ADAMAS

PROJECT BEYOND ACCESSORY BY DOUNIA BOURJILA S092488SEMESTER M1.1 (2012)

CONTENTS

PROCESS OVERVIEW

PHASE 1 Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

WHAT IS JEWELLERY ?1ST explorations

PHASE 2 Research through design,

2nd exploration : Finding values3rd exploration: Asking for values

PHASE 3 Defining first concept and validation

4th exploration : A diamond cutting tool

PHASE 4- conceptchoice

ADAMAS in the makingREFLECTIONS

BEYOND ACCESSORYTIMELINE

EXTRA INSPIRATION

Questions that raised:1. Can we create jewelry where we can adjust the meaning?2. Can we change the meaning of a diamond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ properties

SEEN AT SIERAAD ART FAIRWasn’t part of the exhibition but people liked the aesthetically pleasing tool.

WHAT IS JEWELLERY? INSPIRATION TOPICS IDEATIONPHASE 1Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

2ND EXPLORATIONPHASE 2Research through design

REVIEW 3RD EXPLORATION

4TH EXPLORATION

RESEARCH

6. INSPIRED ON DIAMONDS: CUTTING TOOLCombining a practical cutting tool with a jewel (inspiredon the Swiss army knife which carries a story of a century)Made two necklaces+ gave it to two friends for two weeks.Asked them to take pictures whenever they did something practical with it.

SCARSAre storytelling, a part of you .Scars fade but their stories don’t.

SKETCH

De�ning jewelleryAdornmentRelational (memento)IdentityProtectionWealth statusArtParticular contexts:Marriages/stabilityBelonging to a groupBinding culturesSymbolismQuestions to ask myself:What possibilites does this erao�er us to actualize it?

Living WABI SABI: Japanese aestheticIt is a beauty of things imperfect |impermanent | incomplete |modest and humble + unconventionalWabi = ImperfectionSabi= Beauty by age

NEW NOMADS: adding new chapterto old story of tradition. About future mobility of our society

DIAMONDS TROUGH HISTORY:their value, stories, material, usefame

NEW EXPERIENCEs OF WEARER-Feeling of jewels on your body(heavyness/cold)-Changeability, adaptiveness

CHANGING MEANINGFor example: Swatch turnedfunctional watch to fashion item

PARADIGM SHIFT/TRENDS OF FUTUREExclusivity, authencity, personalizedafter economic-crisis new energy +�nding new meanings: “WHO AM I? “Selectiveness, focus only on the things that matter

Inspired by these books:“Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and Paci�c Islands”“Mickaël Kra”- combining african + western culture(fashion)

5. INTERVIEWS: WHAT DOES JEWELRY MEAN TO YOU?Three interviews with people about their favoriteaccessories, what do they �nd important and how doesthis accessory show that?

4. PRESSURE COOKER DESIGNING JEWELRYFor di�erent relations, Looking for di�erent values + materialization of them

Me + societyShows a symbol, like in a country�ag.Is more of an accessory, used by everybodyin the same way (this creates the bonding)

Me + sistersBracelet, designed to our taste. Me and sisters like the same things in generally. Separates us fromothers. Small gemstones ‘hanging’.

Me + partnerBraided leather pieces. Wanted to show the length of our relationship by means of braiding.Therefore its a process: user braids the leather himself.“Co-creation” makes the value of the object.

CONTEXT-Daily issues, need of something sharp- carving your name in walls of toilets- leaving a message- creating a ritual

ANALYZETHE CONCEPT

+

PHASE 4final concept choice

Industrial FunctionsThermal conductivitySurface (against acids)Toughness (against scratches)Hardness (against pressure)Electrical ConductivityRefractive Index

Diamond can scratch glass the best.

Conduct bodywarmth, to connect two people

Make a closed loop when to diamonds touchDiamonds not always visible, glow only in the dark

ADAMASBased on the fact that blue diamonds can conduct electricity, the idea is to show that by using a diamond with its function in a dynamic ring that is twistable.Each ring represent a part of you, so the complete object reminds you of who you are. Inspired by the idea of being between ‘two �res’, in making decisions.

REVIEW

RESULT

CONCLUSIONS- Would people understand the underlaying vision?- Would people use it in the same way as used on the xhibition?- Is it possible with real diamonds (next prototype iteration)- It is still an expenisve ring containing diamonds-

REVIEW

PHASE 3

1ST EXPLORATIONS

REVIEW

ZOOM ON DIAMONDSNatural stone.70% is used for industrial applications and 30% as gemstones. Diamonds have a rich history, value is rised by smart marketing and a little availibility of them.Known for their sparkling e�ects and hardness.Comes in di�erent colors, some can glow in the dark.Value decided by 4 C’s : Cut, Color, Carat, Clarity.Form looks almoast perfect. Mostly synonym for wealth, expensive, war (Blooddiamond),, exclusive. Mostly used to decorate, and are placed on another material (gold).In industry used for polishing and in surgery for cutting.

first concept choice

RESEARCH

VALUES FOUND FROM EXPLORATIO NS1. Can we create jewelry where we can adjust the meaning?2. Can we change the meaning of a diamond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ propertieschange our attitude?

* Being a part of the (creating) process* Reminder of who “I” am, towards myself* Reminder of where I come from

NEW QUESTION:How does a meaning of a jewel rise?

MAKE

1. “CHANGEABLE RINGS”Gemstones can be replaced, depandant on your mood or relational status. Makes them adaptive, and people can give their own meaning to it. (MEMORABLE, MOBILITY)

2. “PLACING DIAMONDS”Diamonds are mostly placed a form in gold/silver to hold them. Can we place them inanother way? Will it change it’s look?

RESULT ANALYZE

RESULT

'Kunoichi', female ninjaDefends herself with accessory hidden in her hair. Is dynamic, works like an antenna

Other formsLike an amulet, hanging around one’s neck

'Kunoichi', female ninjaModelmaking with casting resin

3 “WEARING EXPERIENCE”Testing the experience of wearing something heavy: Changes the bodyposture. The heavy part can be a valuable gemstone or something else, give the feeling you are carrying (mobility) valuable with you. Same for the ‘wrapped up diamond’: as if you are cherishing a small thing. (MOBILITY, CARRYING VALUABLE THINGS)

CONCLUSIONS- Friends sometimes forgot they had it with them- It was practical indeed, but had imperfections. Nice that it can be used as screw and knife!

* WHAT OTHER FUNCTIONS COULD BE TRIED?* WHAT DO I DO IN MY DAILY LIFE, DO I NEED A TOOL FOR THAT?* WHAT IS THE CONTEXT?----------------------------------------------------Value of a jewel or accessory is created by the moment I gave them the necklace as present.

Therefore ”Values need to be created in the moment” -- “CREATING A RITUAL”

PROTOTYPE EXHIBITION

PRESENTATION

PROTOTYPING ITrying di�erent forms and shapes, from wood and plastic. Calculated the probability of the chance of having a 100% match, tried to work with real diamonds, which didn’t work out.

PROTOTYPING II Made a mock up to show the e�ect. Integrated the electronics in the rings on a very small scale.

PROCESSOVERVIEW

JEWELLERYRESEARCH

Defining JewelleryJewellery has a history of at least 100,000 years, but hasn’t been studied until the 50s of previous century with its miscon-ceptions. One of those misconceptions is that people generally think jewellery is not meant for men, and is only to embellish women’s appearance. Another misconcep-tion is that jewellery are mostly considered for their economic value, instead of other social values. According to arthistorist Mar-jan Unger “All human gains and pains are materialized in jewellery”. Many publica-tions don’t explain jewellery as a notion, but it seems that people take the meaning of it as something general so that a defini-tion is not needed.In the Netherlands and also Germany, French, and Italian a distinction is made in the notion ‘jewellery’: ‘sieraad’ as in object that people wear as decoration and ‘ju-weel’ for jewellery made with gemstones. The last have an economic value and have therefore always been more appreciated and taken seriously. Though wearer can give a piece a meaning or allure without changing anything about it.

SymbolismJewellery can have a social function too, representing ritual values for example by means of symbolism. The symbolism in jewellery has the longest history, together with weapons. The symbolism can be di-vided in several categories such as power, frutility, sexuality, memorial or memento. Other dimensions which are more related to this era are expression of identity, ar-tistic, relationships, protection and wealth. Jewellery are a sign of coherence in our society, which are recognized by everyone and only that way jewellery can be seen as signs of distinction. The variety in transla-tion to jewellery has been huge trough the ages. In our current society, the symbolism of jewellery is more related to expression, identity and belonging to a group. An ar-tifact could represent a whole culture and their binding for example. Or show that you belong to a particular group such as the iron ring worn by engineers in Canada. Societal symbolism is also seen often such as the pins worn by Madeleine Bush, which she conveyed messages with. The most

common value is the symbol of a marriage or relationship in the form of an engage-ment ring for example.

Fashion vs jewelleryIn fashion jewellery takes an impor-tant role in finishing a look or outfit, but does it have the same values as jewellery as mentioned in the previous paragraphs? The distinction is quite small, since fashion is dynamic and changing each season. Is a collar with gemstones of Marni as valuable as a diamond ring ( with the same price)? The question that rises is; can we de-fine new meanings and what possibili-ties or technologies are there to repre-sent this era that we currently live in?

On the right side: A Turkmen tribal headdress, worn with pride to designate status and position on important occasions (source:tribalmuse.com)

PHASE 1- Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

PastNew Nomads: New Traditional Jewel-lery is the subject of the designcom-petition organized by the Sieraad Art Fair in Amsterdam. I used this subject as inspiration in finding a direction for designing new jewellery. This com-petition focuses on old traditions and the original functions of jewellery, and placing them in our current lifestyle. The subject Nomadism is the subject of the fashion forecast of summer 2014 by Lidewij Edelkoort which I also find inspiring. Edelkoort focuses on the nomad of now and the future.The history of jewellery is as old as mankind, but had a quite differ-ent function as what we know now. People used to take their valuable belongings with them, since they were looking for the best living environ-ments. Even in these days that type of jewellery still stand for economic and social statuses according to nomadic tribes.

Many religions had also their sym-bolic jewels made from materials that were stable in value such as gold and

NEW NOMADS

gemstones which stood for a finan-cial security. Until now these kind of valuable travelling jewels have always been a guarantee to a ‘ticket home’, but unfortunately due to the current financial crisis they have become overpriced.

Future“Nomadism” stands for a lifestyle based on travelling and being mobile. It is a vision for the future from which we already can see the signs: “Now that our smart phones and pocket-books have made us wireless and have set us free we are able to work anywhere and anytime we want. As a result we no longer need a desk or an office and are able to completely reinvent our existence. Borders of work time and leisure time have faded as we decided on our own timetables and priorities. We are free to roam and wander…Under this influence we will again become nomadic and are without knowing it going back to the beginning of mankind when our species would roam and wander living from hunting

and gathering.Fashion will therefore become no-madic and go on the road for inspi-rations from all itinerant tribes and migrant movements in history; from the first pilgrims and pioneers to the most recent urban nomads, from the first adventures to the contemporary campers and from the historical mi-grants to the futuristic mind travellers.” (Lidewij Edelkoort, 2012)

This view on future trends has been an inspiration for designing a new piece of jewellery.The ancient nomads and the new nomads both have their mobility in common, but yet with different values and in different contexts. So how can this mobility be represented in a new design? And how could old traditions and new ones be both combined in harmony? What inspired me in this subject is to hold on to old traditions but still be innovating by adding a new chapter to an old story of extinct tradi-tions for example. Add a new chapter to an old extinct tradition.

On the rightSeen at the Sieraad Art Fair in Amsterdam, with the designcompetition ‘New Nomads’: An interesting design which contains sim-cards from different phones that actually contain all kinds of information about you. It is inspired on the Turkmen “Egme” (see previous chapter).

INSPIRATION

PHASE 1- Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

DIAMONDS IRESEARCH & INSPIRATION

When I think of jewellery, the first thing that pops up in my mind are diamonds, and I might not be the only one. Dia-monds are known for their economic value, their glimmering and shimmer-ing, and their symbol for wealth. Their look perfectly symmetric, they are time-less (forever), and it is the hardest mate-rial of in the world. But is that all? Where do they come from and what makes them more special than just any other rock from nature?

Tear of GodsThe first recorded history of the diamond dates back to approximately 4,000 to India, where they were first valued for their ability to refract light. In those days they were mostly used for decorative purposes and as a talisman to ward off evil or to provide protection in a battle. Diamonds were also known in ancient Greece and the Roman empire, where they believed diamonds were tears of Gods and splinters from falling start. Not only was it believed that they could bring luck and success, many wore them as charms believing their abil-ity to attract other people for example. In the middle ages their rarity, durability and beauty made diamonds popular under royalty. And today, diamonds continue to hold a deep fascination as the world’s sym-bol of wealth.

Uniqueness

Diamonds have been used throughout his-tory as a symbol to express emotions and are often given as presents. They are de-sirable because are perceived as unique, have a very old history, and are strong.

They started 3,3 billion years ago with forming in the earth due to extreme heat and pressure. In this environment carbon atoms in a diamond uniquely bond in a very strong structure. This allows them to be the hardest material in the world, the most ef-fective heath conducting material, which also expands very little when subjected to high temperatures and is resistant to most acids.

MiningThe whole diamond market and minding as we know it now begain in South Africa, the late 19th century following the discovery of the Star of South Africa Diamond (83.5 carats in size) on the banks of the Orange River (at the border of Namibia and South Africa) in 1869. A diamond rush followed and by 1888 the first working mines in the area were established. The diamond indus-try has since expanded across southern Af-rica making this the primary global location for diamond sources today.

Currently, the top seven diamond-product-ing countries, accounting for 80% of the world’s rough diamond supply are Botswa-na, Russia, South Africa, Angola, Namibia, Australia, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Diamond industryDiamonds have two main uses: they are used in jewellery because of their rariry and pretty appearance, and in the industry, due to their unique physical and molecular properties. About 30% of diamonds are of approriate gem qualitty and are used for jewellery manufacture, after being polished and cut by experts. The remaining 70% go to industrial appli-cations where they are used for cutting, drilling, grinding and polishing. Jewellery manufacturingWholesalers or manufacturers buy rela-tively small amounts of unset polished diamonds, which sell these tp jewellery de-signers or retailers. This flow and amount of diamonds been sold and bought is al-ways done in small portions, to keep the value of diamonds high. Together with good marketing, diamonds are very expen-sive nowadays.

Though this is not what cought my interest in this subject. Diamonds are interesting because there is this heavy stereotypical idea laying on them. My question is: would jewellery with diamonds still be valuable to me if diamonds didn’t have any economic value at all? And I would like to dive deep-er into other functions of diamonds, since 70% of them is invested in the industry, they must be really good.

A visit to the Amsterdam Diamond museum inspired be to answers.

The 4 C’sBecause diamonds are so valuable, it’s es-sential to have a universal grading system for comparing their quality.

Diamond grading covers numerous as-pects of each individual diamond’s quali-ties, but there are four grades which are critical to understand: cut, clarity, color, and carat weight. There are additional ratings and measurements noted on a diamond certificate, but they generally fall under the diamond’s grade in one of the Four Cs. For example, measurements listed such as “depth” and “table” are part of the descrip-tion of the diamond’s cut.

You can learn more about how diamonds are graded by reading the articles listed below.

Diamond CutCut is probably the most important quality factor, and most challenging, of the four Cs

DIAMONDS IIRESEARCH & INSPIRATION

to understand. The brilliance of a diamond depends heavily on its cut.

Diamond ClarityMost diamonds contain some inner flaws, or inclusions, that occur during the forma-tion process. The visibility, number and size of these inclusions determine what is called the clarity of a diamond. Diamonds that are clear create more brilliance, and thus are more highly prized, and priced.

Diamond ColorColorless diamonds are the most desirable since they allow the most refraction of light (sparkle). Off white diamonds absorb light, inhibiting brilliance. .

Carat WeightA carat is the unit of weight by which a diamond is measured. Because large dia-monds are found less commonly than small diamonds, the price of a diamond rises ex-ponentionaly to its size. Read this guide to get a better understanding of what a carat is and how it affects the appearance of a diamond. (thediamondbuyingguide.com)

1st exploration: Changing values of ex-perienceBeing inspired, I asked myself the next questions and decided to go through a small design iteration to find out answers: 1. Can we create jewellery with a different meaning or value?2. Can we change the perception or use of a diamond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ properties change our attitude?

Probe #1: “Changeable rings”Rings with changeable gemstones, which can be screwed off and on a ring. This ring is adaptable to ones mood or relational sta-tus for example. The changeability makes them adaptive to anyone’s idea, so people can give their own meaning to the ring. The idea is inspired on the fact that the value of jewellery consists from what people ‘name’ it.

Probe #2: “Placement of diamonds”From the trip to the Diamond Museum in Amsterdam, I found out that diamonds and their role in society haven’t change that much since they were discovered, and I was curious whether that could be changed now. For example the most common place-ment of diamonds in rings is …. It inspired me to see whether a different positioning would change the aesthetics of a jewel.

Probe #3: “The wearing experience” Being inspired by fashion decorated with gemstones and certain collars that can be

seen as jewellery but also as fashion, I was inspired to test the experience of wearing something heavy: it can change the body posture and attitude of a person. The heavy part can be a valuable gemstone or some-thing else, which gives the feeling that the person is carrying valuable with him/her. For example when placing it around the neck, it gives a ‘royal’ feeling , as if one is crowned to be somebody important. This can effect behavior. I also tried to create a different use of the same object; not as a jewel wearing it but more as a small and valuable artifact that one can carry around. The ‘wrapped up diamond’ is as if you are cherishing a small thing.

Conclusion The deeper meaning of the jewelry is still missing, for all the three probes. They are innovative in use and experience, but there is an important layer missing of why these objects will be meaningful for someone.The question that raised was: what makes jewellery special? How does this relation rise and develop itself? And what is the role of aesthetics of the object in this value that is created? I assumed that the relation between the owner and the object is created by an ex-perience or memory, which also creates re-lations between people through this object. From the moment a person possesses it until ‘now’ the value develops. It depends on how the person received it, from who, the time and place, and what occurred at

that particular moment. On the other hand, the economic value also plays an impor-tant role in appreciation.Jewellery used as adornment has a high aesthetic value, which is determining the choice of people to wear it.

1st EXPLORATIONS1ST ITERATION

1. “CHANGEABLE RINGS”Gemstones can be replaced, depandant onyour mood or relational status. Makes themadaptive, and people can give their ownmeaning to it. (MEMORABLE, MOBILITY)

GLUE

PERSPEX

DIAMOND

2. “PLACING DIAMONDS”Diamonds are mostly placed a form in gold/silver to hold them. Can we place them inanother way? Will it change it’s look?

3 “WEARING EXPERIENCE”Testing the experience of wearing something heavy: Changes the bodyposture. The heavy part can be a valuable gemstone or something else, give the feeling you are carrying (mobility) valuable with you. Same for the ‘wrapped up d iamond’: a s if you a re c herishing a small t hing. ( MOBILITY, CARRYING VALUABLE THINGS)

PHASE 1- Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

Relations in JewelleryThe first exploration missed a very im-portant thing: value and meaning of each probe. I have tried to innovate in experi-ence, use and aesthetics of jewellery, but I was missing the core part which is a deep-er layer. What kind of jewellery is meaning-ful for people? What do they find meaning-ful? How does this value rise and develop itself? Where does it come from and what can I as a designer do with it?That is why I decided to dive into this mean-ing and to find out from people what each one of them finds valuable and to decide what kind of relation between the object and people I want to use.In exploration #2 I wanted to find out how certain values can become visible in jewel-lery by doing pressure cooker design: mak-ing different designs of jewellery for differ-ent relations such as siblings, lovers, and a community.

(From up to down) I designed an accesorry for a community with a certain symbol, a bracelet for three sisters, and a braided bracelet between to lovers.

FINDING VALUES I2ND EXPLORATION PRESSURE COOKER

FINDING VALUES II

Interviews: what does jewellery mean to you?I have conducted three interviews, asking people about their most valuable jewellery. I kept the interview quite open, in the sense that people automatically would talk only about the things they think are important to tell about their jewellery.

First candidate: DAVID DASS//Industrial Design student//Portugese mom, Indian Dad// Lived in Kenya and Portugal

Left:“Both my siblings have this necklace, which we got from my mom. I have never taken it off since I got it, which was 4 years ago. I really can’t remove it, because if I do I feel I take away a part of my. It is a symbol that my mom is present even when she is not near to me.”

Right:“I got this bracelet from my dad, it’s from Pun-jab (India). Back in the old days they used to fight in wars with swords, and protect them-selves with this very big bracelets that war-riors would wear around their underarms. I wear this to symbolize the war and my an-cestors who fought for it.” “They take me back home, it’s a passage to home trough an object.”

//Protective, memorial, relationshipships\\

PHASE 2- Research through design and finding values

JULIE HORNIX//Industrial Design student//Loves her sewing machine

“I got this little sewing machine in Berlin, about 1,5 years ago. I just had bought a new sewingmachine. I love sewing, so when I saw this necklace I loved it. Though , I was doubting whether to buy it, because I nor-mally don’t wear necklaces, and this one was quite expensive ( €25,-). Somehow I knew in before hand I would wear it a lot. I think the necklace itself is very ugly, it re-minds me of a toiletflusher. And it’s silver, which doesn’t suit me. A lot of people ask me about the charm, what it means to me. Sometimes I don’t wear it, and then I keep it in my bag. I just always carry it with me. I just love textiles and making things. thats why I’m actually carrying my passion around.For me I’m the only one who possesses it in the world. Therefore I could never throw it away, I will keep it in a box. It is too precious to me. I always keep little stuff, everything has a story.This is the only necklace I wear, together with my watch. I love Singer sewingmachines because they have this classic elegant look. I love it if it shows traces of aging, like if the black paint is gone. It increases it’s preciousness. “ “I carry my passion with me”

//Personality, Passion\\

AYLIN GROENEWOUD//Industrial Design student//Surinam dad, dutch mom

Earrings“I bought them in july 2011 in Italy, when I was on vacation with my girlfriends. My friends didn’t like them at all, but I could see the beauty of them. They looked so pretty handcrafted, as if an old lady has spent a lot of time on the details. That makes a jewel more valuable for me. The funny thing was that when I wore it, my friend then saw the beauty of them. That made me feel special, a proof that I have an eye for beauty.They look very genuine, it’s not something made in massproduction. Very authentic. Somehow I feel that the person made it with much devotion, which means he or she has made it indirectly for me personally”

Ring“I made this ring in suriname at the atelier of an aquaintance who is a goldsmith. The atelier was interesting, it had two rooms, one with gold, and the other had walls decorated with maps. I created this ring to-gether with him, he asked me in steps what I liked. I liked the fact that he took time for the process, and especially that I was in-

volved. It’s really different from a ring that I buy in the stores that is already made, and meant for anyone. I am a part of the proc-ess, therefore the result is a part of me.

I would like to have another one, one represents my Surinam side, and the other my Dutch side. I wear this ring every, but first it wasn’t prac-tical. The ring was sticking to my clothes. But it was too valuable to put away (280 Surinam Dollar), that’s why I got used to it.

It is now just a part of me. What I also like is that when I remove the ring, I will see that my skin under the ring didn’t get tanned as the rest of my body, this shows that the ring is adapting to my body that it leaves a trace. I chose a green gem because of my name “Groenewoud”.

I liked how me and the craftsman grew to-gether with our ideas to a final design of the ring. “I am a part of the process, therefore the re-sult is a part of me.”

BraceletI bought these bracelets at Monki, in Rotter-dam when I was working there for a week. I was staying alone in the apartment of my cousin. It felt as if I was leading a new and different life there for a short period of time, as if I was making a new start in a new environment. I bought a new out-fit, new clothes, and these new bracelets. As if it was time for a ‘reset’.That is what these bracelets symbolize for me, one day these bracelets will have to be replaced with something else for a new start. It stands for a certain phase in my life. I chose these bracelets because I love the combination of the warm wood with cold gold/metal. I love this contrasting combi-nations, they appear very strong to me. The funny but also kind of insulting thing was that my uncle used to call them stands for a glass, while they mean a lot to me.

//1. SEE beauty 2. Parcipate in expression 3. symbolize my taste/passion \\

From previous explorations I found the next values:- Being a part of the (creating) process- Reminder of who “I” am, towards myself* - Reminder of where I come from

What I wondered is how does a meaning of a jewel rise? Therefore I would like to go towards concept to try out with the next questions:1. Can we create jewelry wherewe can adjust the meaning?2. Can we change the meaning of a dia-mond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ propertieschange our attitude?

Functional diamondI know that diamonds are known for their hardness, therefore I wanted to use the diamond as a cutting tool by combin-ing the idea of an accessory with a tool.

Combining a practical cutting tool with a jewel (inspired on the Swiss army knife which carries a story of a century)Made two necklaces+ gave it to two friends for two weeks. I ssked them to take pictures whenever they did something practical with it. I designed a functional jewelry for my friend

CUTTING TOOL1ST CONCEPT

David Dass. It is simply a golden necklace with a sharp screw on it. I gave it as a present, which implies that he will handle it with care. My goal was to see how David will use this necklace in his daily life, and IF he is going to use it at all. So I said he should take pictures whenever he used it. Result:He took it with him for 2 weeks. 1. He used it to open a screen, as a flat screwdriver.2. Something was stuck and tried to scoop with it but didn’t work. This is what he told me:- He wore it for one day, because it cuts him when it hangs around his neck “scratched on my tummy”- Carried around in his pocket- After the week he forgot he had it.- He doesnt like to wear a long necklace- The top of the screw was badly finished, it wasn’t either a screwdriver or something sharp- What he liked was to *zwaai* itaround, it was kind of meditative. And also put it up and down his fist. - People thought it was hij lucky charm

Wishes of David:

Golden necklace, with sharpened screw

- It needs to remember him like “hey you can use me”, the form needs to attract attention- he likes a retractable bracelet- or like the dynamic antenna, that you can shift open- perfectly finish it so it can be used as screwdriver and knife | check most com-monly used tools- I LOVE the fact that it could be a tool!- I did not because you told me, but be-cause it just was handy!- I even use my bracelet as bottle opener- people make tools with their accessories!

Down: Inspiration seen at Sieraad Art Fair Am-sterdam

Opening a screenSomething was stuck, trying to scoop, didn’t work.

PHASE 3- First concept choice

CUTTING TOOLDeveloping concept 1 further

I wanted continue developing this concept, into a tool that would be functional but belonging to jewellery at the same time. I was inspired by the power of mem-ory and value of scars, but found out I couldn’t develop a cutting tool to make scars which would be ethical-ly unacceptable. (left: itsmyscar.com I tried out different forms with clar and casting resin to develop the sharp point which represents a diamond. As for the context I had in mind to design this tool either for people who want to careve their names into glass in public places for example, or for self defense based on the story of Japanese female ninja who carries around sharp sticks in her hair.

ADAMASSECOND AND FINAL CONCEPT

THE CONCEPT

Diamonds are known as pretty (expensive). But the diamonds in Adamas are used for their functional ‘prettyness’: electrical conductivity. Each ring contains a real diamond and another gemstone that doesn’t conduct electricity. The challenge is to find the right position for the rings where the ‘real’ diamonds will be standing in one line, and therefore close the loop and conduct electricity.It’s hard to see on the naked eye which one is real on which one is not, therefore one should trust on intuition when deciding.In real life we also have to face difficult decisions, as the Dutch call it: ‘standing between two fires’. When do we know which decision is best? What way we won’t regret? And should we use our emotions or common sense? These thoughts can keep us busy during the day, where we always like to find ways of distraction from this thinking by doing something. Therefore, intuition is the ultimate guide.

ELECTRICITY.

DIAMONDS ARE PRETTY (EXPENSIVE) BUT THESE ARE USED FOR

THEIR FUNCTIONAL PRETTYNESS:

CONDUCTION OF

ELECTRICITY.

EACH RING CONTAINS A REAL DIAMOND AND ANOTHER GEMSTONE. ONLY BY GETTING

REAL DIAMONDS

IN ONE ROW AN ELECTRIC CURRENT WILL GO TRHOUGH THE RINGS AND

RIGHT COMBINATION

LIGHT UPTHE LAST ONE.

BUT YOU HAVE TO FIND THE

~ Ad·a·ma, αδαμας for unconquerable

ADAMASLET YOUR INTUITION DECIDE.ADAMAS

switch!

CAN’T DECIDE?LET YOUR (LIFE) CHOICES BE BASED UPON YOUR

INTUITION

ELECTRICITY.

DIAMONDS ARE PRETTY (EXPENSIVE) BUT THESE ARE USED FOR

THEIR FUNCTIONAL PRETTYNESS:

CONDUCTION OF

ELECTRICITY.

EACH RING CONTAINS A REAL DIAMOND AND ANOTHER GEMSTONE. ONLY BY GETTING

REAL DIAMONDS

IN ONE ROW AN ELECTRIC CURRENT WILL GO TRHOUGH THE RINGS AND

RIGHT COMBINATION

LIGHT UPTHE LAST ONE.

BUT YOU HAVE TO FIND THE

~ Ad·a·ma, αδαμας for unconquerable

ADAMASLET YOUR INTUITION DECIDE.ADAMAS

switch!

CAN’T DECIDE?LET YOUR (LIFE) CHOICES BE BASED UPON YOUR

INTUITION

ADAMASSECOND AND FINAL CONCEPT

“Let your intuition decide”Diamonds are known as pretty (expen-sive). But the diamonds in Adamas are used for their functional ‘prettyness’: elec-trical conductivity. Each ring contains a real diamond and another gemstone that doesn’t conduct electricity. The challenge is to find the right position for the rings where the ‘real’ diamonds will be standing in one line, and therefore close the loop and conduct electricity.It’s hard to see on the naked eye which one is real on which one is not, therefore one should trust on intuition when deciding.In real life we also have to face difficult de-cisions, as the Dutch call it: ‘standing be-tween two fires’. When do we know which decision is best? What way we won’t re-gret? And should we use our emotions or common sense? These thoughts can keep us busy during the day, where we always like to find ways of distraction from this thinking by doing something. There-fore, intuition is the ultimate guide.

Innovation in technologyDiamonds are used for their conduction of warmth generally, but they are not very fa-mous for their electrical conductivity. Nor-mally they are electrical insulators, due to the stucture of the carbon molecules. Only blue diamonds are semi-conductors, because their structures contain a bo-

ron impurity which allows them to conduct electricity. In this concept diamonds are not used as decoration, but as a switch to conduct electricity. My aim was to change the image of a diamond, and to let people know that there is more beyond the shim-mering. In this concept I combined fake (Zirkonia) and real diamonds in each row, this means that only the real diamonds can create a closed loop to turn on the LED, and if there is a fake one in between, one has to twist it until he ‘cracks the code’.

AestheticsNormally diamonds are placed in a ring to be the best visible possible. I decided to hide them in the ring, but only be visible when the ring is used. I made also different types of rings and forms. as long as they are containing two sides where the diamonds could be placed.

Innovation in meaningSometimes in our lifes we are out of bal-ance, we can’t decide. I chose 6 rings in this concept, each ring can represent a part of you. Sometimes people twist their ring around their fingers when they are nerv-ous, and based on this idea one can twist the 6 rings until he or she finds a balance and creates a row of six real diamonds.

PrototypeUnfortunately I wasn’t able to conduct ec-lectricity with real diamonds but I tried to make the effect with a battery, metal balls with are conducting contact points and a small SMD LED.The challenge was to make one loop with six different small parts, and to integrate electronics in a small object (working on a very small scale).

To decide on how many rows are needed with diamonds, I calculated the probabil-ity of the chance to get 6 real diamonds in a row (see picture).

The challenge still is whether the stere-otypical image of diamons will change, since I have used them in another way, but the ring will still be expensive be-cause of the six diamonds containing it. Another challenge is that I am still not able to create a value or a meaning for this ring that is perceived the same by everybody.

PHASE 4- final concept choice

FIND THE COMBINATION OF SIX REAL DIAMONDS IN A . WHEN A MATCH IS FOUND, THE DIAMONDS WILL CONDUCT ELECTRICITY AND GIVE THE

LAST ONE AN EXTRA GLOW.

ADAMASSECOND AND FINAL CONCEPT

PROTOTYPING

BEYOND ACCESSORYTIMELINE

EXTRA INSPIRATION

Questions that raised:1. Can we create jewelry where we can adjust the meaning?2. Can we change the meaning of a diamond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ properties

SEEN AT SIERAAD ART FAIRWasn’t part of the exhibition but people liked the aesthetically pleasing tool.

WHAT IS JEWELLERY? INSPIRATION TOPICS IDEATIONPHASE 1Defining direction, general research, first questions and ideas

2ND EXPLORATIONPHASE 2Research through design

REVIEW 3RD EXPLORATION

4TH EXPLORATION

RESEARCH

6. INSPIRED ON DIAMONDS: CUTTING TOOLCombining a practical cutting tool with a jewel (inspiredon the Swiss army knife which carries a story of a century)Made two necklaces+ gave it to two friends for two weeks.Asked them to take pictures whenever they did something practical with it.

SCARSAre storytelling, a part of you .Scars fade but their stories don’t.

SKETCH

De�ning jewelleryAdornmentRelational (memento)IdentityProtectionWealth statusArtParticular contexts:Marriages/stabilityBelonging to a groupBinding culturesSymbolismQuestions to ask myself:What possibilites does this erao�er us to actualize it?

Living WABI SABI: Japanese aestheticIt is a beauty of things imperfect |impermanent | incomplete |modest and humble + unconventionalWabi = ImperfectionSabi= Beauty by age

NEW NOMADS: adding new chapterto old story of tradition. About future mobility of our society

DIAMONDS TROUGH HISTORY:their value, stories, material, usefame

NEW EXPERIENCEs OF WEARER-Feeling of jewels on your body(heavyness/cold)-Changeability, adaptiveness

CHANGING MEANINGFor example: Swatch turnedfunctional watch to fashion item

PARADIGM SHIFT/TRENDS OF FUTUREExclusivity, authencity, personalizedafter economic-crisis new energy +�nding new meanings: “WHO AM I? “Selectiveness, focus only on the things that matter

Inspired by these books:“Ethnic jewellery from Africa, Asia and Paci�c Islands”“Mickaël Kra”- combining african + western culture(fashion)

5. INTERVIEWS: WHAT DOES JEWELRY MEAN TO YOU?Three interviews with people about their favoriteaccessories, what do they �nd important and how doesthis accessory show that?

4. PRESSURE COOKER DESIGNING JEWELRYFor di�erent relations, Looking for di�erent values + materialization of them

Me + societyShows a symbol, like in a country�ag.Is more of an accessory, used by everybodyin the same way (this creates the bonding)

Me + sistersBracelet, designed to our taste. Me and sisters like the same things in generally. Separates us fromothers. Small gemstones ‘hanging’.

Me + partnerBraided leather pieces. Wanted to show the length of our relationship by means of braiding.Therefore its a process: user braids the leather himself.“Co-creation” makes the value of the object.

CONTEXT-Daily issues, need of something sharp- carving your name in walls of toilets- leaving a message- creating a ritual

ANALYZETHE CONCEPT

+

PHASE 4final concept choice

Industrial FunctionsThermal conductivitySurface (against acids)Toughness (against scratches)Hardness (against pressure)Electrical ConductivityRefractive Index

Diamond can scratch glass the best.

Conduct bodywarmth, to connect two people

Make a closed loop when to diamonds touchDiamonds not always visible, glow only in the dark

ADAMASBased on the fact that blue diamonds can conduct electricity, the idea is to show that by using a diamond with its function in a dynamic ring that is twistable.Each ring represent a part of you, so the complete object reminds you of who you are. Inspired by the idea of being between ‘two �res’, in making decisions.

REVIEW

RESULT

CONCLUSIONS- Would people understand the underlaying vision?- Would people use it in the same way as used on the xhibition?- Is it possible with real diamonds (next prototype iteration)- It is still an expenisve ring containing diamonds-

REFLECTIONSREVIEW THE PROCESS

REVIEW

PHASE 3

1ST EXPLORATIONS

REVIEW

ZOOM ON DIAMONDSNatural stone.70% is used for industrial applications and 30% as gemstones. Diamonds have a rich history, value is rised by smart marketing and a little availibility of them.Known for their sparkling e�ects and hardness.Comes in di�erent colors, some can glow in the dark.Value decided by 4 C’s : Cut, Color, Carat, Clarity.Form looks almoast perfect. Mostly synonym for wealth, expensive, war (Blooddiamond),, exclusive. Mostly used to decorate, and are placed on another material (gold).In industry used for polishing and in surgery for cutting.

first concept choice

RESEARCH

VALUES FOUND FROM EXPLORATIO NS1. Can we create jewelry where we can adjust the meaning?2. Can we change the meaning of a diamond, and how?3. Can jewelry and it aesthetics/ propertieschange our attitude?

* Being a part of the (creating) process* Reminder of who “I” am, towards myself* Reminder of where I come from

NEW QUESTION:How does a meaning of a jewel rise?

MAKE

1. “CHANGEABLE RINGS”Gemstones can be replaced, depandant on your mood or relational status. Makes them adaptive, and people can give their own meaning to it. (MEMORABLE, MOBILITY)

2. “PLACING DIAMONDS”Diamonds are mostly placed a form in gold/silver to hold them. Can we place them inanother way? Will it change it’s look?

RESULT ANALYZE

RESULT

'Kunoichi', female ninjaDefends herself with accessory hidden in her hair. Is dynamic, works like an antenna

Other formsLike an amulet, hanging around one’s neck

'Kunoichi', female ninjaModelmaking with casting resin

3 “WEARING EXPERIENCE”Testing the experience of wearing something heavy: Changes the bodyposture. The heavy part can be a valuable gemstone or something else, give the feeling you are carrying (mobility) valuable with you. Same for the ‘wrapped up diamond’: as if you are cherishing a small thing. (MOBILITY, CARRYING VALUABLE THINGS)

CONCLUSIONS- Friends sometimes forgot they had it with them- It was practical indeed, but had imperfections. Nice that it can be used as screw and knife!

* WHAT OTHER FUNCTIONS COULD BE TRIED?* WHAT DO I DO IN MY DAILY LIFE, DO I NEED A TOOL FOR THAT?* WHAT IS THE CONTEXT?----------------------------------------------------Value of a jewel or accessory is created by the moment I gave them the necklace as present.

Therefore ”Values need to be created in the moment” -- “CREATING A RITUAL”

PROTOTYPE EXHIBITION

PRESENTATION

PROTOTYPING ITrying di�erent forms and shapes, from wood and plastic. Calculated the probability of the chance of having a 100% match, tried to work with real diamonds, which didn’t work out.

PROTOTYPING II Made a mock up to show the e�ect. Integrated the electronics in the rings on a very small scale.

BEYOND ACCESSORYDecisions and reflections

WHAT IS JEWELLERY? INSPIRATION TOPICS IDEATIONPHASE 1

2ND EXPLORATIONPHASE 2REVIEW 3RD EXPLORATION

EXTRA INSPIRATION4TH EXPLORATION

RESEARCH THE CONCEPTPHASE 4

1. Research Diamonds

5. Conclusions phase 1 to EXP 2 & 3

8. Concept to prototype

BEYOND ACCESSORYDecisions and reflections

WHAT IS JEWELLERY? INSPIRATION TOPICS IDEATIONPHASE 1

2ND EXPLORATIONPHASE 2REVIEW 3RD EXPLORATION

EXTRA INSPIRATION4TH EXPLORATION

RESEARCH THE CONCEPTPHASE 4

1. Research Diamonds

5. Conclusions phase 1 to EXP 2 & 3

8. Concept to prototype

1ST EXPLORATIONS

PHASE 3REVIEW RESEARCH

REVIEW

PROTOTYPE EXHIBITION

2. Exploration #1 3. Exploration #2 4. Exploration #3

6. Conclusions phase 2 to EXP 4

7. Conclusions phase 3 to �nal concept

8. Concept to prototype9. Prototype presentation

ALL IMPORTANT DECISIONS

The steps I have set in this project consist from smaller iteration to thinking on an ab-stract level to going back again to detail. Due to the fact that my design space was not defined enough, I tried to find the bor-ders trough explorations, analyze, making and research for example. This following overview explains the steps I have taken in my process, to what they lead and a reflec-tion on it. Below this overview is a more ab-stract reflection on the complete process.I based my design process on the next model (Product Service Design, design-driven innovation tools by ….), since I didn’t work by following a straight path in development, switching between different activities. This allowed me to re-look steps I have already taken for example.The activities according this model are: Framing – sensing – analyzing – envision-ing – making – integrating.In each step I comment on the next ques-tions:Which step is it in the process?What choice did I make?Why did I make this choice?Was it the right choice?What would I have done differently? 1. Research DiamondsPhase 1- Framing, sensing, analyzingI started with this subject from personal in-terest and curiosity, wanting to know more about the background of diamonds, and to find a designopportunity. I have done this research in three phases; sensing by

recording what kind of associations I get when thinking about diamonds, analyzing the facts on a social, scientifical, and his-torical level, and envisioning the opportuni-ties I have found (such as focusing on the functionality of diamonds) by means of a certain scenario, and finally turning this vi-sion into a prototype.I think the levels and phases in which I have tried to look at the subject diamonds, allowed me to find an interesting designop-portunity. What I would have done differently, is to collect the phases in one. As it is vis-ible now in the model of my process, the phases have been spread out through the process. I think I would have got to better results if these were collected in the early beginning of the project, which also would have allowed me to define my designspace and borders at an early stage.Because as it is now, I am missing the 4th phase which should be ‘integrating’, due to time issues.

2. Exploration #1, probe 1 “Changeable rings”After having gathered information about certain subject that interest me, and being inspired by examples, I decided to do a first exploration with the three different subjects that I found most valuable to know more about. It seemed like the most logic step, since doing even more research about jew-ellery wouldn’t give me the answer for what

to design: I had to look from another level at the subject.What triggered me were ‘changeability’, and designs or product that could be adapt-ed to ones needs, therefore I made rings with gemstones that could be screwed on and off.

This could be built further into a concept, and be developed to be more useable, but I was still missing a meaning and con-text in this probe. I took this idea with me in next steps (phase 2), to try to find out how a meaning or value can be added to/designed, and how values arise. 3. Exploration #1, probe 2 “Placing diamonds”With the second probe I tried to do some-thing else with diamonds, I wanted to change the use of diamonds in some kind of way, because (as part of my vision) I think things with a heavy stereotypical image are exactly the subjects that need more attention, by peeling off that first ‘im-age’ layer. I just didn’t know exactly yet how I would change the view on diamonds, but something that caught my interesting dur-ing my visit to the Amsterdam Diamond museum is the way diamonds are placed in rings that are made of gold or another valu-able metal. In most cases the metal is bend around the diamonds from the ‘sharp’ side; the opposite side of the table and crown. That is why I made a bracelet where the diamonds are place upside down, to see

PROCESS REFLECTIONSOF EACH STEP TAKEN

ENVISION

FRAME

SENSEINTEGRATE

ANALYZEMAKE

whether that would give another image of the bracelet.This step I made inspired me to continue later on the idea of changing the use and image of diamonds. But for the rest of the process this probe was useless, since I haven’t tried different types of jewellery for example, and my focus was only on the placement of diamonds. That is why I de-cided to drop this probe (and not turn it into a possible concept).

4. Exploration #1, probe 3 “Wearability”Another subject that caught my interest is the way people wear things, and how the temperature, weight, color, material can affect people’s attitudes. With this probe I tried to find out what kind of effect it would have on one’s body posture and attitude.Though I realized this was going more to-wards fashionable jewellery, and the rela-tion between a person and an object, but on a superficial level. That is why I decided not to continue with this probe, and this idea at all in further phases.

5. Conclusion phase 1 I found out two contexts that I wanted to explore separately and seek for design opportunities: Nomadism and diamonds. Unawarely I analyzed and sensed these subjects with the idea of finding designop-portunities, which later grew to innovating on the level of technology (diamonds) and meaning (Nomadism). In this stage I was not aware enough of what I was doing ex-actly with these subjects and what exactly they meant, but I followed my intuition. This is also visible in the first exploration: the probes I made had a potential to be at least developed a little bit further into test-ing them in the field to get better results, but all the ideas were not rich enough: they lacked context which made it difficult to base my decisions on good arguments.

I think this had to do with the start: a lack of design boundaries and maybe also theory about what kind of value I would like to cre-ate at the end (changing meaning in de-sign for example). What I would have done differently is to seek the value or develop my vision on a project before the start of a project, and then define a design space based on this. I would be more aware of the steps I take during the process, instead of afterwards.

Towards exploration #2 & #3 (phase 2)Analyzing- Envisioning- MakingThe first exploration missed a very im-portant thing: value and meaning of each probe. I have tried to innovate in experi-ence, use and aesthetics of jewellery, but I was missing the core part which is a deep-er layer. What kind of jewellery is meaning-ful for people? What do they find meaning-ful? How does this value rise and develop itself? Where does it come from and what can I as a designer do with it?That is why I decided to dive into this mean-

ing and to find out from people what each one of them finds valuable and to decide what kind of relation between the object and people I want to use.In exploration #2 I wanted to find out how certain values can become visible in jewel-lery by doing pressure cooker design: mak-ing different designs of jewellery for differ-ent relations such as siblings, lovers, and a community. This exploration could have been more en-riching if have given it more time and made it also from better materials, because I couldn’t define any conclusions from the differences between the designs. I think again more context was missing.

In exploration # 3 I have conducted three interviews, asking people about their most valuable jewellery. I kept the interview quite open, in the sense that people automati-cally would talk only about the things they think are important to tell about their jew-ellery. These interviews were very enrich-ing since I could distinguish the values of each person, how they rise, en what kind of person I have in front of me. I found out that most values or important consist from a certain experience, or a person that they relate the object to. Therefore somehow values are created spontaneously, which means I as a designer can’t design that, but I can design the ‘platform’ in where val-ues could be created.What I would have done better in this ex-ploration, is to give it more time and con-duct interviews with more and different people (ages, background, study etc), to find out more values and to so if there are commonalities between some people.

6. Conclusions phase 2 Again I wasn’t able to reach the deeper layer of these explorations to really find out how certain values are expressed in jewellery and where they come from ex-actly. Though I could distinguish relations between people, a person and a space or personal experience, and an expression of identity. I have actually found this out in my research about jewellery in phase 1, and linked it unawarely to what I found in the interviews, but I could distinguish new in-formation. I have only put in practice what I have read in theory.

Though I was triggered by the expression of identity and used that fact in a later phase to develop the concept around, however it would have been better to have found in this step why exactly people would like to express themselves. I found the answer in a later stage unfortunately.

Towards exploration #4 (phase 3)Analyzing- Sensing - envisioning – makingI had two goals: innovating on the level of meaning and of technology, therefore I de-cided to throwback to the subject diamonds to find a design opportunity. One of the general know fact is that diamonds are the

hardest material in the world, therefore I decided to work with that idea and create a new concept around it, which became us-ing diamonds as a cutting tool instead of an ornament. I tested this idea with two people by giving them two necklaces as present for two weeks they would observe their own behavior with it.-The set up of the exploration/testing in the field gives rich information, but should have been planned carefully; I asked them to fo-cus specifically on a certain aspect when using the necklace, which could have im-plied certain answers coming from them. But if I wouldn’t have said that, maybe I wouldn’t have got any good answers at all.-The quality of the probes was not that reli-able, which has also influenced their expe-rience with it. -A valuable aspect I found out is that the importance of jewellery can derive from the person you have received it from, I noticed they handles the necklaces with care, even though they didn’t look valuable at all.

7. Conclusions phase 3 to final concept (phase 4)Framing – sensing – analyzing – envision-ing – makingI had the ambition to develop this explo-ration further (towards a concept) and giving it more context , being inspired by how scars are perceived for example, or by using a diamond cutting tool to scratch into mirrors in public places. Yet there was a layer missing, I still didn’t know exactly what value or design goal this concept is based on. Is there a need coming from peo-ple to scratch their names in public places? Do people actually need a cutting tool as an accessory, and can’t they just use their keys? It seemed I based this decision on personal interest for a certain context, which is not enough for a good concept. Though I noticed in this phase that I was continuously developing the two subjects/goals (creating a new meaning and inno-vating the us of diamonds) separate from each other. Therefore I decided to combine them and develop them at the same time to create a complete concept, which I think I also do the next time.

Therefore I reviewed my complete process until now made links between everything I have done, and went through one com-plete design iteration in one day. (Framing – analyzing- sensing- envisioning- making, but no integrating yet).I was able to finally decide on a vision for the concept: the ability of people to make choices in life, based on intuition or com-mon sense. I sketched several possible ideas, forms and more, and made a deci-sion in what functionality of diamonds I would work with. I think this step was the first one in my complete process where I finally made actual choices. Though, the previous process and all the steps have taken too much time. Therefore

this step had to happen around what was called the ‘mid-term exhibition’, which it didn’t. Since I have found a more complete con-cept, I decided to throw back one time to research about diamonds now I know ex-actly what information I am looking for. Yet research on finding electrically conductive diamonds needed to go further that only ex-pert meetings and theoretical information, but unfortunately there was not enough time anymore. I decided to design a ring, since rings carry high values with them, and for my designed interaction a ring will express this interaction the best.Generally I was happy with all the choices I made for the concept, except the fact that this step was made way too late in the proc-ess, which didn’t allow me to take enough time for each step unfortunately.

I think if I had done complete design itera-tion in the early beginning, I would have defined at least a concept and made de-cisions that I can work with and develop them further.

8. Concept to prototypemaking – integratingThe ambition was to make a final prototype based on conductive blue diamonds, but I wasn’t able to find the right diamonds to work with. In my opinion that needs more research, before it can work. Therefore I decided to at least show the interaction, by making a sort of mock-up of how it should work.

The challenge was to integrate electron-ics in such a small object, and by means of trial-and-error and creativity finding ways to conduct electricity trough 6 loose parts which are continuously changing of posi-tion. I wasn’t an easy process, I started off with too many ambitions for the prototype but learned during the process to minimize them to the most important for the exhibi-tion by asking myself: what is the message I want to convey with this prototype, and what is the goal? By sticking to the answer of that question I made it easier for me to focus on the conductivity of the contact points of each ring and how they could be optimized for example. I think this step was very enriching, because I was pushed to make certain choices to make the proto-type working, and this fact finally provided me some clarity in the process I was going through.

9. Prototype presentation In my opinion the way of presenting the de-sign I made is very important in this project, therefore I took some time to think about how I would like to express the story and inspiration behind the final result.I decided to not only place the final pro-totype, but each prototype I made before the final one which shows how the ring de-veloped itself (from aesthetics to the func-tion). I was aware that I had to take people through a story that started from my sourc-es of inspiration to the questions I asked myself each step to make them understand why the final design is the way it is.

Yet what I would like to improve next time, is that my stand with poster and movie should be more ‘self-narrating’ that they were right now. It could be by a self-explan-atory movie with animations for example. Although products and the working of pro-totypes are easy to explain with animations or sketches, but what I had to cope with is a more abstract story about making choices in life which requires other more creative ways of explaining.

PROCESS REFLECTIONS

OVERALL REFLECTIONS

Changing paradigmsWhat inspires me in design are uncon-ventional ideas; ideas that make you think ‘how did he or she come up with that’. I started the project with this thought and my aim was to also end with it. The aim of this project was indeed to innovate on what jewellery traditionally means to peo-ple. I started by sensing and being inspired to find the space I wanted to move in dur-ing the process. But from there on one road I was supposed to follow became several ones parallel to each other…

In my opinion, things finally started rolling from phase 4 and further, when a clearer concept was defined. I have spent a lot of time on finding design opportunities, a vision, a need from the user, and a value to melt it together to an innovation. I wanted to try a new way of going through a design process, other that I was used to, in order to be able to look at things differently. I have worked before on a project with no clear borders which I managed quite well, and again in this one I wanted to try it in another way since I had the freedom to it.

Generally, I am not really satisfied with the result of my project and the process un-fortunately. I have been on the right track though, but I believe I could and should have delivered a far better result, and I know I can do better. I have worked very hard, and tried different things, but some-how the cause lies deeper in the process, my mind(set) and other factors around the project that didn’t allow me to do better. I have tried to find out during the process, but succeeded only until the close end of the project, and currently, while writing this reflections many things have become clearer to me.

Layers of the processPersonally I was satisfied with the vision and goal I found at the end (changing meaning of diamonds, and jewellery), and proud of how I managed to integrate tech-nology in a small object, but I was not with how I got to it. I have set different steps, tried different ways of exploring, and kept my mind open to many new inputs, which I call ‘the first layer of the process’. This first layer represents steps I set and activities I do during the process, which I had no lack of. The deeper second layer which represents setting links between activities, therefore the ‘glue’, wasn’t everywhere that present (at least not that I was very con-

scious of). This means also that the third layer, that represents on a more abstract level what a certain choice means for the complete process and end result, was also less present. With this visualization I mean that the answers why I set certain steps were there, and the richness of certain ide-as too, but somehow I was blind to them; I have not been able to recognize them at that time so that I could make the right decisions. This is ended up in choices that were half made, subjects not well enough researched, explorations with no well de-fined contexts and conclusions not based on complete iterations. However, I think many of the ideas had a good potention when worked out enough.

I realize that what I have done wrong in this process, is doing uncompleted de-sign iterations, and basing conclusions on steps that weren’t finished. But there are more factors. To be more precise, I have summed up a few points :

- I have been inspired by the values in no-madism and diamonds, but through the whole process I have treated these sub-jects separately, which lead to concepts that were either missing innovation in tech-nology or meaning. - As mentioned before, I have taken and developed many steps parallel to each other, and didn’t link them together at once. This made me notice each time that an idea didn’t work out, therefore I jumped to another one until I collected too many ide-as. What I should have done are complete design iterations, starting from framing until integrating in the end. This caused that I fi-nally found the complete concept a little bit before the end of the project, which didn’t allow me to do more research and itera-tions. I think for the result I have presented, one more iteration would have made the concept more complete. - I also started off with some kind of fixed image on jewellery, which I didn’t allow to change from the early beginning. - Extern factors that influenced the result were for example the set up and planning of the semester; I had to get used to the intensity of the modules. Also the lack of a mid-term exhibition, this used to push one to have at least one concept finish at that time, and this project I was behind during that time.

Another thing is that there was a part in the semester of 5 weeks (3 weeks SDL + 2

weeks module) in which we didn’t work on the project. I had difficulties with starting up again after that. - The start of a new phase in study with a new type of study wasn’t easy; somehow I expected that the Master Industrial Design would be the same but the expectations of course way higher. But I just didn’t know exactly how high, which caused my fear of making mistakes. I will be more elaborate on this point in the paragraph ‘personal at-titude’, because I think this is the core of the problem. ResultThe type of this project is a very open one, and normally I don’t have a problem with projects that are not pre-defined. The coaching went well, I was able to tie the knots after each meeting, but somehow also get a load of new ideas. So at the end I didn’t stay behind, but I also didn’t go for-ward.All these factors resulted in a concept with potential, but which was not developed enough and in which the idea that I aimed at, did not come completely forward: it needed another design iteration.Breaking the stereotype and changing the meaning of a ring to a person were strong as an idea/vision itself, but not with the pro-totype and presentation. I think that the idea would have come for-ward in the next step, where it is possible to show the connections in the prototype with real diamonds, with more details, and more refinement (also in the concept and meaning).

VisionHowever, in my opinion I have been in-spired again, and through this project of finding values in things that matter to peo-ple and finding what actually does and doesn’t matter to people and our society, I have developed my vision further. My vi-sion on design and on our society needed to be fed by a project like this, and despite my dissatisfaction with the process, I ap-preciate the openness and subject of this project. Though I have learned a lot from the process too, I tried something new but I haven’t worked it out well enough to be able to say that I would use this method in the future. This process and especially re-flecting on it opened my eyes to the fears, and struggles I can have sometimes in de-signing, which also limits me in my creativ-ity.

Personal attitudeI have never went through a design proc-ess they way it went in this project, but somewhere I knew something like this would be coming this semester. As men-tioned before, I started with high expecta-tions this semester, by working on the level of a Master. It wasn’t clear to me what I should change about my previous ways of working in the bachelor, and whether I could just continue the study as if it is just another semester. Therefore I set the goals high, which caused that I didn’t allow my-self to make mistakes. This aspect is ac-tually the core of everything, because it has grown into something that I have been struggling with more and more: afraid of making mistakes (and thoughts like “I am a Master student now, it is totally NOT done if I make mistakes in this or this”).This explains why I was afraid of making certain choices in an early stage, and with each problem that occurred I jumped to an-other idea to hopefully find a problem less road. It is a kind of fear of falling combined with perfectionism, which goes in a circle because it affects also my confidence in myself and my ideas.

I am fully aware of this issue, but it is quite difficult to tackle it and to make it go away at once.I really want to work on it , because this effect me and my work in a negative way. But it will take some time, because just as it has started a while ago with smaller signs which grew to bigger ones, in order to be reduced I have to work in steps.

My approachI want to approach this fear of falling by ap-proaching my way of thinking first: gener-ally I think in ways like ‘I have to do this..’, implying that the focus is more on the end result than on the process. This causes my sensing and creativity being blocked com-pletely because I am too focused on the result. I need to learn again (because that is how I used to work in the Bachelor) to think in ‘I want to learn this, or know more about..’ and focus more on the process.As for the future I know now that it is better to imply a certain design space for myself in the early beginning of a project. And also going through complete design iterations could help creating better results. As for the semester planning I hope the mid-term ex-hibition will we called back, because I think it is a very valuable event in projects!

OVERALL REFLECTIONS