Size of clothing styles based on automatic generation of customized

research

Shang Xiao-mei1, Liqi2, Kong Jun-q1, Yu Wang 3

1 (Collage of Textile and Clothing Engineering of SooChow University, SuZhou 215006)

2 (Jiangsu Licheng Textile Inc, SuZhou 215006)

3 (Shanghai Yin Science & Technology Inc, Shanghai, 201315)

Keywords: Automatic; Mass customization; clothing; intelligentized; demand design

Abstract: In the era of mass production, bulk and individual customizing is the ultimate purpose of

the clothing processing. Now, how to make the customized body dimensions generated

automatically is the foundation of Agile Manufacturing. The allowance of clothes can be provided

according to the style and size of the clothing, and the function of mapping the human dimensions

to measurements is a part of The Clothing CAD system .This paper introduced the detail of design

and implement on the demand of the system which is made up of two parts. The first part of the

system can classify the body dimensions according to diffferent criteria; when the body dimensions

and the clothing style are fixed ,the second part will search in the Expert Knowledge database, and

finally, the most optimalizing allowance of clothes is given. With this system, personalized

customization of garment will come true under the condition of volume-produce; it will not only

improves the efficiency, but also increases the accuracy of the customization.

Introduction

Along with social progress, the apparel industry gradually into the customer era as the core of

the consumers, the pursuit of fashion and personality of the people propose a higher requirements in

terms of the clothing productivity and producing accuracy. Computer-aided design, network

technology and the development of advanced manufacturing technology create the conditions for

customized apparel automation. Mass customization refers to the cost and speed of mass production,

providing the production modes of the customized personalized products and services. The

development of science and technology has changed models in clothing production from a small

manual workshop to mass production. Such change improves the production efficiency and expands

production amount and introduces new problems at the same time. How to solve the customized

personalized issues of the mass clothing production. Meanwhile, due to the changes in consumer

lifestyles, the human data which effect of dress clothing are gradually changing. Thus national

relative authorities and the garment enterprises have carried out a large number of body

measurements, trying to develop a new size standard. By collecting human data in order to process

scientific induction, analysis, processing and discussion and verification, sorting out the appropriate

level of the type and product standards. This is a major scientific and technological achievement of

our national producing clothing technology also marks the clothing standard which gets into the

world advanced class.

To solve this problem, automated customized clothing system came into being. This article is

the development of design requirement and implementation of research for automated customized

system, which includes the design of two subsystems in terms of type classification and

personalized customized clothing systems, the former is according to the selected size standard

Advanced Materials Research Vols. 332-334 (2011) pp 2124-2128Online available since 2011/Sep/02 at www.scientific.net© (2011) Trans Tech Publications, Switzerlanddoi:10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.332-334.2124

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(national standards and enterprise standards, etc.) to process the human body classification; The

latter is an automatic system that given a heavy clothing volume , various type of clothing styles

with heavy volume is supported to expert knowledge base. In mass production mode, using this

intelligent system, it can easily complete the automatic classification for user type and obtain

clothes sizes of various styles, meanwhile can improve the productivity and precision of customized

clothes.

The basic form of customized apparel manufacturing

1.1 manually

(1) Customized methods of manually body measurement.

Designers use a soft ruler tools to measure body for customized customers in order to obtain

the required processing data, and tailored user clothes in according to the data.

Hand-tailored clothes are lack of the following aspects: time-consuming, determine the data by

individual experience, the lack of standardized of quantitative criteria, clothing design and

production is based on tailors’ experience and judgments, accuracy problems, unable processing

volume customized production, requires multiple modifications whether it is aptamer, highly repair

rate.

(2) Volume customized method in according to the standard of series number.

This customized method is to obtain body data measurements by hand and then manually

classified. Develop a series of size standard by depending on the size characteristics. When custom

clothing, first determine the body type that customers belongs to, and then determine the size and

type of clothes which is corresponding to the user body shape. This customized method required

less time for volume statistics, also are beneficial for high-volume clothing production after

statistics. However, there are many problems in according to standard production by series number:

the early manual data collection work is complicated, data from manual records to the statistics

which required second input into the computer but generated errors and long cycle periods. The

discrete style of the standard number of individual body type makes the industrial clothing

production which can not meet the individual needs of the people’s ‘fitting’ demanding.

(3) Individual customized in according to the series of standard styles.

This method is in accordance with the standard series of clothing styles to process customize,

each style of clothing have been involved in many shapes, according to statistics collected by hand

after the data selection, making a different body type to choose the closest model size, and then

slight manually adjust the size. Although this method of tailored clothing can be more accurate, the

efficiency is relatively low and is not benefit for mass production.

1.2 Automatic customized method

(1) Implementation: Data collected from the body to form clothing size, and then making the

size information into the processing information of the manufacturing system, fully implement

customized systems to be automatic and intelligent. In this implementation process, MTM takes

full account of the user’s body feature, style selection, size requirements and other conditions.

Customized clothing, it is a "customer" of the clothing production methods and the core of mass

customization is to minimize the internal diversification of products, increase the external

diversification of products. New development of clothing is based on the analysis of the market

demand, in order to increase the similarity, the components of clothing needs to be standardized.

The individual needs of customers that existed similarity in style, components and specification.

Similarity is the basis for reused, fully bringing into similarity resources, is the key to develop and

design mass production. In the context of mass customization, how to solve the needs of

customization becomes a hot research issue.

Advanced Materials Research Vols. 332-334 2125

(2) The main problems encountered and solutions

A. Information integration problem, how to integrate personal customized of customer requirements

and related data and information links of clothing value chain , enabling rapid response to customer

orders. The solution is the information integrated system which based on network and the

integration technology of enterprise application.

B. Rapid fashion design, how to generate clothing size dimensions in according to customer's body

data. Solution is to create special database of clothing size dimension, realizing the automatic

conversion from a body data to the clothing type.

C. Effective subtotal group by aggregate , how to quickly and effectively to aggregate the subtotal

group on all aspects of the process of the value chain of information and data, easy to mass

production. Solution is to use the regular database; aggregation of all aspects of data classification

will automatically be handled by computer.

2 Required analysis of type classification system and automated design

Solve the problems mentioned above, several tache lines actually required to be an intelligent

artificial solution, to generate an intelligent clothing customized system. The overall process is:

Firstly, categorization of size measurements in accordance with the requirement of standard size,

determination of the position in user’s size and No code type; Secondly, the style choices, and

selection of the corresponding sizes from the previous determined standard size. Finally, the

acquisition of clothing sizes (add loose volume), the entire process shown

To complete the customized clothing, the user types information gained firstly by the automatic

classification system, and then generate the tailoring size system in accordance with the user’s

customized size and obtain size information, to find the best matched of the scaling quantity from

the expert database and gain users’ clothing size. The automatic classification system of clothing

size is serviced for the mass customization and personalized customization, all sizes of human body

shapes can be statistical, which provide an updated support for standard size.

Whether the classification of size or during the classified in terms of number or type of clothing

style dimensions, the critical value problems will be encountered. The so-called critical value refers

to the size of a body part just falls in the middle of the two standard data, how to divide the critical

value becomes a difficult problem. The critical value from different parts of the body size data are

using different methods, during the stage of size classification, the critical value of size mainly

depends on the shape as an reference to determine. Firstly the average value of matched shape of

two individual size which is calculated, then calculated the mean of the average value, finally

judged the size between sharp and the secondary average value, it will belong to the small size class

if it is less than the secondary average value, it will belong to the large size class if it is greater than

or equal to the secondary average value. According to the division of the critical value which

required to consider the wide of shoulder. When the shape falls in the point of critical value of two

sizes, which the shoulder wide required to consider as a reference to determine. Calculated the

average value of two individual matched middle group shoulder wide, then judged the size of

average value between the shoulder wide and the shoulder wide of middle group, it will belong to

the small size class if it is less than the average value of the shoulder wide of middle group. It will

belong to the large size class if it is greater than or equal to the average value of the shoulder side of

middle group.

The determination processing of size type and code shown in Figure 1:

3 Analysis and implementation of automatic gaining system in clothing sizes

2126 Advanced Textile Materials

The conversion from body date to the clothing type is the key technology to realize scale and

rapid production in clothing. During the clothing production and customized process, the net

clothing size is obtained with net size plus with a certain amount of loose value. The loose value of

different body part is different. During the process in automatic size classification, setting will be

made to the loose value after the standard size and clothing type have choice. So the corresponding

parts of human body net size plus the loose value are equal to the size of all body parts. Thus,

during the process of automatic type conversion, intelligent inference usually involves the following

three main processes : . .

(1) style options: shirts, tops, trousers or skirts and so on.

(2) Setting of loose value: loose value is based on a given clothing pattern, scale the size in

according to the main body data of customers to the initial fitting of customers’ body

Usually each size and type is corresponding to one loose value table, shown in Table 1.

Body Height, Bust Circumference READ Difference of Bust&Waist,

Personal ID

Bust Circuference

Shoulder Wide

N N

Figure 1 Automatic Process of Belonging Size

Body Size

Database

Body Measured Data

Comparison of

Height and Size

Standards

Size

Specirfication

Database

Comparison of Size

Standards in Bust

Circumferences (Waist)

Critical

Points

in Size

Critical

Points

in Type

Comparison of

Bust Circuference

Comparison of

Shoulder Wide

Comparison of Size

Standards in Bust

Circumferences (Waist) Confirmed Size

Confirmed Type Confirmed Body

Eg, 170/88A Export

For inquiries

E.g 0623001-170/88A

Select Style

Statistics

Average Value of

Size

Average Value of

Shoulder Wide

Standard of

System

Size Standards Type Standards

YY

Advanced Materials Research Vols. 332-334 2127

Table 1 Loose Table of Clohting Size

Full Clothing

Size Parts Size of Net Body

Loose Value

in Clothing

Collar Size Circumference of

Bottom Neck a1

Bust

Circumference Bust Circumference a2

…… …… ……

(3) personalized customization: according to the special size and requirements of customers,

process changes in some parts to make real ‘fit’ and ‘personalized’ in clothing.

As Figure 1 shows, the process of gaining clothing size is that, firstly reading the size value

and body code of customers, then read the standard style size which users desire to use, this

standard determines the small or big size of loose value in clothing size, then the net body size will

be read, the corresponding styles of clothing sizes will be obtained in according to the loose value

table of net size. For users of mass customization, it already finished in gaining the clothing size,

but for customers of personalized customization, the difference of clothing size and pattern size that

needed to be calculated. This difference is vital for the personalized customization which related to

the accuracy and fitting of clothing. Thus, this system established an expert size database; the data

of clothing expert size database was obtained by tailoring and experienced masters. Meanwhile, it

can process analyzing in cluster in according to the data of the expert database system, the

continued expansion of data size also revised a good performance in loose value of variety of

clothes styles, circulated in promotion and development.

In according to deal with the critical value in clothing size, generally taken the methods of odd

entered but not for even entered. For size date of body parts, due to the gap of size difference was

very small, and the value displayed a continuous distribution, the five-points rule as per reference of

mathematics, the rule of odd entered but not for even entered, shoulder wide and the critical point of

collar can be determined by the characters of parity in the unit value. It will belong to the large class

if it is an odd number of the critical point value; it will belong to the small class if it is an even

number of the critical point value.

Conclusion

This article is an design requirement and researching implementation of the development in

automated customized systems, this system includes a type classification and personalized

customization in clothing which are two subsystems, the former is according to the selected

standard size (national standards and enterprise standards, etc.) to process the human body

classification; The latter is an automatic system that given a heavy clothing volume , various type of

clothing styles with heavy volume is supported to expert knowledge database. In mass production

mode to use this automated system which can be effectively realized personalized customization in

clothing, not only improving the work effectively and the accuracy of customized clothing, but also

has a high reference value in automated customized in clothing projects.

2128 Advanced Textile Materials

Advanced Textile Materials 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.332-334 Size of Clothing Styles Based on Automatic Generation of Customized Research 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.332-334.2124