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If you are looking for a wide selection
of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery,
you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 135 years, the name
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
expertise in the art of making jewellery
and timepieces. We offer a unique
selection of valuable treasures at 29
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
especially proud because for more than
a century we have been privileged to
contribute to the grand feelings that
our customers express when they
purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our
pieces of jewellery uphold internatio-
nal standards and are born in our own
atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-
a-kind items as well as for our diverse
assortment of classic pieces with
brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-
old friendship links us with the world’s
foremost watch manufactories. You will
fi nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest
We accept all credit cards.
locations in great European metropolises,
New York City and in Beijing. Each shop
also offers service or advice whenever you
require it, so you can be certain that we
will always be available to meet your
individual needs. We cordially invite you
to discover an abundance of interesting
new items and exclusive special models at
one of Europe’s leading jewellers. Please
have a look at our website to find the
complete range of watch brands we carry.
We look forward to your visit!
Paris 16, rue Royale T +33.1.42 60 21 77 [email protected] Hamburg London Paris New York Beijing wempe.com
Emma Cheevers
Editor’s Letter
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@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
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Welcome to Paris
Even if you’ve visited Paris before, you may be surprised to discover
Palais Galliera, the city’s fashion museum – fnd out about its recent
exhibition in our feature on page 42. In this edition, we also reveal the
city’s leading restaurants and discover the history of Cartier’s Panther.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,
and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell
you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top
global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential
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For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier
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With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global
Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Paris has to ofer.
Athens and Thessaloniki
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Contributors
10
globalblue.com
Stephen Doig
Stephen Doig is SHOP’s
features editor. A regular
columnist for the men’s
section of the Telegraph,
he has written for Vogue, GQ
and the Financial Times. His
weaknesses include metallic
Lanvin shoes and red wine.
Frances Wasem
Frances Wasem is assistant
fashion features editor at
Harper’s Bazaar magazine.
For this edition of SHOP she
has researched the leading
stores and designers in Paris
who can provide the perfect
items for a luxury wedding.
Clare Coulson
Journalist Clare Coulson
provides a guide to looking as
chic as the city’s best-dressed
people, in her feature The
Secrets of Parisian Style. Clare
is the former fashion director
of Harper’s Bazaar, for which
she is now contributing editor. ILL
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Pietari Posti
Illustrator Pietari Posti
created the cover for SHOP
Paris Luxury this season.
His elegant and expressive
artwork has previously been
commissioned by Omega,
American Express and the
New York Times, among
others. Pietari’s ability to
take a conceptual brief
and give it a graceful and
dramatic fnish makes him
the perfect illustrator for this
edition. His cover, inspired
by our feature about efortless
Parisian style on page 42,
takes its cue from classic
French fashion.
Read more about our cover
illustrations at globalblue.com/
covers.
Shop Floor
12
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the
information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury
or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Pietari Posti
Contributors
Clare Coulson, Frances Wasem
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
Ximena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editors
Hannah Lewis,
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistant
Gemma Latham
Editorial intern
Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew
Picture editor
Dorcas Brown
Assistant picture editors
Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Picture assistants
Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Picture intern
Rubi Ali
Artworker
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Hibba Sayeed
Online editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online editorial assistant
Katie Ramsingh
Online assistants
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Justine Clifton
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Commercial artworking interns
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Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese assistant editor
Hongying Xu
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Mengjiao Qu,
Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Chinese interns
Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Assistant Russian editor
Kira Savchenko
Russian editorial assistant
Linda Blank
Russian translators
Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
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Kyoko Nishimoto
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
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Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
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Contents
14
Above: Cartier panther brooch, as purchased by Wallis Simpson in 1948
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18 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece from Paris
this season
20 Our Favourites
the men behind the fashion label
courrèges, and perfumer Barnabé Fillion,
reveal their top places and products in Paris
24 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
32 Street Style
our pick of the best dressed during Paris
Fashion Week
N e Ws
34 Shop Window
one store not to be missed in Paris
36 News
seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F e At u r e s
42 Cover Story: The Secrets Of
Parisian Style
Achieve the innately French art of elegance
with this guide by clare coulson
50 In Focus: The Cartier Panther
created 100 years ago, cartier’s panther
motif has adorned some of the most
desirable pieces of jewellery. stephen doig
looks at its history
56 Big-day Dressing
Make the ultimate statement in a wedding
gown designed in the world’s great
romantic city, says Frances Wasem
e x Pe r i e Nce
60 Table Talk
Paris’s gourmet reputation continues to
thrive. Verity Hogan peruses the menus
at some of the city’s best restaurants
64 Stay In Style
sHoP’s guide to the world’s most
exclusive hotels
Gu i de
69 Maps and guides to the top shops and
destinations in Paris, plus sHoP’s unique
view of the city’s sights
p.50
Contents
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Online
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Follow the Global Blue editors
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T R A NSL AT IONS
88 Русский Перевод
92 美文翻译
95 日本語翻訳
SOU V E N I R
98 The essential item to bring home
82 My Neighbourhood
Respected chef Antoine Westermann
takes SHOP on a tour of Paris and the
Montmartre district
E SSE N T I A L S
86 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on
your shopping
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KEEPING IT CHIC
If there is one designer who encapsulates
efortlessly cool Parisian style, it’s Isabel
Marant. Every season, the French designer’s
collections are coveted and adored by fashion’s
most powerful tastemakers, creating waiting
lists across the globe. When Marant produced
a collection for high-street giant H&M last year,
it sold out in less than 24 hours. The label’s
accessories are particularly collectible and we
predict a frenzy over these cosy yet chic ankle
boots. This style is taken from the autumn/
winter 2014 collection, where Marant’s focus
is on warm, comfortable, yet desirable clothes
in a khaki colour palette spruced up by glitzy
metallics, sequin embellishments and luxe
fabrics. On the runway, these boots were paired
with low-slung, slouchy trousers and sharply
tailored jackets or knits, providing another
valuable lesson in Parisian dressing from
the master of easy, of-duty model style. irs
Isabel Marant boots, €850,
Isabel Marant, 1 rue Jacob, 75006 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4326 0412,
isabelmarant.com
* for map go to page 80
ESC ADA .COM
PARIS
2 AVENUE MONTAIGNE +33 1 42898345
PAL AIS DES CONGRES +33 1 40682130
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our Favourites: Frédéric torloting and Jacques Bungert
1. ‘Colette is still important for shopping and fashion’Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, colette.fr
In 1961, Andre Courrèges set up his own label in Paris, which became known for its fresh and irreverent approach to fashion. Eschewing the typical tight and formal dresses of haute couture, the designer created modern pieces, from trousers to miniskirts. Frédéric Torloting and Jacques Bungert took over Courrèges in 2011 and have been busy restoring the brand to its former glory. They found some rare time out to share their top places and products in Paris with Ximena Daneri
2. ‘Eau de Courrèges suits men and women with its citrus and absinthe fragrances’Eau de Courrèges, 50ml, €55,Courrèges, 40 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 1460, courreges.com
3. ‘For speciality French food, we recommend macaroons from Ladurée’Ladurée macaroons, from €17.80, Ladurée, 75 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4075 0875,laduree.com
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5. ‘This little Courrèges dress was originally designed to dress all women around the world and is still a bestseller today’Courrèges 100 dress, €1,400,Courrèges, 40 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 1460,courreges.com
4. ‘Christian Louboutin stands out as today’s most desirable shoemaker for shoes with heels!’Christian Louboutin shoes, €925, Christian Louboutin, 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 5366, christianlouboutin.com
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3. ‘Marni always creates a
particularly modern Italian
elegance with its collections’
Marni, 57 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 5688 0808,
marni.com
2. ‘Chocolates from Fouquet
make the perfect gift. The
dried orange wrapped in
chocolate is so delicious’
Fouquet Boite d’Écorces Enrobées, €100, Fouquet, 36 rue Laftte,
75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4770 8500,
fouquet.fr
My Favourites: Barnabé Fillion
Barnabé Fillion is an independent perfumer living
and working in Paris who has collaborated with
brands such as Paul Smith, Aesop and Opening
Ceremony. He balances innovative methods with a
respect for tradition and nature in his creations, and
likes to travel in order to seek out new ingredients.
Here Barnabé gives Gemma Latham his tips about
the items and attractions to look out for in the city
barnabefllion.com
1. ‘Rue de Charonne is an
area full of life and youth, but
it still looks like Paris did 20
years ago. My favourite food
market, Marché d’Aligre, is
there, as are small craft shops’
Marché d’Aligre, Place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4511 7111,
marchedaligre.free.fr
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4. ‘I take this perfume with
me when I travel. It’s a unique
fragrance with an overdose
of wood and makes me feel at
home wherever I am’
Comme des Garçons x Monocle Scent One: Hinoki, 50ml, €80,
Comme des Garçons Parfums,
23 place du Marché Saint-Honoré,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 1503,
comme-des-garcons.com
5. ‘I couldn’t brush my long
hair without this conditioner’
Aesop Nurturing Conditioner, €20,
Aesop, 256 rue Saint-Honoré,
75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 9614,
aesop.com
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5. Burberry Prorsum cape, €1,050, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com
6. Louis Vuitton bag charm, €295, Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com
3. Anna Rivka Eveil perfume,
60ml, €270, Liquides Bar à Parfums, 9 rue de Normandie, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 6694 7706, annarivka.fr
4. Loriblu boots, €460, Loriblu, 84 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 7343, loriblu.com
1. ST Dupont pen, €230, ST Dupont, 58 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 0839, st-dupont.com
2. Longchamp handbag, €850, Longchamp, 404 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, longchamp.com
SCARLET VISION
Add structure to fowing fabrics with bold colours and sharp accessories
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7. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick, €31, Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4450 6600, chanel.com
8. U by Adolfo Dominguez skirt,
€119, Adolfo Dominguez, 1-3 rue Elzevir, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4458 9610, adolfodominguez.com
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after-dark
dressing
Light up the night in iridescent prints and intriguing textures
4. Marella dress, €225, Marella, 18-20 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5330 7313, marella.com
3. Fauré Le Page bag, €1,550, Fauré Le Page, 21 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 9936, faurelepage.com
1. Guerlain eyeshadow palette, €53, La Maison Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 5257, guerlain.com
2. Christian Louboutin shoes, €445, Christian Louboutin, 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 5366, christianlouboutin.com
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5. Hackett travel bag, €900,
Hackett, 37 boulevard des Capucines,
75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 0375,
hackett.com
3. Fratelli Rossetti shoes, €420,
Fratelli Rossetti, 237 rue Saint-Honoré,
75001 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4265 2660, fratellirossetti.com
4. Acne jumper, €320,
Acne, 3 rue Froissart, 75003 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4996 9691, acnestudios.com
1. Dunhill wallet, €220,
Dunhill, 15 rue de la Paix,
75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 6194,
dunhill.com
2. Breitling Chronomat 44 watch,
€7,530, Breitling,
10 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4261 1884, breitling.com
MAN ABOUT TOWN
Contrast a warm sweater with slick
accessories in leather and steel
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3. Pomellato ring, €17,800,
Pomellato, 66 rue du Faubourg
Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4265 6207,
pomellato.com
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
chronograph, €126,900,
Audemars Piguet,
380 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4020 4545,
audemars-piguet.com
1. Vignes handbag, €5,500,
Vignes, 188 boulevard Saint-Germain,
75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 4790,
vignes-creations.com
2. Marina Rinaldi coat, €2,165,
Marina Rinaldi, 7 avenue Victor Hugo,
75116 Paris, +33 (0)1 4501 7735,
marinarinaldi.com
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TIMELESS
CHIC
Recreate old-school
Parisian luxury
with rose gold and
diamonds for an
elegant and evocative
ensemble that will
always be in style
32 | PRODUCTS
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Street
Style
Follow the examples
of model Caroline
Brasch Nielsen,
fashion director
Anya Ziourova and
other attendees at
Paris Fashion Week
and banish winter
wardrobe woes with
cheerful, uplifting
foral prints and
neon tones
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34 | NEWS
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Shop Window
Paris meets new york at tiffany
Paris is arguably the most romantic city in the world and tifany’s outstanding jewellery is a perfect match. the company’s newly opened fagship store on avenue des Champs-Élysées showcases tifany’s fne jewellery and accessories, as well as its range of bridal items. a number of private viewing rooms is
provided, where customers can browse pieces at their leisure. Combining tifany’s new york art deco aesthetic with Parisian elegance, the centrepiece of the store is a stunning chandelier of cascading lights, which adds further sparkle to this already dazzling store. irsTifany & Co,62 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8482 0200,tifany.com
* for map go to page 74
36 | NEWS
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PERFECT SCENTS
Le Labo believes that the future of perfumery lies in the past, and its innovative approach has resulted in an eminently desirable array of hand-formulated perfumes, bodycare products, candles and oils. The brand’s philosophy is best experienced by visiting one of its stores; each boutique pays homage to the craftsmanship involved in creating fragrances to time-honoured methods, and each product is labelled with a number referring to the number of olfactory notes that make up the scent. dfLe Labo, 6 rue de Bourbon-le-Château, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4634 3765, lelabofragrances.com
TOP MAN
It’s difcult to fnd a high-fashion label that better encapsulates the modern French menswear aesthetic than Saint Laurent. This season’s Saint Laurent man is more polished than previously, while creative director Hedi Slimane’s rock sensibility still plays a prevalent part. Coats and jackets are the main focus, and mohair, houndstooth and animal prints can be found throughout the collection; look out for the high-waisted tapered trousers, which have a looser ft than last season’s drainpipe design. rpSaint Laurent,53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5383 8453, ysl.com
* for map go to page 75
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AMERICAN STYLE
Founded in a New York loft in 1941, Coach originally specialised in beautifully crafted leather goods. Over the years its oferings expanded to include fragrances, watches, outerwear, luggage and much more. This season’s ready-to-
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app
to help you to plan your trip. The app
gives information on 45 cities in 22
countries – thousands of stores are
listed and located on maps, with full
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you right to the store and can also be
downloaded for offine use enabling
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Tax Refund wallet becomes available,
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The app is available in Chinese, English
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Calculator to tell you how much you’ll
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are also instructions on how to use
Currency Choice, our service that allows
you to pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
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wear collection, the frst from acclaimed British accessories designer Stuart Vevers, features rich autumnal colours which complement relaxed silhouettes. Inspired by American heritage and modern Manhattan cool, the collection is a relaxed take on sporty style. Paired with relaxed accessories in black leather, it ofers a youthful, modern approach to luxury. hlCoach,Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4266 1495,coach.com
Download the Global Blue guide
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38 | NEWS
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EXPERT TOUCH
Luxury smartphone brand Vertu is
constantly pushing the boundaries in high-end
technology and its latest model, the Signature
Touch, is no exception. Blending cutting-
edge technology with luxurious handcrafting,
the device incorporates speakers designed in
collaboration with Danish audio experts Bang
& Olufsen and a 13-megapixel camera certifed
by Swedish photography specialist Hasselblad.
The stunning 118-carat sapphire crystal,
5.1-inch screen features a high-defnition
display. In Vertu’s trademark slimline design,
the Signature Touch has a grade-5 titanium
casing, brushed and polished fnishes, and
handcrafted leather backings. Combining
quality, craftsmanship and style, this phone
is truly world class. rp
Vertu,
18 rue Royale, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4286 5666, vertu.com
* for map go to page 78
faSHIOn faVOURITE
Parisian brand Carven has chosen the
Marais district as the site of its third standalone
store in the city, which is a spacious new
boutique dedicated to womenswear. The brand,
which was founded in 1945, is fourishing
under creative director Guillame Henry. from
art-inspired prints to the perfect winter coat,
the label is now responsible for some of the
most sought-after items, all providing efortless
french cool. Carven has become a favourite of
street-style stars and fashion editors the world
over, and is likely to win the hearts of any visitor
to the rue Mahler store. hl
Carven, 8 rue Mahler,
75004 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4277 9765,
carven.com
40 | NEWS
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86
TAILOR MADE
Using the best Italian fabrics and made by skilled tailors in Europe, the shirts from German brand Emanuel Berg are of the utmost quality. Ofering an extensive range of styles, with numerous variations on collars, cufs, buttons, materials and fts, the boutique ensures that visitors will fnd the perfect item. Famous for its classic men’s pieces, Emanuel Berg also ofers beautifully tailored women’s shirts which are made with just as much care and skill. hlEmanuel Berg,140 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5375 4801,emanuelberg.com
* for map go to page 77
FRENCH TRADITION
Camille Fournet set up his business in a workshop where he trained craftsmen in the art of leatherwork. The company produces bags, wallets and accessories showing classic French style with a modern twist, always made with the fnest materials. Its items can be found around the world while in Paris, a new Camille Fournet store has recently opened
on the prestigious rue Cambon. This is one of the last leather merchants to make all of its products in France, meaning that any item from here is a piece of French tradition to treasure at home. hlCamille Fournet,5 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7376,camillefournet.com
* for map go to page 77
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Céline’s ready-to-wear items are internationally acclaimed by critics and by the women who wear them. Under Phoebe Philo’s creative control, Céline has become one of the most exciting fashion brands in Paris, and its success is such that it has just opened its fourth store in the French capital. The new boutique has the best of the current collection, from comfortable knitwear to tailored pieces scattered with embellishments. Visitors will also fnd a selection of the brand’s must-have handbags and accessories. hlCéline, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 0703, celine.com
* for map go to page 75
MIU MIU ONE-OFF
Much-loved fashion label Miu Miu has opened a pop-up boutique on place Beauvau in the centre of the city. The luxurious space, designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi, will be open for one year only. Miu Miu’s distinctive gold damask emblem features in abundance throughout the interior, covering walls, furniture and sofas. Black marble passageways
and plush carpets entice visitors to explore the two-storey space, while large metal-framed windows overlook the public square outside. Encompassing over 500 square metres dedicated to Miu Miu’s clothing, handbags, accessories and footwear, this is an essential place to visit for the brand’s fun and fabulous aesthetics. glMiu Miu, place Beauvau, 92 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com
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SHOP | 43
Achieve the innately French art of elegance with this guide by Clare Coulson
The Secrets of Parisian Style
Lef: Coco Chanel photographed by Henry Clarke, 1955, on display at The 50s exhibition at Palais Galliera
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Above (from lef): Cristobal Balenciaga Baby Doll dress, 1958-1959; Christian Dior dress, autumn/winter 1947, both on display at The 50s exhibition at Palais Galliera
The look may be polished and artful, but French women always make it seem easy to achieve
The French can stake a claim to excelling
in many areas, including wine-making and
cookery, and the nation is also known to have
perfected a supremely chic style that has been
much mimicked, but never really matched.
The ideal of Parisian dressing was
exemplifed in the 1950s, when the city’s
haute couture dictated fashion trends around
the world. This season, Palais Galliera, the
city’s fashion museum, celebrates Paris’s role
in global clothing design with an exhibition,
The 50s. It will gather together the fnest
examples of chic French dressing, starting
with Christian Dior’s game-changing, highly
feminine ‘new look’, through to the advent of
Yves Saint Laurent. From wasp-waisted suits
to cocktail dresses, contributions will also come
from other leading lights including Chanel,
Givenchy and Balmain. While the style of the
designs from each label was vastly diferent,
each house promoted a supreme elegance which
has continued to infuence what we wear.
We may not try to ft ourselves into those
tightly corseted hour-glass jackets anymore,
but the fundamental building blocks of Parisian
style remain the same. There are a few rules:
build a wardrobe of classic pieces in beautiful
materials including cashmere coats, expertly
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Above (from lef): Céline; Nina Ricci, both autumn/winter 2014/15
cut separates, and feminine but simple silk
blouses; focus on neutral colours (including
a collection of black basics) and then put them
together with a light touch. The look may be
polished and artful, but French women always
make it seem easy to achieve.
All these elements come together – albeit
in an avant-garde way – in Phoebe Philo’s
autumn/winter collection for Céline which
ofers endless chic options: stunning cocooning
coats for girls on the go, plush fur mufs, neat
dove-grey dresses for day, and wraps and
sumptuous satin skirts for evening. She may
be British, but Philo’s 21st-century updating
of the classic lines of Parisian couture is
thoroughly convincing.
The aesthetic at Nina Ricci is very
diferent, focusing on light, feminine themes,
but the autumn collection by Peter Copping
also displays Parisian elegance, with silk blouses
and demure pencil skirts, ladylike suits, fufy
knits, mink trimmed heels and neat little clutch
bags. Copping takes a more gamine, youthful
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48 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top): Cartier Clou bracelet; Boucheron Serpent Bohème Toi et Moi yellow gold and diamond ring; Van Cleef & Arpels pink gold Cosmos pendant
Jewellery is where French women allow themselves some adornment
approach than many of his contemporaries,
but he still plunders the rich lexicon of
Parisian elegance.
Of course there are some embellishments
that are timeless and chic enough to add to
the mix – jewellery is where French women
allow themselves some adornment, perhaps
a stack of gold bangles from Cartier, a sparkling
diamond pendant from Van Cleef & Arpels
or a stunning cocktail ring from Boucheron.
These pieces, nonetheless, are still worn in a
typically Parisian way – understatedly, without
too much fuss. And never look like you are
trying too hard
palaisgalliera.paris.fr, celine.com,
ninaricci.com, cartier.com,
vancleefarpels.com, boucheron.com
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THE EXCEPTION NOW HAS AN ADDRESS: 68 CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - PARIS 8e
PERFUMES - COSMETICS - SPA - RESTAURANT
T H E L A RG E S T
S I N G L E - B R A N D
PERFUMES AND
COSMETICS BOUTIQUE
IN THE WORLD
WWW.GUERLAIN.COM
50 | F E AT U R E S
Above: concept drawing of the frst panther bracelet for Wallis Simpson, platinum set with white diamonds, onyx spots and emerald eyes, Cartier Paris, 1959
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SHOP | 51
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96
In Focus:
The cartier Panther
Created 100 years ago, Cartier’s panther motif has adorned some of the most desirable pieces of jewellery. Stephen Doig looks at its historyIt’s hard to think of a style icon of the 20th century who attracted the same kind of attention as Wallis Simpson, the American divorcee whose charms prompted a British king to relinquish his throne in order for them to marry. Unsurprisingly, her exacting eye picked
out some phenomenally opulent pieces of jewellery and she was known for her admiration of la panthère de Cartier – the Cartier panther, a symbol seen on a number of items made by the Parisian jewellery company.
While others – including Elizabeth Taylor – have fallen for the charms of the Cartier panther, it’s perhaps Simpson who will be remembered as its biggest champion. She frst purchased a three-dimensional version of the cat, which sat atop a brooch, in 1948 and she went on to commission a second piece the following year featuring a platinum cat
52 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top): Cartier archive drawings for some of the brand’s frst panther jewellery designs; Jeanne Toussaint, artistic director of jewellery at Cartier from 1933 to 1970; Cartier panther brooch, as purchased by Wallis Simpson in 1948
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on a cabochon sapphire. Her trinity of feline
favourites was completed when she invested in
a climbing onyx and diamond panther brooch.
This brooch once again hit the spotlight in
2010 when it was auctioned, along with other
pieces from Simpson’s jewellery collection, for
€5.5 million, amid rumours that Madonna was
a possible buyer.
Representing, to many, fearsomeness,
sensuality and exoticism, the panther appeared
on early 20th-century powder boxes, cigarette
holders and vanity cases, and later was used on
handbags. It can also be seen dancing across
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54 | FEATURES
watches, draped elegantly from earrings and
its head has formed a ring in gold and emerald.
The wild cat was frst incorporated into
Cartier’s designs in 1914 when the house,
founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier,
created a motif in black onyx and diamonds
on the background of a timepiece. But it
was the renowned innovator and creative
Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s artistic director
of jewellery from 1933 to 1970, who unleashed
the creature’s potential. She was recognised
in Parisian society for her trailblazing attitude
and became known as the Panther.
The launch of Cartier’s La Panthère
fragrance in 2014 to mark the panther’s
centenary serves to honour both the wild cat
that’s so entwined with the house and the
woman who steered the house forward.
Cartier’s elegant panther has prowled
through recent history, decorating some of
the world’s most famous women. And while
the label’s menagerie of animals is expansive
(it also uses crocodile, parrot, serpent and
famingo symbols), it’s undoubtedly the panther
that holds the most fascinating allure
cartier.com PH
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Above (clockwise from top): Cartier Panther collection ring in yellow gold with black lacquer, onyx and tsavorite garnets; in 1914 Cartier incorporated the animal for the frst time in this wristwatch with a panther-spots motif; Cartier’s la Panthère fragrance which was launched in 2014
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56 | FEATURES
SHOP | 57
Lef: Lanvin Blanche Bridal collection 2014/90 93
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Big-dayDressing
Make the ultimate statement in a wedding gown designed in the world’s great romantic city, says Frances Wasem
When Cara Delevingne’s sister Poppy married
in May 2014 wearing a Chanel haute couture
bridal gown, the world was reminded how
stunning a made-to-order French wedding
dress can be. Crafted in Paris by some of the
most exacting seamstresses, and overseen
by Karl Lagerfeld, the dress was testament
to the power of Parisian couture in the
wedding world.PH
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Although it was a British monarch, Queen
Victoria, who started the trend for white bridal
dresses when she married in 1840 – prior to
then, most women wore their ‘best’ dress to
their wedding – Parisians spearheaded the
desire for a once-in-a-lifetime, fairytale version.
By the 1950s most couture designers were
ending their catwalk shows with a bridal gown.
It was pure theatre and allowed the designer
58 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top lef): Audrey Hepburn marries Andrea Mario Doti wearing French designer Givenchy, 1969; Guerlain’s Hall of Mirrors in the Champs-Élysées store; Valentino haute couture spring/summer 2014
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to proudly walk the runway as members of the audience rose in their seats in roaring appreciation. A couture wedding dress became the ultimate statement in luxury.
Since then, many high-profle women have turned to the ateliers of Paris for the ultimate wedding outft. Who could forget Audrey Hepburn’s shift dress and headscarf from Hubert de Givenchy in the 1960s, Gwen Stefani in Christian Dior, or Catherine Zeta Jones in layers of romance, courtesy of Christian Lacroix. Recent brides who have embraced French couture have included Anne Hathaway in Valentino and fashion stylist Caroline Sieber in Chanel, who rejected white in favour of light grey in a traditional style that nodded to her Austrian heritage.
These large fashion houses turn to specialist businesses and artisans to make the intricate details found on many dress, and Chanel now owns seven such ateliers. Decades of skill are kept alive in France’s leading
ateliers, such as at the embroidery company Guillet, which specialises in fabric fowers.
Calais lace is another sought-after addition, and at Valentino’s show last season, the models walked down the runway wearing this with silk and light tulle.
For all the tradition, designers are also giving dresses a modern edge. Lanvin’s riotous brides sported tattoos, Elie Saab’s wedding dress was in pale pink while Giambattista Valli described his 1960s-inspired dress as ‘temperamental, spontaneous and urban’.
High-profle designers are now creating ready-to-wear collections for the woman with her special day coming up. Lanvin’s Blanche collection has a wide selection of dresses, and Hervé Léger’s range includes the house’s signature bandage dresses along with fshtail gowns and traditionally female designs. Delphine Manivet, who worked at haute couture company Rochas before starting her own bridal label in 2004, creates pieces
SHOP | 59
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create your own wedding scent at Guerlain on Champs-Élysées.
Maison Michel creates delicate headpieces while, for lingerie, follow in the footsteps of Naomi Campbell and Catherine Deneuve and head to Sabbia Rosa (73 rue des Saints-Pères) or pay a visit to Carine Gilson for exquisite pieces in Lyon silk and Chantilly lace.
Your wedding heels can come from Christian Louboutin (who has been known to create custom-coloured soles for the big day, departing from his trademark red version) or from Philippe Atienza at Massaro, and for something suitable for dancing in during the evening, look to Repetto’s perfectly crocheted lace ballet fats
What could be more romantic? chanel.com, lanvin.com, eliesaab.com, giambattistavalli, herveleger.com, delphinemanivet.com, guerlain.com, carinegilson.com, christianlouboutin.com, massaro.fr
High-profile designers are now creating ready-to-wear collections for the woman with her special day coming up
with a wonderful whimsical quality, featuring rufed collars.
Of course, Paris can provide all the other items you’ll need. Chanel has just launched a wedding make-up service and you can
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60 | EXPER IENCE
Paris’s gastronomic reputation is well
established, with the city’s talented chefs
and high-quality French produce attracting
international acclaim. The choice available is
vast, with an array of restaurants and cafés,
each with a distinctive style and atmosphere.
The range of cuisines is equally impressive,
ranging from rustic country fare to refned
Mediterranean specialities; an unrivalled
selection of meats and cheeses can also be
found in the city.
French gastronomy is held in such high
regard that it has earned a place on Unesco’s
Intangible World Heritage list. This exemplary
reputation has attracted a number of highly
trained chefs to the city as well as gourmet
diners with high standards. The city’s top-end
culinary artists can be found presiding over
Paris’s luxury hotel kitchens and historic dining
rooms, while a younger generation is making
waves by combining cuisine gastronomique
and traditional bistro fare into the lively
‘bistronomie’ cuisine.
Table TalkParis’s gourmet reputation continues
to thrive thanks to its diverse mix of
established eateries and newly opened
experimental restaurants. Verity
Hogan peruses the menus at some of
the city’s best
SHOP | 61
L a T a b L e d U
L a n c a s T e r
delightfully intimate and
suitably refned, the décor
at La Table du Lancaster
refects the elegant cuisine
produced by chef Julien
roucheteau. His dishes are
based on seasonal ingredients
and feature vivid favours in
creative combinations. The
menu is regularly updated,
but typical options include
trufe-stufed scallops with
watercress sauce, veal with
nutmeg, and roasted bresse
pigeon with caramelised
chicory. be sure to book
ahead to secure a table
ofering views of the hotel’s
manicured interior garden.
La Table du Lancaster,
Hotel Lancaster, 7 rue de
berri, 75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4076 4076,
hotel-lancaster.com
62 | EXPER IENCE
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L a T o u r d ’ a r g e n T
a Parisian institution, La Tour d’argent is
internationally renowned for its traditional
pressed duck. The location has served food
since 1582 and provides exquisite views of
Parisian landmarks, including notre-dame.
Chef Laurent delarbre oversees a menu
that honours the restaurant’s heritage while
L e J u L e s V e r n e
serving contemporary French cuisine in one
of Paris’s most extraordinary locations, Le
Jules Verne restaurant takes its diners on a
culinary adventure worthy of its namesake.
The restaurant is set within the Tour eifel
(eifel Tower), 125m above ground, and
ofers exceptional panoramic views across
the city. Patrick Jouin’s interior design befts
the scenery with a contemporary and elegant
space that is also surprisingly cosy. opt for
the experience tasting menu to try fve or six
courses selected by the chef and paired with
carefully chosen wines.
Le Jules Verne,
Tour eifel, avenue gustave eifel, 75007 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4555 6144,
lejulesverne-paris.com
continuing to push culinary boundaries.
Typical dishes include turbot favoured
with star anise, fennel and asparagus, and
beef fllet with bone marrow and slow-
simmered spinach.
La Tour d’Argent,
15 quai de la Tournelle,
75005 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4354 2331,
latourdargent.com
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r e s T a u r a n T L e B a T
despite its understated exterior, restaurant Le
Bat boasts one of Paris’s most innovative dining
concepts by providing a French take on tapas.
The kitchen is creative and consistently inspired,
crafting a menu that is regularly updated and
based on the freshest seasonal produce. Chef
Yaniv Berrebi is known for his experimental
T h e B e e F C L u B
The latest venture from the experimental
Cocktail Club team, The Beef Club shares the
group’s speakeasy aesthetic with atmospheric
low lighting and white tiled walls. The décor
helps to create an extremely stylish steakhouse
and the menu is tailored to meat enthusiasts and
features sirloin, rib-eye, tenderloin and rump
approach, resulting in dishes such as beef
tartare topped with aged Parmesan, and shrimp
served with a quinoa salad and peanut-wasabi
vinaigrette. The dining room is appropriately
modern with a minimalist scandinavian design
and plenty of warm tones.
Restaurant Le Bat,
16 boulevard Montmartre, 75009 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4246 1425,
le-bat.com
steaks alongside beef burgers topped with bacon,
pickles, onion, red Leicester cheese and whisky
sauce. Be sure to try the sides: mushrooms fried
in escargot butter, and rustic fries cooked in duck
fat, are two of the highlights.
The Beef Club,
58 rue Jean-Jacques rousseau,
75001 Paris,
+33 (0)9 5437 1365,
eccbeefclub.com
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64 | EXPER IENCE
Stay In Style
The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
SofItel rome VIlla BorgHeSe
Situated in one of Rome’s most sought-after, elegant locations, the Softel Rome Villa Borghese is within walking distance of the Spanish steps, an array of fashionable boutiques and many of the city’s main attractions. The hotel is housed within an historic 19th-century building and features refned, natural-chic
décor throughout its interior. Each of the 104 luxurious bedrooms ofers spectacular city views and is equipped with modern amenities. Be sure to visit the rooftop restaurant La Terrasse during your stay; the combination of French and Italian-inspired cuisine with panoramic views is sure to impress.Softel Rome Villa Borghese, Via Lombardia 47, 00187 Rome, +39 06 478021, softel.com
Hotel VIer JaHreSzeIten KempInSKI
Built at the request of King Maximilian II, the prestigious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski has been welcoming guests since 1858. Its location on one of the world’s most elegant boulevards has long attracted a highly distinguished clientele, including leading
personalities from the worlds of politics, business, art and culture. The hotel’s high standards of service are unrivalled, while the diferent décor in each of its rooms gives the hotel unique charm. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s restaurant, Vue Maximilian, with its menu of delicious regional specialities.Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski,Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 2799, kempinski.com
SHOP | 65
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66 | E X PE R I E NCE
Renaissance
BaRcelona Hotel
The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned for ofering its guests an exceptional standard of service, as well as sleek, contemporary interior design. Each of its guestrooms features luxurious bedding, individual climate-control settings, high-speed Internet and modern
bathroom suites, while the ftness centre, open 24 hours a day, is an added perk. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s highly acclaimed steakhouse; Cru serves only the fnest Black Angus beef alongside a carefully selected range of premium wines.Renaissance Barcelona Hotel,Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona, +34 93 272 3810, marriott.com
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GUIDE | 69
Guide
Above: Sacré Coeur
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a
look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest designer boutiques to
the coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper
with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and
detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.
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Place Of Interest Metro Train Station
70 | GU I DE
Paris
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RUE RÉAUMUR
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BOULEVARD DE LA CHAPELLE
VOIE GEORGES POMPIDOU
R
UE LA FAYETTE RUE DE M
AUBEUGEGARE DU NORD
CITÉ
HOTEL DE VILLE
SAINT-SULPICE
SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS
LOUVRE -RIVOLI
PONT NEUF CHÂTELET
LES HALLES
PYRAMIDES
QUATRE -SEPTEMBRE
BOURSE
SENTIER
RÉAUMUR -SÉBASTOPOL
STRASBOURG -SAINT-DENIS
JACQUES BONSERGENT
CHÂTEAU D'EAU
GARE DE L'EST
POISSONNIÈRE
CADETLE PELETIER
NOTRE-DAME-DE-LORETTE
TRINITÉ - D'ESTIENNED'ORVES
CHAUSSÉE D'ANTIN - LAFAYETTE
BONNE NOUVELLE
GRANDSBOULEVARDS
RICHELIEU - DROUOT
PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE
DU LOUVRE
OPÉRA GARNIER
BLANCHE
SAINT-GEORGES
SAINT-MICHEL
MABILLON
ODEON
CLUNY - LASORBONNE
MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ
HÔTEL DE VILLE
PONT MARIE
SAINT-PAUL
ÉTIENNE MARCEL
TEMPLE
ARTS ET MÉTIERS
RAMBUTEAU
MOULIN ROUGE
MUSÉE DU LOUVRE
NOTRE DAME DE PARIS
Galeries Lafayete
CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
1 Nina Ricci
Find Parisian elegance at Nina Ricci where Peter Copping’s collection features demure pencil skirts, ladylike suits and silk blouses. 39 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris,+33 (0)1 8397 7212, ninaricci.com
* featured on page 43
2 Tiffany & Co
Admire the precious jewels and signature powder blue boxes on show at Tiffany’s newly-opened boutique. 62 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8482 0200, tiffany.fr
* featured on page 34
3 L’Eclaireur
Update your wardrobe and discover a selection of the world’s most avant-garde designer labels at this eclectic concept store. 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0370,leclaireur.com
* featured on page 76
4 Le Jules Verne
Enjoy panoramic views and an international menu in one of Paris’s most famed landmarks with a meal at Le Jules Verne in the Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower). Tour Eiffel, avenue Gustave Eiffel, 75007 Paris,+33 (0)1 4555 6144,lejulesverne-paris.com
* featured on page 62
5 Spend a Sunday wandering around the bright and colourful stalls of the Marché aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux (Flower and Bird Market) on Île de la Cité.place Louis Lépine, 75004 Paris,en.parisinfo.com
* featured on page 81
globalblue.com
72 | GUIDE
globalblue.com
‘With an array of cultural
attractions, wide shopping
boulevards and some of the
world’s finest gastronomy, Paris
is a city that continues to charm
on every visit’ Ximena Daneri,
SHOP’s assistant market and
fashion editor
PH
OTO
S: X
IMEN
A D
AN
ERI;
MÓ
NIC
A G
OYA
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
SHOP | 73
Follow our team’s travels on
Instagram @globalblue. Tag
us in your city pictures when
sharing them and you might
see them in print!
74 | GUIDE
Metro
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Global Blue Refund Ofce
P.34
SHOP | 75
Avenue des Champs-Elysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne
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HARRY WINSTON ●
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● BLUMARINE● JIL SANDER
● DOLCE & GABBANA
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Place Of Interest
P.36
P.41
Featured In This Issue
76 | GUIDE
globalblue.com
1. Fleux
Lifestyle boutique Fleux stocks a plethora of decorative and
design pieces, favouring unashamedly luxurious items. The
expansive store is home to a vast product range, offering
everything from furniture and lighting to tableware, with
designs spanning from bright multicoloured polka dots to
earth-toned neutrals.
39 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4278 2720, fleux.com
2. L’Eclaireur
A pioneer on Paris’s fashion landscape, L’Eclaireur blurs the
boundaries between clothing and interior design in a unique
store which stocks some of the world’s most avant-garde
brands. The store features pieces for men and for women,
and provides a personal service for each visitor. Expect to
find pieces by Balmain, Carven, Haider Ackermann, Marni
and Rick Owens.
10 rue Boissy d’Anglas,
75008 Paris,
+33 (0)1 5343 0370,
leclaireur.com
3. Arty Dandy
The concept store Arty Dandy features interior design, fashion
and contemporary art items, with a focus on pieces which
are high-quality, original and modern. The range is constantly
updated and Arty Dandy has links with designers, brands
and manufactures to ensure the very latest pieces are in
stock. Look out for up-to-the-minute items by Maison Martin
Margiela, Freitag, Peter Sorensen and Alice Hubert.
1 rue de Furstenberg,
75006 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4354 0036,
artydandy.com
TOP CONCEPT STORES
1
2
3
SHOP | 77
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
RUE DU FAUBOU RG SAINT-HONORÉ RUE DU FAUB OURG SAINT-HONORÉ
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NO
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CH
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INS
BL
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CS
●
CA
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L ●
NU
●
METAL FLAQUE ●
BRUCE FIELD ●
Place AndréMalraux
FREYWILLE ●ZADIG &
VOLTAIRE ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
AU
DIO
●
TE
CH
NIC
A
● KRIS VAN ASSCHE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
P.40
P.40
Featured In This Issue
78 | GUIDE
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale
RU
D E
’AN
UJO
RU
E G
OD
OT
DE
MA
UR
OY
RU
E C
AU
MA
RT
IN
RU
E T
RO
NC
HE
T
RU
E T
RO
NC
HE
T
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT- HONORÉ RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
RUE AUBER
BOU
LEVARD DE L
A MADELEIN
E
Place de laMadeleine
RU
E R
OY
AL
E
BOU
LEVARD M
ALESH
ERBES
BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN
ZARA HOME ●LIPAULT ●
LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT ●
ZWILLING ●
BCBGMAXAZRIA ●
FRANCOIS
● PINET
● J.M
. WESTON
● LAVINIA
● HEYRAUD
● M
ANDARINA DUCK
● ARCHE
● C&
A
● DECATHLON
● KENZO
● MAISON DE FAMILLE
● TRUSSARDI
MA
RG
AR
ET
HO
WE
LL ●
MA
ILL
E ●
MA
SS
IMO
DU
TT
I ●
RA
LP
H L
AU
RE
N ●
● FAUCHON
● SEPHORA● ALAIN FIGARET
● MARELLA
● GAP
● MASSIMO DUTTI
● CAFE COTON● EKYOG● LA MAROQUINERIE PARISIENNE
● NATALYS● BONNIE DOON● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX● WINONA● EMA PIAZI● CHASSAGNARD● NARACAMICIE
● GANTS HELION
● CAROLL● JB GUANTI
● THE KOOPLES● LA CARPE● LA BAGAGERIE● CHRISTINE LAURE● SALAMANDER● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS● MADURA● FAIRMOUNT● CAREL● PIERRE CUVEX
GERARD ● DAREL● PINEL & PINEL● THE KOOPLES● MARINA RINALDI● VERTU
● WEMPE
● POIRAY● LACHAUME● CORINA● ROYAL QUARTZ
● MILLIAUD● O.J PERRIN● HAVILAND / DAUM
● ARTHUS BERTRAND
GUERLAIN ●
UN JOUR AILLEURS ●
DJULA ●
DEVERNOIS ●
MARIONNAUD ●
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
EXCLUSIF ●NESPRESSO ●
SABON ●PRINCESSE TAM-TAM ●
RODIER ●CHARLES COTONAY ●
EMLING ●
AUBADE ●ETAM LINGERIE ●
CARETTA ●ARTHUR ●
OLIVER GRANT ●
JACADI ●
DIELETH ●
CATIMINI ●
BRITISH STOCK ●
OBREY ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
SAINT JAMES ●
CORALIE ●NICOLAS ●
● ERES
● SWAROVSKI
● FAUCHON
A. TESTONI ●HEURGON ●
BONPOINT ●ST LOUIS ●
BERNARDAUD ●CRISTAL LALIQUE ●
CHRISTOFLE ●J.L COQUET ●
CHANEL ●APC ●
GUCCI ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●GUCCI ●
LE JARDIND’ULYSSE ●
● BURBERRY
CROCKETT AND JONES ●
OLIVER ● GRANT
● BRUCE FIELD
MADELEINE
● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS
LOUIS PION ●ODIOT ●
PATRICK ROGER ●GUY DEGRENNE ●
LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE ● DIOR ●
ESCALES ●
CERRUTI ●
DIOR ●
BELL & ROSS ●
MANFIELD ●
ALAIN MARTINIERE ●
● NAPAPIJRIESCALES ●
● EMLING
BOSE ●
● BACCARAT
SAMSUNG ●
HEDIARD ●
MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ●
CAVIAR KASPIA ●
YUMI KATSURA ●
JAMIN PEUCH ●
HERVÉ CHAPELIER ●
LES ATELIERS DE LA MAILE ●TOM FORD ●
HEDEGREN ●
CHANEL ●
FAURÉ LE PAGE ●
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
RU
E B
OIS
SY
D'A
NG
LA
S
NINE WEST ●
JEAN VIER ●
ALESSI ●
LAGUIOLE ●
MAJE ●
JOHN LOBB ●
HERMÈS ●
● SIA
● EPISODE
● YVES DELORME
● THE KOOPLES
● GUY DEGRENNE
● AGATHA
● ANNE FONTAINE
● ERIC BOMPARD
● BRIC’S
● KI6
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro Hotel
P.38
Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 79
Boulevard des Capucines& Rue Scribe
Place Vendôme& Rue de la Paix
RU
E V
OL
NE
Y
RUE DAUNOU
RU
E S
CR
IBE
R
UE
DE
LA
PA
IX
RUE AUBER
B
OU
LE
VA
RD
DE
S C
AP
UC
INE
S
Place Opéra
ZARA ●BA G BYAP ●
GUESS ●
LANCEL ●
● BENETTON
● ERIC BOMPARD
GOLFINO ●
PHILIPPE FERRANDIS ●
● HABITAT● AIGLE
● BASLER PRINCESSE
● TAM.TAM
● CALIDA
● IKKS
● OMEGA
● BALLY
● MC GREGOR
● LACOSTE● HACKETT
● MANFIELD● GANT
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
CAFE DE LA PAIX ●
KIWI ●
DESIGUAL ●
GAP ●
MAJE ●
MATY ●
BONBON
WATCH ●
EDEN PARK ●
TAG HEUER ●
CARTIER ●
BUCHERER ●
CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●
PERIGOT ●
RU
E D
E L
A P
AIX
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
BO
ULE
VA
RD
DE
S C
AP
UC
INE
S
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
Place Opéra
CHOPARD ●
FRED ●
OMEGA ●
ROLEX ●
DUBAIL ●
PlaceVendôme
JAEGER - LECOULTRE ●
● GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI
● RICHARD MILLE ● ST CHARLES● DAMIANI ● GUERLAIN
CARTIER ●
● CHRISTOFLE● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT● REPETTO● LALIQUE● ZIMMERLI● BEAUME ET MERCIER ● MASSIMO DUTTI
● LERY● STARK & SONS● DINH VAN● BURMA● BREUER● KORLOFF● FOLLI FOLLIE● BREITLING● JAQUET DROZ● BREGUET● ROLEX● TIFFANY & CO.● HARRY WINSTON● DAUM● CECLAVACHERON ● CONSTANTIN
● JAIME MASCARO● BENETTON
MENARD ●ALAIN
FIGARET ●WASKOLL ●
A.LANGE & SHONE ●VAN LAACK ●
GAREL ●COMPTOIR DES
COTONNIERS ●BACCARAT ●
ALFRED DUNHILL ●
IWC ●
GARLAND ●
CARTIER ●
MELLERIO ●
HERZO ●
MONTBLANC ●
OFFICINE PANERAI ●PARK HYATT●
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ●
BULGARI ● ● CHARVET● M26 VENDOME● BOUCHERON
● VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS
● BLANCPAIN
● MAUBOUSSIN● CHANEL● PIAGET● SWATCH● CHAUMET● HUBLOT
PATEK● PHILIPPE
● MIKIMOTO
● DIOR
● B
REGUET
LOUIS V
UITTON ●
1. Comptoir des Cotonniers
Specialising in casually chic clothing infused with Gallic
attitude, Comptoir des Cotonniers is the perfect place to visit
when looking to emulate effortless Parisian style. The label’s
collections can be relied upon to demonstrate meticulous
attention to detail and are universally high-quality. Expect a
range of loose silhouettes, versatile separates and carefully
chosen accessories.
Comptoir des Cotonniers, 17 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4703 3206, comptoirdescotonniers.com
2. Eric Bompard
The cashmere collections at Eric Bompard’s boutique provide
supreme comfort as well as style. The store plays host to a
diverse range often featuring playful motifs, embellishment
and patchwork prints.
Eric Bompard, 2 rue Scribe, 75009 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4265 0916, eric-bompard.com
3. Jaime Mascaro
Heritage label Jaime Mascaro is known for using the finest
Italian and Spanish leathers to create pieces that range from
formal pumps to stretch-top riding boots.
Jaime Mascaro, 38 avenue de l’Opéra, 75002 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4742 8178, mascaro.com
STANDOUT STORES
2
globalblue.com
80 | GUIDE
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle
R
UE
VIE
UX
CO
LO
MB
IER
RU
E S
AIN
T S
UL
PIC
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RUE D
U D
RAG
ON
RU
E D
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HE
RC
HE
-MID
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RUE DES SAINTS PÈRES
BOULEVARD R ASPAIL
SÈVRES - BABYLONE
RUE DE G
RENELLE
RU
E D
E S
ÈV
RE
SRUE BONAPARTE
RUE BONAPARTE
BO
UL
EV
AR
D S
AIN
T-GE
RM
AIN
SAINT-GERMAINDES-PRÉS
MABILLON
RU
E D
U F
OU
R
R
UE D
E REN
NES
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
SAINT-SULPICE
● BURBERRY
● LODING ● DARON
● NANIE● AIGLE
● JUST CAMPAGNE
SAIN
T
● LAU
RENT
● PA
RA
BOO
T
● A
LEXIS M
ABILLE
● M
AISO
N M
ARTIN
MA
RGIELA
● CA
RVEN
● G
RENELLE
● ELISA
BETTA FRA
NCH
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● 45' A
I IND
IGO
● PRIN
CESSE TAM
.TAM
● L.K
. BENN
ETT
EMM
AN
UELLE
● ZY
SMA
N
● K
ABU
KI
● W
ICKET
SALVATO
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FERRAG
AM
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CHA
RLES KA
MM
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CÉLINE ●
CHACO
K ●
CARIN
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MO
SS ●
AM
I ●
SERGIO
ROSSI ●
JEAN
-BAPTISTE
RAU
TUREAU ●
IRIS ●
ECLAIR D
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PAUL SM
ITH ●
FIFI ●
CHRISTIA
N
LOU
BOU
TIN ●
SAIN
T HO
NO
RE MA
RKET
●
ICB ●
ELEVEN PARIS ●
DARMON ●
LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ●
● HEYRAUD● LA POINTURE● COSMO● KINZA● PATRICK GERARD● KOOKAÏ● LA CENTRALE● SILK & CASHMERE● BEL AIR● PETIT BATEAU● MANDARINA DUCK
● J
OSEPH
ARTS E
TBIJ
OU
X ●
● TRUSSARDI
● LA BAGAGERIE7 FOR ALL ● MANKIND
● HOTEL PARTICULIER● REPETTO● PATAUGAS
● SWATCH
● MANFIELD
● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI
● HOUR PASSION● LOSCO ● FREYWILLE● CAFÉ COTON
● OLIVER GRANT
● JET SET
● MARISA
● DERBY● PARALLELE● MAC DOUGLAS
● MAJE● PISCINE
● HERMÈS
KERRY MARA ●SANDRO ●
HESCHUNG ●SWILDENS ●
SUNDER ALWAYS ●
ARTHUR & FOX ● AUBADE ●
CALIEVA ●MARIONNAUD ●
● ANDRÉ
● VICTOIRE HOM
ME
● EM
LING
● M
ARCEL LASSANCE
● OLIVER GRANT
● LONGCHAM
P
● KARANTA
● CLAUDIE PIERLOT
● COSM
O PARIS
● POIRAY
● CAM
PER
GAP ●DESCAMPS ●LAMARTHE ●
ET VOUS ●UGG ●
REINE ROSALIE ●SUGAR ●VENISE ●
MANOUSH ●
APRIATI ●MARINA RINALDI ●
LARIO ●
O’FASHION ●GUESS ●
KIPLING ●B’ROOM
GRAFFITI ●PRINCESSETAM.TAM ●
DURANCE ●
BOBBI BROWN ●
PABLO ●GERARDDAREL ●
OMEGA ●
BERLUTI ●
ALAIN FIGARET ●CYRILLUS ●
LE TANNEUR ●BIBA ●
SUD EXPRESS ●
COP COPINE ●SINEQUANONE ●TARA JARMON ●
BOOT SHOP ●
CANDYROCKETS ●
TEENFLO ●
BIJOUTERIE PELLEGRIN ●
COMPTOIR DE FAMILLE ●
CARVEN ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●
SERGE BLANCO ●
LOLA ●
CHRISTIAN LACROIX ●
THEA SO SWEET ●
SAINT LAURENT ●
ANNICK GOUTAL ●
SEQUOIA ●NILAÏ ●
AUBADE ●AGNÈS B ●AXARA ●
MARIONNAUD ●
TWIN SET ●SATELLITE ●
AGNES & HOMME ●
● THE KOOPLES
HERVE● CHAPELIERZA
● DIG &VOLTAIRE
● AESOP● VILEBREQUIN
AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ●
MAXIMILIEN ●CAROLL ●
TIMBERLAND ●CORIOLAN ●
CHEVIGNON ●
FAÇONNABLE ●GERARD DAREL ●SHU UEMURA ●
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●MURAT ●
MAUBOUSSIN ●LIU JO ●
POIRAY ●
EMPORIO● ARMANI
● FRANCIS KLEIN
● CARON PARIS
● TAG HEUER● THE KOOPLES
● STEFAN GREEN● MONCLER
● RALPH LAUREN● SONIA RYKIEL
● ETROALEXANDRA ● SOJFER● EDWARD GREEN● SAVE THE QUEEN● LOEWE GALERIE
TED● BAKER
● SHADE● BARBARA BUI
● VENTILO
TOD’S ●
SHANG XIA ●
● MAJE STOCK
SANDROTHIBAULT ●
MONDERER ●
ARTHUS BERTRAND ●
LOUIS VUITTON ●
Le Bon Marché
LA HUNE
● A COTÉ
● JENISA
● JANE PHILIP
Brasserie Lipp
KARLLAGERFELD ●
VIGNES ●
BOSS ●
● NAPAPIJRI
SPRINT ●
● FABRICE
● FABRICE
PAULE KA ●
ISABEL MARANT ●
● MAX MARA
POM D’API ●
DIAMANTISSIMO ●FREELANCE ●GUESS ● IKKS ●
ALAMBRIC ●
Department Store
Metro
Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestNon-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
P.18
Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 81
Rue des Saints-Pères & Rue de Rennes
RU
E VIE
UX
CO
LOM
BIE
R
RU
E S
AIN
T S
UL
PIC
E
RUE DU
DR
AG
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RUE DES SAINTS PÈRES
RUE DE G
RENELLE
RU
E D
U F
OU
R
SAINT-SULPICE
BO
UL
EV
AR
D S
AIN
T-GE
RM
AIN
SAINT-GERMAINDES-PRÉS
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
RU
E DE R
ENN
ES
RUE BONAPARTE
RUE BONAPARTE
EMPORIO
ARM
ANI ●
MONOPRIX
●
STEFANEL ●
LOFT DESIG
N BY●
ROLEX ●
HACKETT LONDON ●
EL GANSO ●
KENZO ●
GAP KID
S ●
JO MALONE ●
GAP●
SAINT L
AURENT ●
SPORT MAX ●
ALAIN M
IKLI ●
CREED 1760 ●
MAC ●
L.BARRIE
R ●
MEPHIS
TO ●
BASH ●
ETRO ●
PÉPÉ ●
STONE PARIS ●
ESTHER VIN
A 1950 ●
PAUL & JOE H
OMM
E ●
PAUL & JOE F
EMM
E ●
MORGANNE B
ELLO ●
IRO ●
BABY BUDDHA ●
SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO ●
WOLFORD ●
SAINT JAM
ES ●
MADURA ●
YVES ROCHER ●
JONAK ●
ANDRÉ ●
ETAM L
INGERIE
●
VANE - B ●
LE 78 ●
ELISABETH S
TUART ●
RUDY’S ●
ROBERTO DURVIL
LE ●
TBS ●
● CARTIER● DEVERNOIS
● LANCEL● ZARA
● MONTBLANC● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS
● ESTEBAN● J.M. WESTON
● ORESSENCE● TOURNAIRE
● NAPAPIJRI● ICE WATCH
● JB GUANTI● THE KOOPLES
● BO CONCEPT● WEEKEND MAX MARA
CREATION D'ICI ● ET D'AILLEURS
● LEONIDAS
● FOSSIL
● ARTHUR
● BRANDY MELVILLE
● GEOX
● HENRY PHILIPPE●
PRADA
● E
LA STONE
● S
ANDRO
● R
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● A
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● F
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● H
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● D
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● S
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● L
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● S
ERVAN GAXOTTE
● A
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ANN
● Z
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● C
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JEAN CHARLES
● D
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● T
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Paris is best explored on foot; visitors travelling by metro are sure to miss out on some of the city’s hidden gems. The flower market on Île de la Cité is one sight that would be easy to overlook. Be sure to visit on a Sunday when the Marché aux Fleurs et aux Oiseaux is bursting with life, colour and sound.
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Above: Le Bristol restaurant
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: Antoine WestermAnn
Antoine Westermann is one of the most respected chefs in Paris. Previously awarded three michelin stars for his restaurant in strasbourg, he now runs mon Vieil Ami, Drouant and Le Coq rico as well as La Dégustation, a Champagne bar and deli, all in Paris. He shares his favourite spots in montmartre and in other areas of the city with Isabella Redmond Styles
mon-vieil-ami.com, drouant.com, lecoqrico.com, ladegustation.fr
‘i love all of Paris, each neighborhood has its own charm but i do have a preference for the La rive Droite on account of its history and eclectic spirit. in particular, i love montmartre for its strong historical identity, its laid-back inhabitants and its village mentality.
‘You’ll most likely fnd me at my restaurant, Drouant. it’s located in place Gaillon – i love the atmosphere in this square and to spend time walking the surrounding streets, in the spirit of An American in Paris.
‘my favourite walk, which i do almost on a daily basis, begins at Drouant. Walk through rue de Gramont, past notre Dame
de Lorette, down the beautiful rue des martyrs, and then past the moulin rouge, the lively rue Lepic, and up to sacré Cœur. Paris is full of beautiful and surprising views and the one from the end of rue de Gramont as i lift my eyes to look up at sacré Cœur is my favourite.
‘i strongly recommended seeing Paris on foot as this is the best way to feel that Paris is truly yours – the city has so much to ofer. it is full of treasures that will surprise you at every street corner, whether it’s the ambiance, history or a square you’ve never noticed before.
‘When it comes to food, i like exoticism
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Above (clockwise from lef): Restuarant Akrame; Le Jules Verne restaurant; Epices Roellinger
and the pleasure of a favourful journey. As i’m a French chef, i like to let my taste buds wander. As it’s in my neighbourhood, i regularly visit olivier roellinger’s famous spice grocery, Epices Roellinger – it’s a spice universe! i go to Mai Do for Vietnamese food and Chez Ly
for cuisine from Hong Kong; the best tunisian restaurant in Paris is Le Rendez-Vous.
‘With regard to spots near my restaurants in montmartre, i adore La Mascotte – whether it’s for a cofee on the bohemian terrace, or for a meal of Viennese whitefsh or for the wonderful shellfsh. if i have friends visiting me, i take them to enjoy the cuisine of several of my friends: Alain Ducasse’s
magical Le Jules Verne restaurant at the top of the eifel tower, Le Bristol, whose restaurants are overseen by eric Fréchon, or L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and of course to one of my own bistros! i might also take them to my latest local discovery, Restaurant Akrame, run by a young chef who i appreciate personally and for his cooking. He’s created a very pleasant small wine bar across from his restaurant as well.
‘on days of, i like to leave Paris and head to the Drôme Provençale region where i live, to my orchard and my garden. i have been a cyclist for 30 years – i need air and to move my legs!’
sHoP | 83
La Vallée Village
84 | GU I DE
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Don’t mIss…
Shopping day
this exclusive package includes:
• return tickets for the shopping Express ® luxury coach service from central Paris to the village
• A VIP card providing a further 10% saving on purchases in six boutiques of your choice
• A two-course lunch at natalie’s Café
• A €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your choice
Located just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris, adjacent to Disneyland Paris, La Vallée Village plays host to 120 luxury boutiques as well as to the Espace La Vallée Village ®contemporary art gallery. Each boutique typically ofers shoppers discounts of up to a third of regular retail prices.
La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com
Opening times
monday-Friday: 10am-7pmsaturday-sunday: 10am–8pm
VIP Shopping &
Cultural Package
this exclusive package includes:
• A one-way ticket from central Paris to the Village on the shopping Express® luxury coach service
• A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving at six boutiques of your choice
• A two-course lunch at natalie’s Café
• €50 gift voucher to be used in the boutique of your choice
• Private transfer in a chaufeur-driven car from the Village to Palais de tokyo
• A guided visit of the Palais de tokyo
SHOP | 85
Ximena Daneri, sHoP’s assistant fashion and market editor, describes a perfect day at La Vallée Village
How to GEt tHErE
By car from Paris
take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; 2,300 free spaces mean parking is never a problem.
By car from Reims
Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/Entrée A.
Shopping Express ®
coach service
La Vallée Village’s shopping Express ®
service ofers two daily coaches from central Paris. Depart from place des Pyramides at 9.30am and return from La Vallée Village at 2.30pm or depart at 12.30pm and return at 5pm.
By train
the closest tGV train station is marne-la-Vallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By rErtrain, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/serris montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every sunday.
12pm
take a break at Pret
A Manger which serves a selection of flled baguettes, crisp salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic cofees.
PErFECtDAY
4pm
Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples. the label’s collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create an androgynous style that is sure to stand out.
6pm
End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. the company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.
10am
start the day admiring the signature style of Sonia Rykiel’s
collections. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable.
3pm
Longchamp’s range of luggage, handbags and accessories has an international reputation for craftsmanship, creativity and design, with a playful edge.
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Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall E
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 3
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall DCharles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 1
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Pablo Kiosk
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Translations
Клэр Кульсон раскрывает секреты истинно французской элегантности
Французы могут похвастаться достижениями во многих областях, в частности, они знают толк в вине и хорошей кухне. Но, пожалуй, наибольшую известность получил неподражаемый парижский стиль. И пусть многие пытаются подражать ему - едва ли они добиваются в этом успеха.
Парижский стиль оформился в 1950-е, когда именно отсюда по всему миру распространялись главные тенденции высокой моды. В этом сезоне городской музей моды Palais Galliera проводит выставку Te 50s, с помощью которой обозначает ведущую роль французской
Русский ПеРевод
42: The Secrets Of Parisian Style
Тайна парижского шика
столицы в мире модного дизайна. В экспозицию вошли лучшие примеры знаменитого французского шика, от неподражаемо женственного «нового образа» Christian Dior до шедевров Yves Saint Laurent. Ведущие модные дома Франции, как Chanel, Givenchy и Balmain, будут представлены костюмами с зауженной талией, коктейльными платьями и другими известными моделями. Разумеется, эти именитые марки по-разному относятся к стилю. Однако их объединяет элегантность высшей пробы, которая по-прежнему оказывает решающее влияние на понимание хорошего вкуса.
Необязательно отдавать предпочтение уж слишком узким силуэтам «песочных часов». Однако базовые принципы парижского стиля остаются незыблемыми: основу гардероба составляют классические вещи из лучших материалов - кашемировые пальто, идеальный крой брюк, юбок и жакетов, а также женственные и лаконичные шелковые блузки нейтральных оттенков
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(в том числе подборка черных базовых вещей). Все эти вещи необходимо сочетать с легкой небрежностью. Француженки могут потратить много сил на создание образа и сделать тщательно отточенным, однако при этом выглядеть так, будто им это дается легко и непринужденно.
В коллекции Фиби Фило для Céline все эти элементы присутствуют в весьма авангардных версиях. Пальто-коконы, плюшевые муфты, лаконичные дневные платья светло-серого оттенка, шлейфы и роскошные сатиновые юбки на вечер – новая коллекция предлагает роскошные наряды для женщин, ведущих активный образ жизни. Несмотря на британское происхождение, Фиби Фило удалось весьма убедительно обновить классические линии парижского модного дома вполне в духе 21 века.
Коллекции Nina Ricci выполнены в несколько иной эстетике и сфокусированы на легкости и женственности. Осенняя серия, созданная дизайнером Питером Коппингом, в полной мере отражает знаменитую парижскую элегантность. Особенно это заметно в шелковых блузах и скромных зауженных юбках, женственных костюмах и мягких вязаных вещах, отделанных норковым мехом туфлях и лаконичных маленьких клатчах. Для творчества Коппинга характерен более девичий, молодежный стиль. Но и он, тем не менее, обращается к богатому арсеналу парижских приемов.
Разумеется, в таком гардеробе уместны и неподвластные времени, роскошные ювелирные украшения. В этом француженки могут даже позволить себе некоторое излишество, будь то набор золотых браслетов Cartier, сияющая подвеска с бриллиантом Van Cleef & Arpels или восхитительное коктейльное кольцо Boucheron. Но и их, все тем не менее, носят типично парижским способом – спокойно и без излишней демонстративности. И никогда не показывают, что над образом по-настоящему тщательно работали.palaisgalliera.paris.fr, celine.com, ninaricci.com, cartier.com, vancleefarpels.com, boucheron.com
Стивен Дойг рассказывает историю символа Cartier – пантеры, которая вот уже 100 лет украшает самые роскошные произведения ювелирного дома
Сложно вспомнить еще одну икону стиля 20 века, которая привлекла бы к своей персоне столько же внимания, как Уоллис Симпсон. Ее неподражаемый шарм заставил британского короля оставить престол, чтобы жениться на ней – разведенной женщине. Разумеется, она предъявляла серьезные требования к роскошным ювелирным украшениям, и стоит ли удивляться, что объектом ее восхищения стала la panthère de Cartier – пантера Cartier, которая венчает произведения знаменитого парижского ювелира.
Эту страсть разделяли многие, в том числе – Элизабет Тейлор. Но именно Симпсон наверняка останется в истории как самая большая поклонница этого бренда. Она первой приобрела объемную версию пантеры в виде броши в 1948 году. Через год
50: In Focus: The Cartier Panther
в фокусе: Пантера Cartier
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В мае 2014 года весь модный мир наблюдал, как сестра Кары Делевинь Поппи шла под венец в свадебном платье Chanel haute couture. Работу над этим шедевром подвенечного стиля курировал лично Карл Лагерфельд, а исполнение поручили самым квалифицированным швеям. И это стало еще одним напоминанием, что самые великолепные свадебные наряды всегда родом из Франции, а Париж по-прежнему занимает лидирующую позицию в этой сфере.
Считается, что моду на белые подвенечные платья ввела британская королева Виктория, вышедшая замуж в 1840 году. До того момента женщины надевали «лучшее» в свой свадебный день. Но именно парижанки вложили особый смысл в подготовку идеального платья к Самому Главному Дню. К 1950-м годам среди кутюрье установилась традиция оканчивать модные показы свадебным платьем. Это было частью театрализованной постановки и открывало самому дизайнеру возможность торжественно пройти по подиуму, когда зрители поднимались со своих мест и аплодировали. Надеть такое платье на свадьбу - символ высшей роскоши.
Многие женщины из высшего общества отправляются именно в парижские ателье в поисках свадебного гардероба. Разве можно забыть Одри Хепберн в приталенном платье и платке Hubert de Givenchy в 1960-е, или Гвен Стефани в платье Christian Dior, или Кэтрин Зета Джонс в многослойном романтичном творении Christian Lacroix. Совсем недавно к французским кутюрье обращались Энн Хэтэуэй, отдавшая предпочтение Valentino, и модный стилист Каролин Сибер, которая отказалась от белого цвета в пользу светло-серого оттенка в наряде Chanel (это можно воспринимать как отсылку к традициям и ее австрийским корням).
Над проработкой каждой детали свадебного платья по приглашению
То Самое Платье
56: Big-day Dressing последовал второй экземпляр - платиновая дикая кошка на необработанном сапфире. Завершила трилогию брошь с крадущейся пантерой из оникса и бриллианта. Кстати, это украшение вновь оказалось в центре внимания в 2010 году, когда было выставлено на аукционе вместе с другими вещами из ювелирной коллекции Симпсон. Брошь оценили в 5,5 миллионов евро, и одним из потенциальных покупателей называли Мадонну.
Пантера воспринимается как символ бесстрашия, сексуальности и экзотики. В начале 20 века стилизованное изображение животного наносили на кейсы для пудры, холдеры для сигарет и несессеры. Чуть позже – использовали в отделке дамских сумочек. Кроме того, образ появлялся на наручных часах и серьгах, голова животного венчала золотое кольцо с изумрудом.
Первое упоминание этой дикой кошки в разработках Cartier относится в 1914 году (а сам ювелирный дом был открыт 1847 Луи-Франсуа Карье): тогда рисунок из оникса и бриллиантов был украсил фон наручных часов. Наиболее полно раскрыть потенциал этого образа в 1930-е годы сумела Жанна Туссен, возглавлявшая ювелирное направление компании. Инноватор по складу характера, она прославилась в парижском обществе своим необычным подходом и даже получила прозвище Te Panther – «Великолепная пантера».
В 2014 году Cartier выпускает аромат La Panthère. Эта премьера приурочена к столетию пантеры и призвана прославить и дикую кошку, ставшую символом ювелирного дома, и великую женèину, которая в свое время придала модному дому нужный вектор развития.
История элегантной пантеры продолжается, и она по-прежнему украшает самых известных женèин. В мире Cartier появились и другие животные-символы - крокодил, попугай, змея и фламинго. Однако обаяние дикой кошки превзойти просто невозможно, и ее обольстительный шарм уже больше века остается вне всяких сомнений.cartier.com
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крупных модных домов трудятся узкоспециализированные компании и мастера. Так, например, в состав Chanel теперь входит семь таких ателье. В таких салонах профильное ремесло передается по наследству на протяжении десятилетий: например, компания Guillet специализируется на дизайне и вышивке цветов из тканей. Пользуется спросом среди кутюрье и кружево Calais: на показе Valentino в прошлом сезоне это кружево органично сочеталось с шелком и легким тюлем.
Не ограничивая только традициями, дизайнеры стремятся придать платьям современный облик. Например, невесты Lanvin отличаются дерзостью и украшают себя татуировками. Эли Сааб представил платье бледно розового оттенка, а Жамбаттиста Валли предпочел стиль 1960-х и охарактеризовал свое творение как «темпераментное, спонтанное и городское».
Кроме того, теперь дизайнеры создают готовые свадебные коллекции. Серия Lanvin
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Blanche представляет собой разнообразную подборку платьев, а Hervé Léger объединяет и фирменные узкие платья-бандажи, и романтичные силуэты со шлейфами, и традиционные женственные модели. Дельфин Маниве раньше работала на дом высокой моды Rochas: этот опыт помог ей в 2004 году открыть собственный свадебный лейбл и создавать качественные авангардные веèи, которые всегда легко узнать по гофрированным воротникам.
Разумеется, в Париже есть не только платья, но и весь арсенал аксессуаров и предметов для невесты. Модный дом Chanel недавно представил услуги по свадебному мейк-апу, а в Guerlain на Champs-Élysée вы можете сами создать аромат для торжества. Maison Michel – эксперт по изяèным головным уборам, а за нижним бельем, вслед за Наоми Кемпбел и Катрин Денев, отправляйтесь в Sabbia Rosa (73 Rue des Saints-Pères). Эксклюзивные предметы женского туалета из лионского шелка и шантальского кружева можно найти в
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Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте до 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT)
想要掌握浑然天成的法式优雅之道，Clare
Coulson为您指点一二
法国人在诸多领域天赋秉异，包括酿葡萄酒与烹饪，
这座国度同样以创造时髦之极的潮流风尚而闻名，
在这方面其可谓是一直被模仿，从未被超越。
巴黎式着装的概念出现于1950年代，当时这座
城中的高级定制产业引领着全球的时尚潮流。在这
一季，巴黎时装博物馆Palais Galliera以一场名为
The 50s（50年代）的展览，赞颂巴黎在全球服装设
计领域占据的重要地位。在展览中，所有代表法国时
装最高水准的杰作济济一堂，从Christian Dior颠
覆时代、风格高度女性化的“new look”系列作品，
到Yves Saint Laurent对服装的大胆试验。从窄腰
身西服到鸡尾酒裙，展品还包括许多其他指标性品
牌的作品，包括Chanel、Givenchy与Balmain。各
大品牌的设计风格虽千差万别，但不约而同地彰显
出一丝对今日着装仍影响颇深的超然优雅。
我们或许不会再强迫自己塞入那些勒紧胸部的
沙漏型外套里，然而巴黎风格的根基依然未变。其
中有如下规则：首先为衣橱添置以各色精美面料制
成的经典款服饰，包括羊绒大衣、完美剪裁的套装，
以及简单但不乏女人味的真丝衬衣，都以中性色为
主（包括一系列黑色基本款），然后略施技巧将这
些衣服搭配在一起。法国女星的整体造型或许光鲜
动人、艺术气息浓郁，但她们总有办法让其显得浑
然天成。
当所有这些元素聚集在一起——即便是以一种
前卫的方式——在Phoebe Philo为Céline 打造的
秋/冬系列中，囊括了各式各样的时髦选择：为旅途
中女性打造的令人赞叹的茧形大衣，适合白天穿戴
的长绒皮草耳罩与简洁的鸽子灰连衣裙，以及为夜
晚准备的裹裙与华丽绸缎裙。Philo虽然是英国人，
但其为巴黎经典定制款所带来的21世纪风革新，是
完全令人信服的。
Nina Ricci的审美观则与众不同，Peter
Copping打造的秋季系列虽然专注于清新、女性化
的主题，却仍旧展现着巴黎式优雅，一系列丝绸衬衣
与端庄铅笔裙、大气西装、蓬松针织、装饰貂毛的高
美文翻译
42: The Secrets Of Parisian Style
揭秘巴黎风尚
Carine Gilson.Пусть свадебной обувью станут туфли
Christian Louboutin: на фоне белого сатина фирменная красная подошва смотрится как цветочный лепесток на снегу. Обратите также внимание на творения Philippe Atienza в бутике Massaro, а для танцев прекрасно подойдут балетки с тонким кружевом от Repetto.
Что может быть романтичнее?chanel.com, lanvin.com, eliesaab.com,giambattistavalli, herveleger.com,delphinemanivet.com, guerlain.com,carinegilson.com, christianlouboutin.com,massaro.fr
минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую форму Tax Free.
93
诞生于100年前的卡地亚美洲豹图案，装点过不少
令人垂涎的世间珍宝。Stephen Doig为您解读这
段历史
50: In Focus: The Cartier Panther
聚焦：卡地亚之豹
很难想象20世纪还有哪位标志性人物能与Wallis
Simpon同等令人瞩目，这位离异美国女性让英国国
王甘愿为迎娶她而舍弃王位。她对珠宝的独具慧眼
也在意料之中，曾挑选出数件惊世骇俗的华丽珠宝，
而她对出现在巴黎珠宝商卡地亚不少作品中的独特
标志la panthère de Cartier——卡地亚美洲豹的
青睐有加也可谓举世闻名。
虽然包括伊丽莎白泰勒在内的不少人，都为卡地
亚美洲豹的魅力倾倒，但Simpson夫人绝对是个中
翘楚。她在1948年首先购买了一枚立体美洲豹造型
的胸针，又在第二年定制了一颗栖息着铂金美洲豹
的圆球形蓝宝石。在购入一枚以玛瑙和钻石打造的
攀登姿态美洲豹胸针后，Simpson夫人终于将三件
心爱的美洲豹珠宝收入囊中。这枚胸针在2010年再
次成为了聚光灯的焦点，它与其他Simpson夫人的
珠宝一同被拍卖，并拍出了550万欧元的高价，据传
闻买家有可能是歌星麦当娜。
对许多人而言，美洲豹拥有无畏、性感、异国情
调等多重象征，豹的造型从20世纪早期起，出现于
粉饼盒、烟嘴与化妆箱之上，后更被用以装饰手袋。
它也同时灵动跃身于腕表上，优雅垂悬于耳环底部，
或是以头部造型化身黄金嵌绿宝石戒指。
豹的形象在1914年首次出现在卡地亚的设计
中，这间由Louis-François Cartier成立于1847的
珠宝店，在一款腕表上使用黑色玛瑙与钻石排列出
豹的图案。然而仰仗卡地亚著名的高级珠宝主管
Jeanne Toussaint的创意与匠心，才使这一设计在
1930年大放异彩。她的开拓性思维在巴黎上流社
会广受认可，也因此被人们称为The Panther（美
洲豹）。
2014年卡地亚La Panthère香氛系列的推出，
标志着美洲豹的百年诞辰，同时也褒扬这一与卡地
亚品牌密不可分的动物形象，以及推动品牌前行的
女性拥戴者们。
卡地亚优雅的美洲豹徐徐走过历史，装点着全
球众多声名显赫的女性。即便品牌旗下的动物形象
不断丰富（其开始采用鳄鱼、鹦鹉、蛇与火烈鸟等象
征），美洲豹无疑是其中最迷人、最具诱惑力的。
cartier.com
穿上来自世界浪漫之都的婚纱艳惊四座吧，Frances
Wasem建议
当Cara Delevingne的姐姐Poppy在2014年5月的
婚礼上以一袭Chanel高级定制婚纱亮相时，世界为
这件法国高级定制婚纱的惊艳程度唏嘘。这件婚纱
是在Karl Lagerfeld的监督下，由一群手艺最精湛
56: Big-day Dressing
婚纱进行曲
跟鞋与简约手拿包。相比同辈设计师，Copping采
用一种更为调皮、年轻化的演绎手法，但其仍在巴黎
式优雅的丰富蕴含中占有一席之地。
自然，有些装饰是不会过时且足够时髦加入搭配
中的——珠宝就是法国女性点缀自己的手段，可以
是叠带的卡地亚金手环，梵克雅宝的炫目闪光钻石
吊坠，或是宝诗龙炫目的鸡尾酒戒指。然而这些单
品仍被以典型巴黎式风格佩戴——低调、不虚张声
势。记住永远不要让自己看起来用力过度。
palaisgalliera.paris.fr, celine.com, ninaricci.com,
cartier.com, vancleefarpels.com,
boucheron.com
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的巴黎裁缝所打造的，它也再次确立了巴黎高级定
制在婚纱界的影响力。
身着白色婚纱的传统或许是始于一位英国君
主，维多利亚女王，在1840年的婚礼——在这之
前，大多数妇女只是穿上自己“最好”的裙子参加婚
礼——然而是巴黎人将这种一生只此一次的童话式
梦幻延续发扬。
在1950年代，大多数高级定制设计师的发布会
都以一袭婚纱压轴。这纯粹是为了戏剧效果，并可
让设计师骄傲地挽着模特的手，走出来接受观众的
起身致意与欢呼。一件高级定制婚纱成为奢华的终
极代表。
自那时起，许多上层女性开始向巴黎的时装工作
室订制顶级婚礼服饰。谁能忘却在1960年代穿戴
Hubert de Givenchy直筒连衣裙与头巾的Audrey
Hepburn，身着Christian Dior的Gwen Stefani，
或是被Christian Lacroix包裹于层层浪漫之中的
Catherine Zeta Jones。近年来法国订制婚纱的拥
趸，包括身着Valentino的Anne Hathaway，以及身
穿Chanel的造型师Caroline Sieber，她弃用白色而
使用传统淡灰色，来向自己的奥地利血统致敬。
这些大型时装屋雇用各有所长的供应商与工匠
来制作许多服饰上的精巧细节，Chanel旗下如今拥
有7间诸如此类的手工坊。积累几十年的工艺在法国
顶尖工作坊中得以传承，譬如刺绣公司Guillet，就
专注于制作装饰花朵。
Calais花边是另一种炙手可热的传统工艺，在
Valentino上一季的秀场上，模特们就是身着绣着这
种花边的丝绸与薄纱走上T型台。
对于所有这些传统，设计师在作品中赋予
他们当代的解读。从Lanvin的缤纷多彩的纹身
图案婚纱，Elie Saab的淡粉色婚纱礼服，到被
Giambattista Valli形容为“气质超凡、自然流露与
都市化” 的1960灵感系列。
顶尖设计师们如今纷纷为新娘们特别的日子
打造出成衣系列。Lanvin的Blanche系列有着选择
宽泛的婚纱礼服，Hervé Léger则带来将品牌最具
标志性的绷带设计与鱼尾及传统婚纱元素结合的
作品。曾在高级定制公司Rochas工作的Delphine
Manivet，在2004年推出了自己的婚纱系列，创造
出拥有惊人美妙质感的竖衣领礼服。
毫无疑问，巴黎可以为您提供所需的各种其他物
品。Chanel刚推出了婚礼化妆服务，您还可在香榭
丽舍大街上的Guerlain店铺定制属于自己的婚礼香
氛。Maison Michel为您提供最精致的头饰，至于
内衣，则不妨跟随Naomi Campbell与Catherine
Deneuve的步伐，径直前往Sabbia Rosa（Saints-
Pères街73号），或去Carine Gilson寻觅里昂丝绸
与Chantilly蕾丝的踪影。Christian Louboutin为
您奉上婚礼高跟鞋：白色缎子与招牌红鞋底的组合，
86: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，
环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global
Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程：
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格
（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小
票。
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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联
的退税点领取您的退税款。
联系方式：
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€175.01并且节约高达购买价格12%的税。
请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除
管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收
取现金退税手续费。
就像是散落在雪地上的花瓣，设计师同时也可为您
的大日子定做任意颜色的鞋底。其他鞋履选择还包
括来自Massaro的Philippe Atienza的作品，如果
想为夜间起舞寻觅舒适鞋款，拥有完美镂空工艺的
Repetto蕾丝芭蕾平底鞋是最佳选择。
蜜月旅行地的选择自然也同等重要，所以不妨考
虑下榻The Ritz或是Hôtel Plaza Athénée。还有
比这更浪漫的吗？
chanel.com, lanvin.com, eliesaab.com,
giambattistavalli, herveleger.com,
delphinemanivet.com, guerlain.com,
carinegilson.com, christianlouboutin.com,
massaro.fr
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日本語翻訳
42: The Secrets Of Parisian Style
パリジェンヌスタイルの秘密
フランス人固有のエレガンスの技をクレア・コール
ソンのこのガイドでマスターしよう。
ワイン作りや料理など多くの分野で優れていると
言えるフランス人は、この上なくシックなスタイル
を完成したことでも知られる。そのスタイルはよく
真似されるが、本当の意味でそれに匹敵すると言
えるものはない。
パリ人の装いの理想は、この街のオートクチ
ュールが世界のファッショントレンドをリードした
1950年代によく表れている。今シーズン、パリの服
飾美術館パレ・ガリエラで、世界の服飾デザイン
におけるパリの役割を振り返る展覧会「ザ・フィフ
ティーズ」が開催される。とても女らしく画期的な
クリスチャン・ディオールの「ニュールック」からイ
ヴ・サンローランの登場まで、シックなフランスの
装いの最高のお手本が一堂に集められ、ワスプウ
エストスーツやカクテルドレスなどの展示品の中に
は、シャネルやジバンシー、バルマンといった他の
スタイルリーダーの作品もある。各レーベルのデ
ザインはスタイルこそ大きく異なるが、それぞれが
この上ないエレガンスを体現したもので、今でも私
たちの服装に影響を与え続けている。
コルセットできつく締めた砂時計形のジャケ
ットに袖を通そうとはもはや思わないかもしれな
いが、パリジェンヌスタイルの基本的な要素は今
も変わらない。原則はこうだ。カシミアコートやカ
ットの美しいセパレーツ、女らしくもシンプルな絹
のブラウスなど、中間色を中心とした（基本的な黒
を含めた）美しい素材の流行り廃りの無いアイテ
ムでワードローブを構成し、それらを軽やかなタッ
チで合わせる。洗練された巧妙なルックスだが、
フランス人女性にかかるといとも簡単に見える。
これらの要素が（アヴァンギャルドなやり方
ながら）合わさったのが、フィービー・フィロがデザ
インしたセリーヌの秋冬コレクションだ。このコレ
クションは、活動的な女性のための見事なコクー
ンコートや豪華な毛皮のマフ、日中に着るさっぱり
したダブグレイのドレス、夜用にはラップドレスや
高級感あるサテン地のスカートと、シックな装い
が続々。フィロは英国人だが、パリクチュールの古
典的なラインを21世紀風にアップデートしたこの
コレクションは、まさしくパリジェンヌスタイルだ。
軽やかな女らしさを追求するニナ・リッチの
美学は全く異なるが、ピーター・コッピングによる
秋物コレクションでもシルクブラウスと大人しいペ
ンシルスカート、貴婦人風のスーツ、ふわりとした
ニット、ミンクトリム付きのパンプス、きちっとした
小型のクラッチバッグなど、パリ人のエレガンスが
見られた。コッピングは、同年代のデザイナーの多
くに比べて茶目っ気のある若 し々いアプローチを
とっているが、それでも、パリ人の優雅さを醸し出
す要素を存分に取り入れている。
もちろん、シックで時代を超えた魅力を持っ
た装飾品もある程度加えている。ジュエリーはフ
ランス人女性がカルティエの金のバングル、ヴァン
クリーフ＆アーペルの煌めくダイアモンドのペンダ
ント、ブシュロンの素敵なカクテルリングなど一定
の飾り気を良しとする分野なのだ。ただし、それら
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50: In Focus: The Cartier Panther
注目のアイテム：カルティエ・パンテール
カルティエが100年前に生み出したパンサーのモ
チーフは、垂涎のジュエリーの数 を々飾ってきた。
スティーヴン・ドイグがその歴史を振り返る。
ウォリス・シンプソンほど耳目を集めた20世紀の
スタイルアイコンは、他になかなか思い着かない。
離婚歴のあるアメリカ人女性で、英国王が彼女と
結婚するために王位を投げ打ったほどの魅力の持
ち主だ。そんな彼女は当然のことながら目利きで、
いくつかの素晴らしく贅沢なジュエリーを選り抜
き、ラ・パンテール・ドゥ・カルティエのファンとして
知られる。カルティエ・パンテールは、パリを本拠
とするこの宝飾店が様々なアイテムに使っている
シンボルだ。
エリザベス・テイラーなど他にもカルティエ・パ
ンテールの魅力にハマった有名人はいたが、最も
熱烈な愛好家として記録に残るのはおそらくシン
プソン夫人だろう。彼女が最初に買ったのは立体
的なパンサーが上に座ったブローチ。1948年のこ
とだ。さらにその翌年には、カボションカットのサ
ファイアの上にプラチナのパンサーが乗った二つ
目のカルティエ・パンテールを注文する。そして、
彼女の三大お気に入りの最後の一つは、オニキス
とダイアモンドの木登りするパンサーのブローチ
だ。このブローチはシンプソン夫人のジュエリー
コレクションがオークションに出された2010年に
再び話題に上った。噂では、落札価格は550万ユ
ーロで、マドンナが買った可能性があるとされてい
る。
このパンサーは多くの人にとって猛々しさ、
官能性、エキゾチシズムの表象であり、20世紀初
頭には白粉箱や煙草入れ、バニティケースに使わ
れ、後にはハンドバッグにも登場した。その他に
も、時計の上を駆けたりイアリングから優雅にぶ
ら下がるパンサーが見られ、頭はゴールドとエメラ
ルドの指輪になっている。
この野生ネコ科の動物がカルティエのデザイ
ンに初めて取り入れられたのは1914年。ルイ・フラ
ンソワ・カルティエが1847年に創立したこの宝飾
店が、時計の文字盤にブラックオニキスとダイアモ
ンドでパンサーのモチーフをあしらったのが始ま
56: Big-day Dressing
ハレの日の装い
世界的なロマンスの都でデザインされたウェディ
ングドレスで、極めつけの自分らしさを演出しよ
う。フランシス・ワセムが提案する。
2014年5月、カーラ・デルヴィーニュの姉のポピー
がシャネル・オートクチュールのウェディングドレス
で結婚式を挙げたが、その姿は、フランスで誂え
たウェディングドレスの素晴らしさを改めて世界に
知らしめた。パリでカール・ラガーフェルドの監督
の下に熟練裁縫士が丹念に縫い上げたこのドレス
は、ウェディング界でパリのクチュリエがいかに大
きな力を持っているかの証だ。
白いブライダルドレスがトレンドになるきっか
けを作ったのは、1840年に結婚した英国君主のヴ
ィクトリア女王だったかもしれないが（それまでは
「一張羅」を着るのが普通だった）、一生に一度
のおとぎ話のお姫様のようなドレスを着たいとい
う願いを先頭に立って実現したのはパリジャンだ
った。
1950年代にはクチュールデザイナーの多くが
ファッションショーをウェディングドレスで締めく
くるようになった。それはまさに劇場パフォーマン
スさながらで、誇らしげにランウェイに現れたデザ
イナーに観客たちは立ち上がって賞賛の嵐を浴び
せ、デザイナー仕立てのドレスは究極の贅の象徴
になった。
以来、多くの有名女性が極めつけのウェディン
グ衣装をパリのアトリエに注文している。1960年
りだ。しかし、1930年代にパンサーのポテンシャ
ルを解き放ったのは、カルティエの高級ジュエリ
ー部門のダイレクターで創造性あふれる革新者と
して有名なジャンヌ・トゥーサンだ。パリの社交界
で進取性を評価されたトゥーサンは、「ザ・パンサ
ー」の名で知られるようになる。
2014年にパンサーの誕生100周年を記念して
香水「ラ・パンテール」を発売したのは、カルティ
エとは切っても切り離せない存在のパンサーと、
ブランドの躍進に貢献したトゥーサンの双方に敬
意を払ってのこと。
カルティエのエレガントなパンサーは最近も
歩みは確かで、世界一流の有名女性を飾ってい
る。同ブランドでは様々な動物のモチーフを採用
している（クロコダイル、オウム、ヘビ、フラミンゴ
などもシンボルになっている）が、最も魅力あるの
はやはりパンサーだ。
cartier.com
のジュエリーもあくまでパリ風にさらりと付け、大
仰さがない。そして、決して一生懸命努力している
ように見えないのが味噌だ。
palaisgalliera.paris.fr, celine.com, ninaricci.com,
cartier.com, vancleefarpels.com, boucheron.com
97
代のユベール・ド・ジバンシーのシフトドレスとヘッ
ドスカーフで挙式したオードリー・ヘップバーン、
クリスチャン・ディオールをまとったグウェン・ステ
ファニー、クリスチャン・ラクロワのおかげでロマン
スに包まれたキャサリン・ゼダ・ジョーンズの花嫁
姿を、誰が忘れられるだろうか。最近フレンチクチ
ュールを採用した花嫁には、ヴァレンティノを着た
アン・ハサウェイ、オーストリア人の血をひくことか
ら白でなく伝統的スタイルの淡いグレーのシャネ
ルを着たキャロライン・シーバーなどだ。
これらの大手ファッションハウスでは、専門
企業や職人の力を集約して多くのドレスにみられ
るような複雑なディテールを実現している。シャネ
ルでは現在、そうしたアトリエを7軒所有している。
フランスの一流のアトリエでは、数十年にわたっ
て磨き上げられた技能が今も健在する。その一つ
が刺繍専門企業のギエで、布製の花をお得意とす
る。
人気の高いもう一つの細工がカレーレース
で、昨シーズンのヴァレンティノのショーでは、シ
ルクや軽いチュールの地にこのレースを施したド
レスをまとったモデルたちがランウェイを歩いた。
こうした伝統技を使う反面、デザイナーたち
はドレスに現代的な感覚も取り入れている。ラン
バンでは奔放な花嫁がタトゥーを見せびらかし、
エリー・サーブのウェディングドレスは淡いピンク
色。ジャンバティスタ・ヴァリは、1960年代にイン
スピレーションを得たドレスを「気まぐれで自然発
生的で都会的」と表現している。
一方、大物デザイナーたちは現在、ハレの日が
近づいている花嫁のために既成ドレスのコレクシ
ョンも作っている。ランバンの「コレクション・ブラ
ンシュ」は幅広いスタイルのドレスを取り揃え、エ
ルヴェ・レジェのセレクションには、同ブランドの
代表的なバンデージドレスやフィッシュテールドレ
ス、伝統的な女らしいデザインなどがある。オート
クチュールブランドのロシャで勤めた後2004年に
自己のブランドを立ち上げたデルフィーヌ・マニヴ
ェは、ひだ襟が特徴の素晴らしく気ままな雰囲気
の作品を創っている。
もちろん、パリでは結婚式に必要なありとあ
らゆるものが揃う。シャネルではこのほどウェディ
ング・メイクアップサービスを開始し、シャンゼリ
ゼ通りのゲランでは自分だけのウェディング用香
水を作ってくれる。繊細な髪飾りはメゾン・ミシェ
ル、下着はナオミ・キャンベルやカトリーヌ・ドヌー
ヴに倣ってサン・ペレ通り73番地のサビア・ロー
ザへ行くといい。リヨン産シルクやシャンティリ・レ
ースの極上品が欲しい向きには、カリーヌ・ジルソ
ンがある。ウェディング用の靴ならクリスチャン・ル
86: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が免税に
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利
用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に
ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に
なります。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー
の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。
手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し
ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・
ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを
踏むだけです。
1. お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免
税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ
さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。
2. 還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認
印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付
事務所で払い戻しを受けます。
€175.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高
12％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し
額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を
差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ
い。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望
の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され
ます。
ブタンはいかがだろう。白サテンにルブタンの特
徴である赤い靴底が映えて、雪の上の花びらのよ
う。ルブタンは、結婚式用に好みの色の靴底を誂
えてくれることで知られる。その他にも、フィリッ
プ・アティエンザがデザインするマサロの靴や、夜
のダンス用には、レペットから出ている完璧なクロ
シェット編みのバレエ・フラットシューズがある。
これこそロマンチックの極みでは？
chanel.com, lanvin.com, eliesaab.com,
giambattistavalli,
herveleger.com,
delphinemanivet.com,
guerlain.com,
carinegilson.com,
christianlouboutin.com,
massaro.fr
98 | PRODUCTS
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Souvenir
WINTER CHEER AT KENZO
Paris is known for its illustrious fashion history
and high-powered haute couture so it’s good
to see that, despite such seriousness, some of
the city’s designers haven’t lost their sense of
fun – including those at Kenzo. Founded by
Kenzo Takada in 1970 as a boutique in which
he sold his handmade womenswear, the brand
opened its fagship place des Victoires store
in 1976 and, by 1983, it had produced its frst
menswear collection, with childrenswear and
homeware following in 1987. Now part of the
LVMH group, the brand appointed Carol
Lim and Humberto Leon, the founders of the
famous Opening Ceremony stores, as creative
directors in 2011 and Kenzo’s collections have
gone from strength to strength. The Kalifornia
bag from the autumn/winter 2014/15 range
is a fun and cheerful antidote to winter’s
typically dark accessories. Its furry trim keeps
it seasonally appropriate, the clutch style is on
trend and, most importantly, it will make you
smile every time you look at it. irs
Kenzo Kalifornia bag, €595,
Kenzo, 3 place des Victoires, 75001 Paris,
+33 (0)1 4039 7203,
kenzo.com
12, boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9e | bucherer.com
THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES
