SoukS, SpiceS

SkyScraperS

an

d A multicultural restaurant scene,

along with a new festival that celebrates global cuisine, makes Dubai a hotspot that

deserves to be more than just a stopover on your next overseas trip,

says resident Samantha Wood

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PhotograPhs Diaan De Beer text Samantha WooD

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A view of the world’s tallest tower, Burj Khalifa, from the

JW Marriott Marquis.

picTureSQue GLiMpSe oF THe paST At first glance, Dubai may appear to be dedicated to decadence, which it is to a degree, but there are also many fascinating historical facets to the city. Soaking up local Emirati culture is a must-do on any visit to the largest city in the United Arab Emirates, which is why I always take visitors to the labyrinthine old quarter of Bastakiya in Bur Dubai. Make the time to take a leisurely stroll and appreciate the rooftop wind towers – clever architectural features that funnel cool air into the buildings – along with the many art galleries, before grabbing a ride on one of the traditional wooden abras on Dubai Creek. Disembark at the spice souk in Deira, where traders line up sacks brimming with colourful spices. Fragrant Iranian saffron is my top shopping-list pick, since it’s so much more affordable here. www.definitelydubai.com

Opposite, clockwise from top left: The historical wind tower district of Bastakiya in Dubai's old town; seafood and fish star on the menus of countless Dubai restaurants; glittering gold in the souk; cruising along Dubai Creek in a traditional abra is a must on a visit to the city; a trader selling dates in the souk; a local Emirati gentleman.

THe SLeek-cHic BurJ duo The city is renowned for two magnificent towers, both called Burj, which means “tower”. The newest, Burj Khalifa, named after the UAE president, is the world’s tallest building. At more than 828 metres high, it’s home to the Armani Hotel, as well as residential and office space. A high-speed lift shoots visitors up to the observation tower on the 124th floor to admire 360-degree views of the old and new cities, Arabian Gulf and Arabian Desert. Sandstorms do occasionally make an appearance, so be sure to go on a clear morning. Also bear in mind that the views are more breathtaking during the day than at night, even though the city is beautifully illuminated. Once back at ground level at Dubai Mall, I make a point of popping out to the Burj Khalifa Lake for another superlative sight, the world’s largest dancing fountains, designed by the Bellagio team from Las Vegas, which shoot jets of water up to 150 metres into the air.

Then I like to take visitors to the Jumeirah Beach shoreline, where the Burj Al Arab (Tower of Arabs) hotel, with its iconic sail silhouette,

rises out of its own man-made island. This distinctive structure is an über-luxurious hotel, so if paying top dollar for a two-storey suite isn’t in your budget, the ideal way to take a peek inside is via a restaurant reservation. Afternoon tea is the most affordable. www.burjkhalifa.ae, www.thedubaimall.com, www.jumeirah.com

dininG To die For Dubai is home to approximately 5 400 restaurants, so how on Earth do you decide where to eat? To make the decision-making easier, I have helped map out Gourmet Trails (www.dubaifoodfestival.com/food-bites), which covers five different categories of dining experiences: ultimate dining, around the world, Arabian inspiration, best-kept secrets and cheap eats. These are my top three picks:1. At Q’bara, fun dining is the new fine dining. This is a glamorous restaurant that embraces Arabian culture with its fusion menu that celebrates the food of the Maghreb, Levant and Middle East. Start with preserved-lemon margaritas and move on to sharing plates of

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This page: There's no shortage of meaty fare on offer. Opposite, clockwise from top:

Dubai by night; chefs show off kebabs at The Big Grill; Al Nassma Camel Milk and

Products Camel Farm; beach canteens at the Dubai Food Festival; meat galore at The Big

Grill at Emirates Golf Club.

“A high-speed lift shoots visitors up to the observation tower on the 124th floor to admire 360-degree views of the old and new cities”

This page, clockwise from top: Crossing Dubai Creek; chefs show off kebabs at The Big Grill; the historical wind tower district of Bastakiya; Burj Khalifa – the

world’s tallest tower; a bird's-eye view of Dubai from the Burj Khalifa; beach canteens at the Dubai Food

Festival; meat galore at The Big Grill at Emirates Golf Club. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Dubai by

night; meaty fare at Prime 68; the fruit-and-vegetable market in Deira; the textile souk in Bur Dubai.

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DUBaI NeeD-to-KNoWDubai International Airport recently overtook London’s Heathrow as the airport with the greatest number of international

passengers in the world. Make sure you’re one of them!

When to Go Luckily the Dubai Food Festival runs in February and March, which is also the best time of year to visit Dubai. Avoid the hot summer period from June to September when temperatures and humidity levels are at their peak.

ViSaS South African citizens must apply for a tourist entry visa before departure. Some airlines, such as Emirates, and a number of travel agents, will process visa applications at the time of booking flights. You can also apply through the

General Directorate of Residency and Foreigners Affairs at www.ednrd.ae.FLiGhtS Emirates operates daily direct return flights from Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban to Dubai International, www.emirates.com.

hoteLS Accommodation in Dubai covers all price points, from small guesthouses and serviced apartments, to boutique hideaways, deluxe city properties such as the JW Marriott Marquis, and five-star beach resorts.

Visit www.definitelydubai.com/where-to-stay for a list of licensed hotels and find good deals at www.booking.com.VaCCinationS anD meDiCation No vaccinations are required for entry into the UAE, but routine immunisation is advisable. Certain medications such as codeine, which might be available over the counter in some countries, are banned in the UAE – check with the

UAE embassy in Pretoria (012 342 7736; uae@mweb.co.za) for an updated list of permitted medications before you leave home. Also take copies of prescriptions for essential medication with you.

lobster kibbeh with an avocado labneh dip and baby poussin musakhan served on buttery flatbread. Open daily from 7 pm, and on Friday and Saturday from 1:30 pm to 4 pm. Wafi Fort Complex, Dubai, www.qbara.ae. 2. Khan Murjan is the Aladdin’s cave of Arabic restaurants in Dubai. Set in a bustling courtyard hidden in the depths of a pyramid-shaped shopping mall, its menu boasts cuisine from all corners of the Arab world. My favourite dish is the wonderfully good Egyptian koshari – a spicy rice-and-lentil dish. Open daily from 10 am to midnight. Wafi Mall, +971 4 327 9795. 3. Across town and just off the beach in the shadow of Burj Al Arab, you’ll find seafood shack Bu’Qtair. It’s a best-kept secret that serves the most exquisite fresh fish shallow-fried in Keralan spices and served with steaming paratha flatbread and coconut fish curry for dipping. Head there at opening time to avoid queuing. Open daily from 6:30 pm. Off Jumeirah Beach Road, near Jumeirah Beach Hotel.

caMeL MiLk and daTeS Don’t even think of leaving Dubai without tasting camel milk (including its own chocolate) and dates. The Majlis café in Dubai Mall – which, with 1 200 retail outlets, holds the Guinness world record as the world’s largest – features a menu dedicated to camel-milk drinks and desserts. Known for its health benefits, camel milk contains half the fat of cow’s milk and more than three times the vitamin C content. The camelccino is my favourite for its rounded and slightly bitter coffee flavour. In the same mall you will also find Café Bateel, which, healthy fare aside, sells date products including a wonderful date-infused balsamic vinegar that makes the perfect homecoming gift. Both cafés are open daily from 10 am to midnight. www.thedubaimall.com

a priMe 68 BruncH Dubai has its very own Wikipedia entry under “brunch”. You might expect it to be ranked with New York in this department, but, surprisingly, Canada gets second mention. Yes, brunch – particularly the all-you-can-eat, Champagne-fuelled variety – is an institution in Dubai, especially on Fridays, the start of the weekend in the Arab world. The choice is prolific but one worth highlighting is the à la carte brunch complete with Laurent Perrier champagne at Prime 68, the boutique steakhouse atop the world’s

tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis, which offers stunning views of the Burj Khalifa and Burj Al Arab. Every Friday from 12:30 pm to 4 pm, www.marriott.com.

FryinG pan adVenTureS If you’d like to uncover all the teeny ethnic eats and unsung heroes hidden away in Dubai’s older neighbourhoods, join Arva Ahmed of Frying Pan Adventures for four- to five-hour walking tours in two pockets of Dubai, each with its own food heritage. Choose from Middle Eastern cuisine in Deira or Indian delights in Meena Bazaar. Tours are in the evenings. Visit www.fryingpanadventures.com for dates.

LiMe & Tonic SecreT SupperS I am going to divulge a little secret. Every now and again “social concierge” company Lime & Tonic, which tailor-makes personalised experiences around town for customers (and also operates in Cape Town), organises secret suppers at undisclosed locations with chef-for-hire Tomas Reger at the stove. An email arrives earlier in the day confirming the meeting point, from where a treasure hunt leads visitors to the venue, which usually turns out to be a hidden gem. At the most recent dinner, the destination was a retro art gallery in Dubai’s warehouse district where guests enjoyed a mouthwatering three-course meal. Visit www.limeandtonic.com/dubai for forthcoming suppers.

duBai Food FeSTiVaL If you’re planning a visit to Dubai (and I hope I have convinced you), then time your trip to coincide with the annual Dubai Food Festival in February and March. Expect pop-up canteens on three beaches along with Taste of Peru, a food festival dedicated to the best of Latin American fare. Taste of Dubai and Dubai Food Carnival see some of Dubai’s hottest restaurants take stalls serving bite-size tasters, while visiting celebrity chefs from all over the world entertain visitors with cooking master-classes, among many other events for food lovers. www.dubaifoodfestival.com Dubai resident Samantha Wood is founder of the impartial restaurant review website www.foodiva.net.See pxx for SA celebrity chef Siba Mtongana’s recipes inspired by her recent visit to Dubai.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: A double-decker suite in the Burj Al Arab; chefs show off their teppanyaki skills at Izakaya – the Japanese restaurant at the JW Marriot Marquis; colourful spices at the spice souk in Deira; Persian carpets at the Khan Murjan souk in Wafi; the camel milk Majlis café in Dubai Mall; Morrocan mint tea sampled on

a Frying Pan Adventures food tour; a schwarma pit stop in the heart of Deira; chocolate-covered dates at the Bateel factory; the fruit-and-vegetable market; there are several top-notch sushi restaurants in the city. A

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