The Spirit of Alpinism

www.alpineinstitute.com

info@alpineinstitute.com

Equipment Shop: 360­671­1570

Administrative Office: 360­671­1505

SIERRA WINTER MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST It is essential that you do a careful job in selecting and preparing your equipment for this course. The weather in the mountains is a major objective hazard, even in the summer, and in the winter it can present extreme challenges to survival. Temperatures are typically in the teens but can easily drop to ­10 to ­20F and be accompanied by high winds and blowing snow. We will not head into the mountains until everyone has appropriate equipment. Showing up unprepared can result in a delayed start to the trip or an altered itinerary. For your own comfort and safety, please take this list seriously and come in good physical condition. If you have any questions about choosing your gear please call our Equipment Shop Specialist or our Sierra Program Coordinator and ask for advice. The equipment you bring must function well in a wide variety of conditions. Your clothing should be warm, lightweight, dry quickly, and allow good freedom of movement. The layering principle, based on several thin layers of insulation (rather than one thick one) meets these needs well. An Intro to the Layering System Glove System for Alpine Climbing As a general rule you should not bring more clothing than you can wear at one time. With the exception of socks and hand wear, avoid duplicating layers. Backcountry skiing and winter climbing is always a challenge. Travel light to make your experience more enjoyable. Course participants often pair up before the course or at the rendezvous to discuss sharing the use of tents and stoves to save weight. Please take the time to prepare your equipment carefully and become familiar with it by using it in the field prior to your program. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to email or call the your Program Coordinator at our office (360)­671­1505 or our Equipment Shop (360)671­1507.

RENTALS: Equipment items that are available for rentals through our AAI Sierra Equipment cache are designated with an “ Rent” check box. You may request these items on your Sierra Rental Form . Your guide will bring these to your Rendezvous on Day 1 of your course. If you need rentals prior to the first day of your course, please contact Mammoth Mountaineering Supply for these items.

©American Alpine Institute 2017

Examples, indicated with a , have been provided to serve as quick reference. Underlined items link to examples available in our Equipment Shop. Don’t forget AAI climber receive 15% off full price items purchased through our gear shop! GEAR PREPARATION: Take the time to properly label and identify all items of personal gear. Many items that climbers bring are almost identical. Your name on a garment tag or a piece of colored electrical tape on carabiners and miscellaneous items is an easy way to label your gear; fingernail polish on hard goods is excellent. If using tape or colored markers, make sure your labeling method is durable and water resistant. When preparing your equipment for travel to California, please remember that lighters and stove fuel are not allowed on aircraft. Stoves that have been thoroughly cleaned can be put in your checked baggage. Cover and tape sharp points, so they do not puncture other items in your luggage.

ASSISTANCE: Our Equipment Shop Staff is available for gear advice or assisting with purchases. (see Equipment Shop details at bottom of page for further details.)

Clothing and Footwear Packing Checklist

COLD WEATHER MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS Due to snow levels and frequent freezing temperatures, insulated mountaineering boots are mandatory. Double boots (with an outer shell and removable liner) are the standard for winter conditions and frostbite prevention. Hiking boots and “snow boots” will not work for this course. Boots without removable liners should only be considered if you don’t get cold feet and your climb is after January. * Plastic mountaineering boots are available for rent locally through Wilson’s Eastside Sports in Bishop . NOTE: There are many makes and model out there and not all are created equal. Please consult with our Equipment Shop if you are uncertain

about the acceptability of your chosen model.

La Sportiva Spantik, Batura, or Nepal. Scarpa Phantom Guide or Phantom 6000

Own Buy Rent*

GAITERS Knee height. Check the fit of the gaiter to your boot in advance to make sure the coverage is adequate. Not required for those with integrated boots. Materials: Schoeller, nylon, cordura

OR Crocodile

Own Buy

SOCKS Bring two or three complete changes. Adjust your sock system ahead of time to perfect your boot fit. No cotton. Materials: wool or synthetic are ideal

Own Buy

UNDERGARMENTS Underwear to wear under your base layer. 2+ pairs depending on personal preference for changing. Materials: wool or synthetic are ideal

Own Buy

BASE LAYER TOP Bring one. This will be your base layer and should be “midweight” synthetic or wool. No cotton.

Own Buy

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Weight: 5 ­ 8oz / 140 ­ 225 grams Materials: Synthetic, wool AAI’s synthetic t­shirt, Outdoor Research Essence Zip Top, Patagonia Lightweight Capilene

BASE LAYER BOTTOM One pair is sufficient. Look for the same features of your Base Layer Top. They should fit comfortably under your climbing pants. It should be at least midweight. Weight: 5 ­ 8oz / 140 ­ 225 grams Materials: Synthetic, wool Patagonia Capilene, Mammut Go Dry, Rab PowerStretch Fleece

Own Buy

2nd LAYER TOP A lightweight fleece or wind shirt. A chest pocket is a helpful feature. Weight: 13 ­ 16oz / 368 ­ 454 grams Materials: Nylon, micro weave fabrics, fleece, wind stopper Patagonia Houdini, OR Marvel, Rab PowerStretch Fleece, Patagonia R1

Own Buy

LIGHT INSULATING LAYER TOP The goal for this piece is to add warmth to your internal layering system. This layer fits this underneath your shell gear (e.g. fleece sweaters) or over your shell gear (lightweight insulated jackets.) The weight and design of this piece will vary based on the other layers you are bringing. Weight: 10 ­ 14oz / 280­ 400 grams Materials: Primaloft, down Patagonia Nano Puff or Nano Air Hoody, Rab microlight Alpine, Arc'Teryx Atom LT Hoody, OR Cathode Hoody

Own Buy

SOFT SHELL JACKET A thin, light, stretchy, breathable but wind and snow­resistant layer that is comfortable to wear is ideal. This will be your “action” layer and the outer layer you will spend most of your time in. Hoods are highly recommended. Size your jacket to be trim fitting, but large enough to fit over your base and second layers. Light to moderate insulation/thickness is recommended. This layer will go over your base and insulation layers, but under your shell and parka. Rab Cirrus Wind Top, Rab Vapor Rise Lite­Alpine, Mountain Equipment Squall

Own Buy

SOFT SHELL PANT Look for the same features ads your soft shell jacket. This will be your outermost layer most of the time for your legs. A thigh pocket is a useful feature for storing small items. Your base layers need to fit under these pants comfortably. Weight: 8 ­ 20oz / 227 ­ 566 grams Materials: eVent, Gore­tex, h2No, or similar Patagonia Guide, Black Diamond Alpine, Arc’Teryx Gamma, Mountain Equipment Comici

Own Buy

WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE SHELL JACKET This layer needs to be made of waterproof/breathable construction and ultralight. Your shell should be sized to comfortably fit over your other base and mid­layers (minus your parka) . Avoid extra pockets (one or two chest pockets is all you need,) 3 ­ layer Gore­Tex and hanging linings. Your hood should fit over your climbing helmet. Weight: 8 ­ 20oz / 227 ­ 566 grams Outdoor Research Reflexa, Outdoor Research Helium, Rab Atmos, Marmot Precip

Own Buy

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WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE SHELL PANT Made of waterproof/breathable material, your lightweight shell bottoms must have full or hip­length side zips. This garment should be extremely lightweight and packable. A zipper fly is a nice optional luxury. Should be sized to fit over your base layers and softshell pants. Weight: 8 ­ 20oz / 227 ­ 566 grams Materials: eVent, Gore­tex, h2No, or similar Mountain Equipment Narwhal or Odyssey, Patagonia Torrentshell

Own Buy

DOWN PARKA Expedition weight with hood. Baffled construction, includes hood, pockets, and offers sufficient coverage over your waist. Must fit over all of your other layers. Weight: 35 ­ 55oz / 922 ­ 2560 grams Fill Materials: Primaloft, down Shell Material: nylon epic, eVent Feathered Friends Frontpoint Volant or Helios, Rab Neutrino, Patagonia Down parka, MH Sub Zero

Own Buy

GLOVES LINERS You wear these for much of your time on the mountain. They need to be dexterous and comfortable, but not necessarily very insulating. Bring one pair. Materials: Fleece, Powerstretch, or similar Mid­weight Fleece/Schoeller OR PL 100 or Base, Arc'teryx Phase Glove

Own Buy

MIDWEIGHT/SOFTSHELL/GLOVES The most desirable glove is one that is comfortable and dexterous, so that it can be worn all day. It should be durable enough (leather/synthetic palms) to handle ropes, ice axes, jumars. These come in different weights, so choose the thickness that works with your glove system. Bring one pair. Choose a mid­weight model. Weight: 4 ­ 8oz / 110 ­ 200 grams Materials: softshell, windstopper fleece, leather or similar OR Gripper or Extravert; Black Diamond Scree or Impulse; Petzl Cordex Plus Gloves ; Mountain Equipment Super Alpine Glove

Own Buy

EXPEDITION GLOVES Composed of heavy­duty waterproof shells with extremely warm liners, these modulars gloves MUST have removable liners as well as be dexterous enough to handle ropes, carabiners, and jumars. Gauntlets should extend to mid­forearm. No mittens. Weight: 9 ­ 14oz / 225 ­ 400 grams Materials: Gore­tex or similar Black Diamond Guide Glove; OR High Camp, Alti or Arete; Marmot Ultimate Ski Gloves

Own Buy

BEANIE HAT/TOQUE A warm hat that will fit under your climbing helmet. No Tassels. Windstopper fabric makes hearing difficult. Weight: 6 ­ 10oz / 56 ­ 112 grams Materials: fleece, wool, or simila r

Own Buy

BUFF/BALACLAVA Think to medium weight. When combined with your hat and goggles this should completely cover your head and face. Materials: powerstrech, fleece, wool, or simila r

Own Buy

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SUN HAT A baseball cap or visor serves well.

Own Buy

Required Climbing Equipment Packing Checklist

CLIMBING HARNESS For alpine climbing, adjustable leg loops and belay loop. Make sure it fits your body when wearing adjustable leg loops and must have a belay loop. Make sure it fits your body when wearing bulky clothing. Gear loops are desirable features. Weight: 6 ­ 16oz / 170 ­ 453 grams Black Diamond Blizzard or Couloir; Arc'Teryx A300a

Own Buy Rent

CLIMBING HELMET Lightweight, well ventilated, and comfortable. Must be UIAA approved for climbing. Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios`

Own Buy Rent

CARABINERS Bring two large, pear shaped (or Münter) locking carabiners. Label/tape them well if you want your exact biners back at the end of the trip. Petzl Screwlock Attache; Black Diamond

Own Buy

SEWN RUNNER/SLING We require you to bring one sewn nylon sling. It should be 120cm (48in) in length. Thinner spectra/dyneema slings are not recommended.

Own Buy

ICE AXE We recommend using an ice axe that is about 48­50cm. For many courses and ascents there will be days when the axe will be used only briefly and spend most of the day strapped to the pack while you are climbing rock. Weight; 13 ­ 20oz/ 370 ­ 560 grams Grivel Airtech Evo; Camp USA Neve; Petzl Irvis or Glacier; Black Diamond Raven Pro Steel

Own Buy Rent

CRAMPONS Flexible or semi­flexible. New­matic crampons are the easiest to put on with cold fingers. Only modern strap­on, step­in, or “new­matic” crampons are acceptable. Older Scottish style strap­on crampons are not adequate. Petzl Irvis, Black Diamond Contact Strap, Grivel G12 or G10 NOTE: Check with your Program Coordinator to ensure that you need an ice axe and crampons. Late Season (August ­ September) programs may not require these items.

Own Buy Rent

AVALANCHE EQUIPMENT If you have your own avalanche kit please call the AAI Equipment Shop to confirm they will be appropriate for this course. If you do not own these items they can be rented from AAI. Your kit should include:

Transceiver Probe Shovel

Own Buy Rent

©American Alpine Institute 2017

SNOWSHOES The should be equipped with an integral crampon and/or aggressive traction on the bottom of the snowshoes. Large profile basic model made by Tubbs, Atlas and Sherpa do not work well and are not recommended. Models by MSR are proven and quite durable. MSR Denali, Denali Ascent, and Denali Evo We recommend 22 inch for everybody

Own Buy Rent

TREKKING POLES Two are required. Even if you don’t normally use trekking poles, on this expedition in particular, they are invaluable in helping with balance while carrying heavy pack on mountainous terrain and crossing streams ­ especially while on snowshoes. Snow baskets will help from punching through the snow.

Own Buy Rent

Camping Equipment Packing Checklist

INTERNAL FRAME CLIMBING PACK Choose the pack that fits your body best. An external frame is not adequate or functional. Avoid bells and whistles like large full length zippers, separate sleeping bag compartments, etc. Removable hip belts, suspension parts and lid are nice options. It is very important that your pack be in good working order and not prone to failures of andy sort. Our packs are hugely important item and a climber may not be able to continue to to a pack failure. Size Range: 60 ­ 80 liters / cu in.

Weight: 4 ­ 6.5lbs/ 1.81 ­ 2.9kg

Black Diamond Mission 75L; Cilogear WorkSack 60L; Arc’Teryx Alpha FL 45; Cold Cold World

Valdez; Mountain Hardwear South Col 70L; Wild Things Andinista

Own Buy Rent

TENT /SNOW STAKES A lightweight 4­season two­person tent is recommended. It should be able to withstand 40mph winds and continuous, multi­day rain. Generally your shelter should weigh no more than 4 lbs per person. We normally pair up in tents, so if you don’t have one, you may be able to share. Snow stakes for at least half of your guy out points is a good idea. Also, make sure that any of the extra guy­line that are typically included with 4 season tents are attached to the tent. Guy­out points about half­way up the tent on the corners are the most important. Hilleberg Nallo; Mountain Hardwear Trango; Black Diamond Firstlight

Own Buy Rent

SLEEPING BAG Down is the sleeping bag of choice rated to ­10F (­23C) to 0F (18C). If you know you sleep cold take this into consideration when purchasing/selecting your bag. To help keep your sleeping bag dry, bring an extra large garbage bag with which you can line your sleeping bag stuff sack and use for storage in the tent. * Sleeping bags are available for rent locally through Mammoth Mountain Gear in Mammoth Lakes Weight: 40 ­ 50oz / 1.1 ­ 1.4 grams

Materials: Dryloft, eVent, Epic nylon fill materials Marmot Lithium Membrain; Feather Friends Snowbunting; Western Mountaineering Antelope;

Mountain Hardwear Phantom

Own Buy Rent*

COMPRESSION STUFF SACK Used to shrink you sleeping bag into the smallest size possible. Weight: 2 ­ 4oz / 56 ­ 110 grams

Own Buy

SLEEPING PAD Own

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Tow are recommended. One should be a half­length inflatable pad. The second pad should be a full­length closed cell foam pad. Your inflatable pad should be a modern, lightweight, and packable version with R­Value of at least 4. Newer pads are less bulky and take up only a tiny portion of your packs’ volume. Please bring a patch kit for inflatable pads. Weight: 8 ­ 20oz / 225 ­565grams

Thermarest Air Neo, Exped Down Mat, Sea to Summit Comfort Lite

Buy

Cooking Equipment Packing

Checklist

STOVE Liquid fuel or canister stoves are acceptable. We may pair up on stoves at the rendezvous to save weight. Canisters stove are our guide’s preferred choice and have proven to work on Whitney in winter conditions. MSR Whisperlite, MSR Reactor or Windburner, Jetboil

Own Buy Rent

FUEL White gas or gas canister, 22oz of white gas or two 8oz canisters per person are usually sufficient. Fuel is available for purchase through AAI at the Rendezvous for your course. FUEL BOTTLE For use with liquid fuel stoves. Leak­proof bottles designed for your specific stove such as Sigg or MSR are best.

Own Buy

POTS One 1½ ­ 2 quart pot is enough for one person. Should be lightweight and fairly compact and compatible with your stove. Two people sharing a stove might want to bring two pots if their meals are significantly different. Pot can double as your bowl if you like. Material: Titanium, aluminum

Own Buy Rent

LIGHTER Bring two. Lighters are no longer acceptable in checked baggage when flying.

Own Buy

EATING UTENSILS Spoon: Bigger is better. Lexan is lighter, but metal spoons are more durable. Telescoping

or longer handles are great for deep bowl or pots. Thermal mug: 16 ­ 20oz with lid. Optional: You may be able to use a nalgene bottle for

this. GSI Fairshare Mug (also works well for a bowl), Hydro Flask, Klean Kanteen, MSR Bowl: A lightweight Tupperware­type bowl is recommended. Avoid metal bowls, they

conduct heat more rapidly and lead to colder food and drinks faster than other material. Fozzils, GSI Ultralight nesting bowls, GSI Fairshare Mug, MSR Mess Kit

Own Buy

Food and Hydration Packing

Checklist

FOOD You are responsible for planning your meals for the duration of this program. Select meals that relatively easy to prepare but also appetizing. For the days bring plenty of quick, high­energy lunch foods. We have included a backcountry meal planning guideline in your program packet. Please call our Equipment Shop for additional guidance if needed.

Own Buy

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HYDRATION 2.5 ­ 3 liters of water is the minimum. Two or three water bottles. Usually one­liter wide mouth Nalgene type are required. Narrow mouth bottles are not functional and should not be used. Other similar plastic bottles (e.g. Gatorade) can also works. Hydration bladders are not recommended, once they freeze they stay frozen for the duration of the trips. Water Bottle Parkas: These are insulating jackets for your water bottles, one for each bottle. Must cover the entire bottle, including the lid. Nalgene plastic bottles, Forty Below Bottle Boot

Own Buy

WATER PURIFICATION Bring tablets or liquid purification. Filters are overly heavy and should not be used. Aqua Mira, Portable Aqua, Aquatabs

Own Buy

Other Essentials Packing Checklist

GLACIER GLASSES / SUNGLASSES Choose a model with 100% UVA/UVB protection. Keeper strings like “Croakies” are useful to prevent dropping your glasses while climbing. Note: Those using contact lenses should bring a pair of prescription glasses in the event that your contacts or solutions are lost or damaged by freezing.

Own Buy

SKI GOGGLES For use in high winds and heavy snow. They should be lightly tinted but not so dark that it will reduce visibility in low light conditions. They should block 100% of UV light. If you wear prescription glasses, these must fit comfortably over your glasses.

Own Buy

PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT Duct tape, moleskin, band aids, blister care supplies. Plan to bring and adequate supply of any prescription medications, epi­pen, inhaler, or any necessary OTC medications you may need while on your course. Your guide will be carrying a large first aid kit for the group. Please inform your guide if you carry an Epipen or have any similar severe allergies or medical conditions .

Own Buy

PERSONAL TOILETRIES Bring a toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, personal supply of TP, etc

Own Buy

SUNSCREEN/LIP PROTECTION Bring 1 container/applicator with the highest SPF available. Sunscreen: With a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of no less than 30. For the fair skin, the higher the SPF the better. Stick applicators allow you to apply without exposing fingers. Dermatone produces and effective 1”diameter stick as well as translucent zinc oxide lotion. A 1oz tube is adequate. Sunscreen is prone to freezing in the cold and smaller containers fit well in pockets for warming.

Own Buy

HEADLAMP High output LED models are preferred over older halogen models. Flashlights are not acceptable.

Own Buy

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Petzl Tikka series, Black Diamond Spot

WRISTWATCH A model with an alarm that will wake you up is preferable. It doesn’t need to be fancy.

Own Buy

GARBAGE BAGS Bring one or two large ones. They serve a variety of uses. Trash compactor bags, if available, are more durable

Own Buy

MULTITOOL Any multi tool similar to a Leatherman is great. One should be shared amongst tent­mates. Smaller is better than overly complex.

Own Buy

REPAIR KIT Include a Therm­a­rest Pad repair kit, crampon wrench and extra screws (if yours need it), small sewing kit, duct tape (can be wrapped around a water bottle) pack waist buckle. Most of the items in this kit should be shared amongst tent­mates.

Own Buy

PEE BOTTLE 1­quart size minimum. Nalgene 48oz widemouth canteen is a guide favorite. Plastic bottle from the store such as Gatorade also work well. If you choose to bring one of these, use it carefully and make sure the capacity is adequate. Label you pee bottle well. Women must also bring a pee funnel; Freshette and Pee Style make tried and true models.

Own Buy

Optional Essentials The items below are not required, although many are nice “luxury” items that can make your expedition

more enjoyable. Remember that a few ounces here and there add up to extra pounds on your back and

knees during your expedition.

Packing Checklist

ENTERTAINMENT Books, games, cards, for stormy days in the tent. Music players like iPods and MP3 players are popular because the device and media are small and relatively lightweight.

Own Buy

JOURNAL or SMALL NOTEBOOK Some climbers like to keep a journal or log for writing on the trip. Ballpoint pens work well in the cold and at altitude but other ink well type pens do not. “Rite in the Rain” notebooks are more durable and more functional for the mountain environment than regular notebook paper.

Own Buy

EAR PLUGS Defense against snoring and high winds in the area.

Own Buy

HANDI WIPES/WET WIPES The mountain shower. For personal hygiene and general use.

Own Buy

HAND/FOOT WARMERS Recommended for people susceptible to cold hands and toes. These should be small, disposable type products like the ones made by Grabber Mycoal.

Own Buy

FOOT POWDER A very small bottle will allow you to treat your feet daily, keep them dryer, extend the life of your socks, and help you avoid blisters/rashes from chronic wet feet.

Own Buy

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1­2oz / 28 ­ 56 grams Gold Bond, Dr. Scholls

POST­CLIMBING CLOTHING A clean set of clothing is an excellent item to leave in the vehicle to change into upon your return.

Own Buy

Additional Details: The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute provides clothing and equipment for purchase, rental gear, and advice. Shop staff members are great climbers themselves and deeply involved in evaluating and testing gear. They are considered by many outdoor gear manufacturers to be the most expert in the country. They thoroughly understand the needs of climbers who will be rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or exploring the world on international expeditions. Guides Choice International Field Testing The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute also administers AAI’s prestigious Guide’s Choice Award . Equipment and clothing that have been awarded the Guides Choice designation have proven to be the top item in their product category. The awards are made on the basis of excellence in design, performance, and durability demonstrated in rigorous international field tests carried out by the professional guides of the Institute. Call or E-mail the Equipment Shop for Advice or Gear Please feel free to contact us and to let us help you get ready for your climbing trip. Your comfort and safety depend on being well equipped. Whether you get your gear from us or just get advice, we’re here to help you prepare. Call: (360) 671­1570 Email: shop@AlpineInstitute.com Equipment Shop Website: www.Shop.AlpineInstitute.com

Updated 08/28/2017 KE

©American Alpine Institute 2017