K JDUEKA Pictorffl Technical Guide

Fo mallholders

CIRAD-CP

R UBBERA Pictorial Technical Guide

For Smallholders

b y M i c h e l A. Delabarreand Dante A. Benigno

This édition is published by

CIRAD, département des Cultures Pérennes (CIRAD-CP)Service Information et Communication2477, avenue du Val de MontferrandBP503534032 MONTPELLIER CEDEX 1FRANCE

Originally published in Indonesia under the title:Budidaya Tanaman KaretPetunjuk Tehnik Praktis Bagi Petaniby Michel A. Delabarre and Dante A. Benigno

Ail rights reserved. Exceptfor Indonesia, no part of thisbook may be reproduced in any form or by any means without

permission in writing from the publisher.

Copyright, text and illustrations CIRAD, 1994ISBN 2-87614-148-5

Printed in Thailandby Amarin Printing and Publishing

Introduction

Thisfully-illustrated rubbertechnology book isthe English translation of thebookedited in 1990 which has been developed for the smallholder rubber farmer inIndonesia, who would like to acquire the proper technology for rubber production,thereby increasing the yield and tappable years of his trees, increasing hisincome, and jmproving his family lifestyle.

This book présents in sequential order ail the activities required for the establish-ment and maintenance of a rubber plantation. It is divided into several chapterswith 68 plates and more than 400 figures, each of which illustrâtes anddescribes in détail, in simple language, how to perform the task required.

If the step by step procédures, illustrated by the photographs, diagrams anddrawings, are strictly followed by the smallholder farmer, the authors guaranteethat his plants wi l l be up to standard and that he wil l not fail to reward of hisefforts.

Acknowledgement

This book would not hâve materialized without the help of several people towhom we owe so much for their invaluable comments, criticisms andrecommendations during its préparation. We would particularly like to thank thefollowing:

Dr. Carsalade Henri, previous Director of CIRAD (Centre de CoopérationInternationale en Recherche Agronomique pour le Développement) who pro-vided funds for the printing o f this book, Dr. Weil Alain, previous Director ofCIRAD - CP, (Centre de Coopération Internationale en Recherche Agronomiquepourle Développement, département des Cultures Pérennes) Dr. Meunier Jacques,Director Scientifique of CIRAD - CP and Mr. Gêner Paul, Director of CIRAD-CP programs who contributed greatly to the préparation of this book.

Dr. Ir. Rachmat Soebiapradja, Director General of Estâtes, Ir. SoetardjoSoewarno, Director BRPT, Mr. Syamsul Arifin, Project Manager of SRDP(Smallholder Rubber Development Project), and Ir. Imran Ma'aroef, ProjectManager of SCDP (Smallholder Coconut Development Project), ail o f the Minis-try o f Agriculture, Republic of Indonesia, who financed the authors trips to theProject areas and provided guidance, encouragement, criticism and suggestionsfor the improvement of this book.

Dr. Ir. Basuki, Director Pusat Penelitian Perkebunan, Sungei Putih andDr. Ir. Sultoni Arifin, previous Director Balai Penelitian Perkebunan, Sembawa,Republic of Indonesia for providing access to their research stations for materialsrequired in the préparation of this book, particularly on the différent rubber clones.The authors would like thank also Mr. Raymond Bourgoing of CIRAD - CPwho kindly allowed the printing of his photographs for Plates 8.4 and 8.5, ( theabsence of thèse plates would hâve made this book incomplète ).

Authors

DANTE RUMUALDO A. BENIGNO obtained his Bachelor of Science degreein Agriculture, major in Agronomy, from the University of Southern Mindanao,Philippines in 1959. In 1963 he obtained his Master of Science degree, majorin Plant Pathology, from the University o f the Philippines at Los Banos and in1971 his Doctor of Philosophy degree, major in Plant Virology, from the Univer-sity of Wales in the United Kingdom. Dr. Benigno was an Associate Professorof Plant Pathology and Chairman of the Department of Plant Pathology, Collègeof Agriculture, University of the Philippines at Los Banos before joining theSmallholder Coconut Development Project in Indonesia as the Crop ProtectionSpecialist. He was also recently appointed as the Training and ExtensionAdvisor for this Project. In 1986 he published An Illustrated Colored Handbookon Coconut Pests and Diseases (in Indonesian), which served as the field manualfor the extension workers and farmer participants of SCDP. In 1991, he editedCOCONUT, A Pictorial Technical Guide for Smallholders, written by RaymondBourgoing o f IRHO/CIRAD, the format o f which was based on his book on coconutpests and diseases. This book on rubber follows the same format as the coconuthandbook.

MICHEL ABEL DELABARRE obtained his diploma in Agronomy from the AgronomyHigh School of Nogent-sur-Marne (ESAAT) France in 1962. After graduationhe joined the Rubber Research Institute (IRCA) as a Pathologist. He continuedhis studies at the University of Abidjan (Ivory Coast) where he obtained his Doctorof Philosophy degree in 1977. During this time he was also involved in rubberresearch in Colombia, South America and served as a consultant with INCORA(Institute Nacional por la Reforma Agraria) in 1967. He has served on missionsconducting studies on rubber crop protection in various countries includingLibéria, Cameroon, and Brazil for about 25 years. From 1971 until 1983 hewas involved in Agropharmacology, establishing, supervising and managing fouragropharmaceutical experiment stations in Africa, Taiwan and the Philippines.In 1985 he was assigned by IRCA to Indonesia as a consultant to Balai PerkebunanPenelitian, Sembawa (Rubber Research Institute). He then joined the SmallholderRubber Development Project o f the Directorat General o f Estâtes, Ministryof Agriculture, and served as the Rubber Production Adviser for the Project from1986 until mid-1992.

PréfaceThe work of a rubber grower is similar to that of other farmers, albeit on a différenttime scale: he has to choose a technical procédure, i.e. a logical and orderedséquence of opérations that enables him to reach the targets he has set himself.This implies:

• that he has a full command of ail the techniques used in rubbercultivation,

• that he has at his disposai ail the éléments he needs to choose theappropriate techniques in his particular context.

Mastery o f techniques is a matter of apprenticeship and individual skill, but haslittle to do with the cropping context. A technique is acquired once and for ail andthe only challenge is an apprenticeship in new techniques, to complète the rangeof possibilités.

Choosing a technical procédure is much more complicated and dépends onchangeable phenomena in both space and time, linked to the environment andsocio-economic constraints. Adapting techniques to environmental variations ismore a matter of expérience than an apprenticeship in the solutions to be applied.No situation is identical to the next and successive choices are linked to each other.

While it is relatively easy to transfer well-mastered technical know-how, attempt-ing an exhaustive analysis of ail the uses to which it can be put is a much moredélicate^ issue.It is in this context that this book has been written. It is drawn from the authorsexpérience in rubber development projects in Indonesia and is intended forsmallholders and supervisors.This is a practical guide, designed to provide immédiate concrète and simpleanswers to the daily problems encountered by growers when implementing atechnique. The authors hâve therefore opted for a visual approach, with illustra-tions to back up the text.It is not a teaching manual, or an analytical work on rubber cultivation techniques.Neither has it been designed as a decision-making tool.The techniques described were derived from the know-how acquired by theauthors in many Asian, African and Latin American countries. They can be dividedinto three catégories:

• Some are universal and largely independent of the environment (such asbudgrafting).

• Others are more particularly adapted to the Indonesian conditions thatinspired this book (clone and fertilizer recommendations); the informationrequired to transfer them to other contexts is of course given.

• The final category contains techniques whose use wi l l dépend on thesituation in hand (such as Imperata cylindrica control).

Innovation also cornes from practice. If any of the techniques described can beimproved, let us hope that they wil l be, by a grower who first came across them inthis book. What better tribute could the authors wish for?

Hubert Omont

Head, CIRAD-CP Rubber Programme

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

AUTHORS

PREFACE

SOIE SUITABILITY

9

LAND CLEARING AND PREPARATION

15

NURSERY PREPARATION AND MANAGEMENT

31

BUDWOOD GARDEN PREPARATION AND MANAGEMENT

53

BUDDING

61

BUDDED STUMP PREPARATION

71

PLANTING

79

FIELD MAINTENANCE

87

TAPPING, PROCESSING, MARKETING

117

IDENTIFYING CLONES

141

ANNEXES

Chapter 1SOIL SUITABILITY

1.1 Determining soil layers1.2 Determining soil texture

PLATE 1.1

DETERMINING SOIL LAYERS

You can détermine soil layers using a soil auger or by digging. On flat land, takeone sample per hectare, preferably from the center of the field. In undulating orsloping (up to 40%) areas, take three samples per hectare - one from each of thehighest, mid and lowest points of the field.

1. Two common types of soil auger: FAO-type (1 a) and screw-type (1 b).

2. Bore a holeto a depth o f 120 cm, bringing up a soil sample every 10 cm. Lay thesamples on the ground in séquence as shown below:

3. In the absence of a soil auger, you can dig a hole, 2 x 1 x 1.5 meters (refer toAnnex 1, page 1, to make the pedo-unit)

4. Record the characteristics of the différent soil layers on Form 1 (Annex 1,page 2). Refer to Table 1 (Annex 1, pages 3, 4, 5 and 6) for a detailed description ofsoil characteristics.

REMARKS: Areas not suitable for rubber production:

a. > 40% slope

b. Peat soils

c. Flooded areas which cannot be drainedd. White, black or bluish colored soils

e. Soil with a hard pan, or a compact gravel/stone layer at adepth of 50-1 10 cm

10

1 Photos &Text bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

L Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGN'

PLATE 1.2

DETERMINING SOIL TEXTURE

Soil texture is determined by the sizes and proportions in which the small mineraiparticles - sand, silt, loam and clay - are présent. Obtain three soil samples(spoonful size) from (1) topsoil (0-20 cm), (2) subsoii (40-50 cm) and (3) lowersubsoil (80-1 00 cm) and roll each sample separately between your palms or on ahard flat surface. If the soil istoo dry, making it hard and diff icultto roll, moisten ita little to facilitate rolling.

1. A soil is considered sandy if particles run through your fingers forming a cône orpyramid shape.

2. A soil is considered sandy-loam if it feels gritty between your fingers anddoes not stick to them. It can just be molded to form a bail (about 2 cm diameter)but cannot be rolled into a sausage shape . A sandy-loam soil contains about 50 to70% sand, 15 to 20% clay and 10 to 30% silt.

3. A soil is considered loamy if it is slightly gritty, sticks a little to the fingers andwil l roll into a sausage shape which breaks up easily at diameters less than 2 mmor lengths smaller than 6 cm. This soil contains about 50% sand, 25 to 50% silt and7 to 25% clay.

4. A soil is considered silt-loam if it is hard when dry and sticky when wet and rollsinto a sausage shape readily without breaking easily at diameters less than 2 mmdiameter or lengths greater than 10 cm. This soil contains about 50% or more siltand 12 to 27% clay.

5. A soil is considered sandy-clay-loam i f i t feels slightly gritty to the touch whendry and is readily formed into a sausage shape which can be bent to form a half-ring with small cracks on the surface. The sausage shape breaks up if the diameterof the rolled soil is less than 2 mm. This soil contains about 45% sand, 25% silt and20 to 35% clay.

6. A soil is considered silty-clay-loam if it feels smooth to the touch when dry andis readily formed into a sausage shape which can bebenttoform a hal f toafu l l ringwith large cracks on the surface. This soil contains about 27 to 40% clay and lessthan 20% sand.

7. A soil is considered clayey if it is very hard when dry and very sticky when wetand can be readily rolled into a sausage shape which can be bent to form a ringwithout large cracks on the surface. This soil contains about 20% sand, 20% siltand 60% clay.

REMARKS: Refer to Annex 1, page 6, for illustrations.

13

Chapter 2LAND CLEARING A N D PREPARATION

2.1 Clearing secondary forest2.2 Felling and poisoning forest trees correctly2.3 Second burning, marking out planting rows and stump

removal2.4 Construction of terraces2.5 Fencing2.6 Preparing herbicide solution for spraying Imperata

cylindrica.2.7 Sprayer calibration for spraying Imperata cylindrica

15

PLATE 2.1

CLEARING SECONDARY FOREST

Undertake clearing o f secondary forest two months before the end of the rainyseason, and burning at the beginning of the dry season.

1. Secondary forest occurs where shrubs (bushes) and large trees grow side by side.

2. To clear secondary forest, first eut the shrubs as closely to the ground as possibleusing a jungle knife.

3. After the shrubs hâve been eut, fell the large trees using a chainsaw, axe orjungle knife.

4. Separate and collect ail long trunks and branches, removing ail side branches.Thèse wi l l serve as your stakes (pôles) for marking and laying out planting rows.

5. Leave ail eut shrubs and trees to dry in the sun for about 3 weeks.

6. Burn ail leaves and discarded stems and branches.

REMARKS:

When setting fire, be sure that workers are moving against the wind(Refer below for illustration).

Layout for burning

16

L Photos & Toxt bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

17

'-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO —

18

PLATE 2.2

FELLING A N D POISONING FOREST TREES CORRECTLY

1. Fell small trees (25 cm trunk diameter) about 60 cm above the ground using ajungle knife or axe.

2. As soon as the tree is felled, scarify the bark of the stump.

3-4. Apply Triclopir (Garlon® 480 E.C. at 5% solution) to the scarified area.

5. Fell large trees (>25 cm stem diameter) using a chainsaw. First make a deephorizontal eut, almost halfway through the trunk, about a meter above groundlevel. Make a second eut, a few inches above and at a 45 angle to the first, to meetthe far end of the first eut.

6. Remove the wedge-shaped pièce of wood resulting from thèse cuts. Note theangle of the eut.

7. From the opposite side, make another horizontal eut to meet the first. The treewi l l fall in the direction of the first eut.

19

PLATE 2.3

SECOND BURNING, MARKING OUT PLANTING ROWSand STUMP REMOVAL.

1. A cleared secondary forest area after the first burning. Note how ail dried leavesand twigs hâve been completely burnt, but not the stumps and larger branches andstems.

2. Collect ail unburnt branches and stems. Stack them about a meter high and burna second time.

3. Mark out the area according to the desired spacing density, i.e. 505 treesper hectare in a 4.50 by 4.40 m isosceles triangle configuration which provides thebest girth.

4. As soon as the planting rows are marked, remove ail stumps remaining withinthe planting rows.

5. Make sure that the main and latéral roots are removed to eliminate possiblesources of root infection (Fomes).

REMARKS:

Ail stumps outside the planting rows, i.e. between rows, should beremoved within the first year o f planting to facilitate inter- cropping orcover-cropping and to reduce possible sources of root disease infection. Usethe 3, 4, 5 method to mark out the planting area. See below for illustration.

20

- Photos «t Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

21

-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 2 .4

CONSTRUCTION OF TERRACES

1. From the highest point of the field, measure the percentage of slope in threedirections using a 2 m stick. Lay the stick horizontally and use a half filled bottle ofwater to détermine i f the stick is level.

2. Measure the height of the stick from the ground and calculate the percentageslope. Where the height is 40 cm, the percentage slope is calculated at:

4 0 c m x 1 0 0 / 2 0 0 = 20%

Mark the measurement position with a vertical stake and repeat the process to thelowest part of the slope. Détermine the average slope gradient and stake it from thehighest point to the lowest part of the field.

3. As the gradient of the slope has been measured with a 2 m stick, there wil l bea stake every 2 meters. Starting from the top and from the first stake, remove the2 following stakes, leave the fourth, remove the following 2, leave the seventh andso on. The remaining stakes wil l mark the future row positions.

4. To make terraces, use an A frame, the legs of which must be 2 meters apart.Starting from the highest point of the field, position the A frame so that onefoot is at the top of the field, the other is moved up or down until the plumbline falls exactly in the center of the A frame (which means that the second legis at the same horizontal level). Place a stick to mark the position of thissecond leg, then turn the A frame by moving the first leg up or down the slopeuntil horizontal level is found again. Mark the position of the first leg andrepeat the procédure until the whole area is pegged for the required terraces.

5. Note the position of the plumb line which falls exactly at the center of thetransverse brace of the A frame.

6. Note the pegs placed on the same level line. They indicate the place from whichthe terrace wi l l be constructed.

7. Note the terrace - the soil has been eut from the upper part o f the slope. Theterrace is constructed so that it forms a reverse slope o f about 10%.

8. A well-constructed 2 m wide terrace.

9. General view of a terraced area.

REMARKS:

Refer to Annex 2 pages 1 and 2 for illustrations.

23

PLATE 2.5

FENCING

1. Protect your plants from wi ld pigs, deer and other large animais by erecting afence around your field. Several kinds o f material can be used for fencing - barbedwire, tree branches, asphalt drums.

2. Fix the first barbed wire strand 5 cm above ground and the second about 15 cmabove the first (20 cm from the ground). Nail a wooden pôle between the twostrands.

3. Fix the third, fourth, and fifth barbed wires at 35 cm, 50 cm and 65 cm aboveground respectively. Nail wooden pôles between strands and fix wooden pôlesevery 15 cm above to hâve 10 wooden pôles and 5 barbed wire strands.

4. Fix an additional last wooden pôle about 1.70 m from the ground .

5. Another type of fence (1 .50 m high) made by piling up tree branches.

6. Another type of fence (1 .50 m high) made from lengths o f eut tree trunks, erectedside by side.

7. Another type of fence made of barbed wire and flattened 200 liter drums.

REMARKS:

See below for illustration.

Fencing

24

"Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO"

25

"-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

26

PLATE 2.6

PREPARING HERBICIDE SOLUTION FOR SPRAYING IMPERATA SP.

1. Before commencing spraying, assemble the following required materials:

- knapsack, 15 I capacity- herbicide (Glyphosate)- graduated measuring cylinder- bucket

- blue nozzle- clean water

2. Measure the quantity of herbicide required per knapsack after sprayer calibra-tion (hère 100 ce), then mix with 5 liters of water.

3. Use the blue nozzle for spraying Imperata sp.

4. Pour the mixture into the knapsack and add water to make up 15 liters of spraysolution.

5. Place the knapsack on your back. To do this properly, cross your right arm overyour left, with your right arm holding the right strap and hose of the sprayer, andyour left arm holding the left strap.

6. Lift the knapsack over your head, rotating your right arm in the process, so thatyour left arm passes between the left strap and the knapsack. Your right arm wil lthen pass automatically under the right strap.

7. Pump the knapsack eight times before you begin spraying. Walk at normal speedand adjust the height o f the nozzle to the width of the strip to be sprayed by raisingor lowering your right wrist.

REMARKS:

Spraying should be done early in the morning or in late afternoon whenthere is no wihd.

27

PLATE 2.7

SPRAYER CALIBRATION FOR SPRAYING IMPERATA SP.

1. An area covered by Imperata sp. with a few shrubs.

2. Mark a 2 x 10 meter strip of Imperata to serve as an area for calibrating yourknapsack sprayer.

3. Pour 5 liters of clean water into the sprayer. Pump the sprayer 8 times to bringthe inside pressure to about 1 kg/cm2. Position the blue nozzle at the starting line ofthe strip.

4. Spray and pump continuously as you walk at normal pace along the strip. Makesure that the spray swathe covers the whole width (2 meters) of the strip byadjusting the height o f the nozzle by raising or lowering your wrist.

5. At the end of the strip (10 m), stop spraying, tum around and reposition thenozzle as you did atthe start. Spray and pump as you return. Repeatthe procédureuntil ail 5 liters of water hâve been sprayed.

6. Stop as soon as the knapsack is empty. Détermine how many linear meters youhâve walked by counting the number of times you travelled the strip. You can nowcalculate how many square meters of land you can cover with 15 liters of water orsolution per knapsack.

28

L Photos & Toxt by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

29

Chapter 3NURSERY PREPARATION AND MANAGEMENT

3.1 Préparation of nursery land using a tractor

3.2 Préparation of nursery land in sloping areas

3.3 Nursery layout on flat land

3.4 Constructing nursery seedbeds and shade

3.5 Sowing and sélection of germinated seeds

3.6 Planting germinated seeds in the nursery

3.7 Leaf diseases of seedlings

3.8 Controlling leaf disease in the nursery

3.9 Culling of seedlings

3.10 Fertilizer application in the nursery

31

PLATE 3.1

PREPARATION OF NURSERY LAND USING A TRACTOR

1. Well prepared nursery land, plowed and harrowed using a 75 HP wheel tractor.

2. A 75 HP wheel tractor with a four dise plow.

3. Close-up of the plow dises.

4. Notched-disc harrows. Note the double V alignment of the dises. This ensuresthat the soil is properly tilled while the weeds are being uprooted.

5. Note the dise diameter of the plow dise: 70 cm

6. Note the dise diameter o f the notched-disc harrow: 70 cm

7. Note the dise diameter of the smooth-disc harrow: 70 cm

REMARKS:

A fieid for nursery use should be plowed to a minimum depth of 50 cm.Otherwise, ifthere is notât least 4 0 c m to accommodate the taproot, i tw i l l becomebent or crooked, and the plant wi l l not be acceptable as a future budded stump.

32

1 Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

53

Photos &Text by M. DELA8ARRE & D. BENIGNO

34

PLATE 3.2

PREPARATION OF NURSERY LAND IN SLOPING AREAS

1. Using ropes, mark the outline of two strips of bed to be dug (a, b) following thecontour of the land. The beds should be 50 cm wide and of a suitable length witha 30 cm space between them.

2. One man starts digging from one end of the first bed (a) and a second startsdigging from the opposite end of the other bed (b) moving in opposite directions.

3. The men wil l first dig a 50 cm length to a depth of 25 cm piling the dug soiloutside of the bed i.e. behind them*.

4. The diggers wi l l then deepen the same hole a further 25 cm, making the totaldepth 50 cm, piling the dug soil outside the bed behind them*.

5. After this, the diggers move on and dig a further 50 cm to a depth o f 25 cm*.This time the dug soil is dropped into the previously dug hole. The diggers againdeepen the hole a further 25 cm*, dumping the soil into the previous hole to fill itcompletely. This procédure is followed until the whole length of the bed is dug.

6. When both beds hâve been dug, the hole remaining at the far end of each bedare filled using the soil taken from the first hole of the adjacent bed*.

7. A prepared bed ready to receive germinated seeds.

* Refer to Annex 3 for illustrations

35

PLATE 3.3

NURSERY LAYOUT O N FLAT LAND

1. A well-plowed and harrowed level field ready for marking out and sowing.

2. Along the widest portion of the blockorthe longest side of the field, align pegs to

form the first base line which will also be the first planting row. Measure and mark

off along a 12 meter rope, 3, 4 and 5 meter lengths and join the ends of the rope

to form a right-angled triangle. Lie the 3 meter side of the triangle along the base

line (a).

3. The 4 meter side lies at 90* to the 3 m side and indicates the direction of the

second base line (b).

4. Peg along the second base line (b).

5. From any point on the second base line, it is possible to place the 3, 4, 5 m rope

so that lines parallel to the first base line can be marked out as planting rows.

6. Note the layout of the nursery. Sowing is done in double rows with a between

row distance of 30 cm, a between plant distance of 25 cm and with 55 cm between

each set of double rows.

36

Photos & téxt by"M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

37

1 Photos & To>a by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

38

PLATE 3.4

CONSTRUCTING NURSERY SEEDBEDS A N D SHADE

1. Always set your seedbeds up on level ground. The beds should be one meterwide and the length may vary, but 10 meters is preferred. Edge the beds withbamboo pôles or wooden planks rising about 8-1 0 cm above the white sand andseeds to prevent their being washed away during watering.

2. Orient the seedbeds north south, if possible. Build a roof over the seedbed, thefront being 1.60 to 2.00 meters in height (facing) east and the rear 1.30 to 1.75meters in height (facing) west.

3. Use white river sand to a depth of 3 to 5 cm for germinating the seeds.

4. Seeds are usually delivered packed in a polybag inside a gunny sack.

5. Healthy seeds look fresh and shiny. The two seeds on the left show the opercule(micropyle) while the seed on the right shows the opposite side.

6. A cross-section of a healthy seed showing a white albumen indicating freshnessand good germination potential.

39

PLATE 3.5

SOWING AND SELECTION OF GERMINATED SEEDS

1. As soon as you receive the seeds use a pièce of wood to spread them evenly ontop of the seedbed in a single layer.

2. You can also spread the seeds and press them into the sand with the palm of yourhand.

3. Evenly spread and well-pressed seeds. Note how the seeds are placed side byside, not one on top of another.

4. When the seedbed is full, place bamboo or wooden slats across to support thegunny sacks used to cover the seeds. Do not allow the gunny sacks to corne intocontact with the seeds. Water the seedbed through the gunny sacks twice a day.Start checking for germinating seeds 4 days after planting and daily thereafter.

5. For transplanting purposes sélect germinated seeds showing only the whitepoint (star stage) as shown in the iower row. Discard those seeds with long roots asshown on the upper row.

6. Pick germinated seeds up carefully, ensuring that the main root is not broken,halved or injured. Place selected seeds in a plastic bucket or similar container, halffilled with water.

7. Cover the bucket with a gunny sack or cloth when transporting germinated seedsto the nursery for transplanting.

REMARKS:

a. Close the seedbed 21 days after sowing if seeds were freshly collected,or at 30 days if seeds were from cold storage

b. An identification panel, on which the following data must be recorded,should be placed at one end of each seedbed:

- No. of the seedbed- Nb. of sown seeds

- Sowing date- Seed origin

- Arrivai date- Nb. of germinated seeds removed per day from the beginning

of germination.

c. Refer to Annex.4 for germinated seed sélection.

40

-Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

41

PLATE 3.6

PLANTING GERMINATED SEEDS I N THE NURSERY

1. Selected germinated seeds floating in a bucket of water, transported from theseedbed to the nursery.

2. To make planting holes, prépare two wooden digging sticks, one 1.5 m long andthe other 15 cm. Sharpen one end of each stick.

3. Using the 1.5 m stick, make holes wide and deep enough to accommodatea germinated seed (about 3 cm wide and 2 cm deep).

4. When planting germinated seeds in groups, use a template and make theplanting holes with the shorter stick.

5. If a template is notavailable, a marked cable or rope can be used. Two men holdthe ends o f the cable or rope, another makes the planting holes and another doesthe sowing.

6. Hold the germinated seed between your forefinger and thumb and adjust thedepth of the hole by removingoraddingsoil sothat a small portion of the seed wil lprotrude.

7. Place the germinated seed gently in the planting hole so that the white pointfaces downwards.

8. When the germinated seed has been properly laid in the hole and gentlypressed into position, use your middle finger to push the soil around the seed tofill the hole.

9. Finish filling the hole and arrange the soil to cover the seed lightly.

43

PLATE 3.7

LEAF DISEASES OF SEEDLINGS

1. A seedling severely attacked by Anthracnose fungus (Colletotrichum sp);the leaves hâve fallen off, but the pétioles remain attached to the stem.

2. Close-up of Colletotrichum sp. attack on mature leaves. Note the ugly misshapenleaves with numerous small brown specks and some irregular brown-edged holes.

3. Colletotrichum sp. attack on young leaves. Note how thèse young leaves hâvedried up prematurely. They wi l l eventually falloff, leaving a skeleton-like whorl.

4. A plant infected by two fungi: Helminthosporium sp. (Birds' eye spot)and Colletotrichum sp.

5-6. Close-up of leaves attacked by Helminthosporium sp. Note the typicalcircular spots, 1.3 mm in diameter with a transparent center and narrow brownmargin, surrounded by a yellow halo merging into the green leaf tissue.

7. A typical attack of Corynespora sp. Note that the disease always initiallyappears on the secondary and tertiary vein, creating a fishbone-like appearance.

8. A mature leaf attacked by Corynespora sp. and Helminthosporium sp.

44

-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

415

"•Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

46

PLATE 3.8

CONTROLLING LEAF DISEASE IN THE NURSERY

1. A young plant severely attacked by Colletotrichum sp.

2. Materials required for spraying: bucket, sprayer, blue nozzle, fungicide, scales,clean water.

3. Weigh the required dosage of Dithane® M45 for a knapsack sprayer o f 15 Icapacity (50 g Dithane® per sprayer when seedlings hâve one or two whorls; 75 gDithane® per sprayer when seedlings hâve more than two whorls).

4. Pour the fungicide into a small bucket containing about 1 liter of water. Stircarefully until the product is dissolved.

5. Pour about 5 liters of clean water into the sprayer and add the mixture. (Notethat the sprayer is equipped with a filter). Stir again by shaking the sprayer gently.

6. Fill the sprayer to 15 liters.

7. Spray the solution systematically (block by block).

REMARKS:

a. For young seedlings (2 to 3 whorls), about 330 m2 are sprayed with15 liters of solution (30 knapsacks sprayer of 15 liters per ha or 450 litersof solution per ha).

b. For older seedlings (> 3 whorls) about 250 m2 are sprayed with 15liters of solution (40 knapsacks sprayer of 15 liters per ha or 600liters of solution per ha).

c. Refer to Annex 5 for diseases and chemical treatment in nurseries.

47

PLATE 3.9

CULLING OF SEEDLINGS

1. A healthy seedling growing vigorously one month after transplanting.The leaves are dark green and glossy.

2. Cull ail seedlings with genetic yellow leaves.

3. Remove the smaller stems of multi-stemmed seedlings by cutting them offat ground level, leaving only the larger stem to develop normally.

4. Cull ail seedlings with distorted stems.

REMARKS:

a. Two months after planting, cull ail plants with stems of less than 3 mmdiameter at 5 cm above ground level, measured using calipers or a template asillustrated below.

b. Four months after planting, cull ail plants with stems of less than 6 mmdiameter at 5 cm from ground level, measured using calipers or a templateas illustrated below.

c. You should not remove more than 20% of the existing stand at each cull.

Template tor measuring seedling in the nursery

48

I-Photos &Text by M.DE'LABARRE &0. BENIGNO-

49

-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 3.10

FERT1LIZER APPLICATION IN THE NURSERY

1. A 3 month old nursery, free of weeds and disease.

2. If labor is available, fertilize the nursery using groups of three or more personsper group. Make sure that each laborer fertilizes two rows at each pass.

3. A close-up o f two rows of seedlings with fertilizer spread thinly and evenlybetween rows (use this method for the third and following applications).

4. A close-up of seedlings with fertilizer applied around each seedling (ringapplication which is used for the first and second applications). Note that thefertilizer does not corne into contact with the stem.

REMARKS:

Standard fertilizer recommendation is given below:

1. Ground rootstock nursery (in grams per point).

Week after planting Rock phosphate Urea TSP MOP Kies

- 2 1,300 kg/ha -

4 * - 8.0 4.7 4.2

8 - 6.0 4.4 3.4

12 - 7.8 4.4 3.4

16 - 8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0

20 - 8.3 7.2 7.1

24 - 15.0 8.0 .6.5

28 - 15.3 8.3 5.0

2. Polybag nursery

Week Compound fertilizer Pellet fertilizer

after (15-15-6-4) (10-10-5-2)

planting g/plant unit/plant

4* 4 1 pellet

8 4

12 7

16 11

20 11

24 11 1 pellet

Do not apply before the first whorl matures

51

Chapter 4

BUDWOOD GARDEN PREPARATION AND MANAGEMENT

4.1 Management of a budwood nursery4.2 Budwood stick préparation4.3 Preparing and packing budwood sticks

53

PLATE 4.1

MANAGEMENT OF A BUDWOOD NURSERY

A budwood nursery contains about 8,000 planting points per ha. Budded stumpsfor budwood production are planted about 1 m apart. Each clone planted in abudwood nursery must be well identified and clearly separated from the others.

1. Bud development on a newly planted budded stump in a budwood nursery.

2. After 10 to 12 months eut the developed stem to 60 cm above ground level.

3. Immediately after cutting, apply a ready-mixed waterproof wound protectant(TB 192) to the eut.

4. Al low development o f 2 buds on the stem. When mature, harvest the twobudwood sticks by cutting back to 20 cm from the previous eut.

5. Al low development of 3 buds only. When mature, eut 3 budwood sticks15-20 cm from the previous eut.

6. A 5 year old budwood nursery. Note that each budwood tree has been managedto produce 3 stems (budwood sticks).

54

Photos 8cText bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

56

PLATE 4.2

B U D W O O D STICK PREPARATION

1. A portion of a budwood garden ready for harvesting brown budwood sticks.

2. Select a branch with mature leaves and a dormant terminal bud.

3-4. Ten days before harvesting the sticks, eut the leaves from the brown portionof the branch, leaving the pétioles attached to the branch.

5. Starting from the previous eut, measure 20 cm of the branch to be eut. Thts20 cm section wi l l remain on the budwood tree.

6. In the absence of a measuring device, you can measure this 20 cm length withyour fingers.

7. Harvest the budwood stick by cutting it with a saw at a 45 angle. The slantshould face the outside of the tree.

8. Paint the eut portion of the budwood tree with TB 192.

9. Regrowth of budwood trees.

57

PLATE 4.3

PREPARING AND PACKING BUDWOOD STICKS

A. Préparation of a budwood stick.

1. The day before cutting the budwood stick, paint the color code of the cloneon the stick about 5 cm above the proposed eut site. See remarks for therecommended color code for each clone. If paint is not available, write the nameof the clone on the stick. Remove the desired budwood stick from the budwoodtree using a saw to eut the stick about 20 cm from the previous eut. Cut to size(1 meter).

2-3. Dip both ends of the budstick in hot paraffin.

B. Packing.

4-5. If budwood sticks are to be transported for a period o f 2 - 3 days use bananabracts as packaging material. Use no more than 5 budwood sticks per bundle andtie the bracts tightly. Ensure that the ends of the sticks are also protected by bananabracts.

6. Budwood sticks can also be packed individually by wrapping the cut endswith Imperata or rubber leaves. Use this technique for short transportationdistances (one day duration) only. On each budwood stick write the name o f theclone.

7. Pack in wooden boxes for long distance transportation (more than 3 days). Placewood shavings in the box between sticks and between layers.

8. Water each layer as the box is filled. Nail the cover tightly onto the box.

REMARKS:

Recommended colors for each clone (in Indonesia)

GT1 BlueAV2037 YellowPR261 BlackBPM 1 GreenBPM24 WhitePR255 Red

PR 300 Black and WhitePR 303 Black and YellowRRIC 100 Yellow and RedTM 8 White and RedPB 260 Yellow and White

58

- Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

59

Chapter 5BUDDING

5.1 Preparing roostock for budding5.2 Preparing budslips for brown and green budding

5.3 Budslip insertion and tying5.4 Budding: opening and checking

61

PLATE 5.1

PREPARING ROOTSTOCK FOR BUDDING

1. Before you start, assemble the following materials: (from left)

- whetstone- budding knife- clean pièce of cotton cloth (not pictured)- transparent polythene bags:

* 1.5 - 2.0 cm wide x 0.08 - 0.1 mm thick for brown budding* 1.5 - 2.0 cm wide x 0.05 mm thick for green budding

2. Select suitable rootstock for budding. The picture shows a bud startingto develop. A few days later the top of the stock wi l l be in the so-called stage B(this is the stage at which a new leaf-story forms, when the leaflets in the new storyare still stiff, red-brown in color, and are pointing downward). At this point, thebark loosens most easily and the budding success is better. Following this, the leafbecomes the so-called stage C in which the leaflets become yellowish-green.During this stage, the chance for successful budding decreases.

3. Check the girth of the rootstock about 5 cm above the ground. Bud only thosewith a circumference of 5 to 7 cm (1 .6 to 2.2 cm diameter).

4. Clean the base of the plant to be budded.

5. Locate the height o f the lower margin of the future window, two finger widths(+/- 4 cm) from the ground.

6. Start the incision just above two finger widths from the ground. Make 2 parallelvertical incisions, 6 to 7 cm in length, covering about a third of the circumferenceofthe rootstock.

7. To open the window from below, make a cross cut at the base o f the incisions(4 cm or 2 finger widths from the ground). Pull the flap (bark) up (this method isused if budding occurs during the rainy season).

8-9. To open the window from above, make a cross cut at the top of the incisions10 cm from the ground (this method is used if budding occurs during the dryseason).

10. Pull the bark (flap) down to open the window.

62

-Photos &Text by M. OELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

63

I-Photos SText by M. DELABARRE 8, D. BENIGNO

64

PLATE 5.2

PREPARING BUDSLIPS FOR BROWN AND GREEN BUDDING

1. For budding, sélect only prominent budeyes from the budstick.

2. To insert the budslip into a rootstock with a window that opens from below(Plate 5.3, Fig.5), removethe budslip so that the budeye is furthest from your body:(see arrow).

- make two parallel incisions on either side of the budeye along thebudwood stick, about 0.8-1 .0 cm apart and 5-7 cm in length,

- starting from the upper part of the two parallel incisions, slice down-wards deeply enough to include a portion of the wood,

- cut across the parallel incisions about 2.-3 cm above the budeye,

- note how the left thumb (a) helps the right thumb push the knife throughthe wood, (of course, if the worker is left-handed the work would hâve been doneaccordingly),

- note that the cross cut made below the budeye is shaped like the base ofyour nail (b),

- note that the budeye is located above the scar (c)

3. To insert the budslip into a rootstock with a window that opens from the top(Plate 5.3, Fig. 1), removethe budslip so that the budeye is nearestyou (see arrow).

4. Select prominent budeyes on the green budstick.

5. Make two longitudinal incisions, 0.3 - 0.6 cm apart, on either side ofthe budeye.

6. Remove the budslip by the same method as used for brown budwood.

7-8. When the budslip (either brown or green) has been removed fromthe budwood, immediately and gently separate the thin sliver of wood fromthe bark. Note the position of the two major fingers of each hand. Note also thatthe budslip is handled by its upper portion.

9. Ensure that the budeye is not bent, bruised or damaged. Check that the budeye(a) is attached to the bark. The prominent white point on the bark (a) and the smallhole on the wood (b) must be visible.

REMARKS:

Refer to Annex 6 which shows a useful working box (can be used tostore budding materials, budslips and to sit on).

65

PLATE 5.3

BUDSLIP INSERTION and TYING

A. Window Opening From Above

1. Open the window and take hold of the budslip by its square cut end with thebudeye pointing towards your fingers. Cut away any excess length so that it fitssnugly into the window.

2. Close the window ensuring that the bark (flap) completely covers the budslip.

3. Tie the budslip to the cambium o f the seedling with plastic tape, ensuring thatthe flap completely covers the budslip.

4. Secure the tape with a half hitch.

B. Window Opening From Below

5. Hold the budslip by its square cut end with the budeye pointing away from yourfingers. Open the window and insert the upper end of the budslip under the bark(flap). Cut away any excess length so that it fits snugly into the window.

6. Close the window and secure the budslip by tying it with plastic tape spirallingupward, ensuring that the flap completely covers the budslip.

7. Secure the tape with a half hitch.

REMARKS:

For green budding (rootstock about 5 to 6 months old), two verticalincisions 10 cm long and 1 cm apart are made starting from a point about 3 cmabove soil level. The lower ends of thèse cuts are joined by a horizontal cut. Thestrip of bark is then pulled up and cut away on the upper part, leaving a shorttongue o f about 1 cm. Then, the upper end o f the prepared budpatch is gentlyinserted under the tongue and bound with clear polythene tape.

66

* - Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE S D. BENIGNO

67

T'hotos &Text by M. DELABARRÉ & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 5.4

B U D D I N G : Open ing and Checking

1. Remove the plastic tape two to three weeks after budslip insertion.

2-3. Expose the inserted budslip by pulling the flap down (or up), using the plasticprying end of the budding knife.

4. Verify that the budeye is above the scar. Prick the budslip at a point about 1 cmbelow the top of the bud patch with the tip of the knife blade.

5. Observe if latex oozes from the wound (see arrow).

6-7. You can also scrape the bark of the budslip at a similar position and observe ifthe tissue is still green (see arrow).

8. If the budslip produces latex when pricked, or shows green when scraped,budding has been successful. Mark the successfully budded plant by tying the usedplastic tape onto the stem about 40 cm above ground (see arrow).

69

Chapter 6B U D D E D STUMP PREPARATION

6.1 Pulling out, sélection and préparation of budded stumps

6.2 Packing budded stumps for transport

6.3 Planting a budded stump in a polybag

71

PLATE 6.1

PULLING OUT, SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF BUDDED

STUMPS

1. At any time after plants hâve been successfully budded and when needed,cut the stems back to about 60 cm above ground. Conduct this opération in awell-organized manner, block by block, placing the cut portion (top part) betweenthe sets of plant rows.

2. The Pulling Jack is used to pull out the budded stumps. Note the spécial designof this apparatus: the leg (a) measuring 45 cm, the handle (b) measuring 60 cmand the gripper (c). (Refer to Annex 7 page 1 for détails on the Pulling Jackapparatus).

3. Place the gripping mechanism o f the Pulling Jack around the budded .stumpand extract the stump from the ground.

4. Select only standard budded stumps, Le., those having long straight taproots (C).Ail others must be discarded because the root is either too short, twisted orunderdeveloped (Refer to Annex 7 page 2 for selecting good budded stumps).

5. A newly extracted budded stump. The tap root is long and straight.

6. Cut the taproot about 40 cm from the collar.

7. Cut off ail latéral roots as closely as possible to the taproot.

8. Cut the upper part o f the budded stump about 5 - 7 cm (or three finger widths)above the budpatch, the slant facing the opposite side o f the budpatch. Paint thecut section with TB 192.

72

-Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

73

"Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

74

PLATE 6.2

PACKING BUDDED STUMPS FOR TRANSPORT

1. A bundle o f budded stumps comprises twenty-f ive pièces, arrangedin three layers of 8, 8 and 9. For the first layer, lay down eight budded stumps,window facing up, on top of two 2 meter lengths of plastic tie. One tie should lieat collar level and the other about 5 cm from the root tips.

2. Place a wooden stick, 60 cm long, across the first layer just below the Windowsto separate the first and second layers. Arrange another eight budded stumpsover this stick, Windows facing down.

3. Place another wooden stick separator across this second layer just belowthe Windows, and arrange a further nine budded stumps over the stick, Windowsfacing down as in the second layer.

4. When the three layers are properly arranged, tie the roots tightly.

5. Secure the upper portions of the budded stumps by tying around the endsof the two 60 cm sticks separating the three layers.

6. For ease of carrying, make a handle by tying the first and second ties together.

7. Top-view of a properly bound bundle of twenty-five budded stump sectionsready for transport.

75

PLATE 6.3

PLANTING A BUDDED STUMP IN A POLYBAG

1-2. Using either large (40 x 25 cm) or small (40 x 14 cm) black polythenebags, make small holes (5 mm diameter) in the sides o f the bag and alarge hole (15 mm diameter) in the bottom where the tap root wil l penetrate.Reverse the polybag before planting.

3. Fill the polybag to a depth of about 10 cm with fine friable topsoil. Setthe budded stump in the middle and continue filling with topsoil mixed with 25 gof rock phosphate/polybag. Consolidate carefully.

4. Newly planted budded stumps in polybags arranged in double staggeredrows. Water the stumps regularly until ready for transplanting.

5. On the day o f transplanting, dig the budded stumps in their polybagsout o f the ground with a hoe until the polybag cornes free.

6. The main root wi l l hâve passed through the 15 mm diameter hole in the bottomof the polybag.

7. Lean the polybag to one side to facilitate cutting of the tap root with sharppruning shears or a knife.

8. A properly eut tap root.

9. Carefully lift and transport the budded stump in its polybag to the field andplace it near the planting hole.

REMARKS:

Large polybags (40 x 25 cm) are usually used for long term nurseries(6 to 12 months). Small polybags are used for shorter periods (< 6 months).In fact, it is good practice to provide smallholders with this kind of material(smali polybags) since either the plant isalready growing atdeliveryorfarmers canplant the bare root budded stumps once they receive them, allowing later plantingif the land is not yet ready at the delivery time.

76

Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIQNO

77

Chapter 7PLANTING

7.1 Planting a bare-root budded stump in the field

7.2 Planting a polybagged budded stump in the field

7.3 Planting a polybagged budded stump in the field (cont.)

79

PLATE 7.1

PLANTING A BARE-ROOT BUDDED STUMP IN THE FIELD

1. Dig a hole to plant the bare-root budded stump about 10 cm by side of a liningpeg (dig systematically on the same side of the pegs when walking along theplanting row). The hole should be 60 cm long, 30 cm wide and 50 cm deep at thecenter, with a half cartwheel profile. Pile the topsoil on one side of the hole and thesubsoil on the other.

2. At planting, mix 250 g rock phosphate into both the sub- and topsoil.

3. Correct the depth of the hole against the budded stump using crossed sticksto support the stump in the center of the hole. Ensure that the budeye facesnorth-east.

4. Half fill the hole with topsoil, then compress.

5. Check that the soil is well Consolidated by pulling gently on the budded stump.

6. Finish filling the hole, consolidating every 5 cm.

7. Make sure that the budpatch is a finger width above the soil level.

80

•Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D BENIGNO

'Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

82

PLATE 7.2

PLANTING A POLYBAGGED BUDDED STUMP IN THE

FIELD (part I)

1. Set out one polybagged budded stump at each planting hole, placing it near themound of subsoil.

2. Rest the plant gently against the mound.

3. Cut the bottom of the polybag with a sharp knife to expose the roots of theseedling.

4. Remove the bottom of the polybag.

5. Cut ail exposed twisted roots, especially the taproot.

6. Carefully place the seedling, still in its polybag, in the center o f the hole. Usinga sharp knife, make a slit from the bottom up to open the polybag.

83

PLATE 7.3

PLANTING A POLYBAGGED BUDDED STUMP IN THE

FIELD (part II)

7. Mix 250 g rock phosphate with the topsoil removed from the planting hole.

8. Fill the hole to a depth of 5 cm and then use a pièce of wood to press the soil

down around the stump. Do not press too close to the stump as latéral roots can be

damaged.

9. When the hole is completely filled, remove the plastic bag slowly.

10. Carefully press down the soil in the upper part of the hole around the stem with

a pièce of wood.

11. You may also use your feet.

12. Place the slit polybag on the planting stick to show that it was removed during

planting.

84

'Photos & Text bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

Chapter 8FIELD MAINTENANCE

8.1 Weeding young plants

8.2 Fertilizing young plants

8.3 Controlling LCC and Imperata cylindrica using a flatboard

8.4 Controlling LCC and Imperata cylindrica using a roller

8.5 Some LCC species

8.6 Propagating LCC through cuttings

8.7 Branch induction

8.8 Pruning

8.9 Indicators of root disease caused by Rigidoporus lignosus

(Fomes = White root disease) or Ganoderma pseudoferreum

(Red root disease)

8.1 0 Détection of root disease

8.1 1 Chemical treatment of root disease

8.12 Collar and branch diseases

8.1 3 Panel and leaf disease on mature trees

8.14 Measuring girth

87

PLATE 8.1

WEEDING Y O U N G PLANTS

1. Détermine the weed population o f each row, using a square template (70 cm x70 cm divided into 100 squares, (7 cm x 7 cm). To use the template, proceed asfollows:

- Mark 5 rows/ha in which measurements wil l be made. (Starting fromone corner o f the field, mark rows 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15.)

- Mark 5 trees/row (tree 3, 8, 13, 18 and 23)

- Détermine weed populations twice a month on two sides of the markedtrees

- Count ail squares with weeds, including those squares with only a smallamount of green végétation (each square counts for 1 %)

- Commence weeding when the percentageof occupied squares reaches60%.

2. If plants are less than one meter high, weed manually. Use a hoe to cultivate therow, removing ail weeds at the same time.

3. Trees taller than one meter can be weeded either manually or chemically alongthe rows.

4. If Imperata is taller than 30 to 40 cm, first cut it back and then spray withRound up® when it reaches 30 cm.

5. If the weeds présent in the rows are ordinary grass and other broadleaf weeds,spray Para-Col® or Gramoxone®.

REMARKS:

Refer to Annex 8 for illustration of the square template to measureweed populations and the weeding schedule.

88

"-Photos SText by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO —

L Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

90

PLATE 8.2

FERTILIZING YOUNG PLANTS

1. Measure the amount of fertilizer required per tree for the first application.(The first application is made when the first whorl is mature, with dark greenleaves).

2. Circle weed first (40 cm diameter), then disperse the fertilizer around the tree.

3. Cover the applied fertilizer with soil.

4. Measure the fertilizer required for the following application.

5-6. Circle weed (about 60 cm diameter) then disperse the fertilizer aroundthe tree. When dispersing is finished, cover the fertilizer with soil.

7. Strip weeding is required for three year old trees before fertilizer is applied.

8. Measure the amount of fertilizer required for three year old trees.

9. Disperse the fertilizer evenly on the planting row (1 .20 m to 1.50 m wide).

REMARKS:

Refer to Annex 9 for fertilizer recommendations.

91

PLATE 8.3

CONTROLLING LCC A N D IMPERATA CYLINDRICA

USING A FLATBOARD

1. A two year old plantation in which LCC (leguminous cover crop) is so welldeveloped that the rows are invaded. Also note that Imperata is growing among theLCC which is composed of Pueraria javanica, Centrosema pubescens andCalopogonium muconoides.

2. Along the rows, remove weeds by hoeing to a width of two meters.

3. In sloping areas, control Imperata with a flatboard. Press the flatboard over theLCC and Imperata firmly, bending the Imperata which wil l eventually becomecovered with new LCC growth.

4. A close-up of the use o f the 1.20 m long flatboard with a rope handle for easiermovement.

5. A well-maintained two year old contoured plantation.

92

Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

93

Photos & Text by R. Bourgoing

94

PLATE 8.4

CONTROLLING LCC AND IMPERATA CYLINDRICAUSING A ROLLER

1. Construct a roller using a gasoline drum (200 liters capacity) The followingmaterials are required:

- 1 cylindrical iron bar, 15 mm diameter and 110 cm in length, to serve asthe axle passing through the drum.

- 2 bearings with an external diameter of 60 mm, to be welded onto theends of the iron bar (axle) or directly onto the drum (see Figs. 2 and 3).

- 1 iron water pipe, 25 mm in diameter and 6 m long, to serve as a handle(see Fig. 5).

- 3 cylindrical iron bars, each 15 mm in diameter and 28 cm long, to serveas spokes to strengthen the mechanism (see Fig. 1).

1A. If bearings are not available, they can be replaced by a simple iron pipe,20 mm in diameter, welded to the drum (Fig.2) with spokes in an axial position.The lubricated axle can be inserted intothe pipe.

2-3. Note how the bearings are welded to the drum.

4. Fill the roller with water to a third full (about 60 - 70 liters) to provide enoughweight to press down Imperata and LCC and facilitate rolling of the drum.

5-7. Note how the drum roller is used. It can be pulled (5) or pushed (6 and 7) bythe farmer or drawn by a work animal if the handle is constructed as in Fig.6.

REMARKS:

a. Roll LCC and Imperata at two month intervais i f Imperata is growingsporadically; once a month if Imperata is strongly competing withLCC as shown in Fig. 6. Stop rolling during the dry months.

b. Once the field has been rolled properly, Imperata wi l l dry out. LCCwil l eventually spread to cover the whole field, thus inhibiting growthof Imperata.

c. When rubber trees shade the cover crop, Imperata may grow again:roll a t two month intervais.

d. Coconut trunks or other trees can also be used as rollers.

95

PLATE 8.5

SOME LCC SPECIES

1-1 a. A close-up of Pueraha javanica. Note the long thin pods, about 10 cm inlength, and the 2 mm dried seeds varying in color from greenish to dark brown(la), which can germinate 7 - 1 0 days after sowing. Pueraria is good againstImperata because of its large leaves, thick végétation and rapid growth. However, itis sensitive to long dry spells and not recommended for single planting.

2-2b. A close-up of Calopogonium mucunoides in its active végétative stage. Itproduces thin cover and does not grow as rapidly as Pueraria. It is susceptible tolong dry spells like Pueraria. It is also sensitive to weed compétition during its firstfew months of establishment and requires good soil and well-distributed rainfall tobecome well established. Note that the shape and color of the seeds (2b) aresimilarto those o f Pueraria, but are a little larger (3 mm) with coloration varying fromgreenish brown to light brown. The seeds germinate 7 to 10 days after sowing.

3-3c. A close-up o f Calopogonium caeruleum showing its characteristic dark greenieaves. Note the texture o f the leaves (smooth and shiny) in contrast with those ofPueraria and Calopogonium muconoides which are hairy. The seed which is quitelarge, 4 - 5 mm, and greenish brown to light brown in color (3c). Like Centrosemait is quite résistant to drought. Cattle do not find it appetizing.

4-4d. A close-up of Centrosema pubescens. Note the narrow, elongated light greenleaves and the brownish black 3 - 4 mm seeds (4d) which can germinate 3 - 4 daysafter sowing. Centrosema is résistant to drought, requiring less water than Puerariaor C. muconoides, and is very suitable for sandy soils. Because of its slow growthand thin végétation, i t cannot control Imperata on its own.

REMARKS:

a. When establishing LCC for the first time, it is better to mix the seedso f P.javanica, C. muconoides, and C. pubescens (1/3 of each species)than to sow them separately.

b. P. javanica cuttings can be used as planting material if seeds are notavailable.

c. C. caeruleum can be sown on its own but, is gênerai Iy propagated bycuttings (high cost of seeds).

d. Another good légume cover, which can be sown on its own, or mixedwith C. pubescens and C. muconoides, is Psophocarpus palustris whichis quite drought résistant.

e. On slopes greater than 20%, it is recommended that contour hedges bepianted with Vétiver grass ( Vetiveria zyzanoides ) to prevent érosion,but harvest is not permitted.

96

I - Photos & Text by R. Bourgoing-

97

f c Photos SText by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO"

98

PLATE 8.6

PROPAGATING LCC THROUGH CUTTINGS

1. Luxurient LCC development in a 2 year old plantation

2. Collect vine cuttings about 80 cm long.

3. Remove about 2/3 of each leaf.

4. Dig a trench, about 10 cm deep, where the cuttings wi l l be planted.

5. Place the cuttings in the trench and replace the soil, pressing down firmly.

6. Normal growth of LCC from cuttings.

99

PLATE 8.7

BRANCH INDUCTION

1. Certain clones are late to branch and tend to grow very tall during the firsttwo years. Because o f their smaller leaf area, such trees increase more slowlyin girth which, in turn, increase the immature period.

2. This 2 m tree has not not yet branched. Note that the last whorl is mature(dark green leaves).

3. The last whorl is mature and the terminal bud is dormant (see illustration below).The three criteria - height of 2.80 m, mature last whorl and dormancy o fthe terminal bud

- are essential when considering forcing the tree to branch.

4. Grasp about 6 to 10 upper leaves of the last whorl in one hand.

5. Cut the leaf blades off with a sharp knife, leaving the pétioles attached to thestem. Note that the whorl still has mature leaves left (about 5 to 8) to provide thenutrition required by the whorl.

6. About 2 weeks after cutting the leaves, young buds wi l l start to develop whilethe remaining pétioles dry up and turn yellow.

7. About 4 weeks after cutting the leaves. Shoots are developing very quicklyand almost ail the pétioles of the cut leaves hâve dropped off.

8. Note that the new shoots are now well-formed and the terminal bud is forminga new whorl.

Terminal bud at the idéal stage for transplanting o r for pruning to force branching.

100

- Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & 0. BENIGNO —

101

Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 8.8

PRUNING

1. Unwanted adventitious shoots may develop from the stock of budded stumps.(see arrow).

2. Cut off the non-budded shoot (seedling) with a sharp knife.

3. A shoot growing from the stock. The budded eye is not yet developed. This mayresuit in the death o f the bud eye, because ail growth energy is concentrated on theunwanted developing shoot. AH unwanted shoots must be cut off as soon as theyappear.

4. Cut off ail small latéral branches growing out o f the young stem.

5. Note this last whorl where latéral shoots are developing; the plant is not yet2.8 m tall.

6. Remove ail unwanted latéral shoots to concentrate the growth energy in theterminal bud from planting until the tree is about 2.80 m tall.

7. A well-maintained planted area. Note that ail stems are straight as a resuit oftimely pruning o f unwanted latéral shoots and branches.

103

PLATE 8.9

INDICATIONS OF ROOT DISEASE CAUSED BY

RIGIDOPORUS LIGNOSUS

AND GANODERMA PSEUDOFERREUM

1. Rubber plantations with root disease usually show open areas within the block.This picture shows open spaces where several trees hâve died.

2. Inside a rubber plantation, look for trees with dry twigs.

3-4. Look also for out of season flowering, discolored leaves,

5. and out of season fruit production.

REMARKS:

a. When you observe thèse signs, dig the soil around the base of the treeand look for évidence of white or red-brown mycelial threads of fungus on thelatéral and tap roots. Présence of mycelial threads is confirmation that the treeis infected with a root disease.

b. Expose the latéral and tap roots by digging a hole about 20 cm wide and40 cm deep. Remove ail soil clinging to the roots. Gently scrap roots showingmycelia and check the color of the internai tissue (wood). If brown, the rootmust be cut and burnt. If the tap root is infected (wood is brown colored), thetree and most o f its roots must be removed and burnt.

c. If tree is only contaminated (which means that the fungus is not yetinside the wood) apply fungicide as a préventive measure. Leave the treated rootsexposed to the air. Recommended inspection of neighbouring trees along the rowuntil a healthy tree is obtained.

d. If the fungicide is under ready-mixed paint form, make sure thatit is applied thoroughly to the lower part of the taproot and the latéral root axils.

e. Until now, Fomac 2® or Calixine CP® hâve been applied to theexposed/infected roots. New products like Bayfidan® (1) or Alto® (2) areavailable and easier to use (granular or liquid formulation).

104

•Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

105

1 Photos &Text bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

106

PLATE 8.10

DETECTION O F R O O T DISEASE

1-2. Collect LCC vines between the rows and wrap them tightly around the baseof the rubber tree so that the vines look like a collar about 10 cm thick fromground level.

3. After two weeks, remove the LCC vines to discover i f there are whitemycelia growing and moving up the rubber tree. If présent, dig gently alongthe taproot to check weither the tree is infected or on ly contaminated.If infected (brown wood under the bark) mark the tree with a jungle knifefor future él iminat ion; i f only contaminated mark the tree for chemicaltreatment. Repeat this checking procédure every 6 months.

4. Fructification o f Rigidoporus lignosus (Fomes)

a. Young fructification (carpophore). Note the concentric bands of color ofthe fungus growth.

b. Old fructification on an old infected tree.

c. Conservative form (resupinate) of the fungus. This form develops whenthere are unfavorable conditions

5. Young mycelia, typical of Rigidoporus lignosus, moving up the rubber tree.

6. Fructification of Ganoderma pseudoferreum on an old rubber tree stump.Note the typical white and brown to black color.

107

PLATE 8.1 1

CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF ROOT DISEASE

1. A 5 year old plantation. One tree has died from root disease (arrow). Thetwo adjacent trees within the row must be inspected the for présence of fungus.The roots o f the firsttree (a) hâve been exposed and inspected and the tree has notyet been contaminated. However, it wi l l be treated with a fungicide as a préventivemeasure. The second tree (b) is being exposed for inspection.

2. Iffungal infection is observed, expose the roots by diggingafunnel-shaped hole,40 cm deep and 20-30 cm wide, around the tap root and along its length.

3. Use a mirror to inspect for the présence of white fungus mycelia runningunder the root. Check the lower part of the axil of the tap and latéral rootscarefully. Ensure that ail soil is removed from the roots, using a pièce of dry cloth toremove the adhering soil.

4. When ail roots hâve been exposed and the soil removed, cover the exposedroots with a collar protectant.

5. Check that the collar protectant covers ail exposed roots, using a mirror tocheck that the lower part o f the axils are well covered.

6. Calixin CP® and Ingro-paste (local name for Fomac 2®) are widely used in Indo-nesia.

REMARKS:

1. Sulfur dust is sometimes recommended and, an alternative methodinvolves the application o f sulfur in the planting hole at about 150 g/hole o fproduct, mixed with the soil used for filling. Trees are then inspected and treatedevery six months.

2. New compounds like Bayfidan® (1) and Alto® (2), are now availablein liquid or granular formulations. Thèse products are easier to use and hâveshown better effectiveness against root disease than the old products.

108

Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

109

-Photos &Toxt by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

110

PLATE 8.1 2

COLLAR A N D BRANCH DISEASES

1. The collar of this tree shows external symptoms of canker disease; the barkis cracked and a dark purplish liquid (latex) exudes.

2. When you remove the bark you can see a pad of foul-smelling coagulated latex.

3. Scrape away ail the affected tissue and apply a fungicide préparation suchas Calixin® RM or Difolatan® 4F. Afterwards, protect the wood with a waterproofwound dressing like Shell Otina C.

4. A close-up o f Pink disease caused by the fungus Corticium salmonicolor ona three year old rubber tree. Silky pink threads (fungal mycelia) are growingalong the branch, forming the cobweb stage of the disease.

5-6. Control this disease by painting Calixin® RM in a band covering 20 cm eachside of the diseased portion of the branches.

7-8-9. In the advanced stage o f the disease, profuse exudation o f latexoccurs, resulting in death of the canopy and development of adventitious buds justbelow the infected area. Severely damaged branches eventually dry up and fall off.

REMARKS:

Bordeaux mixture is also very often used for pink disease control whentrees are not yet tapped.

111

PLATE 8.13

PANEL A N D LEAF DISEASE O N MATURE TREES

A. Panel diseases (Mouldy root, Black stripe)

1. A typical symptom o f panel diseases. Note the color o f the bark, which is turninggrey about 1 cm above the groove (see downward arrow). Note also the previousattack about 5 cm above the groove (see upward arrow).

2. When the infected portion o f the bark is black the fungus has already deeplypenetrated the bark and has almost reached the cambium.

3. If no control measures are taken, the fungus wi l i penetrate the cambium andbreak laticiferous cells, causing oozing o f latex. Eventually, the wood wi l l beseverely damaged and the bark wi l l become very difficult to tap.

4. Difolatan® 4F is frequently used to prevent panel diseases. During the rainyseason brush Difolatan® 4F solution onto the panel after each tapping.

B. Leaf diseases (Corynospora cassiicola, Colletotrichum sp., Oïdium, Phytophthora)

5. Note the leaf condition of two rubber clones. The clone in the left rowis susceptible to leaf disease whi le the clone in the right row is tolérant.Severely infected leaves fall off prematurely, hence the skeleton-like appearance o fthe trees in the left row.

6. One exemple of terminal flushes of rubber trees infected by fungus. Thèse treeshâve been defoliated on 3 consécutive occasions and you can see the marks of thethree previous flushes on the small branches (a, b,c).

REMARK:

If Difolatan® is not available, products like Antimucine or Alictte (fosetyl. al)can be used.

112

L Photos ?, T e * by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

113

114

PLATE 8.1 4

MEASURING GIRTH

Regular recording o f girth is a valuable index o f growth rate and means to predictopening date. It can be commenced as early as a year after planting and repeatedat 6 monthly intervais up to the time of the last opening which generally takesplace about a year after the first.

1. Well developed, 30 month old rubber trees in a weed-free plantation row.Identify by number those trees selected for girth measurement and paint thenumbers on the trees 1.80 m from the ground.

2. Measure the girth of the tree 1.0 meter above ground level and record. Recordgirth measurements annually from year one until opening the tree for tapping,in accordance with the recommended standards given below.

3. Marked trees in the one hectare field planted 4.20 m x 4 m on flat land. Ineach hectare, mark 30 trees for girth measurements:

- 10 trees in row 6 starting at the second tree,

- 10 trees in row 12 starting at the 7th tree from the edge

- 10 trees in row 18 starting at the second tree from the far end of the field.

4. Marked trees in a one hectare field planted 5 x 3.6 m on flat land. In each hectaremark 30 trees for girth measurement::

- 10 trees in row 4 starting at the second tree,

- 10 trees in row 10 starting at the 10th tree from the edge

- 10 trees in row 16 starting at the second tree from the far end of the field.

115

Chapter 9TAPPING, PROCESSING, MARKETING

9.1 Marking trees for opening and tapping

9.2 Marking tapping groove and bark consumption

9.3 "Tap dance (foot work) for higher level tapping

9.4 "Tap dance (foot work) for lower level tapping

9.5 Tapping

9.6 Upward tapping

9.7 Latex collection and coagulation

9.8 Processing latex

9.9 Making air-dried latex sheets

9.10 Receiving latex and determining its DRC

9.1 1 Marketing

117

PLATE 9.1

MARKING TREES

Part I: OPENING A N D TAPPING

1. When trees are about to be opened (50 cm circumference measured at 1 m fromthe ground), measure the girth of ail trees.

2. Put one spot o f paint at eye-leve! on each tree with a circumference of at least45 cm.

3. Put two spots o f paint at eye-level on each tree with a circumference o f at least47 cm.

4. Put three spots of paint at eye-level on each tree with a circumference of at least50 cm.

5. If planting rows are north-south oriented, mark the bark with an awl at a point1.30 m from the ground, on east side, on each tree with three spots. If plantingrows are east-west oriented, mark the bark on south side of the tree.

6-7. With a tapping knife cut a vertical line (groove) downwards from the mark tothe union.

8. Détermine the half circumference point of the tree using a cloth tape measure.Then, with a tapping knife, mark another vertical line (shallow groove) on theopposite side of the tree.

9. If a cloth tape measure is not available, you can use your nose to locate the siteof the second groove. Standing on the side of the tree opposite the first groove, findthe groove with your fingers. Your nose should be pointing exactly opposite thefirst groove, indicating the position of the second.

118

I Photos S Toxt by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO-

119

-Photos &T8X1 by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 9.2

MARKING TREES

Part II: TAPPING GROOVE A N D BARK CONSUMPTION

Having marked the half circumference of the tree, you are now ready to mark thetapping groove and monthly bark consumption. To do this you wi l l need a métaltemplate fixed to a 1.5 m wooden pôle. Construct this as illustrated Annex 10.

1. Mark the first groove by running an awl along the métal template.

2. Check that the groove slope is about 30°.

3. Mark the monthly bark consumption using the wooden pôle as a guide. Themonthly bark consumption should be 2 cm.

4. A close-up of a bark consumption marked for 6 months. Grooves are made at 2cm intervais.

5. Ensure that the lower part of the first groove is 1.30 m from the ground.

6.7. Adjust the depth o f the groove (1 .5 mm from the wood) so that the latex wil lf low down the groove for your first tapping.

8. Before adjusting the depth of the groove, equip the tree with:

- spout,

-cup,

- cup support,

- cable tying the cup support

REMARKS:

Tapper should carry the following equipment to make proper tapping:

- tapping knife

- whetstone

- bucket

- dressing wound

- basket to collect secondary qualities

121

PLATE 9.3

TAP DANCE (FOOTWORK) FOR HIGHER LEVEL TAPPING

Correct footwork when tapping wi l l not only make sure that you cut the groovestraight but wi l l also increase your efficiency, allowing you to tap more trees.Therefore, it is highly recommended that you fol iow the tap dance (footwork)routine as illustrated in plates 9.3 and 9.4.

1. Before you start tapping, remove coagulated latex from the groove.

2. If the groove is situated more than a 1-meter from the ground your tap danceséquence wi l l be left leg passing in front o f the right leg. Note the position o f thetapper when starting to tap, i.e. both legs about shoulder width apart.

3- 4 -5. As you cut the groove downwards, start crossing your left leg in front ofyour right leg.

6. To recover your balance, move your right legto your right. Repeatthe procédureuntil you finish the tapping, i.e., from the top to the bottom of the groove.

7. Make sure that latex flows down to the cup.

122

•-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

u Pholos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BEN1GNO

PLATE 9.4

TAP DANCE (FOOTWORK) FOR LOWER LEVEL TAPPING

1. Before you start tapping remove coagulated latex from the groove.

2. If the groove is less than 1 meter from the ground your tap dance séquencewil l be left leg passing behind the right leg. At the starting position your legsshould be apart with feet parai lel.

3. As you eut the groove downwards, cross your left leg behind your right leg.

4. Recover your balance by moving your right leg to your right.

5. As you move further down the tree, cross your left leg behind your rightleg again.

6. Move your right leg again to your right to recover your balance as you complètethe tapping.

125

PLATE 9.5

TAPPING

1. Just before tapping, remove the coagulated latex from the previous tapping fromthe groove.

2. Starting from the upper end of the groove remove a bark shaving, about 1.5 mmin thickness. Do not get doser than 1.5 mm from the wood. This procédure canonly be performed correctly if the tapping knife is properly positioned.

3. Note how latex flows down the groove following the knife blade as the bark iseut away.

4. Note how the latex is guided to the spout along the vertical incision made at thetime of tree marking.

5. The bark shaving. Note that it is continous.

6. Note the thickness of the bark shaving, 1.5 mm, indicating a good tappingtechnique.

126

1 Photos & T e » by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

127

L Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 9.6

UPWARD TAPPING

Upward tapping should be resorted to only if the lower 1.5 m of the trunk isno longer productive because of injury or disease.

1. Old rubber trees whose lower panels are no longer able to produce goodyields.

2. Upward tapping is performed with a spécial V shaped tapping knife attachedto a 1 -2 meter wooden pôle.

3. A very long, almost vertical groove, made by the knife.

4. Note how the tapping knife is driven into the bark as it is pushed upwards.

5. Upward tapping is sometimes combined with normal tapping to obtain higherproduction per tree.

129

PLATE 9.7

LATEX COLLECTION A N D COAGULATION

1 -2. Commence collecting latex about 3 hours after tapping the last tree. You cancoagulate your collected latex on your own farm in a coagulating shed as shownhère, or in your group coagulating center.

3. Pour 4 liters of latex into the aluminum coagulating pan. Then add 2 litersof clean water and 500 ml (one aluminum latex cup) of 1 % formic acid solution.

3a. A plastic drum containing 90% concentrated formic acid solution. To prépare1 % formic acid solution, measure 11 ml o f the 90% concentrated formic acid andadd to 1000 ml water.

4. Pour the 500 ml 1% formic acid solution slowly into the latex, stirring continu-ously.

5-7. The dimensions of the aluminum coagulating pan are:

- upper part: 48 x 25 cm

- bottom part: 40 x 21 cm

- height: 7 cm

- total capacity: 7 liters

130

-Photos & Toxt by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

131

- Photos & Text bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

132

PLATE 9.8

PROCESSING LATEX

1. Construct a storage shed large enough to air-dry the produce from your farmersgroup. Erect your mangles in front of this storage shed.

2. An inside view o f the storage shed, where latex sheets are hung to dry.

3. Close-up of a smooth mangle.

4. Close-up of a corrugated (grooved) mangle.

5. Pour your latex, mixed with formic acid, into coagulating pans.

6. After three hours, the latex coagulum is hard enough to be passed through themangles. Pass the coagulum twice through the smooth mangle and once throughthe grooved mangle.

7. Air-dry the pressed coagulum (latex sheet) in the storage shed, for one to twoweeks.

8. When sheets are completely dry, pile them up while awaiting the buyer.

133

PLATE 9.9

MAKING AIR-DRIED LATEX SHEETS

1. Pass coagulated latex twice through the smooth mangle, then once throughthe grooved mangle. At the same time press in the identification number of thefarmer who owns the sheet. (Note: the farmer's number is eut from galvanizedsheet iron).

2. Hang pressed sheets to dry inside the drying shed.

3. A well-dried sheet after 15 days. Note the light yellowish color of the sheet,indicating good quality latex.

4. Just before weighing the dried sheet, make a small eut with a pair of scissorsto check dryness. Note the margins of the eut. A well-dried sheet has a uniformcolor through the full thickness o f the sheet.

5. An incompletely dried sheet has white streaks and the selling price wi l l be about20% lower than a well-dried sheet.

134

'-Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

135

u Photos & Text bv M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

PLATE 9.10

RECEIVING LATEX AND DETERMINING ITS DRC ( 1 )

1. As soon as the latex arrives at the collection center it is weighed and recorded.

2. With the help of a metrolac, field latex DRC évaluation is carried out.

3. DRC data are recorded.

4. After the DRC and weight hâve been recorded, the latex is poured intoa watertank which transports it to the centrifugal latex factory.

REMARKS. DRC can also be estimated using the CHEE method:

1. Take a 100 ce latex sample from the tapper's bucket,

2. Pour the 100 ce sample into an aluminum cup and add about two tothree drops of strong formic acid,

3. Stir the contents o f the aluminum cup leaving the stirrer in the cup,

4. When the rubber has coagulated sufficiently hard, remove ail coagulumand the stirring rod from the cup, and roll the coagulum out with asmooth hand mangle (or a bottle filled with water),

5. Write the référence number on the sample in order to identify thesample, source and date of sampling and other useful information,

6. Completely dry the sample in the open air for about 4 days,

7. Weigh the sample using a simple balance. The weight is the DRC% o fthe latex.

( 1 ) DRC: Dry Rubber Content (commonly used instead of TSC which is the Total

Solid Content).

137

PLATE 9.11

MARKETING

Srnallholders often face difficultés in selling their latex production at fair prices.In order to provide assistance in marketing, it is recommended that farmers joina coopérative where they can get help and information in selling their productsat a better price.

1. Premises devoted to farmers groups where meetings are held betweenproducers and buyers (coopérative or KUD in Indonesia).

2-3. Farmers leaders discuss the volume they can sell and selling price withKUD officiais. The transaction is recorded for each farmers group before delivery.

4. After weighing and recording, farmers load their produce (air-dried sheets) ontoa delivery truck.

138

-Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

Chapter 10IDENTIFYING CLONES

10.1 Clone identification: PR 261 and BPM 1

10.2 Clone identification: AV 2037 and BPM 24

10.3 Clone identification: RRIM 712 and RRIM 600

10.4 Clone identification: RRIC 100 and RRIC 110

10.5 Clone identification: RRIC 102, GT 1 and PR 300

141

PLATE 10.1

PR 261 BPM 1

CLONE IDENTIFICATION : (TJ 1 X PR 107)

(Fig. 1 ,2 , 3 ,4 , 5) (Fig. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)

1. Leaf color a. dark green a. dark green

2. Leaf lustre b. du II b. du II

3. Texture b. rougb b. rough

4. Apex c. short c. short

5. Shape of the middle c. upperoval a. ellipticalleaflet

6. Left and right leaflets/ b. same shape but b. same shape butmiddle leaflet smaller smaller

7. Base of the middle c. intermediate a. very sharpleaflet

8. Rim of the middle b. wavy a. straightleaflet

9. Longitudinal profile a. flat a. flatof the middle leaflet

10. Cross section of the b. "V" form f. concavemiddle leaflet

11. Position of the leaf- a. separate a. separatelets

12. Profile of the pétiole a. straight a. straight

13. Small pétioles b. médium b. médiumd. open angle e. closed angleg. small angle from the h. large angle from thenerve nerve

14. Bud c. protrusive a. normalb. shield b. shield

15. Shape o f the leaf d. thick crescent d. thick crescentscars

16. Shape of the second a. hemispherical a. hemisphericalumbrella from the top

17. Latex color b. slightly yellow b. slightly yellow

REMARKS: letters a, b, c, refer to Annex 11 pages 1 and 2

142

L Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

143

L Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

144

PLATE 10.2

CLONE IDENTIFICATION : AV 2037 BPM 24

( A V 2 5 6 X A V 3 5 2 ) (Fig. 5, 6, 7, 8)

(Fig. 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 )

1. Leaf color a. green a. green

2. Leaf lustre b. dull b. dull

3. Texture a. smooth a. smooth

4. Apex c. short a. long

5. Shape of the middle c. upperoval a. ellipticalleaflet

6. Left and right leaflets/ b. same shape but a. equalmiddle leaflet smaller

7. Base of the middle b. rounded a. very sharpleaflet

8. Rim o f the middle a. straight a. straightleaflet

9. Longitudinal profile b. convex c. decliningof the middle leaflet

10. Cross section of the f. concave b. "V" formmiddle leaflet

11. Position of the mid- c. overlapped a. separatedie leaflets

12. Profile of the pétiole d. convex f. inclined

13. Small pétioles b. médium c. longd. open angle d. open anglef. aligned with the h. large angle from thenerve nerve

14. Bud c. protrusive a. normalb. shield

15. Shape o f the leaf a. round b. shieldscars d. thick crescent

16. Shape of the second a. hemispherical d. trunk conicalumbrella from the top

17. Latex color b. slightly yellow a. white

REMARKS: letters a, b, c, refer to Annex 11 pages 1 and 2

145

PLATE 10.3

CLONE IDENTIFICATION : RRIM 712 RRIM 600

(Fig. 1, 2, 3, 4) (TJ 1 X PB 86)

(Fig. 5, 6, 7)

1. Leaf color b. green c. l ight green

2. Leaf lustre a. glossy a. glossy

3. Texture a. smooth a. smooth

4. Apex b. médium b. médium

5. Shape of the middle a. elliptical c. upper ovalleaflet

6. Left and right leaflets/ a. equal b. same shape butmiddle leaflet smaller

7. Base of the middle a. very sharp a. very sharpleaflet

8. Rim o f the middle b. wavy a. straightleaflet

9. Longitudinal profile c. declining b. convexof the middle leaflet

10. Cross section o f the b. "V" form a. flatmiddle leaflet

11. Position of the mid- a. separate a. separatedie leaflets

12. Profile o f the pétiole a. straight a. straight

13. Small pétioles c. long b. médiume. closed angle d. open angleg. small angle with the f. aligned withnerve the nerve

14. Bud a. normal a. normal

15. Shape o f the leaf b. shield b. shieldscars d. thick crescent d. thick crescent

16. Shape of the second d. trunk conical c. conicalumbrella from the top

17. Latex color a. white b. slightly yellow

REMARKS: letters a, b, c, refer to Annex 11 pages 1 and 2

146

- Photos & Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

147

-Photos &Text by M. DELABARRE & D. BENIGNO

148

PLATE 10.4

CLONE IDENTIFICATION : RRIC100 RRIC110

(Fig. 1 ,2 ,3 ) (Fig. 4, 5, 6)

1. Leafcolor c. light green b. green

2. Leaf lustre a. glossy a. glossy

3. Texture a. smooth b. rough

4. Apex c. short b. médium

5. Shape of the middle a. elliptical a. ellipticalleaflet

6. Left and right leaflets/ a. d i f f é r e n t shape a n d b. same shape butmiddle leaflet smaller smaller

7. Base of the middle a. very sharp c. intermediateleaflet

8. Rim o f the middle b. wavy a. straightleaflet

9. Longitudinal profile c. declining b. convexof the middle leaflet

10. Cross section of the a. flat a. flatmiddle leaflet

11. Position of the mid- b. contiguous c. overlappeddie leaflets

12. Profile of the pétiole a. straight c. erect

13. Small pétioles a. short b. médiumd. open angle e. closed anglef. aligned with the g. small angle fromnerve the nerve

14. Bud c. protusive c. protusive

15. Shape o f the leaf a. round a. roundscars d. thick crescent d. thick crescent

16. Shape of the second b. flat a. hemisphericalumbrella from the top

17. Latex color a. white a. white

REMARKS: letters a, b, c, refer to Annex 11 pages 1 and 2

149

PLATE 10.5CLONE IDENTIFICATION : RR1C 102 PR 300 GT 1

(seeAnnexI l ) (Fig. 1,2) (Fig. 5, 6, 7, 8) (Fig. 3, 4)

1. Leafcolor c. light green b. dark green a. dark green

2. Leaf lustre b. dull b. dull a. glossy

3. Texture a. smooth a. smooth a. smooth

4. Apex b. médium a. long a. long

5. Shape of the b. lower oval a. elliptical c. upper ovalmiddle leaflet

6. Left and right c. différent shape b. same shape but a. equall e a f l e t s / m i d d l e and smaller smallerleaflet

7. Base o f the c. intermediate c. intermediate a. very sharpmiddle leaflet

8. Rim o f the a. straight b. wavy a. straightmiddle leaflet

9. Longitudinal b. convex a. flat c. decliningpro f i l e o f t hemiddle leaflet

10. Cross section b. "V" form f. concave f. concaveof the middle leaf-let

11. Posit ion o f c. overlapped c. overlapped b. contiguousthe middle leaflets

12. Profile of the a. straight c. erect a. straightpétiole

13. Small pétioles b. médium b. médium b. médiume. closed angle e. closed angle d. open anglef. para l le l w i t h g. sma l l angle f. para l le l w i t hthe nerve from the nerve the nerve

14. Bud c. protusive c. protusive a. normal

15. Shape of the a. round b. shield b. shieldleaf scars d. thick crescent c. thin crescent

16. Shape of the a. hemispherical a. hemispherical d. trunk conicalsecond umbrellafrom the top

17. Latex color b. slightly yellow b. slightly yellow a. white

REMARKS: letters a, b, c, refer to Annex 11 pages 1 and 2

150

Photos &Toxt by M. DELABARBE & D. BEN1GNO

151

ANNEXES

ANNEX1. 1.1 Soil layer examination.1.2 Soil profile report (form 1).1.3 Soil class criteria.1.4 Determining soil texture.1.5 Estimate of area ratio.1.6 Soil textures.

ANNEX 2. 2.1 Level stick method for measuring slope.2.2 The "A" frame.

ANNEX 3. Manual land préparation for nurseries.

ANNEX 4. Seed germination stages.

ANNEX 5. Chemical treatment of diseases in ground, polybag orbudwood nurseries.

ANNEX 6. Working box for budding.

ANNEX 7. 7.1 Pullingjack.7.2 Bare root budded stump.

ANNEX 8. Template for measuring weed coverage and weedingschedule.

ANNEX 9. Fertilizing young rubber trees.

ANNEX 10. Template for marking the groove and bark consump-tion before tapping.

ANNEX 11. Criteria for clone identification.

ANNEX 1.1Soil layer examination

>zzmX

Soil Profile Report

Province Location Form 1

Hble/ Soil characteristics Topographyréférence , , , , , 1 , ,

Soil Soil Grayel/ Top soil Drainage Class Flat Slopy Slope Totaldepth texture stone% thickness (0-10%) (10-40%) >40% ha

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12

>zzmX

w

Soil Class Criteria Tab le 1

Q u a l i t y Class Soil Texture Gravel /s tone T o p soil Dra inage

dep th

1. Sandy loam; soil that is easily scraped and None >12 cm thick, contains Good; depth o f watercracked. a lot o f organic mate- table not less than 150

2. Sandy clay; easy to form like a ball/small rial. c m from soii surface.Good/ A > 1 1 0 c m ring, and when rolled between palms,

very good does not break.3. Clayey sand; easy to form like a bail/ring,

difficult to roll into a sausage shape with-out breaking.

1. Clay; easy to form into sausage shape Gravel layer at 50 cm, Thickness o f top soil G o o d to m é d i u m ;Médium B > 1 1 0 c m and can be rolled between palms before b u t n o t more than 5-12 cm. depth o f water table

i t f inal ly breaks. 30% gravel (refer to not less than 110 cmFigure 1 to estimate% from soil surface,o f gravel/stone).

1. Sandy Heavy gravel layer Thickness o f top soil Médium topoor; depth> 50 cm; contains not more than 5 cm; o f water table not less

Thin/poor C 80-1 10 cm 30-50% gravel. there is indication o f than 80 cm from soil2. Heavy clay; very easy to form a bail and soil érosion. surface; requires drain-

looks like plastic. âge.

1. Coarse sand; pure sand. Soil layer is about 50 There is soil érosion. Water table less thanBad D <80 cm There is leaching. cm; contains 50% or 80 cm from soil sur-

more gravel or stone. face; diff icult to drain.

ANNEX 1.4Determining soil texture

Column2. Measure effective soil depth to fil l-in column 2Column3. Get soil sample 1 and soil sample 2 as illustrated 2.

Détermine soil texture by refering to table 1, (Annex 1, pages 3 and 6)and fill-in column 3.

Column4. If there is a layer o f gravel or stone, measurè the depth and thickness, thendétermine the percentge o f gravel or stone by refering to Annex 1 page 4.

Column5. Top soil: measure thickness o f top soil to fill-in column 5.Columnô. Check if there is any indication o f hydromorphy such as a thin layer of blue or

grey soil above the layer o f white clay or gray soil or mottled clay.

Remarks :A. For ail locations fil l-in columns 2 to 6 as per above instructionsB. For columns 2, 4, 5 and 6, use capital letters A, B, C and D.

For column 3 (texture), fill it in using one capital letter and one numbercorresponding to the type o f soil based on Table 1 (Annex 1, page 3).

C. To détermine soil class in column 7, get the lowest class that is in column 2, 3,4, 5, and 6.

Example :

C o l u m n 2 3 4 5 6 Class 7

Locat ion 1 A B1 B A A B

Location 2 B A 2 C B A C

ANNEX 1.5Estimate o f area ratio

(Gravel/stone)

ANNEX 1.6Soil textures

ANNEX 2.1Level stick method for measuring slope

ANNEX 2.2The "A" Frame

ANNEX 3Manual land préparation for nurseries

ANNEX 4Seed germination stages

(starting 4 to 6 days after planting in seedbed)

ANNEX 5Chemical treatment of diseases in ground, polybag or budwood nurseries

Disease Cause Fungicide Kg/ha Melhod o f Remarksactive Commercial application

ingrédient product

Anthrac- Colletotrichum Chlorota- 1.8 Portable 4 rounds atnose gloeosporioides lonyl sprayer weekly

^ intervais asleaves areunfolding

Powdery Oïdium heveae Sulphur 9 Powder dittomi ldew dust duster

Bird's Dreschlera Zineb or 2 Portable Spray ex-eye spot heveae Maneb sprayer panding

leaves atweeklyinlervals

P inkd i - Corticium Tridemorph Brushingsease salmonicolor 2% infected

portion

Dieback Various fungi Chlorota- 1.8 Portable 4 roundslonyl sprayer at weekly

intervaisas leavesareunfolding

NOTE : Préventive treatment is the key to success.

ANNEX 6Working box for budding

ANNEX 7.1Pulling jack

Pulling out buddedstump with a pulling jack

ANNEX 7.2

Bare root budded stumps

AVery good

BPoor

C DAcceptable

E F C HUnacceptable

ANNEX 8Weeding schedule

Period Manual weedingLalang Chemical

Rubber Sélective cover wiping spraying

0-6 every 3 weeks every 3 weeks monthlymonths

6-12 monthly monthly monthlymonths

1-2 - bimonthly bimonthly monthlyyears

2-3 - - quaterly quaterlyyears

3-4 - - every 4 every 4years months months

4-5 - - every 4 every 6years months months

5-6 - - annually every 6years months

Template for measuring weed cover âge

ANNEX 9Fertilizing young Rubber trees

Before the nutrient requirements of rubber in a particular locality canbe determined with any degree of accuracy, the nutrient status of the soil shouldbe determined by conducting a soil nutrient survey of the area. Meanwhile, thestandard fertilizer recommendation is given below :

Time of application, fertilizer and quantity in g/tree

Time ofYear application in RP Urea TSP KCL/ Dolomit

month after MOPplanting

0 In planting 150 -hoie

2-3 60 601(1) 6 - 45 30 25 40

9 - 45 30 25 4012 - 45 30 25 40

15 - 60 40 25 402 ( 2 ) 18 - 60 40 25 40

21 - 60 40 25 4024 - 60 40 25 40

27 - 60 50 25 40

3( 2 ) 30 - 80 50 25 40

33 - 80 50 25 40

36 - 80 50 25 40

39 - 80 55 35 55

4(2 )

42 - 55 55 35 55

45 - 55 55 35 55

48 - 55 55 35 55

51 - 55 55 50 605 (3) 54 - 55 55 50 60

57 - 55 55 50 6060 - 55 55 50 60

6 (3) 63 - - - 140 6066 - - - 140 60

(1) . Application: disperse in a circle of about 50 cm radius around the tree.<2) . Application: disperse over the soil surface along the rows of young plants.(3) . Application: disperse evenly ail over the planting area.

ANNEX 10Template for marking the groove and bark

consumption before tapping

ANNEX 11Criteria for clone identification

1. Leafcolora. dark greenb. greenc. light greend. yellowish green.

2. Leaf lustrea. glossyb. dull.

3. Texturea. smoothb. roughc. stiffd. soft.

4. Apexa. long

b. médium

c. short

5. Shape of the middle leaflet

a. elliptical . b. lower oval c. upper oval d. diamond shape

6. Left and right leaflets/middle leaflet

a. equal b. same shape but smaller

c. différent shape and smaller

7. Base of the middle leaflet

a. very sharp b. rounded _ c. intermediate

8. Rim of the middle leaflet

a. straight b. wavy

9- Longitudinal profile of the middle leaflet

a. flat b. convex c. declining

10. Cross section of the middle leaflet

a. flat b. "V" form c. "U" form

d. "M" form e. convex f. concave

11. Position of the leaflets

a. separate b. contiguous c. overlapped

12. Profile of the pétiole

a. straight

b. concave.

c. erect

d. convex

e. "S" form

f. inclined.

13. Small pétioles

a. short b. médium c. long

d. open angle e. closed angle

f. aligned with the nerve. g. small angle from the nerve

h. large angle from the nerve

14. Bud

a. normal b. sunk into the bark c. protrusive

15. Shape of the leaf scars

a. round b. shield c. thin crescent d. thick crescent

16. Shape of the second umbrella from the top

a. hemispherical b. flat c. conical d. trunk conical

17. Latex color

a. whiteb. slightly yellow

c. yellow

Centre de coopération internationaleen recherche agronomique pour le développementDépartement des cultures pérennesCIRAD-CP

Direktorat jenderal perkebunanDepartemen pertanian