COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

First italian edition: March 2002Second edition (in english language): April 2007Third edition: May 2013

ISBN: 978-88-896634-85-1

Copyright © 2013 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi,10 Phone +39027490163www.versantesud.it

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover photo Jorg Verhoeven on Brento Centro (photo Heiko Wilhelm)

Text and drawings Diego Filippi

Translations Alexandra Ercolani and Kenny Stocker

Print Monotipia Cremonese

AcknowledgementsMy thanks go to Versante Sud which has believed in and invested in this publication for the third time.Thanks to all my friends and climbing partners, for all the days spent on the Sarca walls, repea-ting forgotten routes and setting up new ones, and a special thank you to Roly Galvagni, Luca Pilati, Chistian Della Maria, Fabio Demetri and Francesco Devigili.Thanks also to Sass Baloss, Matteo Bertolotti and Luca Galbiati for all the photographs taken.Thanks to all the alpinists who have opened the last 200 routes.Thank you Ruggero from La Lanterna restaurant, at San Paolo, for the hospitality offered to all climbers.

NOTEClimbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and those that partake do so at their own risk. All the descriptions in this guide have been based on information available at the time, but this should always be evaluated for yourself or by a qualified person before undertaking any climb.

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Diego Filippi

ARCOWALLSClassic and modern routesin the Sarca Valley

Piccolo DainMonte CasalePian dela PaiaPlacche ZebrateMonte BrentoCima alle CosteCoste dell'AngloneMandreaMonte Colt - San PaoloMonte Colodri

4

The warm rays of sunshine make me break out in a sweat after only five minutes of walk-ing up the steep path to the base of a crack full of old and unsafe pegs. The sunlight paints the wall with endless light, as infinite as the overhanging line which climbs up towards the sky. Nowadays all our thoughts and wor-ries will disappear and this ascent will teach us how to breathe and how to think only of ourselves.Many times I have found myself on the ledge of the piccolo Dain looking up trying to im-agine Angelo Ursella gazing up on that day seeking immortality.The line we are about to repeat is one of the oldest routes opened in the Sarca Valley, but for me it will forever be the most fascinating. Etrieres and hard carpentry work are the in-gredients needed to progress up this route. Nowadays this all sounds a little old-fash-ioned but proud of being non-conformist we continue till we reach the summit. The spec-tacle is unique. Hanging from this anchor the cold wind sweeps up our feelings and carries them towards the valley opening, where the climate is milder and the lake sweetly cradles it. From this hanging belay it is as if we can dominate the entire valley. Generations of al-pinists have followed the cracks and powered through overhangs, but above all, they have looked up at the mountains.Great men have marked indelible ascent lines. Detassis used ice pegs to climb the aesthetic route Canna d’Organo. Classic routes alter-nate with sports routes. Aid climbing embrac-es the innovative routes set up and created by Heinz Grill, mixing with the signs of those who don’t want to leave any traces.These mountains and all their lines would be nothing if it weren’t for these men and their dreams. Dreams carved out by our thoughts

and cradled by the ability to share, the shar-ing between climbing partners; this leads us to something indescribable for the majority of people but extremely clear for mountaineers. It is the relationship between people and the consequent sharing of moments which devel-op while climbing a route which transform a simple ascent into something special. The Sar-ca Valley is a fantastic world, made of lights and colours, made of dreams and wishes. The Sarca Valley is everything and nothing.It is not easy to describe a valley. One should describe the people that visited it, the people that have loved that valley and still do so to this day. One should talk about the people who with child like simplicity still manage to find new lines, new adventures.Diego’s story is like many others who have fallen in love with the valley, six years ago he was just a photo I had on a book full of pictures describing ascents which for me were sometimes too difficult, and today he is a Friend who I share these vertical adventures with. He is definitely the most important gift the Sarca Valley has given me.To say that Diego is in love with the Valley is an oversimplification. It is a statement which does not convey the passion which emanates every day from when Diego comes down from Sopramonte into this magical world. It doesn’t matter if it is walking, climbing, climbing a ferrata or fixing an approach path. The main thing is to glance up at these walls and start talking to them.To write this page, knowing that I was pre-ceded by two great alpinists such as Samuele Scalet and Maurizio Giordani is a great hon-our for me. An honour that only a Friend can grant.

Matteo Bertolotti

PrefacePr

efac

e an

d In

trod

uctio

n

55

DIEGO FILIPPIG u i d a A l p i n a

B e r g f ü h r e r M o u n t a i n G u i d e

e - m a i l : s a rc a v a l l e y @ g m a i l . c o mp h o n e : 3 4 8 7 6 5 8 3 9 4

Introduction to the third edition

This new edition is not just an update of the 2007 publication but a new guide: with new and improved text and fully renewed sketches.

Over the past five years, the Sarca Valley has literally exploded, both in the number of routes opened and the number of climbers present. In recent years over 200 routes, of every type and difficulty, have been opened: they are almost always beautiful and deserve to be repeated, and are highly recommended. In all, there are around 520 routes described in this guide! A good number, since they are routes, which are on average two to three hundred metres long.

Our valley is becoming richer and more beauti-ful, and my thanks go first to all the climbers who have opened new routes. By now, opening new routes in the Sarca Valley besides the cost of pegs and bolts, means a lot of hard work

cleaning the rock and clearing the wall from loose rock, this is a huge sacrifice to be ac-knowledged and respected. You must remem-ber that there are no professional bolters in the Sarca Valley and those who do it pay out of their own pocket, not only financially but also in terms of time and commitment.

Moreover, we should also remember that even if we are climbing on abundantly bolted crags in the valley, which are very busy, we are always climbing on dangerous walls due to rockfall. Rock fall is the main danger we can encounter in the valley, therefore avoid a route if it is too crowded. Also be careful on very windy days or after heavy rain. Having said this, all I can do is wish you all great climbing in this small but wonderful adventure park.

Diego Filippi

16

PICCOLO DAIN 181 South-East Face 202 Buttress 423 Parete del Limarò 464 Parete della Centrale 62

MONTE CASALE 705 Parete Centrale 726 Second Pillar 827 First Pillar 928 Muro dei Meridiani 1109 Croz dei Pini 11410 Spalla Sud 124

PIAN DELA PAIA 13011 Il Transatlantico 13212 Parete Gandhi 13813 Il Dain 148

PARETE ZEBRATA 17814 Sport climbing sector 18015 Parete Centrale 20416 Pala dele Lastiele 236

MONTE BRENTO 24617 Grande Placconata 24818 Pilastro Magro 26019 Strapiombi Centrali 26620 East Face 278

CIMA ALLE COSTE 28621 Parete centrale 28822 Lo Scudo 29823 South Face 31824 Guglia Solidarnosc 32425 L’Antiscudo 330

COSTE DELL’ANGLONE 34026 Sass dela Vecia 34227 Anglone south 35828 Anglone north 37629 Cà del Liscio 39030 Piramide Lakshmi 396

MANDREA 41431 I Pilastri 41632 Parete Centrale 42633 Mandrea north 444

MONTE COLT – SAN PAOLO 46434 Parete Centrale 46635 Muro di Oceania 48236 Parete Sconosciuta 49437 Croce di Ceniga 50038 Parete di San Paolo 504

MONTE COLODRI 55039 South Face 55240 East Face 56441 Pilastro Zanzara 57642 Rupe Secca 592

Inde

x an

d m

ap

1717

PIETRAMURATA

ARCO

SARCHE

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO

ROVERETO

RIVA DEL GARDA

8

3

10

4

5

1

2

M.te Casale1636 m.

M.te Brento1535 m.

Cima alleCoste

Costedell'Anglone

Mandrea

Mon

te C

olt

Colo

dri

Piandela Paia

Piccolo Dain967 m.

6

DRO

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1112

13

14

15

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17

181920

21 22

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262728

2930

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7

TRENTO

Parete Zebrata

Piccolo DainPi

ccol

o D

ain

Luca Galbiati, Diedro Maestri, Piccolo Dain (ph. sassbaloss.com) g18

path leading to Ranzo

FerrataR. Pisetta

Piccolo Dain971 m.

Madonna diCampiglio

Trento

Arco

Sarc

a riv

er

Sarche

bowling car park

car park

PP

1

2

3

4

Piccolo Dain is the final summit in the Paga-nella group however its rock is more similar to that of the Casale-M.Brento chain. Two spec-tacular faces have been formed on the south-east and west flanks; the south-east face is a vertical precipice standing above Sarche while

the west side is a wild and suggestive wall dominating the deep Limarò canyon. The difficult and spectacular 'Rino Pisetta' ferrata runs up the east side of the face.

PICCOLO DAIN

1 SOUTH-EAST FACE2 BUTTRESS3 PARETE DEL LIMARO'4 PARETE DELLA CENTRALE

1919

Piccolo Dain

20

0.45 h

1.30 h

450 m.

1 South-East Face

SE

The walls are sunny and very attractive; vertical and compact they seem to dominate the entire valley. Piccolo Dain has an important place in history attracting some of the finest alpinists to come out of Trento such as Bruno Detassis, Cesare Maestri and Bepi Loss, while a new generation of climbers has put up aesthetic and difficult sport routes. This large face is cut in two by a perfect and regular corner known as the 'Canna D'Organo'. The wall to the left is known as the 'Parete Sud' (South Face), while that to the right is the 'Parete Sud-Est' (South East Face).

AccessFrom Sarche park near the bowling ground follow the path which leads towards the "R.Pisetta" ferrata. As soon as you are in the woods, on a flat section, leave the path and turn left up a steep track indicated with red marks. This trail leads to the junction for Ranzo (return route from ferrata). For the routes on the south face (from route Amelie to route Rostagno) turn

Picc

olo

Dai

n –

Sout

h-Ea

st F

ace

SOUTH-EASTFACE

SOUTHFACE

Bowling Sarche TrentoCampiglio

ArcoSarche

Ranzo

CAI trailreturning from via ferrata

DAIN BUTTRESS

Via Ferrata R. Pisetta

CANNA D’ORGANO

PILASTROMASSUDVECIOTI…

ELIA

FRECCIA…

SENZA…

LA ROSADEI VENTI

LOTTA…

MAZZOTTI

LUCE…

ROSTAGNO

SCIROCCO

LOSS

DUDAEVAMELIE

2121

1 LE STRANE VOGLIE DI AMELIE 250 m.

2 MISTER MAGOO 120 m.

3 JOHN COFFEY 140 m.

4 DUDAEV 180 m.

5 SCIROCCO 200 m.

6 VALERIO FONTANA 180 m.

7 DIRETTISSIMA LOSS 250 m.

8 LA ROSA DEI VENTI 250 m.

9 ULTIMA FIAMMA 300 m.

10 SENZA CHIEDERE PERMESSO 300 m.

11 LUCE DEL PRIMO MATTINO 400 m.

12 BEPI MAZZOTTI 400 m.

13 LE VRAI PLAISIR 400 m.

14 MAURO ROSTAGNO 500 m.

15 CANNA D’ORGANO 350 m.

16 ELIA 400 m.

17 VECIOTI E ZOVENOTI 450 m.

18 FRECCIA NEL CIELO 450 m.

19 PILASTRO MASSUD 200 m.

left towards Ranzo and after a section with steps equipped with metal cables you will reach the bottom of the south face. For the other routes (from the Detassis route to the Massud route) continue by following the path. After a short while leave the path and turn left along a trail which with cairns and red marks, leads to the east face.

DescentFor all routes it is best to descend carefully to the left, among bushes and rock steps, till you find an evident trail which descends down the west side of Piccolo Dain. Be careful along a few very exposed sections which have been equipped with fixed ropes. Once you reach the path which is the return route from the via ferrata you easily reach the bottom of the valley.

SOUTH-EASTFACE

SOUTHFACE

Bowling Sarche TrentoCampiglio

ArcoSarche

Ranzo

CAI trailreturning from via ferrata

DAIN BUTTRESS

Via Ferrata R. Pisetta

CANNA D’ORGANO

PILASTROMASSUDVECIOTI…

ELIA

FRECCIA…

SENZA…

LA ROSADEI VENTI

LOTTA…

MAZZOTTI

LUCE…

ROSTAGNO

SCIROCCO

LOSS

DUDAEVAMELIE

46

23 EFFETTI COLLATERALI 120 m.

24 LA SALSA DELL’ORSO 120 m.

25 SPIGOLO DEL LIMARO’ 400 m.

26 LUCE RIFLESSA 400 m.

27 VIA GADOTTI 400 m.

28 MITICA E NOCCIOLINA 400 m.

29 SPAZIO ALLA FANTASIA 400 m.

30 VIA PEGORETTI COVI 400 m.

31 LA CADUTA DEGLI DEI 400 m.

32 LA TIGRE IL DAINO E IL GLADIATORE 400 m.

33 DIEDRO MAESTRI 400 m.

34 VICOLO CIECO 450 m.

35 AMICO BERTO 450 m.

36 CONTATTO RADICALE 450 m.

0.15 h

0.40 h

450 m.

Piccolo Dain

Picc

olo

Dai

n –

Pare

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el L

imar

ò 3 Parete del LimaròThis wall looks like a huge open book, a large dihedral, rarely found in the Alps. It takes its name from the canyon: a deep crack carved out by the Sarca torrent. Along the large dihedral a beautiful and difficult line put up by Cesare Maestri climbs up logically. Up the sides of this route, very severe and difficult trad and sports routes run up these vertiginous walls.

AccessFrom Sarche, drive up towards Madonna di Campiglio, just before the bridge which crosses the river Sarca turn left along a little road, reach a large car park with fountain and play ground.Follow the road which leads to Madonna di Campiglio till you reach the first wide hair pin bend and descend into the canyon along the dirt road. With the help of enormous containment nets it is possible to cross the tor-rent easily.If there is a lot of water it might be difficult to cross the torrent.

DescentTraverse the woods in an easterly direction until joining the path that leads back to Sarche.

SW

47

PARE

TE D

EL L

IMA

RO'

Sarc

a riv

erDIED

ROM

AEST

RI

LA T

IGRE

CADU

TA

DEGL

I DEI

PEGO

RETI

COV

ISP

IGOL

O DE

L LI

MAR

O’

GADO

TTI

VICO

LO C

IECO

AMIC

O BE

RTO

CON

TATT

O RA

DICA

LE

LA Z

ETA

DI Z

ORRO

MIT

ICA…

SPAZ

IO…

LUCE

RIF

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34 VICOLO CIECO H H H

D. Filippi 2008 450 m. (13P)A1, A2, a move of 6a/S1/IIIThis itinerary retraces the characteristics of the nearby route Amico Berto, or that is a first part along grey leaning slabs and a second part made of yellow and overhanging walls. The climbing is mainly aid, except for a few pitches along the first part of the ascent and the last pitches which offer fun climbing along a charac-teristic dihedral-chimney. The rock is amazing, incredibly compact and solid. Limarò’s striking and enchanting environment, of rare beauty surrounds the route: the noise of the torrent keeps you company as you climb the route. The route was bolted entirely and abundantly with 8mm bolts and to repeat it you will only need quick-draws and two etrieres each. This ascent, as for Amico Berto, due to the ease in progress-ing aid represents an excellent opportunity to practice using etrieres to then move onto more difficult ascents.Start: from the start of the Diedro Maestri fol-low a narrow ledge which enters the wall on the right.

35 AMICO BERTO H H H D. Filippi 2007 450 m. (11P)A1, A2/S1/IIIThis route climbs up the large wall on the right of Diedro Maestri. The wall which is 450 metres high is divided in two parts: the lower part, 250 m long is made up of grey slabs, leaning and covered in vegetation. The upper part instead is made up of long yellow overhanging slabs. This route which has explorative characteristics, looks for the more logical and beautiful line climbed completely aid. It represents an excel-lent first approach to this kind of climbing, as well as great training for the route Vertigine. The entire route is bolted with 8mm bolts and to repeat the route it is necessary to bring, only if you alternate them, 20 quickdraws, and naturally a pair of etrieres each. The rock face

A1

A1

A1

V+

A1

A2

A1

A1

A1

A1

A1

A1

A1

A1

A1

III

A1

A1

A1

A1

A2

A1

A1

A1

A1

V+

VI

V+

II

yellowoverhangs

big grey slabs

grassy ledges

CONTATTORADICALE

DIEDROMAESTRI

LA ZETADI ZORRO

AMICO BERTO

VICOLO CIECO

6161

is beautiful and the rock extremely solid. The route, fun to climb, is immersed in a wild envi-ronment of rare beauty. Beware, if you choose to abseil down from the second part of the route, this could result problematic. This route is dedicated to our friend Umberto Marampon and his beautiful routes.Start: roughly 50 m to the right of Diedro Maestri. Name at the base.

36 CONTATTO RADICALE H H H

A. Toni Zanetti, M. Brighente 2010450 m. (14P)6b, A1 (5c obl.)/S1/IIIInteresting itinerary with mixed climbing, free and aid, amidst the beautiful and striking en-vironment of Limarò. The ascent line follows the wall’s weak sections as much as possible, such as ledges, dihedrals and cracks. Almost all pitches offer sections of free climbing with moves in aid, the equipment is excellent: the bolts are placed nearby and you only need to bring quick-draws to repeat the route. Eventu-ally an etriere could come in useful for the A1 moves. The climbing along the first part of the route is disturbed by vegetation, but higher up along the yellow slabs and overhangs the ascent becomes exciting, exposed and worth climbing. The exposed traverses along the 10th and 13th pitches are beautiful.Start: just to the right of Amico Berto, plaque with name at the base.

CONTATTO RADICALE

A1

6a

5b

6a

A1

6b

5c

A1

A1

5c

A1

6a

4a

5b

A1

6a

6b

Ao

5b

A1

6a5c

Ao

overhanging dihedral

easy traverse

big leaning slab

good crack

hidden dihedral

smooth slab

gooddihedral

grass

AMICOBERTO

LA ZETA DI ZORRO

AMICOBERTO

286

Cima alle CosteCi

ma

alle

Cos

te

Claudia Farruggia, Diedro Martini, Cima alle Coste (sassbaloss.com) g

P

Arco

Sarche

stanga

massoAntiscudo

capitello

distributore

ometto

LagoBagattoli

discesa al sentierodell’Anglone

CIMA ALLE COSTE

21 PARETE CENTRALE22 LO SCUDO23 SOUTH FACE24 GUGLIA SOLIDARNOSC25 L'ANTISCUDO

Known also as "Gran diedro di Dro", this face resembles an immense corner at the point where two formidable faces meet: the South face is high, vertical, crumbly and frightful and home to several of the most extreme routes in the valley, while the East or central face is meeker and more accessible. The good quality of rock on this face has made possi-ble several new routes in the past few years. These sport style routes climb the low buttress named "Lo Scudo" or The Shield. Given the number of routes on this face it can be con-sidered to be an independent sector.

Towards the east end of the south face a long and sharp arete terminates with a nice de-tached pillar. This pillar is very visible when approaching the face and is known as "Gug-lia Solidarnosch". The side that overlooks the valley contains some very interesting routes. One of the valley's most historic routes climbs the large corner, climbed in 1966 by Heinz Steinkotter and friends. This route, which has only been repeated in its lower part, is now almost forgotten due to the crumbly and veg-etated nature of the rock.

21 22

23 24

25

287

330

34 OTRA VEZ 80 m.

35 AGUAS DE MARZO 120 m.

36 TEMPESTA ORMONALE 120 m.

37 DIEDRO BEPI FLOR 120 m.

38 L’INVERNO DEI MOICANI 90 m.

39 PROGETTO DHARMA 120 m.

40 OVER THE RAINBOW 120 m.

41 INVISIBILE TOUCH 120 m.

42 JEAN JEAN 120 m.

43 BARBIE GIRL 120 m.

44 PREMIATA FORNERIA 120 m.

45 FONDAZIONE LEBOWSKI 120 m.

46 POPOLARE NETWORK 120 m.

47 CANE CICO 120 m.

48 LO STAFFODROMO 130 m.

49 SHANGAI 120 m.

50 CARLO MAGNO 120 m.

Cim

a al

le C

oste

– L

'Ant

iscu

do

Cima alle Coste25 L'Antiscudo

0.30 h

0.40 h

130 m.

This sector was discovered and appraised by Roly Galvagni and Massimo Maceri. For “Antiscudo” we mean the not so obvious but characteristic rock band which you go round to reach the routes of Cima alle Coste. This band of solid grey slabs offers a series of great and deserving routes, recommend-ed especially in late autumn or during sunny winter days. The climbing is generally on slab, with a few moves in dihedrals and cracks. The protection is quite good and abundant, bolts are used.

AccessAlong the forestry road which leads to Lago Bagattoli park just before the barrier. Follow the forestry road and at the second hair pin bend turn onto the little road on the left (acess shared with Cima alle Coste). After a flat section, turn onto the tracks to the right (boulder with Antiscudo written on it) which enters the woods and leads to the base of the wall.

DescentUsually abseiling down the routes. Or else on foot: follow, to the left, a track keeping close to the wall till you find some cairns which lead to a seep gully. This gully is equipped with fixed ropes and quickly leads to the base of the wall.

E

4834

35

3637

4140

3938

45

4443

42

46

45

46

47

331

285