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The inspirational publication for retail design professionals. Includes Visual Merchandising supplement! Be inspired...
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www.mtfx.com/vm
Ice Crystal Spray a spritz of
Regulars7 Leader8 Diary11-13 News
14-15 WindowshoppingInspiring window displays from around the globe.
16 TopofthePOPS
19 KarlMcKeeverKarl looks at the brands that built our cities.
www.retail-focus.co.uk
.20-27 ProjectFocusTed Baker: The Cambridge Satchel Company: Nickelodeon
60 OpinionCraig Phillipson, managing director and founder of Shopworks, offers sound advice for brands expanding overseas.
62 ProductsProducts and services for the retail industry.
74 Q&AWe chat to David Elliott, business development director at Voisins, Jerseys largest department store, about his career journey and the stores beauty department redesign.
29 Beautyretail 58Londonfocus
33VMFocussupplement
Design&shopfiting55 67 Focuson:Lighting
Ted Baker & Moore is the brands latest store concept, designed to shine a light on the wider offering of Ted Baker, nestled in the heart of
East London at 132 Commercial Street.
Widerworld20-21
Returning to London
It was, without a doubt, the best Show we have exhibited at in 20 years in terms of the volume and, crucially, the quality of leads we picked up. We will definitely be back next year.
Mike Houghton, Marketing Director,CJ Retail Solutions
The leading event for innovation and inspiration in RETAIL DESIGN, VISUAL MERCHANDISING, MARKETING & SHOPFITTING is doubling in size and filling up fast!
With 80% rebooked, space is going fast and we expect to sell out well before the show!
Act now to avoid disappointment. Call Rachel or Michelle on +44 (0) 208 874 2728 or email [email protected]
Your unique opportunity to:
Generate qualified targeted leads Secure new business Increase existing business Promote awareness for your company Be seen as a leader in the industry
Co-located with Supported by
Hunter Flagship by Checkland Kindleysides
RDE_RetailFocus_June2015_216x303.indd 1 23/06/2015 10:26
7leader
Retail Focus is proud to be associated with and a supporter of ACID
Pinterest /retailfocus
@retailfocus
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Industry associations
Get more from Retail Focus online! www.retail-focus.co.uk
EditorLyndsey Dennis
t. +44 (0)845 680 7405
Production & WebTerry Clark
t. +44 (0)845 680 7405
Display SalesLee Cullumbine
t. +44 (0)845 680 7405
f. +44 (0)871 528 8000
SubscriptionsFor subscription enquiries
please email:
Retail Focus is published 12 times a year by
Retail Focus Promotions Ltd, Yeomans, Bassetts Lane,
Woodham Walter, Maldon, Essex, CM9 6RZ.
No part of Retail Focus may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted in any form without permission. Please
address all enquiries to the editor at the above address. The
opinions expressed in Retail Focus are the views of the writer and
do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the publisher.
Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of the information
contained in these pages. We will assume permission to publish
any unsolicited material unless otherwise stated.
Retail Focus Promotions Ltd 2013.
In the fiercely competitive sector of beauty retail, achieving stand out is key. The emphasis is on getting customers to try the product. Theres a whole host of elements to consider when designing beauty retail spaces, such as tweaking the lighting so that it doesnt affect the colour of make-up, to keeping units tidy due to the dust created by customers trying out testers. Turn to page 29-30 to hear from some designers all too familiar with this type of environment.
We look at collaborative working between retailer, shopfitter and designer on pages 55-57. Simon Campbell, managing director of fit-out specialist Portview, sums it up: Collaboration between all the specialists on a fit-out project is essential. No project can succeed unless the professionals work together to realise the retailers investment and bring the designers vision for the outlet to life on time, on budget and to a quality standard.
We bring you some of the planned retail sites for London. Battersea Power Station looks set to be a key retail destination for the capital, as part of the Nine Elms redevelopment. Phase 1 of the iconic former power station revamp will open towards the end of 2016. You can read more about this and many other projects in the capital on pages 58-59.
This issue features a dedicated VM Focus supplement, starting on P33. On pages 39-40, Gemma Balmford looks at the role of exhibitions within brand recognition, and on 45-46 we explore resourceful VM. Theres no harm in being clever with budgets and creating inspiring displays by recycling items and reusing props, mannequins and fittings.
Lyndsey DennisEditor
July 15
instagram.com/retailfocus
8diary
Life on FootDesign Museum, LondonRuns until 1 November 2015
Life on Foot marks the 40th anniversary of
creative Spanish footwear brand Camper,
with an exhibition that provides an insight
of how a shoe collection is researched,
created and presented from the carving
of the last to the graphics on the box.
Life on Foot uses some of Campers most
recognisable styles Pelotas, Himalayan,
Twins and Wabi as lenses through which
to explore the design, manufacturing and
history of this independent family- run
business whose products are purchased in
their millions worldwide.
DesignMuseum
www.designmuseum.org
100% DesignOlympia London23-26 September 2015
100% Design is the largest and longest
running contemporary design event
for industry professionals in the UK.
For 2015 the show has a new venue,
Olympia London, and show concept.
The show is defined by four key industry
sections: Interiors, Workplace, Kitchens &
Bathrooms and Design & Build.
designlondon
www.100percentdesign.co.uk
London Design FestivalLondon, Citywide19-27 September 2015
First staged in 2003, the London Design
Festival is one of the worlds most
important annual design events. The
festival programme is made up of more
than 350 events and exhibitions staged
by hundreds of partner organisations
across the design spectrum and from
around the world.
@L_D_F
www.londondesignfestival.com
Autumn Fair InternationalNEC, Birmingham6-9 September 2015
Autumn Fair International offers product
sourcing opportunities for Christmas and
for early previews of spring 2015 ranges.
The show will include Retail Shop, a new
area where visitors can engage with key
industry figures offering expert technical
guidance on topics such as shop design,
product display and in-store solutions.
SpringAutFair
www.autumnfair.com
Photographer: Jill Tate
T: 01945 420 068 | E: [email protected] | @VMDISPLAYAWARDS | VMANDDISPLAY.COM
THURSDAY 19TH NOVEMBER 2015 AT THE BLOOMSBURY BIG TOP LONDON
TAB L E S & T I C K E T S
Recognising & celebrating the work of our innovative and talented industry, the 11th VM & Display Awards will this year be held on the 19th November 2015 at the
exclusive Bloomsbury Big Top in London.
Its a great opportunity to attend an event at this very special location. But tables and tickets sell out very quickly so please contact us as
soon as possible.
E N TRY SUBM I S S IONS
Your chance to join the industry Hall of Fame. Projects are free to enter and can be submitted by retailers or suppliers.
All projects dated between 1st August 2014 and 1st August 2015 are eligible. The deadline for entries is 14th August 2015. See the full list of categories and requirements on our website.
A NNOUNC I NG
11
Topshop recently tranformed its Oxford
Circus flagship into a giant playland, with
inflatables, games, prizes and treats galore
for customers.
Outside, huge inflatables adorned the
store frontage, conceived by set designer
Rachel Thomas, as well as a giant arcade
claw that filled the entire window. A
world first, the game was activated and
controlled by Twitter, with lots of prizes up
for grabs including everything from
make-up treats to a 500 shopping spree. Inside, the fun continued with a
fashion twist on iconic arcade games
such as Zoltar who read your fashion
news
Topshop Oxford Circus transformed into giant playland
Last month, Selfridges installed the
Re-Work It centrepiece in its Oxford
Street store.
Dubbed the rain of chairs, the
centrepiece was the result of more than
90 artists, designers and personalities
including the likes of Cara Delevingne,
Paul Smith and Jasmine Guinness
each reinventing the iconic Ernest Race
BA2 chair and donating the recreated
chair to The Art Room.
All 90+ chairs cascaded down
Selfridges central atrium in an
installation that measured 32m x 14m,
dropping vertically from the ceiling of
the London store. All the chairs were
auctioned off, with all proceeds going to
The Art Room.
future, Ms Pac Man and the Penny Pusher.
Customers could collect tokens to play as
they shopped. The flagship also featured
a tweet for treats vending machine that
dispensed goodies all weekend as well as
giant lollipops and candy floss giveaways
throughout the store.
Topmans entire window was taken
over by a giant video arcade screen, and
on the second floor shoppers could play
to become King of the Hammer in a giant
version of the popular game. Everyone who
played went home with some sort of prize,
and if they hit the jackpot they could win a
100 voucher.
Raining chairs at Selfridges
12
news
12
In brief...
UK Point of Sale is celebrating its 25th
anniversary this year. To celebrate, the
company has created a timeline on its
website to showcase its achievements
during the years.
The British Retail Consortium has launched
a new brand identity, designed by We
Launch. As the retail landscape evolves,
it was important for the BRC to refresh its
own brand so that it continues to stand at
the forefront of such an exciting, diverse
and dynamic industry.
The Shop and Display Equipment
Association (SDEA) has published a new
guide for 2015/2016. Buyers can select
from more than 100 leading designers,
manufacturers and suppliers of specialist
retail display products and services. A free
copy is available to the first 50 readers who
call 01883 348 911 or who mention Retail
Focus when emailing [email protected]
RBTE has announced a major new
development with the launch of the
eCommerce Quarter at the 2016 RBTE
exhibition. The eCommerce Quarter will
be a major show within a show at RBTE
featuring 50+ stands that will be devoted
exclusively to eCommerce vendors. The
new space will also host an eCommerce
Conference Theatre.
12
Westfield London to expand The Village luxury quarter
Vitra and Camper launch pop-up
Architect Dibdo Francis Kre has designed a
pop-up project on the Vitra Campus in Weil am
Rhein, Germany as a joint venture between Vitra
and Camper.
The pop-up, located in the Dome on the
campus, has been designed in conjunction
with the Making Africa exhibition at the Vitra
Design Museum and will also enable the project
partners to explore experimental ideas for new
retail concepts, which aim to make shopping a
true experience and stengthen the relationship
between the brand and its customers.
For example, visitors to the Dome will be able
to access digital information about the specific
models along with the background details on
their design. Another feature is the scanner that
takes precise measurements of a customers feet.
The resulting data not only determines the optimal
fit for a pair of shoes, visitors can also order a
customised insole based on their individual foot
shape. The scanned data can then be used for
subsequent online purchases from Camper.
Marks & Spencer has opened its
largest UK franchise store at London
Waterloo. The full line store offers 464
sq m of general merchandise space as
well as a 418 sq m food hall.
The store is the retailers second
station site to sell both food and
clothing the general merchandise
section sells womenswear, menswear
and lingerie. Its also the first station
site to offer the retailers Shop Your
Way service, including two touch
screen ordering points to order from
M&S.com in-store, providing customers
with the full M&S offering.
Marks & Spencer opens largest franchise store
Westfield has announced a multi-million pound investment in the expansion of its
luxury shopping area, The Village at Westfield London. The plans will see a number of
stores expand, new luxury names open and existing retailers relocate to larger spaces.
The refurbishment will see fashion brand Versace increase its presence with
three stores in Westfield London, including two new stores in The Village - Versace
and Versus Versace. Following the success of its pop-up store at Westfield London,
shoppers will now be able to visit the first permanent Versus Versace store in the UK.
Other new retailers arriving in autumn 2015 will include Sandro, Jigsaw, Zadig and
Voltaire and Claudie Pierlot. In addition, Whistles will be opening a new enlarged
store later this year. Hackett has recently completed a refit and opened an impressive
new store. Caf Concerto has relocated to a larger space, creating an exciting new
dining concept in The Village, and Georg Jenson has opened a new store.
The Village enhancements also include the launch of a new personal styling
service, The Fashion Lounge, located on the second floor of The Village. Expert stylists
will be on hand and a range of beauty treatments will also be available from The
Fashion Lounge.
1313
news
Tiffany & Co. celebrated its new store
installation at Selfridges earlier this month
by creating an immersive experience that
took visitors on a magical stroll down Fifth
Avenue, New York.
Called Fifth & 57th and located at
Old Selfridges Hotel on Orchard Street
behind Selfridges department store, the
installation explored the corner of Fifth
and 57th where Tiffanys iconic New York
flagship is located, recreating the energy
and excitement of the city where Tiffany
was founded in 1837.
Visitors entered through a Subway
turnstyle. Hundreds of boxes created a
skyline of buildings, with light projections
recreating Manhattans bustling street life.
The flagships store front featured window
displays by the legendary Gene Moore,
Tiffany & Co launches Fifth & 57th installation
Heals opens co-working cafe at Tottenham Court Road site
Heals has collaborated with Forge & Co to introduce a new
co-working cafe at its Tottenham Court Road store. Situated on
the first floor, Forge & Co at Heals offers a rejuvenating, creative
hub combining co-working space for customers and local
residents with a lounge bar and a British brasserie - named
The Canteen, in tribute to the sites original use as an eatery for
Heals workers.
Forge & Co at Heals reinforces the social working
phenomenon where professional and leisure activities meet,
allowing people to exchange and grow ideas together in a
stimulating, collaborative working environment. Architect Moxey
Associates has created a contemporary, multi-functioning space,
encompassing co-working, meeting, dining and lounging zones.
Nestled within the comforts of the Heals store, the new caf
is designed not only to be a hub within the Heals building but
also a retreat away from the hustle and bustle of the West End.
The overall aesthetic is relaxed and comfortable, using carefully
selected pieces from the Heals furniture and lighting range
to create a classic style with a fresh, modern twist, says Simon
Moxey of Moxey Associates.
Burberry has expanded its global flagship at 121 Regent
Street in London to create an exclusive area for gifting.
The new space also features an all-day cafe that offers an
entirely British menu.
The gifting area houses a seasonally updated collection
of gifts created for the store alongside an assortment of
existing products centred around home, stationery and
travel items. Gifts can be personalised in a number of ways
including embroidery and leather embossing performed by
hand by skilled craftsmen based in the store. Items can be
wrapped at stations located within the space, with a wide
selection of exclusive printed and solid ribbons available
for customers to choose from, as well as personalised gift
cards from paper embossing machines in-store.
who designed the brands windows from
1955 through to 1994.
The area included a bench under a
beautiful magnolia tree a prominent motif
in the stained glass masterworks of Louis
Comfort Tiffany, son of the companys
founder and a leading American designer
of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
A master engraver offered
complimentary hand engraving of Tiffany
jewellery purchased at Selfridges during
the run of the exhibition. Visitors could also
stop for a drink at Charlies and grab free
coffee and pretzels from a side cart.
Burberry opens cafe and gifting area at its Regent Street store
14
Windowshopping
Inspiring window displays from around the globe
OasisC Colour worked alongside Oasis to produce its international summer
scheme to support the retailers collaboration with the V&A Museum.
Prints in the Oasis V&A Collection were the teams inspiration for the
window scheme. To highlight the brands second collaboration of the
season with Gandys flip flops, along with the Gandys brothers Orphans
for Orphans charity, C Colour produced vintage-inspired printed
suitcases, which were used as in-store displays for the flip flops. For both
collaborations, C Colour produced and installed bespoke displays for
Argyll St, the brands flagship London store, in addition to the scheme
rolled out across all stores internationally.
DebenhamsPLANarama helped Debenhams add some neon details to illuminate its crisp
white window scheme. Each window had a different theme: White House
based around homewares, White Wash for washing, Great White for a holiday/
swimwear theme and White Noise where mannequins were adorned with lit-up
headphones. Sheets of MDF were CNC cut into basic shapes and outlines were
made with LED lighting.
See more window installations on the blog:
www.retail-focus.co.uk/blog
Pitti Uomo88At Pitti Uomo88 in Italy, a specialist in mens clothing and
accessories, Arte Vetrina Project worked on engaging both
visual and auditory senses, adding an auditory component to
strengthen the connection between what is heard and what
is seen. This interactive window display represents the male
line, giving a contemporary taste to Roy Rogers archive
and tradition.
GapGaps June hanging tees and colourful risers windows were
created by SFD and displayed in the retailers flagship
windows thoughout the USA. The coloured risers were
designed flat packed so they could then be assembled in
store. The large and graphic risers could hold the weight of
two mannequins and created impact in the scheme.
visual merchandising
15
visual merchandising
Window
Jack WillsC Colour produced this patriotic
window vinyl scheme for Jack Wills to
promote its Young Brits competition.
The vinyl was designed inhouse
and rolled out nationally to all of the
retailers UK locations, In addition
to the vinyl, the Jack Wills flagship
windows in Covent Garden and Soho
were hand-painted by the VM team
including a huge 8m-wide Union Jack
at the top of the Long Acre store.
SelfridgesAs part of Selfridges Work-It
campaign from April - June,
Propability created this
window based on what
children aspire to be when
theyre older. Selfridges
worked with a local school
where children created
designs in 2D, which illustrated
what their ambitions were.
Selfridges then selected the
designs for the window, and
Propability produced 3D
sculptures, with the companys
scenic artist replicating the
childrens original artwork.
Ben ShermanLucky Fox has collaborated on Ben
Shermans Brighton Rock theme,
inspired by the brands iconic roots
and a trip to the British seaside. The
collection captures the colour and
feel of a walk along the seafront, so
Lucky Fox loaded up on bespoke
printed deckchairs (lifted from one
of its shirt designs) and took them
down to the pebble beach installed
in each store window. Oversized
Brighton Pier backdrops and bespoke
seated mannequins completed the
scheme.
Vivienne WestwoodStudioXAG designed, produced and
installed this Mad Hatters Tea Party
scheme in Vivienne Westwoods
flagship Conduit Street store in
London. The windows celebrated the
150th anniversary of Lewis Carrolls
Alices Adventures in Wonderland,
and the launch of the new edition
with a cover redesigned by Dame
Vivienne Westwood.
POP
POPStop
CompanyMad About Design
ClientChristian Dior Parfums
Display titleMiss Dior & Dior Homme mall site
Sector Fragrance
LocationWestfield London
The briefMad About Design was commissioned by
Dior to design and build a site for Westfield
London with a main structure that can be
easily re-used and adapted for different
launches. The structure was made to
co-promote Miss Dior and Dior Homme
fragrances on a single site for a month-long
pop-up promotion with Boots.
The resultThe main tower unit housed four screens
playing the TV adverts and was surrounded
by black powder coated metal frames with
coloured LED lights inset in channels, and
illuminated Dior logos. Tables sat on each
corner of the site to encourage testing and
held a locked storage space for stock. All
elements were made in compliance with
health and safety regulation applicable in
shopping centres.
www.themadpeople.com
16
of the
Call: 0845 680 7405 to advertise
17
iposdesign
We create exceptional marketing campaigns across every aspect of retail point of sale throughout the UK, Ireland and Europe.
[email protected] | 0161 477 8501 | ipos-design.co.uk
COME AND SEE WHAT WE CAN DO IPOS-DESIGN.CO.UK
The new SDE A Retail Display Directory
SHOPFITTINGS . DISPLAY . POS . POP . LIGHTING SIGNAGE . VISUAL MERCHANDISING
The essential buyers guide to creating
innovative retail interiors
Shop and Display Equipment Association
24 Croydon Road Caterham Surrey CR3 6YR T: 01883 348911 F: 01883 343435 E: [email protected]
www.shopdisplay.org
Order your free copy today by calling SDEA on 01883 348911,
or email [email protected]
an event by
THE ULTIMATERETAIL MEETING
21 23 sept. 2015
Pavilion 1
PARIS EXPO PORTE DE VERSAILLESFRANCE
NEW
Prepare your visit and download the apps
flix
The events E-Commerce Paris
and Digital(in)Store federate
35,000 players from e-commerce
and retail around tomorrows
major challenges!
2 EVENTS, 1 PLACE 600 participating companies
+ 250 Workshops
+ 30 Masterclass
2 Start-up Villages
10 Reference Awards including 1 start-up Rookie of the Year
Inside Paris Retail Week 4 exceptional Plenaries
The Facebook, Twitter, Google Academiese
The Awards ceremony - Sept. 21
A Careers Area
Hors Les Murs in Paris 2 store tours
Networking evening
Partner events
REQUEST YOURFREE BADGE ON: ECOMMERCEPARIS.COM
DIGITAL-IN-STORE-EVENT.COMPARIS, CAPITAL OF CONNECTED COMMERCE.
Join the community #ParisRetailWeek #ECP15 #DIS15
P R E S E N T S
Non-contractual inform
ation subject to change
AnnoncePressePRW_GB_210x297.indd 1 2/06/15 14:12:48
Q & A
19
The brands that built our cities
The mass movement of consumers from the high street to online
shopping has been well documented in recent years. One negative
effect of this and something that has affected everyone, not just the
retailers, is the lack of new retail landmarks that act as focal points
in our towns and cities.
The great department stores of the last century Harrods,
Selfridges, Liberty were the internet shopping innovations of
their day. They opened up a world of goods and products that
were previously unavailable, all under one roof. With the opening
of these huge stores there was a desire that they be built as
cathedrals to retailing, in buildings that befit their grand nature. In
order to introduce and market themselves to the consumer, retailers
created their own landmarks of architectural significance.
In recent years, consumerism and the ease of purchasing
goods from brands, both foreign and domestic, have subdued the
excitement of a new store coming to town. Twenty-five years ago,
the idea of Selfridges or Harvey Nichols opening in a city outside
of London would have been met with hysteria amongst shoppers,
and as such the stores buildings would have to be grand enough
to meet expectation. Just look at the space that Selfridges occupies
in Birminghams Bullring mall; its an interesting architectural
destination within its own right.
Today, new examples are few and far between. Retail tenants
to third party landlords have overtaken the desire for proprietary
property ownership. Our towns and cities are no longer individual
or recognisable. Anonymous retail schemes and shopping centres
have created a deluge of flat-pack high street stores, each as
indefinite as the next. Consumers can purchase any item they
desire online; they dont need to wait for a store to open near
them to make it convenient to purchase its goods. Building a city-
defining structure isnt required to introduce a retailer to a new
consumer base.
Whilst this is a sign of the times, a knock-on effect of the digital
revolution and a keenness from retailers to roll out uniform brand
messaging across all of their stores, it does feel to me as though
some level of community integration has been lost. The process of
branding through architecture created destinations, landmarks and
Karl
meeting points in a city. They formed part of everyday conversation
and gave areas of the country their own distinctive identity.
In the same way that todays technology companies have
entered our common vocabulary; with terms such as Googling
news or Facebooking someone, retailers cohesion with the
community used to integrate into language in a similar way.
The original Burton the Tailors created brand-defining exterior
architecture in every one of its city locations across the UK. The
instantly recognisable, richly decorated, white tiled faade put the company in the eye-line and mind of the population on a daily
basis. This message was so strong, that for men going to buy a new
suit, a new colloquialism to befit its elevated standing amongst
the community was born: going for a Burton. The relationship
between the individual and the high street is seen as less important
now, with fewer people shopping and working in city centres.
Convenience and efficiency has for the most part taken over any
sense of community engagement.
Thats not to say that retailers are no longer creating these
brand-defining spaces, its just that they are now often retained
as the home of a brand and housed within an existing space.
For example, when Abercrombie and Fitch took over Burlington
Gardens in London, it let consumers experience the history and
personality of the brand in a spatial and interactive way. It was
grand, boastful and privileged, but so is the brand.
Aside from social differences between then and now, planning
permission and laws relating to brown field sites in city centres has
often left retailers with little option than to adapt existing buildings
into shopping units. This may reduce their ability to build from
scratch, but it doesnt stop them leaving their own architectural
mark on a city. Apple set a precedent for expending large sums of
money, putting its flagship stores in iconic buildings. Whilst its not
creating something new, locations such as the Opera store in Paris
and 5th Avenue in New York have become modern landmarks in
their own right. Taking its minimalistic, clean-cut vision of luxury,
Apple has used swathes of glass and metal to modernise parts of
buildings, leaving little doubt in the mind of the consumer as to
which brand owns the shop.
This change throughout our city centres is just a by-product
of the times, but I do personally look around at buildings and
miss the architectural branding that once made them so instantly
recognisable. So, as you travel around new cities during your
summer sojourn, take a minute to look up and around you, to take
in the buildings that were once as recognisable as the brands they
were made for.
column
McKeever
Karl McKeever is creative director of visual merchandising
and brand delivery consultancy Visual Thinking.
Email Karl at [email protected]
20
TED BAKER + MOORE
project focus
Design: In-house and FormRoomOpening date: June 2015Size: 557 sq m
Commercial Street, London
Ted Baker & Moore is the brands latest store concept that is
designed to shine a light on the wider world of Ted Baker, nestled
in the heart of East London at 132 Commercial Street. Created
by the brands special projects team, the store plays host to Ted
Bakers full lifestyle offering, from spectacles to bicycles and
everything in-between.
The stores bespoke interior harks back to the era of industrial
manufacturing and market traders of east London. A mix of
concrete floors, breeze block walls and steel beams house six
lifestyle shopping areas in the open plan and minimal environment,
encouraging shoppers to browse the rails while sipping coffee. A
glowing ampersand greets customers into the warehouse space,
while a floor-to-ceiling digital window displays ever-evolving
bespoke content, highlighting the wide range of product available
to purchase in-store.
FormRoom was invited to originate ideas and create designs
based on an exciting brief. Communicating a distinctive aesthetic
to the Ted Baker customer, the scope of works by FormRoom
included both bespoke shopfit units and sculptural elements in the
footwear, eyewear and watch departments.
The Wall of Frame, an impactful installation of half-faced busts,
forms an eye-catching display unit for Ted Bakers eyewear range.
Customers are encouraged to interact with items by changing
the glasses on each face, whilst motorised elements such as the
mechanical cog, with attached mannequin legs, and conveyor
21
project focus
Commercial Street, London
belt transforms the brands footwear range into a 3D spectacle.
Customers can browse the brands timeless watches from a striking
illuminated cityscape display made out of acrylic and glass.
Shoppers can take advantage of refreshments in the form
of the Everbean Coffee Shop in-store, selling a range of coffees
including a selection of espresso blends and filter coffees created
with beans sourced from the best British roasteries.
Another new concept for Commercial Street is a partnership
with Quella to create a capsule collection of British, copper-plated
bicycles in three classic colours: navy blue, racing green and ruby
red. These new bicycles will be sold alongside Ted Bakers Raising
the Handlebars cycle-friendly collection.
The store also features Ted Baker Audio, a bespoke collection
of stylish audio products, crafted to appeal to all the senses and
embracing all the fashionable advances that modern technology
has to offer.
Other items stocked at Commercial Street include watches,
gifting and stationery, fragrances and jewellery.
Male customers can take advantage of the Grooming Room for
a shave and a host of treatments. The Beauty Spot offers an array
of nail treatments for ladies, as well as lash and brow maintenance.
The brand has created its first virtual store, based on the
Commercial Street site. The high resolution panoramic photography
software draws on three dimensional mapping and enables
the store to be a fully transactional online platform. Customers
worldwide will be able to experience this one-of-a-kind Ted Baker
shop by roaming around the space, picking up items to view in
closer detail and interact with their store surroundings.
Introducing Perspex NaturalsBringing Beauty to the Surface
- Inspired by the simple beauty of nature- Textured surface with the aesthetic appeal of stone- 6 standard colours- Hard wearing & ideal for the retail environment
For more information visit www.perspex.co.uk
Perspex is a registered trademark of Lucite International, a member of the Mitsubishi Rayon Group.
C
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Perspex Naturals Advert draft.pdf 10/17/2014 3:51:25 PM
23
project focus
Design: Househam Henderson Architects and Elemental DesignOpening date: June 2015Size: 300 sq m
THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANySeven Dials, London
The Cambridge Satchel Company opened
its first mens store in June, located in Seven
Dials, Covent Garden. The new concept
store, developed by Househam Henderson,
offers gents the opportunity to shop the
brands accessories, under one roof, and
coincided with the launch of the brands
first full mens collection.
This site was the brands original
Covent Garden store, on Shorts Gardens,
prior to its opening of the bigger James
Street flagship.
All bespoke joinery, metalwork and
spray finishing throughout the store was
produced by Elemental Design at its
Brixton-based studios and manufacturing
workshops. Julie Deane, CEO and founder
of The Cambridge Satchel Company,
briefed Elemental Designs owner, Gary
Porter, explaining the origins of the brand
24
and its very British heritage as colourful,
confident and original. She wanted the
store to be an eclectic mix with an element
of discovery and intellect; a cool, urban,
modern mens boutique.
Elemental designed a quirky
environment, blending curiosity shop,
homely library and gentlemans club. The
store was divided into three spaces The
Front Room, The Reception and The
Conservatory. Nothing was structurally
changed and the original, dark, stone floor
was left the same. A mixed colour palette
of mustard yellow, muted mint green, pale
duck egg blue, rich oxblood, mid grey,
deep teal and ink black has been used
throughout. This was translated by Porters
local East Dulwich paint specialist, Colour
Makes People Happy, which created
bespoke colours for the project such as Hot
English Mustard and Old-school Satchel.
Adding to this, three wallpapers from
London interiors supplier, Andrew Martin,
provide richness and texture including a
Trompe Loeil bookcase design.
On entering the shop, the brightly
coloured Front Room has a welcoming
residential quality but in the simplistic
style of a theatre set, complete with a
bright mustard, faux-stone fireplace and
a false door. Homely yet tasteful objects,
sourced from vintage stores and markets,
as well as a few Graham & Green, Heals,
Conran, Matthew Williamson and Mineheart
accessories, give the room a stylish and
consistent personality; world-travelled and
quintessentially British.
Collections of brass instruments,
ceramic dogs or artists brushes allude to
the lifestyle of the Cambridge Satchel man.
Classic, English, mid-century Ladderax
shelving lines one wall and a high-level,
perimeter shelf is lined with faux, leather
book spines and knick-knacks you
might find in a pub. Mid-floor fixtures are
fashioned out of a mismatched grouping
of tables from various antique dealers,
sprayed in a high gloss grey standing on
a grey, over-dyed Persian rug. The visual
merchandising makes the product come
alive in an original way, using toolboxes,
travel trunks, board games, and even
dartboards to further communicate the
brands story.
The Reception area was designed
to provide a brand-enhancing lobby,
accommodating the cash desk. Here,
inspiration has been taken from The Wren
Library in Cambridge with its rhythmic rows
of shelving, wood panelling and marble
busts. Interpreting this, there are three rows
of modern shelving units, infinitely reflected
in mirror, with lacquered, mustard end
panels, with a hint of classic mouldings.
A nod to the white busts is found in a
small collection on the cash desk around
a Napoleon-bust table lamp and three
unusual pendant bust lights in the skylight.
The dominating feature in this area is a
large, arched faux window behind the desk
with a backlit vista of St Andrews College,
transporting the viewer to Cambridge.
Other walls in this area are covered in
framed prints; again diverse in their style,
they reflect an Englishmans hobbies and
interests, from fishing to fashion, and even
urban graffiti.
On entering the front door theres a
noticeable contrasting mood of the back
room, which features a luxurious oxblood
focal wall and rug, alongside picture lights
that illuminate four intriguing canvases,
and a very different quality of light from
the recessed skylight. The skylight was
highlighted by framing it in a relief frieze,
almost gothic, but in a contemporary
CNC-cut style. Elemental Design named
this The Conservatory but theres no sign of
plants. Its more the kind of conservatory
associated with schooling, or a place to
conserve. Here, we educate, inform and
interact, says Porter.
The story of leatherworking, and the
making of the bags, is found in a traditional
museum cabinet. Swatches of different
leathers invite the customer to touch and
compare. Most importantly, this room
also homes the embossing station, where
shoppers can have their items personalised.
A long Chesterfield sofa makes the wait very
comfortable, amongst wall-to-wall satchels.
Quirky pieces like the upcycled grandfather
clock and mischievous monkey lights keep
visitors entertained.
project focus
2015-06 Retail Focusemb.indd 1 26/06/2015 12:47:04
26
NICKELODEON
project focus
Design: Entertainment Retail Enterprises and Smart DesignOpening date: May 2015Size: 418 sq m
Leicester Square, London
Nickelodeon has opened its first flagship store in Europe at
1 Leicester Square, London. With a 116 sq m glass frontage, the store
offers a great brand building opportunity while offering a one-of-a-
kind Nickelodeon experience and personal touch points with fans
from around the world.
The spirit of the store holds true with the Nickelodeon mission
to create surprising and playful experiences. It also represents a
great benchmark for the creation of future flagship locations in
global territories, explains Clare Wallace, store director at The
Nickelodeon Store.
The site spans two floors and more than 418 sq m, offering
children and families the opportunity to experience and interact
with one of the worlds leading childrens brands as well as much
loved properties including SpongeBob SquarePants, Teenage
Mutant Ninja Turtles and Dora the Explorer. The store is bursting
with technology and interactive elements, including state-of-the-
art multi-media elements and more than 40 LCD screens create
a compelling showcase for the Nickelodeon brand and key
properties.
This is one of the only places in the world where all these
properties are represented in one place. There are more than
800 different items across all categories with over 80 per cent
of the assortment customised exclusively for The Nickelodeon
Store and not available elsewhere. The Leicester Square store
features merchandise collections created exclusively for London,
27
project focus
explains Wallace.
There are unique interactive elements including the Pineapple
iPad bar and simple activities like colouring opportunities
underneath the Dora Tree. And dont be surprised if you run into
SpongeBob posing for photographs with customers in the store.
A green slime staircase takes shoppers up to Bikini Bottom
where they can come face to face with SpongeBob SquarePants
in daily meet and greets. Additionally the store offers a pre-school
zone, a New York City skyline graffiti-decorated Teenage Mutant
Ninja Turtle area and Union Jack-branded gifting, stationery,
apparel, homeware and souvenirs.
Teething problems during the design process included
the location specifically the age of the building and the
structure itself. That took a lot of work, rework, recalibration and
modification. Because of some of the structural challenges and
spatial limitations we had to modify some of the design and
interactive elements to fit the space. But it worked and initial
customer response is all positive. That is one of our key measures,
continues Wallace.
To date, Nickelodeon and Summit Retail International have
opened five stores in Panama, Saudi Arabia (2014) and Honduras
(February 2015), with more stores scheduled for late 2015/2016.
29
Theres no denying that beauty is big business. The sector
remained extremely buoyant even through the worst of the
economic crisis. However, its also hugely competitive and over
recent years there has been an explosion in the number of new
brands entering the market along with a myriad of specialist
online retailers.
In a sector where loyalty is hard won, this means theres a
constant battle to achieve stand out, even for the most established
brands and retailers, says Colin Chapman, operations director at
CJ Retail Solutions. Yet all too often a consumer will go into store
and find there are no testers available a sure fire way of losing a
sale or that the much hyped new product launch they have seen
in a magazine is not even there. This simply isnt good enough.
Within this fiercely competitive sector, display compliance, both
during installation and long-term, is crucial. New launches, the life
blood of many cosmetics brands, have to be seamlessly executed
across all channels, including in store.
Lighting is a proven method of achieving differentiation, notes
Chapman, attracting consumers to fixtures and elevating ranges to
a premium positioning, with a shift to LED lighting in recent years.
He also suggests integrating digital POS into displays,
meaning that more indepth information about products can be
communicated something that can be invaluable for highlighting
USPs and educating shoppers about key ingredients. In addition,
digital POS solutions, such as Radio Frequency Identification and
touch screen displays, make shopping interactive, exciting and
interesting for customers guaranteed to make a brand or retailer
stand out from the competition.
Technology is widely used to capture data about the customer
to monitor their purchasing patterns, and to tailor science to
individual customers needs. Working recently with Geneu,
Elemental Design learnt that its the first beauty brand to offer
in-store DNA testing, in order to totally personalise skincare. The
design of retail spaces, or displays for beauty brands like these,
borders on the clinical or medical, and the designer can be limited
to minimalist, white/monochrome themes, explains Gary Porter,
founding director of Elemental Design. Theres no link here to
beautiful environments, or the glamour of fashion; the design can
be somewhat cold and sterile. These environments require testing
stations, private consultation pods, scientific equipment and
abundant computer/LED screens.
In stark contrast he says its the fragrance brands that celebrate
colour and drama, and the theatrical lengths they go to to
attract the shopper are especially evident in the pop-up sites in
department stores. My experience is, its actually the department
stores, like Selfridges, that are driving this trend. The demand for
genuinely creative, in-store experiential environments is growing, as
the stores realise this is what truly sets them apart, from the online
shopping market, says Porter.
Engaging customers is the ultimate goal and, especially in
London, the shopper needs an element of novelty. Something
In the fiercely competitive sector of beauty retail, achieving stand out is key. Cue a host of beauty hall revamps, pop-ups and digital POS.
SKIN DEEP: BEAUTY RETAIL
Above: Barber Design created a high-end boutique
environment in Richmond for LA Muscle to showcase
its nutritional supplements.
beauty retail
30
beauty retail
interactive or digital that they havent come across before is most
likely to stop them and get their attention, believes Porter. He says
in these usually very competitive environments, where each brand is
vying for the customer, its frequently the use of technology that will
win. We used something called Pufferfish projection for Lancme,
which is a completely spherical ball screen containing internal
projectors. Moreover, its touch sensitive and allows the viewer to
brush aside one layer of content to reveal another below. Lancme
was promoting eye shadows, and while we used mostly content that
had been shot in a studio, we were also able to upload footage
of the customer, in real time, and delight them with images of their
own freshly applied eye make-up, explains Porter
Its one thing designing a concession for a single brand but
a whole other area of specialisation to allow multiple brands to
feature in a space they share with their competitors, says Michael
Sheridan, chairman and founder of Sheridan&Co. Designing an
interior that provides a platform for multiple brands is demanding
but also crucial in a sense of setting the scene and providing an
environment where customers are prepared to shop and discuss
the intimacy of their beauty. Ambience is a definitive constituent
and within that lighting is key to ensure not just brands but the
products are clearly visible and able to emphasise what is often the
subtlety of different shades. Overall, layout is essential to make sure
there is visibility and to emphasise the range and choice of brands
on offer.
There are quite a few differences between fashion and beauty
that affect interior design. Firstly, the size of the product is very
different; cosmetics products are very small and usually presented
around types, lipsticks, blushers etc. or parts of the face lips, eyes
etc. The emphasis is on getting customers to try the product in
a sense of what artistry or technique in application is right for
individual customers. Whereas a garment is pretty much a yes or
a no around quality, style and fit. In terms of display, a garment
speaks for itself whereas beauty products need more explanation
either in words of through images of someone made-up. Customer
journey is a key aspect of beauty, knowing where to go depending
on a customers needs is key, continues Sheridan.
Emma Dicks, insights director at creative shopper marketing
agency HRG UK, says beauty retail can be a cluttered and
confusing category. Not only is product trial a key part of the
shoppers decision-making process, but finding ways to reaffirm
brand equity and capture shopper imaginations through eye-
catching displays is also vital. I dont necessarily think that
shoppers are researching products in-store like they used to do.
Instead, they are entering a store with much more education about
what product they want and why beauty bloggers/vloggers have
made such a huge impact online in introducing new products to
consumers, notes Dicks.
Naturally, beauty retail is a sector with such a strong focus on
the visual focus. As such its one where only 100 per cent perfection
will do. But for some beauty brands, its increasingly less about the
creative and more about the materials used, says Dicks. Obviously
premium materials are key, but also the sustainability of those
materials and the kind of chemicals and products being displayed
on them need to be a consideration, to ensure the materials are
actually satisfactory to use; for instance, how ingredients naturally
found in some perfumes could affect the materials specified.
You also need to consider the dust created by shoppers
constantly testing powders, and the effect that that could have on
the unit. Dicks also says consider the lighting being used on the
unit, as this can be critical when demonstrating colour and shade
to shoppers. The ambient lighting can change the colour of items,
which could be an issue for shoppers trying to match colours.
For Amuse Beauty Studio at Sydney Airport, Portland worked
with LS travel retail Pacific to design a scheme for customers who
From top: Virgile + Partners concept for House of
Elemis in Mayfair evokes an intimate residential
approach; Sheridan&Co provided the interior design
for Feel Unique in Guernsey; Portland worked on the
design of AMUSE Beauty Studio at Sydney Airport.
see beauty as personal and seek opportunities to explore the latest
beauty trends. Our aim was to create a beauty experience that
supports customers to playfully explore the world of beauty. The
Amuse design immerses customers in imaginative and interactive
beauty stories where they can explore and experiment with looks
and styles. The concept of a studio is used as the key platform to
deliver this exploration experience to customers, explains Lewis
Allen, director of environments at Portland. He continues: Intense
bursts of colour set against dark gloss finishes provide an energetic
and dynamic feel while lighting features running through the studio
31
beauty retail
travel retail, but in response to the consumer its become very much
more personal, honest and exciting.
When designing beauty retail environments, the consumer is
at the forefront of the designers mind. The perception of age,
for example, is now a mindset not a date of birth, and how we
communicate with the consumer and the tone of voice will change.
Words like anti-aging will no longer be seen on packaging, and
the packaging itself will be simpler, and the environment needs to
respond accordingly, believes Jackson.
House of Elemis in Mayfair has received a makeover. Virgile
+ Partners created an intimate residential atmosphere, with the
feeling of being in the House of the brand. The space combines
the ambiance of Bond Street luxury with the young spirit and
accessibility of contemporary brands. The combination of retail and
spa treatments, sometimes compromised in a department store
situation due to their restrictions and use of space, is liberated here,
creating an experience that combines beauty and science, the two
components of the offer, making it more experiential and personal.
Its designed to appeal to women and men alike through a
contemporary and elegant design, that has an inherent British
quality without the usual clichs. A mix of timber and parquet floors
with a soft neutral but warm colour palette enhance the presence
of the product rather than compete with it.
Transparency and glow, both inherent in the quality of the
skin, were important in the scheme, always playing with light and
soft reflections in the presence of the backlit skin membrane that
creates the signature background to the product display. Pattern,
textures and sculptural forms are also present in the furniture
design such as in the playful central interactive bar and the
greeting reception table.
For the new LA Muscle Boutique in Richmond, Barber Design
created a high-end boutique environment, breaking away from
conventional and cluttered supplement stores. The store is all
about the customer experience with the highlight on educating its
clients about supplements and not overloading the customer with
miscellaneous and irrelevant information. Through this technique
the customer is encouraged to enter into a consultation with the
in-store experts and be recommended products tailored to their
needs. Each product is displayed on individually designed plinths
highlighted with lighting to make each product stand out. Another
unique part of the experience includes the bespoke designed
sleek muscle bar where customers will be able to sample and learn
how to use its supplements. A gold framed LED video wall towards
the back of the store showcases LA Muscles Active Channel to help
customers interact with the brand.
Voisins, the largest department store in Jersey, has recently
given its beauty hall a revamp with the help of Umbrella Design.
David Elliott, business development director at Voisins, had a clear
brief to drive exclusivity and further cement the stores position
as the premier shopping destination on Jersey. Our job was to
reimagine a space that would persuade exciting new brands to
make the island their home, whilst convincing brands that were
already there to make Voisins their flaghip presence, explains
Mark Fanthorpe, founder of Umbrella. It was an exercise in space
planning and ergonomic design. Working with David Elliott and
Gerald Voisin, we stripped away everything that didnt work and
evolved what remained, so it delivered a beautiful showcase
that performed commercially. We set about reorganising the
brand journey and improving sightlines by widening the aisles
and removing obstructions. After all, if the shopper cant see
your product, they cant buy it. The Voisins beauty department
demonstrates that you dont have to spend a fortune to produce
something that drives growth. Sometimes its a case of intelligently
moving things around, so that you fully tap the potential of what
youve got.
are reminiscent of catwalk fashion shows, emphasising the finger
on the pulse approach to the world of beauty. Exploration is
encouraged in a number of ways.
Gregor Jackson, partner at gpstudio, has a number of beauty
retail projects keeping his studio busy, including new designs
for the Shinsegae beauty hall in Korea, the Avanti beauty floor in
Jeddah and a Laure beauty and frangrance boutique in Ryadh.
Jackson says: Beauty retail was once presented very much like
Below from top: Este Lauder global travel retail
installation by HRG; For Lancme, Elemental Design
used Pufferfish projection, a completely spherical
ball screen that contains internal projectors;
gpstudios concept for Shinsegae beauty hall in
Korea; Voisins new beauty department created by
Umbrella Design.
Spring/Summer 2015
Fashion on Show
NewsResourceful VMBarthelmess Vision 2015
Brand exhibitions
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - Romantic Nationalism Gallery
Nouveau Edit
Skye
Jersey Girl
Collection L Jersey Boy
Jersey Kids
Nouveau
020 8752 2520 panachedisplay.co.uk
Cover image:
Alexander McQueen:
Savage Beauty - Romantic
Nationalism Gallery
47
Welcome to the summer edition of VM Focus. On P37 you can catch up with the latest news from the VM industry. Gemma Balmford takes a look at the role of fashion exhibitions on pages 39-40 and finds
out what makes fashion-themed exhibitions such a hit with the public.
Banana Republics recent Think Outside The Bottle scheme was a great source of inspiration for our resourceful
VM article on pages 45-46, proving that the use of recycled items can create a real talking point in windows. The
brand is currently undergoing a completely new way of thinking, and it will be interesting to see what window
schemes it develops over the coming months.
Paul Symes, head of visual presentation at Fortnum & Mason, shares his thoughts on how stores and windows
are returning to theatrical showcases. As each week goes by, I see more and more shops realising that a great
window display not only entices potential customers into the shop to spend their cash, but can do wonders for
the brands identity, says Symes. The more clever, better presented the display, the more the store gets noticed
and mentioned; whether that be in casual conversation or online through avenues such as Instagram.
Lyndsey Dennis
Editor
EditorLyndsey Dennis
t. +44 (0)7500 138 810
Production & WebTerry Clark
t. +44 (0)845 680 7405
Display SalesLee Cullumbine
t. +44 (0)845 680 7405
37News 45 Reuse and Recycle: Resourceful VM
39 Fashion on Show: Brand exhibitions
37 News The latest news from the visual merchandising and
display industry.
39 Fashion on Show: Brand exhibitions The rising allure of the fashion exhibition.
42 Barthelmess Vision 2015 Highlights from the Barthelmess Vision 2015 event in
Barcelona.
45 Reuse and Recycle: Resourceful VM Keeping costs down without compromising on visual
appeal.
52 Opinion Paul Symes, head of visual presentation at Fortnum and
Mason, discusses how stores and windows are returning
to theatrical showcases.
Welcome
www.retail-focus.co.uk
35
52 Opinion
42 Barthelmess Vision 2015
37
news
Following on from Bonaveris launch of
the Aloof female Schlppi mannequin, the
company has launched a male equivalent
called Noble.
Sculptor Marco Furlani, who was
involved with the Aloof collection, has
worked in the Bonaveri studio exploring
shapes for Noble that honour his female
counterpart and provide it with its own
strong sense of individuality.
Bonaveri joined forces with award-
winning British menswear designer Lee
Roach and artist Filippo Maria on a
site-specific installation during London
Bonaveri launches Noble male Schlppi collection
Entries are open for the 11th VM & Display
Awards, which take place on 19 November
2015 at a new venue, the Bloomsbury Big
Top in London. You can enter online via
www.vmanddisplay.com and can enter as
many projects from 1 August 2014 - 1 August
2015 in as many categories as you like. The
deadline for entries is 14 August 2015.
For table or ticket enquiries please contact
the awards team on T: 01945 420 068 or
COMPONENTS is the latest range of
male and female mannequins with
interchangeable details to be launched by
proportion>london.
In direct contrast to the fast-paced
nature of fashion and retail (where
everything has a life of only one season),
heirlooming is an intelligent design
movement gradually gaining momentum in
the world of VM. Aware of the very practical
Sarah Bailey and Jonathan Baker,
course directors at London College
of Fashion, have launched Portugese
and Spanish versions of their Visual
Merchandising for Fashion book
at ISEM Fashion Business School
in Madrid. It leads the reader from
the initial design process through to
product handling and experimentation,
supporting and enabling conceptual
thinking while developing and
communicating visual ideas creatively
and professionally.
Visual Merchandising for Fashion book launched
Photographer: Charles Moriarty
Entries open for VM & Display Awards
Collections Men to launch the new
mannequin collection.
Noble is available in five core poses
and like the Aloof collection is available in
mirrored positions for versatile groupings.
He is available in plain standing, standing
astride, walking and seated poses with
various head and arm configurations.
need for mass production combined
with the desire for elite product,
proportion>london created COMPONENTS
to be humble in style yet genius in design.
The simple repeat positioned bodies
are the mass produced part, while the
head, arms and hands can be lavished
with more expensive and artisanal detail
to create individual looks.
proportion>london unveils COMPONENTS range
NOBLE NEW MALE COLLECTION
ww
w.b
onav
eri.c
om
Blue Studio Trading LtdUnit 8A. The Piper Building.Peterborough Road, London. SW6 3EFT: 020 7394 2813 E: [email protected] W: www.blue-studio.co.uk
39
Since opening in March, the highly
anticipated Alexander McQueen: Savage
Beauty exhibition at Londons V&A Museum
has attracted close to 300,000 visitors. The
exhibition web pages have been viewed
more than 2.1 million times and the Museum
of Savage Beauty web feature, which gives
an insight into the techniques, inspiration
and stories behind 27 of the objects on
display, has been seen some 128,000
times. Expanding on the original version
of the show at the Metropolitan Museum
of Art, New York in 2011, Savage Beauty is,
in fact, one of the most ambitious fashion
exhibitions the V&A has ever staged.
And its not the first time a fashion
exhibition has attracted a large audience.
In 2012, a retrospective celebrating 20 years
of French shoe designer Christian Louboutin
at Londons Design Museum drew record
crowds, while The Fashion World of Jean
Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the
Catwalk has enticed more than a million
visitors on its international tour. So, what is it
that makes fashion-themed exhibitions such
a hit with the public?
People are responding to the
enticement of glamour connected with
fashion, says Sonnet Stanfill, fashion
curator at the V&A. Although we all wear
clothes, the element of fantasy offered by
high fashion transcends the pedestrian
and everyday functionality of clothing. Well
curated exhibitions of fashion highlight
elements of craftsmanship, of showmanship
and of creative inspiration that extend
beyond the ordinary.
Just as Lee Alexander McQueen studied
the V&As public collections of tailoring,
painting, art, photography and books as
inspiration for his visionary work, designers
and other creatives have visited Savage
Beauty for visual stimulation and inspiration.
Each section of the exhibition - the first and
largest retrospective of the late designers
work to be presented in Europe - captures
the essence of McQueens provocative,
dramatic and extravagant catwalk
presentations, through installation, music
and film.
Savage Beauty is a celebration of the
most imaginative and talented designer
of our time, says Sarah Burton, creative
director at Alexander McQueen. Lee was
Text: Gemma Balmford
FASHION ON SHOW
Alexander McQueen:
Savage Beauty exhibition.
Installation view of
Romantic Primitivism
gallery at the Victoria and
Albert Museum, London.
fashion exhibitions
The rising allure of the fashion exhibition
a genius and a true visionary who pushed
boundaries, challenged and inspired. He
believed in creativity and innovation, and
his talent was limitless.
For Christian Louboutins first UK
exhibition, design agency Household was
tasked with creating a show experience
that celebrated the designers 20 years
of design and captured the artistry and
theatricality of his craft.
Designer brands have a creative and
craft story to tell that positively sets them
apart from the high street and, in turn,
justifies the higher price tag and explains
the force behind the brand, says Michelle
Du-Prt, customer experience director
at Household Design. Given the tactility
of fashion, telling this story in a living,
breathing space plays to the richer qualities
of designer brands.
Designers are viewed by their
collections and are in a constant state of
40
fashion exhibitions
next, adds Du-Prt. Curating a body
of work that embraces achievements well
beyond the collection is something not
often seen and creates an entirely new
dimension to what filters through to the
shopper and the shop floor.
Essentially, fashion exhibitions make
luxury brands accessible to a wider group
of people. Its escapism into an exclusive
are able to buy into the brand, he says.
Possibly the most successful exhibitions are
from those brands which have a story to tell
through a long history and a substantial
archive to show.
With the Salvatore Ferragamo museum
in Florence, the Fondazione Prada in Milan
and the new Louis Vuitton Foundation in
Paris, Du-Prt anticipates more brands
opening galleries and museums in the
future to showcase the history and heritage
of the labels. The question is, she says, are
further fashion brands just going to do more
of the same, or is there an opportunity to do
something different?
From left top to bottom right:
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
exhibition. Installation view of the
Romantic Exoticism gallery and
London gallery at the Victoria and
Albert Museum, London; French
shoe designer Christian Louboutin
collaborated with Household Design for
his retrospective at the Design Museum;
Fashion-themed exhibitions reflect the
changing nature of society and public
interest in fashion-related subjects, says
Tanya Reynolds of mannequin company
proportion>london, which has been
involved in a number of exhibitions,
including Hello my name is Paul Smith
at the Design Museum.
world, claims Du-Prt.
Jonathan Baker, course director
at London College of Fashion and VM
consultant, agrees that such events help
to demystify the brand, which by the
very nature of their exclusivity appear
intimidating to most. Although brands dont
always attract customers immediately after
these events, they may have initiated a few
of them who have turned up out of curiosity
but may become customers as soon as they
Life on Foot is a current exhibition at Londons Design Museum,
marking the 40 year anniversary of Spanish footwear brand,
Camper. Open until November, the exhibition uses some of the
brands most recognisable styles as lenses through which to
explore the design, manufacturing and history of the independent
family run business.
Taking visitors from the design studios in Mallorca to high-
tech mass production facilities in the Far East, and onto shop
floors across the globe, the exhibition includes recreations of retail
spaces designed by Nendo, Jaime Hayon, and Kengo Kuma, as
well as interviews with company founder Lorenzo Fluxa and creative
director Romain Kremer, and previously unseen material from the
companys archives.
Camper worked with Universal Design Studio to create an
exhibition that illustrates how the company has grown from humble
beginnings to become a global shoe brand. It was imperative that
the exhibition should also convey Campers distinct attitude that
prevails through all of their outputs - characteristics of lightness,
play and humour, with a focus on the role of the unexpected,
positioning Camper as the non-conformist, comment Hannah
Carter Owers and Jason Holley of Universal Design Studio.
For the cost of an exhibition ticket, people can now enjoy a
rich and engaging cultural experience courtesy of their favourite
fashion house, say Carter Owers and Holley on the rise of fashion
exhibitions. [Luxury fashion brands] invest heavily in the arts
and the universes they create are fascinating. In terms of product,
the brands remain unobtainable for many because of price point,
which creates a certain allure.
Life on Foot
Image: Life on Foot at Londons Design Museum marks the 40th anniversary of Spanish footwear brand, Camper. Image credit: Jill Tate
THE ORIGINAL
CELEBRATING 40 YEARS IN BUSINESS
56 PAGE CATALOGUE ON REQUEST
URBAN VINTAGE RETAIL DISPLAY
The Urban Vintage collection from Andy Thornton includes a complete
range of industrial-style retail display products including shelving units,
garment rails, drawer units, cabinets, trolleys and display tables,
plus furniture, decorative lighting and tin tiles.
Send for your copy.
Call: 01422 376000 Email: [email protected]
Online: andythornton.com
AT-RetailFocus-2015-June2015.indd 1 29/06/2015 16:19
42
Barthelmess Vision 2015
Barthelmess Group once again hosted
its annual international future congress
VISION in June. This year, around 70 visual
marketing experts met in Barcelonas
impressive W Hotel. Successful trade
concepts, challenges of the future,
perspectives, innovation and, in particular,
intensive networking were the main focus.
The main part of the event took place in
the cultural centre of El Born (El Born Centre
Cultural), the archaeological site of the
district. Within this setting, speakers from the
fields of architecture, visual merchandising,
research and economy offered participants
completely different perspectives and
numerous insights into the present and
exciting views of the future.
Visual merchandising consultant,
Grald Grare opened the programme
and took the participants from Barcelona
to Tokyo. Using numerous examples, he
illustrated the Japanese consumer and
lifestyle mentality and compared it to that of
European consumers. He also highlighted
the influence of fashion and architecture on
store concepts and visual merchandising
against this cultural and sociological
background.
The paper given by future and
innovation expert Stephan Jung provided
a thorough look into the future and
opened up perspectives for potentials and
opportunities, trends and new approaches
in the field of trade. He introduced seven
innovative strategies for significantly
increasing sales, profit and customer
satisfaction. Using easily-implementable
best practice examples, his theories can
easily be adapted to the daily work of all
of us.
The keynote address was delivered
by consultant Dr Christian Mikunda, the
founder of strategic retail dramaturgy.
He dealt with the importance of staged
locations for getting customers full
attention, arousing good feelings in them
and extending their dwell time at the
BARTHELMESS VISION 2015Highlights from the Barthelmess VISION 2015 event in Barcelona last month.
POS. In his lecture, which was tailored
to the specific individual needs of the
participants, Dr Mikunda explained
the psychological mechanisms behind
professionally created experiences. His
fascinating system is based on seven
feelings of elation Glory, Joy, Power,
Bravura, Desire, Intensity and Chill and
symbolises what consumers really want to
experience: culture at the highest emotional
level, experiences of nature that change
our lives, life-style scenarios in which
commodities are connected with real and
profound experiences. Based on many
examples from Barcelona, he showed how
consumers can be offered this welcome
seduction.
Dr Mikunda subsequently took
participants in small groups on a tour
around selected retail outlets in Barcelona
calling, amongst other places, at Jaime
Beriestain, Replay, Vincon, Magnolia Antic,
Cortana and Coqutte and conveying, in
an entertaining and tangible way, the
dramaturgy and staging of the shops.
The third day was reserved for making
further forays, exchanging views and
personal networking. In small groups,
the participants evaluated various store
concepts on the basis of their newly-
acquired knowledge and from new
perspectives.
Next year, Barthelmess Groups
VISION 2016 will prepare the ground for an
international visual marketing network and
inspire participants with new visions, trends,
innovations and interesting speakers.
For further information call Barthelmess UK
on 01438 724 605. www.barthelmessuk.com
vision &Experts in Christmas Design and Production
Christmas Factory
Global Manufacturing and Logistics
CNL bespoke designed Mannequins and Forms
Decorado off the shelf decor and props
e: [email protected] t: 01438 318634 - 724065
www.barthelmessuk.com
BarthelmessUK
inspiration
established nam
e.
fresh ideas.
V2_July_2015.indd 1 08/07/2015 12:08
harlequin-design.com
twitter.com/HarlequinLondonfacebook.com/harlequindesignlondon
+44(0)20 7253 6238
Harlequin Design (London) Ltd.4th Floor 26/27 Great Sutton Street,London EC1V 0DS
Retail concepts.Window designs.Instore environments.Prototyping.Prop sourcing.Global production.Logistics.Distribution.Installation.
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Harlequin Ad.pdf 24/6/15 13:28:34
45
Making a statement doesnt have to be expensive. Theres no harm
in being clever with budgets and creating inspiring displays by
recycling items and reusing props, mannequins and fittings.
Banana Republic recently made a sustainable statement
with its Think Outside The Bottle windows. The beach was the
inspiration behind a series of installations in its windows, starting in
America and then implemented in the UK. Cardboard boxes were
crafted into waves and the sun, while recycled bottles were used
to litter the retailers windows rather than beaches. A portion of
the savings from the window displays will be donated to the Nature
Conservancy for research and preservation of oceans and beaches
along the California coastline.
The beach inspiration of the collection inspired Banana
Republic to think more about environmental awareness; not trying
to solve issues but bringing awareness, beginning a conversation
and taking small steps to improve, explains Sianne Meekcoms,
senior account manager at Harlequin Design that worked on the
scheme. Banana Republic has a new way of thinking: Everywhere
we look we see a new way of thinking about how we take care
of our earth. We were inspired to do something too, by recycling,
reusing and saving energy in our windows. Its one small step, and
were just getting started. Using bottles and cardboard made great
use of items available locally that would otherwise go to waste and
created a compelling story.
Meekcoms believes resourceful VM is a great idea: This
scheme shows that getting creative with what is freely available
works well. Its great to get local VM teams involved more and as
the window displays sometimes live for only a few weeks, another
benefit is that recycling keeps costs down.
Selfridges currently has a window also filled with recycled
bottles to promote its ongoing Project Ocean work, a partnership
between the store and The Zoological Society of London to stop
overfishing and pollution and protect our oceans through the
creation of marine reserves.
Carl Smallshaw, senior business development manager at
Visual Thinking and former store design project manager for
George, shares Meekcoms passion for resourceful VM. Im all for
innovative ideas and forward thinking, but there is also no shame
in rescuing old fixtures and fittings, freshening them up and giving
them a new purpose, he says.
Something that Visual Thinking did for Creature Company on
the latest series of Alex Polizzi The Fixer on BBC2. As part of the
makeover, Visual Thinkings team suggested upcycling many of
the original fittings as a great way to improve the visual impact
of interior design, merchandising and displays whilst keeping
renovation costs to a minimum a key consideration for almost
every small, independent retailer. A new service desk was made out
of reclaimed furniture to complement the kitsch 1950s design theme,
whilst smaller display tables were used to create impactful focal
points for featured products.
Whilst recycling and, more recently, up-cycling are seen to
be a current trend, in reality a good VM scheme has always had
a keen eye for turning something unloved into the proverbial silk
purse, with visual merchandisers often conscious that there may be
something that could be salvaged, refurbished and worked into
a new window scheme, continues Smallshaw. Reclaimed crates
REUSE AND RECYCLE: RESOURCEFUL VM
Above: Banana Republic windows by Harlequin Design.
Below: Arty Wigs offers mannequin renovations and repairs.
resourceful VM
Keeping costs down without compromising on visual appeal.
Photographer: Melvyn Vincent
46
resourceful VM
used as shelving, old sewing tables deployed as focal points,
charming vintage props recycling and up-cycling VM equipment
is not only on trend, but also an imaginative way to create a more
immersive, experiential retail experience that encourages shoppers
to lift their heads and rediscover the delights of instore.
Smallshaw says resourcefulness is often second nature but its
imperative that teams are aware of product life cycles, developing
material trends, environmental targets and their own companys
green agenda.
Another great example is the latest store concept by Wickes. A
total of 95 per cent of the store, including timber used for display
elements, such as primary display fixturing, focal points and
browsing and tools tables, is made from and using materials and
products shoppers can buy instore. As well as being resourceful, it
delivers a retail environment that is truly authentic and connected
with the brand.
Being ethical is still a way a brand can achieve differentiation
and a unique selling point, believes Jonathan Baker, course
director at London College of Fashion and VM consultant. Visual
merchandising design can have a unique role in providing
solutions which could address the global problem. While Im not
suggesting that a brand simply design a green theme, eco window
or create props from old tyres and recycled paper, its worth looking
further indepth at these areas. Visual merchandising is only one
small albeit crucial cog in the retail and design world but it does
nonetheless need a sustainability philosophy to be a part of this,
which is currently only being explored in a limited way.
Baker says sustainability can be approached in three
main areas: social, economic and environmental. Good
visual merchandising design is good business, communicates
additional messages to the consumer, promotes choice and
brand identification, facilitates sales and of course is part of the
shopping experience. However, multiple resources are wasted in
this process unnecessarily. We are increasingly breeding a new
type of customer who will scrutinise everything we do in visual
merchandising and retail design for its environmental impact and
sustainability and therefore this is worth consideration. Steps to
recognise the benefits of building a sustainable growth strategy
should begin at the VM design stage and include the store
build and architecture as well as the micro visual merchandising
elements such as fixtures, mannequins and props, says Baker.
He acknowledges Banana Republics recent scheme, as well
as Pharrel Williams collaboration with G-star; very interesting as
the product has been made from recycled plastic which was found
in the sea. The scheme was only really a large graphic so not
particularly interesting but the idea is amazing.
Lucky Foxs recent scheme for Levis Customisation collection
had resourcefulness in mind. All of the collection was displayed in
modular plywood trunks and cases that were re-purposed from a
press day the team had built for Levis earlier in the year.
With the high street continuing to be a competitive and
challenging landscape, a lot of our clients are looking for ways
to make their VM schemes more resourceful by reusing as many
parts of their schemes as possible, explains Jason Traves, head
of creative at Lucky Fox. The lifespan of a VM scheme is now an
important consideration for many retailers, who will cleverly invest in
creative for their flagship stores that is generic enough to be filtered
down to other stores or instore schemes. This is not only resourceful
but also economical.
Traves says many big brands now have a corporate
responsibility in regards to the sustainability of all of their
companys activity, including their VM creative. Whether that be a
focus on using recycled materials or brands being more mindful of
the carbon footprint of the materials they use in a VM scheme.
Were also seeing large retailers scaling back their window
creative to be more resourceful. Cos Stores recent sale windows
are a beautiful example of how to achieve simple yet effective
creative. Using basic shelving lined with a row of plants, set against
a simple sale decal backdrop, the windows show that retailers dont
need to spend a lot of money on their creative, notes Traves.
Global Display spent two years researching the most suitable
materials and processes to create stylish and elegant designs
with sustainable and environmentally responsible credentials. The
Eco range of mannequins is of comparable strength and cost to
equivalent glass fibre ones. Eco was launched in Woolworths stores
in South Africa in July 2014