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Published on Sew4Home(http://www.sew4home.com)
Home > Father's Day with Fabric.com: Digital Tablet/Device Sleeve
Father's Day with Fabric.com: Digital Tablet/Device
Sleeve
Editor: Liz Johnson
Monday, 13 May 2013 1:00
You've decided to give Dear ol' Dad something handmade from the heart this year for Father's Day. But finding great gift ideas
for guys can be tough, starting wi th the search for perfect fabric, which can be challenging in a world that seems populated
solely by pretty posies and polka dots. Luckily for us, our Father's Day series this week is sponsored by Fabric.com; we had an
amazing inventory from which to choose. The right fabric makes all the difference in how a project turns out; it can even spin
something that might have originally been designed with a feminine appeal into a completely different, more masculine look.
What's Dad's favorite color, hobby, or sports team? The fabric choices are wide and varied, so you can search for and find theperfect combination of colors and textures. This week we have five Father's Day projects to choose from, starting with a little
something for Techie Dad: a sleek device carrier to hold an iPad and cell phone or file folders and homework to correct for
Teacher Dad. The finished look is ultra-professional, as if you just grabbed it off the shelf at Eddie Bauer, but thanks to S4H's
great step-by-step directions, you can make i t yourself in perfect Dad fabrics, like the great olive twil l we chose paired wi th a
fantastic patterned cotton for the lining.
Our thanks to Fabric.com for sponsoring this week of Father's Day gift inspiration. Their selection gives you endless
combinations. A great way to see how your selections look together is to use the Fabric.com Design Wall function. It's easy to
add and delete swatches. You will see an "Add To Design Wall" button accompanying each product description. The first time
you click on it, you create your Design Wall; additional items are then added from there.
We recommend medium to heavy-weight fabrics to insure the finished sleeve has the stability and durability Dad needs for
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active, on-the-go use. The case finishes (when closed) at approximately 12" side x 9" high x 1" deep.
Sewing Tools You Need
Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP
Walking foot (the MC8900 QCP has the built-in AcuFeed Flex system, which we used - and love. If you do not have a
built-in feeding system, we recommend a Walking foot or similar for working with the tricky and/or thick layers.)
Fabric and Other Supplies
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yard of 54"+ wide medium to heavy weight cotton fabric for the case exterior; we used 58" wide medium weight Eco
Twill in Olive Drab (item #ET-191) from Fabric.com
yard of 44-45" wide standard weight cotton fabric for the the bag and the pocket; we used 44" wide Aubrey in
Checkered Olive by Whimsies & Wishes for Studio E Fabrics (item #0279505) from Fabric.com
NOTE: The amount shown above allows you to create the matching bias binding. We feel the matching binding is the
most professional finish for the flap, however, you could also use packaged " double-fold bias tape if you can find a
close color match.
yard of 45" heavyweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon's 809 Dcor Bond firm fusible yard of " webbing for the handle; we used black
1 yard of 1" wide webbing to back the accent ribbon; we used black
1 yard of 1" decorative accent ribbon; our "camouflage-style" ribbon was purchased locally
ONE 1" wide side release buckle; we used black
All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
See-through ruler
Straight pins
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
" wide bias tape maker (optional but quite helpful)
Iron and ironing board
Getting Started
1. Download and print TWO copies of the Laptop Sleeve Flap pattern.
IMPORTANT: This pattern download consists of ONE 8" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO
NOT SCALE to fit the page.
2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. Flip over one and butt together (do not overlap) the two pieces along the
center line (following the arrows). This creates your full flap pattern.
3. From the fabric for the exterior (Eco Twill in Olive Drab in our sample), cut the following:
Using the flap pattern, cut ONE piece
TWO 11" high x 14" wide rectangles
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ONE 6" x 6" square for the pleated pocket
4. From the fabric for the lining (Aubrey in Checkered Olive in our sample) , cut the following:
Using the flap pattern, cut ONE piece
TWO 11" high x 14" wide rectangles
ONE 6" x 6" square for the pleated pocket
ONE 1" x 24" bias strip (can be cut and sewn from shorter strips)
5. From the heavy-weight interfacing cut the following:
Using the flap pattern, cut ONE piece
TWO 11" high x 14" wide rectangles
6. From the " webbing, cut ONE 10" length.
7. From the 1" webbing, cut ONE 25" length.8. From the 1" accent ribbon, cut ONE 25" length.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Fusing
1. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each exterior case piece (the two
rectangles and the flap).
Bias binding
1. Find the 1"x 24" bias strip.
2. We used a bias tape maker to create the narrow folds needed (helps you keep from burning your fingers). You can also
fold the strip in half and press to set a crease, unfold, then press in each raw edge ", and press again.
NOTE: For this short length, the standard bias tape maker a great solution. If you have much longer lengths, you may
want to investigate the awesome Simplicity Automatic Bias Tape Maker .
Create and bind the flap
NOTE: As mentioned above, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex system on our Janome MC8900 QCP with the optional
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narrow foot VD throughout the entire project. If you don't have a buil t-in feeding system, attach a Walking foot or similar. It
helps keep all the layers involved in this project feeding more smoothly.
1. Place the interfaced flap exterior and the flap lining WRONG sides together, matching the raw edges all around. Pin in
place.
2. Working on the exterior side of the flat, open out one folded side of the bias tape and align the raw edge of the binding to
the raw edge of the fabric. Pin in place.
3. Stitch the binding in place, following along in the crease line.
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4. Fold the the bias tape over the raw edge to the lining side of the flap. The folded edge should cover your first line of
stitching. Pin in place.
5. Flip the flap back over so the exterior is facing up. Edgestitch the binding in place through all the layers.
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6. Keep your stitching as close to the original seam as you possibly can to insure you catch both the front and back in your
seam.
NOTE: If you are new to working with bias binding, check out our tutorial: Bias Binding: Figuring Yardage, Cutting,Making, Attaching. In addition, if you are worried about keeping your stitch line straight with this narrow binding, you can
use a zig zag stitch. A zig zag is more 'forgiving' than a straight stitch; in other words, your seam line can wobble a l ittle
without it being noticeable on the finished piece.
7. Find one of the 11" x 14" exterior panels. Center the flap along the top of the panel, right sides together and with raw
edges aligned. Pin in place.
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8. Using a " seam allowance, stitch across the flap through all the layers. In other words, your seam should start and stop
at the outside bound edges of the flap.
9. Flip up the flap; this wil l cause the " seam allowance to fold to the inside.10. On the right side, measure and mark along the flap seam for the handle placement. The pins should be 7" apart, centered
on the flap seam.
11. Using a seam ripper, open the seam 1", starting at each pin point and working toward the center. This wi ll allow for the
insertion of the handle in a latter step.
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12. Set aside.
Create and place pocket
1. Find the two 6" x 6" pocket squares: one exterior and one lining.
2. Place the squares right sides together. Pin in place, leaving a 2" opening along the lower edge for turning.
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3. Using a " seam allowance stitch the pocket seams, remembering to pivot at all the corners and to lock your seam at
either side of the 2" opening left for turning. Clip the corners.
4. Turn the pocket right side out through the opening and press well, pressing in the seam allowance at the opening so it is
flush with the sewn seam.
5. Create a 1" box pleat at the center of the pocket. Pin in place. The pocket should now measure approximately 3" wide.
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6. Edgestitch across the top to secure.
7. Find the 11" x 14" exterior panel without the flap.
8. Position the pocket on the right side of the panel. It should sit the lower left corner, 1" up from the bottom raw edge and
1" in from the left raw edge
9. Edgestitch the pocket in place along the both sides and across the bottom, leaving the top open. Remember to pivot at
the corners. This stitching also closes the opening left for turning. We used olive green thread for our edgestitching.
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Assemble the exterior and attach the strap and handle
1. Place the two exterior case pieces right sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin in place along the bottom edge only.
2. Using a " seam allowance, stitch the bottom edge. Press the seam open.
3. Find the 25" lengths of 1" decorative ribbon and 1" webbing.
4. Place the ribbon over the webbing. Pin the two layers to keep them from shifting.
5. Find the side release buckle. Pull it apart.
6. Insert one end of the ribbon/webbing into each half of the buckle. Adjust the length to measure 20" when the buckle is
closed. Pin in place. There should be 3" - 4" of extra length at the male end and 1" of extra length at the female end.
Trim down if necessary.
7. Fold back the extra length on each end to the back of the webbing. Add a few extra pins to hold these "fold-backs" in
place.
8. Lay the case exterior right side up and flat on your work surface. Find the exact center through both panels and the flap.
9. Place the strap along this center line. Position the female end of the buckle so it just clears the edge of the flap. If you
measured correctly above, you should have 20" from the end of the female end of the buckle to where the ribbon/webbing
folds back through the male end of the buckle. Pin in place.
NOTE: In the photo below, we left our ribbon/webbing tales long so you could get a better idea of the layering. As
mentioned above at the female end, fold back and under about 1". At the mail end, fold back and under about 3" -
4" - trim any excess.
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10. At the male end, measure 3" up from where the ribbon/webbing folds back through the buckle. Draw a horizontal line or
place a pin across the ribbon/webbing at this point; it is where you will stopsewing and turn to go across and back down
the opposite side.
11. Edgestitch the ribbon/webbing in place. We lengthened our stitch and use a black thread.
12. Start at the flap end, getting as close to the buckle as possible. We were able to get within about " of the female end of
the buckle. Stitch up one side, stop at the 3" mark from the male end, pivot, stitch across, pivot, and stitch down the
opposite edge to complete.
13. Pull the 3" free end away from the fabric so you can create a final "box" of edgestitching to keep these layers together.
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The bottom of our box starts and stops at the horizontal line of the previous edgestitching. The sides of the box are
perfectly in line with the previous edgestitching, and the top of the box should be as close as you can get it to the buckle.
We were able to get within about 1". We switched to an ol ive green thread for this final box.
14. Find the 10" length of " webbing.
15. Insert one end into each of the small openings in the flap seam you made earlier. Pin in place, making sure the webbing
forms a nice handle and does not twist on itself.
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16. Flip over to the wrong side and re-stitch the flap seam to secure the handle ends in place.
Final exterior assembly with box corners
1. Fold the front and back exterior panels right sides together. The bottom seam should be at the exact bottom and the raw
sides should align.
2. Using a " seam allowance, stitch both sides.
3. Our bag is designed to have 1" sides and base. To create this width, we figured our corners at ".4. Measure and mark each corner.
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5. Flatten and double stitch the corners.
6. If you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.
Lining assembly with box corners
1. Find the two 11" x 14" lining panels.
2. Place the panels right sides together. Pin in place. Using a " seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the
bottom, remembering to pivot at the corners.3. Box the bottom corners, using the same method as above.
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4. Again, if you are new to boxed corners, check out our tutorial for step-by-step instructions.
5. Fold down the top raw edge of the lining " and press in place.
Final assembly
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1. Find the bag exterior. It should be right side out. Push out the box corners so they are nice and square. Fold down the top
raw edge " to match the lining and press in place.
2. Find the lining. It should be wrong side out and its box corners should also be nice and square.
3. Slip the lining inside the exterior so the two pieces are now wrong sides together.
4. Align the side seams and the bottom box corners. At the back, the lining should just cover the flap seam. Elsewhere, the
two folded edges should be flush. If they aren't, re-fold one or both as necessary so they are flush. Pin in place al l
around.
5. Working on the right side, edgestitch around the entire top opening through all the layers. You are catching the lining as
you sew and will be sewing across the decorative ribbon and handle. If you have a free arm machine, this makes sewingthe edges together much easier! We used the same olive green thread we used on the pocket edgestitching for this final
seam. Again as mentioned above, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex system on our Janome MC8900 QCP with the
optional narrow foot VD. If you don't have a built-in feeding system, attach a Walking foot or similar.
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6. We added our SewHome label to the top inside edge.
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Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler
Tags:
Father's Day with Fabric.com
Section:
Storage Solutions
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Comments (13)
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