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Slow Food Presidia and Sustainable Development
© P
aola
Vie
si, ©
Alb
erto
Per
oli,
Arch
ivio
Slo
w F
ood,
© P
aolo
And
rea
Mon
tana
ro
Financed by the European Union. The contents of this publication are the sole responsibility of the author and the European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made of the information contained therein.
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The concept of sustainable development made its first official appearance in 1980, in the World Conservation Strategy produced by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. Today, the universally accepted definition of sustainable development comes from the report Our Common Future, published by the World Commission on Environment and Development in 1987: “Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”
However, the issue of sustainability only began to be accepted by the international community following the 1992 United Nations Conference on Environment and Development in Rio de Janeiro. In fact, one outcome of the UN conference, which came to be known as the Earth Summit, was Agenda 21, an action plan for achieving sustainable development in the 21st century.
According to Agenda 21, “Governments…should adopt a national strategy for sustainable development… This strategy should build upon and harmonize the various sectoral economic, social and environmental policies and plans that are operating in the country… Its goals should be to ensure socially responsible economic development while protecting the resource base and the environment for the benefit of future generations. It should be developed through the widest possible participation. It should be based on a thorough assessment of the current situation and initiatives.”
Numerous tools and actions are required to implement the three essential principles of sustainable development, namely:
1 – principle of fairness: ensures the fair allocation of the costs and benefits of every policy and in every sector in time and space.
2 – precautionary principle: ethically systematic, avoids the most serious outcomes with preventative, proactive and shared measures for the defense of the ecosystem.
3 – principle of subsidiarity: guarantees the cooperation of all government structures in favor of social and ecological survival and the defense of human rights and nature (Luciani and Andriola, 2001).
The need to reconcile economic growth and fair distribution of resources in a new model for development began to attract attention in the 1970s, but it is of increasing relevance today. This is thanks to the widespread awareness that the classic conception of development, tied exclusively to economic growth, is the main cause of the incipient collapse of natural systems.
In its widest significance, the concept of sustainability implies the capacity of a development process to support, over time, the reproduction of the global capital composed of economic capital (everything that individuals and businesses have created and are creating), human/social capital (the individuals themselves) and natural capital (the environment).
Slow Food’s activities can be seen within this context. Since the end of the last century, the organization has been developing a series of projects in Europe and the rest of the world, seeking new harmony within the producer-consumer system. Food is taken as the starting point, and most importantly a holistic approach is applied to subjects often dealt with separately at both a scientific and policy level, such as environmental and social issues.
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In particular, Slow Food’s actions embrace and reinforce one of the innovative elements of sustainable development: the search for intergenerational fairness. On the basis of this principle, future generations have the same rights as current generations. The Slow Food approach is also strongly based on intragenerational fairness: Within the same generation, people belonging to different political, economic, social and geographic contexts have the same rights.
The starting point for Slow Food’s actions is food, in its broadest possible sense, meaning not just gastronomy but the result of numerous policies on raw materials, quality, biodiversity, agriculture, farming and processing. The holistic vision that characterizes the Slow Food approach is not limited to the three directions of sustainable development (environmental, social and economic) but, within them, emphasizes more complex cognitive pathways that originate from traditional knowledge and its transmission to future generations.The reference points of the strategy proposed by Slow Food derive from reflections that have emerged within the Slow Food association and from interaction with the external scientific, economic and political world. These reflections are on issues relating to biodiversity protection, the need to promote local and rural development to confront the ideas imposed by globalization, a rethinking of the producer-consumer relationship and the search for a new concept of quality.
Drawing on work in various fields, Slow Food brings to its projects a holistic vision that re-interprets these elements, creating a connection between them with the aim of promoting food that is “good, clean and fair.”
Key Points of the Slow Food Presidia Project• Biodiversity and the protection of the multifunctionality of agro-ecosystemsSlow Food began to work on biodiversity at the end of the 1990s, placing food at the center of its actions and drawing attention to the overly narrow approach of most national and international organizations concerned with biodiversity.
From the beginning, Slow Food has proposed a complex and systemic approach that takes into account all the components of food biodiversity, including agricultural biodiversity (varieties, ecotypes, native breeds and populations selected by farmers over the centuries); food biodiversity, made up of the variety of traditional products; and wild biodiversity, which comes from the gathering of wild populations and the maintenance of natural habitats.
The starting point for the Slow Food approach is inspired by the fact that for several decades, humans have been methodically attacking agro-biodiversity. It has been simplified and standardized, through the constant reduction of cultivated varieties and farmed breeds and the spread of agro-industrial production models based primarily on intensive monocultures. Additionally, the human race often indirectly erodes biodiversity at a global level by modifying ecosystems: digging wells, cultivating virgin land, contributing to soil erosion and impoverishment, draining water reserves, altering the climate and impacting natural habitats and ecological communities.
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In short, humans are systematically eliminating the extraordinary biodiversity that they have spent the last 10,000 years carefully and patiently selecting and creating. The collapse of local crops, in Italy as in the rest of the Europe, brings with it the loss of values, traditions and services provided by ecosystems, which can increasingly be quantified in terms of environmental, social and economic damage.
The activities of the Slow Food Presidia reinforce the link between farmers and their land, raise the profile of typical and traditional products and promote a fair remuneration for producers. The idea is to reconstruct and reinforce the cultural dignity of small-scale food producers, inspiring them to continue their work even in the most marginal areas and revitalizing small local economies. In Europe this translates into safeguarding the traditions and environmental and cultural heritage indispensable to preserving local identities and the pleasure of food.
• Redefining the producer-consumer relationship through narrated qualityTackling the issue of quality in relation to the food sector is complex and requires dealing with some very tricky issues. The complexity is firstly linked to the difficulty in identifying precisely and correctly what is meant by quality. Slow Food has added its voice to the debate around a comprehensive definition of quality, introducing the concept of “narrated quality.” Quality cannot be summed up with labels or indicators, given the complexity of factors that must be taken into account (knowledge of the local area, processing techniques, recipes, sensory and nutritional characteristics). None of these factors is comprehensive enough to be considered on its own. Full communication therefore requires a narrative.
This innovative concept of quality has developed over the span of 20 years of experience in the field, working directly with hundreds of communities of small-scale producers. It unquestionably represents one of the aspects that most distinguishes the association from other organizations working with food and agriculture.
Indeed, quality is often identified solely with chemical and physical analyses or tasting panels, and generally with measurable and definable parameters. This technical approach is valid in a comparative and objective context, but does not take into account everything that lies behind a local product, everything that has developed over centuries of history. In Slow Food’s definition, the quality of a food product is the result of a narrative. It starts from the origin of the product (which could be the place where a species was domesticated or diversified, the place where a variety or a breed adapted or evolved naturally or the place where a cultivation or processing technique was developed), and then considers the characteristics of the environment, local knowledge (within the community), the product’s local reputation, processing techniques, recipes, storage methods, marketing, environmental sustainability and, of course, sensory and nutritional characteristics.
The narrative can thus restore the product’s competitive value, based on differentiation, which is often difficult to attribute to products that would otherwise risk being pushed out of the market (because they come from marginal areas, are produced in small quantities, etc.).
Additionally, through the narrative, a link is created between the producer and the consumer
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that elevates the consumer to the level of co-producer. No longer a passive subject, thanks to the narrative the consumer is inspired to learn more about who produces their food, where this process takes place and problems facing the producers. Consumers thus actively support producers, becoming part of the production process and reinforcing the understanding of the multidimensional nature of the concept of quality.
Slow Food also promotes the reduction of the physical distance between consumers and producers through the search for alterative distribution channels for Presidia products, lessening the increase in prices along the product’s distribution chain and reducing the imbalances in trade relationships. The creation of a short distribution chain, or at least one which has been shortened functionally and where possible also geographically, increases the consumer’s (and sometimes also the producer’s) active role in the food system in terms of economics (prices are lower for purchasers and more profitable for producers), the environment (reduction of energy consumption and pollution linked to transport and refrigeration, especially in the case of a short local chain) and social aspects (direct control of price and quality by consumers, fresher and healthier perishable products, relationship of trust and exchange of information between producers and consumers without intermediaries).
Monitoring Environmental, Economic and Social Sustainability in the Slow Food Presidia The Slow Food approach to the world of production, and in particular to the Slow Food Presidia project, is not simply to promote a “conservative” model of development, preserving the local capital deriving from natural and cultural resources. Rather, it uses a model of re-interpretation, redistribution and reappropriation of the intrinsic and use values of the resources present in the local area, starting from the area’s interactions with the local and global context and dialog between endogenous specificities and external stimuli.
The tables reproduced below are intended to be used to monitor the Slow Food Presidia projects over time, allowing the systematic evaluation of their progress using qualitative parameters.
The tables have been constructed based on how Slow Food identifies sustainability, divided into the three directions of sustainable development:1 – social sustainability: capacity to guarantee access to fundamental rights (safety, health, education) and conditions of well-being (enjoyment, serenity, social relations) in a fair way within the community. 2 – environmental sustainability: capacity to maintain over time the quality and renewability of natural resources and to preserve biodiversity and guarantee the integrity of ecosystems. 3 – economic sustainability: capacity to generate income and work over the long term and to reach eco-efficiency, in other words the rational use of available resources and reduced exploitation of non-renewable resources.
The tables were developed to be applicable to all different Presidia types and are intended to be updated as the projects advance towards their objectives. For example, they could be used during the project’s launch phase, t(0) to get a picture of the initial situation, and as the basis for a feasibility study to evaluate what actions need to be carried out. They can also be used later t(n+1) to monitor the project’s progress.
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Social AspectA Presidium is always the expression of a community, not just individual producers, and represents an effective tool for giving an otherwise isolated and disadvantaged community an opportunity for growth and dialog with similar communities in other parts of the world through training, participation in events and exchanges.
The social objectives are therefore to improve the social role of the producers and strengthen their willingness to organize themselves. The socio-cultural aspects are strongly linked to the capacity of the people who participate in the network and the projects to rediscover their local culture, including involving different local subjects (students, restaurateurs, local organizations and associations) with the aim of “re-appropriating” their own origins and history and communicating them externally. Naturally this can have positive effects on the local area, for example through the revival of historical festivals, architectural renovations and more generally the development of sustainable tourism. Participation in international events, where the community’s product can be tasted, bought, explored and promoted, almost always functions as a strong stimulus for the community’s pride.
Looking at the subcategories of the social aspect highlights Slow Food’s objectives and actions in creating the Presidia. In fact, with the Presidia, Slow Food wants to preserve and promote the historical and cultural identity of a specific place, in connection to a specific product. This means developing relationships, activities and initiatives with and among communities (formed of all the subjects working in the food production and processing sector); promoting, organizing and participating in educational activities through research projects, coordination, training and continuing education, with the aim of a full implementation of the right to study, to health education, to sensory and taste education and to the development of a proper food culture; and proposing and organizing food and taste culture programs aimed at the public and food professionals, encouraging a greater awareness of historical roots and production processes in all sectors.
The social objectives (improving the social role of producers, strengthening their organizational capacity) can be measured by verifying if the Presidium has created an association or another form of organization, if the producers have improved their capacity to interact with public and private institutions, if their level of fame has increased and if their voice has more weight, perhaps thanks to media attention.
The cultural objectives (strengthening the producers’ cultural identity and promoting the production zones) are closely correlated to the social objectives and are linked to the Presidium’s capacity to inspire an awareness of belonging to a specific place and cultural context, the safeguarding and promotion of traditional knowledge and techniques, the production of publications dedicated to the area and the creation of tourism routes and other cultural initiatives, etc.
A particularly delicate theme, linked to cultural identity, is that of innovation versus tradition. While biodiversity is continuously being eroded, it is also true that domestic biodiversity is still developing new varieties. Examples include grapevine crosses, the local varieties of kiwi developed in Italy after transplantation from New Zealand, new peaches, strawberries, and so on. So why not include these varieties among the Presidia? Why do the Presidia concentrate on traditional varieties and breeds? Because modern selection is not the result of a lengthy process of acclimatization, rationalization and
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the attempts of farmers to produce crops that are useful and hardy. Instead, the primary objectives behind these new creations are to satisfy the average taste of consumers and to obtain the highest possible yields. The soil, climate and history of places become subordinate variables: climate can be modified with greenhouses, soil can be artificially enriched, techniques can be imported, and so on.
Even if the agricultural management is not industrial, the spirit that animates new varieties, types, etc. is typically industrial, guaranteeing high yields, low costs and gratification for average tastes. The relationship between origin (place) and product is broken or distorted. The place is seen as merely a support, a vehicle for production.
The Presidia instead focus on revitalizing local and traditional species, varieties and breeds to strengthen the origin-product link, essential to guaranteeing a healthy and sustainable agriculture.
The relationship between tradition and innovation also concerns production techniques. In the project’s vision, to what extent is it possible to modify cultivation techniques, processing tools and the use of chemical and physical processing aids without adulterating the product’s traditional nature? The Presidia are not intended to be purely conservative, but they exclude production shortcuts, unnatural preservation methods and artificial enhancements of shape, color, flavor, etc. They do welcome cultivation, farming and processing techniques and methods that facilitate and simplify the work of the producers (motors on fishing boats, agricultural machinery in the fields, refrigeration during processing, and so on). These innovations must be welcomed by the whole community and experienced as a shared benefit and not as the result of one producer’s greater or lesser financial capacity or larger or smaller markets for certain products. These shared innovations do not interrupt or alter the product-place connection nor do they substantially distort the narrative of quality, and they can encourage new young producers to continue production.
The democratic participation of all the producers in the life of the Presidium is of particular importance to its development. Often what really restores drive and vitality to a local community is trust, self-esteem, organizational capacity and the possibility of interacting with other subjects (producers, institutions, universities, the media), attracting feedback and attention.
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Social Sustainability
No. SUBCATEGORY PARAMETERS
1 Cultural identityWhat is the cultural link with the local area? Does the Presidium preserve traditional knowledge or skills? Does it protect native breeds and traditional plant varieties?
2 Training through exchanges
Have there been training exchanges between the Presidium and other entities? Have the Presidium producers traveled, participated in events, etc.?
3 Formal organization Does an organizational form exist or has it been created? How are people's roles defined?
3.1 Group democracy Do all the members actively participate?
3.2 Group democracy Does the Presidium involve young people? In what way?
3.3 Group democracy What kind of model is used for the distribution of power? (egalitarian, centralized, horizontal, vertical, etc.)
3.4 Group democracy Are there opportunities for participation?
4 Relationship with local institutions Does the Presidium have relationships with local institutions? What kind?
5 Relationship with the Slow Food network
Does the Presidium have a relationship with the local, national and international Slow Food network?
6 Pride and social gratification
Are the producers appreciated within the community and had any personal gratification as a result? Has their social role changed and been strengthened?
7 Knowledge transmission
Are there horizontal (between Presidium producers) and vertical (between Presidium producers and the community) forms of knowledge transmission? How is knowledge transmitted (at events and conferences, every day)? Has the group expanded? Are they networked with other groups?
8 Educational aspects Does the Presidium organize or participate in educational activities?
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Environmental AspectThe environmental aspect lies at the heart of the Presidia project, which was established to safeguard biodiversity and improve sustainable food production. The approach is linked to the principles of environmental vocation and sustainability. It is based on local agricultural knowledge, the application of traditional and modern techniques adapted to different climate and soil conditions and the correct management of natural resources (biodiversity, soil, water). Wherever previous processes or local knowledge have led to the development of organic agriculture (not necessarily in terms of certification, but rather the general use of sustainable agronomical techniques), the Presidium concentrates on strengthening the concepts of organic crop control and the spread of this philosophy. Where conventional agriculture still plays an important role in farm management, the Presidia project aims to help groups move towards greater environmental sustainability, passing from conventional to eco-sustainable agriculture through training and by example.
Issues relating to animal welfare and health, energy saving and environmentally friendly packaging are naturally linked to the environmental aspects. The Slow Food association explains more about these issues through the creation and dissemination of handbooks and, most of all, production protocols. These technical tools are produced in collaboration with the projects’ main actors, agronomists, veterinarians and other experts. They describe the production process, identifying the key steps and the product’s specific characteristics, introducing or reinforcing the elements of environmental, social and economic sustainability previously identified and described. The protocol must be shared by all the producers who belong to the Presidium. They are bound to follow it: not respecting just one of the protocol’s articles means exclusion from the Presidium. It serves as a validation of quality and a reason for pride and recognition for the producers who sign it. Rural populations play a crucial role in showing the way to safeguarding the environment and preserving biodiversity.
Cultivation techniques must preserve the fertility of the soil and hydrologic systems and avoid as much possible the use of synthetic chemical substances. Agricultural systems and processing facilities must safeguard the rural landscape and traditional architecture. Intensive monocultures, intensive animal farming, unsustainable fishing techniques, industrial products and genetically modified organisms (including in livestock diets) are excluded.
A Presidium can be established for a single local product, linked to the memory and identity of a group. It must be a native variety or ecotype, traditionally cultivated in the Production Area, with specific characteristics due to the link with a specific cultivation zone or which have developed thanks to a strong connection to the pedoclimatic characteristics of a particular area. In this way, the biodiversity of that place is also preserved.
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If the Presidium is for a plant, the propagation material (seeds and/or seedlings) must be healthy and preferably self-produced locally by the producers or produced by nurseries known to the producers that can guarantee that the material belongs to the variety or ecotype covered by the Presidium.
Cultivation must be environmentally friendly and prioritize eco-compatible manual and mechanical methods with a low environmental impact. Fertilization must use primarily fertilizers of organic origin and good agronomic practices must be used to maintain and improve soil fertility.
Weeds must be kept under control primarily by using good agronomical techniques (physical and mechanical means). Crop-protecting products must have a low environmental impact and must be used in accordance with the methods, timing and quantities indicated by the regulations regarding organic, biodynamic or integrated agriculture. Priority must be given to crop rotation and cultivation systems that guarantee the sustainable use of water and soil.
Wild plants can only be gathered if they are not in danger of extinction. Additionally, during the post-harvest phase, only physical preservation methods can be used.
Presidia that involve livestock must safeguard native breeds, or at least those breeds adapted to the environment where the Presidia is located. Animal farming must be adapted to the breed’s traditional behavior and its needs as much as possible. Wild and semi-wild farming types, which reduce the time indoors to a minimum, are preferred. Particular attention must be paid to respect for animal welfare (bedding type and characteristics, control of environmental parameters, space available for each animal).
The diet, where possible, should be based on daily pasturing (and the pasture must be carefully protected, keeping the number of animals within allowed limits) and in any case use only natural products. It cannot include urea, corn silage, foods or products made even partly with genetically modified organisms, additives and industrial processing waste. The following can be used to supplement a forage diet: natural meadow hay and flours or flakes made from cereals (corn, barley, wheat, oats, triticale), including the bran and germ, and also fava beans, dried peas, alfalfa flour and any other locally typical forage, cereals or legumes. The farming of veal calves before weaning (3 months) must guarantee the ingestion of colostrum and a diet at least partially based on non-reconstituted milk.
Therapeutic interventions must prioritize the use of plant-based or homeopathic products, while antibiotics and other conventional veterinary medicines must be used only if other effectives remedies do not exist.
In terms of the production of processed foods and their storage, the parameters primarily taken into consideration in the Presidia guidelines involve the respect of traditional methods for the preparation of the product (whether of plant or animal origin), following normal food safety rules.
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Specifically, dairy products must be made using filtered raw milk, ideally from locally farmed native breeds. The storage of the fresh milk must respect legally specified temperatures and timings. Rennet, if used, must be of animal or plant origin. No type of artificial preservative, additive or dye may be used, and milk enzymes can only be used if they are selected from the producer’s own production (natural native strains). Additionally, aging must take place in natural locations and any smoking must follow natural principles and be carried out in typical facilities. Only untreated, non-reused wood can be used, ideally locally produced. All food packaging must be eco-compatible and have a low environmental impact.
For seafood, the species used for fresh consumption or processing must be historically found in the area being fished and traditionally consumed by the local population. Additionally, fishing methods must be sustainable and traditionally used by the local fishers for the specific species. Fishing techniques must be highly selective, reducing to a minimum the possibility of by-catch. The fishing season must follow the reproductive cycles, avoiding periods when fishing could put the survival of the species at risk.
The interval between catching and processing the fish must not be greater than 12 hours, with some processing and storage practices implemented directly on the boat if necessary. The preservation and processing of the catch must take place according to methods historically and traditionally used in the area and integrated with techniques aimed at safeguarding the biological value and sensory quality of the raw material, while guaranteeing the safety and commercial stability of the finished product. The use of preservatives, additives and dyes is not allowed during processing, with the exception of sodium chloride (salt).
Below is a summary of the main guidelines for the Presidia relating to environmental sustainability.
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Environmental Sustainability
CATEGORY NO. SUBCATEGORY PARAMETERS
9 Definition of subjects and Production Area
Who are the producers, how many are there and where are they?
LOCAL AREA
10 Local aspectsWhat does the Presidium do to protect the local ecosystem? (e.g. promoting biodiversity in general, allowing the recovery of pastures and marginal zones, etc.)
11 Water use Yes/No. If yes, how is water managed?
12 Chemical fertilizers Yes/No. If yes, what kind and how much?
13 Organic fertilizers Yes/No. If yes, what kind and how much?
14 Crop protection What products are used?
15 Type of energy used Does the Presidium use renewable energy?
PRODUCT
16 Seed acquisition How are seeds acquired? Are they bought or reproduced?
17 Rotation Yes/No. If yes, with what crops?
18 Intercropping Yes/No. If yes, with what crops?
19 Type of farming and animal welfare
Is the farming sustainable? What attention is paid to animal welfare?
20 Animal diet What is the composition of the feed? Does it contain silage, GMOs, etc.?
21 Processing Yes/No. If yes, is the technique artisanal?
22 Product preservation Yes/No. If yes, is the processing technique artisanal?
BUSINESS
23 Production protocol Are there any specifications? Are they shared? Are they applied? Are they effective?
24 Packing/communication of product
Is there any packaging? Is it eco-sustainable? Are the product's characteristics properly described on the label?
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Economic AspectEconomic aspects are closely correlated to the work carried out by the Slow Food association to increase the visibility of small-scale producers. Economic objectives are linked to the possibility of increasing the quantities produced and sales to improve the access to food and the finances of the communities participating in the project (without denaturing the product’s quality), to the producers’ capacity to increase their remuneration and to an increase in employment, directly or in complementary sectors like tourism.
Economic objectives are the easiest to measure, and it is not by chance that various studies have been carried out on this subject in the past. The economic aspects of the Presidia in Italy, for example, were explored in research carried out by Milan’s Bocconi University (M. Antonioli Corigliano and G. Viganò, I Presìdi Slow Food: da iniziativa culturale ad attività imprenditoriale, 2002, Il Sole24Ore). The study looked at 54 Italian Presidia in different sectors and highlighted the project’s considerable economic impact, showing changes in the quantity, quality and retail price of the products. A similar study was carried out in 2006 (Baggi, Slow Food Presidia: a survey on their economic, social and environmental impact, 2007, thesis for the Master in Food Culture: Communicating Quality Products at the University of Gastonomic Sciences, 2005-2006 academic year) with a new questionnaire completed by 31 Presidia (18 in Italy, 6 from the rest of Europe, 3 from Latin America and 2 in Asia and Africa).
The price of Presidia products is a very delicate issue. The research cited above has shown sometimes significant increases. Slow Food rejects the idea of encouraging niche products, accessible only to a wealthy elite. The Presidia project was established to rebalance situations with clear production difficulties, to return fairness to production processes sent into crisis by the modern production and distribution system, not to create symbolic totems. The price must therefore be fair for both the producer and the consumer, and cannot be an excuse used to justify the expulsion from the market of less-efficient but more sustainable techniques that result in higher quality.
The monitoring tables for Slow Food Presidia have been developed with the aim of recording individual aspects (social, environmental, economic) but also to reveal the integration between the different aspects under consideration, with reference to:
• efficiency of production and consumption, meaning the reduction of environmental costs and the medium-term optimization of correlated economic opportunities and advantages (integration of the economic and environmental aspects), the possibility of access to resources and environmental quality of all members of the community (integration of social and environmental aspects).
• quality of life of individuals and communities, meaning the interweaving between environmental quality and the quality of constructed spaces, economic conditions, well-being and social cohesion (integration of the social, economic and environmental aspects).
• local competitiveness, meaning the innovative capacity that invests in natural and social capital and values and develops local resources (integration of the social, economic and environmental aspects).
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Economic Sustainability
NO. SUBCATEGORY PARAMETERS
25 Short distribution chainDo the Presidium producers sell directly? If yes, how and where? Do they participate in Slow Food Earth Markets? Are there many intermediaries between the producers and consumers?
29 Sales and marketing Is the market for the products local, national or international?
26 Sales price What is the sales price? Has it gone up? Is it profitable for the producers?
27 Fair distribution of incomeAre profits fairly distributed and do they actually reach the hands of individual producers? (NB only in cases where there is an association)
28 Production quantity
Has there been an increase in production since the establishment of the Presidium? Indicate the initial and current quantities. If there has not been an increase, is it considered a restriction?
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Case Studies: Ten European Presidia
To examine the strengths and weaknesses of the proposed monitoring tables, ten case studies were identified as significant within the European context. The aim, however, is to extend the use of the tables to all the projects relating to the Presidia.
Austria – Wiesenwienerwald Chequer Tree
Bulgaria – Smilyan Beans
Germany – Limpurg Cattle
Hungary – Mangalica Sausage
Italy (Abruzzo) – Santo Stefano di Sessanio Lentil
Italy (Lombardy) – Heritage Bitto
Italy (Sicily) – Salina Caper
Netherlands – Aged Artisanal Gouda
Romania – Bucegi Mountains Branza de Burduf
Sweden – Jämtland Cellar Matured Goat Cheese
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Austria - Wiesenwienerwald Chequer TreeThe highest hill in the Vienna Woods is called Schöpfl and it marks the border between two different envi-ronments: towards Vienna it is thickly wooded, while on the other side of the Schöpfl lies a more open and gentle landscape, with meadows, farmland and isolated old fruit trees (apple, pear and chequer). That is why it also has the name Wiesenwienerwald (Viennese Forest Meadowland). The wild chequer tree is found throughout Europe, but only here there is the tradition of eating its fruit, (fresh or dried) and transforming it into distillates and other products. The trees (at least 300 have been counted in the area) are very old (reaching an age of 200 years) and tall (up to 15 or 20 meters). Harvesting (carried out between mid-September and October) is a complex and hazardous operation. Pickers have to climb up long ladders with a belt and cloth bag. At the top they tie themselves onto the tree so they won’t fall and begin picking: the branch with fruits and leaves has to be removed, and great care must be taken when breaking it off in order not to damage the next year’s bud. The fruit are small oval berries (slightly smaller than a cherry), with a dark red color. Inside are three or four small brown seeds with an intense bitter flavor. After picking, the fruits are kept in a cool dry place for about a week until they are uniformly ripe. The fruit and branches are then tipped onto a table and the whole family begins to patiently separate the fruit from the twigs. This communal activity is called oröwen in local dialect. Producers have recently begun to dry the fruit and offer it as an aperitif or digestif nibble. Other products are also achieving some success, particularly the filled chocolate. Furthermore, fresh chequer berries are used by top local chefs in a range of cold, hot, sweet or savory dishes. The most important transformed product is the distillate however. Once leaves and twigs have been removed, the berries are put into tanks with added water and yeast. The mass is mixed with a traditional implement (a wooden stick and sort of iron blade which was once used to break up the potatoes given to the pigs) until the fruit has all split open. The distillation phase can then begin. The product is balanced and mellow, with a pleasant marzipan note.Production Area: Wiesenwienerwald, Lower Austria Region
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und t
heir h
ips an
d a cl
oth
bag.
Whe
n the
y rea
ch th
e top
, they
tie th
emse
lves t
o the
tree
for
secu
rity an
d star
t pick
ing th
e fru
it. Th
e lea
fy tw
igs be
aring
the f
ruit
must
be ca
reful
ly br
oken
off, t
aking
grea
t car
e not
to da
mage
next
year
’s bu
ds. W
hen t
he P
resid
ium w
as fo
unde
d, ve
ry few
prod
ucer
s we
re pi
cking
the c
hequ
ers a
nd th
e tra
dition
al sc
hnap
ps pr
oduc
tion
metho
ds ha
d bee
n alm
ost c
omple
tely f
orgo
tten.
Youn
ger g
ener
a-tio
ns di
dn’t e
ven k
now
that th
is typ
e of c
hequ
er tr
ee ha
d edib
le fru
it an
d man
y tre
es w
ere c
ut do
wn to
mak
e it e
asier
to us
e agr
icultu
ral
mach
inery.
The P
resid
ium (w
hich u
nites
some
of th
e pro
duce
rs fro
m the
El
sbee
rreich
asso
ciatio
n) be
gan w
orkin
g to r
evive
and p
romo
te tra
dition
al an
d inn
ovati
ve ch
eque
r pro
ducts
. Add
itiona
lly, a
com-
munic
ation
camp
aign w
as la
unch
ed to
raise
awar
enes
s amo
ng
the pu
blic a
bout
the im
porta
nce o
f pre
servi
ng ch
eque
r tre
es. T
he
Pres
idium
focu
sed i
nitial
ly on
prote
cting
the l
ands
cape
and t
he
trees
.
The n
umbe
r of tr
ees b
eing c
ut do
wn ha
s fall
en to
zero
an
d man
y peo
ple ha
ve ag
ain st
arted
pick
ing an
d pro
-ce
ssing
cheq
uers.
The
cheq
uer h
arve
st is
once
again
an
oppo
rtunit
y for
fami
lies t
o mee
t; the
harve
sting
and
sortin
g of th
e fru
its is
done
by ha
nd an
d can
invo
lve al
l fam
ily m
embe
rs.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded,
only
a cou
ple of
fami
lies w
ere
harve
sting
cheq
uers
and u
sing t
hem
to ma
ke sc
hnap
ps, w
hich t
hey
sold
direc
tly or
to re
staur
ants
in the
area
.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
ed m
eetin
gs an
d sem
inars
durin
g whic
h pr
oduc
tion q
uality
and m
ethod
s wer
e disc
usse
d. Th
e pro
duce
rs pa
rticipa
ted in
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts or
ganiz
ed by
Sl
ow F
ood l
ike th
e Salo
ne de
l Gus
to an
d Ter
ra M
adre
Aus
tria.
The p
rodu
cers
have
acqu
ired a
grea
ter fa
milia
rity w
ith
the na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t, buil
ding u
p a
netw
ork o
f con
tacts
and l
earn
ing th
e bes
t way
to pr
es-
ent th
eir pr
oduc
t.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded,
only
a cou
ple of
fami
lies w
ere
harve
sting
cheq
uers
and u
sing t
hem
to ma
ke sc
hnap
ps, w
hich t
hey
sold
direc
tly or
to re
staur
ants
in the
area
.
The w
ild ch
eque
r ass
ociat
ion (E
lsbee
rreich
) was
foun
ded i
n 200
7 wi
th the
aim
of br
inging
toge
ther p
eople
from
diffe
rent
parts
of th
e re
gion—
cook
s, foo
d exp
erts,
rese
arch
ers,
etc.
The a
ssoc
iation
, initia
lly fo
unde
d by t
wo pr
oduc
-er
s, no
w ha
s aro
und 4
0 pro
duce
rs ou
t of a
total
of
arou
nd 85
mem
bers,
inclu
ding f
ood p
rofes
siona
ls an
d re
sear
cher
s.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Be
fore t
he P
resid
ium w
as fo
unde
d, on
ly a c
ouple
of fa
milie
s wer
e ha
rvesti
ng ch
eque
rs an
d usin
g the
m to
make
schn
apps
, whic
h the
y so
ld dir
ectly
or to
resta
uran
ts in
the ar
ea.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers t
ook p
art in
vario
us m
eetin
gs w
ith th
e loc
al co
ordin
ators
and S
low F
ood s
taff.
Arou
nd 15
fami
lies a
re ac
tively
invo
lved i
n the
Pre
-sid
ium, a
nd a
certa
in nu
mber
of as
socia
tion m
embe
rs pa
rticipa
te in
runn
ing th
e pro
ject a
nd or
ganiz
ing
semi
nars.
3.2
Gro
up de
mocra
cyDo
es th
e Pre
-sid
ium in
volve
youn
g pe
ople?
In w
hat w
ay?
No, y
oung
peop
le we
ren’t
inter
ested
in th
is pr
oduc
t. Th
e Pre
sidium
orga
nized
semi
nars
in sc
hools
and t
rips t
o the
ch
eque
r woo
ds w
ith ta
sting
s. Yo
ung p
eople
are a
gain
involv
ed in
har
vesti
ng, s
ortin
g an
d pro
cess
ing th
e che
quer
s.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded,
only
a cou
ple of
fami
lies w
ere
harve
sting
cheq
uers
and u
sing t
hem
to ma
ke sc
hnap
ps, w
hich t
hey
sold
direc
tly or
to re
staur
ants
in the
area
.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
ed m
eetin
gs w
hich r
esult
ed in
the f
ound
ing
of an
asso
ciatio
n tha
t brin
gs to
gethe
r pro
duce
rs, ex
perts
, coo
ks,
etc.
The a
ssoc
iation
is ru
n by a
comm
ittee o
f nine
mem
bers
and a
chair
man,
electe
d by t
he as
socia
tion m
embe
rs.
The m
embe
rs inc
lude i
ndivi
duals
and f
amilie
s fro
m the
re
gion w
ho ow
n tre
es an
d pro
duce
rs wh
o pro
cess
the
fruit a
s well
as ex
perts
and r
estau
rateu
rs.
17
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
NoTh
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s too
k par
t in va
rious
mee
tings
with
the
local
coor
dinato
rs an
d Slow
Foo
d staf
f. Th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s mee
t reg
ularly
to de
cide w
hat
actio
ns to
take
in re
lation
to th
e pro
ducti
on an
d pro
mo-
tion o
f the p
rodu
ct. A
numb
er of
volun
teers
also o
ffer
their h
elp du
ring t
he ha
rvest
seas
on.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
Befor
e the
estab
lishm
ent o
f the P
resid
ium, th
e pro
duce
rs did
not
have
conta
ct wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns.
The p
rodu
cers
orga
nized
vario
us ac
tivitie
s to p
romo
te the
diffe
r-en
t che
quer
prod
ucts
and t
he lo
cal a
rea.
The P
resid
ium is
in to
uch w
ith re
giona
l ass
ociat
ions,
touris
m bo
ards
and r
ural
deve
lopme
nt or
ganiz
ation
s. It
is als
o in c
ontac
t with
the A
ustria
n Mini
stry o
f Agr
icul-
ture,
the U
niver
sity o
f Natu
ral R
esou
rces a
nd Li
fe Sc
i-en
ces i
n Vien
na an
d the
Univ
ersit
y of K
loster
neub
urg.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
The p
rodu
cers
were
not in
touc
h with
Slow
Foo
d and
ther
e was
no
conv
ivium
in th
e are
a. Th
e Pre
sidium
beca
me in
volve
d in t
he ac
tivitie
s of th
e Slow
Foo
d Vi
enna
Con
vivium
. It co
llabo
rated
with
the n
ation
al Ar
k com
mis-
sion,
the S
low F
ood F
ound
ation
and S
low F
ood I
ntern
ation
al.
The P
resid
ium co
llabo
rates
with
the V
ienna
conv
ivium
. Th
e Pre
sidium
belon
gs to
the n
ation
al an
d inte
rnati
onal
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork a
nd Te
rra M
adre
Aus
tria.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
ratifi
ca-
tion a
s a re
sult?
Has
the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Cheq
uer p
rodu
cts ha
d bee
n alm
ost c
omple
tely f
orgo
tten,
and
ancie
nt tre
es w
ere e
ven b
eing c
hopp
ed do
wn.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y eve
nts (f
airs,
confe
renc
es, m
ar-
kets,
etc.)
. The
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l pre
ss de
dicate
d muc
h att
entio
n to t
hem
and S
low F
ood p
ublis
hed m
any a
rticles
, whic
h en
cour
aged
mor
e med
ia re
ports
.
The r
ole of
the p
rodu
cers
withi
n the
comm
unity
was
str
ength
ened
. The
Pre
sidium
is of
inter
est to
unive
rsi-
ties a
nd lo
cal in
stitut
ions a
nd ha
s bec
ome p
art o
f re
giona
l tour
ism iti
nera
ries.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers)
and
vertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
The t
radit
ional
know
ledge
conn
ected
to th
e che
quer
tree
was
at
risk o
f disa
ppea
ring.
The p
rodu
cers
colla
bora
ted on
draw
ing up
the p
rodu
ction
pr
otoco
l and
defin
ing th
e pro
duct’
s dist
inguis
hing c
hara
cteris
tics.
Know
ledge
was
shar
ed at
mee
tings
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers.
Thro
ugh a
rticles
, pre
ss re
ports
, eve
nts an
d con
feren
ces,
Slow
Fo
od br
ough
t kno
wled
ge ab
out th
e pro
duct
and i
ts qu
ality
to a
wide
r pub
lic.
Know
ledge
relat
ing to
the l
ocal
area
and t
he pr
oduc
t is
shar
ed am
ong p
rodu
cers
and b
etwee
n pro
duce
rs an
d the
inter
natio
nal, n
ation
al an
d loc
al co
mmun
ity
(the S
low F
ood c
onviv
ium, to
urist
s, stu
dents
, coo
ks,
rese
arch
ers).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
-tic
ipate
in ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, the
re w
ere n
o edu
catio
nal
activ
ities.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
ed se
vera
l sem
inars,
set u
p a hi
king t
rail
throu
gh th
e che
quer
woo
ds, p
ublis
hed a
child
ren’s
book
and
prod
uced
stud
ies on
the w
ild ch
eque
r tre
e.
The p
rodu
cers
have
beco
me a
mean
s of tr
ansm
ission
of
know
ledge
and e
nviro
nmen
tal ed
ucati
on to
youn
g pe
ople.
18
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
2 pro
duce
rsLo
cal c
oord
inator
s org
anize
d var
ious m
eetin
gs w
ith th
e pro
duc-
ers t
o exp
lain t
he pr
oject.
40
prod
ucer
s in t
he re
gion.
Thes
e are
fami
lies f
rom
the
Wies
enwi
ener
wald
area
who
have
been
living
here
for
gene
ratio
ns an
d own
the l
and w
here
the t
rees
grow
.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
o-div
ersit
y in g
ener
al,
allow
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
ar-
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
The c
hequ
er tr
ees w
ere d
isapp
earin
g, cu
t dow
n to m
ake s
pace
for
mech
anize
d agr
icultu
re.
The p
rotec
tion o
f the e
cosy
stem
is thi
s Pre
sidium
’s ra
ison d
’être
. Th
e pro
duce
rs ra
ised a
ware
ness
amon
g the
loca
l pop
ulatio
n ab
out th
e imp
ortan
ce of
prote
cting
the c
hequ
er tr
ees,
orga
nizing
trip
s and
envir
onme
ntal e
duca
tion a
ctivit
ies fo
r chil
dren
. Add
ition-
ally,
the E
lsbee
rreich
asso
ciatio
n star
ted gr
owing
new
cheq
uer
trees
and i
s ten
ding t
he nu
rsery.
The n
umbe
r of tr
ees b
eing c
ut do
wn ha
s fall
en to
ze
ro an
d man
y peo
ple ha
ve ag
ain st
arted
pick
ing an
d pr
oces
sing c
hequ
ers.
An ed
ucati
onal
activ
ity ha
s bee
n se
t up i
n the
Pre
sidium
area
so th
at pe
ople
can l
earn
mo
re ab
out th
e che
quer
woo
ds. N
ew ch
eque
r tre
es ar
e als
o bein
g plan
ted.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
NoTh
e Elsb
eerre
ich as
socia
tion c
reate
d a nu
rsery
wher
e it c
an pl
ant
new
trees
. Irr
igatio
n is n
ot pla
nned
, exc
ept fo
r the
new
planti
ngs.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
NoNo
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
Loca
l coo
rdina
tors o
rgan
ized v
ariou
s mee
tings
with
the p
rodu
c-er
s to e
xplai
n the
proje
ct.
Once
a ye
ar, th
e pro
duce
rs fer
tilize
the l
and w
ith lo
cally
bo
ught
fertili
zer.
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
No N
o
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
The f
ruit w
as pi
cked
by ha
nd.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
s the
conti
nuati
on of
man
ual h
arve
sting
. Th
e fru
it is p
icked
by ha
nd.
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
New
trees
had n
ot be
en pl
anted
for y
ears.
Th
e che
quer
is a
wild
tree.
Howe
ver, t
he E
lsbee
rreich
asso
ciatio
n ha
s cre
ated a
nurse
ry an
d is t
rying
to pl
ant n
ew tr
ees.
The P
resid
ium is
wor
king w
ith th
e Elsb
eerre
ich as
-so
ciatio
n to m
anag
e the
nurse
ry. It
is als
o coll
abor
ating
wi
th the
Univ
ersit
y of N
atura
l Res
ource
s and
Life
Sci-
ence
s in V
ienna
and t
he U
niver
sity o
f Klos
terne
ubur
g on
rese
arch
on th
e che
quer
tree
. Ro
tation
Yes/N
o. If y
es, w
ith
what
crops
?Int
ercro
pping
Yes/N
o. If y
es, w
ith
what
crops
?Ty
pe of
farm
ing an
d an
imal
welfa
reIs
the fa
rming
susta
in-ab
le? W
hat a
ttenti
on
is pa
id to
anim
al we
lfare
?
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
The o
nly tr
aditio
nal p
rodu
ct ma
de fr
om ch
eque
rs wa
s sch
napp
s. Th
e Pre
sidium
expe
rimen
ted w
ith va
rious
artis
anal
prod
ucts
made
from
cheq
uers.
The
main
focu
s of th
e pro
ject is
the
prote
ction
of th
e lan
dsca
pe. P
rodu
cts w
ill be
used
as a
vehic
le to
pres
erve
the t
rees
.
The P
resid
ium is
conti
nuing
with
the p
rodu
ction
of
tradit
ional
prod
ucts
- sc
hnap
ps an
d drie
d che
quer
s - a
nd ex
perim
entin
g with
new
prod
ucts
like j
ams a
nd
choc
olate
bars.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
19
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
NoAr
tisan
al tec
hniqu
es ar
e use
d to m
ake t
he tr
aditio
nal s
chna
pps.
The P
resid
ium ex
perim
ented
with
new
prod
ucts,
whil
e alw
ays
using
artis
anal
metho
ds.
The c
hequ
ers a
re pr
oces
s to i
s pro
cess
ed.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
Ther
e was
no pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol.
A nu
mber
of m
eetin
gs w
ere o
rgan
ized w
ith th
e pro
duce
rs to
draw
up
the p
rodu
ction
rules
. Ye
s, the
re is
a sh
ared
proto
col.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-su
stain-
able?
Are
the p
rod-
uct’s
char
acter
istics
pr
oper
ly de
scrib
ed on
the
labe
l?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, on
ly ho
me-b
ottled
schn
apps
wa
s pro
duce
d.
Cu
rrentl
y the
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s sell
schn
apps
, drie
d ch
eque
rs, ja
ms an
d cho
colat
e bar
s. Th
e sch
napp
s and
jam
s are
sold
in gla
ss w
hile t
he ch
ocola
te ba
rs an
d oth
er ch
eque
r pro
ducts
are p
acka
ged i
n pap
er.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
20
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
Dire
ctly f
rom
the fa
rms.
The P
resid
ium pa
rticipa
ted in
vario
us ev
ents,
prom
oting
the
cheq
uer p
rodu
cts an
d the
loca
l are
a. Th
e pro
duce
rs se
ll loc
ally t
o res
taura
nts an
d dur
ing
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts. T
he P
rodu
ctio
n Ar
ea is
bette
r kno
wn an
d is p
art o
f tour
ism iti
nera
ries,
so m
ore p
eople
now
buy d
irectl
y fro
m the
farm
s.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na-
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l?
Loca
lTh
e Pre
sidium
partic
ipated
in va
rious
even
ts, pr
omoti
ng th
e ch
eque
r pro
ducts
and t
he lo
cal a
rea.
The p
rodu
cers
sell l
ocall
y to r
estau
rants
and d
uring
na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal e
vents
. The
Pro
duct
ion
Area
is be
tter k
nown
and i
s par
t of to
urism
itine
rarie
s, so
mor
e peo
ple no
w bu
y dire
ctly f
rom
the fa
rms.
Sa
les pr
iceW
hat is
the s
ales
price
? Has
it go
ne
up? I
s it p
rofita
ble fo
r the
prod
ucer
s?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, the
cheq
uers
were
only
used
to m
ake s
chna
pps,
which
was
sold
for 12
0-15
0 eur
os a
liter.
The s
chna
pps w
as ex
pens
ive be
caus
e the
prod
uctio
n pro
cess
wa
s ver
y lab
oriou
s. Th
e fru
it is h
arve
sted m
anua
lly, a
nd it
takes
on
e hou
r to p
ick ar
ound
3.5 k
ilos o
f che
quer
s. Th
ese m
ust b
e so
rted,
and t
here
is a
high p
erce
ntage
of w
aste.
It tak
es 25
kilos
of
cheq
uers
to ma
ke a
liter o
f sch
napp
s.
The c
hequ
ers u
sed t
o mak
e sch
napp
s are
sold
at 8 e
u-ro
s a ki
lo. T
he co
st pe
r liter
of th
e spir
it has
risen
and i
s no
w be
twee
n 190
and 3
00 eu
ros.
Fres
h che
quer
s cos
t 14
-16 e
uros
a kil
o, dr
ied ch
eque
rs co
st 56
euro
s a ki
lo,
cheq
uer ja
m co
sts 35
euro
s a ki
lo, ch
eque
r and
pear
or
apple
jams
cost
30 eu
ros a
kilo,
a lite
r of li
queu
r cos
ts 10
0 eur
os an
d a ch
ocola
te ba
r cos
ts 4.9
0 eur
os.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)
An as
socia
tion w
as fo
unde
d and
the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers j
oined
it.
The a
ssoc
iation
prom
otes t
he pr
oduc
ts bu
t the p
rodu
c-er
s still
sell i
ndivi
duall
y.
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pr
oduc
tion s
ince t
he
estab
lishm
ent o
f the
Pres
idium
? Ind
icate
the in
itial a
nd cu
rrent
quan
tities
. If th
ere h
as
not b
een a
n inc
reas
e, is
it con
sider
ed a
restr
iction
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded,
cheq
uers
were
only
used
to
make
schn
apps
. Aro
und 8
00 lit
ers o
f sch
napp
s was
prod
uced
an
nuall
y.
In 20
11, th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s pick
ed 12
,000 k
ilos
of wi
ld ch
eque
r fru
it, wh
ich w
as us
ed to
mak
e 50 k
ilos
of dr
ied ch
eque
rs, 40
0 lite
rs of
schn
apps
, 800
kilos
of
froze
n che
quer
s, 40
kilos
of ja
m, 50
liter
s of li
queu
r and
40
0 cho
colat
e bar
s.
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
21
Bulgaria - Smilyan BeansThe upper Arda valley of the Rhodope mountains, close to the border with Greece, is a picturesque patchwork of meadows, pasture, cultivated land, coniferous and deciduous woods.It is an idyllic place, where nature is still pristine and the Christian and Muslim communities have lived peacefully together for centuries.The local soil and climate, marked by temperatures which are never excessively hot in summer, and a significant difference between day and night temperatures, provide excellent conditions for growing beans, which have been produced by this small mountain community for at least 250 years. Each family cultivates small plots of land, which fit perfectly into the landscape. They all practice intercropping with crops such as corn and potatoes, enabling no chemical products to be used and ensuring there are no ad-verse effects for the soil. Very small amounts are produced, which are usually intended for family consumption, and yields are never greater than 200 kg per producer.There are two types of Smilyan bean. The first, smaller, type is brown with black streaks and is used in soups or Trahna, a traditional stew of beans and corn from this area. The second type is a larger white or purple bean with streaks, and is excellent in salads or fried with a mixture of water, flour and eggs. Every year the Festival of Smilyan beans is held at the end of November, an event promoted by the mayor of the village and organized with the support of the Slow Food Smilyan Rhodopi convivium. This is an opportunity for the whole community to celebrate their beans, accompanied by performances, dancing and competitions, including one for the best producer of the year.Production Area: Municipality of Smilyan and the upper Arda valley, Province of Smolyan, South-Central Bul-garia
22
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ul-tur
al lin
k with
the
local
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
The c
limate
of th
e Upp
er A
rda V
alley
mak
es it
ideal
for cu
ltivat-
ing be
ans,
with
cool
tempe
ratur
es ev
en in
the s
umme
r and
larg
e tem
pera
ture s
wing
s betw
een d
ay an
d nigh
t. The
small
mou
ntain
comm
unity
here
has b
een g
rowi
ng be
ans f
or at
leas
t 250
year
s. Ea
ch fa
mily
had a
small
plot
of lan
d, tha
t blen
ds pe
rfectl
y into
the
valle
y lan
dsca
pe, w
here
the l
egum
es ar
e inte
rcrop
ped w
ith ot
her
vege
tables
, like
corn
and p
otatoe
s. Th
is me
thod m
eant
there
wa
s no n
eed t
o use
chem
ical fe
rtilize
rs an
d the
soil f
ertili
ty wa
s ma
intain
ed. T
he sm
all ha
rvest
was o
ften c
onsu
med w
ithin
the
family
, and
neve
r exc
eede
d 200
kilos
per p
rodu
cer. T
he co
mmun
ity
grew
two t
ypes
of be
an: D
rebe
n (sim
ilar t
o bor
lotti)
and F
asuli
tsa
(simi
lar to
butte
r bea
ns).
Smily
an be
ans w
ere p
rized
not o
nly in
the
comm
unity
, whe
re th
ey re
pres
ented
a sta
ple of
the l
ocal
diet,
but a
lso th
roug
hout
the re
gion.
Unfor
tunate
ly, fa
ke S
milya
n bea
ns
would
often
arriv
e on t
he m
arke
t, and
the s
mall-s
cale
prod
ucer
s in
the U
pper
Ard
a Vall
ey w
ere u
nable
to di
ffere
ntiate
their
authe
ntic
bean
s and
rece
ive a
fair p
rice f
or th
em.
One o
f Slow
Foo
d’s ag
rono
mists
visit
ed th
e pro
duce
rs to
defin
e the
varie
ties c
ultiva
ted an
d the
ir spe
cific q
ualiti
es, th
e soil
and
clima
te ch
arac
terist
ics an
d the
cultiv
ation
tech
nique
s. A
grou
p of
prod
ucer
s dec
ided t
o wor
k tog
ether
to sa
fegua
rd th
e auth
entic
Sm
ilyan
bean
s and
to pr
omote
them
on th
e mar
ket. T
he P
re-
sidium
orga
nized
an an
nual
Smily
an be
an fe
stiva
l to re
infor
ce th
e lin
k betw
een t
he co
mmun
ity an
d the
prod
uct. A
bran
d was
cre-
ated,
which
will
soon
be re
gister
ed, to
help
the pr
oduc
ers p
rotec
t the
mselv
es ag
ainst
the im
itatio
ns flo
oding
the n
ation
al ma
rket.
Base
d on t
he su
gges
tions
of th
e agr
onom
ist an
d the
Pre
sidium
coor
dinato
r (a r
esea
rcher
at th
e Sofi
a Un
iversi
ty Bo
tanic
Gard
ens),
the p
rodu
cers
are d
raw-
ing up
a pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wh
ich w
ill co
nsoli
date
the
conn
ectio
n betw
een t
he be
ans,
their c
ultur
al va
lue
in the
comm
unity
and t
heir r
ole in
safeg
uard
ing th
e en
viron
ment.
The
prom
otion
activ
ities f
or th
e pro
duct
and i
ts br
and h
ave h
ighlig
hted t
he be
ans’
uniqu
e cha
r-ac
terist
ics an
d gen
erate
d gre
ater p
ublic
inter
est. E
very
year,
the P
resid
ium or
ganiz
es a
Smily
an be
an fe
stiva
l to
furthe
r rein
force
the l
ink be
twee
n the
comm
unity
, the
local
area
and t
his un
ique p
rodu
ct.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
had n
ever
partic
i-pa
ted in
loca
l, nati
onal
or in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts.
In Oc
tober
2010
, a de
legati
on of
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s join
ed
thous
ands
of ot
her p
rodu
cers
from
five c
ontin
ents
to pa
rticipa
te in
the in
terna
tiona
l Slow
Foo
d eve
nts S
alone
del G
usto
and T
erra
Ma
dre i
n Tur
in an
d the
small
er Te
rra M
adre
mee
ting i
n Tre
ntino
. In
June
2011
, a de
legati
on of
thre
e pro
duce
rs an
d the
proje
ct’s
local
coor
dinato
r visi
ted th
e pro
duce
rs fro
m the
Gial
èt Be
an
Pres
idium
in F
eltre
(Ven
eto).
Later
, in O
ctobe
r 201
1, a d
elega
tion
of Sl
ow F
ood m
embe
rs fro
m Ve
neto
and p
rodu
cers
from
the
Gialè
t Bea
n Pre
sidium
visit
ed S
milya
n for
the a
nnua
l Smi
lyan
bean
s fes
tival.
The p
rodu
cers
have
acqu
ired a
grea
ter fa
milia
rity
with
the na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t, buil
ding u
p a n
etwor
k of c
ontac
ts an
d lea
rning
the b
est w
ay to
mar
-ke
t their
prod
uct. T
he P
resid
ium ha
s goo
d rela
tions
hips
with
the S
low F
ood n
etwor
k in B
ulgar
ia, th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers i
n the
Terra
Mad
re B
alkan
s netw
ork a
nd th
e Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
k in V
eneto
and T
renti
no.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
A co
oper
ative
of ar
ound
400 p
rodu
cers
alrea
dy un
ited a
ll the
small
-sc
ale fa
rmer
s in t
he U
pper
Ard
a Vall
ey (n
ot on
ly be
an gr
ower
s).
Most
cultiv
ated v
ery s
mall p
lots,
and p
rodu
ction
was
gene
rally
de
stine
d for
fami
ly co
nsum
ption
.
The P
resid
ium de
cided
to w
ork w
ith a
small
er nu
cleus
of pr
oduc
-er
s, at
least
for th
e first
stag
e of d
rawi
ng up
the p
rodu
ction
pr
otoco
l, spe
cifica
lly th
ose w
ho di
d not
prod
uce o
nly fo
r the
ir own
co
nsum
ption
and w
ere i
ntere
sted i
n imp
rovin
g pro
ducti
on an
d ac
cess
ing a
wide
r mar
ket.
The p
rodu
cers
are fi
naliz
ing th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l. Th
e nex
t step
will
be to
crea
te an
asso
ciatio
n with
a co
llecti
ve br
and.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?No
The i
nvolv
ed pr
oduc
ers p
artic
ipated
in va
rious
mee
tings
held
with
the lo
cal c
oord
inator
s and
Slow
Foo
d staf
f to w
ork t
owar
ds
achie
ving t
he pr
oject’
s obje
ctive
s.
Yes,
the pr
oduc
ers m
eet s
ever
al tim
es a
year
to m
ake
decis
ions a
bout
prom
otion
and i
ssue
s rela
ting t
o pr
oduc
tion.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
re-
sidium
invo
lve yo
ung
peop
le? In
wha
t way
?
NoSl
ow F
ood o
rgan
ized s
emina
rs an
d mee
tings
with
the p
rodu
cers.
No
t, but
it is o
ne of
the P
resid
ium’s
mediu
m-ter
m ob
jectiv
es.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
The c
oope
rativ
e of 4
00 fa
rmer
s org
anize
d loa
ns an
d man
aged
the
agric
ultur
al ma
chine
ry, bu
t ther
e was
no sp
ecific
grou
p mak
ing
decis
ions a
bout
the pr
oduc
tion o
f Smi
lyan b
eans
.
Sinc
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, the
prod
ucer
s hav
e met
seve
ral ti
mes,
to wo
rk tog
ether
and t
ake c
ollec
tive d
ecisi
ons.
The p
rodu
cers
meet
infor
mally
seve
ral ti
mes a
year,
to
discu
ss pr
oblem
s rela
ting t
o pro
ducti
on an
d mar
ketin
g an
d to i
denti
fy po
ssibl
e solu
tions
. Dec
ision
s are
gene
r-all
y tak
en co
llecti
vely.
23
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
NoSi
nce t
he P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed,
the pr
oduc
ers h
ave m
et se
vera
l time
s, to
work
togeth
er an
d tak
e coll
ectiv
e dec
ision
s. Th
e pro
duce
rs me
et inf
orma
lly se
vera
l time
s a ye
ar, to
dis
cuss
prob
lems r
elatin
g to p
rodu
ction
and m
arke
ting
and t
o ide
ntify
poss
ible s
olutio
ns.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
The c
oope
rativ
e of 4
00 pr
oduc
ers,
out o
f whic
h the
Pre
sidium
was
fou
nded
, had
a go
od re
lation
ship
with
the lo
cal a
uthor
ities (
the
munic
ipality
and d
istric
t of S
milya
n).
The m
unici
pality
of S
milya
n tak
es pa
rt in
the be
an fe
stiva
l eve
ry ye
ar. T
he na
me of
Smi
lyan i
s pro
moted
toge
ther w
ith th
e pro
duct.
Th
e Pre
sidium
is m
aintai
ning a
nd st
reng
thenin
g its
good
relat
ionsh
ips w
ith th
e loc
al au
thoriti
es. It
s pro
mo-
tion a
ctivit
ies br
ing vi
sibilit
y not
only
to the
prod
uct, b
ut als
o to t
he S
milya
n reg
ion.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
NoTh
e Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded o
n the
initia
tive o
f the S
low F
ood
Rodo
pi Sm
ilyan
Con
vivium
(who
se le
ader
is al
so th
e pre
siden
t of
the as
socia
tion o
f Slow
Foo
d con
vivia
in Bu
lgaria
and a
n int
erna
tiona
l cou
ncilo
r for
Slow
Foo
d). T
he pr
oduc
ers’
partic
ipa-
tion i
n var
ious l
ocal,
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts or
ganiz
ed
by S
low F
ood h
as al
lowed
them
to be
come
very
familia
r with
the
asso
ciatio
n.
Yes,
the P
resid
ium ha
s an e
xcell
ent r
elatio
nship
with
bo
th the
Slow
Foo
d Rod
opi S
milya
n Con
vivium
and t
he
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork i
n Bulg
aria.
The
Pre
sidium
activ
ely
partic
ipates
in th
e Ter
ra M
adre
Balk
ans n
etwor
k and
is
also o
n goo
d ter
ms w
ith S
low F
ood c
onviv
ia in
other
co
untrie
s, es
pecia
lly Ita
ly.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
ratifi
ca-
tion a
s a re
sult?
Has
the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Smily
an be
ans w
ere a
cohe
sive f
actor
for t
he w
hole
Uppe
r Ard
a Va
lley c
ommu
nity.
Almo
st all
the i
nhab
itants
cultiv
ated a
t leas
t a
few pl
ants,
affirm
ing th
eir at
tachm
ent to
the c
ommu
nity.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y inte
rnati
onal
even
ts, th
e na-
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal p
ress
dedic
ated m
uch a
ttenti
on to
them
an
d artic
les, b
roch
ures
and i
ntervi
ews w
ere p
ublis
hed.
Slow
Foo
d inc
reas
ed th
e ind
ividu
al gr
atific
ation
of pr
o-du
cers,
who
are n
ow aw
are o
f the i
mpor
tance
of th
eir
work
and t
heir p
rotec
tion o
f the l
ocal
envir
onme
nt.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers)
and
vertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Give
n the
very
close
relat
ionsh
ip be
twee
n the
prod
ucer
s and
the
comm
unity
, kno
wled
ge w
as sh
ared
in a
very
trans
pare
nt an
d dem
o-cra
tic w
ay, th
e res
ult of
prac
tices
cons
olida
ted ov
er th
e yea
rs.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y inte
rnati
onal
even
ts, th
e na-
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal p
ress
dedic
ated m
uch a
ttenti
on to
them
an
d artic
les, b
roch
ures
and i
ntervi
ews w
ere p
ublis
hed.
Seve
ral
times
a ye
ar th
e pro
duce
rs co
llabo
rate
with
Slow
Foo
d Rod
opi
Smily
an C
onviv
ium to
expla
in the
ir wor
k to c
hildr
en, w
ho al
so
partic
ipate
in tas
te ed
ucati
on ac
tivitie
s.
Know
ledge
relat
ing to
the l
ocal
area
and t
he pr
oduc
t is
shar
ed am
ong p
rodu
cers
and b
etwee
n pro
duce
rs an
d the
inter
natio
nal a
nd lo
cal c
ommu
nity (
the S
low F
ood
conv
ivium
, etc.
).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
-tic
ipate
in ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities?
NoAt
leas
t twice
a ye
ar th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s tak
e par
t in ed
uca-
tion a
ctivit
ies fo
r chil
dren
that
the R
odop
i Smi
lyan C
onviv
ium
orga
nizes
with
loca
l sch
ools.
Ever
y yea
r, sev
eral
hund
red c
hildr
en ha
ve th
e cha
nce
to lea
rn ab
out th
e pro
duct
and t
he lo
cal a
rea.
24
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
Almo
st ev
ery f
amily
cultiv
ated s
mall p
lots,
which
fit pe
rfectl
y into
the
land
scap
e of th
e Upp
er A
rda V
alley
. Sl
ow F
ood i
denti
fied a
nucle
us of
moti
vated
prod
ucer
s who
wer
e int
eres
ted in
prom
oting
the p
rodu
ct to
draw
up th
e pro
tocol
and
launc
h the
Pre
sidium
.
The P
resid
ium cu
rrentl
y inv
olves
12 pr
oduc
ers,
distrib
-ute
d thr
ough
out th
e upp
er va
lley o
f the A
rda R
iver.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
o-div
ersit
y in g
ener
al,
allow
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
ar-
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
Grow
ing th
e bea
ns on
small
or tin
y plot
s help
ed to
prote
ct the
mo
untai
n lan
dsca
pe. T
he cu
ltivati
on sy
stem
used
for t
he be
ans,
base
d on i
ntercr
oppin
g with
loca
l cor
n and
potat
o var
ieties
, pre
-se
rved t
he so
il and
safeg
uard
ed lo
cal v
ariet
ies.
The p
rojec
t did
not n
eed t
o cha
nge t
he pr
oduc
tion s
ystem
to
impr
ove i
ts su
staina
bility
. It w
as m
ore a
ques
tion o
f pre
serv-
ing th
e wor
k the
prod
ucer
s wer
e alre
ady d
oing,
and o
rgan
izing
pr
omoti
on at
a loc
al, na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal le
vel.
The P
resid
ium pl
ays a
n ess
entia
l role
in ma
intain
-ing
the r
ural
cultu
re of
the U
pper
Ard
a Vall
ey. T
he
cultiv
ation
of be
ans i
n sma
ll or t
iny pl
ots he
lps pr
otect
the m
ounta
in lan
dsca
pe. T
he cu
ltivati
on sy
stem
used
for
the b
eans
(inter
cropp
ed w
ith lo
cal c
orn a
nd po
tato
varie
ties)
helps
to pr
eser
ve th
e soil
and b
iodive
rsity.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
No irr
igatio
n was
used
. Th
e cult
ivatio
n pro
tocol
is cu
rrentl
y bein
g dra
wn up
.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
chem
ical fe
rtilize
rs we
re us
ed.
The c
ultiva
tion p
rotoc
ol is
curre
ntly b
eing d
rawn
up.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
.
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?Or
ganic
fertil
izers
were
used
. Th
e cult
ivatio
n pro
tocol
is cu
rrentl
y bein
g dra
wn up
.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
.
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
trea
tmen
ts we
re us
ed.
The c
ultiva
tion p
rotoc
ol is
curre
ntly b
eing d
rawn
up.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
.
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
No ty
pe of
ener
gy w
as ne
eded
(neit
her f
ossil
fuel-
base
d nor
rene
w-ab
le).
The c
ultiva
tion p
rotoc
ol is
curre
ntly b
eing d
rawn
up.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
.
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
The s
electi
on an
d rep
rodu
ction
of th
e see
ds w
as ca
rried
out b
y ea
ch fa
mily.
The
two t
ypes
of be
ans w
ere g
rown
toge
ther a
nd so
ld in
pack
ages
divid
ed ac
cord
ing to
their
size
and c
ulina
ry us
e. Th
e lar
ger b
eans
(Fas
ulitsa
) are
eaten
in sa
lads w
hile t
he sm
aller
ones
(D
rebe
n) ar
e coo
ked i
n stew
s and
soup
s.
A joi
nt ini
tiativ
e is u
nder
way t
o imp
rove
how
seed
s are
selec
ted
and r
epro
duce
d.
The P
resid
ium’s
objec
tive i
s to u
se so
me la
nd fo
r the
se
lectio
n and
repr
oduc
tion o
f see
ds fo
r all t
he pr
oduc
-er
s. Ad
dition
ally,
they a
re w
orkin
g on p
repa
ring s
pecifi
c pa
ckag
ing fo
r eac
h typ
e.
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Yes,
but n
ot by
all th
e pro
duce
rs.
The c
ultiva
tion p
rotoc
ol is
curre
ntly b
eing d
rawn
up.
The P
resid
ium’s
objec
tive i
s to e
xtend
rotat
ion to
all th
e pr
oduc
ers.
25
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Yes,
the cu
ltivati
on sy
stem
involv
ed th
e inte
rcrop
ping o
f bea
ns w
ith
local
varie
ties o
f cor
n and
potat
oes.
Th
e cult
ivatio
n pro
tocol
is cu
rrentl
y bein
g dra
wn up
.
The p
rotoc
ol is
almos
t finis
hed a
nd sp
ecifie
s tha
t this
prac
tice r
emain
s the
same
. Inter
cropp
ing is
char
acter
-ist
ic of
the be
ans’
cultiv
ation
and h
elps p
rese
rve th
e so
il and
biod
iversi
ty.
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
The p
rodu
ct did
not u
nder
go an
y tre
atmen
t befo
re be
ing pa
ckag
ed
and s
old.
The P
resid
ium is
expe
rimen
ting w
ith te
chniq
ues f
or pr
eser
ving
the pr
oduc
t with
out a
lterin
g its
natur
al qu
alitie
s.
Curre
ntly t
he pr
oduc
ers a
re us
ing re
friger
ation
, but
this
is no
t suffi
cient.
Res
earch
will
conti
nue t
o defi
ne th
e co
rrect
store
age t
empe
ratur
e and
perio
ds ne
cess
ary t
o av
oid th
e dev
elopm
ent o
f wee
vils i
n the
bean
s.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
NoInt
erna
tiona
l agr
onom
ists v
isited
the P
resid
ium an
d are
helpi
ng
to dr
aw up
a pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol.
The p
rotoc
ol is
being
finali
zed.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-su
stain-
able?
Are
the p
rod-
uct’s
char
acter
istics
pr
oper
ly de
scrib
ed on
the
labe
l?
No, th
e pro
duct
was s
old in
plas
tic su
perm
arke
t bag
s of v
aryin
g we
ight. T
he pr
oduc
t had
no la
bel.
In 20
11 th
e Pre
sidium
acqu
ired s
pecia
l pap
er ba
gs w
ith a
clear
wi
ndow
to al
low th
e pro
duce
to be
view
ed. T
he P
resid
ium al
so
create
d a la
bel a
nd a
logo f
or th
e pro
duct.
The p
acka
ging i
s mor
e sus
taina
ble an
d the
infor
ma-
tion o
n the
labe
l is cl
ear, t
houg
h still
need
s to b
e mor
e co
mpre
hens
ive.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
26
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
The p
rodu
cers
sold
mostl
y to t
ouris
ts vis
iting t
he ar
ea.
The p
rodu
cers
partic
ipated
in S
low F
ood e
vents
in B
ulgar
ia an
d ab
road
. Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d an a
ware
ness
-raisi
ng ca
mpaig
n wi
th its
mem
bers
in Bu
lgaria
, enc
oura
ging t
hem
to he
lp pr
omote
an
d sell
the b
eans
.
The p
rodu
cers
sell d
irectl
y fro
m the
ir far
ms an
d dur
ing
Slow
Foo
d eve
nts in
Bulg
aria
and a
broa
d. So
me of
the
Pres
idium
prod
ucer
s reg
ularly
partic
ipate
in the
Ear
th Ma
rket in
Tche
rni V
it.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na-
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l?
Loca
lTh
e pro
duce
rs so
ld dir
ectly
from
their
farm
s and
durin
g Slow
Fo
od ev
ents
in Bu
lgaria
and a
broa
d.
The m
ain m
arke
t is st
ill loc
al, bu
t the p
rodu
cers
have
or
ganiz
ed th
emse
lves b
etter
- inc
luding
suita
ble
pack
aging
and l
abels
- an
d are
grad
ually
incre
asing
the
quan
tities
sold
outsi
de th
e loc
al ar
ea. P
artic
ipatio
n in
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts is
incre
asing
the
prod
uct’s
pres
tige,
includ
ing at
a loc
al lev
el.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up
? Is i
t pro
fitable
for
the pr
oduc
ers?
4-6 l
ev (2
-3 eu
ros)
per k
ilo.
Follo
wing
a se
ries o
f mee
tings
, the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers a
gree
d on
a mi
nimum
sellin
g pric
e for
their
prod
uct.
Dreb
en be
ans a
re so
ld for
no le
ss th
an 3
euro
s a ki
lo an
d Fas
ulitsa
for n
o les
s tha
n 4 eu
ros a
kilo.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)Pr
oduc
tion q
uanti
tyHa
s the
re be
en
an in
creas
e in
prod
uctio
n sinc
e the
es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pr
esidi
um? I
ndica
te the
initia
l and
curre
nt qu
antiti
es. If
ther
e has
no
t bee
n an i
ncre
ase,
is it c
onsid
ered
a re
strict
ion?
The 1
2 sele
cted p
rodu
cers
prod
uced
arou
nd 3
tons o
f bea
ns a
year.
No
sign
ifican
t incre
ase,
but s
o far
the P
resid
ium ha
s be
en le
ss co
ncer
ned w
ith in
creas
ing qu
antiti
es th
an
ensu
ring t
hat th
e bea
ns ca
n be s
old at
a fai
r pric
e and
ar
e pro
tected
from
imita
tions
.
27
Germany - Limpurg CattleThe Limpurg cow breed represents the oldest still existing cow breed in Württemberg.Its name derives from the county of Limpurg , south of the city of Schwäbisch Hall. It came into existence from breed crossings between the local red breed, which was present after the 30 Years War and the breed Allgäuer (named after the region between south-west Bavaria and south of Baden-Württemberg).Particularly suited for the wild breeding, even on steep pastures, it is perfect for the mixed landscape which is characterized by hills, mountains, the Swabian-Franconian forest and the low river valleys of the rivers Rems and Lein.In the past, the great proliferation of markets in the region favoured its development: the animals, in fact, served both to transport and to provide meat and milk.Already in the 18th century in the area of Hohenlohe, on the northern part of Baden Württemberg fattening of oaxen had become the most important business, guaranteeing farmers a degree of prosperity. According to written records of the 19th century, the Limpurg oax was known as “particularly tender, juicy and tasty” and was preferably sold outside of the regional borders (France and Switzerland) where a higher price for top quality meat was willingly paid.The color of the animals’ coat can vary from yellow to red-yellow. Stamina, long living, double attitude (milk and meat) well-developed shoulders and good musculature strong brisket, regular limbs with hard hooves, fine bone structure and good properties characterize the strong and sturdy breed as a nurse cow.The Presidium focused besides safeguarding the breed in particular on the breeding of the Limpurg oxen, which become extremely large and heavy and give a high yield when slaughtered. The meat has especially fine fibers, is low in fat, juicy, tender and well marbled, particularly that of cattle raised on pasture and during the winter, using only hay pasture, without the addition of soybean or silage.Production Area: Swabian-Franconian Forest around Schwäbisch Hall, rural district of Hohenlohe, Baden-Württemberg
28
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ultur
al lin
k wi
th the
loca
l are
a?
Does
the P
resid
ium
pres
erve
trad
itiona
l kn
owled
ge or
skills
? Do
es it
prote
ct na
tive
bree
ds an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
The L
impu
rg is
the o
ldest
survi
ving c
attle
bree
d fro
m W
ürtte
mber
g. Its
name
come
s fro
m the
ancie
nt pr
incipa
lity of
Limp
urg,
south
of
the to
wn of
Sch
wäbis
ch H
all, a
nd th
e bre
ed or
igina
ted fr
om a
cross
be
twee
n the
trad
itiona
l loca
l red c
attle,
still
pres
ent a
fter t
he T
hirty
Year
s’ W
ar, an
d a br
eed f
rom
Allgä
u, the
regio
n stra
ddlin
g sou
thwes
t Ba
varia
and s
outhe
ast B
aden
-Wür
ttemb
erg.
Partic
ularly
suite
d to
pastu
ring,
even
on ve
ry ste
ep sl
opes
, the b
reed
is pe
rfect
for th
is mi
xed l
ands
cape
, cha
racte
rized
by a
moun
taino
us zo
ne ar
ound
the
town o
f Lim
purg
, the S
wabia
n-Fr
anco
nian f
ores
t and
the l
ush r
iver
valle
ys of
the R
ems a
nd th
e Lein
. In th
e pas
t, this
area
was
a bu
sy
tradin
g hub
, and
the c
attle
were
used
for t
rans
port,
as w
ell as
mea
t an
d milk
. As f
ar ba
ck as
the 1
8th ce
ntury,
fatte
ning c
attle
was t
he
most
impo
rtant
comm
ercia
l acti
vity i
n the
Hoh
enloh
e are
a, in
the no
rth
of Ba
den-
Wür
ttemb
urg,
guar
antee
ing a
certa
in lev
el of
afflue
nce t
o far
mers.
Acc
ordin
g to d
ocum
ents
from
the 19
th ce
ntury,
Limp
urg o
xen
had a
“plea
santl
y ten
der m
eat, s
uccu
lent a
nd fla
vorfu
l,” an
d the
beef
was b
eing s
old be
yond
regio
nal b
orde
rs, as
far a
field
as S
witze
rland
an
d Fra
nce,
“whe
re a
highe
r pric
e was
paid
for th
e sup
erior
quali
ty.”
In 18
35, a
n Agr
icultu
ral U
nion w
as fo
rmed
betw
een t
he ci
ties o
f Aale
n an
d Sc
hwäb
isch G
münd
to pr
omote
the f
armi
ng of
the L
impu
rg
cattle
. At th
e end
of th
e 19th
centu
ry, th
ere w
ere a
roun
d 56,0
00
anim
als, b
ut wi
th the
intro
ducti
on of
agric
ultur
al me
chan
izatio
n, the
sit
uatio
n cha
nged
rapid
ly, an
d by t
he en
d of th
e Sec
ond W
orld
War
nu
mber
s had
falle
n dra
matic
ally.
In 19
63, ju
st on
e Lim
purg
bull a
nd
17 co
ws w
ere r
ecor
ded i
n the
gene
alogic
al re
gister
, and
by th
e 198
0s
the br
eed w
as al
most
extin
ct. T
he an
cient
tradit
ion of
eatin
g oxe
n is
refle
cted i
n the
man
y inn
s in t
he ar
ea ca
lled “
zum
ocss
en” o
r “zu
m ro
ten oc
hsen
”: “th
e red
oxen
.”
The P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed i
n 200
8, in
colla
bora
tion w
ith th
e as
socia
tion o
f Lim
purg
cattle
bree
ders
(bas
ed in
Sch
wäbis
ch H
all),
with
the ai
m of
reviv
ing th
e sus
taina
ble an
d tra
dition
al far
ming
of th
e br
eed.
The P
resid
ium fa
rmer
s beg
an w
orkin
g with
loca
l butc
hers
and t
rade
rs.
The P
resid
ium pr
otects
and p
romo
tes th
e olde
st ca
ttle
bree
d fro
m W
ürtte
mber
g. Th
ere a
re cu
rrentl
y ove
r 65
0 anim
als re
cord
ed in
the g
enea
logica
l regis
ter, o
f wh
ich 35
0 are
cows
. Lim
purg
beef
is we
ll-kno
wn an
d hig
hly pr
ized b
y loc
al re
staur
ants
for its
mar
morie
rung
(m
arbli
ng),
which
gua
rante
es th
e per
fect fu
sion o
f lea
n mus
cle an
d fat,
not fo
und i
n mea
t from
indu
strial
ly far
med a
nimals
. The
mea
t is us
ed in
trad
itiona
l regio
nal
recip
es (s
auer
brate
n, gu
ancia
le, et
c.) an
d in m
ore
mode
rn in
terpr
etatio
ns, s
uch a
s an e
xcell
ent c
arpa
ccio.
Th
e use
of P
resid
ium m
eat is
spec
ified o
n men
us.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pre
sidium
an
d othe
r enti
ties?
Ha
ve th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers t
rave
led,
partic
ipated
in ev
ents,
etc
.?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e pro
duce
rs did
not p
artic
ipate
in loc
al, na
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers p
artic
ipated
in na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal
even
ts or
ganiz
ed by
Slow
Foo
d (Sa
lone d
el Gu
sto, T
erra
Mad
re,
Chee
se, S
tuttga
rt Me
sse e
tc.).
Than
ks to
exch
ange
s with
othe
r Pre
sidia
prod
ucer
s, the
Limp
urg f
arme
rs ha
ve ac
quire
d a gr
eater
fami
liarity
wi
th the
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l mar
ket, b
uildin
g up a
ne
twor
k of c
ontac
ts an
d lea
rning
the b
est w
ay to
mar
ket
their p
rodu
ct.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
ation
al for
m ex
ist or
has i
t be
en cr
eated
? How
ar
e peo
ple’s
roles
de
fined
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
as a
small
asso
ciatio
n of
Limpu
rg ca
ttle fa
rmer
s. Re
gular
mee
tings
wer
e org
anize
d with
the p
rodu
cers
to dis
cuss
the
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol.
Add
itiona
lly, a
shar
ed lo
go w
as cr
eated
for
marke
ting t
he m
eat.
The a
ssoc
iation
of fa
rmer
s has
been
stre
ngthe
ned a
nd
there
is a
solid
netw
ork o
f sup
porte
rs, in
cludin
g loc
al bu
tcher
s and
resta
urate
urs.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Be
fore t
he P
resid
ium st
arted
, ther
e was
a sm
all as
socia
tion o
f Lim
purg
cattle
farm
ers.
Regu
lar m
eetin
gs w
ere o
rgan
ized b
etwee
n the
prod
ucer
s. Th
ere i
s goo
d coll
abor
ation
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers a
nd
the ot
her P
resid
ium m
embe
rs, w
ho al
l help
each
othe
r.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
ople?
In
what
way?
Youn
g peo
ple w
ere n
ot int
eres
ted in
farm
ing Li
mpur
g catt
le.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers p
artic
ipated
in ac
tivitie
s org
anize
by th
e loc
al Sl
ow F
ood c
onviv
ium an
d wer
e able
to cr
eate
a netw
ork w
ith
local
butch
ers,
chefs
and r
estau
rateu
rs.
The i
nvolv
emen
t of y
oung
farm
ers i
s one
of th
e Pre
si-diu
m’s f
uture
objec
tives
. How
ever,
the P
resid
ium is
in
conta
ct wi
th yo
ung r
estau
rateu
rs an
d che
fs.
29
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
tion
of po
wer?
(ega
litaria
n, ce
ntrali
zed,
horiz
ontal
, ve
rtical,
etc.)
In 20
08, b
efore
the P
resid
ium st
arted
, ther
e was
a sm
all as
socia
tion
of Lim
purg
cattle
farm
ers.
Sinc
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, a n
umbe
r of m
eetin
gs ha
ve
been
orga
nized
to fa
cilita
te co
llabo
ratio
n betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers.
Th
e pro
duce
rs me
et se
vera
l time
s a ye
ar, to
disc
uss
prob
lems r
elatin
g to p
rodu
ction
and t
o org
anize
prom
o-tio
n tog
ether.
Dec
ision
s are
gene
rally
take
n coll
ectiv
ely.
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtunit
ies
for pa
rticipa
tion?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
ere v
ery f
ew op
portu
nities
for
partic
ipatio
n. Si
nce t
he P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed,
vario
us m
eetin
gs, ta
sting
s and
din
ners
have
been
orga
nized
, with
the p
artic
ipatio
n of th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
es re
gular
mee
tings
for t
he
asso
ciatio
n’s fa
rmer
s.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
with
loc
al ins
titutio
ns? W
hat
kind?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e pro
duce
rs ha
d no c
ontac
t with
loca
l ins
titutio
ns.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers c
reate
d a lo
go fo
r mar
ketin
g the
mea
t in
colla
bora
tion w
ith so
me lo
cal in
stitut
ions.
Th
e Pre
sidium
can c
ount
on th
e sup
port
of va
rious
loca
l an
d nati
onal
institu
tions
, inclu
ding t
he lo
cal z
ootec
hnica
l de
partm
ent, t
ouris
m bo
ards
and o
ther a
ssoc
iation
s in
the se
ctor
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e pro
duce
rs we
re in
conta
ct wi
th the
loc
al co
nvivi
um.
The p
rodu
cers
partic
ipated
in va
rious
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
atio-
nal e
vents
orga
nized
by S
low F
ood.
The P
resid
ium is
in co
ntact
with
the as
socia
tion a
t a
local
(conv
ivium
), na
tiona
l (Slow
Foo
d Ger
many
) and
int
erna
tiona
l leve
l.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the co
mmun
ity an
d ha
d any
perso
nal
grati
ficati
on as
a re
sult?
Has
their
socia
l ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
The L
impu
rg ca
ttle br
eed w
as on
ly kn
own a
t a lo
cal le
vel.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y eve
nts (f
airs,
confe
renc
es,
marke
ts, et
c.). T
he na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal p
ress
dedic
ated m
uch
atten
tion t
o the
m an
d Slow
Foo
d pub
lishe
d man
y artic
les, w
hich
enco
urag
ed m
ore m
edia
repo
rts.
The p
rodu
cers’
socia
l role
withi
n the
comm
unity
has
been
reinf
orce
d. Th
ey ha
ve ob
taine
d rec
ognit
ion at
a re
giona
l and
natio
nal le
vel, a
nd in
terna
tiona
lly th
roug
h the
prom
otion
and c
ommu
nicati
on of
the P
resid
ium.
Know
ledge
tran
smiss
ionAr
e the
re ho
rizon
tal
(betw
een P
resid
ium
prod
ucer
s) an
d ve
rtical
(betw
een
Pres
idium
prod
ucer
s an
d the
comm
unity
) for
ms of
know
ledge
tra
nsmi
ssion
? How
is
know
ledge
tran
smit-
ted (a
t eve
nts an
d co
nfere
nces
, eve
ry da
y)? H
as th
e gro
up
expa
nded
? Are
they
ne
twor
ked w
ith ot
her
grou
ps?
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium or
-ga
nize o
r par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivitie
s?
No
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
30
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
u-ce
rs, ho
w ma
ny ar
e the
re an
d whe
re ar
e the
y?
10 fa
rmer
sTh
anks
to th
e esta
blish
ment
of the
Pre
sidium
, it w
as po
ssibl
e to i
n-vo
lve m
ore p
eople
who
wer
e inte
reste
d in t
he Li
mpur
g catt
le br
eed.
12
farm
ers,
some
loca
l butc
hers
and a
coup
le of
resta
urate
urs i
n the
area
who
serve
Limp
urg b
eef o
n the
ir men
us.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
si-diu
m do
to pr
otect
the
local
ecos
ystem
? (e.g
. pr
omoti
ng bi
odive
rsity
in ge
nera
l, allo
wing
the
reco
very
of pa
sture
s an
d mar
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, fe
w ac
tions
wer
e bein
g tak
en to
prote
ct the
envir
onme
nt.
Meeti
ngs a
nd ex
chan
ges w
ere o
rgan
ized a
nd th
e Pre
sidium
farm
ers
bega
n a di
alog w
ith lo
cal c
hefs.
Th
e Pre
sidium
prom
otes l
ocal
biodiv
ersit
y, the
cattle
br
eed,
pastu
res a
nd tr
aditio
nal re
giona
l recip
es.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
ener
gy?
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds ac
qui-
red?
Are
they
boug
ht or
repr
oduc
ed?
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stai-
nable
? Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
Yes,
grea
t atte
ntion
has a
lway
s bee
n paid
to an
imal
welfa
re. F
rom
arou
nd th
e end
of A
pril o
r beg
inning
of M
ay, th
e Lim
purg
cattle
(vea
l ca
lves,
cows
and b
ulls)
are p
astur
ed ou
tdoor
s. Th
ey sp
end t
he w
inter
ind
oors,
but h
ave a
cces
s to p
lenty
of sp
ace.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col s
pecifi
ed th
e con
tinua
tion o
f this
atten
tion t
o an
imal
welfa
re.
The a
nimals
are p
astur
ed fo
r the
who
le su
mmer
and
kept
indoo
rs on
ly for
the w
inter.
In th
e catt
leshe
ds, th
e an
imals
can m
ove f
reely
and h
ave a
mple
spac
e. Th
e flo
or is
cove
red w
ith st
raw
to pr
otect
the ca
ttle fr
om th
e co
ld.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
-sit
ion of
the f
eed?
Do
es it
conta
in sil
age,
GMOs
, etc.
?
The v
eal c
alves
wer
e fed
for t
hree
to fo
ur m
onths
only
on m
other
’s mi
lk. S
ilage
and s
oy w
ere u
sed t
o sup
pleme
nt the
cattle
’s die
t for
much
of th
e wint
er. G
MO fe
ed w
as co
mplet
ely ex
clude
d. Al
l the f
eed
was p
rodu
ced b
y the
farm
s the
mselv
es.
A pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dra
wn up
. Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l ban
s the
use o
f cor
n sila
ge.
Gras
s sila
ge is
allow
ed du
ring t
he fin
ishing
stag
e, ho
weve
r the
farm
ers a
re ex
perim
entin
g with
not u
sing
gras
s sila
ge. T
he pe
riod i
n whic
h the
veal
calve
s are
fed
mothe
r’s m
ilk ha
s bee
n exte
nded
to 10
mon
ths.
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Some
times
the a
nimals
wer
e slau
ghter
ed at
the l
ocal
slaug
hterh
ou-
ses,
and s
ometi
mes f
urthe
r awa
y tog
ether
with
othe
r con
venti
onal
bree
ds.
A far
mers’
asso
ciatio
n was
crea
ted.
Slau
ghter
ing ta
kes p
lace i
n com
muna
l slau
ghter
hou-
ses v
ery c
lose t
o the
farm
s, an
d befo
re th
e age
of 38
mo
nths.
31
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
The p
astur
e-fed
Limp
urg o
xen m
eat w
as so
ld in
vario
us fo
rms:
fresh
, bo
uillon
, gula
sch,
tinne
d.
The p
astur
e-fed
Limp
urg o
xen m
eat is
sold
in va
rious
for
ms: fr
esh,
bouil
lon, g
ulasc
h, tin
ned.
The p
rodu
cers
have
star
ted to
slau
ghter
the c
attle
at an
olde
r age
, ba
sed p
artly
on th
e sug
gesti
on of
chefs
.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any s
pecifi
-ca
tions
? Are
they
sha-
red?
Are
they
appli
ed?
Are t
hey e
ffecti
ve?
Ther
e was
no pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol.
A pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dra
wn up
and s
hare
d. Ye
s, the
proto
col is
appli
ed ef
fectiv
ely.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
ka-
ging?
Is it
eco-
susta
i-na
ble? A
re th
e pro
-du
ct’s c
hara
cteris
tics
prop
erly
desc
ribed
on
the la
bel?
32
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium
prod
ucer
s sell
dire
ctly?
If y
es, h
ow an
d whe
re?
Do th
ey pa
rticipa
te in
Slow
Foo
d Ear
th Ma
rkets?
Are
ther
e ma
ny in
terme
diarie
s be
twee
n the
prod
ucer
s an
d con
sume
rs?
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers s
ell di
rectl
y to r
estau
rateu
rs an
d butc
hers.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
pr
oduc
ts loc
al, na
tiona
l or
inter
natio
nal?
Loca
lLo
cal, w
ith a
natio
nal m
arke
t dev
elopin
g
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up?
Is it p
rofita
ble fo
r the
pr
oduc
ers?
5.20 e
uros
per k
ilo sl
augh
tered
weig
ht.
The f
arme
rs se
ll the
Limp
urg b
eef d
irectl
y to l
ocal
butch
ers a
t aro
und 5
.50-6
euro
s per
kilo
(the p
rice v
ari-
es de
pend
ing on
the c
ut). In
some
case
s, re
staur
ateur
s bu
y the
anim
als di
rectl
y fro
m the
farm
ers.
The b
utche
rs se
ll the
fres
h mea
t to th
e pub
lic at
10-11
euro
s per
kilo.
Fa
ir dist
ributi
on of
inc
ome
Are p
rofits
fairly
dis
tribute
d and
do
they a
ctuall
y rea
ch
the ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere i
s an
asso
ciatio
n)Pr
oduc
tion q
uanti
tyHa
s the
re be
en an
inc
reas
e in p
ro-
ducti
on si
nce t
he
estab
lishm
ent o
f the
Pres
idium
? Ind
icate
the in
itial a
nd cu
rrent
quan
tities
. If th
ere h
as
not b
een a
n inc
reas
e, is
it con
sider
ed a
restr
iction
?
30 ox
en sl
augh
tered
after
a mi
nimum
of 30
mon
ths.
75 ox
en sl
augh
tered
betw
een 3
0 and
38 m
onths
. A
small
perce
ntage
of to
tal pr
oduc
tion i
s pro
cess
ed in
to go
ulasc
h, sa
lami a
nd sa
usag
es.
33
Italy (Abruzzo) - Santo Stefano di Sessanio lentils It is small and very tasty: a miniscule, just a few millimetres in diameter, globular and dark, brown-purple lentil. It grows at more than 1,000 metres high only on the slopes of Gran Sasso, in the uncontaminated area of the National Park. Some plants reach 1600 metres, but it is around 1200 metres that they give their best results. For their tiny sizes and the extreme permeability, Santo Stefano di Sessanio lentils do not need to be soaked before. They are exceptionally tasty and the best way to appreciate them is in a very simple soup: they need to be covered with water and peeled cloves of garlic, some bay leaves, salt, extra-virgin oil are added and they are brought to a slight boil in a closed pot.It is not just a lentil but a precise biotype selected in this area a long time ago. Records of legumes growing, and espe-cially lentils around Aquilano appear in some monastic documents from 998. In this area the lentil has found an ideal environment, made of long and severe winters at the close of which, by the end of March lentils are sown - and short and fresh springs. Poor mountain calcareous lands are perfect for lentils that do not require neither great manure. Instead, they become demanding legumes at the time of harvest, between the end of July and the end of August. Lentils ripen at different times according to the altitude of the field. Sometimes 15 days are spent between mowing, almost always manual, and threshing: the small mowed plants, if left on the field – before banked up in small sheaves and then piled up under a tarpaulin – nurture the seeds bringing them to ripe. Often it is not possible to use a combine harvester because fields are in impervious areas but especially because legumes are growing near the soil and with the mechanised harvesting the loss could be around 30%-40% of the harvest. In short, the harvesting is carried out like a thousand years ago and it is very tiring.The producers are mainly elderly people and most of them grow few lentils for their domestic use. The quantities are limited and they diminish every year, everything is made worse by the fake Santo Stefano di Sessanio lentils on the market which get the local producers down.The Presidium that combines a past project carried out by the Gran Sasso National Park and by the Abruzzo Region Arssa, allowed to gather them in an association to get a label and a control on the harvest in order to protect the consumer from possible frauds. Especially the Presidium works to increase the cultivations, to offer a development opportunity and a possibility for the young to stay in an extraordinary land.
34
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ultur
al lin
k with
the l
ocal
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
The S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
lenti
l is a
biotyp
e tha
t dev
elope
d thr
ough
selec
tion i
n its
histor
ic cu
ltivati
on ar
ea (in
and a
roun
d San
-to
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
in th
e pro
vince
of L’
Aquil
a). It
s cult
ivatio
n da
tes ba
ck to
the 1
1th ce
ntury
and i
s doc
umen
ted by
mon
astic
tex
ts fro
m the
area
. In re
cent
deca
des i
ts cu
ltivati
on un
derw
ent a
cri
sis ca
used
by a
flood
of fa
lse S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
lenti
ls ar
riving
from
othe
r cou
ntries
to fil
l the g
ap in
the m
arke
t. Out
of the
few
rema
ining
San
to St
efano
grow
ers,
most
were
elde
rly, a
nd th
ey
cultiv
ated s
mall p
lots a
nd ob
taine
d ver
y sma
ll har
vests
. The
town
is
inside
the G
ran S
asso
and M
onti d
ella L
aga N
ation
al Pa
rk, w
hich
launc
hed a
proje
ct to
reviv
e and
prom
ote th
e par
k’s tr
aditio
nal
agric
ultur
al pr
oduc
ts in
rece
nt ye
ars.
The a
rea i
s ver
y rich
in hi
story,
wi
th a l
ong p
astor
al an
d agr
icultu
ral tr
aditio
n. A
spec
ific pr
oject
funde
d by t
he pa
rk au
thority
and t
he A
bruz
zo R
egion
al Au
thority
’s ag
ency
for a
gricu
ltura
l dev
elopm
ent s
ervic
es ha
d alre
ady b
egun
re
viving
the o
rigina
l eco
type.
Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d man
y mee
tings
amon
g the
prod
ucer
s to
raise
awar
enes
s of th
e nee
d to r
ecov
er a
prod
uct s
o key
to th
e ar
ea’s
histor
y and
iden
tity. W
ith th
e sup
port
of the
park,
Slow
Fo
od co
ordin
ated a
serie
s of p
romo
tiona
l acti
vities
at ev
ents.
Curre
ntly 1
3 far
ms be
long t
o the
Pre
sidium
. Som
e of
the fa
rmer
s who
have
reco
vere
d the
seed
s are
the
child
ren o
f elde
rly gr
ower
s who
decid
ed to
resu
me
cultiv
ating
the l
entils
, whil
e othe
rs ha
ve ch
ildre
n who
ha
ve le
ft sch
ool a
nd ar
e abo
ut to
take o
ver t
he fa
rms.
The a
ssoc
iation
is w
orkin
g with
loca
l land
owne
rs an
d ins
titutio
ns to
get m
ore l
and f
or cu
ltivati
on an
d inc
reas
e pr
oduc
tion.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
an-
ges b
etwee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Whe
n the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, the
prod
ucer
s wer
e not
partic
ipatin
g in e
vents
or fa
irs ou
tside
of th
eir lo
cal a
rea a
nd m
any
of the
m ha
d nev
er tr
avele
d outs
ide th
eir re
gion t
o pro
mote
their
prod
uct.
Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d eve
nts an
d fair
s in I
taly t
o pro
mote
the S
low F
ood P
resid
ia. T
hese
brou
ght v
isibil
ity to
the l
entil
Pres
idium
, allo
wing
the p
rodu
cers
to tra
vel a
nd m
eet o
ther
comm
unitie
s with
simi
lar ba
ckgr
ound
s. Th
e mos
t impo
rtant
even
ts we
re S
alone
del G
usto
(Italy
) and
Eur
ogus
to in
Tour
s (F
ranc
e). T
he pr
oduc
ers h
osted
a gr
oup o
f lenti
l gro
wers
from
the is
land o
f Réu
nion t
o exc
hang
e exp
erien
ces a
nd m
et wi
th the
pr
oduc
ers f
rom
the U
stica
Lenti
l Pre
sidium
to di
scus
s cult
ivatio
n an
d har
vest
issue
s.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers t
rave
l in Ita
ly an
d abr
oad t
o pr
omote
the S
low F
ood P
resid
ium.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
atio-
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
has
it bee
n cre
ated?
How
ar
e peo
ple’s
roles
de
fined
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
crea
ted, th
ere w
as no
form
al of
asso
-cia
tion f
or th
e pro
duce
rs, on
ly co
llabo
ratio
ns ba
sed o
n per
sona
l frie
ndsh
ips to
assis
t with
agric
ultur
al wo
rk.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged t
he pr
oduc
ers t
o for
m an
asso
ciatio
n. Th
e pro
duce
rs ar
e unit
ed in
the A
ssoc
iation
of S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
Lenti
l Pro
duce
rs, w
hich k
eeps
tra
ck of
harve
sts an
d pr
oduc
t labe
lling i
n ord
er to
pr
otect
cons
umer
s fro
m fra
ud. T
he as
socia
tion a
lso
works
to in
creas
e pro
ducti
on an
d to d
evelo
p opp
ortu-
nities
to m
ake i
t eas
ier fo
r you
ng pe
ople
to sta
y in t
his
extra
ordin
ary a
rea.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Be
fore t
he P
resid
ium, th
ere w
as no
form
al gr
oup a
nd so
ther
e was
no
need
for g
roup
orga
nizati
on or
demo
cratic
man
agem
ent.
The e
stabli
shme
nt of
the as
socia
tion h
as m
ade s
ome e
lemen
ts mo
re fo
rmal;
for e
xamp
le the
prod
ucer
s now
mee
t reg
ularly
for
discu
ssion
s and
mak
e dec
ision
s tog
ether.
Most
of the
prod
ucer
s par
ticipa
te in
the m
eetin
gs an
d co
ntribu
te to
the co
llecti
ve de
cision
mak
ing.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
o-ple
? In w
hat w
ay?
Initia
lly th
ere w
ere n
o you
ng pr
oduc
ers.
The l
entils
wer
e gro
wn on
ly by
olde
r pro
duce
rs.
Slow
Foo
d has
orga
nized
prom
otion
al ac
tivitie
s (ar
ticles
, TV
repo
rts, e
vents
, etc.
) aim
ed at
incre
asing
the p
rofita
bility
of th
e len
tils an
d mak
ing th
eir cu
ltivati
on m
ore a
ppea
ling t
o you
ng
peop
le.
Ther
e are
now
two y
oung
prod
ucer
s cult
ivatin
g len
tils
on th
eir ow
n far
m, w
hile o
ther y
oung
peop
le ar
e help
ing
with
family
busin
esse
s.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for th
e dist
ributi
on
of po
wer?
(egali
tarian
, ce
ntrali
zed,
horiz
ontal
, ve
rtical,
etc.)
Ther
e was
no fo
rmal
grou
p. Sl
ow F
ood w
orke
d to c
reate
an as
socia
tion s
o tha
t the i
ssue
s re
lating
to th
e Pre
sidium
could
be de
alt w
ith co
llecti
vely.
The a
ssem
bly de
mocra
ticall
y elec
ts a p
resid
ent, w
ho
serve
s as a
n inte
rmed
iary b
etwee
n the
grou
p of p
rodu
-ce
rs an
d othe
r enti
tes, in
cludin
g Slow
Foo
d (loc
ally a
nd
natio
nally
).
35
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
Ther
e was
no fo
rmal
grou
p. Th
anks
to th
e coll
ectiv
e wor
k gen
erate
d by t
he P
resid
ium’s
activ
ity, th
e pro
duce
rs be
gan t
o wan
t to es
tablis
h a re
gular
me
eting
time,
in ad
dition
to th
e man
y opp
ortun
ities f
or in
forma
l dis
cuss
ions t
hat ta
ke pl
ace a
s par
t of c
ommu
nity l
ife.
The m
eetin
gs be
twee
n the
prod
ucer
s are
regu
lated
by
the as
socia
tion’s
statu
te, an
d othe
r infor
mal m
eetin
gs
are h
eld w
hen n
eces
sary,
for e
xamp
le to
orga
nize
partic
ipatio
n in e
vents
or to
reso
lve is
sues
raise
d by
Slow
Foo
d.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
The p
rodu
cers
only
had i
ndivi
dual
relat
ionsh
ips w
ith lo
cal in
stitu-
tions
, aim
ed pr
imar
ily at
obtai
ning f
undin
g for
their
activ
ities.
The d
esire
to cr
eate
a Pre
sidium
, and
then
an as
socia
tion,
inspir
ed th
e pro
duce
rs to
relat
e mor
e with
insti
tution
s, pr
imar
ily
the pa
rk au
thority
, and
to m
ake r
eque
sts co
llecti
vely.
The P
resid
ium is
perm
anen
tly ov
erse
en by
the G
ran
Sass
o and
Mon
ti dell
a Lag
a par
k auth
ority
. The
Pre
-sid
ium ha
s stre
ngthe
ned r
elatio
nship
s with
othe
r loca
l ins
titutio
ns lik
e the
Mun
icipa
lity of
San
to St
efano
di
Sess
anio.
One
of th
e pro
duce
rs is
curre
ntly t
he m
ayor
of
Santo
Stef
ano d
i Ses
sanio
.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
had n
o rela
tions
hip w
ith S
low
Food
. W
ith th
e esta
blish
ment
of the
Pre
sidium
, Slow
Foo
d clos
ely
follow
ed th
e pro
duce
rs ‘ a
ctivit
ies, e
ncou
ragin
g the
m to
reviv
e an
d pro
mote
the le
ntils.
In pa
rticula
r, it h
elped
them
prom
ote th
e us
e of th
e len
tils in
loca
l resta
uran
ts.
The p
rodu
cers
are n
ow m
embe
rs of
the S
low F
ood a
s-so
ciatio
n and
partic
ipate
in loc
ally o
rgan
ized a
ctivit
ies
(mar
kets,
even
ts, di
nner
s). S
ilvia
De P
aulis
, the p
ark’s
ag
rono
mist
and t
he dr
iving
force
behin
d the
area
’s firs
t Pr
esidi
a, ha
s bec
ome a
natio
nal c
ounc
ilor f
or S
low
Food
Italy.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
rati-
ficati
on as
a re
sult?
Ha
s the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Apar
t from
one p
rodu
cer w
ho al
so ra
n a w
ell-kn
own l
ocal
resta
u-ra
nt, th
e othe
r pro
duce
rs re
ceive
d no p
artic
ular r
ecog
nition
for t
heir
work
prote
cting
the l
entil.
The
y wer
e not
awar
e of th
e pote
ntial
of a
quali
ty pr
oduc
t like
the S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
lenti
l.
Partic
ipatio
n in e
vents
and f
airs,
wher
e the
prod
ucer
s cou
ld me
et an
inter
ested
publi
c mad
e up o
f food
enthu
siasts
, jour
nalis
ts an
d re
staur
ateur
s, bo
osted
their
awar
enes
s abo
ut the
value
of th
eir
activ
ities.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers a
re no
w kn
own l
ocall
y and
na
tiona
lly in
quali
ty foo
d circ
les. S
ome o
f them
run
holid
ay fa
rms w
hich a
re lis
ted in
guide
s to r
estau
rants
in
the ar
ea.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers)
and
vertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Until
the es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, ther
e wer
e no o
ppor
tuni-
ties f
or th
e tra
nsmi
ssion
of kn
owled
ge, e
xcep
t infor
mally
thro
ugh
friend
ships
betw
een p
rodu
cers.
The P
resid
ium’s
activ
ity ha
s pus
hed t
he pr
oduc
ers t
o imp
rove
the
ir pro
duct,
than
ks to
incre
ased
dialo
gue a
mong
them
selve
s an
d with
expe
rts fr
om S
low F
ood a
nd th
e Gra
n Sas
so N
ation
al Pa
rk. In
this
way,
prod
ucer
s who
wer
e les
s exp
ert in
grow
ing
the le
ntils
also r
eceiv
ed tr
aining
. The
exam
ple of
the P
resid
ium
inspir
ed lo
cal in
stitut
ions t
o star
t sim
ilar in
itiativ
es w
ith ot
her lo
cal
prod
ucer
s, wh
o wer
e the
n netw
orke
d tog
ether
with
the l
entil
grow
ers.
The g
roup
of le
ntil p
rodu
cers
is co
llabo
ratin
g on a
pr
oject
to re
vive t
radit
ional
varie
ties,
run b
y the
Gra
n Sa
sso a
nd M
onti d
ella L
aga N
ation
al Pa
rk. To
ge-
ther w
ith ot
her lo
cal c
ommu
nities
who
also
prote
ct tra
dition
al loc
al pr
oduc
ts (N
avell
i saff
ron,
Paga
nica
bean
s, Tu
rches
a pota
toes,
moun
tain g
enep
y, Su
lmon
a re
d gar
lic),
they c
arry
out lo
cal p
romo
tion a
ctivit
ies to
inf
orm
cons
umer
s abo
ut pr
oduc
ts fro
m the
Gra
n Sas
so
moun
tains
. The
y also
wor
k tog
ether
to pr
esen
t thes
e pr
oduc
ts at
locall
y org
anize
d sem
inars
and c
onfer
en-
ces.
With
in the
grou
p, ce
rtain
grow
ers a
re re
cogn
ized
as “h
istor
ic” an
d the
y pas
s the
ir exp
erien
ce on
to ne
w pr
oduc
ers a
nd he
lp tho
se w
ho ar
e hav
ing pr
oblem
s.
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
tici-
pate
in ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities?
The o
rigina
l Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s did
not p
artic
ipate
in or
orga
nize
educ
ation
activ
ities.
Th
e gro
wers
were
invo
lved i
n edu
catio
n acti
vities
orga
nized
by
the G
ran S
asso
and M
onti d
ella L
aga N
ation
al Pa
rk an
d Slow
Fo
od.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers a
re in
volve
d in t
he lo
cal
netw
ork o
f cus
todian
farm
ers,
and w
ithin
this n
etwor
k the
y reg
ularly
run e
duca
tion a
ctivit
ies fo
r chil
dren
and
cons
umer
s.
36
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
u-ce
rs, ho
w ma
ny ar
e the
re an
d whe
re ar
e the
y?
Ther
e wer
e aro
und 2
0 init
ial pr
oduc
ers,
prim
arily
grow
ing th
e len
tils
for th
eir ow
n con
sump
tion.
Th
e obje
ctive
of th
e Slow
Foo
d Pre
sidium
was
to in
volve
a gr
eater
numb
er of
prod
ucer
s, se
lectin
g the
m ba
sed o
n the
ir wi
llingn
ess t
o com
mit to
a pr
oject
gove
rned
by sp
ecific
rules
and
to fol
low a
strict
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol.
The “
Santo
Stef
ano d
i Ses
sanio
Lenti
l” pro
ducti
on zo
ne
cove
rs the
south
ern s
lopes
of th
e Gra
n Sas
so in
the
prov
ince o
f L’A
quila
: the m
unici
paliti
es of
Bar
iscian
o (L
e Loc
ce, L
a Villa
and F
iletto
), Ca
lascio
, Cas
tel de
l Mo
nte, C
astel
vech
io Ca
lvisio
(Vian
o and
Buto
) and
Sa
nto S
tefan
o di S
essa
nio. C
urre
ntly 1
3 pro
duce
rs be
long t
o the
proje
ct. T
his nu
mber
is lo
wer t
han t
he
numb
er of
poten
tial p
rodu
cers
at the
star
t, as s
ome
have
stop
ped f
armi
ng be
caus
e of th
eir el
derly
age.
Howe
ver, t
he nu
mber
of he
ctare
s cult
ivated
and
the pr
oduc
tion v
olume
have
incre
ased
beca
use t
he
rema
ining
prod
ucer
s hav
e bee
n wor
king t
o imp
rove
the
ir yiel
ds.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
o-div
ersit
y in g
ener
al,
allow
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
ar-
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
Until
the cr
eatio
n of th
e Pre
sidium
, ther
e wer
e no c
onsc
ious a
ction
s tak
en to
prote
ct the
ecos
ystem
, but
the pr
oduc
ers u
sed t
radit
ional
farmi
ng m
ethod
s pas
sed d
own w
ithin
their f
amilie
s.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged t
he de
velop
ment
of a g
reate
r awa
rene
ss
of wo
rking
to pr
otect
biodiv
ersit
y and
the e
nviro
nmen
t, con
tinu-
ing th
e tra
dition
al cu
ltivati
on of
the l
entils
but a
lso st
imula
ting
inter
est in
prote
cting
othe
r loca
l var
ieties
.
The p
rodu
cers
are w
orkin
g to r
evive
othe
r hist
oric
local
varie
ties o
f chic
kpea
s, be
ans a
nd po
tatoe
s, all
loca
l bio
types
histo
ricall
y cult
ivated
here
. Ove
r the
cour
se
of the
year
s, thi
s acti
vity h
as le
d to t
he re
cove
ry of
marg
inal a
nd ab
ando
ned l
and,
thus h
elping
to pr
otect
the pa
rk’s e
cosy
stem.
Natu
ral p
roble
ms de
alt w
ith
susta
inably
: for e
xamp
le da
mage
caus
ed by
wild
boar
is
contr
olled
by bu
ilding
enclo
sure
s and
captu
re ca
ges,
rathe
r tha
n hun
ting..
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
The c
rops
wer
e not
irriga
ted.
The P
resid
ium pr
otoco
l spe
cified
the c
ontin
uatio
n of tr
aditio
nal
prac
tices
. Irr
igatio
n is n
ot us
ed.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?Be
fore t
he st
art o
f the p
rojec
t, som
e pro
duce
rs us
ed ch
emica
l fer
tilize
rs.
The S
low F
ood e
xper
ts an
d the
park
autho
rity pu
shed
the p
rodu
-ce
rs to
be m
ore a
ware
of en
viron
menta
l issu
es.
The P
resid
ium ha
s esta
blish
ed th
at ch
emica
l fertil
izers
are n
ot to
be us
ed.
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?Be
fore t
he st
art o
f the p
rojec
t, the
majo
rity of
the p
rodu
cers
used
or
ganic
fertil
izers.
Th
e Pre
sidium
proto
col s
pecifi
ed th
at thi
s pra
ctice
be co
ntinu
ed.
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rs, pr
imar
ily m
anur
e, ar
e tra
dition
ally
used
. All t
ypes
of an
imal
manu
re ar
e allo
wed,
as lo
ng
as th
ey ar
e spr
ead w
hen t
hey h
ave r
each
ed th
e righ
t lev
el of
matur
ity.
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?Be
fore t
he pr
oject
starte
d, so
me pr
oduc
ers u
sed c
hemi
cal tr
e-atm
ents.
Th
e Slow
Foo
d exp
erts
and t
he pa
rk au
thority
push
ed th
e pro
du-
cers
to be
mor
e awa
re of
envir
onme
ntal is
sues
. On
ly pr
oduc
ts all
owed
by or
ganic
agric
ultur
e reg
ula-
tions
can b
e use
d to c
ontro
l par
asite
s in t
he fie
ld. N
o typ
e of s
ynthe
tic ch
emica
l wee
dkille
r can
be us
ed to
co
ntrol
weed
s.
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
ener
gy?
NoTh
e Slow
Foo
d exp
erts
and t
he pa
rk au
thority
push
ed th
e pro
du-
cers
to be
mor
e awa
re of
envir
onme
ntal is
sues
. Th
e pro
duce
rs us
e sola
r-pow
ered
elec
tric fe
ncing
to
prote
ct the
ir cro
ps fr
om w
ild bo
ars.
37
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds ac
qui-
red?
Are
they
boug
ht or
repr
oduc
ed?
All th
e gro
wers
prod
uced
their
own s
eeds
on th
e far
m, bu
t som
e-tim
es th
ey w
ould
get th
em fr
om no
n-loc
al pr
oduc
ers,
witho
ut the
gu
aran
tee th
at the
y wer
e sow
ing th
e orig
inal le
ntil b
iotyp
e. Th
is cre
ated
poten
tial s
eed c
ontam
inatio
n pro
blems
.
With
the h
elp of
the A
bruz
zo R
egion
al Au
thority
’s ag
ency
for
agric
ultur
al de
velop
ment
servi
ces,
the P
resid
ium ca
rried
out
a gen
etic i
nves
tigati
on of
the l
entils
being
grow
n by a
ll the
pr
oduc
ers t
o find
out w
hich o
nes d
id no
t belo
ng to
the S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
bioty
pe, a
nd th
en to
clea
n the
seed
s fro
m an
y var
ietal
conta
mina
tion.
The m
ateria
l use
d to p
rodu
ce th
e San
to St
efano
di
Sess
anio
lentils
come
s fro
m se
eds r
epro
duce
d with
in the
prod
uctio
n zon
e ind
icated
by th
e pro
tocol
and i
n lot
s ind
icated
each
year
by th
e pro
duce
rs’ as
socia
tion.
The a
ssoc
iation
prote
cts th
e var
iety b
y ide
ntifyi
ng fie
lds
wher
e the
seed
s are
pres
erve
d.
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
prac
ticed
thre
e- or
six-y
ear
rotat
ion in
their
fields
. Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
he co
ntinu
ation
of th
is pr
actic
e.
The c
rops
are t
radit
ionall
y rota
ted us
ing a
three
- or s
ix-ye
ar sy
stem.
In th
e thr
ee-ye
ar ro
tation
, a fa
llow
perio
d is
follow
ed by
grain
s (wh
eat, b
arley
, rye
, emm
er, et
c.).
With
a six
-year
rotat
ion, th
e fall
ow ye
ar ca
n be r
eplac
ed
by th
ree y
ears
of for
age (
sainf
oin).
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
NoNo
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stai-
nable
? Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
-sit
ion of
the f
eed?
Do
es it
conta
in sil
age,
GMOs
, etc.
?
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the l
entils
wer
e pre
serve
d by n
atura
l dryi
ng,
with
cold
treatm
ent to
prote
ct ag
ainst
weev
ils.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
this
prac
tice.
Th
e len
tils ar
e still
pres
erve
d by n
atura
l dryi
ng, w
ith
cold
treatm
ent to
prote
ct ag
ainst
weev
ils.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
Ther
e wer
e no s
pecifi
catio
ns fo
r the
prod
uctio
n of th
is typ
e of le
ntil.
Many
mee
tings
wer
e held
with
the p
rodu
cers
and t
echn
ical
expe
rts to
draw
up a
single
docu
ment
regu
lating
the p
rodu
ction
of
this b
iotyp
e in i
ts tra
dition
al cu
ltivati
on zo
ne.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col w
as dr
awn u
p and
is sh
ared
by
the pr
oduc
ers.
The a
ssoc
iation
has r
ecog
nized
it as
a pr
otoco
l for it
s mem
bers,
who
adhe
re to
it.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
ka-
ging?
Is it
eco-
susta
i-na
ble? A
re th
e pro
-du
ct’s c
hara
cteris
tics
prop
erly
desc
ribed
on
the la
bel?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, not
all th
e pro
duce
rs so
ld the
prod
uct in
pa
ckag
ing. M
any s
old th
e len
tils lo
ose o
r sim
ply us
ed th
em fo
r ho
me co
nsum
ption
.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged t
he pr
oduc
ers t
o sell
the l
entils
in pa
cka-
ging s
o tha
t the v
ariet
y cou
ld be
bette
r iden
tified
and t
o disc
oura
-ge
the s
ale of
impo
rted l
entils
, gen
erall
y fro
m Tu
rkey o
r Can
ada,
which
look
simi
lar to
the S
anto
Stefa
no di
Ses
sanio
type
.
A co
mmon
pack
aging
has n
ot be
en cr
eated
yet; e
very
prod
ucer
uses
their
own.
The l
entils
are n
o lon
ger
sold
loose
, so t
hat th
eir or
igin i
s bett
er id
entifi
ed an
d to
guar
antee
trac
eabil
ity fr
om pr
oduc
er to
cons
umer.
Ho
weve
r, a si
ngle
type o
f pac
kagin
g and
labe
ling i
s cu
rrentl
y bein
g dev
elope
d, to
bette
r illus
trate
the le
ntil’s
ch
arac
terist
ics an
d imp
rove
the s
ustai
nabil
ity of
the
pack
aging
mate
rials.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
38
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
odu-
cers
and c
onsu
mers?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
who d
id se
ll the
ir len
tils so
ld the
m to
whole
saler
s, tra
ders
or ot
her p
rodu
cers
in the
ar
ea, n
ot dir
ectly
to co
nsum
ers.
Slow
Foo
d did
much
wor
k to e
ncou
rage
the p
rodu
cers
to se
ll dir
ectly
and s
horte
n the
distr
ibutio
n cha
in, th
us br
inging
them
fai
rer r
emun
erati
on fo
r the
ir wor
k.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers s
ell so
me of
their
lenti
ls to
whole
saler
s, so
me to
retai
lers a
nd so
me di
rectl
y to
cons
umer
s. Th
ey ha
ve de
velop
ed a
faithf
ul ba
se of
cu
stome
rs wh
o ord
er th
e len
tils in
adva
nce a
nd ha
ve
them
deliv
ered
to th
eir ho
mes.
They
also
sell t
he le
ntils
direc
tly fr
om th
eir fa
rms a
nd at
even
ts, m
arke
ts, et
c. Th
e per
centa
ge of
the p
rodu
ct so
ld to
trade
rs ha
s red
u-ce
d con
sider
ably.
Som
e pro
duce
rs se
ll 100
perce
nt to
the fin
al pr
oduc
ers w
hile s
ome l
arge
r bus
iness
es ha
ve
arou
nd 60
perce
nt dir
ect s
ales.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na-
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the m
arke
t was
loca
l. Sl
ow F
ood h
as cr
eated
man
y opp
ortun
ities f
or th
e sale
of th
e pr
oduc
t nati
onall
y tha
nks t
o eve
nts an
d to c
ommu
nicati
on on
the
webs
ite an
d in p
ublic
ation
s.
The m
arke
t is pr
incipa
lly lo
cal a
nd na
tiona
l. Aro
und
60 to
70 pe
rcent
of the
lenti
ls ar
e sold
in L’
Aquil
a and
ac
ross
the r
egion
. The
rest
go to
clien
ts ar
ound
Italy,
an
d esp
ecial
ly Ro
me.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up
? Is i
t pro
fitable
for
the pr
oduc
ers?
The s
elling
price
befor
e the
Pre
sidium
rang
ed fr
om 6-
7 eur
os pe
r kil
o to w
holes
alers
up to
10 eu
ros a
kilo
for di
rect
sales
from
the
farm.
Far
m sa
les re
pres
ented
a tin
y par
t of s
ales a
nd th
erefo
re th
e pr
oduc
ers w
ere e
arnin
g ver
y littl
e com
pare
d to t
he ef
fort n
eede
d to
prod
uce t
he le
ntils.
Slow
Foo
d’s co
mmun
icatio
n wor
k - th
roug
h artic
les, e
vents
, the
webs
ite et
c. - h
as in
forme
d con
sume
rs of
the sp
ecial
quali
ties
of the
lenti
ls an
d the
reas
ons t
hey a
re m
ore e
xpen
sive t
han
ordin
ary l
entils
r, and
prom
oted
the im
porta
nce o
f buy
ing th
em
direc
tly fr
om th
e pro
duce
r.
The s
elling
price
is ar
ound
10 eu
ros a
kilo
to wh
olesa
-ler
s to 1
5-16
euro
s a ki
lo wh
en so
ld dir
ectly
to th
e con
-su
mer. T
he pr
ice is
profi
table,
thou
gh th
e pro
ducti
on
costs
for t
his ty
pe of
lenti
l are
on av
erag
e high
er th
an
for or
dinar
y len
tils, b
ecau
se of
the l
abor
invo
lved a
nd
the ty
pe of
land
on w
hich t
hey a
re gr
own.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
sold
their l
entils
indiv
iduall
y.
The a
ctivit
ies of
the P
resid
ium as
socia
tion d
o not
includ
e org
a-niz
ing co
llecti
ve sa
les of
the p
rodu
ct.Th
e pro
duce
rs se
ll ind
ividu
ally.
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pr
oduc
tion s
ince t
he
estab
lishm
ent o
f the
Pres
idium
? Ind
icate
the in
itial a
nd cu
rrent
quan
tities
. If th
ere h
as
not b
een a
n inc
reas
e, is
it con
sider
ed a
restr
iction
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, aro
und 9
0 quin
tals o
f San
to St
efano
di S
es-
sanio
lenti
ls we
re pr
oduc
ed an
nuall
y.
Slow
Foo
d and
the p
ark a
uthor
ity su
ppor
ted th
e tra
ining
of th
e far
mers
so th
at the
y cou
ld im
prov
e the
ir yiel
ds. A
dditio
nally
the
rising
dema
nd fo
r the
Pre
sidium
lenti
l at h
igher
price
s has
led t
o an
incre
ase i
n its
cultiv
ation
.
Curre
ntly a
roun
d 150
quint
als of
the P
resid
ium le
ntils
are p
rodu
ced a
year.
The
re is
the p
otenti
al to
incre
ase
this b
y imp
rovin
g som
e pro
duce
rs’ yi
elds a
nd id
entify
-ing
mor
e lan
d for
cultiv
ation
. The
futur
e obje
ctive
s of
the pr
oduc
ers’
asso
ciatio
n are
to re
cove
r som
e unc
ul-tiv
ated b
ut su
itable
land
and t
o imp
rove
the c
ultiva
tion
techn
iques
being
used
. The
asso
ciatio
n is p
lannin
g to
intro
duce
a co
llabo
rativ
e asp
ect to
cultiv
ation
, with
the
memb
ers r
ecipr
ocall
y help
ing ea
ch ot
her d
uring
the
grow
ing cy
cle. T
his w
ay th
e mor
e exp
ert p
rodu
cers
and t
hose
with
mor
e mac
hiner
y can
help
the ot
hers.
Ad
dition
ally,
by un
iting t
heir v
ariou
s sma
ll plot
s, the
y co
uld ob
tain l
arge
r sur
face a
reas
, whic
h wou
ld fac
ilitate
the
wor
k and
impr
ove y
ields
.
39
Italy (Lombardia) - Heritage BittoBitto is undoubtedly one of the symbols of Lombardy cheese-making: with a long and distinguished tradition and extremely well-adapted to ageing, it is firmly rooted in its native mountains. The historic centre of production lies in the valleys of the stream whose name it bears: Gerola and Albaredo, in the province of Sondrio. The cheese produced in the summer pastu-res of these valleys, at a height of 1400 to 2000 meters above sea level, has unique characteristics. In fact the producers are required to follow a whole series of traditional practices which maintain the quality of the cheese as well as playing a crucial role in the conservation of the environment and Alpine biodiversity. First and foremost is the practice of rotational grazing: During the three months of summer, the herds of cows are moved in stages from the lowest pastures to the hi-ghest. Along the way are the traditional “calècc” – ancient stone huts used for cheese-making, they serve as shelter and workshop, always close at hand, so that the milk does not need to travel more than a few meters and can be processed before its natural warmth has dispersed. Another traditional custom is the inclusion in the herd of Orobica goats. The milk from these animals makes up 10 to 20% of the total and gives the Bitto a particular aroma and consistency. For maximum care of the animals’ health, milking is done exclusively by hand. The cheese is salted when dry; allowing a delicate crust to develop and improving ripening. Moreover, no supplements are permitted in the cattle’s food, and no additives, preserva-tives or fermenting agents in the cheese itself. Bitto cheese is one of the fundamental ingredients, together with butter, buckwheat and cabbage, of the Valtellina area’s trademark dish, pizzocheri. A triumph of mountain flavours, this calorific bomb can be processed only if it is in one’s genes or if one plans to climb the mountains where they make it. But it is unfair to relegate one of Italy’s finest cheeses to the status of a condiment: properly matured Bitto is a fine table cheese, and if it is matured for 6 or 7 years, it becomes one of those extremely rare cheeses which one savors and remembers for ever. The Presidium came into being in order to promote mountain production of this cheese in its traditional area: the valleys of Albaredo and Gerola. The practices adhered to by the members, who form the Consortium for the Safeguard of Bitto Storico, not only benefit the quality of the cheese and its environment, but also signify an increase in the human energy and resources involved in its production. This situation needs to be recognized in the market-place, so that producers receive fair remuneration for their pivotal role in environmental conservation. In fact, if these Alpine pasture-lands are abandoned, they decline quickly and within a few years become practically impossible to save. Only wheels judged to be of the highest quality and therefore fit for long-term maturing are recognized as Presidium pro-ducts.
Fran
ziska
Dos
wald
40
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ul-tur
al lin
k with
the
local
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
Bitto
is on
e of th
e sym
bols
of Lo
mbar
dy’s
chee
sema
king t
radit
ion,
an un
usua
l che
ese w
ith a
long h
istor
y and
an in
credib
le ap
titude
for
aging
. Its o
rigin
is lin
ked t
o the
two v
alley
s for
med b
y the
Bitto
Rive
r, the
Valg
erola
and t
he A
lbare
do V
alley
, in th
e pro
vince
of S
ondr
io. T
he
chee
se is
mad
e in m
ounta
in da
iries i
n the
valle
ys, a
t altit
udes
rang
ing
from
1,400
to 2,
000 m
eters
abov
e sea
leve
l. The
chee
sema
kers
conti
nue t
o use
trad
itiona
l pra
ctice
s, lik
e pas
ture r
otatio
n. Th
e che
ese
is ma
de di
rectl
y in t
he m
ounta
in pa
sture
s in a
ncien
t ston
e she
lters
calle
d calè
cc, w
here
the m
ilk is
proc
esse
d as s
oon a
s it h
as be
en
milke
d. Th
e pro
duce
rs sti
ll rais
e a na
tive b
reed
of go
at, th
e Oro
bica
or V
al Ge
rola
(des
ignate
d at r
isk of
extin
ction
by th
e EU)
. A m
axim
um
of 20
perce
nt of
the m
ilk fo
r Bitto
can c
ome f
rom
these
goats
.
Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d mee
tings
with
the h
istor
ic pr
oduc
ers t
o re
cord
the t
radit
ions o
f Bitto
in w
riting
and w
ork o
ut the
basic
ele
ments
need
ed to
keep
them
alive
. It al
so or
ganiz
ed pr
ess c
on-
feren
ces a
nd se
mina
rs to
comm
unica
te to
the w
ider p
ublic
and t
he
media
the n
eed t
o pro
mote
this p
rodu
ct an
d dist
inguis
h it fr
om th
e mo
re st
anda
rdize
d che
eses
mad
e in o
ther v
alley
s in t
he pr
ovinc
e. Ar
ticles
wer
e pub
lishe
d in S
low F
ood’s
mag
azine
s and
jour
nalis
ts we
re pr
ovide
d with
news
and i
nform
ation
abou
t the c
hees
e.
The h
istor
ic Bi
tto pr
oduc
ers a
re un
ited i
n the
Ass
ocia-
tion o
f Bitto
Vall
eys P
rodu
cers.
The
y agr
eed t
o foll
ow a
proto
col th
at sp
ecifie
s the
rules
for t
radit
ional
prod
uctio
n an
d the
histo
ric P
rodu
ctio
n Are
a. It a
lso sp
ecifie
s the
ne
ed to
prote
ct the
Oro
bica g
oat a
nd to
use i
ts mi
lk to
make
Bitto
. The
ir acti
vity l
ed to
the S
low F
ood c
ampa
ign
“Res
isten
za C
asea
ria” (
chee
se re
sistan
ce),
which
uses
de
bates
, buy
ing gr
oups
, artic
les an
d mee
tings
with
the
publi
c to p
ublic
ize th
e nee
d to s
uppo
rt pe
ople
who
make
chee
se an
d far
m liv
estoc
k usin
g sus
taina
ble an
d an
cient
prac
tices
. The
stor
y is n
ow w
idely
know
n and
the
asso
ciatio
n of p
rodu
cers
has b
ecom
e a sy
mbol
of the
stru
ggle
of sm
all-sc
ale pr
oduc
ers t
o main
tain t
heir
identi
ty in
a mar
ket in
creas
ingly
flood
ed by
stan
dard
ized
prod
ucts.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
in-ing
exch
ange
s be-
twee
n the
Pre
sidium
an
d othe
r enti
ties?
Ha
ve th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers t
rave
led,
partic
ipated
in ev
ents,
etc
.?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e pro
duce
rs ha
d nev
er le
ft the
ir loc
al ar
ea an
d only
mad
e the
chee
se. T
hey h
ad no
spec
ial re
lation
ship
with
cons
umer
s who
wer
e not
local.
Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d eve
nts in
Italy,
wro
te ar
ticles
, mad
e a do
cu-
menta
ry an
d pub
licize
d the
ir acti
vities
in th
e med
ia. T
his m
eant
the
prod
ucer
s cou
ld tra
vel a
nd m
eet o
ther c
hees
emak
ers,
giving
them
a c
hanc
e to p
rese
nt the
ir pro
duct
to a w
ider p
ublic
.
The p
rodu
cers
regu
larly
host
other
prod
ucer
s, Ita
lian
and i
ntern
ation
al Pr
esidi
a and
othe
r visi
tors a
t their
col-
lectiv
e agin
g fac
ility i
n Ger
ola A
lta.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Whe
n the
Pre
sidium
was
star
ted, th
e Ass
ociat
ion of
Bitto
Vall
eys
Prod
ucer
s alre
ady e
xisted
. It un
ited a
ll 16 o
f the a
ctive
mou
ntain
chee
sema
kers
in the
two h
istor
ic va
lleys
. This
simp
le as
socia
tion w
as
led by
Pao
lo Ci
appa
relli,
not a
prod
ucer
but a
Bitto
enthu
siast
and a
frie
nd of
all th
e pro
duce
rs. T
he as
socia
tion b
elong
ed to
the P
DO B
itto
cons
ortiu
m. T
his w
as a
sour
ce of
confl
ict be
caus
e the
cons
ortiu
m inc
luded
prod
ucer
s fro
m a m
uch l
arge
r are
a, an
d its
regu
lation
s did
not in
clude
some
of th
e tra
dition
al pr
actic
es fo
r Bitto
chee
sema
king.
In 20
03 it
beca
me ne
cess
ary t
o esta
blish
a Pr
esidi
um to
disti
nguis
h the
authe
ntic B
itto on
the m
arke
t, bec
ause
the c
onso
rtium
would
no
longe
r let th
e hist
oric
prod
ucer
s bra
nd th
eir fo
rms w
ith th
e ass
ocia-
tion’s
logo
. The
Pre
sidium
was
foun
ded t
hank
s to S
low F
ood’s
ac
tions
and c
ommu
nicati
on.
Slow
Foo
d met
with
the pr
oduc
ers,
and a
sked
that
the as
socia
tion
come
up w
ith a
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
to be
sign
ed by
all th
e pro
duc-
ers.
It beg
an to
comm
unica
te the
ir situ
ation
and d
ifficu
lties,
and
also t
o pro
mote
their c
hees
e at e
vents
and t
astin
gs, w
riting
abou
t it
and i
ntervi
ewing
the p
rodu
cers.
The s
ituati
on ha
s evo
lved.
The P
DO co
nsor
tium
made
so
me de
cision
s tha
t the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers d
id no
t ag
ree w
ith, in
cludin
g som
e rec
ent q
uesti
onab
le ch
ange
s to
its sp
ecific
ation
s. To
avoid
being
depe
nden
t on t
he
cons
ortiu
m an
d to b
e able
to us
e the
name
Bitto
(to d
o thi
s the
y mus
t adh
ere t
o the
PDO
), in
2011
the p
rodu
c-er
s fou
nded
the C
onso
rtium
for th
e Safe
guar
ding o
f He
ritage
Bitto
. Its m
embe
rs ar
e the
14 m
embe
rs of
the
Bitto
Vall
eys a
ssoc
iation
and B
itto Tr
ading
S.p.
A, th
e co
mmer
cial a
rm, w
hich a
ges t
he ch
eese
s and
whic
h is
made
up of
the p
rodu
cers
and v
ariou
s fun
ders.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Th
e gro
up of
prod
ucer
s was
very
cohe
sive a
nd le
d by P
aolo
Ciap
par-
elli, w
hose
lead
ersh
ip wa
s nev
er ca
lled i
nto qu
estio
n. No
nethe
less,
decis
ions i
n the
asso
ciatio
n wer
e mad
e dem
ocra
ticall
y.
Ciap
pare
lli or
ganiz
ed re
gular
mee
tings
with
the p
rodu
cers
to co
n-su
lt with
them
abou
t issu
es lin
ked t
o the
Pre
sidium
, and
stee
red
the as
socia
tion t
owar
ds a
cons
ortiu
m.
The p
rodu
cers
partic
ipate
activ
ely an
d dem
ocra
ticall
y in
the de
cision
s mad
e by t
he co
nsor
tium
that r
eplac
ed th
eir
asso
ciatio
n. Th
eir co
nsor
tium
is pa
rt of
the B
itto Tr
ading
S.
p.A. c
ompa
ny, M
A SO
PRA
NON
DICE
CHE
BIT
TO
TRAD
ING
FA P
ARTE
DEL
CON
SORZ
IO? N
ON C
HE
IL CO
NSOR
ZIO
FA P
ARTE
DI B
ITTO
TRA
DING
whic
h bu
ys th
e fre
sh B
itto at
a go
od pr
ice fr
om th
e pro
duce
rs an
d the
n res
ells i
t. The
end-
of-ye
ar pr
ofits
are s
hare
d wi
th the
prod
ucer
s.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
ople?
In
what
way?
Youn
g peo
ple in
the v
alley
s hav
e tra
dition
ally t
aken
up th
e che
ese-
makin
g fro
m the
ir par
ents,
and c
ontin
ue to
do so
toda
y.
Slow
Foo
d pro
moted
the e
xper
ience
s of th
e you
ng pr
oduc
ers,
focus
ing on
their
role,
inter
viewi
ng th
em fo
r artic
les an
d enc
oura
g-ing
them
as m
uch a
s pos
sible
in its
camp
aigns
.
Youn
g peo
ple ar
e acti
ve in
the d
airies
and o
ften w
in ch
eese
comp
etitio
ns he
ld an
nuall
y in t
he va
lley.
41
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mo
del is
used
for
the di
stribu
tion o
f po
wer?
(ega
litaria
n, ce
ntrali
zed,
horiz
ontal
, ve
rtical,
etc.)
The d
istrib
ution
of po
wer w
as re
gulat
ed by
the a
ssoc
iation
’s sta
tute,
which
stipu
lated
that
decis
ions b
e mad
e dem
ocra
ticall
y, by
a ma
jority
, an
d tha
t lead
ers b
e elec
ted by
the m
embe
rs.
No sp
ecific
actio
n was
nece
ssar
y. Th
e Pre
sidium
was
alre
ady
orga
nized
demo
cratic
ally.
The p
rodu
cers
each
have
a vo
te in
the ne
w co
nsor
tium
and d
ecisi
ons a
re ta
ken d
emoc
ratic
ally.
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
In ad
dition
to th
e mee
tings
regu
lated
by th
e stat
ute, th
e pro
duce
rs me
t infor
mally
whe
n nec
essa
ry.
No sp
ecific
actio
n was
nece
ssar
y. Th
e Pre
sidium
was
alre
ady
orga
nized
demo
cratic
ally.
Prod
ucer
s par
ticipa
te in
cons
ortiu
m me
eting
s, wh
ere
decis
ions a
re m
ade a
bout
all th
e iss
ues l
inked
to th
e Pr
esidi
um, fr
om pa
rticipa
tion i
n eve
nts to
the d
ivisio
n of
end-
of-ye
ar pr
ofits.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
The p
rodu
cers’
relat
ionsh
ips w
ith lo
cal in
stitut
ions h
ave a
lway
s bee
n so
mewh
at tric
ky. G
ood r
elatio
nship
s exis
ted w
ith th
e Mun
icipa
lity of
Ge
rola
and t
he lo
cal m
ounta
in co
mmun
ity.
Reso
lving
the p
roble
ms th
at ar
ose,
espe
cially
with
the P
DO
cons
ortiu
m, re
quire
d the
repr
esen
tative
s of th
e pro
duce
rs’ as
-so
ciatio
n to p
artic
ipate
in dis
cuss
ions w
ith m
unici
paliti
es, m
ounta
in co
mmun
ities,
the re
giona
l auth
ority
and c
onso
rtia. S
low F
ood
often
prov
ided m
ediat
ion, in
partic
ular w
ith th
e Lom
bard
y Reg
ional
Autho
rity, to
avoid
unhe
alable
rifts
with
the P
DO co
nsor
tia.
A ce
rtain
rigidi
ty re
mains
in th
e pos
itions
of th
e Pr
esidi
um an
d the
PDO
cons
ortiu
m. H
owev
er, it
was a
triu
mph f
or th
e Pre
sidium
whe
n it w
as de
cided
that
Heri-
tage B
itto C
onso
rtium
could
be th
e sec
ond c
onso
rtium
in the
PDO
. This
mea
ns th
ey ca
n inte
ract
direc
tly w
ith th
e co
ntrol
agen
cies w
ithou
t any
obstr
uctio
n fro
m the
othe
r PD
O pr
oduc
ers.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
had n
o rela
tions
hip w
ith S
low
Food
. W
ith th
e cre
ation
of th
e Pre
sidium
, Slow
Foo
d ove
rsaw
the
prod
ucer
s both
loca
lly an
d fro
m its
natio
nal o
ffice,
partic
ipatin
g in
meeti
ngs a
nd or
ganiz
ing ev
ents
for th
em, a
s well
as or
ches
tratin
g ma
ny co
mmun
icatio
n acti
vities
.
The p
rodu
cers
are n
ow m
embe
rs of
the S
low F
ood a
s-so
ciatio
n and
take
part
in the
activ
ities o
rgan
ized l
ocall
y by
Slow
Foo
d (ma
rkets,
even
ts, di
nner
s).
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
rati-
ficati
on as
a re
sult?
Ha
s the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
The v
alue o
f the p
rodu
cers’
wor
k was
not p
artic
ularly
reco
gnize
d ou
tside
their
loca
l are
a, an
d the
y wer
e not
very
awar
e of th
eir ro
le an
d imp
ortan
ce. T
heir s
trugg
le wa
s not
wide
ly kn
own a
nd ha
d only
loc
al re
levan
ce.
Than
ks to
the P
resid
ium, th
e pro
duce
rs sta
rted t
o par
ticipa
te in
even
ts, to
mee
t othe
r che
esem
aker
s and
to w
elcom
e visi
ts fro
m co
nsum
ers,
enthu
siasts
and j
ourn
alists
. Awa
rene
ss of
their
value
gr
ew co
nside
rably
.
The p
rodu
cers
have
beco
me w
ell-kn
own i
n qua
lity fo
od
circle
s, an
d the
y are
also
the s
ymbo
l of th
e Res
isten
za
Case
aria
(chee
se re
sistan
ce) c
ampa
ign.
Know
ledge
tran
smiss
ionAr
e the
re ho
rizon
tal
(betw
een P
re-
sidium
prod
ucer
s) an
d ver
tical
(betw
een
Pres
idium
prod
ucer
s an
d the
comm
unity
) for
ms of
know
ledge
tra
nsmi
ssion
? How
is
know
ledge
tran
smit-
ted (a
t eve
nts an
d co
nfere
nces
, eve
ry da
y)? H
as th
e gro
up
expa
nded
? Are
they
ne
twor
ked w
ith ot
her
grou
ps?
The p
rodu
cers
pass
ed on
their
know
ledge
to ne
w ge
nera
tions
durin
g the
ir eve
ryday
activ
ities.
Slow
Foo
d fur
ther p
ublic
ized t
he ch
eese
and t
he kn
owled
ge lin
ked
to its
prod
uctio
n bey
ond t
he lo
cal a
rea.
Th
e netw
ork o
f pro
duce
rs is
conn
ected
to th
e netw
ork
of Pr
esidi
a pro
duce
rs, an
d the
ir stor
y has
beco
me a
refer
ence
point
and a
n exa
mple
for m
any o
ther P
resid
ia an
d othe
r pro
duce
rs.
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivi-
ties?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
did no
t par
ticipa
te in
or or
ganiz
e thi
s typ
e of a
ctivit
y.
Slow
Foo
d wor
ked h
ard t
o mak
e sur
e tha
t the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
-er
s bec
ame a
chan
nel fo
r edu
catio
n and
train
ing, a
s well
as th
e sy
mbol
of a b
attle
for qu
ality
and i
denti
ty. S
low F
ood fi
lmed
a do
cume
ntary
abou
t their
expe
rienc
e, wh
ich he
lped t
o pub
licize
the
ir situ
ation
furth
er an
d dev
elop S
low F
ood’s
educ
ation
al ac
tivi-
ties i
n gen
eral.
Than
ks to
the P
resid
ium, th
e coo
rdina
tor an
d the
pro-
duce
rs sti
ll hav
e man
y opp
ortun
ities t
o mee
t and
dire
ctly
comm
unica
te wi
th Sl
ow F
ood m
embe
rs, ot
her p
rodu
cers
and c
onsu
mers
in ge
nera
l, thr
ough
partic
ipatio
n in T
aste
Wor
ksho
ps, fa
irs, T
V int
ervie
ws an
d in o
ther m
edia.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
42
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, ther
e wer
e 16 p
rodu
cers,
thou
gh th
ere a
re 22
mo
untai
n dair
ies in
the h
istor
ic Bi
tto va
lleys
.
The a
ssoc
iation
of pr
oduc
ers a
nd la
ter th
e con
sortiu
m of
Pres
idium
pr
oduc
ers t
ried t
o inv
olve o
ther p
rodu
cers
from
the hi
storic
zone
s, bu
t the p
rodu
cers
were
unwi
lling t
o foll
ow th
e tra
dition
al pr
oduc
tion
rules
, whic
h req
uire m
ore w
ork a
nd tim
e. Ot
her m
ounta
in da
iries
which
could
have
been
usefu
l for t
he P
resid
ium w
ere o
ccup
ied by
liv
estoc
k bein
g rais
ed fo
r mea
t or b
y pro
duce
rs wh
o wer
e not
local
to the
area
and h
ad di
ffere
nt pr
oduc
tion t
echn
iques
.
Ther
e are
now
14 pr
oduc
ers u
nited
in th
e Pre
sidium
. Th
e othe
r two
have
mov
ed aw
ay fr
om th
e Pre
sidium
be
caus
e the
y wer
e no l
onge
r willi
ng to
follo
w the
stric
t ru
les di
ctated
by th
e Bitto
trad
ition.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
sid-
ium do
to pr
otect
the
local
ecos
ystem
? (e.g
. pr
omoti
ng bi
odive
rsity
in ge
nera
l, allo
w-ing
the r
ecov
ery o
f pa
sture
s and
mar
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
Even
prior
to th
e lau
nch o
f the p
rojec
t, the
prod
ucer
s’ ac
tivity
was
aim
ed at
pres
ervin
g the
mou
ntain
ecos
ystem
, eve
n tho
ugh t
his w
as
some
times
unco
nscio
us.
The d
ispute
s of r
ecen
t yea
rs an
d the
diffic
ulties
with
the P
DO
cons
ortiu
m ha
ve le
d the
prod
ucer
s to r
eflec
t eve
n fur
ther o
n the
va
lue of
their
pres
ence
in th
e are
a. Th
e mee
tings
to dr
aft th
e pr
otoco
l help
ed th
em to
fully
unde
rstan
d the
value
of pr
eser
ving
the O
robic
a goa
t bre
ed an
d othe
r asp
ects
of the
ir wor
k. Th
ey ar
e the
only
ones
to us
e the
goats
’ milk
to m
ake B
itto.
The p
rodu
cers
follow
a str
ict pr
otoco
l that
spec
ifies t
he
pres
erva
tion o
f a go
at br
eed a
t risk
of ex
tincti
on, th
e se
ason
al mi
grati
on of
lives
tock a
nd ro
tated
mou
ntain
pastu
res.
The l
eftov
er w
hey f
rom
the ch
eese
mak-
ing is
used
to m
ake a
nothe
r tra
dition
al da
iry pr
oduc
t, Ma
sche
rpa,
a rico
tta ty
pical
of the
Italia
n and
Swi
ss
Alps
. The
prod
ucer
s also
colla
bora
te wi
th oth
er P
resid
ia an
d pro
duce
rs fro
m the
Ber
gamo
Alps
to pr
omote
ec
ologic
al Al
pine t
ouris
m.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
Prod
uctio
n tak
es pl
ace i
n mou
ntain
pastu
res a
nd th
e wate
r use
d co
mes f
rom
sprin
gs.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col s
pecifi
es th
e con
tinua
tion o
f this
prac
tice.
They
conti
nue t
o use
only
the w
ater n
eces
sary
to wa
sh
the pr
oduc
tion t
ools,
draw
ing it
from
moun
tain s
pring
s.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
Most
of the
prod
ucer
s pro
cess
ed th
e fre
sh m
ilk by
heati
ng it
in co
pper
ke
ttles o
ver a
fire f
ueled
by w
ood c
ollec
ted in
the m
ounta
ins.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col s
pecifi
es th
e con
tinua
tion o
f this
prac
tice.
Most
of the
prod
ucer
s pro
cess
the f
resh
milk
by he
ating
it i
n cop
per k
ettles
over
a fire
fuele
d by w
ood c
ollec
ted in
the
mou
ntains
. Se
ed ac
quisi
tion
How
are s
eeds
ac
quire
d? A
re th
ey
boug
ht or
repr
o-du
ced?
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
The c
ows a
nd go
ats gr
azed
free
ly in
the m
ounta
in pa
sture
s all s
um-
mer. I
n the
wint
er th
ey w
ere k
ept in
door
s, fol
lowing
the l
egisl
ative
re
gulat
ions f
or an
imal
welfa
re.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col s
pecifi
es th
e con
tinua
tion o
f this
prac
tice.
The c
ows a
nd go
ats gr
aze f
reely
in th
e mou
ntain
mead
-ow
s all s
umme
r. In t
he w
inter
they
are k
ept in
door
s, fol
lowing
the l
egisl
ative
regu
lation
s for
anim
al we
lfare
.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
The a
nimals
wer
e not
fed si
lage o
r GMO
feed
, only
fora
ge in
the
summ
er, ha
y in t
he w
inter
and s
ome s
upple
menta
ry ce
reals
. Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l spe
cifies
the c
ontin
uatio
n of th
is pr
actic
e. Th
e pro
duce
rs’ pr
otoco
l form
ally e
stabli
shes
that
the
anim
als m
ust n
ot be
fed s
ilage
or G
MO fe
ed, o
nly fo
rage
in
the su
mmer,
hay i
n the
wint
er an
d som
e sup
pleme
n-tar
y cer
eals.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
43
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Yes,
the te
chniq
ue ha
s alw
ays b
een a
rtisan
al.
Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l spe
cifies
the c
ontin
uatio
n of th
is pr
actic
e. Ye
s, the
prod
uctio
n tec
hniqu
e spe
cified
by th
e pro
tocol
is tra
dition
al an
d artis
anal.
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
Yes,
the ag
ing to
ok pl
ace i
n natu
ral e
nviro
nmen
ts ow
ned b
y exte
rnal
affine
urs.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged t
he P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers t
o tak
e ove
r the
ch
eese
aging
(whic
h can
take
up to
10 ye
ars)
thems
elves
, brin
ging
grea
ter pr
ofits
and a
utono
my.
The a
ging i
s now
done
colle
ctive
ly in
a natu
ral a
ging
facilit
y run
by th
e pro
duce
rs’ co
nsor
tium
in Ge
rola
Alta.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
ther
e wer
e only
a few
guide
lines
in th
e stat
ute
of the
prod
ucer
s’ as
socia
tion.
Me
eting
s wer
e held
with
the p
rodu
cers
to en
cour
age t
hem
to dr
aft
and s
hare
a sin
gle do
cume
nt tha
t reg
ulated
all th
e pro
ducti
on
steps
.
All th
e pro
duce
rs ha
ve si
gned
the p
rotoc
ol.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pa
ckag
ing? I
s it e
co-
susta
inable
? Are
the
prod
uct’s
char
acter
is-tic
s pro
perly
desc
ribed
on
the l
abel?
The c
hees
e was
sold
witho
ut pa
ckag
ing, o
nly la
beled
with
the P
DO
label.
The
asso
ciatio
n’s lo
go w
as br
ande
d on t
he fo
rms.
Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l spe
cified
the c
ontin
uatio
n of th
is pr
actic
e, un
til the
bran
ding w
as bl
ocke
d by t
he m
inistr
y.
The p
rodu
cers
sell t
he ch
eese
s who
le, w
ithou
t pac
kag-
ing, b
ut wh
en th
ey ar
e ship
ped i
n piec
es, s
ometi
mes
they m
ust b
e vac
uum-
pack
ed. T
he P
resid
ium ca
n now
us
e the
PDO
labe
l and
the c
hees
es ar
e bra
nded
with
the
name
of th
e mou
ntain
pastu
re.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
i-
44
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
The p
rodu
cers
sold
mostl
y to t
rade
rs, an
d a ve
ry sm
all am
ount
was s
old di
rectl
y to c
onsu
mers
from
the da
iry. T
here
wer
e var
ious
inter
media
ries.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged d
irect
purch
ase f
rom
the pr
oduc
ers a
nd
their p
artic
ipatio
n in f
airs a
nd m
arke
ts.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers s
till se
ll a sm
all am
ount
of ch
eese
dire
ctly f
rom
the da
iry. T
he m
ajority
of th
eir pr
o-du
ction
goes
to th
e coll
ectiv
e agin
g fac
ility,
of wh
ich th
ey
are t
he jo
int ow
ners.
The
chee
se is
then
sold
direc
tly at
fai
rs, pr
oduc
ers’
marke
ts an
d by m
ail or
der.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na
tiona
l or in
terna
-tio
nal?
The m
arke
t was
loca
l and
regio
nal.
Slow
Foo
d sup
porte
d the
deve
lopme
nt of
many
oppo
rtunit
ies fo
r se
lling t
he pr
oduc
t nati
onall
y and
inter
natio
nally
, brin
ging i
t wide
r fam
e.
The m
arke
t is m
ostly
natio
nal, a
s well
as lo
cal a
nd
inter
natio
nal.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up?
Is it p
rofita
ble fo
r the
pr
oduc
ers?
The s
elling
price
was
arou
nd 7
euro
s a ki
lo, af
ter th
e sum
mer p
astur
-ing
. Sl
ow F
ood u
sed i
ts co
mmun
icatio
n too
ls an
d infl
uenc
e to i
ncre
ase
the de
mand
for h
erita
ge B
itto, w
hich w
as so
ld at
a pro
fitable
price
to
cons
umer
s who
wer
e mor
e awa
re of
the n
eed t
o sup
port
small
-sc
ale pr
oduc
ers.
Bitto
Trad
ing cu
rrentl
y pay
s the
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s 16
euro
s a ki
lo for
their
chee
se at
the e
nd of
summ
er
pastu
ring.
In ad
dition
to th
is hig
her p
rice,
the pr
oduc
ers
also g
et a s
hare
of B
itto Tr
ading
’s pr
ofits
at the
end o
f the
year.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly
distrib
uted a
nd do
the
y actu
ally r
each
the
hand
s of in
dividu
al pr
oduc
ers?
(NB
only
in ca
ses w
here
ther
e is
an as
socia
tion)
Befor
e the
laun
ch of
the P
resid
ium, th
e pro
duce
rs au
tonom
ously
sold
the fo
rms t
o tra
ders
and a
ffineu
rs at
the en
d of th
e sum
mer.
The P
resid
ium en
cour
aged
the p
rodu
cers
to pa
rticipa
te mo
re
direc
tly in
the p
roce
ss of
aging
and s
elling
the c
hees
e.
Now
the pr
oduc
ers s
ell th
e majo
rity of
their
chee
se
colle
ctive
ly thr
ough
Bitto
Trad
ing. T
he sm
all re
maind
er
is sti
ll sold
auton
omou
sly. A
t the e
nd of
the y
ear, B
itto
Trad
ing sh
ares
its pr
ofits
with
the pr
oduc
ers.
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pr
oduc
tion s
ince t
he
estab
lishm
ent o
f the
Pres
idium
? Ind
icate
the in
itial a
nd cu
rrent
quan
tities
. If th
ere h
as
not b
een a
n inc
reas
e, is
it con
sider
ed a
restr
iction
?
In 20
03, a
nnua
l pro
ducti
on w
as ar
ound
2,50
0 whe
els (2
5,000
kilos
).
The P
resid
ium’s
outpu
t is no
w se
lected
base
d on t
he
final
quali
ty of
the ch
eese
. Bitto
Trad
ing w
ill no
t buy
the
chee
se if
it doe
s not
confo
rm to
certa
in qu
ality
stand
ards
. Bec
ause
of th
is, on
ly ar
ound
1,50
0 whe
els of
Pr
esidi
um B
itto ar
e rele
ased
on th
e mar
ket e
ach y
ear.
CAMB
IATO
LEGG
ERME
NTE,
ANC
ORA
GIUS
TO?
Bitto
Trad
ing al
so se
lls th
e othe
r che
eses
mad
e by t
he
Pres
idium
prod
ucer
s, Ma
sche
rpa a
nd V
altell
ina C
aser
a (th
e ver
sion o
f Bitto
mad
e in t
he w
inter
).
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
45
Italy (Sicily) - Salina CaperThe caper perennial shrub, probably originally brought from tropical regions, has been part of Mediterranean life since time immemorial. There are references to its use as food and medicament in the Bible, in the works of Hippocrates, Aristotle and Pliny the Elder. In Italy, caper is cultivated on a total area of 1000 hectares, in Liguria, Puglia, Campania and on the Italian islands. The island of Salina, to the north of Sicilian coasts, has become the center of Italian quality capers production. Caper bushes are part of the landscape and, until the advent of tourism, capers represented the cornerstone of the island’s economy. Harvesting takes place from the end of May until the end of August, every 8-10 days. Pickers start working at 5 in the morning, in order to avoid the burning sun. Capers are then left to dry on jute cloths in a cool place, to prevent them from opening. After few hours, small capers are separated from big buds, which are about to open. They are then salted (placing them in layers alternated with coarse salt) in containers (cugniettu) which are also used for anchovies, or in “tined-de”, old wooden barrels cut in half. During the following four of five days, capers must be transferred from one tinedda to another, to prevent the combined action of salt and heat (from fermentation) from ruining them. After about one month, they are ready for consumption. Since the 80’, the island’s capers production has significantly decreased. There are several re-asons for this: competition from cheaper North African products, the impossibility of using machines for the cultivation, the high costs of manpower and new, previously unknown parasites. Salina capers are known for their firmness, fragrance and uniformity. The first feature is particularly important, as a firm bud can last for a very long time (salted capers of this island can be stored for up to two or three years). Another important characteristic is the almost complete absence of insecticides or chemical fertilizers, in order to guarantee the healthiness of the product. Capers are used as an ingredient to spice up many traditional Sicilian dishes, from a tomato and basil sauce to the classic “caponata”, or in fish dishes.The difficult cultivation and the high costs of production, particularly the ones related to harvesting, caused a strong crisis within capers industry. As harvesting operations cannot be mechanized, capers are still picked by hand, which is particu-larly hard because of the peculiar shape of the shrub. The rustic nature of this species, its frequent but impractical distri-bution and also the scarcity of specific infrastructures all concur in endangering this product, despite its unquestionable quality. Only a work of promotion and collaboration with all the producers, who are often depending on few, mixed plants, can revive a product which best represents this extraordinary land, with its culture, traditions and landscapes.
46
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ul-tur
al lin
k with
the
local
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
The c
aper
plan
t is on
e of th
e sym
bols
of the
islan
d of S
alina
, an
integ
ral p
art o
f the l
ands
cape
and a
clas
sic in
gred
ient in
the l
ocal
cuisi
ne. T
he pe
renn
ial sh
rub i
s typ
ical o
f Med
iterra
nean
vege
tation
, an
d its
edibl
e par
ts ha
ve lo
ng be
en us
ed in
the k
itche
n. Be
fore t
he
Pres
idium
star
ted, th
e tra
dition
al cu
ltivati
on of
cape
rs wa
s bein
g gr
adua
lly ab
ando
ned:
the pr
oduc
t’s m
arke
t valu
e was
not m
eetin
g the
high
labo
r cos
ts an
d imp
orts
of ca
pers
from
North
Afric
a wer
e inc
reas
ingly
meeti
ng de
mand
. The
spre
ad of
a pa
rasit
e fur
ther
redu
ced p
rodu
ction
. The
old c
ultiva
tion a
nd pr
eser
vatio
n tec
hniqu
es
were
at ris
k of b
eing l
ost. L
ittle a
ttenti
on w
as pa
id to
the se
lectio
n of
one v
ariet
y or a
nothe
r. The
prod
ucer
s wer
e not
orga
nized
in an
y wa
y and
only
a few
sold
their c
aper
s on t
he m
arke
t.
Slow
Foo
d held
a se
ries o
f mee
tings
with
the p
rodu
cers
and o
rga-
nized
visit
s fro
m an
agro
nomi
st to
enco
urag
e the
m to
safeg
uard
ca
per p
rodu
ction
and r
evive
cultiv
ation
. The
main
deba
te co
n-ce
rned
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col, w
hich w
as dr
awn u
p dire
ctly w
ith
the pr
oduc
ers.
The p
rotoc
ol de
fines
the v
ariet
y pro
tected
by th
e Pr
esidi
um, th
e nati
ve “n
ocell
ara,”
whic
h has
firme
r and
heav
ier
buds
than
the “
spino
sa” c
aper
s typ
ical o
f the i
sland
of P
antel
leria.
Curre
ntly a
grou
p of s
ix pr
oduc
ers g
row
and p
roce
ss
the ca
pers.
Som
e of th
em al
so bu
y cap
ers f
rom
other
gr
ower
s on t
he is
land.
The c
aper
Pre
sidium
has e
n-co
urag
ed to
urism
, forg
ing lin
ks be
twee
n loc
al foo
d tra
-dit
ions a
nd th
e lan
dsca
pe. T
he lo
cal “n
ocell
ara”
varie
ty is
now
more
high
ly va
lued.
Salin
a has
beco
me fu
rther
co
nfirm
ed as
a tou
rist d
estin
ation
and a
n agr
icultu
ral
islan
d, no
t only
for it
s alre
ady-r
enow
ned w
ine in
dustr
y, bu
t also
than
ks to
the r
ole pl
ayed
by ca
per c
ultiva
tion
in loc
al de
velop
ment.
Som
e cap
er fie
lds st
ill ne
ed to
be
salva
ged a
nd so
me sm
all-sc
ale pr
oduc
ers c
ould
be
more
dire
ctly i
nvolv
ed in
the p
rojec
t.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the o
nly ev
ent in
whic
h the
pro-
duce
rs pa
rticipa
ted w
as th
e loc
al ca
per f
estiv
al, w
hich i
s still
held
in the
first
week
of Ju
ne at
Poll
ara-
Malfa
, on t
he is
land.
Involv
emen
t in ev
ents
like S
alina
Isola
Slow
, Salo
ne de
l Gus
to,
Slow
Fish
, Ter
ra M
adre
and o
thers
orga
nized
by th
e nati
onal
and
regio
nal S
low F
ood n
etwor
k. So
me pr
oduc
ers a
lso to
ok pa
rt in
the na
tiona
l ass
embly
of P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers h
eld in
2005
in
Tinda
ri, Si
cily.
They
conti
nue t
o be i
nvolv
ed in
even
ts, m
ostly
or
ganiz
ed by
Slow
Foo
d. Th
e pro
duce
rs ha
ve ac
quire
d a g
reate
r fam
iliarity
with
the n
ation
al ma
rket, b
uildin
g up
a ne
twor
k of c
ontac
ts an
d lea
rning
the b
est w
ay to
pr
esen
t their
prod
uct.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Ther
e was
no fo
rm of
orga
nizati
on.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged d
iscus
sion t
o ide
ntify
whe
ther a
simp
le as
socia
tion o
r a co
nsor
tium
was b
est s
uited
to th
e Pre
sidium
: the
latte
r wou
ld inv
olve c
ollec
tive s
ales o
f the p
rodu
ct an
d high
er
mana
geme
nt co
sts.
At th
e mom
ent th
e pro
duce
rs ar
e still
wor
king o
n set-
ting u
p an a
ssoc
iation
, with
the a
im of
bette
r org
anizi
ng
their p
rese
nce o
n the
mar
ket.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Be
fore t
he st
art o
f the P
resid
ium, e
ach p
rodu
cer w
orke
d on t
heir
own.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged a
nd or
ganiz
ed a
serie
s of m
eetin
gs w
ith
the pr
oduc
ers s
o tha
t they
could
colle
ctive
ly dis
cuss
the i
ssue
s re
lating
to th
e dev
elopm
ent o
f the P
resid
ium.
Than
ks to
Slow
Foo
d’s co
ordin
ation
, all t
he pr
oduc
ers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te in
the lif
e of th
e Pre
sidium
. The
y tak
e dec
ision
s tog
ether
abou
t the p
rotoc
ol an
d pro
duct
sales
and t
ake t
urns
partic
ipatin
g in c
onfer
ence
s and
ev
ents.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
re-
sidium
invo
lve yo
ung
peop
le? In
wha
t way
?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
ther
e wer
e no y
oung
cape
r pr
oduc
ers.
Slow
Foo
d rec
ently
laun
ched
a ca
mpaig
n to p
ersu
ade y
oung
pe
ople
to sta
y in t
he co
untry
side a
nd co
nside
r a fu
ture i
n agr
icul-
ture,
throu
gh ar
ticles
in its
mag
azine
s and
in ot
her p
ublic
ation
s an
d mee
tings
for y
oung
peop
le at
its ev
ents
(youth
confe
renc
e at
Salon
e del
Gusto
2010
, wor
ksho
p at C
hees
e 201
1). A
n inte
rview
-ba
sed r
esea
rch st
udy w
as in
itiated
, inve
stiga
ting t
he yo
ung
peop
le wo
rking
in ag
ricult
ure i
n the
Pre
sidia.
Curre
ntly t
wo yo
ung p
eople
are h
elping
their
relat
ives
with
the ca
per g
rowi
ng. A
dditio
nally
, one
of th
e pro
duc-
ers h
as hi
red a
youn
g agr
onom
ist to
over
see t
heir
cape
r field
s. In
2012
, they
will
be in
volve
d Slow
Foo
d’s
rese
arch
on yo
ung p
eople
and t
he re
sults
will
be co
m-mu
nicate
d at S
alone
2012
.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
were
not o
rgan
ized
into a
ny ki
nd of
asso
ciatio
n, so
ther
e was
no di
stribu
tion o
f pow
er.
Slow
Foo
d ask
ed th
e pro
duce
rs to
demo
cratic
ally c
hoos
e a co
or-
dinato
r who
wou
ld re
pres
ent th
em an
d bec
ome t
he in
terme
diary
betw
een t
he gr
oup a
nd th
e nati
onal
and l
ocal
bran
ches
of S
low
Food
.
Salva
tore D
’Ami
co, a
prod
ucer,
is th
e cur
rent
coor
dina-
tor fo
r the
Pre
sidium
cape
r gro
wers.
He c
oord
inates
pa
rticipa
tion i
n eve
nts an
d man
ages
the i
ntern
et-or
-de
rs for
cape
rs an
d req
uests
that
come
thro
ugh S
low
Food
guide
s, ma
king s
ure t
hat th
ey ar
e divi
ded f
airly
betw
een a
ll the
prod
ucer
s.
47
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
ere n
o mee
tings
betw
een a
ll the
prod
ucer
s, on
ly frie
ndsh
ips an
d othe
r per
sona
l relat
ionsh
ips.
Slow
Foo
d ask
ed th
at the
grou
p of p
rodu
cers
meet
regu
larly
and
forma
lly, e
ncou
ragin
g the
m to
discu
ss P
resid
ium is
sues
and t
o ma
nage
shar
ed pr
oblem
s.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers m
eet to
plan
their
partic
ipa-
tion i
n loc
al, re
giona
l and
natio
nal e
vents
. Thr
ough
out
the ye
ar, tr
aining
mee
tings
are h
eld w
ith ex
perts
and
agro
nomi
sts fr
om th
e Slow
Foo
d Fou
ndati
on fo
r Biod
i-ve
rsity
netw
ork a
nd th
e loc
al Sl
ow F
ood c
onviv
ium.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
as no
kind
of re
lation
ship
with
local
institu
tions
. Th
e pro
duce
rs inv
olved
loca
l insti
tution
s in t
heir p
romo
tion a
ctivi-
ties.
With
the s
uppo
rt of
local
institu
tions
, Slow
Foo
d cre
ated a
ne
w ev
ent (
Salin
a Iso
la Sl
ow) a
nd en
cour
aged
the p
ublic
ation
of
many
artic
les on
the c
aper
s and
the i
sland
.
Quali
ty tou
rism
to the
islan
d has
incre
ased
. The
loca
l, re
giona
l and
prov
incial
admi
nistra
tions
prov
ide fu
nding
for
even
ts an
d con
feren
ces t
hat in
volve
the S
low F
ood
Pres
idium
prod
ucer
s, inc
luding
the P
resid
ium’s
stand
at
the S
alone
del G
usto.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e pro
duce
rs did
not b
elong
to th
e Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
k.
Slow
Foo
d org
anize
d var
ious m
eetin
gs to
intro
duce
the n
ation
al an
d reg
ional
asso
ciatio
n and
the l
ocal
conv
ivium
to th
e pro
duc-
ers.
The P
resid
ium is
conn
ected
to bo
th the
loca
l and
na
tiona
l Slow
Foo
d netw
ork.
Than
ks to
partic
ipatio
n at
the in
terna
tiona
l Slow
Foo
d eve
nts S
alone
del
Gusto
and T
erra
Mad
re, th
e pro
duce
rs ha
ve co
me in
to co
ntact
with
prod
ucer
s fro
m ar
ound
the w
orld
from
the
Terra
Mad
re ne
twor
k of fo
od co
mmun
ities,
as w
ell as
the
inter
natio
nal S
low F
ood a
ssoc
iation
.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
ratifi
ca-
tion a
s a re
sult?
Has
the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e imp
ortan
ce of
cultiv
ating
the
cape
rs wa
s not
reco
gnize
d.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y eve
nts (f
airs,
confe
renc
es, m
ar-
kets,
etc.)
. The
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l pre
ss de
dicate
d muc
h att
entio
n to t
hem
and S
low F
ood p
ublis
hed m
any a
rticles
, whic
h en
cour
aged
mor
e med
ia re
ports
.
Slow
Foo
d inc
reas
ed th
e ind
ividu
al gr
atific
ation
of pr
o-du
cers,
who
are n
ow aw
are o
f the i
mpor
tance
of th
eir
work
and t
heir p
rotec
tion o
f the l
ocal
envir
onme
nt.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers)
and
vertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Know
ledge
was
pass
ed on
with
in fam
ilies o
r to s
easo
nal w
orke
rs wh
o wer
e sup
pleme
nting
their
inco
mes b
y pick
ing ca
pers.
Kn
owled
ge w
as sh
ared
at m
eetin
gs be
twee
n the
prod
ucer
s. Th
roug
h artic
les, p
ress
repo
rts, e
vents
and c
onfer
ence
s, Sl
ow
Food
brou
ght k
nowl
edge
abou
t the p
rodu
ct, its
quali
ty an
d the
im
porta
nce o
f cap
er gr
owing
on th
e isla
nd to
a wi
der p
ublic
.
In ad
dition
to pa
ssing
on tr
aditio
nal k
nowl
edge
abou
t pr
oduc
tion w
ithin
their f
amilie
s or t
o sea
sona
l wor
kers,
the
prod
ucer
s are
now
also a
ware
that
they a
re th
e cu
stodia
ns of
a sh
ared
herita
ge. T
he pr
oduc
ers h
ave
had m
any o
ppor
tunitie
s to i
nform
cons
umer
s abo
ut the
diffe
renc
e betw
een g
ener
ic an
d Sici
lian c
aper
s an
d abo
ut the
value
of ca
per g
rowi
ng to
the i
sland
’s ag
ricult
ure a
nd en
viron
ment.
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
-tic
ipate
in ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
ere n
o edu
catio
nal a
ctivit
ies.
Salva
tore D
’Ami
co, th
e coo
rdina
tor fo
r the
prod
ucer
s, re
gular
ly lea
ds Ta
ste W
orks
hops
in w
hich h
e des
cribe
s the
prod
uctio
n pr
oces
s and
quali
ty of
the S
alina
cape
rs. E
very
year,
the p
rodu
c-er
s hos
t stud
ents
from
the U
niver
sity o
f Gas
trono
mic S
cienc
es in
Po
llenz
o, wh
o visi
t the i
sland
for s
tudy t
rips.
The p
rodu
cers
have
beco
me an
impo
rtant
sour
ce of
kn
owled
ge fo
r stud
ents
and c
onsu
mers.
The
Pre
sidium
re
gular
ly or
ganiz
es ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities w
ith th
e UN
ISG
unive
rsity
and d
uring
man
y eve
nts.
48
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
ere d
ozen
s of s
mall-s
cale
har-
veste
rs wh
o pick
ed ca
pers
on a
part-
time b
asis.
The
cape
rs we
re
eithe
r sold
to S
icilia
n tra
ders
or un
officia
lly (u
nder
grou
nd ec
onom
y).
With
the l
aunc
h of th
e Pre
sidium
, som
e pro
duce
rs de
cided
to
dedic
ate th
emse
lves i
n ear
nest
to gr
owing
, pro
cess
ing an
d se
lling c
aper
s. Th
e pro
ject in
itially
star
ted w
ith th
ree f
amilie
s, an
d thr
ough
a se
ries o
f mee
tings
bega
n inv
olving
new
prod
ucer
s. Ev
eryo
ne w
ho jo
ins th
e Pre
sidium
mus
t com
mit to
follo
wing
a str
ict pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol.
Curre
ntly s
ix fam
ilies o
f pro
duce
rs be
long t
o the
Pr
esidi
um. T
he P
rodu
ctio
n Are
a for
the c
aper
s is t
he
islan
d of S
alina
. The
aim
is to
bring
in ot
her s
mall-
scale
pick
ers i
ntere
sted i
n sup
pleme
nting
their
inco
me.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
o-div
ersit
y in g
ener
al,
allow
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
ar-
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
The S
alina
cape
r pick
ers k
ept th
e dry-
stone
wall
s in a
good
cond
i-tio
n and
kept
their l
and i
n ord
er.
Durin
g var
ious m
eetin
gs, th
e Pre
sidium
insp
ired r
eflec
tion o
n the
im
porta
nce o
f trad
itiona
l agr
icultu
ral p
racti
ces i
n pro
tectin
g the
loc
al en
viron
ment.
The s
urfac
e are
a plan
ted w
ith ca
pers
has i
ncre
ased
, re
ducin
g soil
eros
ion. T
erra
cing h
as be
en re
store
d.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
No irr
igatio
n is n
eces
sary
and t
he qu
antity
of w
ater u
sed f
or
proc
essin
g is m
argin
al.
No sp
ecific
actio
n, as
chan
ges w
ere n
ot ne
cess
ary.
It is n
ot ne
cess
ary t
o reg
ulate
the us
e of w
ater.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?Ch
emica
l fertil
izers
were
not u
sed.
Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
he co
ntinu
ation
of tr
aditio
nal p
racti
ces a
nd
did no
t allo
w the
use o
f che
mica
l fertil
izers.
No
ne of
the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers c
an us
e che
mica
l fer
tilize
rs.
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?Or
ganic
fertil
izers
were
not u
sed.
Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
he co
ntinu
ation
of tr
aditio
nal p
racti
ces a
nd
allow
ed th
e use
of or
ganic
fertil
izers.
If n
eces
sary,
the p
rodu
cers
can u
se or
ganic
fertil
izers.
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
trea
tmen
ts we
re us
ed.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
trad
itiona
l pra
ctice
s and
did
not a
llow
the us
e of tr
eatm
ents.
No
ne of
the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers c
an us
e che
mica
l tre
atmen
ts. To
deal
with
the fly
that,
at a
certa
in po
int
in the
seas
on, la
ys its
eggs
in th
e bud
s and
spoil
s the
ca
pers,
the g
rowe
rs su
spen
d the
harve
st.
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
No ty
pe of
ener
gy w
as ne
eded
(neit
her f
ossil
fuel-
base
d nor
rene
w-ab
le).
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
trad
itiona
l pra
ctice
s and
did
not a
llow
mech
anize
d har
vesti
ng, w
hich i
n any
case
wou
ld be
im
poss
ible g
iven t
he ch
arac
terist
ics of
the t
erra
in an
d the
shru
bs.
No en
ergy
is us
ed.
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
Trad
itiona
lly th
e plan
t was
prop
agate
d ase
xuall
y, us
ing cu
ttings
.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
the t
radit
ional
prac
tice
of pr
opag
ation
using
cuttin
gs.
All th
e pro
duce
rs us
e cutt
ings f
or pr
opag
ation
.
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Rotat
ion w
as no
t pra
ctice
d. Th
e cap
er sh
rub l
ives f
or 20
to 30
year
s an
d as t
he pl
ants
age t
hey a
re gr
adua
lly re
place
d by n
ew pl
ants.
Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
he co
ntinu
ation
of tr
aditio
nal c
ultiva
tion
techn
iques
. Ro
tation
is no
t nec
essa
ry.
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Cape
rs we
re tr
aditio
nally
grow
n inte
rcrop
ped w
ith ol
ive tr
ees,
grap
evine
s and
fruit
tree
s.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
trad
itiona
l cult
ivatio
n tec
hniqu
es.
All th
e pro
duce
rs gr
ow th
e cap
ers i
ntercr
oppe
d with
oli
ve tr
ees,
grap
evine
s and
fruit
tree
s.
49
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
The o
nly pr
oces
sed p
rodu
ct us
ing ca
pers
was a
type
of pe
sto,
made
only
for ho
me us
e.
Slow
Foo
d enc
oura
ged t
he pr
oduc
ers t
o exp
erim
ent w
ith qu
ality
recip
es to
use c
aper
s tha
t wer
e too
larg
e and
did n
ot me
et Pr
esidi
um st
anda
rds.
A re
cipe h
as be
en id
entifi
ed fo
r the
prod
uctio
n of a
qu
ality,
artis
anal
pesto
.
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
Trad
itiona
lly th
e cap
ers w
ere p
rese
rved i
n sea
salt o
r in br
ine.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
trad
itiona
l pre
serva
tion
techn
iques
. Th
e pro
duce
rs us
e tra
dition
al pr
eser
vatio
n tec
hniqu
es.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
ere w
ere n
o spe
cifica
tions
. Du
ring a
serie
s of m
eetin
gs, th
e pro
duce
rs dr
afted
a pr
oduc
tion
proto
col w
ith th
e ass
istan
ce of
agro
nomy
expe
rts fr
om th
e Slow
Fo
od F
ound
ation
for B
iodive
rsity.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col is
sign
ed an
d app
lied b
y all
the pr
oduc
ers.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-su
stain-
able?
Are
the p
rod-
uct’s
char
acter
istics
pr
oper
ly de
scrib
ed on
the
labe
l?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e cap
ers w
ere s
old lo
ose.
Du
ring t
he m
eetin
gs to
draft
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col, t
he pr
oduc
-er
s cho
se so
me ty
pes o
f pac
kagin
g and
estab
lishe
d diffe
rent
price
s acc
ordin
g to t
he tr
aditio
nal g
rade
s.
Curre
ntly t
he P
resid
ium pa
ckag
es th
e cap
ers i
n littl
e pla
stic b
ags a
nd in
glas
s. Th
e lab
els co
ntain
the na
me
of the
busin
ess,
the gr
ade o
f the c
aper
s, the
expir
y da
te an
d the
ingr
edien
ts us
ed to
pres
erve
the c
aper
s. Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l defi
nes t
he gr
ades
, whic
h ha
ve tr
aditio
nal n
ames
: occ
hio di
pern
ice (d
iamete
r un
der 7
mm)
, lagr
imell
e (dia
meter
betw
een 7
and 8
mm
), pu
ntine
(diam
eter b
etwee
n 8 an
d 12 m
m), m
ez-
zani
(diam
eter b
etwee
n 12 a
nd 14
mm)
and c
appe
roni
(abo
ve 14
mm
in dia
meter
and c
lose t
o flow
ering
).
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
50
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e cap
ers w
ere s
old to
Sici
lian t
rad-
ers o
r on t
he sm
all lo
cal m
arke
t, mos
tly of
f the b
ooks
. Th
e Pre
sidium
has e
ncou
rage
d dire
ct sa
les, c
ommu
nicati
ng th
e pr
oduc
ers’
name
s on w
ebsit
es an
d thr
ough
artic
les an
d pub
lica-
tions
.
Dire
ct sa
les ac
coun
t for a
roun
d 50 p
erce
nt. T
he pr
o-du
cers
sell f
rom
their f
arms
, at lo
cal m
arke
ts, to
res-
taura
nts (5
perce
nt of
the pr
oduc
t goe
s to r
estau
rants
fro
m the
Allia
nce,
a Slow
Foo
d netw
ork t
hat u
nites
28
0 Ital
ian re
staur
ants)
, nati
onal
buyin
g gro
ups (
10
perce
nt) an
d the
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t (5 p
erce
nt). T
he
rema
inder
is so
ld to
trade
rs an
d dist
ribute
d to s
hops
an
d sup
erma
rkets
arou
nd Ita
ly.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na-
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e cap
ers w
ere s
old to
Sici
lian t
rad-
ers o
r on t
he sm
all lo
cal m
arke
t, mos
tly of
f the b
ooks
. Sl
ow F
ood p
romo
ted th
e Pre
sidium
prod
uct th
roug
h com
munic
a-tio
n to i
ts me
mber
s, on
its w
ebsit
e and
at ev
ents.
Th
e mar
ket is
now
local,
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up
? Is i
t pro
fitable
for
the pr
oduc
ers?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e sell
ing pr
ice w
as 4
euro
s a ki
lo.
The p
rice w
as no
t ver
y pro
fitable
for p
rodu
cers.
Slow
Foo
d’s co
mmun
icatio
n gen
erall
y ass
erted
the n
eed f
or
Pres
idia p
rodu
cts to
comm
and m
ore p
rofita
ble pr
ices,
in thi
s cas
e jus
tified
by th
e nee
d to g
row
the ca
pers
in dif
ficult
terra
in.
The c
urre
nt se
lling p
rices
depe
nd on
the g
rade
and
rang
e fro
m 6.5
0-7.5
0 eur
os pe
r kilo
for w
holes
ale an
d 10
-11 eu
ros p
er ki
lo for
retai
l.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)Pr
oduc
tion q
uanti
tyHa
s the
re be
en
an in
creas
e in
prod
uctio
n sinc
e the
es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pr
esidi
um? I
ndica
te the
initia
l and
curre
nt qu
antiti
es. If
ther
e has
no
t bee
n an i
ncre
ase,
is it c
onsid
ered
a re
strict
ion?
The t
otal q
uanti
ty of
cape
rs pr
oduc
ed on
Sali
na be
fore t
he P
re-
sidium
star
ted is
not k
nown
. Whe
n the
Pre
sidium
star
ted, th
e init
ial
three
prod
ucer
s wer
e pro
ducin
g 250
quint
als of
cape
rs.
The c
reati
on of
the P
resid
ium le
d to a
n inc
reas
e in d
eman
d and
the
need
to sa
tisfy
this d
eman
d by g
rowi
ng an
d har
vesti
ng m
ore
cape
rs.
By 20
11, th
ere w
ere s
ix pr
oduc
ers,
and t
otal p
rodu
c-tio
n is c
urre
ntly 8
50 qu
intals
.
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
51
Netherlands - Aged Artisanal GoudaThe town of Gouda became a central cheese market in the seventeenth century, and the first weighing rights were granted in 1668. Farmers and traders were obliged to weigh their cheeses here and taxes were imposed. Records from that time show that at least a million kilos of farmstead cheese were traded that year. In the nor-thern parts of the Netherlands, dairy cooperatives took over cheese production from individual farmers in the late 1800s. Fortunately, the Gouda cheesemakers resisted this trend, and traditional farmstead cheesemaking has persisted till today. Some 250 cheese makers in The Netherlands, most of them in the Gouda region, still produ-ce raw milk farmstead cheese (called boerenkaas). Their numbers are shrinking due to the expansion of urban areas, increased production costs, hygiene restrictions and the abundance of cheap pasteurized imitations. Boeren-Goudse Oplegkaas, as Aged Artisan Gouda is called in Dutch, is made from raw milk only during the summer season, when cows are grazed on the open pastures of the peat meadows or polders of the Green Hart region, between the cities of Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Utrecht. Boeren-Goudse Oplegkaas cheeses must age for at least two years but can age up to four years (opleg means ‘aged’ in Dutch). Like all Gouda, Boeren-Goudse Oplegkaas is a washed-curd cheese. Washing the curd removes part of the lactose, which reduces the possibility that acidity and bitterness build up in the aged forms. The cheesemaking starts with the warm milk of the mor-ning’s milking, which is mixed with a starter culture made on the farm. Authentic Boeren-Goudse Oplegkaas is peerless in taste, with a sweet mild flavor that blooms in the mouth, a well-structured aftertaste with a light acidity and the warm caramel taste that characterizes most Gouda. Its dense curd remains creamy and full even after it has been stored two or three years on wooden shelves.Production Area: Green Hart Region, between the cities of Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Utrecht
52
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ul-tur
al lin
k with
the
local
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
In the
17th
centu
ry, th
e Dutc
h tow
n of G
ouda
was
a str
ategic
hub
for th
e che
ese m
arke
t. The
first
taxes
impo
sed o
n far
mers
for th
e sa
le of
chee
ses (
calcu
lated
base
d on t
heir w
eight)
date
back
to
1668
, and
in 16
98 ov
er 1,
000 t
ons o
f farm
stead
chee
se w
ere s
old.
At th
e end
of th
e 19th
centu
ry, ch
eese
prod
uctio
n in n
orthe
rn H
ol-lan
d beg
an to
switc
h fro
m ind
ividu
al ch
eese
make
rs to
a ser
ies of
lar
ge da
iry co
oper
ative
s. Fo
rtuna
tely a
few
small
-scale
prod
ucer
s ma
nage
d to r
esist
, pre
servi
ng th
e tra
dition
al Go
uda.
The c
hees
e wa
s mad
e with
raw
milk
from
Holst
ein-F
riesia
n cow
s (a m
ilk co
w no
t to be
confu
sed w
ith th
e mor
e com
mon a
nd pr
oduc
tive F
rie-
sian)
and a
ged f
or at
leas
t a ye
ar in
trad
itiona
l woo
den m
olds l
ined
with
linen
. The
chee
se’s
survi
val w
as th
reate
ned b
y the
spre
ad of
ur
baniz
ation
and a
comb
inatio
n of o
ther f
actor
s: ris
ing pr
oduc
tion
costs
, the l
ow pr
ice of
chee
se an
d com
petiti
on fr
om in
dustr
ial
imita
tions
mad
e fro
m pa
steur
ized m
ilk. T
hese
wer
e muc
h che
aper
an
d inc
reas
ingly
easy
to fin
d on t
he na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal
marke
t. The
Gou
da th
at is
wide
ly dis
tribute
d inte
rnati
onall
y tod
ay
bear
s littl
e rela
tion t
o the
authe
ntic G
ouda
mad
e in t
he tr
aditio
nal
way,
which
uses
only
raw
cow’
s milk
and i
s age
d for
at le
ast o
ne
year.
A pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dra
wn up
, with
full p
artic
ipatio
n fro
m the
pr
oduc
ers,
to pr
eser
ve G
ouda
’s tra
dition
al pr
oduc
tion t
echn
ique.
A br
and w
as re
gister
ed to
help
prod
ucer
s pro
tect th
emse
lves f
rom
the im
itatio
ns fo
und o
n the
natio
nal m
arke
t. At th
e sam
e tim
e, the
pr
oduc
t was
prom
oted i
n the
Neth
erlan
ds an
d inte
rnati
onall
y, as
an
alter
nativ
e to t
he cu
rrent
marke
ting s
ystem
.
The p
romo
tion a
ctivit
ies fo
r the
prod
uct a
nd its
bran
d br
ough
t gre
ater v
isibil
ity to
the c
hees
e’s un
ique
char
acter
istics
. This
led t
o mor
e inte
rest
from
the
publi
c, an
d the
chee
se ha
s now
beco
me a
symb
ol of
small
-scale
raw-
milk
chee
sema
king i
n the
Neth
erlan
ds.
Addit
ionall
y, the
pastu
ring o
f the c
ows r
equir
ed by
the
proto
col h
as co
ntribu
ted to
pres
ervin
g the
land
scap
e of
peat
mead
ows (
polde
rs) in
the G
ouda
regio
n. W
ith th
e lau
nch o
f the P
resid
ium, c
onsu
mers
have
lear
ned t
o tel
l the d
iffere
nce b
etwee
n ind
ustria
l Gou
da an
d age
d, ar
tisan
al Go
uda.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Befor
e the
estab
lishm
ent o
f the P
resid
ium, th
e pro
duce
rs did
not
take p
art in
loca
l, nati
onal
or in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts an
d the
y did
not u
nder
stand
the i
mpor
tance
of sm
all-sc
ale, r
aw-m
ilk ch
eese
pr
oduc
tion.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers b
egan
to pa
rticipa
te in
inter
natio
nal
even
ts or
ganiz
ed by
Slow
Foo
d (Sa
lone d
el Gu
sto, T
erra
Mad
re,
Chee
se, e
tc.),
and d
uring
semi
nars
and c
onfer
ence
s the
y met
raw-
milk
chee
sema
kers
from
arou
nd th
e wor
ld.
Than
ks to
exch
ange
s with
othe
r che
esem
aker
s and
Pr
esidi
a, the
Gou
da pr
oduc
ers h
ave a
cquir
ed a
grea
ter
familia
rity w
ith th
e nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al ma
rket,
build
ing up
a ne
twor
k of c
ontac
ts an
d lea
rning
the b
est
way t
o mar
ket h
eir pr
oduc
t. The
Pre
sidium
has a
lso
had a
majo
r impa
ct on
the w
hole
secto
r of r
aw-m
ilk
chee
se pr
oduc
tion i
n the
Neth
erlan
ds.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
The p
rodu
cers
were
not in
conta
ct wi
th ea
ch ot
her.
Loca
l Slow
Foo
d coo
rdina
tors a
nd S
low F
ood F
ound
ation
expe
rts
bega
n wor
king w
ith so
me of
the p
rodu
cers
in the
Gou
da re
gion,
and t
he P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed.
A pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dr
awn u
p and
a br
and w
as re
gister
ed to
disti
nguis
h tra
dition
al Go
uda.
The p
rodu
cers
have
now
forme
d an a
ssoc
iation
and
have
sign
ed th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l, whic
h ena
bled t
he
prote
ction
of th
e tra
dition
al pr
oduc
tion t
echn
ique.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?No
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers t
ook p
art in
vario
us m
eetin
gs w
ith th
e loc
al co
ordin
ators
and S
low F
ood s
taff.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers m
eet r
egula
rly to
decid
e wh
at ac
tions
to ca
rry ou
t in re
gard
s to p
rodu
ction
and
prom
otion
of th
e pro
duct.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
re-
sidium
invo
lve yo
ung
peop
le? In
wha
t way
?
No, y
oung
peop
le did
not ta
ke pa
rt in
the G
ouda
prod
uctio
n pr
oces
s. So
me P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers s
tarted
invo
lving
their
child
ren i
n the
bu
sines
s. Th
e ass
ociat
ion of
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s coll
ectiv
ely
mana
ges t
he pr
omoti
on of
the G
ouda
, whil
e the
dire
ct sa
le of
the ch
eese
is or
ganiz
ed se
para
tely b
y pro
duc-
ers.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
The p
rodu
cers
were
not in
conta
ct wi
th ea
ch ot
her.
Follo
wing
the l
aunc
h of th
e Pre
sidium
the p
rodu
cers
met s
ever
al tim
es to
stre
ngthe
n the
ir coll
abor
ation
and m
ake c
ollec
tive d
eci-
sions
.
The a
ssoc
iation
of P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers c
ollec
tively
ma
nage
s the
prom
otion
of th
e Gou
da, w
hile t
he di
rect
sale
of the
chee
se is
orga
nized
sepa
ratel
y by p
rodu
c-er
s.
53
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
The p
rodu
cers
were
not in
conta
ct wi
th ea
ch ot
her.
The p
rodu
cers
met r
egula
rly an
d tha
nks t
o the
ir coll
abor
ation
a pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dra
wn up
that
pres
erve
s Gou
da’s
tradi-
tiona
l pro
ducti
on te
chniq
ue.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
es re
gular
mee
tings
for a
ll the
as
socia
tion’s
farm
ers.
New
prod
ucer
s can
be in
volve
d on
ly if t
hey a
gree
to fo
llow
the pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
NoTh
anks
to pa
rticipa
tion i
n loc
al ev
ents
and p
romo
tion o
f the
proje
ct, th
e Pre
sidium
deve
loped
conta
cts w
ith lo
cal a
ssoc
iation
s an
d ins
titutio
ns.
The P
resid
ium is
main
tainin
g and
stre
ngthe
ning
its go
od re
lation
ships
with
the l
ocal
autho
rities
. Its
prom
otion
activ
ities a
re br
inging
visib
ility n
ot on
ly to
the
prod
uct, b
ut als
o the
Gou
da an
d Gro
ene H
art a
reas
. Re
lation
ship
with
the
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork
Does
the P
resid
ium
have
a re
lation
ship
with
the lo
cal, n
ation
al an
d inte
rnati
onal
Slow
Fo
od ne
twor
k?
No, th
e Pre
sidium
was
not in
conta
ct wi
th the
Slow
Foo
d and
Terra
Ma
dre n
etwor
k. Th
e pro
duce
rs too
k par
t in va
rious
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al ev
ents
orga
nized
by S
low F
ood.
They
also
shar
ed S
low F
ood’s
co
mmitm
ent to
the c
ampa
ign to
prote
ct ra
w-mi
lk ch
eese
prod
uc-
tion.
The P
resid
ium be
longs
to th
e Slow
Foo
d netw
ork
and p
artic
ipates
in th
e acti
vities
of th
e thr
ee ne
ares
t co
nvivi
a (Gr
oene
Har
t, the
Hag
ue an
d Rott
erda
m).
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
ratifi
ca-
tion a
s a re
sult?
Has
the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
The m
ajority
of co
nsum
ers d
id no
t kno
w or
appr
eciat
e the
diffe
r-en
ce be
twee
n artis
anal
raw-
milk
Goud
a and
indu
strial
Gou
da.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y inte
rnati
onal
even
ts an
d the
na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal p
ress
dedic
ated m
uch a
ttenti
on to
them
. Th
e pro
duce
rs ar
e now
awar
e of th
e imp
ortan
ce of
their
wo
rk an
d its
conn
ectio
n to t
he pr
otecti
on of
their
loca
l ar
ea. A
dditio
nally
, the P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers a
re no
w na
tiona
l amb
assa
dors
for r
aw-m
ilk ch
eese
prod
uctio
n.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers)
and
vertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
The p
rodu
cers
worke
d on t
heir o
wn.
The p
rodu
cers
all ag
reed
to fo
llow
the pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol an
d beg
an to
colla
bora
te re
gular
ly. T
he pr
oduc
ers t
ook p
art in
ma
ny in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts, th
e nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al pr
ess
dedic
ated m
uch a
ttenti
on to
them
and a
rticles
and b
roch
ures
wer
e pu
blish
ed. T
he pr
oduc
ers s
poke
with
resta
urate
urs,
food e
xper
ts an
d sch
ools
regu
larly
abou
t their
wor
k.
Know
ledge
abou
t the a
rea a
nd th
e pro
duct
is sh
ared
am
ong p
rodu
cers
and t
he in
terna
tiona
l and
loca
l co
mmun
ity (S
low F
ood c
onviv
ia, co
oks,
journ
alists
, sc
hoolc
hildr
en. e
tc.).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
-tic
ipate
in ed
ucati
onal
activ
ities?
Visit
ors w
ould
occa
siona
lly co
me to
the d
airies
of th
e Gou
da
prod
ucer
s.
The p
rodu
cers,
helpe
d by t
he lo
cal S
low F
ood c
oord
inator
s, be
gan o
rgan
izing
guide
d tou
rs of
their d
airies
for f
ood p
rofes
sion-
als an
d loc
al sc
hools
.
Than
ks to
the P
resid
ium’s
activ
ities,
incre
asing
nu
mber
s of e
xper
ts in
the se
ctor (
cook
s, re
staur
ateur
s, jou
rnali
sts, e
tc.) a
nd sc
hoolc
hildr
en ar
e lea
rning
abou
t the
loca
l are
a and
valui
ng th
e pro
ducti
on of
artis
anal
raw-
milk
Goud
a.
54
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
3 pro
duce
rsTh
e che
ese’s
prod
uctio
n and
long
aging
requ
ire gr
eat c
ommi
t-me
nt. T
he P
resid
ium m
ade e
very
effor
t to en
sure
that
this p
rodu
c-tio
n wou
ld no
t disa
ppea
r.
Two f
amilie
s dec
ided t
o con
tinue
prod
ucing
artis
anal
Goud
a. W
ith S
low F
ood’s
supp
ort, f
or th
e first
time t
hey
exten
ded t
he ag
ing pe
riod f
or th
e che
ese,
impr
oving
its
quali
ty an
d flav
or.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
o-div
ersit
y in g
ener
al,
allow
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
ar-
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
Aged
artis
anal
Goud
a (Bo
eren
-Gou
dse O
plegk
aas i
n Dutc
h) w
as
made
with
raw
milk
only
in the
summ
er, w
hen t
he co
ws w
ere p
as-
tured
on th
e pea
t mea
dows
of th
e Gro
ene H
art r
egion
, betw
een
Amste
rdam
, Rott
erda
m an
d Utre
cht.
The P
resid
ium di
d not
need
to ch
ange
the p
rodu
ction
syste
m to
impr
ove i
ts su
staina
bility
. It w
as m
ore a
ques
tion o
f pre
servi
ng
the w
ork t
he pr
oduc
ers w
ere a
lread
y car
rying
out, t
ogeth
er w
ith
prom
otion
at a
local,
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l leve
l.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
In the
summ
er, w
hen t
he co
ws w
ere p
astur
ed, c
anal
water
was
us
ed.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d tha
t this
eleme
nt no
t be m
odifie
d. In
the su
mmer,
whe
n the
cows
are p
astur
ed, c
anal
water
is us
ed.
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
No
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
NoNo
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
Whe
n not
pastu
red,
the co
ws w
ere f
ed on
ly wi
th co
rn gr
own b
y the
far
mers
thems
elves
. Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
hat th
is ele
ment
not b
e mod
ified
The c
ows p
astur
e outd
oors
in the
summ
er, an
d in
the w
inter
they
are f
ed a
natur
al die
t (co
rn an
d bee
ts)
prod
uced
on th
e far
m.
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
The p
rodu
cers
only
grew
corn
. Th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l spe
cified
that
corn
be ro
tated
with
fora
ge
crops
. Th
e rota
tion o
f cor
n and
fora
ge cr
ops i
s plan
ned.
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
Durin
g the
summ
er, th
e cow
s pas
tured
outdo
ors d
ay an
d nigh
t. In
the co
lder m
onths
they
wer
e kep
t in sh
eds.
The p
rotoc
ol en
sure
d tha
t the t
radit
ional
farmi
ng sy
stem
was n
ot ch
ange
d. Th
e pro
tocol
guar
antee
s the
welf
are o
f the a
nimals
ev
en w
hile t
he co
ws ar
e kep
t indo
ors.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Durin
g the
wint
er, th
e far
mers
used
corn
and,
at tim
es, s
ilage
. Th
e pro
tocol
bans
supp
lemen
ting t
he co
ws’ d
iet w
ith si
lage a
nd
GMO
feed.
The p
rodu
cers
don’t
use s
ilage
or G
MO fe
ed.
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
The c
hees
e was
prod
uced
using
raw
milk
from
Holst
ein-F
riesia
n co
ws. A
n unu
sual
featur
e of th
e pro
cess
ing w
as th
e was
hing o
f the
curd
: afte
r cutt
ing, th
e mas
s was
heate
d and
rinse
d with
hot
water
. This
gave
the G
ouda
a ba
lance
d swe
etnes
s, lim
iting t
he
acidi
ty an
d bitte
rnes
s tha
t cou
ld oth
erwi
se de
velop
durin
g agin
g. Ad
dition
ally,
starte
rs pr
oduc
ed in
the d
airy f
rom
the pr
eviou
s day
’s mi
lk we
re us
ed to
curd
le the
milk
.
The p
rotoc
ol en
sure
d tha
t the t
radit
ional
proc
essin
g sys
tem w
as
not c
hang
ed.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers h
ave b
ecom
e amb
assa
dors
for th
e pro
ducti
on of
raw-
milk
Goud
a and
its tr
aditio
nal
prod
uctio
n tec
hniqu
e.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
55
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
The c
hees
es, w
eighin
g 20 k
ilos o
r mor
e, we
re sh
aped
in tr
aditio
nal
wood
en m
olds l
ined w
ith lin
en. T
he w
ord o
pleg m
eans
“age
d,” an
d the
chee
ses w
ere a
ged f
or a
minim
um of
12 m
onths
, thou
gh th
ey
could
matu
re fo
r up t
o five
year
s. To
obtai
n the
clas
sic go
lden,
gloss
y exte
rior, t
he pr
oduc
ers a
pplie
d a th
in film
of pl
astic
to th
e ch
eese
.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers b
egan
wor
king t
o exte
nd th
e mini
mum
aging
time (
curre
ntly 1
2 mon
ths).
Curre
ntly t
he pr
otoco
l requ
ires a
mini
mum
aging
of 12
mo
nths,
but th
e pro
duce
rs ar
e wor
king t
o cha
nge i
t to
24 m
onths
. The
best
roun
ds ag
e for
up to
five y
ears.
Th
e pro
blem
of the
plas
tic fil
m on
the e
xterio
r has
not
yet b
een r
esolv
ed.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
NoTh
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l was
draw
n up.
Ye
s, the
two p
rodu
cers
follow
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-su
stain-
able?
Are
the p
rod-
uct’s
char
acter
istics
pr
oper
ly de
scrib
ed on
the
labe
l?
Befor
e the
estab
lishm
ent o
f the P
resid
ium, th
e Gou
da w
as
bran
ded a
s an a
rtisan
al pr
oduc
t. Th
e pro
duce
rs wo
rked o
n the
Gou
da ag
ing pr
oces
s to e
valua
te the
char
acter
istics
nece
ssar
y for
the a
ged a
rtisan
al Go
uda b
rand
. Th
e pro
duce
rs cre
ated t
he “B
oern
Gou
dse O
plegk
aas”
bran
d.
The G
ouda
is co
vere
d by a
thin
film of
plas
tic th
at pr
otects
it fro
m ba
cteria
and i
mpur
ities.
The p
rodu
cers
sell w
edge
s of G
ouda
dire
ctly t
o con
sume
rs, pa
ckag
ed
in pa
per. T
he P
resid
ium ch
eese
bear
s the
“Boe
ren
Goud
se O
plegk
aas”
bran
d.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
56
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
The p
rodu
cers
sold
the G
ouda
two w
eeks
after
its pr
oduc
tion t
o the
De P
rodu
cent
coop
erati
ve. T
he co
oper
ative
, foun
ded i
n 191
5 in
Goud
a, ha
d an a
ging f
acilit
y for
chee
se an
d it to
ok ca
re of
the
aging
and s
ale of
the c
hees
e. On
e of th
e pro
duce
rs wo
uld bu
y the
aged
chee
se ba
ck fr
om D
e Pro
duce
nt to
sell i
t in th
eir sh
op.
Durin
g the
aging
perio
d, the
quali
ty of
the G
ouda
was
mon
itore
d by
the p
rodu
cers
thems
elves
.
The p
rodu
cers
worke
d to p
romo
te the
quali
ty of
their c
hees
e. Th
e situ
ation
is un
chan
ged,
thoug
h the
coop
erati
ve th
at ag
es th
e che
ese c
harg
es a
highe
r pric
e for
Pre
sidium
ch
eese
.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na-
tiona
l or in
terna
tiona
l?
Loca
lTh
e pro
duce
rs so
ld dir
ectly
only
from
their d
airies
and d
uring
Slow
Fo
od ev
ents
in the
Neth
erlan
ds an
d at a
n inte
rnati
onal
level.
Th
e che
ese’s
mar
ket is
80 pe
rcent
local
and n
ation
al,
and 2
0 per
cent
inter
natio
nal.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up
? Is i
t pro
fitable
for
the pr
oduc
ers?
The D
e Pro
duce
nt co
oper
ative
sold
the P
resid
ium ch
eese
at 8
euro
s a ki
lo.
The D
e Pro
duce
nt co
oper
ative
pays
the p
rodu
cers
betw
een a
roun
d 3.50
and 4
.50 eu
ros p
er ki
lo of
Goud
a. Th
e pric
e is d
ecide
d by t
he na
tiona
l com
miss
ion fo
r the
prod
uctio
n of a
rtisan
al ch
eese
and d
epen
ds on
the
time o
f yea
r, the
weig
ht of
the ch
eese
and t
he qu
antity
of
chee
se pr
oduc
ed. T
he co
oper
ative
rese
lls th
e Pr
esidi
um ch
eese
at 11
-12 e
uros
. The
Gou
da is
sold
to the
cons
umer
at 20
-25 e
uros
a kil
o in t
he N
ether
lands
, 15
-18 e
uros
if bo
ught
direc
tly fr
om th
e far
m an
d 25-
30
euro
s on t
he in
terna
tiona
l mar
ket.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)Pr
oduc
tion q
uanti
tyHa
s the
re be
en
an in
creas
e in
prod
uctio
n sinc
e the
es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pr
esidi
um? I
ndica
te the
initia
l and
curre
nt qu
antiti
es. If
ther
e has
no
t bee
n an i
ncre
ase,
is it c
onsid
ered
a re
strict
ion?
5,000
kilos
Than
ks to
the s
uppo
rt of
Slow
Foo
d, for
the fi
rst tim
e the
y ex-
tende
d the
Gou
da’s
aging
perio
d, im
prov
ing its
quali
ty an
d flav
or.
In 20
10, th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s sold
3,70
0 kilo
s of
Goud
a to t
he D
e Pro
duce
nt co
oper
ative
.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
57
Romania - Bucegi Mountains Branza de Burduf In Transylvania, on the slopes of the high Bucegi Mountains in the Carpathians, droving shepherds still make a living as cheesemakers. At the beginning of summer the herders collect animals from local farmers and herd their flocks to mountain dairies (stâne). Here they process the raw milk and in return for this service, keep part of the cheese and several lambs. The Romanian heritage sheep breeds are Turcana and Tigae, the first having a thick fleece traditionally use to make jackets and rugs. They are hardy breeds, well adapted to mountain pastures which can only be accessed by narrow paths. Transylvanian shepherds use the milk to make Telemea – similar to Greek feta– Urda (ricotta), Cascaval and Ca?. The latter is the basis for Brânzá de Burduf, the most valuable among Romanian cheeses.To make Ca?, calf or lamb rennet is added to fresh milk, which is left to curdle after being heated to 40°. The curd is then broken into small pieces. This is left to settle for 45 minutes, after which the curd is wrapped in a cloth. To drain the whey, the cloth is wrung and the curd is pressed under a wooden board with heavy stones placed on top. The paste is then placed inside a wooden container. Cas can be eaten fresh or left maturing in sheep’s skin or bladder after being ground and salted. For the rarest version, the cheese is aged inside coaj? de brad (fir tree bark) and is called Branza de Burduf.Branza de Burduf in fir tree bark is produced from May to July, when the trees are rich in aromatic resin: after the bark is scraped, it is softened in hot whey and then sewed to produce cylindrical containers 20-25 cm high and 10 cm wide, sealed with bark discs at the edges.Branza can be aged from 20 days to 2-3 months, its flavor becoming increasingly spicy with aging. Fir tree bark imparts a resinous flavor on the cheese and enhances its sensory qualities.Production Area: Municipalities of Bran, Moeciu and Fundata, Brasov County
58
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
NCu
ltura
l iden
tityW
hat is
the c
ul-tur
al lin
k with
the
local
area
? Doe
s the
Pr
esidi
um pr
eser
ve
tradit
ional
know
ledge
or
skills
? Doe
s it
prote
ct na
tive b
reed
s an
d tra
dition
al pla
nt va
rietie
s?
Bran
za de
Bur
duf is
a tra
dition
al ch
eese
mad
e fro
m co
w an
d she
ep
milk
and a
ged i
n cyli
nder
s of fi
r bar
k. Th
is an
cient
chee
se is
mad
e thr
ough
out th
e Car
pathi
an m
ounta
ins, b
ut the
Pre
sidium
is fo
cuse
d on
the m
ost h
istor
ic Pr
oduc
tion A
rea,
the B
uceg
i mou
ntains
, in
the so
uther
n Car
pathi
ans.
The a
bund
ance
of fir
tree
s her
e led
to
the us
e of th
eir ba
rk as
a co
ntaine
r for
the c
hees
e. Th
e tra
dition
of
seas
onall
y migr
ating
lives
tock i
s still
comm
only
prac
ticed
and c
hee-
sema
king i
s one
of th
e main
activ
ities.
Howe
ver, a
n ove
rly rig
id ap
plica
tion o
f Eur
opea
n hyg
iene r
egula
tions
was
puttin
g tra
dition
al he
rding
and p
rodu
ction
tech
nique
s at r
isk. T
wo lo
cal s
heep
bree
ds
still s
urviv
e her
e, the
Tiga
e and
the T
urca
na.
A pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wa
s dra
wn up
to es
tablis
h stan
dard
s for
the
chee
sema
king i
n mou
ntain
pastu
res a
nd ob
tain a
lega
lly
acce
ptable
chee
se of
cons
isten
tly hi
gh qu
ality.
This
spec
ifies t
hat
the an
imals
mus
t be p
astur
ed, d
escri
bes t
he pr
oces
sing s
teps,
estab
lishe
s the
aging
perio
ds an
d gua
rante
es gr
eater
atten
tion
to foo
d safe
ty. La
ter a
facilit
y was
built
for pr
oces
sing a
nd ag
ing
the ch
eese
, and
wor
k is c
urre
ntly o
ngoin
g to m
ake s
ure t
he
milki
ng, c
hees
emak
ing an
d agin
g in t
he m
ounta
in da
iries m
eets
legal
stand
ards
. At th
e sam
e tim
e, the
prod
uct is
being
prom
oted
in Ro
mania
and o
n the
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t.
The p
rodu
cers
have
sign
ed a
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
that g
uara
ntees
the a
uthen
ticity
of th
e che
ese a
nd
pres
erve
s the
trad
itiona
l pro
ducti
on te
chniq
ues.
The p
romo
tion o
f the c
hees
e on t
he lo
cal, n
ation
al an
d inte
rnati
onal
marke
t has
brou
ght h
igher
profi
ts,
enco
urag
ing th
e pro
duce
rs to
maint
ain th
e mou
ntain
pastu
res a
nd sa
fegua
rd th
e che
ese,
a sym
bol o
f the
local
cultu
re. T
he ch
eese
contr
ibutes
to th
e sur
vival
of the
loca
l she
ep br
eeds
.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
in-ing
exch
ange
s be-
twee
n the
Pre
sidium
an
d othe
r enti
ties?
Ha
ve th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers t
rave
led,
partic
ipated
in ev
ents,
etc
.?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, the
prod
ucer
s did
not p
ar-
ticipa
te in
any e
vents
: loca
lly, n
ation
ally o
r inter
natio
nally
. Th
e pro
duce
rs so
ld the
ir che
ese d
irectl
y fro
m the
ir dair
ies an
d du
ring S
low F
ood e
vents
in R
oman
ia an
d abr
oad.
Sinc
e 200
7 at
least
three
of th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s hav
e reg
ularly
partic
i-pa
ted in
at le
ast o
ne in
terna
tiona
l eve
nt a y
ear, i
nclud
ing S
alone
de
l Gus
to (T
urin)
and C
hees
e (Br
a), w
ith a
stand
whe
re th
ey
could
pres
ent a
nd se
ll the
ir pro
duct.
The
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s be
gan p
artic
ipatin
g reg
ularly
in th
e Buc
hare
st Ea
rth M
arke
t and
the
wee
kly fa
rmer
s’ ma
rket o
rgan
ized b
y Slow
Foo
d Bra
sov.
The p
rodu
cers
have
acqu
ired a
grea
ter fa
milia
rity w
ith
the na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t, buil
ding u
p a
netw
ork o
f con
tacts
and l
earn
ing th
e bes
t way
to pr
es-
ent th
eir pr
oduc
t.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Ther
e was
no fo
rm of
orga
nizati
on.
The P
resid
ium co
ordin
ator s
et up
a fac
ility f
or pr
oces
sing a
nd
aging
the c
hees
e, wi
th the
aim
of ma
king i
t ava
ilable
to al
l the
prod
ucer
s who
resp
ect th
e pro
tocol.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers w
ho us
e the
new
facilit
y are
wo
rking
to fo
rm an
asso
ciatio
n and
to re
gister
a sh
ared
br
and.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?No
Vario
us m
eetin
gs w
ere s
et up
to sh
are t
he pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wi
th the
prod
ucer
s.
The p
rodu
cers
meet
three
times
a ye
ar to
mak
e de
cision
s abo
ut pr
omoti
on an
d iss
ues r
elatin
g to
prod
uctio
n.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
ople?
In
what
way?
NoA
youn
g man
from
the c
ommu
nity i
nvolv
ed in
Bra
nza d
e Bur
duf
prod
uctio
n has
take
n par
t in Te
rra M
adre
and S
alone
del G
usto
andis
now
comm
itted t
o the
econ
omic,
socia
l and
cultu
ral im
por-
tance
of th
e pro
ject.
The P
resid
ium co
ordin
ator, w
ho is
also
a ch
eese
make
r, is
32. O
ther y
oung
peop
le ar
e gra
duall
y bec
oming
int
eres
ted in
the p
rojec
t.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
The p
rodu
cers
were
not o
rgan
ized a
nd th
ere w
as no
decis
ion-
makin
g stru
cture
. Th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s star
ted co
mmun
icatin
g dire
ctly a
mong
the
mselv
es ab
out p
rodu
ction
chall
enge
s. Th
ese d
iscus
sions
inv
olved
ever
yone
in an
egali
tarian
way
.
Curre
ntly t
he P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers a
re co
llecti
vely
man-
aging
the p
roce
ssing
and a
ging f
acilit
y, in
an in
forma
l wa
y. Th
e Pre
sidium
coor
dinato
r is al
so th
e own
er of
the
struc
ture,
which
is m
ade a
vaila
ble to
the o
thers
for fr
ee,
and h
e ove
rsees
the m
anag
emen
t of th
e fac
ility.
The
prod
ucer
s mee
t infor
mally
at le
ast th
ree t
imes
a ye
ar
to dis
cuss
form
s of p
romo
tion a
nd is
sues
relat
ing to
pr
oduc
tion.
Decis
ions a
re ge
nera
lly ta
ken c
ollec
tively
.
59
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
NoSi
nce t
he P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed,
vario
us m
eetin
gs ha
ve
been
orga
nized
with
the p
rodu
cers
to he
lp the
m to
colla
bora
te an
d wor
k tog
ether.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
es re
gular
mee
tings
for a
ll the
pr
oduc
ers.
New
prod
ucer
s can
be in
volve
d only
if the
y ag
ree t
o foll
ow th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
NoTh
e Pre
sidium
orga
nizes
mee
tings
with
a loc
al ve
terina
rian a
nd
inter
natio
nal e
xper
ts (S
low F
ood c
onsu
ltants
), ins
piring
disc
us-
sions
abou
t the f
uture
for t
he ar
tisan
al pr
oduc
tion o
f Bra
nza d
e Bu
rduf.
The P
resid
ium ha
s a go
od re
lation
ship
with
the lo
cal
healt
h auth
oritie
s, wh
o hav
e alre
ady c
ertifi
ed th
e dair
y (n
ow au
thoriz
ed fo
r dire
ct sa
les). A
n imp
ortan
t and
inn
ovati
ve in
itiativ
e is n
ow un
derw
ay to
ensu
re th
at the
first
proc
essin
g pha
se, w
hich t
akes
plac
e in t
he
indivi
dual
moun
tain d
airies
, mee
ts hy
giene
regu
la-tio
n stan
dard
s. Ma
king t
he ch
eese
invo
lves a
n init
ial
proc
essin
g pha
se in
mou
ntain
huts,
follo
wed b
y fur
ther
proc
essin
g and
aging
in th
e sha
red f
acilit
y at a
lowe
r alt
itude
. Re
lation
ship
with
the
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork
Does
the P
resid
ium
have
a re
lation
ship
with
the lo
cal, n
ation
al an
d inte
rnati
onal
Slow
Fo
od ne
twor
k?
NoTh
e pro
duce
rs’ pa
rticipa
tion i
n var
ious l
ocal,
natio
nal a
nd
inter
natio
nal e
vents
orga
nized
by S
low F
ood h
as al
lowed
them
to
beco
me ve
ry fam
iliar w
ith th
e ass
ociat
ion.
Yes,
the P
resid
ium ha
s an e
xcell
ent r
elatio
nship
with
bo
th the
Slow
Foo
d Bra
n Moe
ciu C
onviv
ium an
d the
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork i
n Rom
ania.
The
Pre
sidium
als
o par
ticipa
tes ac
tively
in th
e Ter
ra M
adre
Balk
ans
netw
ork.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
rati-
ficati
on as
a re
sult?
Ha
s the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Herd
ing w
as st
ill co
nside
red a
n infe
rior, o
ld-fas
hione
d acti
vity i
n Ro
mania
, of li
ttle in
teres
t to yo
unge
r gen
erati
ons.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y inte
rnati
onal
even
ts, th
e na-
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal p
ress
dedic
ated m
uch a
ttenti
on to
them
an
d artic
les, b
roch
ures
and i
ntervi
ews w
ere p
rodu
ced (
includ
ing
an in
tervie
w wi
th the
BBC
in 20
09, fo
r exa
mple)
. Som
e pro
duc-
ers a
ctive
ly pa
rticipa
ted in
confe
renc
es an
d sem
inars.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers h
ave u
nder
stood
the i
mpor
-tan
ce of
their
wor
k in s
afegu
ardin
g her
ding t
radit
ions,
local
bree
ds an
d the
ir che
ese.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
-sid
ium pr
oduc
ers)
and v
ertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Initia
lly th
e thr
ee P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers w
orke
d ind
epen
dentl
y, ea
ch
follow
ing th
eir ow
n rec
ipe.
The p
rodu
cers
helpe
d dra
w up
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col a
nd
defin
e the
char
acter
istics
that
distin
guish
the p
rodu
ct. T
he
prod
ucer
s too
k par
t in m
any i
ntern
ation
al ev
ents
and t
he na
tiona
l an
d inte
rnati
onal
pres
s ded
icated
muc
h atte
ntion
to th
em. T
wice
a y
ear, t
he pr
oduc
ers c
ollab
orate
with
Slow
Foo
d Bra
n Moe
ciu
Conv
ivium
to pr
esen
t their
wor
k and
prod
ucts
to ch
ildre
n, wh
o als
o par
ticipa
te in
taste
educ
ation
activ
ities.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col c
ame o
ut of
an ex
chan
ge of
kn
owled
ge be
twee
n the
thre
e pro
duce
rs wh
o star
ted
the pr
oject.
Tha
nks t
o this
docu
ment
a sha
red m
ethod
-olo
gy fo
r pro
ducin
g the
chee
se ha
s bee
n defi
ned,
and
can b
e tau
ght to
new
prod
ucer
s who
wan
t to jo
in the
Pr
esidi
um. K
nowl
edge
abou
t the a
rea a
nd th
e pro
duct
is sh
ared
amon
g pro
duce
rs an
d the
inter
natio
nal a
nd
local
comm
unity
(Slow
Foo
d con
vivia,
child
ren,
etc.).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivi-
ties?
NoAt
leas
t twice
a ye
ar th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivitie
s org
anize
d by t
he B
ran M
oeciu
Con
vivium
at
Palam
ari’s
Cen
tre fo
r Edu
catio
n in F
unda
ta.
Ever
y yea
r, sev
eral
hund
red c
hildr
en ha
ve th
e cha
nce
to lea
rn ab
out th
e pro
duct
and i
ts loc
al ar
ea.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
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DESC
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OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
60
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
Thre
e her
ders
and c
hees
emak
ers i
n the
mun
icipa
lities
of B
ran,
Moec
iu an
d Fun
data,
in th
e cou
nty of
Bra
sov.
Af
ter th
e first
few
year
s, tw
o new
prod
ucer
s join
ed th
e pro
ject.
Five p
rodu
cers,
who
will
soon
be fo
rming
an as
socia
-tio
n.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
sid-
ium do
to pr
otect
the
local
ecos
ystem
? (e.g
. pr
omoti
ng bi
odive
rsity
in ge
nera
l, allo
w-ing
the r
ecov
ery o
f pa
sture
s and
mar
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
The p
rojec
t did
not n
eed t
o cha
nge t
he pr
oduc
tion s
ystem
to
impr
ove i
ts su
staina
bility
. It w
as m
ore a
ques
tion o
f pre
servi
ng
the w
ork t
he pr
oduc
ers w
ere a
lread
y doin
g, an
d org
anizi
ng
prom
otion
at a
local,
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l leve
l.
The P
resid
ium ca
rries
out a
n ess
entia
l role
in ma
intain
-ing
the c
ultur
e of m
ounta
in ch
eese
makin
g and
pres
erv-
ing th
e lan
dsca
pe an
d the
biod
iversi
ty of
the pa
sture
s. Th
e Pre
sidium
also
prote
cts th
e sur
vival
of tw
o loc
al sh
eep b
reed
s, the
Tiga
e and
the T
urca
na.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
NoNo
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
No
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
NoNo
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
NoNo
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
NoNo
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
NoNo
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
At th
e star
t of th
e sum
mer, t
he lo
cal in
habit
ants
hand
ed th
eir
anim
als ov
er to
herd
ers w
ho gr
oupe
d the
m int
o her
ds an
d too
k the
m up
to th
e pas
tures
in th
e Buc
egi m
ounta
ins, w
here
they
sta
yed u
ntil e
arly
fall. T
he an
imals
graz
ed fr
eely
durin
g the
day,
and
were
herd
ed in
to en
closu
res i
n the
even
ing. T
owar
ds th
e midd
le of
Septe
mber,
the a
nimals
wer
e bro
ught
down
from
the m
ounta
ins
and r
eturn
ed to
their
owne
rs, w
ho ke
pt the
m ind
oors
over
the
winte
r, fee
ding t
hem
mostl
y for
age h
arve
sted f
rom
their o
wn la
nd
durin
g the
summ
er m
onths
.
The p
rotoc
ol en
sure
d tha
t the t
radit
ional
farmi
ng sy
stem
was n
ot ch
ange
d. Br
anza
de B
urdu
f is ob
taine
d fro
m mi
lk fro
m an
imals
wh
o gra
ze fr
eely
in mo
untai
n pas
tures
in th
e sum
mer.
In the
wint
er th
ey ar
e kep
t indo
ors.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
The a
nimals
feed
only
on pa
sture
gras
ses f
or th
e who
le su
mmer
pe
riod,
with
a sup
pleme
nt of
local
hay i
n the
fall a
nd sp
ring.
Unfer
-me
nted c
orn w
as ad
ded t
o the
ir diet
durin
g the
wint
er m
onths
.
The p
rotoc
ol ba
ns th
e use
of si
lage a
nd G
MO fe
ed an
d enc
our-
ages
mou
ntain
pastu
ring.
Thes
e two
aspe
cts, c
rucia
l to th
e Pr
esidi
um, a
re sp
ecifie
d clea
rly in
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col.
The a
nimals
feed
only
on pa
sture
gras
ses f
or th
e who
le su
mmer
perio
d, wi
th a s
upple
ment
of loc
al ha
y in t
he
fall a
nd sp
ring.
Unfer
mente
d and
non-
GMO
corn
is
adde
d to t
heir d
iet du
ring t
he w
inter
mon
ths.
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
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TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
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OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
61
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Yes,
the pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique w
as ar
tisan
al.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
s the
conti
nuati
on of
the a
rtisan
al pr
oces
s-ing
tech
nique
. Ye
s, the
proc
essin
g tec
hniqu
e is a
rtisan
al.
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
Yes,
the pr
eser
vatio
n tec
hniqu
e was
artis
anal.
Th
e agin
g fac
ility b
uilt b
y the
Pre
sidium
is pa
rtly ca
rved o
ut of
the
rock
and p
artly
built
from
stone
so th
at the
chee
se ca
n con
tinue
to
be ag
ed ar
tisan
ally.
Yes,
the pr
eser
vatio
n tec
hniqu
e is a
rtisan
al.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
NoVi
sits b
y inte
rnati
onal
chee
sema
king e
xper
ts an
d vete
rinar
ians
were
orga
nized
to he
lp dr
aw up
the p
rodu
ction
proto
col.
Yes,
there
is a
shar
ed pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol, w
hich
still n
eeds
to be
integ
rated
with
a da
iry m
anag
emen
t ma
nual.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-
susta
inable
? Are
the
prod
uct’s
char
acter
is-tic
s pro
perly
desc
ribed
on
the l
abel?
One o
f the c
hees
e’s ch
arac
terist
ics w
as its
aging
in a
fir-ba
rk cy
linde
r. The
bark
was c
ut fro
m se
lected
tree
s and
softe
ned a
nd
sterili
zed i
n whe
y. Th
e che
ese t
hus a
lread
y had
its ow
n suit
able,
or
igina
l and
susta
inable
pack
aging
. How
ever,
ther
e was
no ki
nd of
lab
eling
on th
e pro
duct.
The p
rodu
ction
proto
col s
pecifi
ed th
e main
tenan
ce of
this
pack
aging
and t
he tr
aditio
nal te
chniq
ue fo
r pre
parin
g the
bark.
Th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s wer
e give
n som
e tra
ining
on w
hat
infor
matio
n to i
nclud
e on a
labe
l and
labe
ling f
orma
ts.
The c
hees
e has
kept
its tr
aditio
nal p
acka
ging,
but a
re
cogn
izable
logo
has b
een c
reate
d and
featu
res o
n a
comp
rehe
nsive
labe
l. All t
he pr
oduc
ers u
se th
e sam
e lab
el.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
62
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
The p
rodu
cers
sold
their c
hees
e mos
tly to
tour
ists v
isitin
g the
area
or
to w
holes
alers.
In bo
th ca
ses t
he pr
oduc
ers d
id no
t hav
e the
co
rrect
food s
afety
autho
rizati
on an
d the
prod
uct h
ad no
kind
of
labeli
ng.
The p
rodu
cers
sold
their c
hees
e dire
ctly f
rom
the fa
rm an
d dur
-ing
Slow
Foo
d eve
nts in
Rom
ania
and a
broa
d. Ov
er th
e yea
rs,
an aw
aren
ess-r
aising
camp
aign t
arge
ted S
low F
ood m
embe
rs in
Roma
nia, e
ncou
ragin
g the
m to
help
prom
ote an
d sell
the
chee
se.
The p
rodu
cers
sell t
heir c
hees
e dire
ctly f
rom
the fa
rm
and d
uring
Slow
Foo
d eve
nts in
Rom
ania
and a
broa
d. Th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s reg
ularly
partic
ipate
in the
Bu
char
est E
arth
Marke
t and
the w
eekly
farm
ers’
marke
t or
ganiz
ed by
Slow
Foo
d Bra
sov.
The p
rodu
cers
can
legall
y sell
their
prod
uct.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
pr
oduc
ts loc
al, na
-tio
nal o
r inter
natio
nal?
Loca
lTh
e pro
duce
rs so
ld the
ir che
ese d
irectl
y fro
m the
farm
and d
ur-
ing S
low F
ood e
vents
in R
oman
ia an
d abr
oad.
Loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up?
Is it p
rofita
ble fo
r the
pr
oduc
ers?
The p
rice g
ener
ally r
ecog
nized
on th
e loc
al ma
rket w
as 25
-30 l
ei (a
roun
d 6 eu
ros)
per k
ilo.
The p
rodu
cers
sold
their c
hees
e dire
ctly f
rom
the fa
rm an
d dur
-ing
Slow
Foo
d eve
nts in
Rom
ania
and a
broa
d. Th
e pric
e var
ies de
pend
ing on
the q
uanti
ty or
dere
d, bu
t ge
nera
lly it
sells
for a
roun
d 25-
30 le
i (6 eu
ros)
per k
ilo
on th
e loc
al ma
rket, c
omma
nding
high
er pr
ices i
n the
ca
pital
and a
t inter
natio
nal e
vents
.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly
distrib
uted a
nd do
the
y actu
ally r
each
the
hand
s of in
dividu
al pr
oduc
ers?
(NB
only
in ca
ses w
here
ther
e is
an as
socia
tion)
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pro
-du
ction
sinc
e the
es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pr
esidi
um? I
ndica
te the
initia
l and
curre
nt qu
antiti
es. If
ther
e has
no
t bee
n an i
ncre
ase,
is it c
onsid
ered
a re
strict
ion?
Arou
nd 3
tons.
As of
2011
, than
ks to
the c
reati
on of
the s
ite w
ww.fe
rma-
buce
gi.ro
, the P
resid
ium be
came
bette
r kno
wn in
Rom
ania
and b
egan
to
be so
ld in
cons
idera
bly hi
gher
quan
tities
.
Arou
nd 6½
tons
.
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
63
Sweden - Jämtland Cellar Matured Goat CheeseCellar matured goat cheese is a traditional product from the mountainous area of central Sweden. There are today pro-ducers in the counties of Jamtland, Harjedalen and Angermanland. For centuries this cheese, then simply called white goats cheese, was produced in the summer pasture villages, far away from the home farm, as a way to preserve the excellent quality, creamy milk produced from the goats that grazed in a varied pasture of meadows, heath and forest. Now referred to as cellar matured goat cheese, it is still made in a few remaining summer pasture farms as well as by some small-scale home farms that keep their own goats. Each producer’s cheese is made unique by the pasture on which the goats graze and by the natural moulds of the old stone aging cellars. Cheese making also means a better chance for survival for the indigenous breed of goat, the Svensk Lantrasget, the primary breed used for producing the cellar matured goat cheese. Once tens of thousands of Svensk Lantrasget could be found in Sweden, but now it is considered a threatened species and only around 2,500 survive today. A relatively small, long-haired goat, it is well adapted to living in a cold climate. The raw milk cheese is made in the morning by adding the previous evening’s milk to the morning milk. Natural me-sophillic lactic acid cultures and animal rennet are added. The curd is cut by hand, or with a curd harp, to the size of a kernel of sweet corn. The cheese is pressed into a rectangular wooden cheese mould. It can be either salted or unsalted. The brick shaped cheese forms are matured on wooden boards in stone lined earthen cellars, giving each cheese its own unique taste and colorful crust of natural mould. Generally matured for 6-7 months to produce a cheese full of character, it can also be eaten as a young cheese at 2-3 months, or as a more mature cheese at 4-5 months and up to one year.Production of traditional raw milk cheese in Sweden has been threatened by increasing industrial cheese production and food safety legislation aimed at large scale production. In recent years legislation has been amended to make possible small-scale production which combines tradition with modern hygiene and microbiology.Production Area: Counties of Jämtland and Härjedalen, Jämtland Region
64
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
N
Cultu
ral id
entity
Wha
t is th
e cul-
tural
link w
ith th
e loc
al ar
ea? D
oes t
he
Pres
idium
pres
erve
tra
dition
al kn
owled
ge
or sk
ills? D
oes i
t pr
otect
nativ
e bre
eds
and t
radit
ional
plant
varie
ties?
Cella
r-matu
red g
oat c
hees
e is a
typic
al pr
oduc
t from
centr
al Sw
eden
, esp
ecial
ly the
coun
ty of
Jämt
land.
Know
n sim
ply as
goat
chee
se, fo
r cen
turies
it ha
d bee
n mad
e in t
he su
mmer
by sm
all
dairie
s usin
g the
exce
llent
milk
prod
uced
by S
vens
k Lan
trasg
et go
ats. T
he go
ats gr
azed
in a
beau
tiful la
ndsc
ape o
f lake
s, me
ad-
ows a
nd co
nifer
fore
sts. S
ome p
rodu
cers
still t
ook t
heir g
oats
up to
pa
sture
in th
e mou
ntains
in th
e sum
mer, n
ot for
lack
of gr
azing
in
the lo
wlan
ds bu
t to gi
ve th
e che
ese a
spec
ial fla
vor. E
ach c
hees
e ha
d uniq
ue ch
arac
terist
ics, w
hich c
ame f
rom
the di
versi
ty of
the
pastu
res a
nd th
e natu
ral m
olds t
hat fo
rmed
on th
e sur
face d
uring
ag
ing in
ancie
nt sto
ne ce
llars.
The
prod
uctio
n of th
is ch
eese
also
co
ntribu
ted to
safeg
uard
ing th
e nati
ve S
vens
k Lan
trasg
et br
eed.
A sm
all lo
ng-h
aired
goat,
it is
well s
uited
to S
wede
n’s ha
rsh cl
imate
. Th
ere w
ere o
nce t
hous
ands
of th
ese g
oats,
but th
e bre
ed is
now
at ris
k, wi
th les
s tha
n 2,50
0 now
survi
ving.
The r
eviva
l of th
is tra
dition
star
ted th
anks
to th
e fina
ncial
supp
ort
and t
echn
ical a
ssist
ance
of th
e Eldr
imne
r ass
ociat
ion, th
e Swe
d-ish
natio
nal c
enter
for a
rtisan
al foo
d pro
ducts
, and
the P
resid
ium
conti
nued
the p
rojec
t. The
prod
ucer
s met
regu
larly
and b
egan
to
work
togeth
er to
reviv
e and
pres
erve
this
ancie
nt tra
dition
. The
y als
o beg
an dr
afting
a pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol. A
t the s
ame t
ime,
the
prod
uct w
as pr
omote
d in t
he re
gion a
nd at
a na
tiona
l leve
l.
Cella
r-matu
red c
hees
e is n
ow kn
own a
nd ap
prec
iated
at
a loc
al an
d nati
onal
level.
The
Pre
sidium
prom
otes
the tr
aditio
nal p
roce
ssing
and a
ging t
echn
iques
and
prote
cts th
e nati
ve S
vens
k Lan
trasg
et go
at br
eed.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
in-ing
exch
ange
s be-
twee
n the
Pre
sidium
an
d othe
r enti
ties?
Ha
ve th
e Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
ers t
rave
led,
partic
ipated
in ev
ents,
etc
.?
The f
arme
rs an
d che
esem
aker
s ran
fami
ly bu
sines
ses a
nd be
fore
the la
unch
of th
e Pre
sidium
they
could
neve
r leav
e the
ir far
ms to
tra
vel.
The p
rodu
cers
starte
d to w
ork t
ogeth
er an
d org
anize
exch
ange
s of
know
ledge
. Tha
nks t
o bett
er or
ganiz
ation
, they
could
atten
d tra
ining
cour
ses a
nd ev
ents
locall
y (far
mers’
mar
kets,
loca
l fairs
), na
tiona
lly (S
maklu
st in
Stoc
kholm
and t
he tr
aditio
nal S
ärim
ner
winte
r mar
ket)
and,
since
2007
, inter
natio
nally
(Salo
ne de
l Gus
to,
Terra
Mad
re an
d Che
ese i
n Ital
y and
Eur
ogus
to in
Fran
ce).
The p
rodu
cers
have
acqu
ired a
grea
ter fa
milia
rity w
ith
the na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t, buil
ding u
p a ne
t-wo
rk of
conta
cts an
d lea
rning
the b
est w
ay to
mar
ket
their p
rodu
ct. T
he P
resid
ium ha
s a go
od re
lation
ship
with
the S
low F
ood n
etwor
k in S
wede
n.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, ther
e was
no fo
rm of
orga
niza-
tion.
Each
prod
ucer
wor
ked o
n the
ir own
, with
out in
terac
ting w
ith
the ot
hers.
Regu
lar m
eetin
gs w
ere o
rgan
ized w
ith th
e pro
duce
rs, du
ring
which
they
disc
usse
d the
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol.
Th
ere i
s still
no as
socia
tion,
but a
shar
ed pr
oduc
tion
proto
col is
being
draw
n up a
nd th
e pro
duce
rs sti
ll int
erac
t reg
ularly
.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?Ini
tially
colla
bora
tion a
nd co
ntact
betw
een p
rodu
cers
was m
inima
l.
Regu
lar m
eetin
gs w
ere o
rgan
ized b
etwee
n the
prod
ucer
s.Th
ere i
s goo
d coll
abor
ation
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers
and a
ll the
Pre
sidium
mem
bers
help
each
othe
r.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
ople?
In
what
way?
Some
of th
e pro
duce
rs’ ch
ildre
n wer
e alre
ady i
nvolv
ed in
prod
uc-
tion,
but in
gene
ral y
oung
peop
le ha
d littl
e inte
rest
in thi
s wor
k.
Some
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s hos
ted yo
ung p
eople
who
wer
e int
eres
ted in
lear
ning a
bout
chee
sema
king.
The c
hildr
en of
the p
rodu
cers
conti
nue t
o wor
k in t
he
family
busin
esse
s with
the i
ntenti
on of
takin
g the
m ov
er in
the f
uture
.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
were
not o
rga-
nized
and t
here
was
no de
cision
-mak
ing st
ructu
re.
Sinc
e the
Pre
sidium
was
estab
lishe
d, va
rious
mee
tings
have
be
en or
ganiz
ed to
facil
itate
colla
bora
tion b
etwee
n the
prod
ucer
s. Th
e pro
duce
rs me
et se
vera
l time
s a ye
ar to
disc
uss
the pr
oblem
s rela
ting t
o pro
ducti
on an
d to o
rgan
ize
prom
otion
toge
ther. D
ecisi
ons a
re ge
nera
lly ta
ken
colle
ctive
ly.
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
NoSi
nce t
he P
resid
ium w
as es
tablis
hed,
vario
us m
eetin
gs ha
ve
been
orga
nized
to fa
cilita
te co
llabo
ratio
n betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers.
The P
resid
ium or
ganiz
es re
gular
mee
tings
for a
ll the
pr
oduc
ers.
New
prod
ucer
s can
be in
volve
d only
if the
y ag
ree t
o foll
ow th
e pro
ducti
on pr
otoco
l.
65
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
had n
o con
tact
with
local
institu
tions
. Th
e Pre
sidium
has p
artic
ipated
regu
larly
in the
activ
ities a
nd
even
ts ru
n by t
he E
ldrim
ner a
ssoc
iation
and h
as m
ade c
ontac
t wi
th va
rious
loca
l and
natio
nal in
stitut
ions.
The P
resid
ium ca
n cou
nt on
the s
uppo
rt of
vario
us lo
-ca
l and
natio
nal in
stitut
ions,
includ
ing th
e mun
icipa
lity
and S
wedis
h univ
ersit
ies.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
were
not in
touc
h wi
th Sl
ow F
ood a
nd th
ere w
as no
conv
ivium
in th
e are
a.
The p
rodu
cers
partic
ipated
in va
rious
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
a-tio
nal e
vents
orga
nized
by S
low F
ood.
The P
resid
ium co
ordin
ator
starte
d a co
nvivi
um.
The P
resid
ium is
part
of the
Slow
Foo
d netw
ork a
nd
partic
ipates
in th
e loc
al co
nvivi
um’s
activ
ities.
Pride
and s
ocial
gr
atific
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appr
eciat
ed w
ithin
the
comm
unity
and h
ad
any p
erso
nal g
rati-
ficati
on as
a re
sult?
Ha
s the
ir soc
ial ro
le ch
ange
d and
been
str
ength
ened
?
Jämt
land c
ellar
-matu
red g
oat c
hees
e was
only
know
n at a
loca
l lev
el.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
man
y eve
nts (f
airs,
confe
renc
es, m
ar-
kets,
etc.)
. The
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l pre
ss de
dicate
d muc
h att
entio
n to t
hem
and S
low F
ood p
ublis
hed m
any a
rticles
, whic
h en
cour
aged
mor
e med
ia re
ports
.
Their
socia
l role
withi
n the
comm
unity
has b
een
stren
gthen
ed. T
he pr
oduc
ers h
ave o
btaine
d reg
ional
and n
ation
al re
cogn
ition (
and i
ntern
ation
al att
entio
n tha
nks t
o the
prom
otion
and c
ommu
nicati
on of
the
Pres
idium
).
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
-sid
ium pr
oduc
ers)
and v
ertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Initia
lly th
e Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s wor
ked o
n the
ir own
farm
s, wi
th ve
ry litt
le int
erac
tion a
mong
st the
mselv
es.
The p
rodu
cers
worke
d tog
ether
to dr
aw up
the p
rodu
ction
pr
otoco
l and
defin
e the
char
acter
istics
that
distin
guish
their
pr
oduc
t. The
mee
tings
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
ers s
erve
as ve
hicles
for
know
ledge
and s
harin
g exp
erien
ces.
Thro
ugh a
rticles
, med
ia re
ports
, eve
nts an
d con
feren
ces,
Slow
Foo
d bro
ught
know
ledge
ab
out th
e pro
duct
and i
ts qu
ality
to a w
ider p
ublic
.
Know
ledge
relat
ing to
the l
ocal
area
and t
he pr
oduc
t is
shar
ed am
ong p
rodu
cers
and b
etwee
n pro
duce
rs an
d the
inter
natio
nal, n
ation
al an
d loc
al co
mmun
ity (t
he
Slow
Foo
d con
vivium
, etc.
).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivi-
ties?
Befor
e the
Pre
sidium
, ther
e wer
e no e
duca
tiona
l acti
vities
. Th
e con
vivium
orga
nized
educ
ation
al ac
tivitie
s with
the P
resid
ium
prod
ucer
s and
loca
l con
sume
rs. D
uring
the S
maklu
st ev
ent la
st ye
ar, a
goat
chee
se ta
sting
was
orga
nized
for c
hildr
en fr
om lo
cal
scho
ols.
More
and m
ore c
hildr
en an
d con
sume
rs ha
ve ha
d a
chan
ce to
lear
n abo
ut the
trad
itiona
l pro
ducti
on te
ch-
nique
for J
ämtla
nd go
at ch
eese
, than
ks to
the a
ctivit
ies
of the
Pre
sidium
prod
ucer
s.
66
Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
6 pro
duce
rs fro
m the
coun
ty of
Jämt
land.
6 pro
duce
rs fro
m the
coun
ty of
Jämt
land.
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
sid-
ium do
to pr
otect
the
local
ecos
ystem
? (e.g
. pr
omoti
ng bi
odive
rsity
in ge
nera
l, allo
w-ing
the r
ecov
ery o
f pa
sture
s and
mar
ginal
zone
s, etc
.)
On th
eir fa
mily-
run f
arms
, the p
rodu
cers
soug
ht to
conti
nue t
he
tradit
ional
custo
ms of
prod
ucing
chee
se in
saete
rs, hi
gh m
ounta
in da
iries s
urro
unde
d by p
astur
es us
ed du
ring s
umme
r.
The p
rodu
cers
reco
vere
d and
resto
red t
he sa
eters
and t
heir s
ur-
roun
ding p
astur
es.
The P
resid
ium ca
rries
out a
n ess
entia
l role
in pr
eser
v-ing
the c
ultur
e of m
ounta
in pa
sture
chee
sema
king a
nd
prote
cting
the r
ural
lands
cape
and t
he bi
odive
rsity
of the
mea
dows
.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?Ro
tation
Yes/N
o. If y
es, w
ith
what
crops
?Int
ercro
pping
Yes/N
o. If y
es, w
ith
what
crops
?Ty
pe of
farm
ing an
d an
imal
welfa
reIs
the fa
rming
susta
in-ab
le? W
hat a
ttenti
on
is pa
id to
anim
al we
lfare
?
Grea
t atte
ntion
had a
lway
s bee
n paid
to an
imal
welfa
re. T
he pr
o-du
cers
raise
d a sm
all nu
mber
of go
ats an
d wer
e ver
y car
eful a
bout
their d
iet an
d hea
lth. T
he go
ats w
ere f
ree t
o gra
ze ou
tdoor
s, ev
en
in the
wint
er. T
hey a
re ve
ry ha
rdy a
nd re
sistan
t to th
e cold
.
The P
resid
ium pr
otoco
l spe
cified
the c
ontin
uatio
n of a
ttenti
on
to an
imal
welfa
re, a
nd sp
ecifie
d a se
ries o
f impr
ovem
ents
(for
exam
ple, a
n inc
reas
e in t
he sp
ace a
vaila
ble to
each
anim
al).
The g
oats
are r
aised
outdo
ors a
nd on
ly oc
casio
nally
ke
pt ind
oors.
The
spac
e ava
ilable
to th
em is
suffic
ient
to gu
aran
tee th
eir w
ell-b
eing.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Silag
e and
GMO
feed
wer
e not
used
. The
goats
wer
e fed
hay a
nd
gras
s, an
d give
n cer
eals
durin
g lac
tation
and i
n the
wint
er. A
lmos
t all
the p
rodu
cers
prod
uced
their
own h
ay an
d gra
ss an
d bou
ght
orga
nic ce
reals
.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d the
conti
nuati
on of
a qu
ality
diet. T
he
Pres
idium
is al
so w
orkin
g to i
ncre
ase t
he pr
opor
tion o
f mate
rial
grow
n on t
he fa
rms (
the m
ain pr
oblem
for t
he pr
oduc
tion o
f cer
e-als
and h
ay is
the c
limate
).
The g
oats’
diet
is ba
sed o
n hay
, gra
ss an
d cer
eals.
Si-
lage a
nd G
MO fe
ed ar
e not
allow
ed. A
ll the
prod
ucer
s pr
oduc
e the
ir own
hay,
and t
hree
also
grow
cere
als (in
the
futur
e this
prac
tice w
ill be
exten
ded t
o all o
f them
).
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
The c
hees
e was
mad
e usin
g tra
dition
al tec
hniqu
es. W
oode
n mold
s we
re us
ed.
The p
rotoc
ol en
sure
d tha
t the t
radit
ional
proc
essin
g sys
tem w
as
not c
hang
ed.
The s
ame t
radit
ional
techn
iques
are s
till us
ed fo
r the
ch
eese
makin
g. W
oode
n mold
s are
used
.
Envir
omen
tal S
usta
inab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
67
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
The c
hees
e was
kept
in ce
llars
until
it rea
ched
the r
ight m
aturity
. Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
hat th
e tra
dition
al ag
ing te
chniq
ue be
co
ntinu
ed.
The c
hees
e is a
ged i
n und
ergr
ound
cella
rs.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
NoVa
rious
mee
tings
wer
e held
with
the p
rodu
cers
to de
fine t
he
prod
uctio
n rule
s. Th
e dra
ft pro
tocol
is alm
ost fi
nishe
d. On
ce it
has
been
finali
zed,
the pr
otoco
l will
be si
gned
by al
l the
prod
ucer
s.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
ica-
tion o
f pro
duct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-
susta
inable
? Are
the
prod
uct’s
char
acter
is-tic
s pro
perly
desc
ribed
on
the l
abel?
Each
prod
ucer
had t
heir o
wn la
bel, b
ut no
pack
aging
. Th
e pro
duce
rs att
ende
d som
e cou
rses o
n sus
taina
ble pa
ckag
ing.
For e
xamp
le, at
Che
ese 2
011,
the P
resid
ium co
ordin
ator t
ook p
art
in the
confe
renc
e on l
abeli
ng he
ld by
Pier
o Sar
do, th
e pre
siden
t of
the S
low F
ood F
ound
ation
.
Ever
y pro
duce
r has
their
own l
abel,
but th
ey do
not
need
pack
aging
as th
e che
eses
are c
ut an
d wra
pped
at
the m
omen
t of s
ale. T
he pr
oduc
ers a
re w
orkin
g to
impr
ove t
he la
bel, i
ncre
asing
the a
moun
t of in
forma
tion
to re
ally t
ell th
e pro
duct’
s stor
y and
desc
ribe i
ts dis
tinc-
tive f
eatur
es. T
he ai
m is
to ha
ve th
e new
labe
l read
y for
Salo
ne de
l Gus
to 20
12.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
68
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
The m
ain ch
anne
l was
dire
ct sa
les, fr
om th
e far
m or
at lo
cal
marke
ts.
The p
rodu
cers
took p
art in
impo
rtant
even
ts, bo
th na
tiona
l (Sma
k-lus
t and
Sär
imne
r) an
d inte
rnati
onal.
The m
ain ch
anne
l rema
ins di
rect
sales
, but
awar
enes
s of
the pr
oduc
t and
its pr
estig
e hav
e inc
reas
ed.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
pr
oduc
ts loc
al, na
-tio
nal o
r inter
natio
nal?
Loca
l.Sl
ow F
ood p
romo
tes th
e Pre
sidium
prod
uct th
roug
h com
munic
a-tio
n to i
ts me
mber
s, on
its w
ebsit
e and
at ev
ents.
Th
e mar
ket is
princ
ipally
loca
l but
also n
ation
al an
d int
erna
tiona
l than
ks to
the p
rodu
cers’
partic
ipatio
n in
fairs
and e
vents
.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up?
Is it p
rofita
ble fo
r the
pr
oduc
ers?
25 eu
ros p
er ki
lo.
The P
resid
ium pr
omote
d the
prod
uct th
roug
h par
ticipa
tion i
n ev
ents
and c
ommu
nicati
on.
30 eu
ros p
er ki
lo.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly
distrib
uted a
nd do
the
y actu
ally r
each
the
hand
s of in
dividu
al pr
oduc
ers?
(NB
only
in ca
ses w
here
ther
e is
an as
socia
tion)
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pro
-du
ction
sinc
e the
es
tablis
hmen
t of th
e Pr
esidi
um? I
ndica
te the
initia
l and
curre
nt qu
antiti
es. If
ther
e has
no
t bee
n an i
ncre
ase,
is it c
onsid
ered
a re
strict
ion?
Betw
een 7
0 and
80 qu
intals
.Th
e pro
duce
rs de
cided
to co
ncen
trate
on im
prov
ing th
e pro
duc-
tion c
hain,
not in
creas
ing th
e volu
me pr
oduc
ed.
The v
olume
prod
uced
is m
ore o
r less
the s
ame a
s wh
en th
e Pre
sidium
was
star
ted, b
etwee
n 70 a
nd 80
qu
intals
.
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
69
Hungary - Mangalica SausageThe Mangalica pig breed (also called Mangaliza or Mangalitsa) was once found across Hungary and in bordering countries, particularly Romania. The corpulent Mangalica grows very slowly and cannot be kept in closed quar-ters. It is therefore poorly suited to modern industrial pig farms, and it has been gradually replaced by modern breeds. The pig is distinguished by its rich and curly coat, which is usually blond, sometimes black, and occasio-nally red. On the Hungarian plains, farmers raise Mangalica pigs free-range and feed them a mix of wild pasture, supplemented with potatoes and pumpkins produced on the farm. This flavorful pork can be braised slowly in the oven or cooked in stock. Sauerkraut, potatoes, and stuffed peppers are the usual accompaniments. Mangalica breeders also cure their own smoked hams and sausages according to traditional techniques. The sausage, the primary product made from this pig, is produced in various forms and sizes, but the most traditional type is packed in the pig’s duodenum and has a diameter of about three centimeters and a length that can reach 70 centimeters. To make the sausage, the meat is minced finely with the animal’s lard using an electric grinder and seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet paprika, and other spices, depending on the producer’s particular recipe. The sausages are stuffed into casings by hand and cold-smoked over an acacia- or oak-wood fire and are then left to age—ideally for at least two or three months. Traditionally, this cured sausage is eaten in slices accompanied by pickled vegetables such as cucumbers or peppers stuffed with cabbage. The sweet paprika used to season the sausage gives the final product a natural sweetness and a vibrant red color.Production Area: Kiskunsàg Region
70
Socia
l Sus
tain
abilit
ySU
B-CA
TEGO
RYPA
RAME
TERS
INIT
IAL
SITU
ATIO
NDE
SCRI
PTIO
N OF
ACT
IONS
CURR
ENT
SITU
ATIO
N
Cultu
ral id
entity
Wha
t is th
e cul-
tural
link w
ith th
e loc
al ar
ea? D
oes t
he
Pres
idium
pres
erve
tra
dition
al kn
owled
ge
or sk
ills? D
oes i
t pr
otect
nativ
e bre
eds
and t
radit
ional
plant
varie
ties?
The M
anga
lica p
ig br
eed (
also k
nown
as M
anga
liza o
r Man
galits
a)
was o
nce h
ighly
value
d and
foun
d acro
ss th
e Pan
nonin
an pl
ain,
partic
ularly
in H
unga
ry. It
is ch
arac
terize
d by i
ts un
mista
kable
thick
, cu
rly fle
ece,
usua
lly bl
ond,
white
, blac
k or o
ccas
ionall
y pink
. A
very
fat pi
g, it g
rows
slow
ly an
d can
not b
e kep
t in a
pigsh
ed, a
nd
is the
refor
e com
pletel
y inc
ompa
tible
with
indus
trial fa
rming
. Afte
r alm
ost b
ecom
e exti
nct, t
he br
eed w
as re
disco
vere
d at th
e end
of
the 19
90s t
hank
s to i
ts ex
celle
nt me
at, w
hich h
as a
high f
at co
ntent
but a
low
chole
stero
l leve
l. Far
ming
Man
galic
a pigs
beca
me a
prof-
itable
busin
ess,
even
outsi
de th
eir na
tive a
reas
. Unfo
rtuna
tely t
he
very
farme
rs’ as
socia
tion t
hat s
hould
have
prote
cted t
he M
anga
lica
appr
oved
the s
prea
d of c
ross
es w
ith th
e inte
rnati
onal
bree
d Lar
ge
Whit
e, wh
ich pr
oduc
ed an
imals
that
fatten
ed fa
ster (
reac
hing
slaug
hterin
g weig
ht in
8-10
mon
ths in
stead
of th
e tra
dition
al 18
-24
month
s).
Howe
ver, i
n the
Kisk
unsá
g Nati
onal
Park,
abou
t 50 k
ilome
ters f
rom
Buda
pest
in ce
ntral
Hung
ary,
some
small
-scale
farm
ers a
re ra
ising
pu
re-b
red M
anga
lica p
igs in
a se
mi-w
ild st
ate, s
upple
menti
ng th
eir
forag
e diet
with
natur
al foo
ds pr
oduc
ed by
the f
arm.
The s
mall-s
cale
prod
ucer
s in t
he K
iskun
ság N
ation
al Pa
rk joi
ned
togeth
er in
an as
socia
tion,
which
now
has o
rgan
ic ce
rtifica
tion.
The P
resid
ium is
helpi
ng th
em to
prom
ote th
eir pr
oduc
ts an
d dif
feren
tiate
them
from
indus
trial m
eat. T
he ai
m is
to gr
adua
lly
incre
ase t
he nu
mber
of an
imals
being
farm
ed an
d to c
ollab
o-ra
te wi
th oth
er H
unga
rian o
rgan
izatio
ns an
d far
ms w
orkin
g to
safeg
uard
this
bree
d.
The p
rodu
ct is
now
reco
gnize
d at a
loca
l and
natio
nal
level,
and i
s stro
ngly
identi
fied w
ith th
e loc
al cu
lture
an
d tra
dition
s. Th
e pro
duce
rs ha
ve in
creas
ed th
e num
-be
r of a
nimals
farm
ed, h
elping
to pr
eser
ve th
e bre
ed.
The g
roup
of pr
oduc
ers i
s wor
king t
o pro
mote
the lo
cal
area
, trad
itions
(bre
ad ba
king,
gastr
onom
y) an
d othe
r liv
estoc
k bre
eds.
Train
ing th
roug
h ex
chan
ges
Have
ther
e bee
n tra
ining
exch
ange
s be
twee
n the
Pr
esidi
um an
d othe
r en
tities
? Hav
e the
Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
trave
led, p
artic
ipated
in
even
ts, et
c.?
Befor
e the
star
t of th
e Pre
sidium
, the p
rodu
cers
had n
ever
partic
i-pa
ted in
loca
l, nati
onal
or in
terna
tiona
l eve
nts.
Sinc
e its
estab
lishm
ent, t
he P
resid
ium ha
s tak
en pa
rt in
traini
ng
activ
ities a
nd ex
chan
ges w
ith pr
oduc
ers a
nd S
low F
ood m
embe
rs fro
m the
Terra
Mad
re ne
twor
k in T
usca
ny. A
serie
s of v
isits
by
Slow
Foo
d’s te
chnic
al sta
ff help
ed to
iden
tify th
e pro
ject’s
chal-
lenge
s and
poten
tial. T
he P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers h
ave r
egula
rly
partic
ipated
in at
leas
t one
inter
natio
nal e
vent
a yea
r, inc
luding
Sa
lone d
el Gu
sto an
d Ter
ra M
adre
(Tur
in), w
ith a
stand
whe
re
they c
an pr
esen
t and
sell t
heir p
rodu
cts.
The p
rodu
cers
have
acqu
ired a
grea
ter fa
milia
rity w
ith
the na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal m
arke
t, buil
ding u
p a
netw
ork o
f con
tacts
and l
earn
ing th
e bes
t way
to pr
es-
ent th
eir pr
oduc
t. The
Pre
sidium
is an
integ
ral p
art o
f the
Terra
Mad
re ne
twor
k in T
usca
ny.
Form
al or
ganiz
ation
Does
an or
ganiz
a-tio
nal fo
rm ex
ist or
ha
s it b
een c
reate
d?
How
are p
eople
’s ro
les de
fined
?
Ther
e was
no fo
rm of
orga
nizati
on.
Than
ks to
the w
ork o
f the l
ocal
coor
dinato
r and
the S
low F
ood
Foun
datio
n, a n
umbe
r of m
eetin
gs w
ere o
rgan
ized w
ith th
e far
m-er
s with
the a
im of
crea
ting a
n ass
ociat
ion.
The f
arme
rs ar
e join
ed to
gethe
r in th
e Kisk
unsá
gi Ha
gyom
ányő
rző E
gyes
ület a
ssoc
iation
and h
ave
obtai
ned o
rgan
ic ce
rtifica
tion.
3.1 G
roup
demo
cracy
Do
all th
e mem
bers
activ
ely pa
rticipa
te?No
Meeti
ngs w
ere o
rgan
ized t
o disc
uss t
he pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol wi
th the
prod
ucer
s.
The p
rodu
cers
meet
seve
ral ti
mes a
year
to di
scus
s the
iss
ues l
inked
to pr
oduc
tion a
nd to
orga
nize p
romo
tion
togeth
er.
3.2 G
roup
demo
cracy
Does
the P
resid
ium
involv
e you
ng pe
ople?
In
what
way?
No
No, b
ut it i
s one
of th
e pro
ject’s
objec
tives
.
3.3 G
roup
demo
cracy
W
hat k
ind of
mod
el is
used
for t
he di
stribu
-tio
n of p
ower
? (eg
ali-
tarian
, cen
traliz
ed,
horiz
ontal
, ver
tical,
etc
.)
The p
rodu
cers
were
not o
rgan
ized,
and t
here
was
no de
cision
-ma
king s
tructu
re.
With
the f
ound
ing of
the a
ssoc
iation
, the p
rodu
cers
starte
d mee
t-ing
regu
larly.
The
Pre
sidium
coor
dinato
r, also
a far
mer, p
lays a
n irr
eplac
eable
role
in pr
omoti
ng th
e pro
duct
and g
uara
ntees
that
the pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol is
being
follo
wed c
orre
ctly.
The P
resid
ium fa
rmer
s par
ticipa
te in
the de
cision
-ma
king p
roce
ss, b
ut mo
st of
the re
spon
sibilit
y still
falls
on
the c
oord
inator
. One
of th
e pro
ject’s
objec
tives
is to
en
sure
mor
e par
ticipa
tory m
anag
emen
t.
71
3.4 G
roup
demo
cracy
Are t
here
oppo
rtuni-
ties f
or pa
rticipa
tion?
NoTh
e Pre
sidium
crea
ted an
asso
ciatio
n of p
rodu
cers.
The P
resid
ium’s
activ
ities i
nclud
e the
orga
nizati
on of
re
gular
mee
tings
amon
g the
asso
ciatio
n’s fa
rmer
s.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
nsDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve re
lation
ships
wi
th loc
al ins
titutio
ns?
Wha
t kind
?
NoTh
e pro
motio
nal a
ctivit
ies ca
rried
out a
t a na
tiona
l and
inter
na-
tiona
l leve
l hav
e con
vince
d the
may
ors o
f town
s in t
he pa
rk to
supp
ort th
e pro
ject -
in pa
rticula
r sch
ool e
duca
tion a
ctivit
ies th
at ar
e org
anize
d and
run b
y the
farm
ers.
The P
resid
ium ha
s the
supp
ort o
f the m
ayor
s of to
wns
locate
d in t
he pa
rk as
well
as th
e sch
ools
in the
area
.
Relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
Sl
ow F
ood n
etwor
kDo
es th
e Pre
sidium
ha
ve a
relat
ionsh
ip wi
th the
loca
l, nati
onal
and i
ntern
ation
al Sl
ow
Food
netw
ork?
NoSi
nce i
ts cre
ation
, the P
resid
ium ha
s par
ticipa
ted in
train
ing ac
tivi-
ties a
nd ex
chan
ges w
ith pr
oduc
ers a
nd S
low F
ood m
embe
rs fro
m the
Terra
Mad
re ne
twor
k in T
usca
ny. In
2007
, som
e of th
e Pre
-sid
ium pr
oduc
ers s
tarted
the S
low F
ood K
iskun
ság C
onviv
ium,
and s
ince t
hen t
hey h
ave b
een a
ctive
ly inv
olved
in S
low F
ood
activ
ities i
n Hun
gary.
The P
resid
ium is
part
of the
Terra
Mad
re ne
twor
k in
Tusc
any a
nd is
activ
ely in
volve
d in S
low F
ood’s
activ
i-tie
s in H
unga
ry.
Pride
and s
ocial
grati
-fic
ation
Are t
he pr
oduc
ers
appre
ciated
with
in the
co
mmun
ity an
d had
any
perso
nal g
ratific
ation
as
a res
ult? H
as th
eir so
cial
role c
hang
ed an
d bee
n str
ength
ened
?
Farm
ing w
as st
ill se
en as
an in
ferior
, old-
fashio
ned o
ccup
ation
in
Hung
ary,
of litt
le int
eres
t to yo
unge
r gen
erati
ons.
Th
e pro
duce
rs too
k par
t in m
any i
ntern
ation
al ev
ents;
the n
ation
al an
d inte
rnati
onal
pres
s ded
icated
muc
h atte
ntion
to th
em; a
nd
artic
les an
d bro
chur
es w
ere p
ublis
hed.
Some
prod
ucer
s par
tici-
pated
in co
nfere
nces
and s
emina
rs.
The g
roup
of P
resid
ium fa
rmer
s is m
ore m
otiva
ted an
d the
y play
an im
porta
nt so
cial a
nd cu
ltura
l role
in the
ir ar
ea.
Know
ledge
tran
smis-
sion
Are t
here
horiz
ontal
(b
etwee
n Pre
-sid
ium pr
oduc
ers)
and v
ertic
al (b
etwee
n Pr
esidi
um pr
oduc
ers
and t
he co
mmun
ity)
forms
of kn
owled
ge
trans
miss
ion? H
ow is
kn
owled
ge tr
ansm
it-ted
(at e
vents
and
confe
renc
es, e
very
day)?
Has
the g
roup
ex
pand
ed? A
re th
ey
netw
orke
d with
othe
r gr
oups
?
Each
of th
e pro
duce
rs in
the in
itial g
roup
used
their
own r
ecipe
to
make
Man
galic
a sau
sage
. Th
e par
ticipa
tory a
ctivit
y of d
raftin
g the
prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
helpe
d to d
efine
the c
hara
cteris
tics t
hat d
isting
uish t
he pr
oduc
t, re
pres
entin
g a tr
ansm
ission
of kn
owled
ge am
ong t
he pr
oduc
ers.
Vario
us sc
hool
educ
ation
activ
ities w
ere o
rgan
ized t
o spr
ead
awar
enes
s abo
ut thi
s bre
ed an
d its
prod
ucts
to yo
unge
r gen
era-
tions
.
Know
ledge
abou
t the a
rea a
nd th
e pro
duct
is sh
ared
am
ong p
rodu
cers
and t
he in
terna
tiona
l and
loca
l co
mmun
ity (S
low F
ood c
onviv
ia, co
oks,
journ
alists
, sc
hoolc
hildr
en. e
tc.).
Educ
ation
al as
pects
Does
the P
resid
ium
orga
nize o
r par
ticipa
te in
educ
ation
al ac
tivi-
ties?
NoIn
2010
and 2
011 t
he P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers o
rgan
ized e
duca
tiona
l ev
ents
with
scho
olchil
dren
in th
e Kisk
unsá
g Par
k, wi
th the
aim
of tea
ching
the c
hildr
en ab
out w
ork o
n the
farm
and t
heir o
wn
gastr
onom
ic tra
dition
s.
Arou
nd a
hund
red c
hildr
en a
year
have
the c
hanc
e to
get to
know
this
prod
uct a
nd its
terri
tory.
SUB-
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Defin
ition o
f sub
jects
and P
rodu
ctio
n Are
aW
ho ar
e the
prod
uc-
ers,
how
many
are
there
and w
here
are
they?
10 fa
rmer
s and
prod
ucer
sAf
ter th
e first
year
s of a
ctivit
y, fou
r new
prod
ucer
s join
ed th
e pr
oject.
14
farm
ers a
nd pr
oduc
ers
Loca
l asp
ects
Wha
t doe
s the
Pre
-sid
ium do
to pr
otect
the lo
cal e
cosy
stem?
(e
.g. pr
omoti
ng bi
odi-
versi
ty in
gene
ral, a
l-low
ing th
e rec
over
y of
pastu
res a
nd m
argin
al zo
nes,
etc.)
Thou
gh th
e pro
duce
rs we
re no
t org
anize
d, the
ir far
ming
and
prod
uctio
n sys
tems w
ere t
radit
ional
and s
ustai
nable
. Th
e Pre
sidium
did n
ot ne
ed to
chan
ge th
e pro
ducti
on sy
stem
to im
prov
e its
susta
inabil
ity. It
was
mor
e a qu
estio
n of p
rese
rving
the
work
the pr
oduc
ers w
ere a
lread
y doin
g, sp
ecify
ing en
viron
men-
tally
friend
ly pr
actic
es in
the p
rotoc
ol an
d also
star
ting t
he or
ganic
ce
rtifica
tion p
roce
ss.
The P
resid
ium ca
rries
out a
n ess
entia
l role
in pr
otect-
ing th
e Man
galic
a bre
ed an
d pro
motin
g sus
taina
ble
farmi
ng th
at re
spec
ts an
imal
welfa
re an
d pre
serve
s the
en
viron
ment
The p
rodu
cers
grow
the c
rops
for t
he pi
gs’
diet o
rgan
ically
.
Wate
r use
Yes/N
o. If y
es, h
ow is
wa
ter m
anag
ed?
NoNo
Chem
ical fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Orga
nic fe
rtilize
rsYe
s/No.
If yes
, wha
t kin
d and
how
much
?No
No
Crop
prote
ction
Wha
t pro
ducts
are
used
?No
No
Type
of en
ergy
used
Does
the P
resid
ium
use r
enew
able
en-
ergy
?
NoNo
Seed
acqu
isitio
nHo
w ar
e see
ds
acqu
ired?
Are
they
bo
ught
or re
pro-
duce
d?
One o
f the i
ngre
dients
in th
e rec
ipe fo
r Man
galic
a sau
sage
is lo
cal
papr
ika. E
ach p
rodu
cer p
rodu
ced t
heir o
wn se
eds f
or th
e pep
pers
grow
n to m
ake t
he pa
prika
.
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
s the
conti
nuati
on of
the
use o
f pep
pers
grow
n on t
he fa
rm by
the f
arme
rs the
mselv
es.
The p
aprik
a con
tinue
s to b
e gro
wn by
each
Pre
sidium
pr
oduc
er us
ing su
staina
ble pr
actic
es.
Rotat
ionYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Inter
cropp
ingYe
s/No.
If yes
, with
wh
at cro
ps?
Type
of fa
rming
and
anim
al we
lfare
Is the
farm
ing su
stain-
able?
Wha
t atte
ntion
is
paid
to an
imal
welfa
re?
The p
ure-
bred
Man
galic
a pigs
wer
e far
med i
n a se
mi-w
ild st
ate.
The s
ows h
ad pe
ns w
ith ha
y bed
ding a
nd w
ere p
rotec
ted fr
om
sour
ces o
f nois
e.
The P
resid
ium pr
otoco
l spe
cified
the c
ontin
uatio
n of th
e sam
e ca
re fo
r anim
al we
lfare
. Th
e pigs
are r
aised
outdo
ors a
nd ke
pt in
close
d pe
ns on
ly oc
casio
nally
. The
spac
es av
ailab
le to
them
(fenc
ed pa
sture
s and
wate
r pon
ds) a
re su
itable
and
guar
antee
resp
ect fo
r anim
al we
lfare
.
Anim
al die
tW
hat is
the c
ompo
si-tio
n of th
e fee
d?
Does
it co
ntain
silag
e, GM
Os, e
tc.?
Almo
st all
of th
e anim
al fee
d was
prod
uced
on th
e far
ms.
Th
e pro
tocol
does
not o
blige
new
prod
ucer
s to p
rodu
ce al
l of th
e ra
w ma
terial
s for
the f
eed o
n the
ir far
m, bu
t it do
es sp
ecify
the
quali
ty of
the di
et an
d org
anic
certifi
catio
n for
the f
eed.
The d
iet of
the P
resid
ium pi
gs is
base
d on g
rains
(cor
n, ba
rley,
whea
t) an
d gre
en fo
rage
and fi
ber a
lfalfa
hay i
n the
wint
er, al
l stric
tly or
ganic
. The
use o
f sila
ge or
GMO
fee
d is n
ever
allow
ed.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
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ITIA
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Envir
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usta
inab
ility
73
Proc
essin
gYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e tec
hniqu
e artis
anal?
Yes,
their p
roce
ssing
tech
nique
was
artis
anal.
The p
rotoc
ol sp
ecifie
d tha
t trad
itiona
l pro
cess
ing te
chniq
ues b
e co
ntinu
ed.
Prod
uctio
n is a
rtisan
al an
d doe
s not
allow
the u
se of
nit
rites,
nitra
tes an
d thic
kene
rs.
Prod
uct p
rese
rvatio
nYe
s/No.
If yes
, is th
e pr
oces
sing t
echn
ique
artis
anal?
Yes,
the pr
eser
vatio
n tec
hniqu
e was
artis
anal.
Th
e pro
tocol
spec
ified t
hat tr
aditio
nal p
rese
rvatio
n tec
hniqu
es be
ma
intain
ed.
The p
rese
rvatio
n inv
olves
smok
ing ov
er a
wood
fire
and a
ging i
n natu
ral c
ellar
s.
Prod
uctio
n pro
tocol
Are t
here
any
spec
ificati
ons?
Are
the
y sha
red?
Are
they
ap
plied
? Are
they
eff
ectiv
e?
NoSl
ow F
ood t
echn
ical s
taff v
isit th
e Pre
sidium
to he
lp dr
aft th
e pr
oduc
tion p
rotoc
ol, w
hich w
as si
gned
by al
l the p
rodu
cers.
Ye
s, the
re is
a sh
ared
proto
col.
Pack
ing/co
mmun
icatio
n of
prod
uct
Is the
re an
y pac
kag-
ing? I
s it e
co-su
stain-
able?
Are
the p
rod-
uct’s
char
acter
istics
pr
oper
ly de
scrib
ed on
the
labe
l?
The p
rodu
ct wa
s not
pack
aged
and i
t was
sold
witho
ut a l
abel.
Partic
ipatio
n in m
any i
ntern
ation
al ev
ents
conv
inced
the p
rodu
c-er
s to fi
nd a
suita
ble pa
ckag
ing so
lution
for t
he oc
casio
ns w
hen
sellin
g outs
ide th
eir lo
cal a
rea,
and t
o imp
rove
the l
abeli
ng of
the
prod
uct.
The s
ausa
ges a
re on
ly pa
ckag
ed fo
r sell
ing at
even
ts,
and p
lastic
pack
aging
is st
ill us
ed. A
logo
has b
een c
re-
ated,
which
is cl
early
visib
le on
the p
ackin
g, co
ntaini
ng
infor
matio
n abo
ut the
Pre
sidium
and t
he pr
oduc
er. T
he
Pres
idium
cure
d mea
ts ha
ve an
orga
nic br
andin
g.
SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
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OF A
CTIO
NSCU
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T SI
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ION
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SUB-
CATE
GORY
PARA
METE
RSIN
ITIA
L SI
TUAT
ION
DESC
RIPT
ION
OF A
CTIO
NSCU
RREN
T SI
TUAT
ION
Shor
t dist
ributi
on ch
ainDo
the P
resid
ium pr
o-du
cers
sell d
irectl
y? If
yes,
how
and w
here
? Do
they
partic
ipate
in Sl
ow F
ood E
arth
Marke
ts? A
re th
ere
many
inter
media
ries
betw
een t
he pr
oduc
-er
s and
cons
umer
s?
All s
ales w
ere d
irectl
y fro
m the
farm
.
The P
resid
ium pa
rticipa
tes re
gular
ly in
inter
natio
nal S
low F
ood
even
ts an
d man
y othe
r eve
nts or
ganiz
ed in
Hun
gary
by th
e ne
twor
k of S
low F
ood m
embe
rs. S
ome p
rodu
cers
have
been
in
conta
ct wi
th int
erme
diarie
s who
sell o
n a na
tiona
l and
inter
na-
tiona
l sca
le.
Dire
ct sa
les (f
rom
the fa
rm an
d at e
vents
) still
play
a pr
imar
y role
. Som
e far
mers
use s
mall-s
cale
inter
medi-
aries
to in
creas
e the
ir sale
s volu
me.
Sales
and m
arke
ting
Is the
mar
ket fo
r the
prod
ucts
local,
na
tiona
l or in
terna
-tio
nal?
Loca
l and
infor
mal.
The p
rodu
cers
prim
arily
sell d
irectl
y fro
m the
ir far
ms. T
hey a
lso
sell w
hen p
artic
ipatin
g in i
ntern
ation
al an
d nati
onal
Slow
Foo
d ev
ents.
The m
arke
t con
tinue
s to b
e prim
arily
loca
l, but
with
a gr
owing
natio
nal a
nd in
terna
tiona
l sha
re.
Sales
price
Wha
t is th
e sale
s pr
ice? H
as it
gone
up
? Is i
t pro
fitable
for
the pr
oduc
ers?
15 eu
ros a
kilo
The P
resid
ium pr
oduc
ers c
arrie
d out
vario
us pr
omoti
on ac
tivitie
s at
a loc
al, na
tiona
l and
inter
natio
nal le
vel.
Arou
nd 21
euro
s a ki
lo. T
he pr
ice is
profi
table
for th
e pr
oduc
ers,
but it
will
be ne
cess
ary t
o fur
ther in
creas
e sa
les vo
lumes
.
Fair d
istrib
ution
of
incom
eAr
e pro
fits fa
irly di
s-trib
uted a
nd do
they
ac
tually
reac
h the
ha
nds o
f indiv
idual
prod
ucer
s? (N
B on
ly in
case
s whe
re th
ere
is an
asso
ciatio
n)
Each
prod
ucer
sold
their o
wn pr
oduc
ts.
The a
ctivit
ies of
the P
resid
ium as
socia
tion d
o not
includ
e org
aniz-
ing co
llecti
ve sa
les of
the p
rodu
ct.
Each
prod
ucer
sells
their
own p
rodu
cts.
Prod
uctio
n qua
ntity
Has t
here
been
an
incre
ase i
n pr
oduc
tion s
ince t
he
estab
lishm
ent o
f the
Pres
idium
? Ind
icate
the in
itial a
nd cu
rrent
quan
tities
. If th
ere h
as
not b
een a
n inc
reas
e, is
it con
sider
ed a
restr
iction
?
It is n
ot po
ssibl
e to d
eterm
ine th
e init
ial pr
oduc
tion q
uanti
ty.
3 t
ons (
of Ma
ngali
ca sa
usag
e alon
e). T
here
has b
een
a sma
ll inc
reas
e in p
rodu
ction
. Com
petiti
on ha
s bee
n a
major
prob
lem, a
s the
re is
still
an is
sue w
ith di
ffer-
entia
ting t
he pr
oduc
t from
pure
-bre
d Man
galic
a pigs
an
d pro
ducts
from
othe
r, lar
ger f
arms
that
raise
hybr
id Ma
ngali
ca pi
gs an
d hav
e low
er pr
oduc
tion c
osts.
Econ
omic
Sust
ainab
ility
75
ConclusionsThis monitoring of the ten Presidia represents the first phase of a larger project Slow Food intends to implement around the issue of sustainable development. The starting point will be the expansion of the concept of sustainability to factors external to the agro-environmental and economic aspects, but closely connected to them, like the socio-cultural aspect that has contributed to forming the agro-ecosystem over time and currently guarantees its preservation. In brief, this means putting humans back at the center of the system. It means giving anyone who works in agriculture a strong sense of responsibility and the possibility of choice, a possibility often obscured by new agricultural systems that offer “closed” technological packages to farmers and fishers, expropriating their knowledge.
An overall analysis of the ten monitoring grids shows that the Presidia project offers the ideal terrain for triggering processes to encourage self-esteem among producers, new relationships with consumers (or rather, co-producers) and a stronger link between production and place. All the case studies reveal strong growth over the years of the individual gratification of producers, who have now become aware of the importance of their work and the role they play in protecting the biodiversity of their local area.
The Presidia producers participate in many local, national and international events and the media is dedicating ever more attention to them. Over the years, they have developed an increasingly close rela-tionship with the Slow Food network, which has allowed not only the promotion of products and produ-cers, but above all has incentivized the exchange of knowledge between producers, between producers and consumers and between producers and local organizations and institutions.
This is the case with the collaborations the Presidia for Jämtland Cellar Matured Goat Cheese in Sweden and the Wiesenwienerwald Chequer Tree in Austria have initiated with local universities. Environmental and food education activities aimed at schoolchildren (see for example, the Smiylan Beans Presidium in Bulgaria) also encourage the intergenerational exchange of knowledge, a fundamental prerequisite for the birth of a new vision of development. Also in terms of generations, it is particularly interesting to note how improved economic and social conditions have meant that many Presidia (like Santo Stefano di Sessanio Lentil and Heritage Bitto in Italy and Aged Artisanal Gouda in the Netherlands) have been able to involve younger generations, not only in family businesses but also as fully-fledged Presidium produ-cers. In some cases young people also hold key positions in the association, as in the Bucegi Mountains Branza de Burduf Presidium in Romania, where a young man coordinates the group of producers.
Another interesting aspect that emerges from the monitoring is how the activities organized by producers are not only focused on safeguarding plant ecotypes or native animal breeds, but also the protection and promotion of the environment and landscape. This is evident in Presidia that persevere in particularly fragile environments, like high-altitude pastures (e.g. Heritage Bitto in Italy) or small islands (Salina Ca-per in Italy). In these cases, attention to the concentration of animals on pastures or the renovation of dry stone wall terracing not only bring excellent results for the producers but also carry out the important social function of proper environmental management. Once again, they highlight the irreplaceable value of the multifunctionality of farms and the role of producers as environmental custodians.
Still considering the environmental aspect, it is worth emphasizing how the process of consultation
76
between producers and experts to draft production and processing protocols has allowed a significant step forward in establishing more sustainable cultivation systems than in the past. These new systems include better water management, more logical soil fertilization and a reduced use of synthetic chemi-cals. This participatory vision of decision-making has, for example, led the Mangalica Sausage Presi-dium in Hungary to organically grow the crops used to feed the pigs.
The optimization of farming techniques, a common feature of all ten case studies, has not always led to an increase in production quantities. In fact, this was often not the prime objective. In many cases (Heritage Bitto in Italy, Jämtland Cellar Matured Goat Cheese in Sweden, Smiylan Beans in Bulgaria, Limpurg Cattle in Germany), the focus was on the improvement of quality, with a resulting reduction in quantity. The increase in the quantity of the product now on the market for some Presidia (Salina Caper and Santo Stefano di Sessanio Lentil in Italy, Bucegi Mountains Branza de Burduf in Romania) is ac-tually due to an increase in surface area and a return to production, farming or processing by producers who had previously abandoned the “old” products, discouraged by the market conditions before the establishment of the Presidium, and had been farming or producing new products using new systems.
Unquestionably the agricultural world that joined Slow Food in gambling on the possibility of looking to tradition and ancient knowledge to create sustainable agricultural systems has been rewarded by consumers. These co-producers have shown themselves willing to spend a little more in order to have high-quality products. In all ten cases, we can see an increase in the retail price, justified by the reduced productivity of the systems and their perseverance in difficult areas.
It is also evident that the producers had the opportunity to learn how to market their products, telling their stories and describing their local areas, embracing and supporting the idea that quality is a narrative. This is why all the forms of direct sales, on the farm or at markets and local events, have had such suc-cess. Lastly, it is evident that the collaboration between Presidia producers has led to the strengthening or formation of associations in which the farmers can work together on everything to do with product marketing and in some cases make an initial attempt at communal selling. The weak point in all the case studies is clearly the issue of packaging, where there is still much progress to be made.
Having defined the scope of the system in this initial monitoring—a system primarily based on interviews with producers—the Presidia project will now reflect further on its sustainability through the construction of a system of “weighted” indicators, able to succinctly provide useful information about very complex phenomena. The descriptive and measurement indicators of sustainability will be able to assist com-prehension of the correlations between different local and global phenomena, identifying and analyzing in a systematic way the changes, trends and key problems, to promote a long- to medium-term strategy and finally to support the decisional processes of businesses and associations.
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