SECTION KFRONT SUSPENSION AND FRONT HUBS

Section No. K.!. Independent front suspension.

Section No. K.2. Coil springs .

Section No. K.3. Front suspension

Section No. KA. Examination for wear

Section No . K.5. Reassembling fron t suspension

Section No. K.6. Castor and camber angles and

swivel pin inclination

Section No . K.7. Front hubs

Section No. K.8 . Shock absorbers

Section No. K .9. Lower link mountings

Section No. K.IO. Fault diagnosis

SECTION KFRONT SUSPENSION AND FRONT HUBS

K

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FR O N T S U SPENSION AN D F R O N T HUBS KSection K.1

INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION

Description

The independent suspension is of the 'wishbone' type.It consists of a single armed Armstrong doubl e-actingshock absor ber, bolted to its support bracke t, at itsupper end. The single arm is towards the front of the carand is secured to the swivel pin trunnion link by afulcrum pin and metalastik rubber bushes. The bottomend of the swivel pin is secured to the outer end of thelower links by a fulcrum which is cottered in position.

The inner arms of the lower links are fixed to bracketsby metalastik rubber bushes and fulcrum pins .

A rebound buffer is fitted to the bottom of the coilspring top bracket and a smaller rebound buffer unde rthe shock absorber arm .

A sprin g seat is secured to the lower links by fourbolts, flat washers and self-locking nuts, thus keepingthe spring compressed.

Checking for wear

The following tests should be made to check for wearin various components of the suspension unit.

(1) Wear of the swivel pin, its bushes, or both, maybe checked by jacking up the car until the front

Description

The independent suspension is of the 'wishbone' type.It consists of a single armed Armstrong double-actingshock absorber, bolted to its support bracket , at itsupp er end. The single arm is towards the front of the carand is secured to the swivel pin trunnio n link by afulc rum n in and m p.t::l b <:: t ik- rllhhpr }mch p c Th". h Attrm..

wheels are clear of the ground. Grip two partsof the tyre diametrically opposite in a verticalplane and endeavour to rock the wheel in thatplane. If any movement is felt at the wheel, theswivel pin, its bushes, or both are worn.

(2) Vertical or horizontal movement of the shockabsorber cross shaft relative to its body, denoteswear in the shock absorber bearings, and canonly be remedied by fitting a new shock absorber.These bearings are best checked with the suspen­sion dismantled, when with some freedom ofmovement it is possible to move the shockabsorber arm which is attached to the cross shaft.

(3) The metalast ik fulcrum pin bushes slowlydeteriorate due to wear and weather conditions.They must therefore be renewed if softening ofthe rubber or side movement is evident.

(4) The threaded bushes of the screwed trunnionfulcrum pin in the lower links may developexcessive play due to wear. Dismantle theassembly, check and renew as necessary. Thethreaded bushes are not renewable by themselves,but only by changing the lower links.

Section K.2COIL SPRINGS

To remove

(1) Place a hard wood or metal block (I i-in. i.e.2.86 ems. long) under the shock absorber armto keep the arm off its rubbe r rebound bufferwhen the car is jacked up .

(2) Jack up the car on the side concerned and useService Tool 18G 153 to screw up the spring seatafter two diametrically opposite spring seatsecuring bolts have been withdrawn. Removethe nuts and washers, then screw back the centrebolt of the service tool to allow the spring toexpand. .

(3) When the spring has fully expanded lift off thetool and take out the spring, its seat and the bolts.In the absence of Service Tool 18G 153 two hightensile bolts about 4!-ins. (11·43 ems). long,threaded their entire length, will be required toallow the spring to expand.Take out two diametrically opposite bolts in thespring seat, replace them with the long slave boltswhich should be screwed up tight, release thetwo other bolts and nuts. and~.sla<;ke-Q ~tJ!e_..!l~~___

plane. If any movement is felt at the wheel, theswivel pin, its bushes, or both are worn.

(2) Vertical or horizontal movement of the shockabsorber cross shaft relative to its body, denoteswear in the shock absorber bearings, and canonly be remedied by fitting a new shock absorber.These bearings are best checked with the suspen­sion dismantled, when with some freedom of

/

K F RONT S IJSPENSION AN D F R O N T H U B S

I

fig. K .2. Using a pair of slave bolts to remove or replace a coilspring.

If the spring is cracked, weakened, broke n orin any way differs from its specifications, itshould be renewed.

To replace

(1) Offer the spring and seat into position, fit thespring compressor, put two guide rods in dia ­metrically opposite holes to bring the spring seatand wishbone lower links into line and compressthe spring by turning the centre bolt.

(2) When the spring has been compressed insert andtighten two of the bolts with their washers andnuts, withdraw the two guide rods and springcompressor, insert and finally tighten the tworemaining bolts with their nuts and washers. Goover the four nuts to see that they have been fullytightened down .

Section K.3FRONT SUSPENSION

To Remove

(1) Jack up the car and remove the wheel and coilspring as already described in Section K .2.

(2) Disconnect the steering side-tube from thesteering arm by withdrawing the split pin andunscrewing the castellated nut. If the ball pinshank is tight in the steering arm slacken the nutbut do not take it off, sharply tap the steeringarm at the side tube end with a hammer, when itwill be found to come away quite easily on re­moving the nut ; alternatively use Service Tool18G 59.

(3) Disconnect the flexible brake hose.(4) Withdraw the split pins, undo the nuts, tap the

fulcrum pins through the lower link inner endsand take away the two rub ber bushes at theouter ends of the lower link inner brackets. Thelower end of the suspension is now free.

(5) At the upper end remove the clamp bolt andshake-proof washer in the shock absorber arm,withdraw the split pin and release the castellatednut on the fulcrum pin. Tap the fulcrum pin off,and retrieve the rubber bushes. The suspens ionunit is now free and can be lifted away.

To Dismantle

(1) Secure the suspension by clamping the web ofthe lower links between a dummy baseplate atthe bottom and a solid metal disc and boIt at thetop.

(2) Take out the drum securing screw and withdrawthe brake drum.

(3) Draw off the hub as described in Section K.7.(4) Detach the backplate by removing its four bolts

and shakeproof washers .(5) Kno ck back the lockwasher and remove the two

setscrews to release the steering lever.(6) Extract the split pin and undo the castellated nut

at the top of the swivel axle pin. Take off thetrunnion and preserve the shims for use duringassembly. Lift off the phosphor bronze oilitethrust washer and the swivel axle along with thedust excluder tube s and their spring, and thebevelled cork sealing ring at the bottom of theswivel axle pin .

1. Lubricator.2. S wivel axle bush (top).3. S teering side tube arm.4. Lo ck washer.5. Se tscrew.6. Trunnion bush (bearing).7. Trunnion link.8. Trunnion fulcrum.pin.

Caption to Fig. K.3.14. Setscrews.15. Rebound rubber bumper.16. Coil spring.17. Spring seat.18. Bolts.19. Simmonds nut .20. Fulcrum pin.

~:r\b~Sh (b~O!mgs).

(3)(4)

27. Fulcrum pin (outer).28. Screwed plug.29. Lu bricator.30. Cork rings.31. Cotter.32. Swive l axle p in.33. Dust excluder (bottom).34. ~ring.

shank is tight in the steering arm slacken the nutbut do not take it off, sharply tap the steeringarm at the side tube end with a hammer, when itwill be found to come away quite easily on re­moving the nut ; alternatively use Service Tool18G 59.Disconnect the flexible brake hose.Withdraw the split pins, undo the nut s, tap the

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K F RO N T S n S P E N S ION AND FR O N T H U B S

:Section K.4

EXAMINATION FOR WEAR

Shock Absorber

(1) The cross shaft bearings of the double actinghydraulic shock absorber may have worn suffi­ciently to permi t vertical or horizontal movementof the cross shaft. If such wear is apparent,renew the shock absorber complete.

(2) The shock absorber should also be carefullyexamined for any leaks and tested for effectivedamping. Damping can be tested by moving theshock absorber arm up and down to the extremesof its stroke. Resistance shou ld be felt throughouteach stroke.

(3) If the resistance is erratic it may either mean thatthe fluid level is low or that there are air locks.To rect ify, remo ve the filler plug and maintainthe fluid level to just below the filler plug opening,while the arm is moved up and down throughseveral full strokes. If this treatment does no teffect a cure the shock absorber must be renewedas a complete unit.

Removing Worn Bushes

Place the swivel axle on the anvil of tool 18G 154(larger dia meter bush at the top), insert the drift andscrew the adjusti ng plug up to the swivel axle to give itmaximum support. Position the swivel axle and anvilon the table of a press and apply even pressure to removeboth bushes.

Fi tting and Broaching New Bushes

As the top and bottom bushes differ in internaldiameter it is necessary to fit and broach one bush at atime.

Using the anvil of 18G 154, place the smaller guidebush (Code 3) flange downwards into the adjusting plug,replace the pad on top of the anvil (recess upwards) andhold the swivel axle in position for fitting the largerdiameter bush. Carefully position the bush (lining upoil holes) and pass the drift through the bush, swivelaxle and anvil until it locates in the large guide bush atthe bott om of the anvil. Note: The bushes have a leadground off at one end to enabl e them to easily enter theirhousings.

Use a press to apply a steady pressure on the drift;the new bush will then be pressed squarely into position.

This bush must now be br oached; to do this, invertthe swivel axle, position the la rger bush support adaptor(Code 2) on the anvil of tool 18G 155, and hold the swivelaxle in position so that the bush locates on the supportadaptor. Insert the larger diameter broach through the

., -, -

ciently to permit vertical or horizontal movementof the cross shaft. If such wear is apparent,renew the shock absorber complete.

(2) The shock absorber should also be carefullyexamined for any leaks and tested for effectivedamping. Damping can be test ed by moving theshock absorber arm up and down to the extremesof its stroke. Resistance should be felt throughout

3

3

4

H30 . 155 . A .5

Fig. KA. Lower link mounting (inner end).1. Mounting bracket. 3. Castellated nut .2. Special washer 4. Rubber bush (bearing).

5. Fulcrum pin.

{7) Slacken the nut on the cotter which is in theswivel pin lower trunnion and knock the cotte rloose. Unscrew the nut, then remove the springwasher and cotter. Screw out the swivel pinlower trunnion oil nipple and its housing whichalso serves to plug the lower trunnion.

(8) Unscrew the swivel pin lower trunnion fulcrumpin, remove the swivel pin and cork sealingwashers, and knock out the welch plug.

:Swivel Pin

(1) Carefully examine the swivel pin for wear bychecking for ovality with a micrometer.

(2) If the pin does not show any appreciable wearrenewal of the swivel bushes may effect a satis­factory cure.The top bush should be flush with the top, andthe lower bush flush with the bottom of theirrespective housings reamer the bushes withService Tool 18G 155.The two dust excluder tubes can easily be re­moved by telescoping them and lifting them out.

Lower Link Bushes

(1) If it is found that the fulcrum pin can be movedbackwards or forwards in the lower links threads,they should be renewed.

(2) Try a new fulcrum pin and if excessive wear is

1----- 2

FRONT SUSPENSION AND F RONT HU BS KCheck alignment and correct positioning of componentsbefore broaching by the application of a steady pressureon top of the br oach.

The small bush must now be fitted using tool l8G 154.Place the smaller guide bush (Co de 3) flange upwards,into the adjusting plug in the anvil and hold the swivelaxle in position with the broached bush at the top.Place the new bush in position and pass the drift throughthe bushes and swivel axle. When it has been deter­mined that the oil holes are in line apply a steadypressure to the drift , until the bush is in position.

This bush must now be broached. With the smallsupport adaptor (Code 4) in po sition on the anvil of18G 155, rest the swivel axle on the support adaptor withthe bush to be broached lowermost.

Insert the smaller diameter broach fro m the top, sothat it locates in the smaller diameter bush (at bottom),then pass the large guide bush (Code 1) over the bushuntil it locates in the larger diameter bush. Check thatall components are in alignment and correctly po sitionedand press the broach through the bush.

Section K.5FRONT SUSPENSI ON

To Reassemble

(1) File the lower link inner trunnion on both sides,remove bits of weld an d see that the fulcrum pinis not tight in the threaded bushes or in the lowerswivel pin trunnion.

(2) Pos ition the two new cork rings one on the insideof each lower link outer screwed bush. Covereach cork ring with a thin flexible metal disc toprotect the cork rings from being damaged whenthe swivel pin is inserted . Now slide the swivelpin between the two metal discs with its cotterhole towards the lower link inner bushes, anddraw the discs out by gripping with a pair ofpliers.

(3) Screw the fulcrum pin in from th e end of thelower link with the larger threaded bore, until itsslot is in line with the cotter hole in the swivelpin ; knock in the cotter pin and secure it withits nut and spring washer. If there is difficult y inknocking the cotter pin home, it is an indicationthat the slot and cotter hol e are no t properlylined up .

(4) Screw the threaded plug int o the larger bore ofthe lower link outer bush and an oil nipple in to it.

____ ~_ PJ.!t JLwelchplug in the other end and suitablvThe small bush must now be fitted using tool l8G 154.

Place the smaller guide bush (Code 3) flange upwards,into the adjusting plug in the anvil and hold the swivelaxle in position with the br oached bush at the top.Place the new bush in posi tion and pass the drift throughthe bushes and swivel axle. When it has been deter­mined that the oil holes are in line apply a steadypressure to the drift , until the bush is in position.

welch plug it should be removed and a new onefitted.

(5) Slip a new chamfered cork sealing ring over theswivel pin, chamfered end down, and smear theswivel pin with oil. Fit the two dust excludersand their spring in the order in which they areshown in fig. K.3 to the swivel axle. Screw the twooil nipples into the swivel axle . Slide the swivelaxle on to the swivel pin and ensure that fulllock is ob tained on both sides . Place the phosphorbronze th rust washer over the swivel axle. Pu tan .008-in. shim (: 008-in. ( .2032 mm. ) and·012-in. (. 3048 mm.) shim s available) on to theswivel pin, followe d by the trunnion with itsbore towards the hu b when it is fitted . Tightenthe castellated nut. Resistance should be justfelt when the swivel axle is mov ed from lock tolock and there should be no vertical mo vemen tof the swivel axle. Increase thickness of the shimsto loosen and remove to tighten , dep end ing onwhether there it too much or to o little thrust.

l6) Now fit the back plate assembly to the swivelaxle. The flexible brake hose is to th e rear an dthe bleeder nipple pointing to the front. Thebackplat e is secured by four setscrews andshakeproof washers. Finally fit the hub, asexplained in Section K. 7, and the brake drums.

H30 . 186. B.

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swivel pin, chamfered end down, and smear theswivel pin with oil. Fit the two dust excludersand thei r spring in the order in which they areshown in fig. K .3 to the swivel axle. Screw the twooil nipp les into the swivel axle . Slide the swivelaxle on to the swivel pin and ensure that fulllock is ob tained on both sides. Place the phosphorbronze thrust washer over the swivel axle. Put

To Replace

(1) Wet the spring rebound bumper and push it intoits hole in the bottom of the shock absorbermounting plate and the shock absorber armrebound buffer in the top .

(2) Wet two of the large rubber bearings and put onefrom inside each lower link . Lift the two armsinto pos ition, insert the fulcrum pin from theinner end so that its washer registers, position thetwo remaining rubber bearings from outside thelower links , locate the special washer, tighten thecastellated nuts, insert and turn back the splitpins.

(3) With the block still under the shock absorber armproceed to connect the top end.Insert the two small rubber bearings in the uppertrunnion eye, tap the fulcrum pin from the rear togo through the bearings and shock absorber arm ,and see tha t the notch in the fulcrum pin is to thetop . Tighten the castellated nut till the notch isin line with the clamp bolt hole in the shockabsorber arm, split pin the castellated nut andtighten the clamp bolt on to its shakeproofwasher.

(4) Replace the coil spring (section K.2) and wheeland lower the car.

(5) The block can now be removed from under theshock abso rber arm. Connect the flexible brakehose and bleed the brakes.

(6) Do not forget to check the castor and camberangles and swivel pin inclination. A Dunlop'Wheel Camber, Castor and swivel pin InclinationGauge' will be found useful.

rII

K

A

FRONT S USPENSION

B

AND FRONT HlTBS

Section K.6CASTOR AND CAMBER ANGLES AND SWIVEL

PIN INCLINATIONDescription

The castor and camber angles and the swivel pininclination are three design sett ings of the front suspen­sion assembly. They have a very important bearing onthe steerin g and general riding of the car. Each of thesesettings is determined by machining and assembly of thecomponent parts during manufacture. They are nottherefore adjustable.

However should the car suffer damage to the sus­pension affecting these sett ings, the various angles mustbe verified to ensure whether replacements are necessary.

Camber Angle

This is the outward tilt of the wheel and a roughcheck can be made by measuring the distance from theoutside wall of the tyre immediately below the hub to aplumb line hanging from the outside wall of the tyreabove the hub. The distance must be the same onboth wheels. Before making this test it is very importantto ensure that the tyres are in a uniform condition andat the same pressure. Also that the car is unladen andon level ground.

Damage to the upper and lower wishbone arms maywell affect the camber angle.

Castor Angle

This is the tilt of the swivel pin when viewed from theside of the car. This also is only likely to be affected bydamage to the upper and lower wishbone arms.

Description

The castor and camber angles and the swivel pininclination are three design sett ings of the front suspen­sion assembly. They have a very important bearing onthe steerin g and general riding of the car. Each of thesesettings is determined by machining and assembly of thecomponent parts during manufacture. They are not

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mounting plate and the shock absorber armrebound buffer in the top.

(2) Wet two of the large rub ber bearings and put onefrom inside each lower link . Lift the two armsinto pos ition , insert the fulcrum pin from theinner end so that its washer registers, position thetwo remaining rub ber bearings from outside thelower links, locate the special washer, tighten the

cPIN INCLINATION

H30 . 141 . A .

F RONT SUSPENSION AND F R ONT HU BS K2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1. Hub cap.2. Castellated nut.3. Split pin.

Fig. K.7. Front Hub Assembly.4. Locating washer.5. Outer bearing.6. Distance piece.

7. Hub.8. Inner bearing.9. Oil seal.

S wivel P in Inclination

This is the tilt of the swivel pin when viewed fro m thefront of the car and is again only likely to be affected by-damage to the wishbone arms.

A useful service tool which can be used for checkingthese settings is the Dunlop 'Wheel Camber, Castor.and Swivel Pin inclination G auge' . Full details of thisgauge can be ob tained from the Dunlop Rubber Co.Ltd. , Fort Dunlop, Erdington, Birmingham, England.

.Section K.7FRONT HUBS

Release the screw in the counter-sunk hole anddraw off the brake drum.

(2) Wipe away any excess grease, extract the spli tpin and release the castellated nut and washerEmploy extractor 180 146 to draw the completehub assembly off the swivel axle.

(3) Should the inner bearing remain on the swivelaxle it should be carefully extracted. It is usuallyonly the inner race of the inner bearing that isleft behind and removal will be found easier ifthe backplate is first removed.

'To Check Wear

The inner and outer ball bearings of the front hubare non-adjustable, the amount of thrust on the bearings'being determined by a collapsible dis tance piece. Wear.in the bearings can be checked by jacking up the frontof the car until the wheel on the hub in question is offthe ground. Remove the wheel cap and hub cap, an drock the wheel in a horizontal plane. M ovement be­tween the wheel and hub as one unit and the swivelaxle nut at the centre of the hub indicates wear in the'hub bearings. A very positive movement indicates bear­i ng renewal.

K FRON T S U SPENSION AND FRONT HUBS

(4) With the hub removed, the outer bearing andcollapsible distance piece can be taken out byinserti ng a drift through the inner bearing andcarefully knocking the bearing clear of the hub.Similar ly the inner bearing and oil seal can bedetached by drifting them off from the other sideof th e hub .

To Assemble and Replace

0) Press or drift in the outer bearing with the sidemarked 'thrust ' towards the centre of the hubusing adaptor 18G 134Bwith ServiceTool18G 134:

(2) Turn the hub over, pack it with recommendedgrease and place the collapsible distance piece inposition with its domed end towards the outerbearing.

(3) As before press or drift in the inner bearing withside marked 'thrust' towards the distance piece,using adaptor 18G 134C with Service Tool18G 134. Then press in the oil seal with itslipped end towards the inner bearing. The oilseal should be renewed if damaged in any way.

(4) Replace the hub on the swivel axle ; place thedrift (Service Tool 18G 7) over the outer bearingso that the pressure is evenly distributed over theface of the bearing. Drift the hub into positionuntil the inner race bears against the shoulder ofthe swivel axle. A good way of kn owing whenthe hub is home is by listening for the change intone when knocking the hub on. It is a goodpolicy to place a pilot cap over the threaded endof the swivel axle to protect the thread and alsoto prevent the outer bearing inner race fromstriking the shoulder at the end of the threads.

(5) Place the pegged washer on the swivel axle sothat its peg loca tes in the slot. Screw the castel­lated nut up to the flat washer.

(6) Put the brake drum on and tighten its securingscrew in the countersunk hole. Tighten a pairof wheel nuts on diametrically opposite studsand see that the brake drum is quite free of thebrake shoes.

t7) Tighten the caste llated nut to a torque wrenchreading of 50 to 55 lbs. ft. (6' 913 to 7· 604 kg.m.),Rock the drum to check that play in the bearingshas been taken out, and rotate it to ensure thatthe hub is correctly preloaded. Line up thenearest slot in the nut with the hole in the swivelpin, insert the split pin and lock the nut.

(8) Charge the hub with grease, drift on the hub cap~n(Lwine ofL~_"-v crrP:l~~~l,~L .py.udec;; tbrDJIQ:S the;

carefully knocking the bearing clear of the hub.Similarly the inner beari ng and oil seal can bedetached by drifting them off from the other sideof the hub.

To Assemble and Replace

0 ) Press or drift in the outer bearing with the sidemarked 'thrust' towards the centre of the hub,..~~_ ~ _--1 ~ _+~_ 1 0~1"AD •••~+1. ('1 .~ __ ~__ 11 0r"' 1 "lA

Section K.8

SHOCK ABSORBERS

General Description

The shock absorbers are of the hydraulic doubleacting piston type. All the working parts are submergedin oil. They are carefully set before dispatch and cannotbe adjusted without special equipment. Any attempt todismantle them will seriously affect their operation andperformance. Should adjustment or repai r be necessary,they must be returned to their makers.Maintenance

The maintenance of the hydraulic shock absorbersshould include a periodical examination of their anchor­ages to the body fram e. The fixing bolts must be tight­ened as necessary, (25 to 30lb./ft.)

The cheese-headed screws securing the cover-platesmust be kept fully tightened to preve nt leakage of thefluid.

When checking the fluid level every 6,000 miles(9600 km.) all road dirt must be carefully cleared awayfrom the vicinity of the filler plugs before the plugs areremoved. This is most important as it is absolutely vitalthat no dirt or foreign matter should enter the operatingchamber.

The correct fluid level is jus t below the filler plugthreads.

The use of Armstrong Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oilis recommended. When this is no t available any goodquality mineral oil to Specification S.A.E. 20/20 W isacceptable. This alternative is not suitable for lowtemperature operation and is deficient in various otherways.

To RemoveJack up the car and place stands under the body in

safe positions. Remove the road wheel and place ajack beneath the oute r end of the lower wishbone armand raise it until the damper arm is clear of its reboundrubber.

Remove the shock absorber arm clamp bolt and itsshakeproof washer. Wit hdraw the split pin and releasethe castellated nut on the fulcrum pin (see Fig. K.5).Withdraw the fulcrum pin and retrieve the trunnion linkrubber bushes.

Once the three securing bolts and their shakeproofwashers have been removed the shock absorber may betaken from the car .

NOTF'._-ThP is~]{Jl.Y§t~ heJeft.Jn...nQ,(,\ition nnilpr thp

General Description

The shock absorbers are of the hydraulic doubleacting piston type. All the working parts are submergedin oil. They are carefully set before dispatch and cannotbe adjusted without special equipment. Any attempt todismantle them will seriously affect thei r operation andperformance. Should adiustment or repair be necessary,

FRON T SUSPENSION AND F RONT HU BS KTo Replace

Replacement is a reversal of the abo ve procedure, butattention must be given to the following points :

(1) The shock absorber mounting bolts should notbe tigh tened beyond a torque wrench loading of30 lb. ft . Overtightening beyond this point willbe detrimental to the performance of the shockabsorber.

(2) Before fitting the upper trunni on fulcrum pin ,work the shock absorber arm three or fourtimes through its full travel to expel any air whichmay have found its way into the operatingchamber.

(3) The metalastic fulcrum pin bushes must berenewed if softening of the rubber or side move­ment is evident.

Section K.9LOWER LINK MOUNTINGS

On later chassis, from Car No . 11126, the lower linkinner fulcr um pins are secured by Nyloc (self-locking)nuts which replace the castellated nuts and split pinsformerly used. In the event of the lower links beingrem oved from the frame, NEW Nyloc nuts must beused to secure the inner fulcrum pins upon re-assembly.

Section K.tO FAULT DIAGNOSIS

SymptomI

No. Possible Fault

1 Unbalanced wheels and tyres2 Slack steering connections3 Incorrect steering geometry

(a) Wheel Wobble 4 Excessive play in steering gear5 Broken or weak front springs6 Worn hub bearings7 Loose or broken shackles

Check 2, 3 and 4 in (a)1 Front suspension and rear axle mounting points out of

(b) Wander alignment2 Uneven tyre pressures3 Uneven tyre wear4 Weak shock absorbe rs or springs

Check 3 in (a)1 Excessively low tyre pressures2 Insufficient lubricant in steering rack

(c) Heavy Steering 3 "Dry" steering connect ions4 Out of track5 Incorrectly adjusted steering gear6 Misaligned steering column

... ................. _ ......... .a..a..... _ .... .. - - 0 ... · _ -.- - - - --- -- - - - · · _--O .l. ~. . '" . r "

(1) The shock absorber mounting bolts should notbe tigh tened beyond a torque wrench loading of30 lb. ft. Overtightening beyond this point willbe det rimental to the performance of the shockabsorber .

(2) Before fitting the upper trunnion fulcrum pin ,work the shock absorber arm th ree or fourtimes through its full travel to expel any air which

Section K.9LOWER LINK MOUNTINGS

On later chassis, from Car No . 11126, the lower linkinner fulcr um pins are secured by Nyloc (self-locking)nuts which replace the castellated nuts and split pinsfor merly used. In the event of the lower links being

__ _ _ L 40 1- _