.

· Tile all walkways using a 240 x 240 Terra Rossa non-slip tile.

· Grout between all newly laid tiles, using an epoxy grout.

63)Duraflex

· Chip and remove the damaged plaster to the lower section of wall discussed. Remove rubble from site.

· Apply a two coat application of Duraflex at 90 to each other to create a waterproof barrier on the floor and wall discussed.

· Re-plaster the discussed section of wall to make good.

· Paint the room using a masonry primer.

· Apply a two coat application of Midas 240 to all interior walls of the room discussed.

64)Acrylic Membrane Waterproofing

· Strip and remove the old and damaged waterproofing system for the discussed area, and remove from site.

· Conduct a through in of the substrate insuring a clean bondable substrate

· Apply a saturated (five coat application) superlaycryl and echoveld waterproofing agent to the underling substrate.

65)Expansion Joints

· Strip and remove the damaged expansion backing joint.

· Supply and fit a new expansion joint cord to the edge of the wall discussed.

· Apply a Pro 2 HP Expansion Joint Sealant to cover the backing cord.

· Apply Baysilone Impregnating Agent LO-N to the top and side of the wall discussed.

66)Wooden framed windows and door.

· The wooden framed windows and door shall be removed by your specialist.

· We shall liaise with the specialist on your behalf as to carrying out the work on a suitable day.

· The wooden framed windows and doors shall be removed and replaced the same day.

· Recesses into the sides of the sliding door opening up to 150mm in height on both sides

· Strip and remove the tiles and screed by mechanical means. Remove all rubble from site. It is agreed that your tiler will supply and fit all your new tiles, adhesive and screed to fall. This is not covered in the costs.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems down to a bare underlying substrate. Remove all rubble from site.


· Should there not be a good bondable substrate, apply cement slurry to provide a smooth, workable surface





Note:

Should you choose not to remove the wooden framed double doors for us to waterproof under it, no guarantee will apply. Although the waterproofing can be tiled onto directly with a keykote, it is recommended, if space allows, first throwing a screed of min 40mm.

It is agreed that this shall be carried out by your specialist. This is not covered in the costs.

It is recommended that the wooden framed double doors are to be seated on a concrete base, of 80mm thickness or more above the deck.

Recesses need to be made into the sides of the wooden framed double doors opening up to height of 150mm on each side

Fulbores and outlets are recommended to be at least 100mm from side walls

Should the outlets be in the side walls, we recommend that 75mm outlets be installed.

67)Waterproofing of aluminum framed windows - Previously built surfaces

· The aluminium framed windows shall be removed by an aluminium specialist.


· The aluminum framed windows shall be removed and replaced the same day.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems down to a bare underlying substrate.

· Remove all rubble from site.

· Apply a cement slurry to provide a smooth, workable surface

· Recesses into the sides of the window opening up to 150mm in height on both sides.

· To fit and supply angle iron to sit behind and under the aluminium frame of the sliding door.



· Counter-flash, where necessary, using a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing membrane.


· To make good the plaster and paint in order to provide an agreeable esthetically approved finish.

68)Sealing between window frame and wall

· Strip and remove all old and damaged silicone between the glass and window frame structure, wipe clean to remove all grease and acid deposits using MEK Acetone Cleaner.

· Remove loose friable materials and make good the arrisses made good.

· Apply an even bead of Prostruct Dymonic NT polyurethene to seal between frame and glass smoothing off to create an even finish.

· Apply an even bead of Prostruct Dymonic NT polyurethene between wall and window frame.

· Joint faces should ideally be clean, dry, sound and free from grease and any other contaminants likely to impair adhesion.

69)Waterproofing around a window

· Strip and remove all old and damaged silicone between the wall and aluminium/wood frame structure, wipe clean to remove all grease and acid deposits using MEK Acetone Cleaner.

· Apply an even bead of PolyUrethene between wall and aluminium/wood frame and smooth off to an even finish.

70)Sealing a hole in a wall.

· Remove previous waterproofing around the hole in the wall.

· Seal the hole with a Bituseal Plastic waterproofing agent.

· Apply a paint that bonds to bitument in order to prime and to receive the finished colour of the wall.

71)Flat deck (Not previously waterproofed concrete surface substrate)

· Prepare surface by means of detergents and hard brooms to obtain a grease and oil free stable substrate.






72)Flat deck (Previously waterproofed concrete decks)

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems down to a bare underlying substrate. Remove all rubble from site.







73)Flat deck (Wooden – Not previously waterproofed)

· Prepare surface by means of hard brooms to obtain clean substrate.

· Conduct a through inspection of the wooden timber, replacing any damaged timber at customer’s consent and for customer’s account.

· Supply and fit a 3mm roll base waterproofing bituminous system to create a slip-sheet barrier, butting roll base together, securing using Flathead clout nails at 150mm intervals

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the roll base waterproofing system allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps.




74)Flat deck (Wooden – Previously waterproofed)

· Strip and remove all old and damaged waterproofing systems down to a bare underlying substraight. Remove all rubble from site.

· Conduct a through inspection of the wooden timber, replacing any damaged timber at customer’s consent and for customer’s account.

· Supply and fit a 3mm roll base waterproofing bituminous system to create a slip-sheet barrier, securing using Flathead clout nails at 150mm intervals.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the roll base waterproofing system allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps.

· Counter-flash, where necessary, using a self-adhesive 300mm wide uni-flash waterproofing system.



75)Waterproofing of balconies (with sliding doors).Newly Built surfaces with no sliding door yet in place.

· Conduct an inspection of the substrate to ensure a smooth surface.






· Seal around sliding door with polyurethane sealant

Note:

It is recommended that the sliding door is be seated on a concrete base, of 80mm thickness or more above the deck.

Recesses need to be made into the sides of the sliding door opening up to height of 150mm on each side

Fulbores and outlets are recommended to be at least 100mm from side walls

Should the outlets be in the side walls, we recommend that 75mm outlets be installed.

76)Waterproofing of balconies (with sliding doors) - Previously built surfaces

· Strip and remove the tiles and screed on the balcony by mechanical means.

· Strip and remove old and damaged waterproofing systems down to a bare underlying substrate.

· Remove aluminum sliding door.

· The sliding door shall be removed by your specialist. We recommend using Alumen.


· The sliding door shall be removed and replaced the same day.

· Recesses into the sides of the sliding door opening up to 150mm in height on both sides.

· Remove all rubble from site.

· Apply a cement slurry to provide a smooth, workable surface.

· To fit and supply aluminium angle to sit behind and under the aluminium frame of the sliding door.






Note:

Although the waterproofing can be tiled onto directly with a keykote, it is recommended, if space allows, first throwing a screed of min 40mm.

It is agreed that this shall be carried out by your specialist.

77)Waterproofing of a concrete deck (Bituthene 3000)

· Measures should be taken to ensure that all surfaces are free from ice, frost or condensation.

Roof slabs must be surface dry, free from sharp protrusions and any hollows filled with high strength mortar. Installation is recommended at a temperature between +4°C and +55°C.

· Ensure that horizontal and vertical faces are smooth, regular, dry and free from nails.

· Horizontal and vertical surfaces shall be primed with one coat of Primer B1 or Primer B2 applied by brush or roller and allowed to dry completely before the application of the Bituthene 3000

· Apply a 2mm cold applied flexible waterproofing membrane, Bituthene® 3000, combining a special high performance cross laminated, HDPE carrier film with a self-adhesive rubber bitumen compound, allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns

· Apply Bituthene 3000 by peeling back the protective silicone release paper and applying the self-adhesive face on to the surface to ensure good initial bond, allowing for 50mm minimum overlaps at side and ends ensuring complete adhesion and continuity between the layers.

· Apply SolarshieldTM, a preformed, self-adhesive, aluminium solar reflective flashing membrane.

AND

· Apply bitumen primer and sand to the Bituthene 3000 as to prepare the surface to receive a cementitious waterproofing system or to receive plaster.

78)Solar shield

· Ensure that the underlying roof waterproofing membrane is clean and surface dry before applying the self-adhesive Solarshield.

· Peel back the protective silicone release paper and carefully offering the adhesive face into position on the prepared surface. Cut and trim carefully around internal and external corners to form an effective protection flashing to the waterproofing membrane beneath.

· Brush Solarshield on to the surface to ensure good initial bond. Adjacent widths should be aligned and overlapped 75mm minimum at side and ends to ensure complete adhesion and continuity between the layers.

79)Seam Service

· Check surface area and seam for obvious damages to the waterproofing system.


· Apply a single coat bituminous waterproofing primer to the tops of the seams.

· Apply a 4mm heat fused torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps, heat sealing all overlaps. (If necessary)


Note:Serving in considered patch work and is not formally guaranteed.

80)Tiling:

· Screed, where necessary, with a cement slurry, the walkways to obtain and even surface.

81)Flowerboxes

· Remove all sand and plants from the flower boxes.

· (NB: Although every care will be taken to remove and replace the existing plants, Ross and Son Roofing and Waterproofing will not be held liable for any damage to the plants.)



· Apply a 4mm heat fused anti-root torch on waterproofing system to the previously primed areas allowing for 75mm overlaps and 150mm upturns, heat sealing all overlaps.

· Refill and replant previously removed plants.

Roofing

82)Roof Replacement (Sheets)

· Strip and remove damaged (rusted and unsalvageable) roof sheets. Remove sheets from site. Arrange for disposal of asbestos products at suitable HAZMAT facility.

· Conduct a thorough inspection of all roof support structures, i.e. Rafters, purlins, etc. replacing any damaged timber at customer’s consent for customer’s account.

· Supply and fit new Galvanised/Chromodeck, 0,5/0,58/0,8mm steel, (IBR/Corrugated) asbestos (Big 6 / Canadian) profile roof sheets, securing each using 75/65/95mm self-drive/topspeed/hook) bolts and self-sealing washers.

· Supply and fit a 230mm x 230mm 0.58mm steel capping to ridge and hips of the roof allowing for the steel and rubber closures below each.

83)Roof Replacement ( Snap / Clip Lock Sheets)

· Strip and remove damaged and unsalvageable roof sheets. Remove sheets from site. Arrange for disposal of asbestos products at suitable HAZMAT facility.


· Supply and fit new Snap lock, 0,53mm steel, roof sheets.

· Supply and fit a 150mm x 100mm 0.58mm steel capping to ridge and hips of the roof allowing for the steel and rubber closures below each.

84)Roof Replacement (Slate tiles)

· Strip and remove the slate tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site.


· Supply and fit new slates, securing each using copper disc rivets and clout nails.

· Supply and fit new 3 ply Maltoid onto the battens ensuring edges are properly sealed, allowing for 75mm overlaps sealed with Bitugrip cold bond adhesive.

· Supply and fit Boston slate cappings to ridge and hips of the roof.

85)Roof Replacement (cement tiles)

· Strip and remove the cement tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site.


· Supply and fit new cement tiles, securing each using clout nails.

optional

· Remove and stack the battens for re-use. Lay SABS approved Durafoil Heavy Industrial that serves as both a dust cover as well as a sisalation sheet.

· Re-place the battens on the sisalation foil.

· Supply and fit new cement tiles, securing each using clout nails.

· To caulk between the ridge and hip tiles using a mixture of bonding liquid, red oxide and mortar mix.

· Supply and fit new cement ridge and hip tiles.

86)Roof Replacement ( clay tiles )

· Strip and remove the clay tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site.


· Supply and fit new clay tiles, securing each using clout nails.

Optional (option 2)

· Remove and stack the battens for re-use. Lay SABS approved Durafoil Heavy Industrial that serves as both a dust cover as well as a sisalation sheet.

· Re-place the battens on the sisalation foil.

· Supply and fit new clay tiles, securing each using clout nails.

· To caulk between the ridge and hip tiles using a mixture of bonding liquid, red oxide and mortar mix.

· Supply and fit new clay ridge and hip tiles.

87)Replacement (Slate tiles)

· Strip and remove the broken / cracked slate tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site.

· Supply and fit new slates, securing each using copper disc rivets and clout nails.

· Supply and fit Boston slate cappings to ridge and hips of the roof.

88)Replacement (Cement tiles)

· Strip and remove the broken \ cracked slate tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site.

· Supply and fit new cement roof tiles, securing each using clout nails.

89)Replacement of lighting sheets

· Strip and remove existing lighting sheets. Remove rubble from site.

· Supply and fit new custom made Polycarbonate/Light industrial fiberglass, Big 6 / IBR / Corrugated profile sheets.

· Secure each using 75/65/95mm self-drive/topspeed/hook bolts and self-sealing washers.

90)Light sheet and frame replacement

· Strip and remove the existing frame and lighting sheets.Remove rubble from site.

· Supply and fit new Gavanised C-channel two (2) supports and weld to existing steel supports.

· Supply and fit new steel/translucent IBR along the length of the C-channel.

· Secure using 95mm self-drive bolts and self-sealing washers.

91)Georgian Wire Glass Panel Replacement

· Ensure area below where we will work is sectioned off, secure and safe.

· Strip and discard existing wire glass panel and rusted circlips.


· Metal, ferrous spec good condition.

· Apply a bead of polyurethane sealant along the inside of the frame.

· Supply and fit 10x620mmx1820mm fiberglass panels (4mm thick) and lay on the bead of polyurethane.

· Supply and fit new circlips to secure the fiberglass panels.

92)Ceiling Replacement Spec

· Remove existing ceilings.


· Supply and fit (to existing battons) new 4mm rhinoboard.

· Supply and fit standard cornile.

· Lap seal joints with wood beading.

· Apply one coat universal undercoat.

· Apply one coat plascon Wall & All or equilavent.

93)Gutter clean spec

· By means of hard brooms and brushes remove all dirt, moss and algae caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Wash out all gutters and rinse down all walls to remove any excess dirt caused by the cleaning of the gutters.

· Inspect and report on downpipes.

· Should downpipes be found to contain blockages that we are unable to unblock you will need to employ a suitable drainage contractor to unblock the downpipes. Eg Rotorooter. This is not covered in the costs.

94)Gutter clean and coat spec.

· By means of a hydro-jet clean and remove all dirt, moss and algae caused by atmospheric pollution to the asbestos gutters.

· By means of hard brooms and brushes remove all dirt, moss and algae caused by atmospheric pollution.

· Wash out all gutters and rinse down all walls to remove any excess dirt caused by the cleaning of the gutters.

· Apply an anti-fungal solution to the previously cleaned roof so as to retard the growth of algae spores.

· Apply a two, hand painted, coat of pure roof acrylic UV-resistant paint

· Inspect and report on downpipes.

· Should downpipes be found to contain blockages that we are unable to unblock you will need to employ a suitable drainage contractor to unblock the downpipes. Eg Rotorooter. This is however not covered in the cost of cleaning the gutters.

95)Downpipe Installation:

· Strip and remove the existing 75mm downpipe.

· Remove the existing 75mm outlet.

· Remove the old downpipe and outlet from site.

· Supply and fit new 110mm PVC downpipe, 110mm outlet, holder bats and shoe.

· Secure using brass screws.

96)New PVC Gutter Installation:

· Strip and remove the old and damaged gutter system.

· Remove the old gutter from site.

· Supply and fit new halfround / D shape PVC gutter, holder, bats and shoes.


97)New Aluminum Gutter Installation:

· Strip and remove the old and damaged gutter system.

· Remove the old gutter from site.

· Supply and fit new seamless aluminum gutter, PVC holder bats and shoes.


98)New Fiberglass Gutter Installation

· Supply and fit a Nutek fascia board.

· Supply and fit a custom-made light industrial fiberglass gutter system, allowing for a wing to extend below the cement roof tiles, to create a larger girth to the gutter system.


· Supply and fit new PVC downpipe, PVC holder bats and shoe.


99)Changing of the direction of a gutter.

· Remove the gutter with the downpipe and stack for re use.

· Refit the holder brackets of the gutter on the fascia as to change the direction of fall of the gutter.

· Refit and make good the downpipe, to supply, fit and extend the downpipe to drain into the gulley.

Waterproofing specs:

Dear JSA Architects

Regarding the waterproofing of the bathrooms at Royal Maitland we suggest the following:

To apply Bituthene 3000 to the bathroom floors on a flat and smooth prepared surface, free from any hollows / voids and any sharp protrusions, previously primed with neoprene primer to ensure a good initial bond, allowing for 50mm minimum overlaps at side and ends ensuring complete adhesion and continuity between the layers. Allow for 150mm upturns. Flash off the edges using Bituseal plastic.

To apply bitumen primer and sand to the previously applied Bituthene 3000 ( sand blinding ) in order to prepare the surface to receive a layer of screed.

The same can be applied to the waterproofing of balconies.

Documents

SPECS - Cape Waterproofing · Web viewStrip and remove the clay tiles to the elevations discussed. Remove tiles from site. Conduct a thorough inspection of all roof support structures,