LIFESTYLE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE | VOL.2 NO.11 | september - october 2013ABAIDEES

freeYour complimentarycopy available in Laos,Udonthani, Nong Khai and Bangkok

ວງ ວຽງ ການ ຫນປຽນສໂສມ ໜາ ໃໝ

The Changing Face of

72 HOURS IN HANOI

PRESERVING LAOS’ TEXT ILES

ALTERNATIVE LAOS

THE FO OD OF THE NORTHERN H ILL

T R I B ES

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ow the year has flown by! It seems like just a short time ago we were enjoying Pi Mai (Lao New Year) festivities and now we are approaching the middle of Buddhist Lent, with the annual boat racing events

to look forward to in October.

Sabaidee Magazine has enjoyed including photographs and stories from these important dates and periods, and in the end-of-year issues we’ll feature even more Lao culture.

In this edition however, we’re delighted to visit Vang Vieng, a place which is beginning to transform its image from party town to a haven of serenity and outdoor opportunity. We list some of the must-do activities and profile some of the best boutique places to stay.

Kate Hall also takes us on a tour of alternative travel options in Laos where the E-bike, historical hotels and traditional weaving are explored.

We’ve got ethnic food tasting in Luang Prabang, displays at the Lao Textile Museum and coverage of the recent 15-year celebrations of Khop Chai Deu restaurant to get through as well, while our new ‘Close To Home’ section features 72 Hours in Hanoi.

We hope you enjoy the coming pages, so sit back, sip a coffee and enjoy the best of Laos.

Take care,

Phanhlakhone SyboonheungThe Director

ເວລາໜງປຜານໄປໄວແທໆ ໃນຄວາມຮສກກຄກບວາຫາກສະຫອງປໃໝລາວ ເມອບດນມານເອງ ຜານພນບດດຽວເວລາກລວງເລຍມາເຖງໄລຍະກາງ ຂອງການເຂາພນສາແລວ! ຈກໜອຍເຮາກຈະໄດເພດເພນກບບນ ຊວງເຮອ ປະເພນທຈດຂນໃນລະຫວາງເດອນຕລາ ຫ ພາຍຫງວນອອກພນສາຂອງທກໆປ.

ວາລະສານສະບາຍດ ຍງຄງມຄວາມສກກບການເກບພາບງາມໆ ແລະ ເລອງ ເລາດໆ ທໜາສນໃຈໃນເທສະການເດນໆທງຫາຍມາໂດຍຕະຫອດ ເພອນຳສະເໜຄວາມອດມສມບນ ເປນເອກະລກຂອງວດທະນະທຳລາວສທານຜອານໃຫໄດສຳຜດ ແລະ ປະທບໃຈກບບນຍາກາດຂອງໄລຍະທາຍປ.

ສຳລບເລອງລາວໃນສະບບນມຄວາມພມໃຈນຳສະເໜກຽວກບບນຍາກາດຂອງເມອງວງວຽງ ພາຍຫງທ ໄດປຽນແປງຮບແບບທອງທຽວໃນ ບນຍາກາດເກາໆແລວຫນເຂາສການທອງທຽວທອດມສມບນດວຍກດຈະ ກຳກາງແຈງເທງດນແດນທສະຫງບສກ ພອມທງການແນະນຳສະຖານ ທພກຜອນຢອນໃຈທດທດສຳລບທານ.

ເຄທ ຮອລ ໄດພາບນດາທານທອງທຽວ ສປປ ລາວ ໃນແບບທບມໃຜເຄຍໄດສຳຜດ ມາກອນ ບວາຈະເປນ ອ-ໄບຄ (E-Bike) ໂຮງແຮມ ເຊງເປນຄສະຖານທ ສຳຄນທາງປະຫວດສາດ ແລະ ການຕຳຜາແບບພນເມອງລວນເປນເລອງທໄດບນຈບພບພໃນການທອງທຽວຄງນ.

ພອມນນ ກຍງມເລອງລາວກຽວກບລດຊາດອາຫານພນເມອງໃນຫວງພະບາງ ລວມທງຜນງານຕາງໆທຈດ ສະແດງໃນພພທະພນຜາປະເທດລາວ ແລະ ການສະຫອງຄວາມສຳເລດຂອງຮານອາຫານ “ຂອບໃຈເດ” ທດຳເນນ ມາແລວ 15 ປ ພອມນ ກສະເໜເລອງລາວຂອງປະເທດໃກຄຽງ (Close to Home) ເຊງເປນບດຄວາມໃໝທຂ ເປດໂຕດວຍເລອງ “72 ຊວໂມງທຮາໂນຍ (72 Hours In Hanoi) .

ກຫວງຢາງຍງວາທານຈະເພດເພນໄປກບເລອງລາວຕາງໆທເຮານຳສະເໜໃນ ສະບບນເທງຕງນງທສະ ບາຍໆກບກນກາເຟທຫອມກມ ແລະ ມຄວາມສກ ໄປກບເລອງລາວທໜາສນໃຈຂອງປະເທດລາວ.

ດວຍຄວາມນບຖ

ພນລະກອນ ສບນເຮອງຜອຳນວຍການ

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11thTHIS ISSUE

Travel

22 Sabaidee Cover36 Travel Feature40 On Display54 Close to Home

Lifestyle

20 Sabaidee Guest44 Lao Cuisine46 Sabaidee Table48 Sabaidee Relax50 Lao Souvenir

Directory & Map

58 Map of Lao59 Lao’s General Information61 Vientiane Directory64 Vang Vieng Directory66 Luang Prabang Directory69 Savannakhet Directory70 Pakse & Champasak Directory

News & Promotion

10 Report12 PR Bulletins72 Sabaidee Club

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WHO'S

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

ALso AvAILAbLe At:

For more informationvisit www.sabaidee-magazine.com

or simply scan the QR code

Contributors

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Ian LaceyR a i s e d i n We x f o rd , Ireland, Ian now lives in tranqui l Vient iane. After falling into writing by accident, he likes to concentrate on pieces that reflect his two great interests in life – travel and conservation. And in Laos, there’s no better place to explore both separately or together. Ian recently completed a 15 month, 27,000km unsuppor ted b icyc le journey from Alaska to Argentina for charity, and since then has formed some alternative thoughts on the nature of travel. You can see blogs and photos on his website www.350South.org.

Kate HallNothing is more natural to Kate than packing a bag, camera in hand, and heading to the airport. Her 20’s have been spent studying in Sumatra, living in India, and trying and testing incredible experiences on behalf of Audley Travel in the UK. This has taken her in search of tiger, Komodo dragon, and even the annual migration of wildebeest in Tanzania. She’s sat down to eat with 1000’s of people at The Golden Temple, she’s ridden horses alongside giraffe in Kenya, and has watched blue whale off the coast of Sri Lanka. After six years globetrotting in style, she now resides in Laos where she works for Exotissimo Travel. In her free time she writes about travel.

Michelle LuehmanMichelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

ຄະນະທປກສາ ພດທະລະພງ ຄງວຈດ l ວສດ ເຊາວະລດຕານນ l ມານະໄຊ ອນແກວ l ສມໃຈ ພມຜາສກ CONSuLTaNTS Pattarapong Kongvijit l Wisith Chawalitanon l Manachai Inkaew l Somjai Pimpasouk | ຜອຳນວຍການ ພນລະຄອນ ສບນເຮອງ DIrector Phanhlakhone Syboonheung | ບນນາທການອຳນວຍການ ເກດ ພດທະຢາກອນສນ eDItorIAL DIrector Gaid Kornsilapa | ບນນາທການບລຫານ ຄຳສວນ ຈນທະລາດ eDItor In chIef Khamsouan Chanthalat | ບນນາທການ ພາສາອງກດ ອຽນ ເລຊ enGLIsh eDItor Ian Lacey | ບນນາທການອອນລາຍ ຂະນດຖາ ອດຕະເມດ onLIne eDItor Kanittha attamate | ຜອຳນວຍການຝາຍຂາຍ ຊາຢາດາ ອະລຍະພນຈະເລນ sALes & MArketInG DIrector Chayada ariyaphoncharoen | senIor sALes & MArketInG khonesavanh kounmanyຝາຍຂາຍແລະການຕະຫາດ ຄອນສະຫວນ ຄນມະນ | ປະສານງານການຕະຫາດ ບນລອດ ສດທພງ MArketInG co-orDInAtor Bounlod Sittiphong | ທມງານຂາວ ເທບພະວງສອນ ບວພາ | reporter Thepphavongsone Bouapha | ຈດໜາ ແລະ ອອກແບບ ນດນະລ ມາທອງ l ທະນະວດ ຄງແສນຄຳ l ທນຍະລດ ສະທອນລກ l ອະພດຊະຍາ ພກສະອາພອນ LAyout DesIGn Nutnaree Mathong l Thanawatt Khongseankhum l Thunyarat Satornlug l Aphitchaya phrueksa-aphon | ຝາຍທລະການ ຂນທອງ ທຳມະວງ ADMInIstrAtIve support Khanthong Thammavong | ຫອງການວາລະສານສະບາຍດ 256 ບານ ໜອງບອນ ເມອງໄຊເສດຖາ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ສປປ ລາວ | sAbAIDee MAGAzIne sALes offIce THM Lao Co., Ltd. 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R | ໂທ / ແຟກ: +856 21 454782 teL / fAx: +856 21 454782 | MobILe: +856 20 5512 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) | ອເມລ ບນນາທການ eDItor eMAIL: editor@sabaidee-magazine.com | ອເມລ ຝາຍຂາຍ sALes eMAIL: chayada@sabaidee-magazine.com | www.sabaidee-magazine.com | ເຈາຂອງ ແລະ ຜຈດພມ ທ ເອສ ເອມ ລາວ owner & pubLIsher THM Lao

Phonesavanh SangsombounConnecting and associating with new people from all walks of life has given a chance for journalist Phonesavanh Sangsomboun to broaden his experiences and knowledge about life. Graduated with a master’s degree in International Journalism from Hong Kong Baptist University, Phonesavanh is a visual reporter engaged in multimedia through photojournalism and video journalism, which he is passionate about. He aims to share experiences with many media outlets in Laos. He has travelled to many countries around the world, both in Asia and Europe, to report externally from these places. He strongly believes media plays a significant role in reflecting societal issues and gives a light to those who do not.

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Recently ranked as one of Asia’s Top 5 Destination Races by CNN, ‘La Procession’ has already made headlines before it’s even begun. The race, which will be run over a 7km course, will also have 14km and 21km options. It has been organised to raise funds for the award-winning charity Friends International, who plans on establishing a vocational training restaurant in Luang Prabang in the near future.

The organisation works with disadvantaged youth and former street children, seeking to empower them by providing skills which may lead to quality employment. The charity already runs Makphet, a celebrated vocational training restaurant in Vientiane, and a mechanics training garage in the capital.

Such a restaurant in Luang Prabang should lead to the successful training and education of youth from marginalised communities, and ‘La Procession’ will have a very large part to play in this.

Runners will not pay any race fees, but instead they will make charitable donations. The minimum donation to guarantee a starting place will be US$200, while US$500 and US$1,000 will be given ‘Silver Medal’ and ‘Gold Medal’ runner status.

According to Michael Gilmore, the race organiser, “There are many things going in Friends International’s favour. It will set up a sustainable social enterprise, it will focus on vocational training and the restaurant school will be a valuable asset for Luang Prabang.”

LUANG PRABANG GEARS-UP FOR ‘LA PROCESSION’On October 5th, Luang Prabang welcomes its inaugural ‘La Procession’, a half-marathon that will see runners from around the world descend on the former royal capital, and contribute to a very important cause.

The seed for the half-marathon was sown during a meeting between Mr Gilmore, who works in the HSBC Singapore office, and Bere Olmedo, who was employed at the Amansara Hotel in Siem Reap, when both were competing in the 2011 Angkor Wat Half-Marathon. In Easter 2012, then again crossed paths in Luang Prabang and formulated the idea of a half-marathon right where they stood.

“I think all businesses see that we are trying to organise something that can help local business as well as local causes, so the community has been really helpful,” Mr. Gilmore said.

Many sponsors have since come on board with names such as Lao Airlines, Aman Resorts, Angsara Hotels and other national and local businesses contributing.

The race wi l l beg in on Sisavangvong Rd in front of the National Museum, and will take in a 7km circuit passing some of the city’s most iconic sights. There is still time to register so log on to www.luangprabanghalfmarathon.com for more information.

Villa Maly is a 33-room boutique hotel that is anchored by a vintage colonial-era villa, once the home of a distinguished royal family. As a complement to one of the region’s most-buzzed about events, Villa Maly has worked up a special Runners’ Package to help athletes gear up for ‘La Procession’ and wind down afterward. Rates for the package start at US$230 net for single occupancy and US$330 net for double sharing, including two nights in a superior room, pre-race and post-race massages, round-trip transfers to the airport, round-trip transfers to the race, and breakfast.

Validity dates for the package are October 4th-6th. For further information and reservations, email Villa Maly’s sales team at info@villa-maly.com or call +856 7125 3902-4.

From October 19th-20th, experience local tradition and an important celebration. ‘Boun Lai Heua Fai’, also known as The Lantern Festival, marks the end of the three-month Buddhist Lent and pays respect to the Naga (spirit of the waters). At night, handmade, colourfully decorated boats are illuminated and paraded through the streets of Luang Prabang to the Mekong River where they are ceremonially set on fire and launched on the water as an offering for good luck. Flowers are also laid in the water and floating paper lanterns released into the air. It is a truly magical and photogenic event.

Maison Souvannaphoum was once the residence of a Prince of Laos. The historic property has four Residence Wing and 20 Garden Wing rooms with the perfect blend of old world charm and contemporary sophistication. The rooms and grounds are designed to be your home away from home. Dine on Lao and Indo-Chinese cuisine at our restaurant Elephant Blanc. Unwind beside the pool or get the luxurious royal treatment at the award-winning Angsana Spa.

Bangkok Airways recently announced its latest expansion to Myanmar by offering non-stop flights from Bangkok to Nay Pyi Taw, the country’s capital. Commencing on September 30th, the airline will be the first scheduled foreign air carrier to service this route and the only Thai airline that serves all three main cities of Myanmar.

There will be three non-stop flights per week on this route – Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Suvarnabhumi Airport. The outbound flight will depart Bangkok at 5pm and will take two hours. The inbound flight will depart Nay Pyi Taw Airport at 7.30pm and arrive in Bangkok at 10.30pm (The local time in Myanmar is 30 minutes behind Thailand.)

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BANGKOK AIRWAYS BEGINS FLIGHTSTO NAY PYI TAW, MYANMAR

CELEBRATE THE LANTERNFESTIVAL AT MAISONSOUVANNAPHOUM

VILLA MALY LAUNCHES RUNNERS PACKAGE FOR ‘LA PROCESSION’

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Coffee Plantation and Botanic Gardens Restaurant and Lodge

Sinouk Coffee Resort

Our Branches VIENTIANEHome IdealTalat Sao Mall 1 & 2Km9, Thadeua RoadKhem KhongPhonsinoun Road, near Thai Consulate

SOUTH LAOSPakse center, near Tourism OfficeThateng - Sinouk Coffee Resort @ Boleven Plateau

www.sinouk-cafe.comsinouk@laopdr.com

www.sinoukcoffeeresort.com

Aromatic FlavorThe Laos Speciality Coffee

i-Furniture Sole Co. Ltd (i-Furniture), a subsidiary company of Kolao group, unveiled its 180,000 square metre showroom at Km 8 Thadeua Road recently under the banner of ‘All about Furniture’.

In response to the growing demand for high quality furniture products due to the rapid economic growth in Laos, the company has prepared a wide range of furniture that will satisfy customers in all regards. They are also the first company in the country that offers a 10-year warranty for its furniture.

The showroom presents a comfortable environment without the unpleasant chemical smell of new furniture, thanks to the eco-friendly materials used to make its products. Drop by for a look at some new household goods on offer.

I-FURNITURE OPENS NEW SHOWROOM IN VIENTIANE

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DON CHAN PALACE UNVEILS NEW CHINESE RESTAURANT

JEUNESSE SKINCARE ARRIVES IN LAOS

Don Chan Palace, one of Vientiane’s premier hotels, has opened a new Chinese restaurant on its second floor, which offers a great diversity of Chinese meals. They recently invited guests to sample the new menu over several nights with a great response.

The new dishes include Hunan Pickled Fish, Stir-Fried Hunan Pork, Bean Vermicelli en Casserole, Stir-Fried Cabbage and Marinated Ribs in Broth with Mustard Leaves. Adding the creative touch is a chef with an in-depth knowledge of the best of Chinese Cuisine and a sure-fire favourite in Vientiane is about to be born.

The restaurant is open from 11am-2pm and 6pm-9pm.

Jeunesse, one of the world’s largest s k i n c a r e a n d s k i n s u p p l e m e n t companies, celebrated its opening in Laos at Don Chan Palace in September. The company markets i tself under the idea of “combining breakthrough sciences that enhance youthful looks by working at the cellular level.”

The opening night saw Aluna sing some of her famous songs, while a fashion show kicked-off the evening. The Jeunesse brand hopes to use people-power in Laos to spread word of their products, of which some harness the power of stem-cells. On show at the opening was some of their most popular skincare merchandise, including Luminesce youth restoring cleanser and Luminesce cellular rejuvenation serum.

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ລາວໂທລະຄມແລະສະຫວນປາຊຟກຮວມທລະກດຍກລະດບການບລການທແຂວງສະຫວນນະເຂດສອງບລສດລດວສາຫະກດລາວໂທລະຄມແລະສະຫວນປາຊຟກໄດລງນາມເຊນບດບນທກຄວາມເຂາໃຈສອງຝາຍເຊງຖວາເປນບາດກາວໃໝດານການຮວມມຂອງສອງອງກອນເພອອ�ນວຍຄວາມສະດວກໃຫແກລກຄາສາມາດເຂາເຖງການບລການທວອງໄວປະຢດເວລາດວຍການບລການທໄດມາດຕະຖານແລະສາງຄວາມປະທບໃຈເຊງໄດກຽມໄວໃນສນບລການແຫງໃໝຢໃນເຂດເສດຖະກດພເສດສະຫວນ-ເຊໂນ.

ພທຮວມລງນາມເຊນບດບນທກຈດຂນເມອວນທ23ສງຫາ2013ທໂຮງແຮມດາວສະຫວນແຂວງສະຫວນນະເຂດລະຫວາງທານທອງໃສຊານໄຊຍະຜອ�ນວຍການໃຫຍບລສດລດວສາຫະກດລາວໂທລະຄມມະນາຄມແລະທານອອງຊນໄຊປະທານສະຫວນປາຊຟກໃຫກຽດເຂາຮວມໂດຍທານດຣສພນແກວມໄຊເຈາແຂວງໆສະຫວນນະເຂດທານທນສະໄໝກມມະສດລດຖະມນຕຊວຍວາການກະຊວງໄປສະນ-ໂທລະຄມມະນາຄມແລະການສສານທານສທເດດພມທຕປາຕາງໜາສະພາຂາຫນຂອງບລສດລດວສາຫະກດລາວໂທລະຄມມະນາຄມພອມດວຍແຂກຖກເຊນຈາກອງການອອມຂາງຜບລຫານລະດບສງຂອງສອງຝາຍແລະອກຫາຍພາກສວນກໄດເຂາຮວມເປນສກຂພຍານ.

ສນບລການແຫງໃໝຂອງລາວໂທລະຄມຕງຢບານໂນນວໄລເມອງໄກສອນພມວຫານແຂວງສະຫວນນະເຂດຢໃນພນທເຂດເສດຖະກດພເສດສະຫວນ-ເຊໂນປະຈບນລາວໂທລະຄມມສນບລການລກຄາໃນຂອບເຂດທວປະເທດທງໝດ81ສນໃນນນເປນສນໃຫຍຮບແບບOneStopService19ສນ.

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SOHO SI MUANG ADDS FLAVOUR TO THE CAPITALA new restaurant specialising in Italian style pizzas and calzones has opened its doors in Vientiane.

Soho Si Muang, located on Setthathirath Rd next to iCat Gallery, is particularly appealing because it’s one of the few pizzerias and Mediterranean style restaurants located outside of the city centre. The menu includes over 15 types of pizza, several calzones, salads and a selection of other western foods. The cool and breezy seating set back from the road is a particular charm and is well worth a visit on the way home from work or for sundown.

Run by Joseph and Van, who lived in Canada for many years, Soho Si Muang is set to become a hit. It’s open from 11am to 10pm.

CHARITY CONCENRT FOR VICTIMS OF UXO

In August, the National Culture Hall in Vientiane played host to a charity concert marking the entering into force of the Convention on Cluster Munitions, also aiming to raise funds for the victims of unexploded ordinance (UXO).

Many performers from Laos such as Alexandra, Aluna, Annita, Tar A’Pact, Toun Diva, Lao Bangfai, Fanglaso Dance Company, Lao Puppet, blind students from the Centre for Medical Rehabilitation and the Lao Disabled Women’s Development Centre took to the stage for over two hours.

There are about 20,000 UXO survivors in Laos facing difficult situations and waiting for support. They need medical treatment and rehabilitation, psychosocial support, vocational training, employment opportunities and education access. The concert therefore was extremely important in the push to raise money to support these people.

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OriginsThe genesis of the beer is what makes it a signature brew. A home-grown beer, it’s the pride not only of Savannakhet, but also Laos. It was Pouthone Xasy who launched the brand with a small investment, but one that would grow to significance. Starting conservatively and with a passion for good beer-making as a driving force, the company now moves 42,000 gallons per month, and these numbers are increasing all of the time.

ExcellenceAnother forte of Beer Savan is the focus on hygiene and safety throughout the creative process. A rigorous training schedule is delivered to the new employees of the company and they graduate become modern brew-masters. It’s a scientific and well-balanced process that must be understood and adhered to if the beer is to rise in national and regional prominence.

FutureIn such a singular market, alternatives are needed, and most definitely cherished. Variety creates a healthy environment and one to engage with. Beer Savan may be the possibility and this answer.

Beer Savan is distinct. Beer Savan is quality. Beer Savan is Yours.

RefreshmentBrewed in the heart of southern Laos, between the mountains and plains, Beer Savan is

quickly becoming the choice selection of beer aficionados the country over.

The New Ad

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Founded in 2006 as a 450cc beverage, Beer Savan’s reputation is steadily rising. Delicately crafted from some of the finest grains and using the purest of Lao water, the beer is

diversifying the palette of the nation. The smooth, malted taste and addition of imported ingredients is exceptional, and quickly becoming a favourite.

ຄວາມອດມສມບນຂອງຊບພະຍາກອນທາມະຊາດບວກ ກບຮດຄອງປະເພນດງາມຂອງຊາວສະຫວນນະເຂດໄດເປນໜງ ໃນຫາຍເຫດຜນຂອງການສາງຕງບລ ສດເບຍສະຫວນຈາກດ. ນບແຕການສາງຕງ ບລສດ ເມອວນທ9 ສງຫາ2006 ໂດຍການບລຫານງານຂອງທານພທອນຊາສທດາເນນການຜະລດຂະໜາດນອຍຜານປະສບການປະມານສາມປມາຮອດ ວນທ 26 ມງກອນ 2009 ໄດຂບເຄອນສການພດທະນາ ບລສດ ໂດຍການປບປງຜະລດຕະພນ ຜານການຄດເລອກ ວດຖດບຈາກຕາງປະເທດມາປະສມປະສານກບວດຖດບ ພນເມອງນນກຄເຂາລາວດວຍຂນຕອນການຜະລດທເນນໃສຄນນະພາບແລະລດຊາດທເປນເອກກະລກຂອງເບຍສະຫວນ ທຫອມນມຈງໄດເປນສວນໜງໃນກດຈະກາສາຄນຂອງຊາວ

ສະຫວນນະເຂດແລະ ບນດາແຂວງອນໆ ດວຍຄວາມເອາໃຈໃສແລະ ເພອແທນຄາຂອບໃຈສງຄມທເປນສວນໜງໃນຄວາມສາເລດຂອງບລສດເບຍສະຫວນຈງໄດປະກອບສວນໃນກດຈະກາຕາງໆໃນການພດທະນາເສດຖະກດ-ສງຄມໂດຍສະເພາະຢໃນແຂວງສະຫວນນະເຂດ. ພາຍໃຕການຮບຮອງຈາກອງການອານາໄມຂອງລາວ ບລສດເບຍສະຫວນຈາກດຈງເລງໃສປບປງ-ພດທະນາຄນ ນະພາບຜະລດຕະພນທມ ທງເບຍສະຫວນ ແລະ ນາດມ ສະຫວນ ທງນໃຫສາມາດແຂງຂນໃນຕະຫາດເຄອງດມ ທງພາຍໃນແລະຕາງປະເທດເຊງຈະເນນທຄວາມສະອາດແລະຫກອານາໄມເປນພເສດ. ເຊນທານສາຜດລດຊາດທເປນເອກະລກຂອງເຄອງດມລາວໂດຍການຜະລດແລະລງທນຂອງລາວ100%.

19 Beer Savan edit

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The ‘real’ Vang Vieng has always been There. Craggy, karsT

mounTainsides, seCluded waTerfalls, an indolenT nam song riVer,

and The broad-smiling faCes of loCal CommuniTies haVe exisTed side

by side for CenTuries pasT. as The Town aims To shed iTs repuTaTion

as a parTy-paradise, The world is again realising ThaT Vang Vieng is

an ouTdoors dream and offers a resTful sanCTuary for eVeryone.

story Ian Lacey

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Without a shadow of a doubt, Vang Vieng’s draw lies in its landscape. Surrounded by the sharp pinnacles of countless limestone mountains, whose figures rise right out from the sprawling paddy fields at their base, the town is remarkably picture-book and etches itself into the memory of every visitor.

As for its history, Vang Vieng was first settled in the mid-14th century as a station that lay between Luang Prabang and the growing town of Vientiane on the Mekong’s sideline. Originally named Mouang Song after the body of the deceased King of Phai Naam was seen floating down the river, the town was re-named Vang Vieng during French colonial rule in the 1890s.

After the tourism boom began in the mid-1990’s, Vang Vieng became a prime location for development and witnessed increasing backpacker arrivals in particular, as word got out of the captivating beauty which lay almost hidden from the traditional tourist trail.

In recent times, this influx of visitors has been seen as a curse and a blessing. While no doubt these travellers contributed financially to the area, the rising tide of party-goers, narcotics and dangerous river-based activities has provided food for thought on development from here on out. And now the regional tourism authorities are gearing towards a safer, more family friendly and relaxed visiting crowd.

Location, location , Location. . .

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Influx of the many

In 2006, fewer than 2,000 people visited Vang Vieng. However, just

two years later almost 27,000 people were passing through. Between 2001 and 2008, these numbers rose from

50,000 to 100,000, marking a huge surge in arrivals.

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ideas to take in more than just the scenery...

on the road to the blue lagoon, you'll pass family homes with women working the looms outside, creating some lovely silk textiles and lao skirts which you can buy. men might be seen distant, working in the rice fields, and children can be spotted herding cattle to pasture.

old temples such as wat mahathat, wat sisoumang, wat kang and wat meung song have display their centuries-old histories for the visitor.

The cave of Tham phu kham contains a Thai bronze reclining buddha and others such as Tham sang and Tham hoi have some buddha images inside and the latter is fronted by a large Buddha figure.

during the festivals, Vang Vieng lights up. The rocket festival (boun bang fai) in may, and the alms giving ceremonies in september and october, are well worth seeing. Celebrations after the end of buddhist lent in october take place in 75 villages in Vang Vieng district.

The district information office in town is best for current information.

cuLture

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Vang Vieng became a prime Location for

development and witnessed increasing

backpacker arrivals in particuLar

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unsurprisingly, Vang Vieng is laos’ premier adventure capital and the sheer ease of access to mountains, rivers and lagoons make for not just an active stay in the town, but also a relaxing one.

The nam song river is the most obvious natural landmark and plays host to a multitude of outdoor activities. during the dry season (november to april), the river is shallow and slow, meaning many pursuits such as kayaking may require an extra push to release from the shifting sandbanks. however, from may until october, water levels rise and the channel picks up some speed, coursing over gentle rapids.

The cliffs and mountains which obstruct the western horizon are the perfect place to wear oneself out and set chalk against the rock in a day of climbing. The rocky (and oftentimes muddy) roads which stitch themselves together around the town are the best way to test the leg muscles and bring visitors closer to the real life of local communities. don’t be afraid to diy the trip and get away on a bicycle or motorbike if the organised tour is not your cup of tea!

outdoor HaVen

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tour operators• Green Discovery runs kayaking, trekking, caving, cycling, rock climbing and zip-lining excursions in and around Vang Vieng. They offer half-day and full-day tours which are combinations of all of the above, also taking in some ethnic villages. www.greendiscoverylaos.com or visit their office on Th Luang Prabang.

• V.L.T. Natural Tours offer a large variety of outings including romantic sunset kayaking, waterfall visits and helicopter rides over the spectacular terrain. Vone, a guide with the company, receives good feedback. Check out www.vangviengtour.com for a map to their office.

• Adam’s Climbing School has half-day, full-day and three day courses (spread over four days) at the limestone prominences. introductory programmes are available for the newbies and prices range from 180,000 kip to 1,325,000 kip. www.laos-climbing.com has the full info.

A word of caution : Although safety standards are gradually

improving, many tour operators are not fully equipped to deal with every potential problem. Always do some

research before getting ‘outdoor’ and ask other travellers for advice. The

companies above are noted to have some of the best safety records.

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top 5 must-do actiVities1. Kayak the Nam Song River : no matter how far you go upstream, kayaking down the nam

Song will be an unforgettable experience. Being hurried along by the quick mid-stream flow,

navigating around grassy islands and becoming spectator to the dramatic karst formations is

enlivening. green discovery and VlT in town have good kit for the trip.

2. Hot Air Balloon : a trip on a hot air balloon in early morning gives a birds-eye view to some

truly incredible scenery. flights last about 40 minutes and can be organised through many tour

operators in town.

3. Tubing : although it has been associated with a previously unsafe Vang Vieng experience, a

good-natured, serene few hours tubing down the river can be thoroughly enjoying.

4. Caving : Vang Vieng is dotted with caves and holes-in-the-cliffs. You can visit the multitude

of caverns yourself or with a guided tour. Tham Jang is the most popular, but the Tham sang

Triangle is a do-able half-day activity which takes in four caves.

5. On the Bike : renting a bicycle may be the best decision you’ll make in Vang Vieng. from

the saddle, the blue lagoon, kaeng nyui waterfall and local villages are mere kilometres away.

Most bike rental shops offer free A4 paper maps.

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unwind and reLaxAfter a hard days touring in the countryside, why not settle down and enjoy some of alternative options Vang Vieng has on offer. There’s a score of boutique hotels and quaint guesthouses that peek onto the Nam Song River and others that exist further into nature. Massages are to be found and plenty of eateries to satisfy.

Riverside reposeAn excellent selection of boutique and higher-end accommodation options is available in Vang Vieng and making sure they overlook the lovely Nam Song is incredibly easy. Here are some possibilities:

• Riverside Boutique Resort : On the banks of the river, this charming hotel is ideal for couples or those seeking solace amongst the striking topography. Dip in the pool, hang out in the tropical garden or take a breather with a cocktail at the bar, this is a slice of Lao heaven.

• Ban Sabai Riverside Bungalows : The rattan bungalows, set back from the waters, may provide the best location from which to catch a spectacular sunset. Set on stilts and beautifully decorated, the rooms are delightfully airy and French-style windows open onto the courtyard below, from which dinner can be taken with a limestone backdrop.

• Thavonsouk Resort : Imagine a thin, tree-lined corridor to your room, sculpted gardens with white, quietly swaying swings, and cosy rooms with a view on paradise that doesn’t hurt the pocket. Then think Thavonsouk. A perfect getaway.

Massage and SpaLooking to put the feet up? Why not walk into the centre of town and try out some of the massage options available?

• Mandarina Massage across the road and west of the main BCEL Bank is an excellent little business that gives Lao, foot, face, aromatic oil and a combination of other treatments in softly lit premises. There are several other options that are available also. Some hotels provide in-house massages and spa treatments but its best practice to ask around as these are changing constantly.

A Taste DifferentLocated about 4km north of Vang Vieng is the Phoudindaeng Mulberry Farm, which raises mulberry trees for silk and tea production. It also cultivates other produce that feeds directly into the community and has a selection of accommodation with a restaurant attached and a variety of vegetarian food and mulberry concoctions on offer.

The organic farm also promotes the use of natural materials and traditional methods for growing its crops and raising its animals, encouraging visitors to participate in the operation of the farm. In town, their Organic Mulberry Café has fresh, healthy meals on offer.

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nam song riVer is tHe most obvious

natural landmark and pLays Host

to a multitude of outdoor actiVities.

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What does the future hold for Vang Vieng?As the national and regional authorities push to develop a new image for Vang Vieng, we asked some of those in the know what this could mean for the future of the tourism and hospitality industry in the area.

Mr Bounpan PhommavongHead of Vang Vieng Tourism Office

We are working hard to make sure that all restaurants and entertainment venues cease service before midnight, a change from previous times. The safety of food and drinking water is paramount so it’s essential to monitor these and build tourist confidence. In terms of activity and sights, it’s about time to really promote places like Kaeng Nyui waterfall, home-stays, river tours, visits to old temples, and travel to caves such as Pou Kham. Culturally, visitors can expect to see weaving and women working the looms, and a host of wats. This just adds to building an authentic picture of life here.

Mr thongsay BoulaphaGeneral Manager, Inthira Hotel

Inthira Hotel has been here for four years. In the past, we saw lots of drinking on the river and this caused so many problems for the community. However, more business people are making the journey here as a place to relax. Our hotel in particular takes in a lot of these business people and there’s a market for us in that respect. The first thing many people do here is tubing, which is completely safe when done in the right manner. We also organise tours out to scenic places, such as the waterfall, which is getting more popular. I think that the government will start keeping an eye on the hospitality sector here from now on, to make sure services are the best. This will mean that they need to improve roads and develop better tourism promotion, but the future looks bright for sure.

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TRAV

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Story & Photos By Kate Hall

How to getthe most out of Laos

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The simpliciTy of laos is whaT makes iT so alluring. genTle smiling people, miles of rivers flanked by vasT swaThes of foresTs, and inTimaTe Temples home To quiescenT monks are all romanTic images we associaTe wiTh This landlocked haven. so wiThouT several weeks or monThs how do you maximise your experience wiThouT spending all your Time in The car? you jusT follow our guide on how To make The mosT ouT of The easy, accessible and popular parTs of laos, wiThouT brushing shoulders wiTh Too many TourisTs.

1. Get on your bike

It’s all too easy to be transported from place to place by car as the air-conditioning provides merciful relief from the heat. But this undoubtedly results in skipping past the subtle delights that make Laos so special. Luckily, there are now some brilliant options to get you out of the car and on your bike.

Vientiane ByCycle (www.vientianebycycle.com) is an independent company led by aline, a long-term expat living in Vientiane. her tours thread along narrow lanes tracing past schools and through glittering temples. they navigate markets and dirt tracks, stopping for local food en route. What they don’t do is major sights as these are no ordinary tours. all tours start at 8am, but you have the choice to finish at 12pm, 2pm or 4pm which we love.

In Luang Prabang, exotissimo (www.exotissimo.com) offer tours on their electric bikes, which are perfect for Luang Prabang’s undulating terrain. the full or half day options offer a historical and religious insight into Luang Prabang, its intricate temples and its evocative colonial buildings. the full day tour includes lunch and a visit to the insightful traditional arts and ethnology Centre.

2. Wake up early

If you want to escape the scores of tourists anywhere in the world you have to beat them. Laos is no exception during high season and it’s well worth getting up and out before anyone else. Because of this, exotissimo have innovatively taken their original day trip to Kuang si Waterfalls and have simply made it early. this avoids the throngs of people that descend later in the day. their new tour starts with a sunrise visit to watch the saffron robed monks collect alms, followed by a breakfast picnic at Kuang si waterfalls. the meticulous timing means that you arrive at Kuang si at 8am as the gates open, and waiting for you on your private picnic bench is your smoked salmon bagel, fresh local coffee, and no one in sight. heavenly.

3. Get creative

Laos is becoming alive with artisans, foodies, and craftsmen and what better way to learn about Laos than to try your hand at something new. ock Pop tock (www.ockpoptock.com) offers the chance to meet craft artisans and take classes in silk weaving, natural dying, batik drawing and bamboo weaving. this all takes place at their Living Crafts Centre, only a 10-minute cycle from the centre of Luang Prabang.

If you want to learn more about the origins of these local methods then the traditional arts and ethnology Centre (www.taec.org) is a must. taeC creatively displays intricate traditional costumes and hand-woven fabrics. there is also a pleasingly priced shop, a rather atmospheric café, and for those who are really interested they can arrange private 1-hour talks as well. It’s a great way to gain knowledge of Laos’ diverse ethnic groups, and support them, without having to travel all over the country.

If cooking is more your thing, then tamarind (www.tamarindlaos.com), a modern Laos restaurant in Luang Prabang, is probably the place for you. here you can learn to recreate their tongue-tingling cuisine with a lakeside cookery class. Choose between full day and evening courses, depending on your schedule. at the end of it you come away with your very own book replete with mouth watering exotic recipes.

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4. Head to Champasak

When researching Laos, you’ll often hear Pakse mentioned, and this is often where most group tours will locate. It is therefore well worth venturing to Champasak, just a 40 minute drive away. this tiny colonial town is linear and almost charming, but it’s the accommodation in the area which make’s this region so special. La foile Lodge (www.lafolie-laos.com) on nearby Dong Deng Island offers a cosy lodge style atmosphere with private wooden bungalows, some overlooking the mekong. the pool, the food, and the cycling routes around this tiny island make La foile a truly unique stay. for those looking for a contemporary experience, look no further than the River Resort (www.theriverresortlaos.com). It’s crisp, glistening infinity pool overlooks the mekong and the spacious, sleek rooms offer comfort unparalleled by any other hotel in southern Laos.

5. Step back in time

Laos is steeped in history; it’s a spiritual pleasure with some of asia’s finest temples, so why stay in a newly built hotel? there’s a plethora of fabulous, affordable, and wonderfully quirky heritage hotels in Laos. By staying in them you are supporting the preservation of historical buildings (unfortunately many are still being pulled down in Laos). satri house (www.satrihouse.com) is one of Laos’ finest historical hotel options. once the residence of Prince sophanouvong, it is now an antique filled elegant retreat, with fanciful gardens and two gorgeous pools. other alluring options include maison souvannphoum, 3 Nagas and Villa santi in Luang Prabang, mandala Boutique hotel in Vientiane and if staying in Pakse, try Residence sisouk.

If just staying somewhere historic is not enough why not swap an ordinary guided tour for a walk with francis engleman in Luang Prabang. he has been researching ancient sites in Laos for more than 20 years and it is thanks to his studies and deep knowledge of Lao culture and it’s colonial past that Luang Prabang was made a uNesCo World heritage site in 1995. a tour with him does not come cheap, but it can be easily arranged through exotissimo, and is very much worth it if your interest in Laos’ past goes deeper than most.

5 ໄອ ເດຍທຽວລາວ1. ຂ ລດຖບລອງຫນມາໃຊລດຖບແທນລດປະເພດອນຊງທານຈະພບວາການທອງທຽວລາວນນມບນຍາກາດສດຊນ ສະດວກສະບາຍໃນອກຮບແບບໜງ ຕດຕ Vientiane Bycyclewww.vient ianebycycle.com ທ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ຫ ເ ອກໂຊຕ ສໂມ(www.exotissimo.com)ທຫວງພະບາງ.

2. ຕນ ແຕ ເຊາເດນທາງໄປທຽວຊມນາຕກກວາງຊແຕເລມຮງອາລນທານຈະໄດຈບຈອງບອນນງໃນມມດໆ ທສາມາດຊມຄວາມສວຍງາມຂອງນາຕກໄດຢາງເຕມຕາພອມກບຄວາມແຊບຊອຍຂອງຊດອາຫານປກນກທກະກຽມມາ.

3. ທຽວ ແບບຮຽນຮລອງເຂາໄປຮຽນວທການຕາຜາຫຍອມຜາກບອອກພບຕກ(www.ockpoptock.com)ທເມອງຫວງພະບາງຫໄປຢຽມຊມພພທະພນຊນເຜາ(www.taec.org)ຫຮຽນວທປງແຕງອາຫານທຮານອາຫານທາມາລນ(www.tamarindlaos.com)

4. ໄປ ທຽວຈາປາ ສກກນ ເທາະ !ພກຜອນຢອນອາລມໄປກບການເພດເພນທດອນແດງລາໂຟລສອດ(www.lafolie-laos.com) ເປນບງກະໂລໄມທແສນສະດວກສະບາຍໃຫນອນຊມແມນາຂອງໃນມມສວຍງາມຫລອງໄປສາຜດກບຄວາມທນສະໄໝທເດຣເວຣສອດ(www.theriverresortlaos.com)ຫ ເພດເພນກບການລອຍນາ ໃນສະລອຍນາແບບອນຟນຕທເໜອນເປນສວນໜງຂອງແມນາຂອງ.

5. ຫາ ທ ພກ ແບບ ຫວນ ຄນ ອະດດ ກນ ດກ ວາ !ປະເທດລາວມໂຮງແຮມທພກສວຍງາມເຊງສາງຈາກວງເດມເພອໃຫແຂກທເຂາມາພກໄດສາ ຜດບນຍາກາດຢອນຍກເຊນສະຕເຮາສ (www.satrihouse.com)ທຫວງພະບາງເຊງດດແປງຂນຈາກວງຂອງເຈາສພານວງ ໃຫເປນໂຮງແຮມຫຫາ-ສະຫງາງາມພອມສະລອຍນາສອງອາງແລະອທຍານສດຊນນອກຈາກນນທານອາດລອງໄປທໂຮງແຮມມາຊອງສວນນະພມທຣນາຄາວລລາສນຕສວນທນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນກຈະມແມນດາລາບຕກໂຮເຕລແລະໂຮງແຮມເຮສເດນສສສກທປາກເຊ.

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When hansana sisane quit Working With the government, he Was

determined to build his oWn textile museum to shoWcase lao silks to

the World. hoWever, he had no idea hoW to open it until he turned to

his father, Who suggested he look to lao national identity.

story : Phonesavanh Sangsomboun photo : Gaid Kornsilapa

on

dis

play

Hansana’s father was a well-known musician in Laos and when he was alive he told his son that “Lao culture has its own identity. If I wanted to establish a museum and make it outstanding and unique, I had to look for it,” Hansana says.

Gaining inspiration from his father, he travelled across the country to learn and collect silks and fabrics from various ethnic groups including the Phuan, Tai Dam, Tai Deng, Leu and Hmong people, who all own precious textile masterpieces.

Back then, it was a challenge because Lao silks were strongly influenced by neighbouring nations and some of the silks were assimilated within these. However, Hansana strived to become a silk-searching pioneer.

While he was collecting this cultural heritage from ethnic minorities, he learnt that in the past, people wore sashes, t-shirts and skirts (sin) that were made from silk, just to visit the temple and take part in other events. Silk was mainly worn by people like the master of ceremonies. As one aspect of national heritage, the silks came under threat and began to disappear after the country opened up to the world.

lao TexTile MuseuM:

a precious

pasTPreserving

40

When the doors of Laos swung open to tourism in 1990, many visitors flocked here to explore and learn about the country. Weavers then tried to supply silk products to tourists. At the same time, those from ethnic minorities struggled with poverty, forcing them to sell their valuable silks to whoever that could afford to buy. No doubt some of these most incredible and important silks leaked out of the country. Hansana then decided to buy many pieces from ethnic peoples, aiming to preserve and show them to the next generation. Apart from collection, he also learned how to build traditional houses made from wood as he wanted to construct these to restore his collections, which didn’t just include silk, but also handicraft, wood sculptures, rattan, copper, silver and pottery. “When the country opened, of course people wanted better accommodation. Therefore, they demolished their houses and sold the wood to rebuild in a contemporary style,” he says, adding that he also bought wood from them to use in his museum’s construction.

Because of the lack of funds, he gradually but steadily built his museum. Luckily, he got support from his close friends and foreigners who wanted to contribute in preserving Lao silk.

While the Lao Textile Museum was under construction, he opened his collections to close friends until 2003, when he officially showcased traditional weavings created by various ethnic groups to show visitors and Lao people. Now a privately owned museum, it has become well-known locally and globally, especially amongst students who can learn about Laos’ rich cultural past and the future. Besides that, Hansana also allows visitors worldwide to learn about the process of producing silk in his home. He believes this will not only share Lao culture with the world, but also keep it alive. Various designs and symbols are employed in the silk that now displays at the museum. One of those which people like

41

to weave is the design of the naga. “Naga is an imaginary animal that is bound with water and Lao culture. Every Lao New Year, Pi Mai naga is the animal that Lao people believe provides greater or less rainfall to people,” Hansana explains. Silks feature at the origin and the root of the country. When people want to find out about Laos, they can understand it through food, lifestyle and culture. However, the most important insight is the dress which can represent how Lao people live, their culture and their wisdom.

Hansana is confident that the path of the silk industry is moving in the right direction. Through some private sector investment, especially in Luang Prabang province, many museums and private galleries have been opened to preserve and promote this silk to the world.

Lao silks have become increasingly expensive, but it is not the most important aspect of this industry. For Hansana, what he displays in his museum is more meaningful and valuable for the younger generation as it helps them learn and understand their own truly unique culture from the simplest, but beautiful of materials.

Visit the MuseumLao Textile Museum151m Nongthatai Village, Chanthabouly district, VientianeTel: +856 (21) 560458, (21) 213467, (30) 5258293Open from 10am-4pm seven days a week

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lao

cu

isin

e

story : Michelle Luehman photo : Gaid Kornsilapa

The food of the Northern Hill Tribes

In the cool shade of the tradItIonal arts and ethnology centre’s

large open area sIts le patIo, luang prabang’s only ethnIc

restaurant, whIch features food from the northern hIghlands.

typIcally, lao food has two common seasonIngs – fIsh sauce and salt

– whIch typIfy recIpes developed by people wIth access to produce

from the sea or sea trade. northern lao, beIng Isolated by mountaIns,

lack access to the preservatIves and cookIng zest of these two

IngredIents and as a result developed theIr own dIstInctIve food.

Hard Life, Soft Palette

44

Highland tribes use ginger, pepper and cinnamon as seasoning. the recipes often replace fast wok based cooking with slow, low heat cooking. fermented bean paste replaces fish sauce and food can have no added seasoning. the slow cooking allows the flavours of the ingredients to blend and harmonise with a softer, slower palette as opposed to the immediate explosion of tastes we typically associate with lao food.

the brown or khaen pepper is much in demand and is a highly prized ingredient in france, providing the pepper taste without the heat. royal cinnamon is highly sought after by the gourmet and fragrance houses for its intense sweetness. young ginger is used and has a softer heat. the ginger is highly seasonal and preserved by steaming in sealed clay jars or bamboo lengths and can be stored for up to 12 months.

among the many enjoyable dishes we tried was the hmong pork belly, a soft and creamy texture of pork and greens. there are two ingredients: preserved pork belly and bok choy (chinese cabbage). to survive the seasonal changes and the food scarcity when meat is in abundance, the highland women would preserve the meat by boiling it in its own fat – think duck confit. the hmong are known for their soft and pale skin, and this is attributed to the fat content in the confit. the preserved meat is recooked with bok choy over a slow heat in a little water for many hours. when the bok choy has lost its fibre and is soft and blended with the fat and meat, it is prepared and served with absolutely no seasoning.

For us, simply take a nice piece of pork belly, remove the skin and some of the fat, leaving some fat for taste and consistency. (As we are boiling the fat, not frying or baking, there is a different nutritional and calorie value, and as meat and fat is scarce in the hill tribes, only small amounts are used). Softly simmer the meat in minimal water until the meat starts to fall apart. You can prepare the meat earlier, then refrigerate or freeze. Remember, no salt!

Now add the Bok Choy; the ratio should be about 4:1 Bok Choy to pork. Add a little water, leave to simmer for two hours on a very low heat until the Bok Choy has lost its texture, stirring occasionally. Cook with the lid off, adding water as necessary. Serve warm, not hot, and don’t serve with strong accompanying foods or you will miss the delicate deliciousness as it melts in your mouth. Many thanks to Yannick of L’Elephant, Luang Prabang for his knowledge and generous sharing. Le Patio is part of the L’Elephant group.

How to prepare

45

Viewing from the outside, it’s easy to admire the delicate grace of the strong french-colonial exterior, but its recent fusion with more modern architectural

elements belay the fact the restaurant’s housing has a story to tell.

story & photo : Ian Lacey

Where the World Meets

SAB

AID

EE T

AB

LE

15 Years & Going Strong

Khop Cha i Deu

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“i actually lived in this building since 1975,” says inthi deuansavan, the proud owner of Khop chai deu. “my parents were working for the government and the house was home to four different families at the one time.”

inthi says he’s still researching the history before his family took up residence in it. “i heard it used to be the old Indian Embassy or something, but I need to confirm that by looking into it some more.”

whatever its function, the space now provides one of the capital’s most popular atmospheres to unwind within and attracts locals as well as the ever-present tourist. the location is ideal too. on busy setthathirath road, every visitor to Vientiane will surely pass by at one point or another, and the open space outside, the upstairs balcony and cosy interior are ideal for grabbing a quick drink or a more substantial bite.

“the vibe is a very comfortable one. we work hard with our team to give a good service and i think that stays in the minds of people,” inthi remarks.

It was his vision that first set Khop Chai Deu apart from other restaurants in town. After quitting his job as a salesman, his options were to find different work or go it alone. The inspiration to explore the latter came from not only the uniqueness of the building, but also the tourists, who would regularly stop to take photos of its crumbling facade.

Year on year, work continues. After the first twelve months in business, the downstairs interior was renovated, while the next year saw the exterior revamped. and it was in 2012 that the third floor saw development. After each phase, the character evolved and its popularity further cemented.

the menu has seen some huge variations too. at the beginning, a Korean barbecue was all that was on offer. Slowly but surely, as the tourist numbers grew and locals began to adopt it as a place to meet and eat, the food options expanded. today, the choice includes indian and european to lao and thai dishes.

“we took on a menu with steak and spaghetti and other regional options because we wanted something for everyone. we also looked for more variety once lao customers were coming here along with tourists.” the live music gives it an edge too. it’s a welcoming, sociable place to hang out on week nights as much as the weekend, and although the faces change, enjoyment comes as standard.

Every five years a party kicks off to mark another half-decade milestone. And as the capital’s perennial favourite, it’s with good reason too. this year, many of the regular customers turned out to a night of music, food and drink and rubbed shoulders with some of the establishment’s best friends. aluna – the lao pop sensation – started her career as an mc here before making it big. alexandra too, a frequent patron and no stranger to the spotlight, came down to raise a glass and toast the success of Khop chai deu.

we can only hope for many more!

Khop Chai Deu setthathirath road, beside nam Phu fountain www.inthira.com

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SAB

AID

EE R

ELA

X

Kiridara Spastory Ian Lacey photo : Gaid Kornsilapa

While AWAy the DAy @

Tucked inside rusTic kiridara HoTel in luang Prabang is a Place wHere Times fades genTly away, THe mind resTs calmly, and an inimiTable relaxaTion

sPreads THrougHouT every cHannel of THe body.

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Kiridara Spa has long been recognised as a revitalising break away from an already serene Luang Prabang. The spa adopts time-honoured traditions of Lao culture to provide a wide range of holistic and beneficial health treatments which are not limited to the immediate experience, but last far longer, to help balance the body, mind and spirit.

The expert team have years of combined knowledge of the best and most appropriate treatments for their clients, meaning you will only receive the best possible attention and expertise.

The treatments are thoughtfully created to bring about a first-class level of relaxation. To top it off, you will also be presented with spectacular views over Luang Prabang and the green, natural environment which surrounds it. Indeed, the spa uses locally sourced products to enhance the experience and you can rest assured their application is doing the purest of wonders for your body.

Try some of their full body or foot massages, or herbal steam bath and wrap. Their signature treatment – the Nuat Bouhan Massage – which lasts 90 minutes, fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. Beginning with sound healing, this full-body treatment is performed without oil and is perfect for the guest to nourish the skin, relieve the muscles and taper the mind away from external stresses.

Kiridara Spa 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, Luang PrabangTel: +856 71 261888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara

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The NighT MarkeT iN LuaNg PrabaNg is exTreMeLy weLL-kNowN, buT a cLoser Look

highLighTs soMe of The cuLTuraL aNd PersoNaL sTories behiNd The arTwork. The NexT TiMe you Pass by, or if iT’s your firsT

visiT, ask abouT The creaTiviTy ThaT Lies wiThiN The Pieces you’re MosT iNTeresTed iN. here, we Look aT Three PoPuLar iTeMs.

LAO

SO

UVE

NIR

Treasures of The

Night Market

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51

TREE Of LIfEthe rear gable of the chapel in Wat Xieng thong in Luang Prabang is decorated with a richly-coloured glass mosaic of the tree of Life. an immediate impression is made when paying a visit, and at the market, some striking artwork recreates the famous Wat design.

RIcE-pApER NOTEbOOkSit’d be impossible to move through the market without laying eyes on rice-paper notebooks. these are made from various parts of the rice plant which are cooked, flattened and then pulled apart lengthwise to produce a durable writing surface. the many images painted onto the cover mean a memorable souvenir for those at home.

pOp-Up cARdS ANd TEAhmong her and his brother have two stalls at the market and within them sit ginger and lemongrass teas, as well as mulberry paper pop-up postcards which feature familiar Lao monuments and Luang Prabang’s most enigmatic attractions. they create new versions every day before showcasing on the streets when the sun sets.

The market lines Sisavangvong Rd nightly from 5.30pm-10pm.

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A Stylish Budget AccommodationOption in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDRTel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933www.tropicaloasispark.com

For reservations, please contact:

CLO

SE T

O H

OM

E

Story & photo : Ian Lacey

Hanoi72H o u r s i n

While just safely crossing the road may be the greatest challenge you’ll face in Hanoi, enjoyment certainly won’t meet any obstacles. A city pumping with noise – from the honk of the ubiquitous motorcycle, to the thread-spinning of roadside tailors – Vietnam’s capital is all about action.

The Old Quarter, where most visitors spend their time, serves up some fine examples of alluring, centuries-old architecture and is gracefully mixed with the requisite

cafés and eateries allowing a cool down from the midday sun, or escape from the two-wheeled clamour.

For most, the Old Quarter will be home for a stay in Hanoi. The area centres around Hoan Kiem Lake, a water body steeped in the legend of a golden tortoise who returned a magical sword to its divine owners after it helped drive the Chinese from Vietnam in the 15th century. The pedestrian pathway around it is shaded by horizontally-inclined trees and the island in the middle – reached by footbridge – has a quaint temple.

Although the city suffers from a lack of green space, many streets exude a gentile French colonial character through an abundance of large, leafy vegetation which overhangs industrious pavement-based businessmen and women.

The Temple of Literature, two kilometres from the centre, is one of the most impressive sites in the city. Its cloistered compound was built in 1076 on the orders of King Ly Nhan Tong to educate the most talented and honourable Confucian scholars to lead the nation. The Chinese-influenced architecture, stone stelae and the Well of Heavenly Clarity are in fantastic contrast to the grey, unattractive buildings which loom over it on all four sides. Make sure a have a bite to eat at four-storied KOTO on Van Mieu road outside the temple. It’s a vocational training restaurant and serves some of the finest food in the city from the friendliest of staff.

54

You’re likely to find all sorts

of unidentifiable street-food in Hanoi but the joy can be in the mystery if your Vietnamese lets you down

Hanoi can’t be visited without a trip to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The revered leader was embalmed despite his wish to be cremated and this site plays host to the unofficial pilgrimage of many Vietnamese. The greater complex also contains a museum and Ho Chi Minh’s stilt house. The mausoleum is closed on Fridays and the rest of the week it can only be accessed early morning from 8am-11am.

Perhaps the most productive activity one can do in the Old Quarter is to get lost. The maze of backstreets that link the busier thoroughfares, which themselves are reasonably tight, entertain a host of interesting and intriguing city personalities. Women carrying baskets of vegetables, men playing Chinese chess and children chasing unperturbed chickens exist side by side with the neck-craned tourist, Lonely Planet in hand.

For a glimpse into a 100-year-old home, take a look inside the Memorial House at 82 Ma May. Although every room is stocked with souvenirs, to see the layout is worthwhile – wooden beams, chipped yellow paint and rickety floorboards a historical refuge from the modernity outside.

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If museums are your thing, then Hanoi is bound to impress. The excellent Women’s Museum is a tribute to women the length and breadth of the country and from videos of their wartime activities to glass cases exhibiting ethnic dress, jewellery and house wares, it offers a more dedicated insight into aspects of rural life. The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology showcases everyday objects from its ethnic peoples and a combination of both will educate those intending to visit the high northern mountains or roads less travelled, where the displays come to life.

You’re likely to find all sorts of unidentifiable street-food in Hanoi but the joy can be in the mystery if your Vietnamese lets you down, or culinary adventure is on the cards. Pho, the noodle soup of international recognition, should be tasted in its home. Besides that, you’ll see plenty of women pushing carts with baked goods, while others barbecue meat on the footpaths. However, if it’s the confines of a cosy restaurant you want, there are plenty right along Ma May, Hang Bo and Ly Quoc Su roads. Italian or French, Vegetarian or Steakhouse – Hanoi has the lot.

As for nightlife, the place is jumping. The area around Ta Hien road is the backpacker base and will be top of the list for those wishing to party through the night. However, due to strict police enforcement, doing that will be tough. Expect 1-2am closing.

Three days is ideal to explore the capital and getting around is done easiest on foot. Some sights are best visited in a metered taxi (some meters running faster than others) but all are close to the Old Quarter.

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Map Of Laos5858

In the July-August edition – in celebration of Laos winning World’s Best Tourist Destination 2013 – we asked you to send in your photos of the country that showcased its authentic beauty and life, in whatever form that may be.

We’re delighted to announce that the winners of the competition were Sharon Smith, Julia Jane and Cindy Fan. Congratulations to them! They’ll receive an accommodation voucher for Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, a dining voucher for Xayoh Grill House, Vientiane, and a massage in Dhammada Massage Luang Prabang respectively.

This month, in anticipation of ‘La Procession’ Half-Marathon in Luang Prabang which will take place on October 5th, we want you to tell us the best ways (or your stories) to get fit in the outdoors of Laos. Post your stories to our Facebook page or email to editor@sabaidee-magazine.com Evergone who enters will be placed in a hat and 3 winners chosen for this great prize. >>

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