Research Research & &

DevelopmentDevelopment( R & D Fabrication )( R & D Fabrication )

R & D Fabrication

Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser.

Selection of Yarn.

Knitting parameters setting.

Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production).

Samples inspection according to four point system.

Testing of samples

Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing &

finishing)

Process Flow of R & D

Sample Order Decision of ParameterYarn demandGeneration

Yarn ProcurementKnittingDyeing

Finishing Quality & Testing Dispatching

Sample Order (SO)

Sample order consist of following

GSM of fabric.

Fabric Quality.

Fabric Composition.

Fabric Testing Standard.

Customer Remarks related to finishing.

Selection of Yarn

Type of yarn

Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn.

Normal Yarn

cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn.

Fancy yarn Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.

Count

Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is

equal to 840 yards)

We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1.

Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2.

For Cotton: 1 Hank = 840 yards For Wool : 1 Hank =256 yards

Yarn Count Definitions

Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m. Grex = Gram / 10,000 m. Tex = Gram / 1000 m.

English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb or Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g

Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g

Count Conversion Formulae

From metric count (Nm) to others:

Tex  = 1000 / Nm NeB  =  0.59 x Nm Den  =  9000 / Nm

From denier (den) to others:

Nm  =  9000 / den NeB  =  5315 / den Tex  =  0.111 x den

Knitting Parameters

CountStitch length

DiaGuage

Gsm

Width

Input output

Relation Between Count, GSM & SL

Count GSM,

Count GSM 20/1 200 22/1 181

It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases”

Stitch length GSM

St.Length Gsm 0.32 200 0.34 188

Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width

Dia & Gauge œ Width:

Dia Gauge # of Needles Width

30 20 1872 58“

30 24 2268 70”

34 20 2136 66”

Tightness Factor

Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any units and for practical purpose its value ranges between 1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor can be expressed as under,

Tightness Factor = √Tex / Stitch length in mm

Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3) = √ 29.52 /S.L = 5.43 /S.L T.F will be = 1.64

Different methods to check GSM

By GSM cutter: GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area).

GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100

Area of cutter: Л(r²)

Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm

Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )² =100

In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter

GSM = Wt / Area

Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then Area will be:

Area of fabric = 10 x 8 = 80 cm² or 0.008 m²

Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then

GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250

GSM = Wt / Area

Area = 1/2(base × height)

Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2

Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then GSM will be: GSM = 2/.004 = 500

Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabricCalculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition

Yarn Count Stitch Length %age

30/1 0.38 0.38/30 = 0.0127 0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60%

20/1 0.28 0.28/20 = 0.014 0.014/0.0367*100=38.147%

16/1 0.16 0.16/16 = 0.01 0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479%

Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367

KNITTING

“ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted

into loops with the help of needles ”

Types of Knitted Fabric

Single Knit Fabric

Double Knit Fabric

Types of Single Knit Fabric

Single Jersey

Single PQ Loqast

Double PQ

2.Thread Fleece

3.Thread Fleece

Types of Double Knit Fabric

Thermal

Waffle

Rib

Interlock

Mesh

Box baby terry

Vertical feed stripe jersey

Single Jersey

Tilla Fleece

Single Jersey (Embroided)

Finishing

Definition:

“It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and mechanical devices is called finishing”.

Types of Finishing

Chemical Finishing:

In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish, Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.

Mechanical Finishing

In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical

devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric

such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.

Finishing Route’s

To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow:

Stretch Dry, Compact.

Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact.

Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble.

Slit,Stretch dry, compact.

Quality Control

Quality:

“Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect free product to the customer”

To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to Four point system.

Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.

Faults Grading

Faults in CmFaults in Cm Faults in InchesFaults in Inches PointsPoints

0cm to 7.5cm0cm to 7.5cm 1 inch to 3 inch1 inch to 3 inch 11

7.5cm to 15cm7.5cm to 15cm 3 inches to 6 inches3 inches to 6 inches 22

15cm to 22.5cm15cm to 22.5cm 6 inches to 9 inches6 inches to 9 inches 33

Over 22.5cmOver 22.5cm More than “9”inches inMore than “9”inches in

Any direction.Any direction.44

Points Allowed

Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards

Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard.

3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major (Four points will be given)

How to change Kgs into Yards

For Tubular:

Yards = Weight (Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width*2

For Open Width: Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width

Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or Total yards/5

Points Allowed for Open Width: =Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5

Testing After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a

fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according to the requirement of customer.

Shrinkage test

Torquing

Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration.

Bursting Strength

Pilling Test

Flammability

Dispatching

After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is

dispatched to Apparel Division.

Presented by:

Abdul Rouf Deputy Manager Research & Development