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INTERWEAVE PRESS LLCNot to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

THEartOF SEWINGACCESSORIES:

FREE Purse Sewing Patterns, Bag Sewing

Patterns + Scarf Sewing Patterns.

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1 2

3 4

Silk + Pearls

Clutch

Waterfall

Scarf

Mosaic

Silk Scarf

Sashiko

Saddle Bag

1

2

3

4

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THE artOF SEWING ACCESSORIES:FREE Purse Sewing Patterns, Bag SewingPatterns + Scarf Sewing Patterns.

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THE PERFECT OUTFIT needs the perect accessory, and what

could be better than sewing those accessories yoursel to

customize them to your outfit? Sewing accessories is easy and

quick, making them the perect small project to sew in an

afernoon and wear out that night. They are also a great way

to practice embellishment and handsewing techniques. And

they make great gifs!

We have collected some o our avorite handbag sewing

patterns and scar patterns to get your creativity flowing.

These ree purse sewing patterns and scar patterns each have

a little twist to them to make them interesting to sew and

stylish to wear. You probably already know how to sew a scar,

but making that scar unique with machine embroidery and

abric manipulation takes it above your basic scar. And add-

ing sashiko stitching, patchwork, abric flowers, or beading

takes sewing purses to a whole new level.

Silk + Pearls Clutch:This luxurious silk clutch eatures

elegant abric flower embellishment with reshwater pearl ac-

cents, making this one o our avorite purse sewing patterns.

1 Silk + Pearls Clutch...................................... 3

2Waterfall Scarf............................................... 6

3Mosaic Silk Scarf ..........................................8

4Sashiko Saddle Bag.................................. 10

EDITORTricia WaddellART DIRECTORPamela Norman

ILLUSTRATION Ann Sabin SwansonPHOTOGRAPHYJoe Hancock

(unless otherwise noted)

PROJECT DESIGNERS

Marlene Blessing , Katrina Loving,Tricia Waddell

Projects and inormation are or inspiration

and personal use only. Sew Dailyand Stitch

magazine are not responsible or any liability

arising rom errors, omissions, or mistakes

contained in this eBook, and readers should

proceed cautiously, especially with respect

to technical inormation. Interweave grants

permission to photocopy any patterns pub-

lished in this issue or personal use only.

sewdaily

Find STITCH magazine, andsewing epatternsandbooks in our online store

www.interweavestore.com

Contemporary sewingthat celebrates the

handmadelifestyle!

Waterfall Scarf: A silk douppioni scar gets a creative

twist with shirred and ruffled edges allowing you to sculpt

the ends in unique ways.

Mosaic Silk Scarf:Play with abric and metallic thread

in this scar eaturing silk abric squares and ringe.

Sashiko Saddlebag:Get creative with Japanese hand-

stitching (sashiko) and Asian print accents in this double-

pouch flannel bag.

Youll love making these scar and bag sewing patterns

and have un customizing them in your own unique way.

So pull out some abric and get started sewing accessories

today!

Happy Sewing,

tricia waddell

Editor in chie, Stitchmagazine


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byKATRINA LOVING

What better way to add a

luxurious touch to your outfitthan to carry this luscious silkclutch, complete with fresh-water pearl accents? It featuresdual interior zippered pocketsthat are roomy enough to carrythe essentials.

FABRICFabrics should be at least 45" (114.5 cm) wide.

1 yd (91.5 cm) silk douppioni or sueded, raw,or other medium-weight silk fabric for shell(Main; shown:deep red pintucked douppioni)

yd (46 cm) satin or similar fabric for lining

(Contrast; shown:cream diamond-patternedsatin)

OTHER SUPPLIES78yd (80 cm) of 20" (51 cm) wide craft-

weight fusible interfacing

yd (68.5 cm) of 20" (51 cm) wide ultra-firm fusible stabilizer

Scrap of medium-weight fusible interfacingfor snap installation (optional; at least4" x 2" [10 x 5 cm])

" (2 cm) magnetic snap

Matching and contrasting sewing threadfor Main fabric (shown:red and blue) andmatching sewing thread for Contrast fabric(shown:cream)

Nine 6.58mm freshwater top-drilledteardrop pearls or other beads in contrast-ing color (shown: midnight blue freshwaterpearls)

Two 12" (30.5 cm) zippers (shown: black)

Fabric pen or tailors chalk

Sewing machine needle appropriatefor medium-weight fabrics

Sewing machine needle appropriatefor heavyweight fabrics

Handsewing needle

Fabric pen or tailors chalk

Thimble (optional)

Sharp, sturdy beading needle thin enoughto pass through chosen beads

Zipper foot for sewing machineBlind hem foot for sewing machine

(optional; see Notes)

Point turner or similar tool (such as a largeknitting needle)

Press cloth

Flat-nose pliers (for installing the snap)

FINISHED SIZE12" wide x 7" high (30.5 x 18 cm)when closed

NOTESAll seam allowances are " (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise noted.For explanations of terms and techniques,

see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com/sewingbasics.

The rosettes are left raw and will frayslightly. If you prefer a cleaner look, cutthe rectangles slightly larger in Step 1 toinclude a small hemming allowance. Therosettes shown were cut along the selvedgeto create one naturally finished edge, whilethe remaining edges were left raw.

It is helpful to use the blind hem foot whenedgestitching. The foot makes it easy tosew an even, straight edgestitch by runningthe built-in guide along the edge of the fab-ric. Consult your sewing machine manualfor further information on using the blind

hem foot and make sure you are using aregular straight stitch and have adjusted theneedle position to fall to the left of the guideand into the edge of the fabric.

Use a press cloth when pressing the silkand use the appropriate iron setting.

CUT THE FABRIC1From the Main fabric, cut:

One 31" long x 13" wide (79.5 x 33 cm)rectangle for bag body

One 2" long x 13" wide (5 x 33 cm)rectangle for zipper connector

Four 2" x 1" (5 x 3.8 cm) squaresfor zipper tabs

For the rosettes, where uniformity and exactmeasurements are not essential, cut the fol-lowing pieces freehand:

One 14" x 11" (35.5 x 2.53.2 cm)rectangle

One 10" x 1" (26.5 x 22.5 cm) rectangle



2From the Contrast fabric, cut:

One 29" x 12" (73.5 x 32 cm) rectangle forthe lining

One 9" long x 5" wide (24 x 14.5 cm)rectangle for phone pocket

One 7" long x 3" wide (18 x 9 cm) rectangle

for credit card pocket3Cut one 29" x 12" (74.5 x 30.5 cm) rectanglefrom the craft-weight interfacing.

4Cut two 7" x 1178" (18 x 30.2 cm) rectanglesfrom the ultra-firm stabilizer.

FOR EXPLANATIONS OF

TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED

CLICK HERE FOR OUR

SEWING BASICS ONLINE

silk + pearlsclutch
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PREPARE THE SHELL+ INSTALL THE SNAP5Center the interfacing rectangle, adhesiveside down, on the wrong side of the bag body

rectangle. Center the interfacing accurately,leaving 1" (2.5 cm) margins at each end and" (1.3 cm) margins on each long side of theMain fabric. Fuse, following the manufactur-ers instructions, ensuring that the interfacingis evenly and securely fused.

6With the interfaced bag body right sideup, find the center of one short edge, thenmeasure up from the center point 6" (15 cm)and mark with a fabric pen or tailors chalk.Repeat on the opposite end.

7Install one half of the magnetic snap at eachmark, following the manufacturers instructions.Optional: Cut the scrap of medium-weight inter-facing into two 2" x 2" (5 x 5 cm) squares. Placeone of the squares adhesive side down over thewrong side of the snap (covering the prongs)and fuse in place, following the manufacturersinstructions and using the tip of your iron to sealthe interfacing around the snap; dont iron thesnap directly. This will keep the prongs fromrubbing directly against and possibly snaggingthe lining fabric. Repeat the entire step to installthe other half of the snap at the mark on theopposite end.

EMBELLISH THE SHELLComplete Steps 810 with each rosetterectangle.

8Using the contrasting sewing thread,edgestitch along each raw edge; if you prefer acleaner look, fold the raw edges under beforeedgestitching or complete a narrow(18" [3 mm]) rolled hem. Leaving at least "

(6 mm) of space along one long edge free ofstitching (between the edgestitching and thenext parallel line of stitching; this will becomethe inner edge of the rosette), embellishthe rectangles with a more lines of stitchingparallel to the long edges. The " (6 mm)space left free of stitching will be used for thegathering stitches.

9Set the machine for a gathering stitch(4.0 mm long) and sew along the stripslength within the " (6 mm) space left freeof stitching.

0Gather one of the basted rectangles tightlyby pulling gently on the bobbin thread only,sliding the fabric along the thread with yourfingers and distributing the gathers evenly.Knot off the thread tails at one end. Bring thetwo short ends of the rectangle together andoverlap them to create a circle. Adjust thegathers for a pleasing result and then pin theshort edges together. Whipstitch the shortends together by hand, or use a machinestitch to topstitch around the rosette, alongthe ends and across the central gathers,securing the edges and the gathers in place.Position the machine stitches slightly closerto the outer edge to avoid the thickest areasnear the center. Go slowly and adjust therosette often, because you will be sewing ina tight circle. Repeat the entire step to formrosettes from the remaining rectangles,

figure 1

7"(19 cm)

1"(4.5 cm)

stacking the largest rectangle and one of theothers (shown: the 10" x 1" [26.5 x 22.5cm] rectangle) to make the largest blossom.

-With the right side of the bag body facingup, measure up 7" (19 cm) from one shortedge and draw a line parallel to the short endwith a fabric pen or tailors chalk (make surethe marks are removable by testing first on ascrap). Measure 1" (4.5 cm) from the longedge on the right, and draw a line parallel tothe long edge (figure 1). You will be attachingthe rosettes in this general area, making surethat the edges of the rosettes are no closer to

the edges than the lines just drawn. Using ahandsewing needle and matching thread, sewthe rosettes in a group within the marked area,which will become the bottom front corner ofthe bag. Take small stitches through the centerof the rosettes, stitching through all layers tosecure them to the bag body. A thimble willassist in pushing the needle through the thickinterfacing. Remember to sew a smaller rosetteon top of the largest one for a double-layerflower, as shown in the sample.

=Using the beading needle and matchingthread, sew the pearls or beads in the centersof the rosettes, grouping the pearls as desired


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figure 2

(the sample shows groupings of 5, 3, and 1).Knot the thread securely so that the beads willstay put; for greatest security, knot the threadon the project wrong side before and aftereach bead, so if one bead is lost the others arestill held fast.

SET IN THE ZIPPERSNote:Measure each zipper to ensure that theyare 13" (33 cm) long from raw end to raw end.They will most likely be slightly longer; if thisis the case, trim equally from each end of thezipper tapes.

qFold each of the zipper tabs in half length-wise, with wrong sides together, yielding a1" x 1" (2.5 x 3.8 cm) piece, and press flat.Place one zipper tab, centered, on top of eachend of one zipper, aligning the raw edges ofthe tab with the edge of the zipper tape. Bastethe tabs in place, " (6 mm) from the edge ofthe zipper tab. Repeat to baste the remainingtabs on the other zipper.

wFold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side on each

short edge of the shell and press. Pin oneshort end of the shell on top of one of thezipper tapes, right sides up, placing the foldedshell edge 18" (3 mm) from the zipper teeth.Using the zipper foot (refer to your sewingmachine manual for information on using thisfoot), edgestitch the shell to the zipper. Startwith the zipper unzipped 23" (57.5 cm), thenwhen you are close to the zipper pull, leavethe needle down and lift the presser foot sothat you can pull the zipper closed to keep thezipper pull out of the way. Lower the presserfoot and continue sewing. Repeat the entirestep to attach the remaining zipper to theopposite short edge. To match the sample,

reverse the direction in which you attach thesecond zipper so that the zippers open in op-posite directions.

eRoll the shell fabric up and over the zip-

per teeth to create a doubled3

8" (1 cm) fold,bringing the interfacing into the crease ofthe new fold, which will just cover the zipperteeth. Pin in place, with the new fold lying overthe zipper teeth. With the zipper foot, topstitch38" (1 cm) from the new fold, along the entirezipper tape. The new stitches lie directly overthe previous stitch line, now hidden under-neath the fold, creating a small flap that will

just cover the zipper teeth (figure 2). Repeatto create a flap over the other zipper.

ASSEMBLE THE SHELLrWith the shell right side up, find the exactcenter of the long edges and then mark 18"(3 mm) to the right and left of the center onboth long edges. Fold each short edge, with

its zipper, toward the center, right sidestogether, so that each zipper meets the clos-est mark, leaving a " (6 mm) gap betweenthe zipper tapes. Pin and then sew the longedges together. Keep the seam allowancesas accurate as possible, sewing slowly andcarefully over the zipper teeth. Clip thecorners and trim the seam allowances to "(6 mm). Turn the two pouches right side out;the interfaced fabric will be stiff, so use apoint turner to gently push out the cornersand smooth the edges.

tInsert one of the ultra-firm stabilizerrectangles into each pouch, with the ad-hesive side facing the outer surface of thebag (the side without the zippers). You mayneed to trim the stabilizer slightly to fit intothe pouches; the fit should be snug withoutcausing the bag to pucker. To test the fit,insert the stabilizer and then press downwith your hands around all the edges. If thestabilizer settles flat into place with pres-sure, the fit is good. If the stabilizer rolls abit at the edges, remove it and trim its edgesslightly, then test again. Flip the shell overso that the outer (embellished) side is facingup and, using a press cloth over the silk andfollowing the manufacturers instructions,fuse the stabilizer in place from the outsideof the bag, making sure it is securely fusedat the top (near the zipper placement). Workaround the rosettes as closely as you can,but do not apply the iron directly over therosettes. Be careful to fuse evenly to avoidbubbles in the fabric.

yOnce the stabilizer is in place, install alarger sewing machine needle and edgestitcheach long edge of the bag, through all layers,from the topstitching of the zipper flap to theouter, folded edge, leaving the area betweenthe zipper flaps free of stitching.

ASSEMBLE THE LININGuFold the 9" x 5" (24 x 14.5 cm) phonepocket piece in half widthwise, right sidestogether, so that you have a 4" x 5" (12 x14.5 cm) piece. Pin and sew the three openedges, leaving a 2" (5 cm) gap in one side.Trim the corners and turn the pocket right

side out and press, pressing the seam allow-ances to the wrong side along the gap.

iFold the lining rectangle in half, width-wise, to find the center and crease lightly.

Unfold, then fold in half lengthwise andcrease lightly. Open the rectangle, right sideup, and measure 2" (7 cm) from the cross-wise crease along one lengthwise creaseand mark. Center the phone pocket side toside, with its folded edge just covering themark. Pin the pocket to the lining, then edg-estitch around the sides and bottom to closethe gap and secure the pocket to the lining,leaving the top edge free.

oFold the 7"x 3" (18 x 9 cm) credit cardpocket in half widthwise, with right sidestogether, so that you have a 3" x 3"(9 x 9 cm) piece. Complete the pocket asin Step 19. Measure and mark the pocketplacement 2" (5 cm) below the center on theend of the lining opposite the phone pocket,

as before. The pockets open edges faceeach other. Return to the crosswise centermarkings on the lining; measure 18" (3 mm)to each side of the center and mark alongthe long edges.

pFold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side oneach short edge of the lining and press. Foldeach short edge toward the center, rightsides together, so that each edge meets theclosest mark, as in Step 16. There will be a" (6 mm) gap between the linings foldededges. Pin and then sew the side edgestogether, catching the " (1.3 cm) fold-oversin the seam. Trim the seam allowances to" (6 mm) and finish the edges with a zigzagstitch or serger.

FINISH THE CLUTCH[With the lining still inside out, insert thelining pouches into the shell pouches, push-ing the lining pouches into place through thecentral gap between the zippers.

]Slip-stitch the folded-over edge of eachpouch lining to the zipper tape to which theshell fabric is sewn, positioning the pressedfold just over the stitching on the zippertape.

\Fold " (1.3 cm) to the wrong side alongboth short edges of the zipper connectorand press. Repeat to press the long edges,creating a 1" x 12" (2.5 x 30.5 cm) rectangle.Pin the prepared rectangle on top of thezipper tapes on the inside of the clutch, rightside up, covering the exposed " (6 mm) of

lining and the edges of the free zipper tapes.The pressed edges of the connector shouldfall beside the zipper teeth. Using the zipperfoot, topstitch along each long edge of therectangle, " (6 mm) from the pressed edge.Finish by slip-stitching the short edges tothe clutch. The zippers will be mostly hiddenbut should zip and unzip easily.

KATRINA LOVINGis the projects editor for

Stitchand a book editor for Interweave. She

lives in Colorado with her husband, two dogs,

and lots of fabric.


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FABRIC1 yd (91.5 cm) douppioni silk

OTHER SUPPLIESMatching high-quality polyester or silk

thread

Fabric pencil or tailors chalk

Silk needle for sewing machine (consultyour manual)

Handsewing needle

FINISHED SIZEAbout 66" (168 cm) long x 17" (43 cm) wide(at center)

FOR EXPLANATIONS OF


CLICK HERE FOR OUR


byTRICIA WADDELL

Douppioni silk gets a creativetexture treatment in this simplescarf featuring shirred andruffled edges. The shirring ismade by gathering the scarfboth vertically and horizon-tally, allowing you to sculpt theends in unique ways.

NOTESFor explanations of terms and techniques,


A subtly contrasting color of thread can beused instead of a matching thread to accen-tuate the shirring on the ends of the scarf.

waterfallscarf


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CUT FABRIC + FINISH SEAMS1Cut two pieces of douppioni silk, each 36"(91.5 cm) long x 18" (45.5 cm) wide.

2Attach the two fabric pieces along the shortend with a slight variation on a traditionallapped seam, according to the followinginstructions. Fold over the short edge of onepiece " (2 cm) toward the wrong side; foldover the short edge of the second piece " (2cm) toward the right side. Overlap the foldededges as shown in figure 1, so that the rightsides of both pieces are facing up (the rawedges will be hidden); pin the pieces together.On each side of the scarf, edgestitch alongthe clean folded edge to attach the piecestogether (figure 2). Press flat.

3Now that you have the finished scarf length,its time to finish the outside border of thescarf. Fold over " (6 mm) on one long sideand press, then fold over another " (6 mm)

and press. Edgestitch the hem. Repeat theentire step on the remaining long edge and onboth short ends of the scarf. Press all hems.

CREATE SHIRRED EDGES4Using a fabric pencil or tailors chalk and astraightedge, mark a line across the width ofthe scarf, 12" (30.5 cm) from one short end.Starting at that line, measure and mark aparallel line every 1" (2.5 cm) toward the shortend until you have 2" (5 cm) left at that endof the scarf. Along the line farthest from theend, mark off every 4" (10 cm), and then markvertical stitch lines to the end of the scarf ateach of these marks. You will have markeda checkerboard of 10 horizontal lines and 3

vertical lines (figure 3). Repeat the entire stepat the other short end of the scarf.

5Using basting stitches (3.0 to 4.0 mm),stitch along each marked horizontal stitchline, leaving long thread tails on each end; donot backtack and be careful to avoid stitchingover the thread tails! Repeat to stitch the 3vertical stitch lines.

6To create the horizontal shirring, graspthe bobbin thread only on the first line ofstitching and gently slide the fabric along thethread, toward the center, to gather loosely.Repeat to gather from the opposite end of thesame stitch line. When you are happy with thegathers, use a handsewing needle to bringthe top threads through to the back and knot

securely (use a double knot), then trim theends. Repeat the entire step for all 10 hori-zontal stitching lines on each scarf end. Note:If the thread breaks, remove the stitches andrebaste along the marked line.

7Now gently gather the 3 vertical lines ofstitching on each end, as before, to createinteresting sculptural fabric. Adjust the verti-cal and horizontal shirring, if necessary, untilyou are pleased with the look. To finish off thethread tails from the vertical stitching, knotand trim the threads along the bottom edgeof the scarf. For the thread tails at the top

figure 1figure 2

end of the vertical stitching, use a handsew-ing needle to bring the top thread through tothe back, and then securely knot and trim thethreads as before.

Optional:For added security, set your machineback to the default length for a straight stitch

and stitch directly over each previous stitchline. This will set the shirring in place so thatthe gathers will not shift.

TRICIA WADDELLis editor in chief of

Stitch.When shes not working shes sewing.

figure 3


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FOR EXPLANATIONS OF


CLICK HERE FOR OUR


mosaicsilk scarfby TRICIA WADDELL

Create a stunning eveningscarf by combining twocolors of silk douppioni intoa clever mosaic. Sew themosaic squares to water-soluble stabilizer using me-tallic thread and you have aunique accessory.

FABRIC 18yd (11.5 cm) each of two complementary

colors of 44" (112 cm) wide silk duoppioniOTHER SUPPLIES

Sulky Solvy lightweight, translucent water-soluble stabilizer (778" [20 cm] wide, 9 yd[ 8.2 m] roll)

Glamour Madeira Metallic overlock thread incontrasting or matching color

Matching Metallic Madeira machine embroi-dery thread

Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting matQuilt ruler

FINISHED SIZE8" (20.5 cm) wide x 56" (142 cm) long

NOTESAll seam allowances are " (1.3 cm)

unless otherwise noted.

For explanations of terms and tech-niques, see Sewing Basics at interweave

stitch.com/sewingbasics.

CUT OUT + MARK FABRIC

1Cut a handful of 1" (2.5 cm) squares outof one color of silk duoppioni. Cut handfuls of1" x 2" (2.5 x 5 cm) rectangles, 1" x 3" (2.5 x7.5 cm) rectangles, and 1" x 4" (2.5 x 10 cm)rectangles out of the second color of silkduoppioni.

2Cut a length of Solvy to the desired lengthof your finished scarf (the sample shown is8" [20.5 cm] wide x 56" [142 cm] long). Beginpinning squares and rectangles to the lengthof Solvy as desired, randomly mixing colorsand sizes. Make sure all the fabric pieces are


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8

"(20.5cm)

56 " (142 cm)

figure 1

close together (no more than about 18"[3 mm] apart). To create the angled edge ofthe scarf, pin the fabric pieces at the same(not opposite) angle on each end so that thescarf will have a triangular shape when the

two ends hang together around your neck(figure 1). Once you have all the fabric piecespinned to the Solvy, you are ready to sew.

SEW FABRIC TO STABILIZER

3This scarf uses two different threads simul-taneously. Thread the heavier overlock threadthrough the sewing machine needle. Usethe lighter weight embroidery thread in thebobbin. This will give you a different texturedeffect on each side of the scarf.

4Think of the scarf as a giant grid of 1" (2.5cm) squares. Machine stitch along the entirelength of the center of each line of mosaicfabric pieces, removing pins as you go, to

secure the fabric to the Solvy. Dont worryabout making your stitch lines perfectlystraightthe irregularities are what make thisscarf interesting! Backstitch at the beginningand end of each stitch line. If you want fringe,leave long thread tails at the beginning andend of each stitch line.

5Machine stitch along the width of each lineof mosaic fabric pieces at 1" (2.5 cm) intervalsin the center of the mosaic pieces. Backstitchat the beginning and end of each stitch line.

6Replace the overlock thread in the machinewith the machine embroidery thread. Now youhave the same thread in the needle as youhave in the bobbin. Stitch along the length of

each line of mosaic fabric pieces a bit to theleft of your original line of stitching. This willhelp secure the fabric squares together evenmore. Backstitch at the beginning and end ofeach stitch line. If you want fringe, leave longthread tails at either end as you did in Step 4.

WASH OUT STABILIZER

7 Following the manufacturers instructions,gently submerge the scarf in water for 30seconds to 2 minutes. The stabilizer will meltaway. Drain your sink and repeat submerging

the scarf in clean water. This will ensure thatall of the stabilizer washes out of the fabric,otherwise your scarf will be stiff. Squeeze the

water out of the scarf and hang on a dryingrack to dry overnight. Untangle any fringe.

FINISHING

8Now, dont be afraid when you return toyour scarf in the morning and its crinkled andfrayed! All it needs is a little steam ironing.Set your iron on the lowest setting for silkfabric and steam iron each mosaic fabricpiece flat. Duoppioni silk naturally frays at theedges, so let it do what it wants to do. This willshow the contrasting fabric threads. Pull any

loose threads along the edges of the fabricmosaic pieces throughout the scarf.

9 Cut any fringe to desired length.

TRICIA WADDELLis editor in chief of

Stitch.When shes not working shes sewing.


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by MARLENE BLESSING

This saddlebag showcases thebeauty of traditional Japanesehandstitching (sashiko) on fabricwith contrasting thread. Madeof wool flannel Asian prints,and padded with lightweightbatting, the double-pouch bagis strong and big enough tocarry all your favorite things.

sashikosaddlebag

FABRIC1 yd (1.6 m) of fabric (at least 45" [114.5

cm] wide) for Shell and Strap (shown:medium-weight wool flannel; Main)

1 yd (1.6 m) of print fabric (at least 42"[106.5 cm] wide) for Lining (shown: cottonbroadcloth print; Contrast A)

yd (46 cm) of contrasting print fabric (atleast 36" [91.5 cm] wide) for Flap (shown:cotton broadcloth print; Contrast B)

A scrap of contrasting print fabric (at least5" x 6" [2.5 x 15 cm]) for Appliqu (shown:cotton broadcloth print; Contrast C)

FOR EXPLANATIONS OF


CLICK HERE FOR OUR


OTHER SUPPLIESMatching sewing threadWound silk thread in contrasting color for

sashiko stitching1 yd (1.6 m) of medium- to heavy-weight

interfacing1 yd (1.6 m) of low-loft batting

Large decorative button with shank (heavyenough to weight the flap; shown here: 1"[32 mm] round button)

5" (12.5 cm) of 1" (2.5 cm) wide ribbon(shown: embroidered silk)

Clear acrylic rulerFabric pencil

Small plate or bowl, about 5" (14 cm) indiameter

Handsewing needlePoint turner

FINISHED SIZE14" long x 11" (37.5 x 30cm) wide. Strap is44" long x 1" (112 x 3.8 cm) wide.


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NOTESAll seam allowances are " (1.3 cm) unless

otherwise noted.

For explanations of terms and techniques,


Fusible interfacing can be substituted forthe sew-in interfacing, in which case followmanufacturers instructions for attaching theinterfacing rather than stitching in Step 2.

This bag is not meant to be machine washedand should be gently spot-cleaned or dry-cleaned if necessary.

CUT OUT FABRIC1Cut the following pieces as directed:

Cut one 13" x 59 " (33 x 152 cm) rectangleeach from the Main fabric (for Shell), Con-trast A fabric (for Lining), interfacing, and

batting. Mark each as follows, referring tofigure 1: Measure 15" (39.5 cm) from oneshort edge and mark both the top and thebottom edges, then use a ruler to connectthe marks with a straight line (this will be afold line); label this section as the bag backwith a removable fabric pencil. Measure15" (40 cm) from the opposite short edgeand mark another fold line in the samemanner; label this section as the bag front.

Cut one 5" x 44" (12.5 x 113 cm) rectanglefrom the Main fabric for Strap.

Cut one 2" x 44" (6.5 x 113 cm) rectangleeach from batting and interfacing for Strap.

Cut two 8" x 13" (21.5 x 33 cm) rectanglesfrom Contrast B fabric and one from batting

for Flap.Complete the following instructions for eachpiece to cut the triangular pieces, referringto figure 2for assistance: Fold the rectanglein half widthwise to find the center point andmark. Lay the rectangle flat, with the markedcenter point at the top, then use the ruler todraw a diagonal line connecting the bottomright corner to the marked center point.Repeat to draw a diagonal line connecting thebottom left corner to the marked center point.Cut out the resulting triangle shape.

ATTACH INTERFACING2Pin the 13" x 59" (33 x 152 cm) interfac-ing rectangle to the wrong side of the same-size Shell rectangle, pinning along all four

sides. Machine baste along the pinned edges," (6 mm) from the edge. Set aside.

ATTACH APPLIQU+ ADD SASHIKO STITCHING3Using a bowl or small plate about 5"(14 cm) in diameter as a template, draw apartial circle (slightly more than half) on thewrong side of the Contrast C fabric or scrapwith the fabric pencil. Use the ruler to draw astraight line connecting the edges of the halfcircle. Cut out the half circle shape (this isthe Appliqu).

figure 2

figure 1

15"(39.5 cm)

bag back bag front

15"(40 cm)

13"(33 cm)

54"(152 cm)

4Place the Shell piece, oriented verticallyand right side up, in front of you, with the short

edge marked as the bag front closest to you.Pin the half circle Appliqu to the right sideof the Shell (this will eventually become theleft side of the finished bag, once constructionis complete), about 7" (19 cm) above theshort edge, aligning the straight edge ofthe Appliqu with the raw edge of the Shell.Machine baste around the circular raw edge ofthe Appliqu " (6 mm) from the edge. Next,use a wide, loose satin stitch to finish the edgeof the Appliqu (be sure to remove pins first;you may want to practice with the satin stitchon a scrap first to establish the best width andlength settings).

5You will now be embellishing the bag frontwith sashiko stitching between the short edgeand the first marked fold line. Using the samebowl or plate used to create the Appliqu,draw overlapping sets of concentric halfcircles, filling the space as desired or refer-ring to the detail photo below to re-create thecircles appearing on the sample. Start at theright edge (with the Appliqu) and work yourway across toward the left edge. The innerconcentric circles of each set are drawn bysimply slipping the bowl or plate down " to" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) each time and drawinginterior lines until each half circle is filled. Asyou draw, remember that the short bag endnearest you, currently at the bottom of the

fabric, will be the top of the bag front.

6Handstitch the traced concentric lines with

a running stitch, using the silk thread. (A singlethread was used in this project, but you candouble the thread if you prefer.) Remove anyremaining pencil lines with water or as directedby the manufacturer.

ASSEMBLE THE BAG7Place the Shell in front of you, wrong (inter-faced) side up, and place the same-size battingpiece on top. Machine baste or zigzag the bat-

center point

13"(33 cm)

8"

(21.5

cm)


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INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Pl t th i ht b t


PAGE 12 OF 12i it d il

ting in place, through all layers, along all foursides, about " (6 mm) from the edge.

8Fold the Lining piece (13" x 59 " [33 x152 cm]) in half widthwise to find the centerpoint and mark on both raw edges. Unfold it andplace it flat in front of you, right side up. Measureand mark 1" (2.5 cm) to the left and to the rightof each center mark (figure 3). These marks willindicate the placement of 2" (5 cm) gaps to beleft open when completing the next step.

9Flip the Shell over so that it is right sideup, and place the Lining piece on top, rightside down (right sides together). Pin in placealong both long edges and the short edge atthe front (embellished side) of the bag. Beginsewing along the pinned edges, being sure toleave the marked 2" (5 cm) segments openand free of stitching; to do this, sew along

the edge until you come to the first markand backtack, then lift the needle, skip overthe 2" (5 cm), lower the needle, and continuestitching. Leave the short edge at the bagback open as well. Trim the seam allowancesto " (6 mm) and clip the corners at the bagfront, then turn the bag right side out throughthe open end, pushing out the corners with apoint turner. Press the edges well to preparefor topstitching.

0Topstitch the same three sides of the bagjust sewn, " (6 mm) from the edge (leavingthe short, open edge at the bag front and the2" [5 cm] gaps free of stitching, as before).

-To create the front pouch, fold the bag alongthe bag front fold line, with wrong (lining) sides

together, and pin along both side seams, begin-ning 2" (6.5 cm) below the short edge. Topstitchthe pinned sides " (6 mm) from the finishededges, beginning where the pinning began,2" (6.5 cm) below the short edge. Position thetopstitching directly on the previous topstitching.Repeat the entire step to create the back pouch,pinning and then stitching the sides seams 3"(7.5 cm) below the short edge (the tops of thetwo pouches will overlap each other slightly).

MAKE THE FLAP=Lay the two triangular Flap pieces withright sides together, and place the triangular

batting on top. Stitch the two diagonal sides,leaving the 13" (33 cm) base side open. Trimthe seam allowances to " (6 mm), trimmingcloser at the point to reduce bulk. Turn rightside out, using a point turner to push out asharp point; press. Topstitch " (6 mm) fromthe two finished edges.

qFold the top (open) edges of the linedwool back pouch to the wrong (lining) side" (1.3 cm), and press. Insert the Flap "(1.3 cm) deep into the opening of the backpouch and pin together. (The widest part of theFlap should align with outside edges of thepouch.) Topstitch " (6 mm) from the pressedpouch edge through all layers to close theopening and secure the Flap.

wSew the button to the flap, closeto the point.

MAKE THE STRAPeFold the Main fabric Strap in half length-wise, wrong sides together, and press. Unfoldthe Strap and lay it on a flat surface, with thewrong side facing up. On one side, place theinterfacing Strap piece between the centercrease and the raw edge and pin in place. Ma-chine baste the interfacing in place, along thelong raw edge of the Strap, about " (6 mm)from the edge.

rFlip the Strap over so that the right sideis facing up. Measure 12" (30.5 cm) from oneshort edge and mark. Using the same smallplate or bowl used to create the Appliqu,draw two side-by-side sets of partial concen-tric circles on the interfaced side of the Strap,between the center crease and the raw edge.Handstitch the drawn lines with a running

stitch as before.tPlace the 1" (2.5 cm) wide ribbon on top ofthe Strap, positioning it across the width (sothat raw edges are matched), between the

figure 3

center point

1"(2.5 cm)1"(2.5 cm)

two sets of concentric circles (the ribbon mayoverlap the edges of the circles dependingon their placement). Topstitch the ribbon inplace, 18" (3 mm) from each long edge of theribbon.

yTurn the Strap back over so that the wrongside is facing up. Pin and then machine bastethe batting to one side of the Strap, as inStep 15. Fold the Strap in half lengthwise,with right sides together, along the originalcenter crease; pin and then sew on all threeopen edges, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) gap in themiddle of the long edge. Trim the seam allow-ances to " (6 mm) and clip the corners.

uCarefully turn the Strap right side outthrough the center gap. (Because the Strap ismade of heavy materials and not very wide,this can be challenging. Use a large chopstickor the end of a long, narrow wooden spoonto help you push the fabric through the gapwithout tearing the stitching.) When you have

turned the Strap right side out, turn in theseam allowances at the gap, and press (usecaution when pressing the wool and use adamp pressing cloth and the appropriate ironsetting to protect your wool fabric). Topstitch" (6 mm) from each long edge.

iInsert one end of the Strap into each 2"(5 cm) opening in the bag, inserting the endsabout " (1.3 cm) into the openings, betweenthe Shell and the Lining. Make sure that theStrap isnt twisted, then pin the Strap endsin place. Topstitch along the openings, "(6 mm) from the bag edge, in line with theoriginal topstitching on the side seams.

MARLENE BLESSING is the editorial direc-

tor of books for Interweave. She has recently

returned to her first lovesewingand is

starting to build her fabric stash once more.

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