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Session 4
Finishing
1
Institute of Textiles and Clothing 2
ObjectivesTo understand the various reasons for textile finishingTo understand the differences between aesthetic & functional finishesTo be familiar with specific textile finishing & their effects on fabrics
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What is Finishing?Treatments on fabric after it been pretreated and coloured (dyed or printed)Most finishing processes performed in same plants as dyeing or printing
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Aim of FinishingTo improve attractiveness or serviceability of fabric
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Classification of FinishesAesthetic finishesFunctional finishes
orPermanent finishesDurable finishesSemi-durable finishesTemporary finishes
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How to Finish?Physical
Use moisture, heat, & pressure
ChemicalDeposit chemicals on fabric surfacesReact chemicals with fabrics
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Aesthetic FinishesFinishes which change appearance, drapability, & handle of fabrics
1. Calendering: to improve fabric lustre by pressing the fabric with rollers under high pressure and temperature
2. Shreinering: similar to calendering except the upper heated roller is engraved with very fine lines (e.g. 300 lines per inch). The shreinered fabric has lustre similar to that of mercerisation
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Aesthetic Finishes3. Embossing: fabric is embossed by passing it
through heated engraved rollers. Embossing produces a raised relief design which is permanent on thermoplastic but temporary on cotton
4. Napping (raising): fabric passes against rotating, bristled, wire-covered brushes. Fibres raised from fabric faceNapped fabrics have softer handle & better heat insulation (e.g. blankets, sleepwear, & winter clothing)
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Aesthetic Finishes5. Shearing: to cut off surface fibres on fabrics
(napped) to provide uniform pile height. The fabrics then have an attractive surface resembling a pile effect (e.g. corduroys)
6. Sueding (emerizing): to sands off uneven & protruding fibres on fabrics to produce a soft chamois-like nap. The process involves sanding of fabrics by passing them through a series of sand-paper covered rollers
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Functional FinishesFinishes improve performance properties of fabrics
1. Antibacterial finishes: to inhibit bacteria & fungi growth. Important for skin-contact items (underwear, diapers, surgical packs)
2. Antistatic finishes: to reduce static
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Functional Finishes3. Flame-resistant Finishes: important for
children’s sleepwear
4. Water & stain Repellents: to deposit a layer of water-hating chemical on fabric surface
5. UV-protection: achieved by depositing chemicals which reflect (e.g. titanium dioxide) or absorb UV
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Functional Finish: Wrinkle Resistance
Cotton & viscose easily form creasesResin (a chemical) is used to improve their wrinkle resistance
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Greige Goods
13
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Calendered
14
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Figure. Schreiner Calender
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Figure. Calendered fabric (left) and original fabric(right)
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Figure. Shreiner steel bowl with engraved lines (250-350 linesper inch)
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Figure. Embossing machine
Relief on rollers
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Embossed Shower Curtain
19
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Embossed Leather
20
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Figure. Fabric raising
Fabric
Wires
Drum
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Brushed Tricot–face
22
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Brushed Tricot–back
23
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Sweatshirt Fleece–back/ napped
24
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Flannelette/Napped
25
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Sueded Rayon
26