What does the word culture mean

Contents:

Objectives______________________________________2Chapter I- It's a Historical World The history of standard clothing sizes________________ 3Terminology____________________________________4Types of measurements in standard sizes______________5Chapter II- It's a Standard WorldISO Standards___________________________________6The european standards organization_________________ 7National standards________________________________8Chapter 3- It's a Systemized WorldSizing codes for women__________________________ 10Sizing codes for men_____________________________11Conclusion____________________________________12Vocabulary____________________________________13Bibliography__________________________________ 14

Objectives:

To overview of the history of standard clothing sizes To describe the terminology To identify the types of measurements in standard sizes To overview the sizing codes for women To overview the sizing codes for men To express my own point of view

Chapter 1 Its a Historical World The History of standard clothing sizesThe standard sizing system that we use today (which breaks clothes down into buckets like small, medium, large and extra-large) was initially created in the 1800s to meet the demand for uniforms for soldiers fighting in the Civil War. Initially soldiers uniforms were custom-made because, well, thats how clothes were made in the 1800s. As the Civil War continued and demand for uniforms grew manufacturers decided it would be more efficient to build factories to mass produce clothing.Now rather than having a different size garment specifically made for each soldier, soldiers were grouped into four different size categories, small, medium, large and extra-large. While this only fit 25% of soldiers just right, it didnt matter if the fit was a bit off for everyone else, as long as they could pick a size and the uniform fit okay they were ready to head-into battle. The idea was simple, fit didnt matter, making uniforms as quickly as possible did.Mass producing womens clothing took a slower path since the demand was much lower women werent fighting in the Civil War. In fact, womens clothing continued to be mostly custom-made until the 1920s. Then as the processes for mass production improved and cities grew, an urban professional class started to develop and soon womens clothing started to follow the path of mass production.Fast forward a century later, its 2015 and now people shop for just about everything online, except for clothes. Only 14% of people buy clothes online, 86% still shop for their clothes in physical stores. Why is that? The sizing system from the 1800s doesnt apply today, at Fashion Metric we build technologies that eliminate the ambiguity of the size.

TerminologyProviding clothing that fits the population is a critical issue for any designer and manufacturer of apparel.There is no common agreement on terminology to describe the methods or systems that have been developed to provide a range of sizes to fit the population. For the purposes of this set of documents a sizing system will be defined as a set of sizes derived using common assumptions and methods of development, and size categories within a system will be defined as the various groupings of sizes as they would be presented in a retail situation. Thus the sizing system most commonly used for ready-to-wear in the United States makes use of a base size, often fitted to a fit model, and a set of sizes proportionately graded from this size. Examples of size categories include petite sizes, plus sizes, etc. The foundation and concepts behind these proportional sizing systems are derived from 19th century tailor's drafting techniques. The technological advancements in sewing equipment, mass cutting technologies, distribution technologies, and mass production methods that were made about the same time contributed to the development of ready-to-wear using this sizing system as we know it today. Different technologies and methods of producing and distributing clothing make it possible to develop sizing systems based on entirely different concepts. A sizing system can be as simple as one-fits-all or SML, or as complex as a system that provides a custom fitted garment for each individual.

Types of measurements in standard sizesStandard sizes take into account the combinations of body measurements of the general population: Horizontal torso measurements include the neck circumference, the shoulder width, the bustline measurements over-bust circumference, the full bust circumference, the bust-point separation, and the under-bust circumference the natural waist circumference, the upper hip circumference and the lower hip circumference.

Vertical torso measurements include the back (neck-waist) length, the shoulder-waist length (not the same as the back length, due to the slope of the shoulder), the bust-shoulder length, the bust-waist length, and the two hip-waist lengths. Sleeve measurementsHowever, because of the drape and ease of the fabric, not all measurements are required to obtain a well-fitting dress in most styles.

Chapter 2 Its a Standard World ISO StandardsThere are several ISO standards related to Size designation of clothes:ISO 3635:1981 Size designation of clothes Definitions and body measurement procedureISO 3636: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Mens and boys outerwear garments.ISO 3637: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Womens and girls outerwear garments.ISO 3638: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Infants garments.ISO 4415: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Mens and boys underwear, nightwear and shirts.ISO 4416: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Womens and girls underwear, nightwear, foundation garments and shirts.ISO 4417: 1977, Size designation of clothes - Headwear.ISO 4418: 1978, Size designation of clothes - Gloves.ISO 5971: 1981, Size designation of clothes - Pantyhose.ISO 7070: 1982, Size designation of clothes - Hosiery.ISO 8559:1989 Garment construction and anthropometric surveys Body dimensionsISO/TR 10652:1991 Standard sizing systems for clothes

The European Standards Organisation (CEN)The European Standards Organisation (CEN) has also produced a series of standards, prefixed with a EN 13402:EN 13402-1: Terms, definitions and body measurement procedureEN 13402-2: Primary and secondary dimensionsEN 134023: Size designation of clothes. Body measurements and intervals (2004)EN 13402-4: Coding system (2006)Intended to replace the existing national standards of the 33 member states. It is currently in common use for children's clothing, but not yet for adults. The third standard EN 13402-3 seeks to address the problem of irregular or Vanity sizing through offering a SI unit based labelling system, which will ALSO pictographically describe the dimensions a garment is designed to fit, per the ISO 3635 standard.The United Kingdom has an existing standard for women's clothing BS 3666:1982, however this is rarely followed by manufacturers as it defines sizes in terms of hip and bust measurements only within a limited range. This has resulted in variations between manufacturers and a tendency towards vanity sizing. Similarly a standard for men exists: BS 6185:1982 Specification for size designation of men's wearSlovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia and Serbia. still use the JUS (F.G0.001 1979, F.G0.002 1979, F.G0.003 1979) standards developed in the former Yugoslavia. In addition to typical girth measurements clothing is also marked to identify which of 5 height bands: X-Short, Short, Medium, Tall, X-Tall, and body types: Slim, Normal, or Full.

National StandardsNumerous other national standards exist e.g. Australia:L9 - Womens clothing - Apparel Manufacturers Association of NSW - 1959-1970AS1344-1972, 1975, 1997 Size coding scheme for womens clothingAS1182 - 1980 - Size coding scheme for infants and children's clothing China:GB 1335-81GB/T 1335.1-2008 Size designation of clothes - MenGB/T 1335.2-2008 Size designation of clothes - WomenGB/T 1335.3-2008 Size designation of clothes - ChildrenGB/T 2668-2002 Sizes for coats, jackets and trousersGB/T 14304-2002 Sizes for woolen garments FranceAFNOR NF G 03-001 (1977) - Human body - Vocabulary - Pictogram;AFNOR EXP G 03-002 (1977) - Women MeasuresAFNOR EXP G 03-003 (1977) - Men MeasuresAFNOR EXP G 03-006 (1978) - Measures of babies and young childrenAFNOR EXP G 03-007 (1977) - Size designation of clothes for men, women and childrenAFNOR NF G 03-008 (1984) - Tights - Sizes - Designation - Marking Germany: DOB-Verband (1983). Japan:JIS L 4001 (1997) Sizing systems for infants' garmentsJIS L 4002 (1997) Sizing systems for boys' garmentsJIS L 4003 (1997) Sizing systems for girls' garmentsJIS L 4004 (1997) Sizing systems for men's garmentsJIS L 4005 (1997) Sizing systems for women's garmentsJIS L 4006 (1997) Sizing systems for foundation garmentsJIS L 4007 (1997) Sizing systems for Hosiery and Pantyhose Korea:KS K 0050 (2009) Mens wearKS K 0051 (2004) Women's wearKS K 0052 InfantsKS K 0059 HeadgearKS K 0070 BrassiereKS K 0037 Dress ShirtsKS K 0088 Socks Russian Federation:GOST R 53230-2008 (ISO 4415-1981) Size designation of clothes. Men's and boy's underwear, nightwear and shirts Thailand: Wacoal (1981, 1987) US:CS-151-50 - Infants, Babies, Toddlers and Children's clothingCS 215-58 - Women's Clothing (1958)PS 36-70 - Boys Clothing (1971)PS 42-70 Women's Clothing (1971)PS 45-71 - Young Men's clothing,PS 54-72 - Girls Clothing

Chapter3 Its a Systemized World Sizing codes for women

Italian sizes (ITA)Dress sizes are calculated as follows:Standard dress size = (Bust Circumference cm / 2)French sizes (FRA/BEL)Dress sizes are calculated as follows:Standard dress size = (Bust Circumference cm / 2) - 4Germanic sizes (DEU/AUT/NTH/SWE/DNK)Dress sizes are calculated as follows:Standard dress size (Height 164170 cm) = (Bust Circumference cm / 2) - 6Short dress sizes (Height 170 cm) = Standard dress size * 2 Sizing codes for men

French sizes (FRA/BEL)Chest / Suit sizes are calculated as follows:Standard Size Code = (Chest Circumference cm + 1) / 2Germanic sizes (AT/DE/NL/DK/SE/FI)Chest / Suit sizes are calculated as follows:Standard Size Code = (Chest Circumference cm 1) / 2Short / Stocky = Standard Size Code / 2Portly = Standard Size Code + 1Tall / Lean = (Standard Size Code - 1) * 2

Conclusion:

Does one size really fit all? No, one size fits anybody.In one store, youre a Size 4, in another a Size 8, and in another a Size 10.Of course, if youre going to buy clothes, you want them to be the correct size. Sometimes this means you have to try things on. At other times, you might be able to pick out your usual size and just eyeball the garment to make sure it looks like itll fit.One size fits all is a phrase used to describe pieces of clothing or accessories designed to fit all people. Over time, it has also been used to refer to anything meant to apply in all circumstances.In reality, one size obviously cannot fit all people. People come in so many shapes and sizes that it would be impossible to design something that would truly fit all people. Most one size fits all items are actually designed to fit most average people

VocabularyDemand- cerereCustom-made- la comandaPath-caleAssumption-presupunerePetite-micDraft-proiectDue-datorieFoundation garments-lenjerieHosiery- cioraparieSurveys-ancheteIntended-destinatVanity-ambitie neintemeiata, orgoliuGirth- circumferintaDesignation-denumire, indicatorTights-colantiHeadgear-acoperamint de capBrassiere- brasiera, sutienToddler-copil micStocky-indesat, plin, presatPortly-corpolent, voinicLean-sarac

Bibliography:

http://www.teenink.com/opinion/pop_culture_trends/article/111943/Since-When-Does-Size-Matter/http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/25/business/25sizing.html?_r=0http://www.cracked.com/blog/the-7-most-baffling-things-about-womens-clothes/http://www.sizeguide.net/womens-clothing-sizes-international-conversion-chart.htmlhttp://www.asos.com/women/dresses-size-guide/?szgid=1&r=2http://blog.fashionmetric.com/a-brief-history-of-standard-apparel-sizing/http://fashionlawwiki.pbworks.com/w/page/11611137/A%20History%20of%20Standard%20Clothing%20Sizes%3A%20How%20sizes%20developed%20and%20why%20the%20same%20size%20does%20not%20always%20fithttp://time.com/3532014/women-clothing-sizes-history/http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/design/2012/01/clothing_sizes_getting_bigger_why_our_sizing_system_makes_no_sense_.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_sizeshttp://sizingsystems.human.cornell.edu/index_flash.html

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