Selecting, Planting, and Caring for A New Tree EC 1438

A

Selecting, Planting, and Caring For A New Tree 1

SELECTING, PLANTING, AND CARING FOR$2.00

A NEW TREEOregon State University Extension Service EC 1438 Reprinted August 1997

rchival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1438

Archival copy. For current version, see: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/ec1438

Acknowledgments

Selecting, Planting, and Caring fora New Tree is published by theOregon State University ExtensionService and the Urban and Commu-nity Forestry Assistance Program ofthe Oregon Department of Forestry.

The authors wish to thank thefollowing individuals for technicalreview of the manuscript: Joe Carli,EF Nursery, Forest Grove; HeidiMeihoff, Louisiana-Pacific Corpora-tion, Portland; Don Richards, BlueHeron Farms, Salem; David Wall,Pacific Power, Portland; ChalLandgren, Extension agent, Colum-bia County; Ray McNeilan, Exten-sion agent emeritus, MultnomahCounty; and Bill Rogers, Extensionagent, Lincoln County, all of theOregon State University ExtensionService.

Some of the material used in thispublication was adapted from A TreeOwner’s Manual, published by theMinnesota Department of Agricul-ture, and Kansas Community ForestryFactsheets, published by Kansas StateUniversity State and ExtensionForestry.

2 Selecting, Planting, and Caring for a New Tree

This publication was madepossible with the support of:

■ Portland General Electric■ Louisiana-Pacific Corporation■ Pacific Power■ Pacific Northwest Chapter—

International Society ofArboriculture

■ Oregon Urban and CommunityForest Council

Authors

Stephen A. FitzgeraldExtension agent, Deschutes, Crook andJefferson counties, Oregon State UniversityExtension Service

Paul D. RiesUrban and community forestry programmanager, Oregon Department of Forestry

Project EditorEvie Liss, Extension and ExperimentStation Communications, Oregon StateUniversity

Text EditorKaren Skjei, Corvallis, Oregon

Graphic Design and IllustrationsTom Weeks, Extension and ExperimentStation Communications, Oregon StateUniversity


Selecting, Planting, and Caring for a New Tree

o, you’re thinking aboutbuying a tree. Do you knowwhich trees do best in yourarea? Have you thought

about how to properly plant yourtree to ensure it survives and growswell? Do you know how to ensuregood health and longevity for thetree you plant?

This publication gives basicinformation on choosing yourplanting site, selecting the rightspecies for the site, proper plantingtechniques, and first-year care.Although you may be buying a treeto add beauty to your home land-scape, trees also serve other impor-tant functions in your landscape. Forexample, did you know:■ Proper placement of trees can

reduce heating and cooling costsby as much as 10 to 20 percent?

■ Landscaping your home canincrease the monetary value ofyour property? Houses on lotswith mature trees sell for 6 to 12percent more than identicalhouses on lots without trees.

■ Trees and shrubs conservewater, air, and soil andprovide habitat forwildlife? Shade treesprovide living,nesting, and gather-ing places for manybirds and animalsand offer shelter yearround. Trees and other

S

Selecting, Planting, and Caring For a New Tree 3

plants with abundant fruits andseeds are particularly attractive tobirds.

■ Large shade trees act as an out-door “ceiling” and give a moreintimate feeling to your yard andstreet? Trees and shrubs can blockan undesirable view, enclose anarea for privacy, or separate onearea from another.

■ Trees also cleanse the air byabsorbing carbon dioxide andgiving off oxygen, which allorganisms—including people—need to survive?Your local nursery or landscape

professional can help you considerplant characteristics and environ-mental factors to design a functional,attractive landscape. Remember thatyour own satisfaction with the treesand design is most important. You,more than anyone else, will care forand enjoy this tree.


Site and Tree Selection

Plan Before You PlantConsider your planting site

carefully. Keep in mind that plant-ing trees on your property affectsyour neighbors. And while a prop-erly located tree can increase yourproperty value, planting the wrongspecies, or even the right species inthe wrong place, can lead to frustra-tion and costly replacement. Eventhe best tree will not contribute toyour landscape if it is planted in anunsuitable place.

So, before you decide what toplant, decide where to plant. Let theplanting location dictate the treespecies you select, rather than theother way around. Often peopledecide on a certain tree species,then have difficulty finding a placefor the tree. If you have your heartset on a particular species, carefullyseek out a proper location for it.

Cold Hardiness ZonesOregon is a geographically diverse

state, blessed with mountains, deserts,valleys, and coastlines. Some areas ofthe state are dry, while others receiveabundant rainfall. Where you liveaffects the types of trees you canplant and expect to flourish. Forexample, a tree that grows well inthe Willamette Valley may struggleto survive in eastern Oregon.

The U.S. Department of Agricul-ture Hardiness Zone Map belowshows the ratings assigned to variousmicroclimates within Oregon.Hardiness zones are based on theestimated minimum temperature ina given area. Trees found in thenursery or garden center are rated toa cold hardiness zone or degreesabove or below 0°F. Use this map todetermine the cold hardiness zonefor your area.


USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map State of Oregon

Zone 4 -20º to -30º F

Zone 5 -10º to -20º

Zone 6 0º to -10º

Zone 7 10º to 0º

Zone 8 20º to 10º

Zone 9 30º to 20º

Range of average annualminimum temperaturesfor each zone Clatsop

MultnomahHoodRiver

WascoSherman

Gilliam Morrow

Umatilla

Union

Wallowa

Baker

Grant

WheelerJefferson

Crook

Deschutes

Lane

Linn

MarionPolk

Benton

Clackamas

Wash-ingtonTillamook

Yamhill

Lincoln

Coos

Curry

Josephine

Jackson

Douglas

Klamath

Lake

Harney

Malheur

Columbia


A Landscape Plan for Your Yard

Start by thinking about what youwant your yard to look like in 10 or20 years. The key to analyzing aplanting site is to envision it with afull-grown tree. Although your newtree probably will be only 5 or 10feet tall, it may grow to 50 or 100feet. Keep this in mind when select-ing a planting site.

Next, take inventory ofsite factors such as:

■ Available growing space,prevailing wind direction,and sun exposure

■ Potential site conflicts withother plants

■ Type, depth, and quality of soil;■ Availability of water■ The function you want the

tree to serve (beauty, shade,privacy, etc.)


Summer:Plantings on south and west sides block summer windsand solar radiation and help keep house cool.Winter:Deciduous shade trees lose leaves in fall and allowsolar radiation to help warm the house.

NWinter Winds

Summer winds and solar radiation

Availableplanting spot

Available forplanting fruit trees

Winter winds



Planting Site Review

Here are points to consider aboutyour planting site:

■ Does the site provide enoughroom for the tree’s crown androots to grow? Are the prevailingwinds and sun exposure condu-cive to its growth?

Consider other trees, buildings, orlandscape features near the site.Again, keep in mind the matureheight of the tree you’re about toplant. What looks like enough roomnow may look very crowded after10 years of growth. Tree roots needspace too, and don’t like to beconfined by sidewalks, driveways, orhouse foundations. Some treestolerate shade, others prefer full sun.Some trees have shallow rootsystems, so you may need to stakethe tree for the first year.

■ Are there utility wires or otherobstructions nearby or overhead?If there are overhead wires on

your property, avoid planting largeshade trees within 25 feet of them.Planting large trees such as Douglas-fir or maples underneath power linescould cause power outages andincreased maintenance costs.Eventually these trees will requiresevere pruning. If you must plantdirectly underneath wires, select atree that will be less than 30 feet atmaturity.

■ What is the soil like? Sandy orclay? Poorly drained or welldrained? Is there an adequatewater source?The health and vigor of your tree

will greatly depend on the quantityand quality of the soil in the plant-ing site, so investigate the soil beforeyou plant the tree. Soil near housestends to be highly compacted, a lessthan ideal growing condition. Treeroots need loose or uncompacted soilbecause they must have oxygen forgrowth. If you have sandy or claysoil, peat or compost can increasethe air space and improve drainage.

■ What function will the treeserve? Will you choose a shadetree, an ornamental tree, or aconifer? Should the tree serve asa windbreak or privacy screen?

The purpose of the tree is animportant consideration. Forexample, if you’re looking for aprivacy screen, a maple is a poorchoice because it doesn’t hold itsleaves year round. However, a cedaris ideal for this purpose. If the tree’sprimary purpose is shade, an oak,maple, or ash may be at the top ofyour list.


After considering what type oftree you need and evaluating yourplanting site, visit a nursery orgarden center. Take your site planwith you. Avoid buying the cheapesttree you can find, because you maypay for it later. The cheapest treeavailable may be an undesirablespecies, have poor form, or havesome other problems. The followinglist of tree types should help narrowyour selection to the trees that bestsuit your reason for planting.

Shade trees are deciduous,meaning their leaves turn color anddrop off in the fall. They are bestplanted at least 25 feet away fromhouses, buildings, or other obstacles.Shade trees can range from under 35feet to 50 or even over 100 feet tallat maturity. Avoid planting shadetrees under utility lines or tooclose to other trees unless youplant a small species.

Ornamental trees areusually chosen for a particularcharacteristic, such asspring flowers, fall color, anattractive bark, or crownform. These trees rangeanywhere from 25 to 50 feettall at maturity. Small ornamen-tal trees work well under utilitylines or in confined spaces.These trees

shoulthan sometbut thgrowienvirOrego

Coneedlusuallare thand p

Nanaturpondevine mnumeand oto Orthe h

stren

Choosing the Right Species


d have a mature height of less25 feet. Ornamental trees areimes referred to as “exotics,”is term is better suited for treesng outside of their normalonment, such as palm trees inn.

nifer trees (“evergreens”) havees or needle-like leaves thaty stay green all year. Coniferse best choice for windbreaksrivacy screens.

tive trees are those that growally in Oregon. Douglas-fir,rosa pine, Oregon white oak,aple, big leaf maple, and

rous species of spruce, fir, cedar,ther deciduous trees are nativeegon. Native trees fit well inome landscape, especially alongams or open areas, but mightot be suitable for all sites andsituations in urban areas.

8 Selecting, Planting, and Caring for a N

ew Tree

oses. Visit an Oregon. Books such asation on a particular

Amur MapleCrown spread 15''

Flowering PearCrown spread10-30'

only)spread 35'

Planting zones5-8

zones Planting zones4-7


Trees to Suit Different PurposesThe lists below give you some suggestions of tree species suited for various purp

nursery or garden center to learn about other species that will fit your garden planSunset’s Trees & Shrubs or Western Garden Book can provide more detailed informspecies. See “Recommended reading” on page 23.

Red OakCrown spread 70'

White AshCultivarsCrown spread 40'

Ginko(Male Crown

Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet

SweetgumCrown spread 45'

Planting zones4-9

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones5-9

Planting zones5-8

Red Maples,Norway MapleCrown spread 40'

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

Planting4-8

Trees for fall colorThese trees have spectacular fall color.

Selecting, Planting, and Caring For a N

ew T

ree 9

se Tree Lilacpread 20'

zones

Mt. Fuji CherryCrown spread 20'

Planting zones4-8

Vine MapleCrown spread 20'

Planting zones4-8

lines.


Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet

GlorybowerCrown spread 25'

JapaneCrown s

Planting4-8

Planting zones5-8

Planting zones6-8

Planting zones4-7

Kousa DogwoodCrown spread 25'

GoldenraintreeCrown spread 30'

Amur MapleCrown spread 15'

50

40

30

20

10

0

Planting zones5-9

Trees for under utility wiresThese trees are low growing species of varieties well suited for under power


ew Tree

shad 25'

s

GoldenraintreeCrown spread 30'

Planting zones5-9

ThornlessCockspurHawthornCrown spread 25'

Planting zones4-8

, or temperature extremes.


Trees to Suit Different PurposesM

atur

e H

eigh

t in

Fee

t

Raywood ACrown spre


Planting zones5-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zone5-8

Planting zones5-8

Turkish FilbertCrown spread 25'

Japanese ZelkovaCrown spread 50'

50

40

30

20

10

0

Trees for tough sitesThese trees grow well in tough sites such as poor soils, urban conditions


ew T

ree 11

15'Mountain AshCrown spread 20'

Planting zones4-8

Vine MapleCrown spread 20'

Planting zones4-8

e coastal region.


Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet

Scotch PineCrown spread

Shore PineCrown spread 15'

Planting zones6-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones6-8

Jacqumonti BirchCrown spread 30'

Sitka SpruceCrown spread 30'

100

80

60

40

20

0

Trees for the Oregon coastThese trees are well suited to the abundant moisture and high winds of th


ew Tree

ng zones

Norway MapleCrown spread 40'

suratreen spread 40'

Planting zones4-8

energy costs.

nlessspurhorn

n spread 25'

ng zones

Star MagnoliaCrown spread 15'

Planting zones4-8


Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet


HorsechestnutCrown spread 50'

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones5-9

Planting zones4-9

Planti5-8

LindenCrown spread 50'

KatCrow

100

80

60

40

20

0

Deodar CedarCrown spread 75'

Planting zones6-8

Trees for summer energy conservationThese trees can help shade your home in summer, keeping it cooler and reducing

Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet

Flowering CherryCrown spread10-30'

ThorCockHawtCrow

Planti4-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones5-8

Eastern RedbudCrown spread 20'

FloweringCrabappleCrown spread10-30'


50

40

30

20

10

0

Planting zones2-8

Trees for spring flowersThese trees put on a show of color and fragrance in the spring.

eigh

t in

Fee

t


HorsechestnutCrown spread 50'

ing zones

LindenCrown spread 50'

Norway MapleCrown spread 40'

KatsuratreeCrown spread 40'

100

80

60

40

Planting zones4-8

Deodar CedarCrown spread 75'

ur Maplewn spread 15'

ing zones

Canada RedChokecherryCrown spread 20'

Planting zones4-7



ew T

ree 13

Mat

ure

HPlanting zones4-8

Planting zones5-9

Planting zones4-9

Plant5-8

20

0

Planting zones6-8

Mat

ure

Hei

ght

in F

eet

Eastern RedbudCrown spread 20'

Turkish FilbertCrown spread 25'

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones4-8

Planting zones4-9

Planting zones6-9

Yellow woodCrown spread 40'

AmCro

HackberryCrown spread 35'

50

40

30

20

10

0

Plant4-7

Trees for water conservationThese trees require little watering beyond early establishment.



It has been said that anyone canplant a tree. While this may be true,not everyone knows how to plant atree correctly. The next few pagesprovide step-by-step instructions forplanting a tree.

Planting SeasonPlant shade and ornamental trees

during the dormant season whenthere are no leaves on the tree. Inwestern Oregon, plant trees betweenNovember and April. In easternOregon, there are two plantingseasons: early to late fall (Septemberto November) until the groundfreezes; and in spring just after theground has thawed until late May.Avoid planting trees in hot, dryweather.

TransportingTrees are often damaged or

stressed during the trip home fromthe nursery. Take special care toreduce injuries by using the propervehicle when loading and unloadingyour tree. Before transporting,

PLANTING

protect the buds (or leaves) andneedles from the wind by wrappingor covering them. Cushion stemsand branches, particularly if they rubagainst the vehicle. Tie the treesecurely and avoid high speed travel.Often the cost of delivery is worththe reduced damage to the tree.

Temporary StoragePlant your tree as soon as possible.

If you must store it before planting,put it on the north side of a buildingaway from direct sunlight and heat.Keep the root ball moist to preventthe roots from drying out. Put abare-root tree in loose soil or saw-dust mulch and keep it moist. If youcan’t plant the tree within 1 to3 days, make arrangements to leaveit at the nursery until you have timeto plant it.

Preparing the Planting HoleProper planting is the most

important step. Many problems witha tree can be traced back toimproper planting. Dig the hole atleast 2 feet wider than the size of theroot system or root ball. A large holewill allow better root growth and isespecially important in compactedsoils. Roughen the sides of the hole,which should be the same width atthe top and bottom, and remove anyrocks or debris.

oor C


Planting the TreePlanting depth is of critical

importance. Trees often are plantedtoo deep in the hole. Carefully setthe tree in the hole at the samedepth or slightly higher than it wasat the nursery. Plant it with theroot collar at ground level orslightly higher (2") to allowfor settling.

Balled and burlappedtrees. When placing thetree in the hole, alwayssupport the root ball withyour hands and gently placethe tree in the hole to testfor proper depth. Never dropthe tree on theground or in thehole as thisdisturbs the rootball and can breakthe roots. Theroot flare and topof the soil ballindicate theoriginal plantingdepth. Take carenot to loosen orbreak the soil ball.

Cut and removeall twine aroundthe trunk. Pull orcut the burlapaway from thetrunk and top ofthe ball as fardown as possible.Sometimes theroot ball iswrapped withnon-degradable

2x2 Stake

Ro


fabric; be sure to cut away this fabric.If the root ball also is supported by awire basket, bend or extend portionsof the wire basket down below thesoil surface level. Cut the wire away

once the tree is inplace at the

properdepth.

Soil Bermt Flarerown

Backfill

Rootball



Container trees. Container treesoften have roots growing around theinside of the container. Afterremoving the container, gentlystraighten the roots to avoid girdlingroot problems. The root flare andtop of the soil ball indicate theoriginal planting depth and the levelat which you should plant the tree.

Bare-root trees. The key tosuccessfully planting a bare-root treeis to keep the roots moist beforeplanting. After digging the hole,mound some soil in the center. Setthe root mass on top of this moundso the roots cascade downward ineach direction. Again, where theroot flare meets the trunk is whereyou will find the appropriate plant-ing level.

Backfilling the HoleIf you plan on staking your tree,

drive two wooden or metal postsalong the sides of the hole beforeyou backfill. This prevents you fromaccidentally driving the stakesthrough the root ball and damagingthe root system.

Fill the hole with soil about one-half full, lightly tamping it with yourfoot to remove any air pockets.Make sure the tree is standingupright and not leaning. Waterslowly to saturate the soil andremove any remaining air pockets,then finish filling the hole withsoil. Remove any extra soil ratherthan mounding it around the tree.Build a temporary berm at thedrip line to hold water aroundthe root system.

Soil AmendmentsAmendments are additions to the

soil that enhance its moisture-holding capacity, nutrient availabil-ity, or structure. Amendmentsinclude good loamy topsoil, peatmoss, and various kinds of mulches.Most soils in Oregon—except sandysoil, soil with a high clay content, orsoil that has been heavily disturbedby construction—don’t requireamendments.

Sandy soil, often found in easternOregon or along the Oregon coast,benefits from the addition of organicmatter such as peat moss to theplanting hole to increase the soil’smoisture-holding capacity aroundthe roots.

Additions of organic matter alsohelp clay soil. This soil is easilycompacted which obstructs themovement of water and air. Mixingin organic matter helps break up clayparticles and improves water and airflow around the roots.

Construction equipment com-pacts soil and removesvaluable topsoil.



Additions of top soil, peat moss, andother organic matter can improve atree’s growth and survivability onconstruction sites.

How much soil amendmentshould you add to the backfill?Generally a ratio of one-thirdamendment mixed with two-thirdsof existing soil is sufficient. Usecaution with composted materials,which may be very hot from biologi-cal activity or high in salts (manureis one example).

Early FertilizationContrary to popular belief, you

don’t need to fertilize trees whenyou plant them. However, if youwant, you can use a well-balanced(for example, a 10-10-10 formula-tion), slow-release fertilizer in theplanting hole. Slow-release fertilizershave a long-lasting effect and areless likely to burn the roots. Otherfertilizers can accentuate transplantshock. Never use lawn fertilizers in aplanting hole.

Before you water, examine the soilmoisture 4 to 8 inches deep. If thesoil feels dry or just slightly damp, itneeds water. Well-drained, sandy soilswill need more water more often thana loam or clay soil. The best way towater a newly planted tree is to placea garden hose at the base of the tree.Run a slow trickle of water for severalhours or until the soil is thoroughlysoaked. To help hold or direct thewater around the root system, build atemporary soil berm or saucer. Avoidshort, frequent watering, whichpromotes development of a shallowroot system that is more vulnerableto drying out and other stresses.

In eastern Oregon, plant ornamen-tal and shade trees in an irrigatedlandscape or hand-water them regu-larly to ensure their survival. In drierregions of eastern Oregon, trees oftenneed water during winter to preventdesiccation.

WateringNewly planted trees require

routine and thorough watering,particularly during Oregon’s drysummer months. Water the treeregularly for at least 3 years afterplanting. Soil and weather condi-tions, as well as the amount ofcompeting grass around the tree,dictate how much water to give andhow often. In general, trees need theequivalent of 1 inch of rainfall perweek from June through September.

Remember that trees use watereven during winter. Just before theground freezes in late fall, give yourtree a thorough watering. Duringmild winters, where temperatures areabove normal and the ground thaws,give your tree periodic watering.This is particularly important forconifers, which retain their needlesand use water readily during winter.

EARLY TREE CARE



MulchingUsing a mulch around the base of

the tree is an important part of long-term tree care. A mulch keeps thesoil moist, limits weed growth, anddiscourages injury from lawnmowersand weed-eaters.

Wood and bark chips are goodmulching materials. You can use aporous landscape fabric as a weedbarrier underneath the chips, butdon’t use plastic because it suffocatesthe roots. Apply a 3- to 6-inch layerof mulch and spread it to form acircle at least 3 feet away from thetrunk. Keep the mulch from directcontact with the tree trunk. Somebark mulches may contain pathogensor contaminants that can harm yournew tree. Maintain the mulch ringto keep grasses from competing withthe tree.

Staking and Wind ProtectionGenerally, you don’t need to stake

trees. Young trees standingalone with their tops freeto move will developstronger, more resilienttrunks than tightly stakedtrees. However, toomuch wind can bendyoung trees anddisturb the root ball,damaging roots andstressing the newtree. Staking helps treesthat are top-heavy andwould lean withoutadditional support.Staking also helps

protect trees from vandalism andmechanical damage.

In areas of Oregon exposed tohigh winds, such as the coastline,trees may need additional protec-tion. Use temporary wind barriersmade of plastic or cloth, but removethem within 1 year once the tree hasdeveloped a stronger root system.

To properly stake a tree, you needtwo wooden or metal posts. Drivethem into the sides of the excavatedplanting hole before you backfill toprevent driving them through theroot ball. Secure the tree to thestakes with broad straps or hose;don’t use wire because it will girdlethe bark of the tree. Guying andstaking the tree so it is secure fromblowing over, but allow the trunkto move up to 2 inches in anydirection.

If staking doesn’t allow somemovement of the tree’s trunk, thetree will not allocate any growth(wood) to the main stem and it will

be unstable when you remove thestakes and guying. Remem-

ber to remove the stakeand guying materials

within a year.


FertilizationFertilize established trees (1 year

after planting) every 2 or 3 years inthe fall after the leaves have droppedor in early spring before growthbegins. Apply the fertilizer directlyto the soil surface and water it in. Ifthere is thick grass sod beneath thetree, use a pipe to punch holes12 inches deep in the sod beneaththe drip line of the tree and applythe fertilizer in the holes. This helpsthe fertilizer reach the tree’s rootsystem. Avoid using “weed and feed”fertilizers around the root zone ofyour tree.

Note: Don’t apply nitrogen in latesummer because it can stimulate newgrowth that may not “harden off” orgo into fall dormancy properly andwill be more easily damaged by earlyfall frosts.

PruningPruning is one of the most impor-

tant and least understood aspects oftree care. Pruning will affect yourtree’s longevity, health, and resis-tance to storm damage. Here aresome prevalent myths and factsabout tree pruning.

Myth: Prune back the crown ofthe tree to compensate for any rootslost during transplanting.

Fact: Trees should not be prunedat the time of planting except toremove broken or dead branches.The crown of a young tree shouldnot be cut back to compensate forroot loss. If a tree has a doubleleader, you can remove the weaker


A

Branch Bark Ridge

BC

CB

A

Branch CollarBranch Collar

Hard Woods

Conifers

Branch Collar

Branch Bark Ridge

A

BC

A= First cutB= Second cutC= Third cut

or inferior stem. However, littlepruning is done the first 3 years afterplanting.

Myth: Paint pruning cuts to helpthe tree heal.

Fact: Don’t use tree paint on thecut surfaces or on other wounds.Tree paint does not seal the woundproperly and can trap moisturebehind the paint, encouraging stemdecay and attracting insects.

Hardwoods

Conifers



Before Pruning After Pruning

Myth: Tree topping is the properway to prune a tree.

Fact: Tree topping is the removalof large branches at the top of thetree. Topping is both ugly anddangerous. Topping is the mostexpensive form of pruning because itcreates large wounds that allow rotand fungal decay to enter the treeand damage the tree’s appearance,and reduce its value and life expect-ancy. Never top a tree!

Myth: Top trees so that they don’tget too big.

Fact: Topped trees are more likelyto break apart in storms or causeproperty damage than trees thathave retained their natural shape.

Topping weakens the structuralintegrity of the tree and causes it todrop limbs.

Myth: A tree will grow just finewithout any pruning.

Fact: This may be true for trees inthe woods, but not for trees in ourneighborhoods. As your tree grows,it will need periodic pruning. Sometrees benefit from pruning a littleevery year to keep their shape andremove fast-growing water sprouts.Other trees grow more slowly andbenefit from infrequent pruning.

The best time of year to prunevaries depending on whether yourtree is a conifer or a deciduous tree.Prune conifers in late summer and

Before Pruning After Pruning



fall. This reduces the amount ofpitch the tree exudes and lessens thechance of attack by the Sequoiapitch moth, an insect commonthroughout Oregon. Female Sequoiapitch moths emerge in the springand are attracted to fresh wounds.Delaying pruning until late summeror fall, after the moths have flown,helps prevent this problem.

Prune deciduous trees in latewinter or early spring before theleaves begin to appear. This allowsthe new growth to begin coveringthe wound and lets the tree inter-nally seal the wound during thegrowing season.

Periodic, selective branch pruningwill keep your tree healthy and ingood shape. The rule is never toremove more than one-third of thetree’s crown in any given pruning.See the diagrams on page 20 forproper pruning procedures.

WrappingWrapping the tree’s trunk is

unnecessary for most trees. If yourtree comes already wrapped, removethe wrapping and inspect the trunkfor signs of damage or wounds. If thetree has a wound, remove thewrapping completely and allow thewound to dry out and stay dry toprevent further decay and rot.

However, some nurseries requirewrap as part of their guarantee. If so,after inspecting your tree, wrap fromthe ground upward, making sure thatthe wrappings overlap like roofshingles to repel rainwater. Waterthat gets beneath the wrappingincreases the chance of insects anddisease because it creates a moistenvironment underneath thewrapping. Wrapping is temporaryand should eventually be removed,usually after the first year.

Periodically inspect your tree forsigns of insects, disease, or otherproblems.

■ Abnormal leaf or needle colorindicates insects, disease, or lackof nutrients.

■ Abnormally small leaves orleaves that have brown marginsmay be caused by lack of water.

■ Excessive pitching or oozing offluid could be caused by an oldwound, disease, or insects.

■ Branches that die suddenlyindicate the presence of insects ora stem disease.

■ Leaves that look like they havebeen eaten usually mean insectsare feeding on them.

If you aren’t sure what’s causingthe problem, take a sample of theaffected area to your local nursery ortree care professional or OSUExtension Service agent to see ifthey can diagnose the problem andprescribe a treatment.

MONITORING YOUR TREE’S HEALTH

RCES



ADDITIONAL RESOU

Arborists and OtherTree Care Professionals

Here are several sources ofinformation to keep your treehealthy and attractive.

Call a professional arborist foradvice on tree care. Most arboristsare listed under “Tree Service” inthe telephone directory. As withpurchasing any service, carefullyconsider all your options. Read“Selecting an arborist” below beforesigning a contract.

The Oregon State UniversityExtension Service has offices inevery Oregon county. Some countieshave a horticulture or forestry agent.In many counties the OSU Exten-sion Service coordinates the MasterGardener program, a trainingprogram for people interested inlearning more about plants andtrees. Master Gardeners are avail-able by phone to answer your plantcare questions. Look in your localtelephone directory under “OSUExtension Service” or in the countyand state services section.

See whether your community hasa program to plant and care for trees.Many Oregon cities have earned thestatus “Tree City USA” forhaving comprehensivecommunity forestryprograms. Contactyour local parks orpublic works agencyand find out how youcan get involved inplanting and caring fortrees in your community. If your

city isn’t a “Tree City USA” com-munity, consider joining the effort.

If you have questions aboutplanting trees around utility lines,call your local utility. They can helpyou with safety issues and questionsabout species to plant near lines.

Selecting an arborist. As yourtree matures, it may need profes-sional care. Or you may have othertrees that need pruning, fertilization,or removal. When the job is too bigto handle yourself, call a profes-sional. Most, but not all, tree servicecompanies are reputable. Here aresome tips on how to hire an arborist:

■ Hire someone who is bonded,licensed, and insured. Tree servicecompanies must register with theState of Oregon, so ask for acontractor registration number.

-

.


■ Ask for references and get morethan one bid. Take your time andselect a company you know isreputable. Ask friends and neigh-bors to recommend companiesthat have successfully cared fortheir trees.

■ Ask for a certified arborist.Certified arborists are people withtree care experience who havepassed the International Societyof Arboriculture’s (ISA) Certification Exam. To get a list of certi-fied arborists in your area, call theISA Pacific Northwest Chapter,(206) 784-1945.

■ Beware of door-knockers. Mostcompanies have business cards,uniforms, truck signs, etc. Mostreputable companies advertise anddon’t solicit business door-to-door

■ A good arborist rarely recom-mends topping, and should try totalk you out of it if you request tohave a tree topped. Avoid treetoppers at all costs!

■ Never allow a climber to usespikes or spurs to climb your treeunless the tree is to be removed.


For More Information

National Arbor Day Foundation(NADF), 100 Arbor Avenue,Nebraska City, NE 68410. TheFoundation publishes materials ontree planting and care.

American Forests, P.O. Box 2000,Washington, DC 20013. Thisorganization publishes a free maga-zine, Urban Forests, which tells howcommunities can improve theirquality of life through trees.

Oregon Urban and CommunityForest Council, P.O. Box 13074,Salem, OR 97309. The Councilpromotes proper tree planting andcare.

Recommended ReadingYour local library or book store

has many good books on tree plant-ing and care. A few we recommendare:

Sunset Western Garden Book,Sunset Publishing Corp., MenloPark, CA, 1992.

Sunset Trees and Shrubs, SunsetPublishing Corp., Menlo Park, CA,1992.

The Complete Guide to LandscapeDesign, Renovation, and Maintenance,by Cass Turnbull, Betterway Publica-tions, Inc., Crozet, VA, 1991.


This publication was produced and distrib-uted in furtherance of the Acts of Congressof May 8 and June 30, 1914. Extension workis a cooperative program of Oregon StateUniversity, the U.S. Department of Agricul-ture, and Oregon counties.

Oregon State University Extension Serviceoffers educational programs, activities, andmaterials—without regard to race, color,religion, sex, sexual orientation, national origin,age, marital status, disability, and disabledveteran or Vietnam-era veteran status—asrequired by Title VI of the Civil Rights Actof 1964, Title IX of the Education Amend-ments of 1972, and Section 504 of theRehabilitation Act of 1973. Oregon StateUniversity Extension Service is an EqualOpportunity Employer.

OREGON

DEP

ARTMENT OF FO

REST

RY


Documents

Selecting, Planting, and Caring for A New Tree EC 1438